5 Tips for Building a Durable Deck
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2018
- amzn.to/2LAJzG2 Joist Tape in Video 3" wide
amzn.to/2PHJWCh Another Joist Tape we use often (4" wide)
amzn.to/2MT3KE9 Spacer for Rim Joist
If you framed your deck using these tips you’ll get many decades of live from that structure! Big thanks to my local deck supplier TimberTown and YellaWood for sponsoring today’s video.
www.timbertown.com
www.yellawood.com/find-a-dealer/
![อาจารย์ยอด : ลุงแว่วเล่าเรื่องผี [ผี]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Fd2Qsy4dqpM/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm definitely favoriting this video. I've seen soooo many decks that after just 4-5 years are already in need of some TLC.
Thanks for watching! Best, Matt
How to rack walls on a house
give a guy a hammer....
That's why it's Green looking!
Soaking the end of post in "end sealer" solution is new tip to me. I like it!!! Thanks for sharing.
I'm surprised he did not do such on all the lumber that is exposed to being wet. I do and never ever have any issues. The time to do it is before the wood is fastened up. Minimal cost (Relative)
Victor Eous, So I can wrap my head around this, are you saying you would put "end sealer" on the end of every board in the deck? I could see where that could be a wise suggestion.
You can also buy green treatment (a wood preservative) that does this as well. I treat all the ends, even the decking. Soaking is best; brushing requires two or three coats.
Every cut end, yes. Although I don't soak it, I just put it on with a foam brush, though the stuff I used wasn't white - it looks more like coffee. I put it on every cut - including stair stringers, blocking, joists, beams, ledgers, etc.
Yes Mark. . . . As others above have mentioned. On posts I set them in solution overnight, all other ends/cuts get a foam brush hit twice. Better safe than sorry. I really do want the customer happy and tell them of the extra steps we take in getting it right for them. As a result we've not advertised for about 20 years.
I did not know about copper in treatment and the joist tape. Learned something today. Thanks,
Thanks Joe! Always appreciate your comments buddy!
How awesome. I am literally starting my deck framing for my dream home after Labor Day. 12” OC and joist tape will definitely be on mine! Thanks, Matt!!!
I have been doing the joist tape for year using ice and water menbrane, I always get good complements from the inspectors .I like your method
Does the sunlight create any kind of damage to it?
Great job on that deck. It was a good bit of extra work but it looks like it got hammered out with ease. Appreciate the tips
Awesome video Matt. Just in time for me and an upcoming deck we'll be building. I look forward to all your videos.
I just put a 12X24 deck on the back of our house -- and it's awesome! We decided to spring for the cool powder coated aluminum balusters that bow out and look like wrought iron. They look so cool.
Great vid, Matt. Always love your advice.
Some of the nicest clean built decking I've seen 👍
I've been watching several videos related to how built a deck , and you put all of them in one great video , nice job CAMO ( from old house great school) also one guy use deck spacers for the ledger
Like the idea of the spacers. Worked homeowner claims for 30 years. Literally saw hundreds of rotted ledger board which in turn rot out the sills. Nice job.
that is one beautiful deck you have built there. I noticed that flashing was not needed due to a pool application. and the lack of a rail system. I never liked relying on the structure for support, which I have done in the past. now I always have posts two or three feet from the structure. thank you for the video.
Thanks for your show Matt and thanks for the research you do on best products and practices
Matt...beautiful project!
Matt, you should do a video comparing the different types of pressure treated material.
Great work, that deck is going to last a lifetime!
That’s a mighty fine looking deck!
Great job. Years ago I had my local aluminum guy make me caps for the top of my deck joists. 2" X 1 5/8" X 2". I held them in place with a couple of galvanized roofing nails until the deck boards were installed. 35 years later and no signs of water damage. The other idea I had was to apply an aluminum "L" shape fascia piece on the backside of the ledger board against the wall side. It provides a continuous cap and moisture protection when affixing it to the wall. I finish it with a silicone bead where the aluminum meets the wall. Again, 35 years later and the ledger board has no sign of any type of water damage.
What about breathability under deck? No issues against ledger board.
LOVE those Camo Edge Fasteners!!!
You kill me Risinger. Lol "Onnnnn! The Build Show!" Lol Great video. Thank you for the input! Would not have thought to put the spacers between the ledger and deck frame so that wood can air out. That definitely makes sense.
He's like a 12 year old when he says that and its getting really old!!
Great tips and great work with the video! Very well explained.
Great video. This will help in my upcoming project. I would also like to see a similar video but for building a dock!
Love your Deck tips!
Great building TH-cam channel that I pass on to family and friends!
Great video! Thanks for all the tips.
I found this video super interesting and helpful. Thanks
Thanks for the video.. learn something here, moisture and protecting.
Wow! Great video. Thanks Ull use yr tips
Great video. That some heavy and expensive framing. What a solid deck. I'd love to see it 100% complete.
Coming soon!
Love these tips
Marvelous video! Thanks man
GREAT episode!
On ledger boards up against a house I put galvanized flashing that tucks up under the siding and then goes over the joists like an L. Under it is self healing peel and stick window tape and a bead of roofing tar. The boards on top might eventually rot, but they seem to dry out pretty quickly and there's no damage to the ledger/house.
Thanks for the info video. I live in NC and on the process of replacing my house 2x 10 outer band and even replacing the second inner 2x10 in some area ! My deck is 12x60 ft long 🙁 they rotted from the ledger board flashing
Good info! Keep it coming! Thumbs up!
Matt,
Not trying to be Bob the builder here, but we primarily focus in roofing and decking. Mfm peel and seal is a great product that can be used to flash a ledger board. This is our go to Product. We will also cut down grace peel and stick.
This is a very good job!
I have used left over ice and water shield from roofing jobs to do the same thing as the joist tape.
Thanks great info. You verified a few things for me. 👍
Breathing protection probably good when cutting and making dust with high copper content, I've seen a lot of folks no being careful when removing antifouling bottom paint off boats on other social media feeds
Agreed but not with ledger spacing! Vinyl flashing and drip cap done right works great 👍
I think of all the decks I've f'd up over the years lol. I've never used joist tape and I work in Seattle! Yikes!!! Although rot only occurs if it dries out so since it's always rainy I might be okay
That a really nice change of pace on the insulation show
Stay tuned for a framing walk through on Friday!
As a drafter I'm taking your tips and running with it for all future projects that I do
Thanks Man, that's really a high compliment! Matt
Great video as already. For longevity on the steel beams, what about the spray foam fire retardant product used on steel buildings? It seals the beam up so no water issues. You could box frame around it with your nice PT lumber if you really don't like the spray foam look
Joist tape here in Australia is code. Great video.
I had to rebuild a section of my deck a couple weeks ago. When I saw this video pop up I was like, "Oh no, what am I going to regret that I did or didn't do"
I actually did all these things. Thank you so much for your videos.
I don't know if this knowledge was from other videos I've seen of yours or if you've just taught this guy to fish. I do know I was thinking moisture control first.
Thanks and keep them coming!
Great video. Very important info shared here. Anyone else have bad luck with camo deck screws? I love the pro jig, but have struggled with their rake tip screws.
In my opinion azek makes one of the best deck products I’ve ever seen
Those are some SOLID tips
My deck are 12" on center or less and did it in 1993. The deck is the most solid deck I ever stepped on. Standard deck feels bouncy and flexes too much. It's a pain to put in the nails for the brackets back then with a hammer... not enough room to swing your hammer. Today, just use the pneumatic palm nailer or impact screw gun if you opt for screws designed for joist hangers. Great tips on ground contact lumbers and others. Syrprised you didn't mention roofing membrane and aluminum flashing against the house for water protection.
You can never go wrong with a palm nailer
Well said and so over looked
I like how at 6:15 you said its a little bit optional talking about the tape, while showing joist hangers without the nails being driven all the way.
That deck is amaze-balls but I can not imagine how expensive it was
Is it sad that I watch this channel sooo much...that I already knew all of this?
Hey Matt! Love your content, thanks for sharing. We moved into a home in the Wimberley area and have a second floor deck with suspect framing. Do you have any recommendations for a local company that services Hill Country to inspect and reinforce a second-floor deck with a primary focus on safety and sound construction principles?
Good show
Matty, you should do video😳😜🙃🤣🤣
Love your work 🤣🤣
Good job kid
I noticed the use of the Camo screws. Do you recommend this as a hidden fastener installation? I've used them on a couple of projects, and I'm happy with the look.
Hello Matt.
I'm watching this lovely video over and over and I'm wondering what is the space between the concrete to the deck posts? 10feet 12 feet?
What your opinion about it? What will be the maximum space you're recommend? You know. .with 2×8 for stacking of course. .
Thanks
great quality.
Great thank you 🙏🏽
Dude, you were awesome in Hi-de-hi! And you developed an American accent... and moved to America... and got younger.
I frame my decks differently but I like that you're oversizing and underspacing the joists. I also like that you're using ground contact lumber. Rated and unrated has been on shelves for years and nobody knew it. This may be changing since this video was produced. Nice hustle man. And, get 10 deck builders in a room and you'll get 15-ways to build a deck, some claiming joist tape is necessary and others not. Probably a number of variables go into this. Where I build, I add it to any deck I resurface.
Matt, I am building a second floor deck and want dry space underneath without doing a under deck solution. Do you have a video for insulation. Thanx
Would have loved to see that space under the deck made usable. Imagine a sloped pavement, LED lighting from the stone to deck joint seam, a couple of beanbags, a small spiral stair on the side of the deck from above to down below, and a bottle of wine overlooking that view.
But at the very least, make it look attractive from the water.
Nice episode. I'm seeing a lot more metal deck frames. Much quicker, straighter.
Would some of these tips work with making a patio cover? I want to lay down concrete and those lifted mounts on those concrete post make me rethink my layout.
I hope you address stringer split. Every deck stair I see have the stringers split where to treads are screwed on typically splitting down to the riser portion. I suppose you could use end grain sealer on both cuts as well as joist tape under the tread. Anything else to keep the stringers/treads solid?
Question, When using 12" on center spacing do your carpenters use a track saw to make sure the joist don't have to high of crowns causing uneven floor decking.
Since you mentioned fence posts, what is your recommended installation method there to extend life?
Very cool and strong. Will make a great helipad for evacuating someone after they fall off the edge.
Matt, When i google on iron deck post i can’t seem to find them? where can i order the iron deck posts? And did you ever use helical piles? Thank you! You’re channel is awesome👊🏻 🙂
I have personally built decks going on 25 years now, no issues, except for wood decking and railing spindles warpage. Framing, for the most part, is all good. Never used joist tape, or spaced boxes, and sunk all my 4x4's. There is nothing wrong with what you are doing, it's just you have to also give the other side of the coin too. 25 years, and counting, is pretty damn good. Always put ice and water behind my boxes and tamped gravel in the hole, before concrete.
climate is important i think. where im from with snow the posts wouldnt last in the ground any longer than my 2nd marriage
Nice, clean workmanship. But did you use deck hold downs, or a deck tension device? Or do the steel post columns mitigate the possibility of the deck pulling away from the structure?
I’d love to see some fence tips. How would you set posts if not the standard hole with concrete? I’m debating between doing a fairly large fence by myself or paying for some of the work.
See my reply just above your comment on Robert Stark for some information
Hey Matt I'm in the south getting my clay tile roof redone, do I have any options for ventilating the attic? It would either be mb a whirlybird in the time or a vent on the north wall. The other 3 walls are brick and there's no soffits.
Thanks for the helpful video! It is my understanding that stainless steel washers on galvanised bolts will cause some pretty nasty galvanic corrosion, and rust stains. Why not just use galvanised washers?
I live in upstate RAIN DOOM AND GLOOM New York, and I built a pressure treated 12x20 deck with 4x4's planted into the ground at the frost line (almost 3 feet deep) with 2x8 pressure treated joists 1 foot off the ground with pres treated 1x6x12 deck boards and they were NAILED with twist nails treated 2" and guess what? 34 years later, outside of normal fading to gray.....the deck looks like the day it was built. Not one board had to be replaced, no sagging, had enormously huge phat.....aunts and uncles all over it over the years, no "edge taping sealing", not extra treating over the years of the deck boards, no railings warping or getting loose, stairs look the day they went in. Nothing. Plain, old fashioned carpentry. OH, and 16" on center joists. No special "Yellawood" sold here or back then. Just...whatever Lowes was selling. Go figure.
chivone21 that’s how I build shit these guys building decks like this now days are paying way to much money for materials no one can afford this shit for high end inspections
The pressure treated wood you used 34 years ago is not the same that we use now. It was better back then. In 2004 the EPA banned the chemicals used to treat the old wood which is why these newer decks rot faster. Also, Yellawood is not some new company - they have been in the pressure treated business since the 70's.
Another tip is to not have any horizontal boards at the bottom of the railing. My deck has them and they prevent leaves and twigs from being swept or blown off and instead they collect right up against them and cause a lot of rot. I just had to replace a lot of the deck boards because of this
Matt, we are going to be building a deck similar to this (walkout, 9ft high) and opted for a free standing vs attached. Do you have any thoughts on this?
Id love to work for this dude
Have done a video on building decks using pedestal systems like Eurotech or Bison?
Great deck tips, but is there a security fence for the deck?
Kooshy job. Bet the carpenters are digging it
Hey +Matt Risinger quick question... What tape would you advise? I used Grace Vycor in a section of my deck 2 years ago and wasn't impressed with the sticking ability. I was at Lowes the other day and ran into the normal Zip Flashing Tape that it's used to tape the Zip board seams and that thing seemed to be sticky as hell. As you would say "tenaciously sticky" ... I was wondering if one could use that? it seemed to be a good alternative and actually cheaper.
I’ve actually used roofing tar on my post and painted on heavily and then let it set up on it so that it’s almost dry then I put it in the hole And poured concrete around it and made sure that the concrete was below the top of the roof and Tara my posts and that’s given me over 20 years of life already counting what are your thoughts on that if you ever seen it?
Easy to tips and tricks etc etc That’s a great tip. I always do that to. Submerged posts have WAY less flex than than using those post stirrups
Hey Matt, great video! Any advice for someone using concrete deck blocks for a ground level deck. Prevent the wood from touching the blocks as well?
Yes. Same with concrete blocks. Keep the wood dry
How long have they been making this copper impregnated Wood? And I’m assuming this is safer and less harmful than the green board?
I just joined your community I’m new here I have a how to channel with a variety...
Tell me how it is a galvanized nails interact with the copper? Or screws for that matter do you know?
Look forward to hearing from you keep up the great work this is good information and something I haven’t heard it from till now bye for now God bless Ken.
When attaching a ledger to a house, if you use flashing over it should you still use a spacer?
Matt, I have important questions for you that are on my mind. Firstly, thanks for the tutorial
You provided a couple great tips which I hadn't known about. As the son of a mechanical engineer and myself a micro-mechanical engineer (virtually the same principles) I'd always been a builder and would just for educational purposes and fun would often bat the ball back and forth with my dad about all kinds of builds.
However, again I have a question for you, a specialist in the field and not some know-it-all weekend warriors, whom I'm sure will feel compelled to weigh in on nonetheless.
My question for you Matt, and for Matt alone, revolves around that I have never believed in the wisdom of tying in a deck into the inner beams of a house where you can't see the nature of how they're holding up over the many years lifetime of a properly, well built tie-in deck. Where I live there are indigenous aggressive termites well known about by the home builders before they built but not by me since I came from another town. However, here you put the deck tie-ins into the admittedly robust walls of a swimming pool on a hill. Beside what little that we could see of the exterior of the bolts what type of terminal ends were anchored into the side of the swimming pool walls, was the bolting system made of a non-rusting material, how deep did they go in and what do you think of the wisdom of putting stress concentrating points in a vital pool wall which previously was uniform (as much as it can be) in a swimming pool where each gallon of water weighs about 8 pounds. The weight of the water and the pull on the wall of the deck represent quite a bit of potential energy. If the deck should be used for purposes unplanned for, eg. too many people crowding on it, their jumping up and down such as at a fourth of July display (yes, I've seen this filmed and the deck collapsing) and or the owners (or next owners if sold) deciding to build on it, eg. a stone hearth or cooking grill, etc.will all the tie-ins embedded hold up against that degree of extra pull and especially not combine with the weight of the water at new stress concentrating points? Beside the loss of aesthetics, would you not do better by adding vertical 6x6 inch supports next to the pool and possibly adding some under deck cross bracing between 6x6's proximal to one another? If you don't have time to answer all these questions, I'd very much appreciate knowing the mechanics of the bolt tie-ins to the pool wall and if they're not merely galvanized but rust proof. Also, how would you calculate the number of tie-in bolts needed?
I'd greatly appreciate it if you could shine some light on the parts of the build which you didn't cover in your otherwise very good presentation. Thanks!
Most of the weight would be down wards , so it's more a question of sheer strength of the fasteners. Wall looks pretty thick, and would have re-bar/ trimmer bars.
🤦🏻♂️ 😆
1) Ground contact PT 2) Ledger board spacer 3) Concrete pier above grave w/ metal post base 4) Joist tape though optional for dry climates 5) Joist spacing 12"
Beautiful deck and I love the view from it, but isn't there any code regulation for a safety railing, due to the height of the deck above the ground?
I’m sure they are gonna add railing next, that is way to high not to.
Code says you have to add railing to any deck that stands more than 30 inches high. Railing is done last, so I am sure they did it but just didn't show it on the video.
Replacing my rotted siding and ledger board now. The idiot that built the deck nailed the ledger board to the house and never flashed or anything. These are all great tips that I plan to follow. Especially the Deck to Wall 5/8” ledger spacers.
spacers is a grat idea
man what a view... A dream job :)
Reminder to self: "When cutting lumber 'always' use eye protection gear." Likewise for fall protection. Thank you for the inspiration to be safe.
I am going to hang LUS46 hangers off my fascia board, do I:
1) Apply deck tape sandwiched between the fascia and the backside of the hanger? (will be using SDS screws)
or
2) Wrap the 4x6 beam in deck tape prior to setting it directly inside the hanger?
In nz we would use stainless steel everywhere for that deck it close to ocean and will get wet from pool water with its chemicals.. really like the joist tape would a dpc plastic stapled on do the same? Thinkn cost 👍 nice tips cheers
Yeah I'm building a deck right now in Dunedin, NZ. Was thinking to use DPC plastic on the joists, its a bit foreign for builders here to do that on a deck. Maybe our weather isn't rainy/consistenly damp enough to warrant it. Only difference I can see between DPC plastic and the decking/flashing tape is that if you make a penetration (i.e. nail/screw) the tape will seal up against the screw, whereas the DPC might just split a bit and let water sit between the joist and bottom of DPC... Where are you building in NZ?
Others have pointed out that he should have used SS because of pool chemicals, but rest assured...Matt's working in the Austin, TX area. That "ocean" is Lake Travis. Not salt water. :)
If using the dry decking material for a under the deck dry install how do you keep the water from getting behind the ledger board?
Actually, I can think of one reason why it might not necessarily be a good idea to use the more heavily copper impregnated, ground- contact lumber for all parts of a deck. I suspect that the ground-contact Lumber , with more than double the copper content, might be more corrosive and likely to interact with the Fasteners used. It might be best to use stainless fasteners everywhere if the entire deck is built of ground- contact rated, pressure-treated lumber. I foresee a problem with that approach as well, which is that your Simpson Strong-Tie joist hangers and other similar joist hangers for building decks are made of galvanized steel, so now you've got stainless Fasteners being used on galvanized steel joist hangers with heavily copper impregnated decking. Especially in a damp climate, this could be quite a recipe for hastening galvanic corrosion and leading to eventual structural weakening.