5 Tips for Building a Durable Deck
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 ก.พ. 2025
- amzn.to/2LAJzG2 Joist Tape in Video 3" wide
amzn.to/2PHJWCh Another Joist Tape we use often (4" wide)
amzn.to/2MT3KE9 Spacer for Rim Joist
If you framed your deck using these tips you’ll get many decades of live from that structure! Big thanks to my local deck supplier TimberTown and YellaWood for sponsoring today’s video.
www.timbertown...
www.yellawood.c...
I'm definitely favoriting this video. I've seen soooo many decks that after just 4-5 years are already in need of some TLC.
Thanks for watching! Best, Matt
How to rack walls on a house
give a guy a hammer....
That's why it's Green looking!
Soaking the end of post in "end sealer" solution is new tip to me. I like it!!! Thanks for sharing.
I'm surprised he did not do such on all the lumber that is exposed to being wet. I do and never ever have any issues. The time to do it is before the wood is fastened up. Minimal cost (Relative)
Victor Eous, So I can wrap my head around this, are you saying you would put "end sealer" on the end of every board in the deck? I could see where that could be a wise suggestion.
You can also buy green treatment (a wood preservative) that does this as well. I treat all the ends, even the decking. Soaking is best; brushing requires two or three coats.
Every cut end, yes. Although I don't soak it, I just put it on with a foam brush, though the stuff I used wasn't white - it looks more like coffee. I put it on every cut - including stair stringers, blocking, joists, beams, ledgers, etc.
Yes Mark. . . . As others above have mentioned. On posts I set them in solution overnight, all other ends/cuts get a foam brush hit twice. Better safe than sorry. I really do want the customer happy and tell them of the extra steps we take in getting it right for them. As a result we've not advertised for about 20 years.
Great job. Years ago I had my local aluminum guy make me caps for the top of my deck joists. 2" X 1 5/8" X 2". I held them in place with a couple of galvanized roofing nails until the deck boards were installed. 35 years later and no signs of water damage. The other idea I had was to apply an aluminum "L" shape fascia piece on the backside of the ledger board against the wall side. It provides a continuous cap and moisture protection when affixing it to the wall. I finish it with a silicone bead where the aluminum meets the wall. Again, 35 years later and the ledger board has no sign of any type of water damage.
What about breathability under deck? No issues against ledger board.
Like the idea of the spacers. Worked homeowner claims for 30 years. Literally saw hundreds of rotted ledger board which in turn rot out the sills. Nice job.
I have been doing the joist tape for year using ice and water menbrane, I always get good complements from the inspectors .I like your method
Does the sunlight create any kind of damage to it?
I did not know about copper in treatment and the joist tape. Learned something today. Thanks,
Thanks Joe! Always appreciate your comments buddy!
I just put a 12X24 deck on the back of our house -- and it's awesome! We decided to spring for the cool powder coated aluminum balusters that bow out and look like wrought iron. They look so cool.
Great vid, Matt. Always love your advice.
that is one beautiful deck you have built there. I noticed that flashing was not needed due to a pool application. and the lack of a rail system. I never liked relying on the structure for support, which I have done in the past. now I always have posts two or three feet from the structure. thank you for the video.
Matt,
Not trying to be Bob the builder here, but we primarily focus in roofing and decking. Mfm peel and seal is a great product that can be used to flash a ledger board. This is our go to Product. We will also cut down grace peel and stick.
Some of the nicest clean built decking I've seen 👍
I had to rebuild a section of my deck a couple weeks ago. When I saw this video pop up I was like, "Oh no, what am I going to regret that I did or didn't do"
I actually did all these things. Thank you so much for your videos.
I don't know if this knowledge was from other videos I've seen of yours or if you've just taught this guy to fish. I do know I was thinking moisture control first.
Thanks and keep them coming!
Great job on that deck. It was a good bit of extra work but it looks like it got hammered out with ease. Appreciate the tips
How awesome. I am literally starting my deck framing for my dream home after Labor Day. 12” OC and joist tape will definitely be on mine! Thanks, Matt!!!
I have personally built decks going on 25 years now, no issues, except for wood decking and railing spindles warpage. Framing, for the most part, is all good. Never used joist tape, or spaced boxes, and sunk all my 4x4's. There is nothing wrong with what you are doing, it's just you have to also give the other side of the coin too. 25 years, and counting, is pretty damn good. Always put ice and water behind my boxes and tamped gravel in the hole, before concrete.
climate is important i think. where im from with snow the posts wouldnt last in the ground any longer than my 2nd marriage
My deck are 12" on center or less and did it in 1993. The deck is the most solid deck I ever stepped on. Standard deck feels bouncy and flexes too much. It's a pain to put in the nails for the brackets back then with a hammer... not enough room to swing your hammer. Today, just use the pneumatic palm nailer or impact screw gun if you opt for screws designed for joist hangers. Great tips on ground contact lumbers and others. Syrprised you didn't mention roofing membrane and aluminum flashing against the house for water protection.
You can never go wrong with a palm nailer
Well said and so over looked
Thanks for the info video. I live in NC and on the process of replacing my house 2x 10 outer band and even replacing the second inner 2x10 in some area ! My deck is 12x60 ft long 🙁 they rotted from the ledger board flashing
I like how at 6:15 you said its a little bit optional talking about the tape, while showing joist hangers without the nails being driven all the way.
On ledger boards up against a house I put galvanized flashing that tucks up under the siding and then goes over the joists like an L. Under it is self healing peel and stick window tape and a bead of roofing tar. The boards on top might eventually rot, but they seem to dry out pretty quickly and there's no damage to the ledger/house.
Have two decks 30 yrs old. Posts are still not rotten.
Replacing my rotted siding and ledger board now. The idiot that built the deck nailed the ledger board to the house and never flashed or anything. These are all great tips that I plan to follow. Especially the Deck to Wall 5/8” ledger spacers.
Great video. That some heavy and expensive framing. What a solid deck. I'd love to see it 100% complete.
Coming soon!
Breathing protection probably good when cutting and making dust with high copper content, I've seen a lot of folks no being careful when removing antifouling bottom paint off boats on other social media feeds
Great work, that deck is going to last a lifetime!
That’s a mighty fine looking deck!
LOVE those Camo Edge Fasteners!!!
Joist tape here in Australia is code. Great video.
Matt, you should do a video comparing the different types of pressure treated material.
As a drafter I'm taking your tips and running with it for all future projects that I do
Thanks Man, that's really a high compliment! Matt
I live in upstate RAIN DOOM AND GLOOM New York, and I built a pressure treated 12x20 deck with 4x4's planted into the ground at the frost line (almost 3 feet deep) with 2x8 pressure treated joists 1 foot off the ground with pres treated 1x6x12 deck boards and they were NAILED with twist nails treated 2" and guess what? 34 years later, outside of normal fading to gray.....the deck looks like the day it was built. Not one board had to be replaced, no sagging, had enormously huge phat.....aunts and uncles all over it over the years, no "edge taping sealing", not extra treating over the years of the deck boards, no railings warping or getting loose, stairs look the day they went in. Nothing. Plain, old fashioned carpentry. OH, and 16" on center joists. No special "Yellawood" sold here or back then. Just...whatever Lowes was selling. Go figure.
chivone21 that’s how I build shit these guys building decks like this now days are paying way to much money for materials no one can afford this shit for high end inspections
The pressure treated wood you used 34 years ago is not the same that we use now. It was better back then. In 2004 the EPA banned the chemicals used to treat the old wood which is why these newer decks rot faster. Also, Yellawood is not some new company - they have been in the pressure treated business since the 70's.
Great building TH-cam channel that I pass on to family and friends!
Agreed but not with ledger spacing! Vinyl flashing and drip cap done right works great 👍
Thanks for your show Matt and thanks for the research you do on best products and practices
I've been watching several videos related to how built a deck , and you put all of them in one great video , nice job CAMO ( from old house great school) also one guy use deck spacers for the ledger
I frame my decks differently but I like that you're oversizing and underspacing the joists. I also like that you're using ground contact lumber. Rated and unrated has been on shelves for years and nobody knew it. This may be changing since this video was produced. Nice hustle man. And, get 10 deck builders in a room and you'll get 15-ways to build a deck, some claiming joist tape is necessary and others not. Probably a number of variables go into this. Where I build, I add it to any deck I resurface.
Dude, you were awesome in Hi-de-hi! And you developed an American accent... and moved to America... and got younger.
Matt...beautiful project!
Nice deck, you should however buy your guys a string line and show them how to use it. A keen eye will spot the bows in the installed deck boards (Pause at 7:17 and look at the furthest end, the 2nd, 3rd, 4th boards from the outside edge are installed like bananas).
Yeah horrendous
That a really nice change of pace on the insulation show
Stay tuned for a framing walk through on Friday!
You kill me Risinger. Lol "Onnnnn! The Build Show!" Lol Great video. Thank you for the input! Would not have thought to put the spacers between the ledger and deck frame so that wood can air out. That definitely makes sense.
He's like a 12 year old when he says that and its getting really old!!
Any tips for making plumb supports to bottome plates that are anchored, I just cannot see how the measurements are presice enough to be able to tighten the plate down, without having to kick it around to get it plumb, and hammering the dam tekko nails thrown it off two
I have used left over ice and water shield from roofing jobs to do the same thing as the joist tape.
1) Ground contact PT 2) Ledger board spacer 3) Concrete pier above grave w/ metal post base 4) Joist tape though optional for dry climates 5) Joist spacing 12"
In my opinion azek makes one of the best deck products I’ve ever seen
Awesome video Matt. Just in time for me and an upcoming deck we'll be building. I look forward to all your videos.
Would have loved to see that space under the deck made usable. Imagine a sloped pavement, LED lighting from the stone to deck joint seam, a couple of beanbags, a small spiral stair on the side of the deck from above to down below, and a bottle of wine overlooking that view.
But at the very least, make it look attractive from the water.
I am going to hang LUS46 hangers off my fascia board, do I:
1) Apply deck tape sandwiched between the fascia and the backside of the hanger? (will be using SDS screws)
or
2) Wrap the 4x6 beam in deck tape prior to setting it directly inside the hanger?
I’d love to see some fence tips. How would you set posts if not the standard hole with concrete? I’m debating between doing a fairly large fence by myself or paying for some of the work.
See my reply just above your comment on Robert Stark for some information
Was rebar added to the piers? If so, how many per pier and what thickness was the rebar?
I found this video super interesting and helpful. Thanks
@2:44 except building codes (IRC & DCA6) do not allow for brick like that to carry any load except for the weight of the bricks above it.
I hope you address stringer split. Every deck stair I see have the stringers split where to treads are screwed on typically splitting down to the riser portion. I suppose you could use end grain sealer on both cuts as well as joist tape under the tread. Anything else to keep the stringers/treads solid?
in a 6 x 8 shed will the doors open wide enough for a riding lawnmower?
Is it sad that I watch this channel sooo much...that I already knew all of this?
I’ve actually used roofing tar on my post and painted on heavily and then let it set up on it so that it’s almost dry then I put it in the hole And poured concrete around it and made sure that the concrete was below the top of the roof and Tara my posts and that’s given me over 20 years of life already counting what are your thoughts on that if you ever seen it?
Easy to tips and tricks etc etc That’s a great tip. I always do that to. Submerged posts have WAY less flex than than using those post stirrups
Beautiful deck and I love the view from it, but isn't there any code regulation for a safety railing, due to the height of the deck above the ground?
I’m sure they are gonna add railing next, that is way to high not to.
Code says you have to add railing to any deck that stands more than 30 inches high. Railing is done last, so I am sure they did it but just didn't show it on the video.
That deck is amaze-balls but I can not imagine how expensive it was
Have done a video on building decks using pedestal systems like Eurotech or Bison?
Hey Matt! Love your content, thanks for sharing. We moved into a home in the Wimberley area and have a second floor deck with suspect framing. Do you have any recommendations for a local company that services Hill Country to inspect and reinforce a second-floor deck with a primary focus on safety and sound construction principles?
Going 12" oc is so little extra money to have a deck with no bounce. Most decks you are talking 3 extra joists. Glad to see you show the joist tape in higher rain and snow conditions this is another inexpensive product with longevity. I have seen pressure treated framing rot in 2 years using above grade contact. I would only frame a deck with a ground contact product.
If it's composite deck boards you'll need it
it's one extra board for every 4 feet of deck.
it depends on the width of the board. It's better to have 2x10 16OC than 2x8s 12"OC ... way stronger the first one.
should i use pressure treated for a cabin foundation?
Great tips and great work with the video! Very well explained.
Marvelous video! Thanks man
Matt, I am building a second floor deck and want dry space underneath without doing a under deck solution. Do you have a video for insulation. Thanx
Great video. This will help in my upcoming project. I would also like to see a similar video but for building a dock!
Do you have any tips for not being on the "fix " the build crew, where someone took it to gaptown....
Wow! Great video. Thanks Ull use yr tips
Matty, you should do video😳😜🙃🤣🤣
Love your work 🤣🤣
Good job kid
Thanks for the helpful video! It is my understanding that stainless steel washers on galvanised bolts will cause some pretty nasty galvanic corrosion, and rust stains. Why not just use galvanised washers?
Have you ever put stone or tile on the surface of a deck with a water proofing material under the tile over plywood?
Ditra system
You can treat wood as much as you want it still will rot away in the end. Had it with my deck which became a death trap before I rebuilt it. Used recycled plastic wool and composit decking material. Seen plenty backyard fixes with wood on TV. Want to see what they look like in 5 years. Guaranteed not the same.
In nz we would use stainless steel everywhere for that deck it close to ocean and will get wet from pool water with its chemicals.. really like the joist tape would a dpc plastic stapled on do the same? Thinkn cost 👍 nice tips cheers
Yeah I'm building a deck right now in Dunedin, NZ. Was thinking to use DPC plastic on the joists, its a bit foreign for builders here to do that on a deck. Maybe our weather isn't rainy/consistenly damp enough to warrant it. Only difference I can see between DPC plastic and the decking/flashing tape is that if you make a penetration (i.e. nail/screw) the tape will seal up against the screw, whereas the DPC might just split a bit and let water sit between the joist and bottom of DPC... Where are you building in NZ?
Others have pointed out that he should have used SS because of pool chemicals, but rest assured...Matt's working in the Austin, TX area. That "ocean" is Lake Travis. Not salt water. :)
Actually, I can think of one reason why it might not necessarily be a good idea to use the more heavily copper impregnated, ground- contact lumber for all parts of a deck. I suspect that the ground-contact Lumber , with more than double the copper content, might be more corrosive and likely to interact with the Fasteners used. It might be best to use stainless fasteners everywhere if the entire deck is built of ground- contact rated, pressure-treated lumber. I foresee a problem with that approach as well, which is that your Simpson Strong-Tie joist hangers and other similar joist hangers for building decks are made of galvanized steel, so now you've got stainless Fasteners being used on galvanized steel joist hangers with heavily copper impregnated decking. Especially in a damp climate, this could be quite a recipe for hastening galvanic corrosion and leading to eventual structural weakening.
Those are some SOLID tips
I think of all the decks I've f'd up over the years lol. I've never used joist tape and I work in Seattle! Yikes!!! Although rot only occurs if it dries out so since it's always rainy I might be okay
How come you didn’t install a flashing over top of the ledger board to prevent water from getting in there in the first place?
TSizzle; I agree..Also, the picture of the “ledger board” is shown going in backwards. Should always be “bark side up” so the board curves toward the home-structure. Same for band boards, deck boards. Look at the end grain and imagine the board coming from a tree..It’s easy to see which way the board will cup over time ;-) I’ve seen way too many failures because people don’t know..
Matt, I have important questions for you that are on my mind. Firstly, thanks for the tutorial
You provided a couple great tips which I hadn't known about. As the son of a mechanical engineer and myself a micro-mechanical engineer (virtually the same principles) I'd always been a builder and would just for educational purposes and fun would often bat the ball back and forth with my dad about all kinds of builds.
However, again I have a question for you, a specialist in the field and not some know-it-all weekend warriors, whom I'm sure will feel compelled to weigh in on nonetheless.
My question for you Matt, and for Matt alone, revolves around that I have never believed in the wisdom of tying in a deck into the inner beams of a house where you can't see the nature of how they're holding up over the many years lifetime of a properly, well built tie-in deck. Where I live there are indigenous aggressive termites well known about by the home builders before they built but not by me since I came from another town. However, here you put the deck tie-ins into the admittedly robust walls of a swimming pool on a hill. Beside what little that we could see of the exterior of the bolts what type of terminal ends were anchored into the side of the swimming pool walls, was the bolting system made of a non-rusting material, how deep did they go in and what do you think of the wisdom of putting stress concentrating points in a vital pool wall which previously was uniform (as much as it can be) in a swimming pool where each gallon of water weighs about 8 pounds. The weight of the water and the pull on the wall of the deck represent quite a bit of potential energy. If the deck should be used for purposes unplanned for, eg. too many people crowding on it, their jumping up and down such as at a fourth of July display (yes, I've seen this filmed and the deck collapsing) and or the owners (or next owners if sold) deciding to build on it, eg. a stone hearth or cooking grill, etc.will all the tie-ins embedded hold up against that degree of extra pull and especially not combine with the weight of the water at new stress concentrating points? Beside the loss of aesthetics, would you not do better by adding vertical 6x6 inch supports next to the pool and possibly adding some under deck cross bracing between 6x6's proximal to one another? If you don't have time to answer all these questions, I'd very much appreciate knowing the mechanics of the bolt tie-ins to the pool wall and if they're not merely galvanized but rust proof. Also, how would you calculate the number of tie-in bolts needed?
I'd greatly appreciate it if you could shine some light on the parts of the build which you didn't cover in your otherwise very good presentation. Thanks!
Most of the weight would be down wards , so it's more a question of sheer strength of the fasteners. Wall looks pretty thick, and would have re-bar/ trimmer bars.
🤦🏻♂️ 😆
This is a very good job!
Matt, what do you think about 2x6’s for decking boards vs. regular decking boards... Obviously, if they can afford the composite, that’s the ultimate better way to do it...
I really like a 2x6 Cedar or Redwood deck. Fells and looks awesome. Some of the composite decks feel fake to me.
Thanks for the video.. learn something here, moisture and protecting.
Kooshy job. Bet the carpenters are digging it
I noticed you used joist hangers on the end of the deck. Is it not better to have them sit on top of the end beam?
Worst timing ever... just yesterday I finished extending my current 6x24 deck out to 18x24. Now Matt tells me how I should have done it 😭. If only this video had dropped last week...
The good news, the first 3 of the 5 tips I did anyway, and while I agree in theory with putting peel and stick on top of the joists I think it’s probably overkill (the existing 6x24 deck I built in 1988 without any joist protection and it’s still in excellent shape) and while 12” centers may be needed for Trex-like products, I’m using real wood decking and 30 years experience shows that 16” centers are fine in this application. Not saying that either tip is a bad idea, just that I’m ok with the fact that I didn’t do it.
The more I think about it, I suspect I *will* use joist protection if I ever build another deck...
John Early from my past 40 years experience in deck framing and tearout John is that if your deck is one that is in an area where water escapes quickly and your not in s rainforest type of environment meaning your not like my buddies deck on his cabin I just rebuilt that is in the Appalachian Mountains under a large canopy of mountains and it rains nearly ever day and it is literally a rain forest. In that application, following all of Matt’s recommendations really makes sense. But if your building a deck outside of San Antonio Texas and there is no tree cover close by and you only get 12” of rain a year then it’s not going to be as critical that all steps are followed so it sounds like your gonna be fine brother. You have the experience and knowledge to build a sound structure but it is nice to have Matt in our corner because he constantly makes us think and he brings awareness to new products that may take us another 3 years to hear about from our local lumberyards. I wish he would have been doing this 20 years ago but I, like you, always overbuild and go to the extreme and my projects still stand tall!!
Keep driving those nails john and thank you Matt for all the awesome info each week, homeowners all over the country are benefiting vastly because of you Matt, thank you!!!
16" centers feels bouncy with most decking products if you weigh over 180lbs. It's safe, nothing wrong structurally, but if you want a firm feel when walking, especially with guests, I'd recommend 12"
That also depends on what kind of post spacing you've got. Posts more closely spaced means 16" OC is firm as a rock.
My deck uses joists on 16" with Timbertech composite and it has a *tiny* amount of bounce, but it's only noticeable to me because I built it. Everyone who comes over thinks its rock solid. If you're using solid wood, you're absolutely fine. The issue comes if someone wants to run diagonally - then 12" OC is needed.
@@burtosis it also depends on what type of 2x lumber are you using for joists. 2x10 spaced 16OC is way stronger than 2x8s 12"OC
Good show
What if the end grain sealer seals up the moisture at the bottom of the post, not allowing the water and moisture to drain out of the bottom, causing premature rot? So many possibilities. Thanks for this video and making us think outside the box
Hello Matt.
I'm watching this lovely video over and over and I'm wondering what is the space between the concrete to the deck posts? 10feet 12 feet?
What your opinion about it? What will be the maximum space you're recommend? You know. .with 2×8 for stacking of course. .
Thanks
I am curious about your thoughts regarding fence installation with pressure-treated wood. Would you simply stick the fence posts in the ground and surround them with concrete or fasten them to a concrete pier that’s been put in place? Is it overkill? Is it not going to give you the rigidity you need in a fence?
There are a few methods for wood fence. Tried and true is setting into concrete, preferably encapsulating the post bottom completely. If possible, crown the concrete just slightly above ground level. If not, then a very shallow layer of soil, approximately 2" is plenty for grass to grow. There are companies that make steel channel posts with custom brackets for mounting your 2x rails on. We have used they handful of times but mostly the ol' 4x4 is the customer's choice. A Fence post is usually much easier and less cost prohibitive to replace than a direct buried deck post, plus the fact that a deck will support the weight of your family so it needs to be sound for a long time. Been around the Fence business since I was knee high to a grasshopper and doing home remodeling for about 10 years now. It's always interesting to see new methods and new products to better serve our customers. So never stop learning!
risinger said putting the post incapsulated in concrete isnt good. so maybe a small footer and a post bracket on top?
@@baltimoreace for a deck, setting the post like you would a fence is NOT the accepted common practice. The longevity of the most important part of the deck structure must be much better than a fence. Plus, decks can stay damp underneath it, I know it does under mine facing the North. Yet a fence post unless shaded by trees will see much more airflow and dry much quicker than deck framing. Generally a Fence post available now will last here in the Midwest will last 10-15 years easy, closer to 20 really. It's usually the rest or the frame work (when using treated material) that will give up sooner than the 4x4. If a person is really concerned about longevity, the steel channel post with brackets or even a round tube steel fence post with appropriate brackets would be the way to go. Or there are products out there like this too. www.jeften.com/products/versapost/compare.php. But it ultimately comes down to how much someone is willing to spend
look for pressure treated wood rated for soil ground contact.
Thanks great info. You verified a few things for me. 👍
How did you get away with no railing? Does it basically count as a dock?
How do you recommend attaching a deck to a brick veneer home. I have seen the simpson strong tie brackets designed to prevent loading of the veneer. What other options are there or can you recommend?
For mine I opened not to attach it to the house at all. No matter what you do it will want to move with the frost heave and I want to allow for that free movement instead of possibly pulling out bricks or something.
Would you recommend just using posts instead of attaching a deck to a house? I am thinking for sealing a house about not attaching it to the house and just use the posts and footers. Any thoughts?
Very cool and strong. Will make a great helipad for evacuating someone after they fall off the edge.
If using the dry decking material for a under the deck dry install how do you keep the water from getting behind the ledger board?
Love your Deck tips!
Great deck tips, but is there a security fence for the deck?
Great video!!! But seriously!!!!watch 4:00 to 4:30 with the sound off!!!😂😂 Nice Deck!
Cmon man! the boards didn't even line up in the end! But I guess that the video was about building a durable deck, the structural aspects were brilliant. Even better to protect the ledger board would be to use DPC with stainless staples on the concrete face.
Reminder to self: "When cutting lumber 'always' use eye protection gear." Likewise for fall protection. Thank you for the inspiration to be safe.
When attaching a ledger to a house, if you use flashing over it should you still use a spacer?
Matt, When i google on iron deck post i can’t seem to find them? where can i order the iron deck posts? And did you ever use helical piles? Thank you! You’re channel is awesome👊🏻 🙂
Love your videos.
Can someone help me with my questions please?
1) i have 25+ plus year old deck. I am trying to replace deck boards with Trex. Do I need to replace joist fasteners and joists?
2) my deck posts are built using cinder blocks. Are these Ok to keep using it or do I need to replace it?
Thank you
If your cinder blocks are solidly connected and reinforced, they can be as good as Matt’s steel columns. If they’re just sitting there then no.
If the joists don’t have rot and the new decking can span the gap, then you’re fine. Some decking can span bigger spaces than others.