I just watched a guy do a refit over 5 years and he would measure down to the half mm for cosmetics not to mention precision machining, sanding, glassing, etc for everything else. It was perfect basically. Then he sailed it like he was afraid of hurting all the work he had done. It was TOO precious. Sam is on the other end of that spectrum. I do feel there is a balance to be had here but I enjoy the different styles. All the best to you.
15 years yacht rigger here. Dude... bed that shit in clear silicone. That's all we used between dissimilar metals. Gooje the back of the plate, and dip the screws in the end of the tube. We'd go back 10 years after and pull 30 screws on a spinnaker pole track no problem.
Good to see you out working on the boat stuff. I had to skip a bunch of stuff to see how you are after surgery and it looks like you're doing really good. That makes me happy. If you ever have to pull ropes through a hole again I have a secret for that. I keep some thick wire in my truck. I have reached through cars to unlock the other door with it, fished car keys out of the ignition and out of a purse inside the car with it, opened my own windows when I have locked myself out of my house with it, and jump started a car. There isn't much you can't do with a good thick piece of wire if you twist it right. Keep a couple good pieces rolled up and stashed on your boat somewhere. You never know what you may need to improvise.
Agree with a lot of these comments on Deburring your cuts and silicone for dissimilar metals. However all of these screws seem to have no locking feature to help prevent from backing out. I would suggest loctite 262 (red for heavy duty locking) and loctite 242 (blue for others) don’t want critical screws backing out when your sailing. Also you should be torquing all off the screws to a proper torque.
Why not 3D print a super thin flexible template for each cutout on the mast and use those to prevent dissimilar metal contact and dip the screws in clear silicone before install. Not everyone has a 3D printer, that’s why they make that paste… for everyone else 😊
Sam: in a future video, can you please talk about how to prevent halyards getting snagged on the inside of the mast? Things like rivets, machine screws, etc... You have a crap ton of screws going into the mast and burred holes.
I did very similar upgrades to a 1980 mast and I treated the entire mast for corrosion, primed and painted with rustolem, 2 years later the white mast looks great.
Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) is great for isolating stainless steel screws from aluminum. It also protects bulbs from corroding in their sockets. Cheaper than Lanacote and doesn't get as stiff.
I was kinda wondering the same thing. Super sticky tape will sometimes pull them out of your hands, but the ropes....ouch, ouch, ouch ! Not to mention the wear on the ropes.
I really like these DIY videos better than the sailing videos. I get to apply a lot of what you do to my own boat and it motivates me to get off my ass get some projects done.
Sam - while the mast is down...have you considered putting a tang on the mast between the spreaders and masthead to install a removable forestay which you could run to mid foredeck. That would allow you to hoist a small staysail (on hanks). That might come in really handy when you are doing your Atlantic crossing if you get caught in a blow. Keeps the CE low and near the mast, reducing heeling moment, and makes it easier to balance the boat (typically with double reefed main).
Is this boat crossing the Atlantic? I don’t know a damn thing about sailing, but a swiss mast scares me. And not much meat holding soft aluminum threads to steel screws. I was a rigger in the entertainment industry, and we put in a minimum 5:1 up to 10:1 safety factor into everything. Overbuilt and sturdy. Love this channel.
My thoughts exactly...You are seriously weakening the structural integrity of the mast with those large holes in the sides midway between the spreaders and the bottom of the mast, where the mast is already at its weakest.
That's a pretty standard way of leading the halyards out of the mast, especially in masts that go through the deck. That pole is already pretty sturdy even for Atlantic, its the shrouds that are critical and tension of the rig. Re threaded screws in Al, it might seem weak but they NEVER fail from the treads. The problem is that after one or two years they won't come apart, usually just snaps off under the head. Rivets can always be drilled away clean.
Good video Sam. If you have to make another template at some point just trace the part onto a piece of flat plastic, maybe a non-corrugated water bottle or something. Use that same piece as a spacer between the dissimilar metals. I know it's really basic but, it's recycling, inexpensive and low tech. Use the Lanocote on the threads, I think it's going bleed when the weather gets hot. Use it on your rigging like on the threads of your turnbuckles. The name makes me think it's made of lanolin and that'll help keep the salt out. Keep making the videos, I'll keep watching.
Ugh running things up the mast. What a pain. I replaced our wood masts with aluminum masts last year and had a ridiculous time running wires. I got everything together and the sound of the wires smacking the inside of the mast drove me crazy. Spent an entire day sitting in a harness and fishing 3 zip ties around the inside of the mast, “catching” the 12v wires and securing them back outside the mast haha. Will be running pool noodle inside next time they’re down 🤦
Pool noodles are a godsend when it comes to stopping cables and lines from slapping about. I had a wire inside a bulkhead slapping away 12 inches from my ear from Halifax NS to Madeira. Finally tracked down the sources of the noise and slid a noodle over the wire. Peace at last. Pipe insulation foam is pretty much the same too.
Don't know if its intended but its very comedic when you're operating a tool in one hand and filming with an i-phone in the other. The outcome is clearly professional but in the moment its extremely funny .
i know everyone has already commented this but you really gotta round over those holes you cut int he mast. as soon as there is tension on those lines the sharp edge will cut them.
@@samholmessailing Ok, the line you drew to lay out the hole is rounded, and the hole itself has no sharp concave corners, but the transition from the outer surface of the mast to the inner surface looks sharp. The new convex corners formed by the hole are what look sharp. Maybe it isn't in real life, but it sure looks and sounds like a sharp edge to us watching the video.
i’ve never seen 3d printed material first hand. is it really sturdy enough for use on a boat, rv, etc? And it’d be really interesting to see how you are actually designing this pieces, they seem so complicated, like they’d take forever to “draw”
Sorry to give you some hints as you are a much more accomplished sailor than I but I had a CD30 a while back and the noise from the wiring running down the mast was very annoying. My CD36 has wiring run inside a PVC pipe rivetted to the inside of the mast. Might be good to do the same with the halyards too. Cheers.
Sam and others check out the best solvent for breaking free metals is Aerokroil now named Kroll Penetrant. The product tag line is "the oil that creeps". You buy it direct from their website or Amazon and pay a little more. Nothing works better than this product.
That aluminum bar doesn't look near thick enough to run a halyard for anything but a burgee. Maybe some 1"x 2.5"ish by 1/8" Aluminum rectangular tubing? Love what you do!
those dimensions Phil, will easily bend considering the way he fashioned the flat bar originally. I would suggest Square tube, w/ at least a 1/4" wall thickness.
People complaining about your 1970's glasses... while watching a channel about a boat from the 70's being refit in a shop from the 30's(?) near an old pirate den from the 1700s.
Have a look at 4:05 at the back of the plate there. Notice the smooth round lip. The halyard rides on that, holding it off the metal. But yea, I my mind as a retired yacht rigger of 15 years, he def should be wurying those edges smooth
@@tommypetraglia4688 it's true what you say about the plates and halyards riding on them but I'm meticulous and I'm worried about the rough cuts not being deburred or smoothed out with a file. Cut metal under huge loads (like a boat's mast) can start separating at the jagged areas pretty quickly.
Not worried about the screw tips hanging on the ropes inside the mast ? Im suprised you didnt choose rivits. (Btw: that was a good deal for a cinder block building, Im looking for some inexpensive property myself. Im in NW Florida , I love the weather here, but I dont want anything I cant just replace if a hurricane tears it up.)
Hello Sam, Mitchell here my wife and I have been thinking about being liver boards in Orient North Carolina now that you’ve been there for a little while, where might you recommend?
Dude...round your internal corners on the holes thru the mast. Especially since those holes are near the bottom where the moment arm is long. Stress risers like that will start to crack and aluminum fails fast.
if we redo a job, we might as well redo it properly, we completely clean the mast with phosphorisua acid, the mast head and replace worn halyards with new ones, we take a hook to catch the halyards ... !! it's easier than showing that we're wrong ... !!the pole of the pole is not even cut straight, and deburred, and clean, in France one calls that of the work of Arab ... !!
Stainless steel pop rivets. 3. And smear the end with silicone before sticking it in the pole. I rigged yachts for 15 years and some of this is frustrating. Tho Sam is such a cool guy with an easy tenacity his vids naturally draw me in.
Anytime you drill a hole in aluminum debug the hole. Anytime you cut a hole in aluminum debut the hole. Why When stress occurs on the mast stress will go to the sharp edge an begin a crack. If hole is deburred the stress will go around the edge of the hole and not cause a crack. Did you blow the shavings out of the mast Enjoy your videos very much by the way.
I just watched a guy do a refit over 5 years and he would measure down to the half mm for cosmetics not to mention precision machining, sanding, glassing, etc for everything else. It was perfect basically. Then he sailed it like he was afraid of hurting all the work he had done. It was TOO precious.
Sam is on the other end of that spectrum. I do feel there is a balance to be had here but I enjoy the different styles. All the best to you.
15 years yacht rigger here. Dude... bed that shit in clear silicone. That's all we used between dissimilar metals. Gooje the back of the plate, and dip the screws in the end of the tube. We'd go back 10 years after and pull 30 screws on a spinnaker pole track no problem.
Good to see you out working on the boat stuff. I had to skip a bunch of stuff to see how you are after surgery and it looks like you're doing really good. That makes me happy.
If you ever have to pull ropes through a hole again I have a secret for that. I keep some thick wire in my truck. I have reached through cars to unlock the other door with it, fished car keys out of the ignition and out of a purse inside the car with it, opened my own windows when I have locked myself out of my house with it, and jump started a car. There isn't much you can't do with a good thick piece of wire if you twist it right. Keep a couple good pieces rolled up and stashed on your boat somewhere. You never know what you may need to improvise.
Agree with a lot of these comments on Deburring your cuts and silicone for dissimilar metals. However all of these screws seem to have no locking feature to help prevent from backing out. I would suggest loctite 262 (red for heavy duty locking) and loctite 242 (blue for others) don’t want critical screws backing out when your sailing. Also you should be torquing all off the screws to a proper torque.
Why not 3D print a super thin flexible template for each cutout on the mast and use those to prevent dissimilar metal contact and dip the screws in clear silicone before install.
Not everyone has a 3D printer, that’s why they make that paste… for everyone else 😊
Sam: in a future video, can you please talk about how to prevent halyards getting snagged on the inside of the mast? Things like rivets, machine screws, etc... You have a crap ton of screws going into the mast and burred holes.
I did very similar upgrades to a 1980 mast and I treated the entire mast for corrosion, primed and painted with rustolem, 2 years later the white mast looks great.
Petroleum jelly (Vaseline) is great for isolating stainless steel screws from aluminum. It also protects bulbs from corroding in their sockets. Cheaper than Lanacote and doesn't get as stiff.
Sam, are you deburring your drills and cuts?
Sam is killing me .
Uh nope I’m a frayed knot
I was kinda wondering the same thing. Super sticky tape will sometimes pull them out of your hands, but the ropes....ouch, ouch, ouch ! Not to mention the wear on the ropes.
"Hopefully that doesn't come untied!" - Giant bundle of huge knots tied together.
It looked first to me that you were going to use 3D printed plates to isolate the halyard channels (steel) from the aluminum mast!
I really like these DIY videos better than the sailing videos. I get to apply a lot of what you do to my own boat and it motivates me to get off my ass get some projects done.
Deburr the holes?
What a wicked machine that 3d printer is!!!👍🤙💯👊
Appreciate you, Sam. Thanks.
Can you provide a video about how/why you got started sailing? How do you fund your adventures ... etc?
I'm a fan of lanicote, made from sheep wool extract, natural as I believe and works really well, worth every cent. IMHO
Excellent, thanks for bringing us along !
How many trips to the hardware store does it take to complete a job? Just one more.
Great job Sam, always an inspiration. Thanks for the tips .
Be safe and good luck with the refit.
🌞🍺
Use a bit of fencing wire with a hook bent on the end to fish your halyards out the mast holes is much easier
your videos are great Sam!
Dude what happened to the block work over top of your door I caught a glimpse of it when you were running the new lines crap
Great job. I bet it feels great to be working right at your own shop! I am jealous. Love the blister!
Just be careful pulling those lines through your hands, I would be afraid they would pick up some of those metal shavings. Thanks for the video.
Warm up that Lanocote a bit and it will smear like butter!
Sam - while the mast is down...have you considered putting a tang on the mast between the spreaders and masthead to install a removable forestay which you could run to mid foredeck. That would allow you to hoist a small staysail (on hanks). That might come in really handy when you are doing your Atlantic crossing if you get caught in a blow. Keeps the CE low and near the mast, reducing heeling moment, and makes it easier to balance the boat (typically with double reefed main).
pop rivits are the cats ass when you get good at them
screws are a pain, as they can end up on your deck...
cheers
Is this boat crossing the Atlantic?
I don’t know a damn thing about sailing, but a swiss mast scares me. And not much meat holding soft aluminum threads to steel screws.
I was a rigger in the entertainment industry, and we put in a minimum 5:1 up to 10:1 safety factor into everything.
Overbuilt and sturdy.
Love this channel.
My thoughts exactly...You are seriously weakening the structural integrity of the mast with those large holes in the sides midway between the spreaders and the bottom of the mast, where the mast is already at its weakest.
That's a pretty standard way of leading the halyards out of the mast, especially in masts that go through the deck. That pole is already pretty sturdy even for Atlantic, its the shrouds that are critical and tension of the rig. Re threaded screws in Al, it might seem weak but they NEVER fail from the treads. The problem is that after one or two years they won't come apart, usually just snaps off under the head. Rivets can always be drilled away clean.
@@sailawayteam
Makes sense.
Dude! You're so cool! Such a humble spirit
Def make sure you print in asa if you want it to last
Fun watching you fix, wrap that blood blister.
Hi Sam, love your motivation! The safety glasses are awesome...don’t listen to comments lol be safe not a diva 👩🎤
Good video Sam. If you have to make another template at some point just trace the part onto a piece of flat plastic, maybe a non-corrugated water bottle or something. Use that same piece as a spacer between the dissimilar metals. I know it's really basic but, it's recycling, inexpensive and low tech. Use the Lanocote on the threads, I think it's going bleed when the weather gets hot. Use it on your rigging like on the threads of your turnbuckles. The name makes me think it's made of lanolin and that'll help keep the salt out. Keep making the videos, I'll keep watching.
Ugh running things up the mast. What a pain. I replaced our wood masts with aluminum masts last year and had a ridiculous time running wires. I got everything together and the sound of the wires smacking the inside of the mast drove me crazy. Spent an entire day sitting in a harness and fishing 3 zip ties around the inside of the mast, “catching” the 12v wires and securing them back outside the mast haha. Will be running pool noodle inside next time they’re down 🤦
@Marc Shepherd a lot easier than running conduit!
Pool noodles are a godsend when it comes to stopping cables and lines from slapping about. I had a wire inside a bulkhead slapping away 12 inches from my ear from Halifax NS to Madeira. Finally tracked down the sources of the noise and slid a noodle over the wire. Peace at last. Pipe insulation foam is pretty much the same too.
Great progress Sam!
Ouch that blood blister look like it hurt 👀 things coming right along ❤👍
Having the shop is much better than doing this on the hard. Have stationary tools at your convenience which such easier for the work.
Don't know if its intended but its very comedic when you're operating a tool in one hand and filming with an i-phone in the other. The outcome is clearly professional but in the moment its extremely funny .
You should consider to polish the mast, to get rid of the milky look and to uv protect it.
Interesting! Carry on Samuel. 🙂
Keep up the good work !! Coming along great 👍
Agreed 👍
Is there a need to file down the mast cutouts to prevent frays, and also round the corners to prevent any crack from spreading?
Enjoyed the video!!!!!!!! Looking forward to more! Good Job!!!!!
i know everyone has already commented this but you really gotta round over those holes you cut int he mast. as soon as there is tension on those lines the sharp edge will cut them.
I don’t understand why?? I cut them with a 1/4” router so they already are rounded.
@@samholmessailing haha in the video it looks like they were cutting your finger while trying to fish the line out
@@samholmessailing Ok, the line you drew to lay out the hole is rounded, and the hole itself has no sharp concave corners, but the transition from the outer surface of the mast to the inner surface looks sharp. The new convex corners formed by the hole are what look sharp. Maybe it isn't in real life, but it sure looks and sounds like a sharp edge to us watching the video.
Brilliant mate!!😎👍
i’ve never seen 3d printed material first hand. is it really sturdy enough for use on a boat, rv, etc? And it’d be really interesting to see how you are actually designing this pieces, they seem so complicated, like they’d take forever to “draw”
You have got a nice setup to work on your boat. I envy you. Cheers, Richard
Use that printer to make some plastic gaskets for under the hardware.
Sorry to give you some hints as you are a much more accomplished sailor than I but I had a CD30 a while back and the noise from the wiring running down the mast was very annoying. My CD36 has wiring run inside a PVC pipe rivetted to the inside of the mast. Might be good to do the same with the halyards too. Cheers.
Sam and others check out the best solvent for breaking free metals is Aerokroil now named Kroll Penetrant.
The product tag line is "the oil that creeps".
You buy it direct from their website or Amazon and pay a little more.
Nothing works better than this product.
That aluminum bar doesn't look near thick enough to run a halyard for anything but a burgee. Maybe some 1"x 2.5"ish by 1/8" Aluminum rectangular tubing? Love what you do!
those dimensions Phil, will easily bend considering the way he fashioned the flat bar originally. I would suggest Square tube, w/ at least a 1/4" wall thickness.
Nice! I really enjoy watching your content. Keep it up👍
Well done Sam 👍👏 u prefer screws to pop rivets eh. Use that lanolin on all mated surfaces ie spinnaker pole end thingy.
So you didn't use the plastic spacers you made in the beginning of the video?
People complaining about your 1970's glasses... while watching a channel about a boat from the 70's being refit in a shop from the 30's(?) near an old pirate den from the 1700s.
Hi Sam -- what tool was that you used to cut the mast? Is it a special attachment for the Ryobi oscillating tool? (I have that already.) Thanks.
Would you not prefer allen head bolts?
I'm fretting about the lines abrading against the sharp edges of the hole cuts on the inside. Should I not fret?
Thought the EXACT same thing.
Have a look at 4:05 at the back of the plate there. Notice the smooth round lip. The halyard rides on that, holding it off the metal. But yea, I my mind as a retired yacht rigger of 15 years, he def should be wurying those edges smooth
I guess a few of us thought the same thing
@@tommypetraglia4688 Yeah, they will abrade when they go slack
@@tommypetraglia4688 it's true what you say about the plates and halyards riding on them but I'm meticulous and I'm worried about the rough cuts not being deburred or smoothed out with a file. Cut metal under huge loads (like a boat's mast) can start separating at the jagged areas pretty quickly.
Another tip; use oil when sawing or drilling metal. Your bits will never dull.
Nice for freehand!
no worries about making large holes in mast and compromising mast compression strength?
i spy pink dollar store sunglasses. love those!
Hey sam have you every tried using Boelube? super great stuff for cooling and lubing drill bits and Taps.
I'm a machinist and I've always used WD-40 for drilling / tapping Aluminum ~
@@buddydog1956 fair enough much cheaper and very effective. But the one thing I do have to say is that there is less of a mess.
Not worried about the screw tips hanging on the ropes inside the mast ?
Im suprised you didnt choose rivits.
(Btw: that was a good deal for a cinder block building, Im looking for some inexpensive property myself. Im in NW Florida , I love the weather here, but I dont want anything I cant just replace if a hurricane tears it up.)
Super video! I applauded for $10.00 👏👏👏
Hello Sam, Mitchell here my wife and I have been thinking about being liver boards in Orient North Carolina now that you’ve been there for a little while, where might you recommend?
Nice 👍
So many "experts" commenting on these videos lately.....
Do you skipper deliveries?
New episode yusssssss
I loved your pickles, Sam!
?
Awesome
Dude...round your internal corners on the holes thru the mast. Especially since those holes are near the bottom where the moment arm is long. Stress risers like that will start to crack and aluminum fails fast.
They are rounded, i made the openings with a 1/4” router
Sam, google deburring tool
Love your glasses😍
Have you ever been hit by lightning? Why not use rivets?
i dont know how crucial it is but id rather have steel thread inserts than tapping into aluminum.
Peace
Dissimilar metals are a big no no unless you like corrosion
Alway a pleasure to watch your Videos. What the sailing equivalent of "Keep On Truckin?"
Keep on Luffing...??? Lol
@@tommypetraglia4688 Excellent!
Hold Fast
Why couldn’t you use that 3D guide as a insulation between the stainless and the mast instead of that goup
That was my first thought but It needed to sit flush for the chafe protection to sit deep enough in the mast.
Are you at all worried about weakening the mast at that point?
A little bit
8:20 minion :D
maybe the ky lube you using could it be heated a bite in boiling water to make it workable lol
I don't think that piece of aluminum on the top of the mast is strong enough to serve as a spinnaker crane. If it were stainless steel, yes.
if we redo a job, we might as well redo it properly, we completely clean the mast with phosphorisua acid, the mast head and replace worn halyards with new ones, we take a hook to catch the halyards ... !! it's easier than showing that we're wrong ... !!the pole of the pole is not even cut straight, and deburred, and clean, in France one calls that of the work of Arab ... !!
Lanacoat is made from sheep sweat (lanolin) . smells like a racid sheep
I would add another two tapped screws to that wisker pole :-).
Stainless steel pop rivets. 3. And smear the end with silicone before sticking it in the pole. I rigged yachts for 15 years and some of this is frustrating. Tho Sam is such a cool guy with an easy tenacity his vids naturally draw me in.
there is nothing as permanent as a temporary job
What happened to leaving the 3D printed piece between the stainless and aluminum?
there is a chafe protection bump on the plate that needs to sit down in the hole so I needed to mount the plate against the mast.
3d printers are great for making templates, guides, spacers, brackets etc for jobs around the boat and home.
NIce
Those are the biggest glasses I’ve ever seen on a human being...
They say its healthy to chop the whisker pole once a day
No better alternative than “chop?” Sounds painful.
@@trippontwowheels chopping the morning wood
@@trippontwowheels 2 wheels movies the body but 4 wheels move the soul
Looked like the masonry job above your door failed :(
No its filmed and posted out of sequence so i can group projects that stretch multiple weeks into a single video.
@@samholmessailing Oh good! One less thing to worry about :)
Eleventh!
Anytime you drill a hole in aluminum debug the hole. Anytime you cut a hole in aluminum debut the hole. Why When stress occurs on the mast stress will go to the sharp edge an begin a crack. If hole is deburred the stress will go around the edge of the hole and not cause a crack. Did you blow the shavings out of the mast Enjoy your videos very much by the way.
This
Debur is the correct word.
Must be hard being camera man a well :)
I never use Philips heads for screws or bolts; they are a poor design.
torx is king. never ruined one in my life.
@@Luc-1991 torx is great but even Robertson or straight would be better than Philips which is absolutely the worst.
@@bryanhebden8398 agree
What about LED deck lights??
You gotta deburr those openings Sam... they'll cut your ropes won't they?
I hope you're doing good bud...
God bless you in Jesus precious name...
YES my thought exactly to deburr.
@@russwetzel1972 Little concerned with all the aluminum shavings embedded in the lines as well.
Yeah time for a little dremel action on those openings.