For 40 years every deck I've built I've used thinned roof patch to paint the top of the joists before the deck boards go on. It doesn't even have to be totally dry, sticky is good. I've seen metal flashing and various plastic tapes used but water WILL wick up under them... However, the painted on tar has no gap (and the tapes with adhesive do fail and then there's your gap) and is hidden from the sun's UV by the deck board and there are a couple of 12 x 34 decks I built in the late 90s that the joists are still sound (Deer Park Texas so coastal climate, plenty of rain and humid rot & fungus weather)
Your not going to get much support from most of us building science types using asphalt based products, there is a reason it is dead technology, I would be interested if there where an acrylic sealant, you could convince me an acrylic based roll on is superior for sure.
@@stich1960 There old creosote treated stuff still hanging around, and tar is a long proven waterproofing. You don't understand science if you believe that new science erases old knowledge. Otherwise we'd disprove gravity, Newton and Thermodynamics on the daily.
There are telephone or electricity poles that have been around for a hundred years. In some cases the wiring as well... running far past capacity than when it was built. There is some serious "Old Tech".
After 45 years of deck building the one thing I never do is wrap the skirt board up over the ends of the decking. All it will do is collect water, leaves etc and ultimately the skirt board will cup and the gap will get bigger. No matter what material you use. Always let the decking overhang the skirt and if you don't want to see the ends of the deck boards picture frame the deck. I picture frame every deck I build and have for most of my career. Gives the deck a professional look and only takes a few minutes to do.
@Tyler Hawk Gotta be nice building where things dont freeze too. I chuckled at the plastic "pads". 42" to the bottom of the concrete/cookie/post is code here. Inspector might let you slide depending on ground makeup. My 3 season porch is only down 36", but my backyard is like a gravel pit, so nothing it moving much if at all.
Agreed. Our deck was built by the previous homeowner who put the facia board up even with the deck boards. I was never a fan of that design as pine needles, leaves and seeds collected in between the boards and facia. When I replaced the deck, the rim joists we're so rotted from all the debris that sat on top. I ended up re-using the trex deck boards (they were still in great shape and saved us a lot of money), and I reengineered the deck so that the deck boards overhung the edges to allow for water run off and regent debris from collecting.
@@randydesrochers2884 - I'm sure he knows, which is why he explained that small 'deck' is just to get past inspection. I'm sure he is planning on a much larger deck in the future. But first, he has to find a sponsor for the deck and the videos he will be making from it. ;-)
Matt, I worked in a factory, here in PA, that makes treated lumber, and they said that you should cover your ends, after you cut them, as you said in the video. However, the plant manager, also told me, that you should put a clear, or whatever your choice, like a Thompson's water seal, and basically paint-like, or cover, as much of the board as possible, (obviously its better to this before you cut the wood and assemble the deck, this way you can insure complete coverage). He said, this will double the life, of the board or wood, you are using. Now, this was 20 years ago, possibly this philosophy, has changed. Perhaps, you know and can advise your audience, of this. But this was a great video, thanks.
I just built a deck this last summer with Kebony it's awesome! There are several joist tapes out there, the one single thing I'd say is; buy an acrylic based tape. Last thing I'd mention use the appropriate hardware (joist hangers and such) and fasteners, there is a reason for structural screws, versus deck screws....
My house that I bought last year had 2 external staircases to the upstairs apartment, no joist hangers anywhere. That was one of the first things I fixed. Among many other issues. But that's why I got it so cheap. Everything was DIY'd poorly.
I used Vycor Deck Protector to tape the joists and it seems to work well, is very sticky, once you put it on its hard to take it off. One thing I did notice too is that you need to wait for the treated wood to dry up some, it can have a lot of moisture when you get it, and I don't think anything will stick all that well when it has that much moisture. I also made sure to tape where the galvanized joist hangers go, to reduce the possibility of CCA reacting with the metal and causing corrosion.
I am a retired custom home builder. Built my first house in 1979, and my last in 2013. I really enjoy your videos and how you are always looking for new products and techniques. Keep up your good work.
I am in Australia so these 3 products are not as easily sourced but I am about to re-deck my back door deck which has a few rotted planks. The poly wall tape is a great idea so I'll try to find something close to give that moisture protection. Thanks for the advice.👍
Good ole concrete deck blocks are running $9 retail at the big orange box. TuffBlock runs $11 each at the same store, but you have to buy them in packs of 8 ($88). I can see using them if you want to build very, very close to the ground or you are building a temporary deck, platform, or shed. Otherwise, concrete deck blocks are cheaper and provide a higher foundation base weight for a more semi-permanent build.
Here in the north I paint the joists and do t run screws at all into them. Instead I cut halflap joints and glue them with titebond 3. Then I screw the decking in. Makes a super solid deck and I have yet to hear any complaints. In my family we've done decks like this for over 30 years and as far as I know the decking rots out before the structure does, but that's because people don't refinish them like they should (at least every few years)
Yeah, I think the tape is kind of a gimmick for DIYers. Painting or pre-sealing would also add significant life to the deck. You're gonna get probably 15 years out of ground contact lumber and just taking one extra step to slow the aging down would add 5-10 years easily. And if the decking gets replaced, you reseal and add a little more life. If we want a deck to last longer than 30 years, we'll probably use some kind of alternative to wood joists or a more advanced sub-surface, water-shedding system. My house happens to have awnings covering the decks, so they're 60 years old and going strong.
I've seen Kebony in Oslo, didn't realize it was available in the US; it looks like a nice alternative to ipe. Speaking of which, if you decide at some point to finish your deck, I recommend the inexpensive oil finishes from Armstrong-Clark. We've used it on ipe in Hawaii and cedar in California, it works surprisingly well on already-gray decks (as long as there wasn't a sealed finish there before).
Tip 1: that's interesting. In Wisconsin, I've only ever seen the deck boards rot and not the joists. Doesn't matter if boards are Cedar, GCPT, or regular PT. I like tip 2. I normally try to avoid exposed endgrain as much as possible because of how much they suck moisture. Tip 3: great idea, but that base is way too wide if you wanted to close in the deck. It looks like it sticks out further than the deck
I have had to repair enough decks I have thought about just using butyl tape on the joists. Nice to know great minds think alike. I think this was a missed opportunity to use hidden fasteners like camo. I think HD tried selling them but they just didnt catch on. Regular screws rust and strip and nails pop up. Clips and concealed screws look and work great and are not that hard to do.
Wow a project that all of your viewers can afford lol! Great content as always Matt, I'm surprised you didn't go with an composite deck like Trex or Aztec. Still waiting on your fencing video patiently . ----Marcus from North Carolina
The only glitch with those deck footers is that they are just sitting on the dirt. It might not hold up to any strong wind events like tropical storms and hurricanes that are not uncommon in Texas. Hopefully you set in a few screw type anchors (mobile home tie-downs) under the deck because that flat deck might act like a wing and want to take flight in a strong storm.
He did say it was just being put in to pass code, I'm sure his intention is to put in a more permanent deck/outdoor living area once the inside is finished and ready to move in
You can put a copper flashing on top of the post to protect the end from water. For those of us with good wood deck... try Behr Deck-Over... really awesome and a new life and look.
My Dad is a carpenter and can't seem to recommend joist tape, especially in moist areas. He claims moisture can wick up through the wood's pores and cause rot to set in under the tape. (once the wood's factory treatment wears off is when you start to worry more anyway) Heat rises and the black conducts heat and pulls moisture upwards to set in under the tape. A metal flashing to shed water would be more practical for a long-term application in his mind. Think back to exposed eaves in homes with metal flashing. (not a full flashing wrap, just on the top as a shedding mechanism) Thoughts?
Capillary action in the woods is going to keep the moisture of the wood consistent between that under the tape and that exposed. The tape isn't going to change much of anything regarding overall moisture content, but it will eliminate the primary rot location at the deck board interface.
Your dad is wrong. Joist tapes are not new, and proven to prevent rot. No offense, but your dad is just guessing, which is worthless against scientific evidence.
@@juzoli My real question was whether or not metal flashing was as effective as joist tape. I think it's a bit more logical for reasons other than skepticism in the tape product. For example, if the deck is redesigned or resurfaced, metal flashing can be removed and re installed, unlike sticky tape products. Reasonable reversibility of all engineering around a home is important when considering green-sustainablity over the multi-generational life of a home. For example, I'm not a fan of spray foam because if I ever had to replace a all the plumbing after 60 years (or add a utility i couldn't predict 100 years in the future), the carbon/environmental cost of carving out/replacing foam insulation doesn't pan out, even if you consider energy savings in that time. I'm also thinking along those lines when it comes to joist tape.
@@stephendallasdraws2929 I’ve never heard of metal flashing as joist tape. It is expensive for all joists, harder to install, and it rusts. Why would you ever remove a joist tape? If the wood is rotten behind, than it is garbage anyway.
In middle TN all decks must be anchored to the homes foundation and the soils to prevent tornado uplift so the pads would not be sufficient by themselves. Surprised that your codes don't require that as well.
can i ask what the 4x4 are supporting? As it looks (7:43) like the joists are just hanging off the house side skirt board and the end skirt board, shouldn't the 4x4's not the screws of the joist hanger skirt board be load bearing?
Perfect timing, currently prepping to make a gazebo and those bases are perfect, and kebony a perfect fit. I would like to avoid destroying the rainforest while we can, but making a deck that lasts at least a decade ideally more is important too, throwing away all that materials not great either. That seems like a beautiful solution that lasts is and is affordable to everyone.
I didn't use that particular brand but i found some adhesion issues if you apply it while it's too cold, otherwise as long as it's stuck good and then once you screw the boards down onto it, it's obviously not going anywhere. You'll find them to be butyl or asphalt based.
Those bases would be allowed here for a shed or "temporary" building, or an "unattached" deck if the AHJ allows it, but otherwise it's dig a 52" deep hole and bust out the concrete. Does not matter if the deck is 6" above grade or 6'. I put something similar under my shed a few years ago and it worked very well.
Curious as to what the permanent structure/finished product will be post inspection. I wish I watched a few more videos when I built my deck a few years ago, I definitely would have used the joist tape if I had known about it. Thanks as always for the great information.
Tuff Blocks are cool, but what secures a deck in high winds? In my area, hurricanes are a distinct threat, but do are strategy line winds up to 60 mph.
Not a fan of Yellawood. Had deck boards rot after 5 years (was not the ground contact version) - yes it was stained. I do like the Polywall tape recommendation and first I have heard of Kebony. Thanks!
But are those footers also fire resistant? What happens if you get embers that land there, as a result of a wildfire, or a fire that comprises the entire neighborhood, like we saw at Steiner Ranch or in Bastrop?
The deck will burn first, plastics are often hard to keep ignited ironically. But in the heat of a wildfire, I'd be worried about the IR energy igniting the interior finishes first...
@@rolfbjorn9937 - what we saw in Steiner Ranch and Bastrop is that typically hedges or fencing or decking or other outside flammable material got too close to the soffits or windows, causing embers to get inside the house and thus set the entire structure on fire. Those facts are well documented in the after action reports from the fire departments that were involved.
A guy I know wanted a very large ground level deck and I told my friend who was going to build it to just recommend a concrete or paver patio instead it would be less maintenance in the long run
I have built many beautiful decks , and used to use end cut solution all the time ... I realized that I would feel sick from exposure to it a day or two later ... I stopped using it ...no deck is worth that kind of risk to your health ..end cut solution is very very toxic ...
Your first tip with the tape will work on any deck with joists, not just those at ground level. I will use it on my second story deck that I am refurbishing. Thanks for the tip. Thumbs up
There are a lot of factors you need to weigh here. Is crawlspace enclosed? What coverings are on the cabin floor? Height of crawl space? Region of the country?
Spray foam isn’t a bad option open or closed cell depending on the need. Just depends on whether the cabin was meant to breathe intentionally or if it’s air right as a building envelope currently.
Tape looks good. I recommend also, at least one full coat, two is better, of copper green on all the pressure treated wood. To really go for it, create a copper green bath and soak all the pressure treated wood for twenty four hours, before using.
If I had known about Polytape, I may have replaced my very rotted deck with another better designed one. My biggest complaint with decks is the maintenance required over concrete.
Matt, your sliding door is AMAZING! I saw a previous video a few years ago where you mentioned Marvin but couldn't find the video on your home showing the sliding door. What brand is your sliding door and where did you acquire it? Keep up the great work!
Two tips from my cedar deck: 1) Pocket hole screws into deck boards from below with Kreg jig or similar. No screw perforations from above. 2) Rip a kerf 2-3 mm deep along underside of boards. Water will drip off rather than flow to joists.
@@TheHighpotinuse not at all. It's just a light scoring along the length of each board's underside so water flowing down the edges of the board has somewhere to form a drip and fall off before it gets back to the joists. You could probably get away with 1mm. I recall seeing Tom Silva do this on the underside of exterior windowsills so rain dripped off instead of flowing back to the siding of a house.
@@kebonyusa I hope you realize synthetic leather is durable nowadays. Just look at what the higher end European automakers use for their seats. In addition, I’m pretty sure Matt said he was intending to use it to meet code, not necessarily as a long term thing.
There’s nothing wrong with having or wanting a pleather jacket. My point was that people choose natural materials because they are long-lasting and authentic. Not everyone wants the look of plastic, and there’s nothing composites can do to make it feel like anything but plastic. And Matt built the deck to meet code, he didn’t choose the material to meet code.
Perhaps Austin has modified IBC rules, but Matt may have an issue with this: "According to the International Residential Code (IRC), no permit is needed if you’re building a deck that does not exceed 200 square feet in area, is not more than 30 inches above the ground at any point, is not attached to a dwelling and does not serve an exit door to a building." It appears his deck does serve an exit door to a building, however, Matt probably has a permit. Furthermore, I don't understand why a building inspector would issue a COO to a residence with a "temporary" deck. I probably am misunderstanding what is being said in the video.
Although not very large, looks like a good place for critters to live. I'd go concrete and/or pavers. More money up front, last much longer and no potential home for critters.
Ooh, and what happens when that plastic joist tape encounters embers, like we saw in Steiner Ranch and Bastrop? Because embers will get down between the boards in your decking…. Yes, I am on the FireWise Committe of our neighborhood here in Austin. And we do frequent Home Ignition Zone evaluations for our neighbors who request them. For the past few years, all external work done to our house now has to consider how it might react in a wildfire event. And no, Trex and other synthetic decking is not fire resistant. We already checked with the Austin Fire Department on that.
Have you ever tried to ignite stuff without a lighter or match that has any kind of mass or lack of airflow? Even foil faced styrofoam or unfaced takes a sustained flame. This is a deck, not unkept dry fields or forest floor full of dry kindling.
@@rolfbjorn9937 - have you seen Steiner Ranch or Bastrop? Because we do actually have first-hand real-world evidence of what happens when embers make contact with flammable materials.
@@rolfbjorn9937 - here is an example of an ember test, certified as being a realistic example of what happens during a wildfire: th-cam.com/video/IvbNOPSYyss/w-d-xo.html
Matt .. as my favorite building science nerd , you seem to miss the mark on a couple points on the construction of your deck framing and decking installation. 4x attachment is in a shear rather than bing lapped to directly support the joist , and the deck boards .. some are installed heart side up ( which encourages cupping ) rather than bark side up which sheds water like a rain jacket .
At 6:35 you pick up a board and call it "kebeny"? Not sure I spelled that correctly. Then at 6:48 you pick up another board that you called "Radiata". Two different deck boards? Explain, please.
I've got rough cut 4x4s that have been in the ground for over 20 years.burn the end grain with weed burner and coat everything below grade with 50 50 used oil and diesel mix.
Those nipples in that footing are not for holding things up. With that much weight the nipples will simply press into the wood and make dimples. What the nipples are really for is to keep things from sliding around. The nipples inside the dimples act as a lock.
As soon as you said nipples I thought of " I have nipples, Greg, could you milk me?" Please show us the shed build. I'm actually going to be redoing the shed on my property in the next month or so. I already have a concrete pad. Not sure if I should make a plywood floor on top of the concrete.
Well some high end decking like Ipe will weather to a grey color as well, but it will not rot in your lifetime. I would never allow a cedar deck to weather to grey, but if I had exotic woods that last forever, why not?
@@shavedwolf87 You can let Kebony go gray and it comes with a 25 yr warranty. It has an expected life span of 50-75 years without the need to finish it. Plus, you get to save the rainforest!
Why soak the 4x4s yourself when you could just buy UC4x lumber and not have to worry about disposing of the chemical yourself or any other dangers? I bought a pallet of them for a farm project prepandemic at $2.50 per 4x4x8. And while I've never seen those plastic things before, every big box store I've ever been in sells the same shape thing in concrete and they are only about the price of a cinder block (few bucks).
For 40 years every deck I've built I've used thinned roof patch to paint the top of the joists before the deck boards go on. It doesn't even have to be totally dry, sticky is good. I've seen metal flashing and various plastic tapes used but water WILL wick up under them... However, the painted on tar has no gap (and the tapes with adhesive do fail and then there's your gap) and is hidden from the sun's UV by the deck board and there are a couple of 12 x 34 decks I built in the late 90s that the joists are still sound (Deer Park Texas so coastal climate, plenty of rain and humid rot & fungus weather)
Your not going to get much support from most of us building science types using asphalt based products, there is a reason it is dead technology, I would be interested if there where an acrylic sealant, you could convince me an acrylic based roll on is superior for sure.
@@stich1960 There old creosote treated stuff still hanging around, and tar is a long proven waterproofing. You don't understand science if you believe that new science erases old knowledge. Otherwise we'd disprove gravity, Newton and Thermodynamics on the daily.
@@stich1960 Ugh, you're the reason things don't last anymore.
@@rolfbjorn9937 lol acrylics last much longer than asphalt based, unless you talking literal hot mop, asphalt based caulks and roofing are trash
There are telephone or electricity poles that have been around for a hundred years. In some cases the wiring as well... running far past capacity than when it was built. There is some serious "Old Tech".
After 45 years of deck building the one thing I never do is wrap the skirt board up over the ends of the decking. All it will do is collect water, leaves etc and ultimately the skirt board will cup and the gap will get bigger. No matter what material you use. Always let the decking overhang the skirt and if you don't want to see the ends of the deck boards picture frame the deck. I picture frame every deck I build and have for most of my career. Gives the deck a professional look and only takes a few minutes to do.
I agree 100%. Im in WI and details like that get torn up really easy in our weather. You can get away with more of that in different climates.
@Tyler Hawk Gotta be nice building where things dont freeze too. I chuckled at the plastic "pads". 42" to the bottom of the concrete/cookie/post is code here. Inspector might let you slide depending on ground makeup. My 3 season porch is only down 36", but my backyard is like a gravel pit, so nothing it moving much if at all.
Agreed. Our deck was built by the previous homeowner who put the facia board up even with the deck boards. I was never a fan of that design as pine needles, leaves and seeds collected in between the boards and facia. When I replaced the deck, the rim joists we're so rotted from all the debris that sat on top. I ended up re-using the trex deck boards (they were still in great shape and saved us a lot of money), and I reengineered the deck so that the deck boards overhung the edges to allow for water run off and regent debris from collecting.
You would think that Matt would know this..... Very poor deck design on this one.
@@randydesrochers2884 - I'm sure he knows, which is why he explained that small 'deck' is just to get past inspection. I'm sure he is planning on a much larger deck in the future. But first, he has to find a sponsor for the deck and the videos he will be making from it. ;-)
Matt, I worked in a factory, here in PA, that makes treated lumber, and they said that you should cover your ends, after you cut them, as you said in the video. However, the plant manager, also told me, that you should put a clear, or whatever your choice, like a Thompson's water seal, and basically paint-like, or cover, as much of the board as possible, (obviously its better to this before you cut the wood and assemble the deck, this way you can insure complete coverage). He said, this will double the life, of the board or wood, you are using. Now, this was 20 years ago, possibly this philosophy, has changed. Perhaps, you know and can advise your audience, of this. But this was a great video, thanks.
I just built a deck this last summer with Kebony it's awesome! There are several joist tapes out there, the one single thing I'd say is; buy an acrylic based tape. Last thing I'd mention use the appropriate hardware (joist hangers and such) and fasteners, there is a reason for structural screws, versus deck screws....
I agree Acrylic Adhesive Flashing Tape By G-Tape is the best that I use personally.
My house that I bought last year had 2 external staircases to the upstairs apartment, no joist hangers anywhere. That was one of the first things I fixed.
Among many other issues. But that's why I got it so cheap. Everything was DIY'd poorly.
Glad you like your Kebony deck!
I used Vycor Deck Protector to tape the joists and it seems to work well, is very sticky, once you put it on its hard to take it off. One thing I did notice too is that you need to wait for the treated wood to dry up some, it can have a lot of moisture when you get it, and I don't think anything will stick all that well when it has that much moisture. I also made sure to tape where the galvanized joist hangers go, to reduce the possibility of CCA reacting with the metal and causing corrosion.
I am a retired custom home builder. Built my first house in 1979, and my last in 2013. I really enjoy your videos and how you are always looking for new products and techniques. Keep up your good work.
I am in Australia so these 3 products are not as easily sourced but I am about to re-deck my back door deck which has a few rotted planks. The poly wall tape is a great idea so I'll try to find something close to give that moisture protection. Thanks for the advice.👍
TuffBlocks are available in Bunnings btw
Good ole concrete deck blocks are running $9 retail at the big orange box. TuffBlock runs $11 each at the same store, but you have to buy them in packs of 8 ($88). I can see using them if you want to build very, very close to the ground or you are building a temporary deck, platform, or shed. Otherwise, concrete deck blocks are cheaper and provide a higher foundation base weight for a more semi-permanent build.
Can't have a door you can fall out of but also no railing required on the deck that is the same height of fall. Nailed it building code!
also, the posts have to be ground contact rated but the wooden stairs look to not be.
Here in the north I paint the joists and do t run screws at all into them. Instead I cut halflap joints and glue them with titebond 3. Then I screw the decking in.
Makes a super solid deck and I have yet to hear any complaints. In my family we've done decks like this for over 30 years and as far as I know the decking rots out before the structure does, but that's because people don't refinish them like they should (at least every few years)
Yeah, I think the tape is kind of a gimmick for DIYers. Painting or pre-sealing would also add significant life to the deck. You're gonna get probably 15 years out of ground contact lumber and just taking one extra step to slow the aging down would add 5-10 years easily. And if the decking gets replaced, you reseal and add a little more life.
If we want a deck to last longer than 30 years, we'll probably use some kind of alternative to wood joists or a more advanced sub-surface, water-shedding system. My house happens to have awnings covering the decks, so they're 60 years old and going strong.
I've seen Kebony in Oslo, didn't realize it was available in the US; it looks like a nice alternative to ipe. Speaking of which, if you decide at some point to finish your deck, I recommend the inexpensive oil finishes from Armstrong-Clark. We've used it on ipe in Hawaii and cedar in California, it works surprisingly well on already-gray decks (as long as there wasn't a sealed finish there before).
Kebony is the best alternative to Ipe in our opinion! And we sell anywhere in the USA/Canada, even Hawaii. Thanks for the tip on finishes as well!
Tip 1: that's interesting. In Wisconsin, I've only ever seen the deck boards rot and not the joists. Doesn't matter if boards are Cedar, GCPT, or regular PT.
I like tip 2. I normally try to avoid exposed endgrain as much as possible because of how much they suck moisture.
Tip 3: great idea, but that base is way too wide if you wanted to close in the deck. It looks like it sticks out further than the deck
I have had to repair enough decks I have thought about just using butyl tape on the joists. Nice to know great minds think alike. I think this was a missed opportunity to use hidden fasteners like camo. I think HD tried selling them but they just didnt catch on. Regular screws rust and strip and nails pop up. Clips and concealed screws look and work great and are not that hard to do.
How you protect shed from flying away with wind? Why dont you use screw piles?
Wow a project that all of your viewers can afford lol! Great content as always Matt, I'm surprised you didn't go with an composite deck like Trex or Aztec. Still waiting on your fencing video patiently .
----Marcus from North Carolina
You should look up the cost of that wood. Theres 25-40$ of just joist tape on that little deck. Definitely a worthy investment if you're building one
The only glitch with those deck footers is that they are just sitting on the dirt. It might not hold up to any strong wind events like tropical storms and hurricanes that are not uncommon in Texas. Hopefully you set in a few screw type anchors (mobile home tie-downs) under the deck because that flat deck might act like a wing and want to take flight in a strong storm.
I was thinking maybe some good long stakes through the feet, and the feet screwed to the posts.
Right through that expensive European sliding door
You can stake those deck footers down with rebar pins and we don't get hurricanes in Austin just the rain. No worry about flying.
He did say it was just being put in to pass code, I'm sure his intention is to put in a more permanent deck/outdoor living area once the inside is finished and ready to move in
You can put a copper flashing on top of the post to protect the end from water. For those of us with good wood deck... try Behr Deck-Over... really awesome and a new life and look.
My Dad is a carpenter and can't seem to recommend joist tape, especially in moist areas. He claims moisture can wick up through the wood's pores and cause rot to set in under the tape. (once the wood's factory treatment wears off is when you start to worry more anyway) Heat rises and the black conducts heat and pulls moisture upwards to set in under the tape. A metal flashing to shed water would be more practical for a long-term application in his mind. Think back to exposed eaves in homes with metal flashing. (not a full flashing wrap, just on the top as a shedding mechanism) Thoughts?
Capillary action in the woods is going to keep the moisture of the wood consistent between that under the tape and that exposed. The tape isn't going to change much of anything regarding overall moisture content, but it will eliminate the primary rot location at the deck board interface.
The pores of the joists run parallel to the tape so it isn't likely to wick up to the tape.
Your dad is wrong. Joist tapes are not new, and proven to prevent rot. No offense, but your dad is just guessing, which is worthless against scientific evidence.
@@juzoli My real question was whether or not metal flashing was as effective as joist tape. I think it's a bit more logical for reasons other than skepticism in the tape product. For example, if the deck is redesigned or resurfaced, metal flashing can be removed and re installed, unlike sticky tape products.
Reasonable reversibility of all engineering around a home is important when considering green-sustainablity over the multi-generational life of a home. For example, I'm not a fan of spray foam because if I ever had to replace a all the plumbing after 60 years (or add a utility i couldn't predict 100 years in the future), the carbon/environmental cost of carving out/replacing foam insulation doesn't pan out, even if you consider energy savings in that time. I'm also thinking along those lines when it comes to joist tape.
@@stephendallasdraws2929 I’ve never heard of metal flashing as joist tape. It is expensive for all joists, harder to install, and it rusts.
Why would you ever remove a joist tape? If the wood is rotten behind, than it is garbage anyway.
In middle TN all decks must be anchored to the homes foundation and the soils to prevent tornado uplift so the pads would not be sufficient by themselves. Surprised that your codes don't require that as well.
can i ask what the 4x4 are supporting? As it looks (7:43) like the joists are just hanging off the house side skirt board and the end skirt board, shouldn't the 4x4's not the screws of the joist hanger skirt board be load bearing?
Perfect timing, currently prepping to make a gazebo and those bases are perfect, and kebony a perfect fit. I would like to avoid destroying the rainforest while we can, but making a deck that lasts at least a decade ideally more is important too, throwing away all that materials not great either. That seems like a beautiful solution that lasts is and is affordable to everyone.
1809.4 Depth and width of footings.
The minimum depth of footings below the undisturbed ground surface shall be 12 inches (305 mm).
How well does the deck tape work in cold environments? (ie: would it survive a cold winter)
I didn't use that particular brand but i found some adhesion issues if you apply it while it's too cold, otherwise as long as it's stuck good and then once you screw the boards down onto it, it's obviously not going anywhere. You'll find them to be butyl or asphalt based.
12 by 12 cement pad would definitely keep the plastic bases from sinking
I did this exact thing on a small deck last year except I used left over zip tape.
Those bases would be allowed here for a shed or "temporary" building, or an "unattached" deck if the AHJ allows it, but otherwise it's dig a 52" deep hole and bust out the concrete. Does not matter if the deck is 6" above grade or 6'. I put something similar under my shed a few years ago and it worked very well.
In Texas what is the maximum height you can have a deck before you have to anchor with concrete footings?
Curious as to what the permanent structure/finished product will be post inspection. I wish I watched a few more videos when I built my deck a few years ago, I definitely would have used the joist tape if I had known about it. Thanks as always for the great information.
Tell us about those large sliding doors. What size ? Manufacturer ? Price ?
th-cam.com/video/3Ba10bofHhA/w-d-xo.html
I didn't see the link for Kebony. Happily someone else commented with the name, so I will check it out!
Tuff Blocks are cool, but what secures a deck in high winds? In my area, hurricanes are a distinct threat, but do are strategy line winds up to 60 mph.
What is the point loading on that deck, on the side without the ledger?
What size is that door ? Make and model would be good to know also
th-cam.com/video/3Ba10bofHhA/w-d-xo.html
Fenstur Windows and Doors, made in north America too !
What’s the best method for eliminating weed growth and sitting moisture underneath the deck? I’m trying a method using EPDM Rubber.
"Oooon the Build Show!" It literally never gets old! Great videos as always, Matt
What are the advantages of that tape vs a heavy felt?
Not a fan of Yellawood. Had deck boards rot after 5 years (was not the ground contact version) - yes it was stained. I do like the Polywall tape recommendation and first I have heard of Kebony. Thanks!
But are those footers also fire resistant? What happens if you get embers that land there, as a result of a wildfire, or a fire that comprises the entire neighborhood, like we saw at Steiner Ranch or in Bastrop?
The deck will burn first, plastics are often hard to keep ignited ironically. But in the heat of a wildfire, I'd be worried about the IR energy igniting the interior finishes first...
@@rolfbjorn9937 - what we saw in Steiner Ranch and Bastrop is that typically hedges or fencing or decking or other outside flammable material got too close to the soffits or windows, causing embers to get inside the house and thus set the entire structure on fire. Those facts are well documented in the after action reports from the fire departments that were involved.
A guy I know wanted a very large ground level deck and I told my friend who was going to build it to just recommend a concrete or paver patio instead it would be less maintenance in the long run
how do you keep water run off from eroding bases and making the deck unlevel?
I have built many beautiful decks , and used to use end cut solution all the time ... I realized that I would feel sick from exposure to it a day or two later ... I stopped using it ...no deck is worth that kind of risk to your health ..end cut solution is very very toxic ...
what about burning the ends? that should stop the wood from sucking up water
@@Thyllnes Yes , Old Japanese carpenters trick .
that tape is new to me, sounds like a great idea for the next one
Your first tip with the tape will work on any deck with joists, not just those at ground level. I will use it on my second story deck that I am refurbishing. Thanks for the tip. Thumbs up
Matt what is the best way to insulate the floor of a cabin that has a crawl space under it? Thank You
There are a lot of factors you need to weigh here. Is crawlspace enclosed? What coverings are on the cabin floor? Height of crawl space? Region of the country?
Spray foam isn’t a bad option open or closed cell depending on the need. Just depends on whether the cabin was meant to breathe intentionally or if it’s air right as a building envelope currently.
Tape looks good. I recommend also, at least one full coat, two is better, of copper green on all the pressure treated wood. To really go for it, create a copper green bath and soak all the pressure treated wood for twenty four hours, before using.
We need a higher above ground deck video now!
What a fantastic video Matt 👍!
Thanks for the info Matt! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Should the green stuff be used on the 2x12 cut for stringers aswell?
Use it whenever pressure treated wood is cut or drilled.
What brand patio door is that? I have a large opening and need to replace mine
Fenstur Windows and Doors, Made in north america too ! th-cam.com/video/3Ba10bofHhA/w-d-xo.html
If I had known about Polytape, I may have replaced my very rotted deck with another better designed one. My biggest complaint with decks is the maintenance required over concrete.
Hi there is a gentleman in Show Low, AZ that makes this BUT WITH A DRIP EDGE. Specializes in corrosion with a bunch of patents
can you make a pdf with a list of hyperlinks with all your product vendors? maybe negotiate affiliate programs with them.
Matt, your sliding door is AMAZING! I saw a previous video a few years ago where you mentioned Marvin but couldn't find the video on your home showing the sliding door. What brand is your sliding door and where did you acquire it? Keep up the great work!
Fenstur Windows and Doors in Duncan BC, Canada :)
th-cam.com/video/3Ba10bofHhA/w-d-xo.html
Two tips from my cedar deck: 1) Pocket hole screws into deck boards from below with Kreg jig or similar. No screw perforations from above. 2) Rip a kerf 2-3 mm deep along underside of boards. Water will drip off rather than flow to joists.
Does the kerf make the board slightly cup?
@@TheHighpotinuse not at all. It's just a light scoring along the length of each board's underside so water flowing down the edges of the board has somewhere to form a drip and fall off before it gets back to the joists. You could probably get away with 1mm. I recall seeing Tom Silva do this on the underside of exterior windowsills so rain dripped off instead of flowing back to the siding of a house.
I think I made my kerfs about 20mm in from edges of 150mm wide boards. That's ¾" and 6" in imperialist measure.
Why not use Trex or another composite decking material? Why use wood anymore?
Why buy a leather jacket when you can get a pleather one?
@@kebonyusa I hope you realize synthetic leather is durable nowadays. Just look at what the higher end European automakers use for their seats. In addition, I’m pretty sure Matt said he was intending to use it to meet code, not necessarily as a long term thing.
There’s nothing wrong with having or wanting a pleather jacket. My point was that people choose natural materials because they are long-lasting and authentic. Not everyone wants the look of plastic, and there’s nothing composites can do to make it feel like anything but plastic. And Matt built the deck to meet code, he didn’t choose the material to meet code.
Perhaps Austin has modified IBC rules, but Matt may have an issue with this: "According to the International Residential Code (IRC), no permit is needed if you’re building a deck that does not exceed 200 square feet in area, is not more than 30 inches above the ground at any point, is not attached to a dwelling and does not serve an exit door to a building." It appears his deck does serve an exit door to a building, however, Matt probably has a permit. Furthermore, I don't understand why a building inspector would issue a COO to a residence with a "temporary" deck. I probably am misunderstanding what is being said in the video.
Although not very large, looks like a good place for critters to live. I'd go concrete and/or pavers. More money up front, last much longer and no potential home for critters.
Ooh, and what happens when that plastic joist tape encounters embers, like we saw in Steiner Ranch and Bastrop? Because embers will get down between the boards in your decking….
Yes, I am on the FireWise Committe of our neighborhood here in Austin. And we do frequent Home Ignition Zone evaluations for our neighbors who request them. For the past few years, all external work done to our house now has to consider how it might react in a wildfire event.
And no, Trex and other synthetic decking is not fire resistant. We already checked with the Austin Fire Department on that.
Have you ever tried to ignite stuff without a lighter or match that has any kind of mass or lack of airflow? Even foil faced styrofoam or unfaced takes a sustained flame. This is a deck, not unkept dry fields or forest floor full of dry kindling.
@@rolfbjorn9937 - have you seen Steiner Ranch or Bastrop? Because we do actually have first-hand real-world evidence of what happens when embers make contact with flammable materials.
@@rolfbjorn9937 - here is an example of an ember test, certified as being a realistic example of what happens during a wildfire: th-cam.com/video/IvbNOPSYyss/w-d-xo.html
what is the benefit between the plastic deck blocks vs concrete deck block?
Likely price, weight, and most importantly how much water can wick into the post
Thanks for this information because I about to my deck
That slider looks amazing!
Fenstur Lift and Slide, i have one and they are easier then they look to open ! super smooth !
I never thought of using PVC for roller's, thanks
Still can't beat the simple traditional decking method used on sea going boats.
What kind of glory is that slider in the intro? Soooo nice.
Fenstur Windows and Doors, i own one, Way nicer in person then the video too ! th-cam.com/video/3Ba10bofHhA/w-d-xo.html
Using joist tape is a given. At $8.50/linear foot plus hardware, the kebony boards are a question.
I agree. That price per ft is out of the question for most folks.
Great tips!
Matt .. as my favorite building science nerd , you seem to miss the mark on a couple points on the construction of your deck framing and decking installation. 4x attachment is in a shear rather than bing lapped to directly support the joist , and the deck boards .. some are installed heart side up ( which encourages cupping ) rather than bark side up which sheds water like a rain jacket .
At 6:35 you pick up a board and call it "kebeny"? Not sure I spelled that correctly. Then at 6:48 you pick up another board that you called "Radiata". Two different deck boards? Explain, please.
Kebony is a modified wood made out of Radiata Pine.
How you do your mailbox? 🤔
I've got rough cut 4x4s that have been in the ground for over 20 years.burn the end grain with weed burner and coat everything below grade with 50 50 used oil and diesel mix.
What about plastic lumber
I’d like to know what my boy @DrDecks thinks about these tips.
Was wondering the same thing!
He'd say G tape is better, especially in climates with wet pressure treated (rain or just moisture content).
He'd say should have used Azek and made it a circle.
@@kebonyusa Lol, I've bugged him a couple times to review Kebony
Those nipples in that footing are not for holding things up. With that much weight the nipples will simply press into the wood and make dimples. What the nipples are really for is to keep things from sliding around. The nipples inside the dimples act as a lock.
So this little deck could probably last a lifetime, but it will actually be tossed out in six months…
👌
He is going to store it for passing inspections on future builds.
@@scorpio6587 yeah?
Look forward to seeing that happen. 👊
Now show me how to keep wasp/yellow jackets/ hornets 🐝 from nesting under my deck! Drives me crazy
Don’t know about plastic in the heat and cold. Ever have a sled shatter as a kid? Plus my deck gets snow fall from the roof above unfortunately.
Egyptian style! 😁
I can tell your somewhere that doesn't snow by the no step down from the door.
Some say Matt's house is still under construction.
No skirting or rock on your house? Builder Mi
WIsh I used something like this for our shed.
real deck boards have grooves on the bottom side so it can dry and won't rot
Egyptians used PVC pipe all of the time.
right! that deck is getting helicoptered off once the inspection is over. yaint foolin anyone
yea i think this is the second time youtube has unsubscribed me from this channel.
Egyptian style! Haha!
Yeah those post buckets won't rot but the sun will turn them to powder in 10 years.
i would be so annoyed having such a small little deck like that
lucky you living in a place that has no frost
As soon as you said nipples I thought of " I have nipples, Greg, could you milk me?"
Please show us the shed build. I'm actually going to be redoing the shed on my property in the next month or so. I already have a concrete pad. Not sure if I should make a plywood floor on top of the concrete.
I am not buying it that the green stuff saturated the entire post
#1..Cover deck, #2..cover deck..#3 cover deck
Just put piles in.
I do not get people that like the look of wood when it goes gray. Why do you want something to look old, weathered, and not taken care of?
Well some high end decking like Ipe will weather to a grey color as well, but it will not rot in your lifetime. I would never allow a cedar deck to weather to grey, but if I had exotic woods that last forever, why not?
@@shavedwolf87 if that's your thing then that's your thing, but I still don't get it
@@shavedwolf87 You can let Kebony go gray and it comes with a 25 yr warranty. It has an expected life span of 50-75 years without the need to finish it. Plus, you get to save the rainforest!
Not to mention the face fasteners look like ass
I'd skip the soak and just get treated 4x4s.
Why soak the 4x4s yourself when you could just buy UC4x lumber and not have to worry about disposing of the chemical yourself or any other dangers? I bought a pallet of them for a farm project prepandemic at $2.50 per 4x4x8. And while I've never seen those plastic things before, every big box store I've ever been in sells the same shape thing in concrete and they are only about the price of a cinder block (few bucks).
I soak the timber in diesel. I love the smell of truck stops
Rats! Your tips are about 30 days too late for my new deck!
put your drill in reverse, lift the deck boards and lay down the polywall.