Sure, fastest way to get the o-ring when you take it all apart is to put the one that comes new/reman unit in it’s place - but if you can get the res off without removing the pump, and can find the right o-ring, suppose it’s worth attempting. Might end up re-doing it or maybe it could get you by. Think you’d have to pull the pulley to clear the long screws that hold the res on, don’t know if there’s enough clearance to pull the pulley without removing the pump first however.
Daniel Medrano 6 days ago " I have 04 5.9 dodge 3500 I finished replacing the hydroboost, I did my bleeding wrong, I did it with the reservoir closed and the pressure broked the plastic reservoir. I would like to just replace the reservoir, is that possible? Also any advice to do the air bleeding better.... I really need the help." **Response: WITH LINKS (accidentally deleted original comment by editing a typo in mine and FUN FACT - backspace key will go to previous webpage when editing a thread/comment.. fyi)** Man, I didn't mean to leave ya hanging and delete ya, had no idea anyone was really commenting on this video. ok, sight unseen I'll see what I can suggest in general terms of what I would do.. maybe share some links or advice and hopefully figure out best course of action.. so - typically it needs to come out, at 2:37 if you look carefully you see two hex head bolts that span from front to rear as it is installed on the vehicle, one is above the other. there are those two that I recall, maybe scrub the video for other helpful pics of the reservoir and have your replacement ordered up and handy. If you can, maybe share a picture of it so I can be sure if its a pump or a hydro boost.. could be intending to refer to the same thing, also to let people know if it is a 3rd gen/4th gen style, also how your truck is configured etc? * Personally, and it may not be a text book procedure to leave the (vented) cap on, but I know they are harder to track down than the pump/reservoir - so I either make sure 100 % positive lock so I dont blow my lid off and then lose my fluid again, then have to replace the pump.. or I set it on the hood catch so I can absolutely not close the hood unless that cap is installed and verified. .. in case you couldn't tell, I lost my cap, got stranded in the middle of the Carolinas after Overland Expo, and no place that amazon prime was gonna be much help get me parts for the trip home before I was in trouble seriously gotta mod that cap.. after doing that, I didn't have any issues with the cap being ejected or jettisoned with psi build.. but it took a couple engineering/trade school college tries.. and I carried an extra cap in the vehicle after that modded cap was installed on my reservoir just as cheap insurance.. so I should technically recommend you stop and hire someone to tow it in and get it safely transported in to a reputable licensed insured shop.. or just try again with another pump reservoir -, but you need to take it out to swap it since they may be hard to reach or tighten properly in the engine bay. and maybe even see if you can get someone maybe at the local parts store to pull you a reservoir, and then look at the part where it bolts to the bracket.. see if you can identify the bracket and bolts that hold the res onto the pump/pulley assy. - and they may even be nice enough talk you through the bleeding process, there are different sites with various setups and methods you can look at to give you a quick refresher, I included one link below, or just search some forums (if you haven’t already since I see you posted this a week ago) and probably needed that rascal fixed in a hurry. Anyhow happy to try and help ya when I get some time to check back on the comments. This link (since you mentioned powerboost) shows the 4th gen style reservoir, and some additional info for you to sort thru. www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-4th-gen-hydrobooster.71025/ Also, this gal shows how to woman handle it, while the guy films and does a proper good job explaining it better (my focus was on the pump/parts not the bleeding) so maybe check this out out (even if it is a Power Stroke, they cover the pump/brake bleed and procedure pretty nicely) th-cam.com/video/RgovNX2gLVE/w-d-xo.html Search terms for their video: How to Bleed a Power Steering System on a Diesel Truck or Car. Here is the Power Steering Cap discussion. Mod it at your own risk. Make sure air can escape from it by creating a positive *AIRTIGHT* seal on it somehow.. and then create a pressure differential, check that the increased pressure is able to escape thru the cap to the low pressure side (outer exterior of cap) - if air escapes, you are good. if it requires excessive pressure to vent.. get your dremmel out and also some mechanism to remove the fill level indicator that snaps on inside the cap with the rubber vent seal you need to check *carefully* as you assemble and disassemble then re-assemble your cap. Depending on age, brittle plastic, exposure to VOC chemicals etc.. you may want to have a new or acceptable replacement on hand as a backup. www.cumminsforum.com/threads/pressurized-power-steering-cap-part.486051/ Reach out if you have any more info, parts questions, comments, feedback, item numbers or just need a sanity check. If I don't know it, chances are I know someone who does, and, I'll do what I can to get you the information you need to steer you back on course -or get you back to zero and begin again. I have schematics, contacts and TSB's in a file with all of my other truck records. Thanks for reaching out, and please share the answer if you find it first to help others out of a similar bind . Good Luck and hope this helps you!
I'm having some power issues and hearing a squealing noise when I press on the throttle. I don't think my turbo is quite out yet was wondering how to possibly clean the egr since I haven't yet done the delete
@@michaellewis9393 the best idea I can give ya, since that doesnt sound power steering related, is to check your turbo and intercooler intake horn and keeping in mind I dont have an EGR because that year was the "last of the mohicans" - either look up a video on how to pressure leak test your turbo, check your air intake for loosened hose clamps, run your ac with compressor on and off during acceleration, inspect belt.. maybe provide more info?
Can a guy just pull the reservoir off and change the oring? Is sounds like that's where the leaks usually originates.
Sure, fastest way to get the o-ring when you take it all apart is to put the one that comes new/reman unit in it’s place -
but if you can get the res off without removing the pump, and can find the right o-ring, suppose it’s worth attempting.
Might end up re-doing it or maybe it could get you by. Think you’d have to pull the pulley to clear the long screws that hold the res on, don’t know if there’s enough clearance to pull the pulley without removing the pump first however.
Daniel Medrano 6 days ago
" I have 04 5.9 dodge 3500 I finished replacing the
hydroboost, I did my bleeding wrong, I did it with the reservoir closed and the
pressure broked the plastic reservoir. I would like to just replace the
reservoir, is that possible? Also any advice to do the air bleeding better....
I really need the help."
**Response: WITH LINKS (accidentally deleted original comment by
editing a typo in mine and FUN FACT - backspace key will go to previous webpage
when editing a thread/comment.. fyi)**
Man, I didn't mean to leave ya hanging and delete ya, had no idea anyone
was really commenting on this video.
ok, sight unseen I'll see what I can suggest in general
terms of what I would do.. maybe share some links or advice and hopefully
figure out best course of action.. so - typically it needs to come out, at 2:37
if you look carefully you see two hex head bolts that span from front to rear
as it is installed on the vehicle, one is above the other. there are those two
that I recall, maybe scrub the video for other helpful pics of the reservoir
and have your replacement ordered up and handy.
If you can, maybe share a picture of it so I can be sure if
its a pump or a hydro boost.. could be intending to refer to the same thing,
also to let people know if it is a 3rd gen/4th gen style, also how your truck
is configured etc?
*
Personally, and it may not be a text book procedure to leave
the (vented) cap on, but I know they are harder to track down than the pump/reservoir -
so I either make sure 100 % positive lock so I dont blow my lid off and then
lose my fluid again, then have to replace the pump.. or I set it on the hood
catch so I can absolutely not close the hood unless that cap is installed and
verified. .. in case you couldn't tell, I lost my cap, got stranded in the
middle of the Carolinas after Overland Expo, and no place that amazon prime was
gonna be much help get me parts for the trip home before I was in trouble
seriously gotta mod that cap.. after doing that, I didn't have any issues with
the cap being ejected or jettisoned with psi build.. but it took a couple
engineering/trade school college tries.. and I carried an extra cap in the
vehicle after that modded cap was installed on my reservoir just as cheap
insurance..
so I should technically recommend you stop and hire someone
to tow it in and get it safely transported in to a reputable licensed insured
shop.. or just try again with another pump reservoir -, but you need to take it
out to swap it since they may be hard to reach or tighten properly in the
engine bay.
and maybe even see if you can get someone maybe at the local
parts store to pull you a reservoir, and then look at the part where it bolts
to the bracket.. see if you can identify the bracket and bolts that hold the
res onto the pump/pulley assy. - and they may even be nice enough talk you
through the bleeding process, there are
different sites with various setups and methods you can look at to give you a
quick refresher, I included one link below,
or just search some forums (if you haven’t already since I
see you posted this a week ago) and probably needed that rascal fixed in a hurry.
Anyhow happy to try and help ya when I get some time to
check back on the comments.
This link (since you mentioned powerboost) shows the 4th gen
style reservoir, and some additional info for you to sort thru.
www.ramforum.com/threads/how-to-4th-gen-hydrobooster.71025/
Also, this gal shows how to woman handle it, while the guy films and does a
proper good job explaining it better (my focus was on the pump/parts not the
bleeding) so maybe check this out out (even if it is a Power Stroke, they cover
the pump/brake bleed and procedure pretty nicely)
th-cam.com/video/RgovNX2gLVE/w-d-xo.html
Search terms for their video: How to Bleed a Power Steering
System on a Diesel Truck or Car.
Here is the Power Steering Cap discussion.
Mod it at your own risk. Make sure air can escape from it by
creating a positive *AIRTIGHT* seal on it somehow.. and then create a pressure
differential, check that the increased pressure is able to escape thru the cap
to the low pressure side (outer exterior of cap) - if air escapes, you are
good. if it requires excessive pressure to vent.. get your dremmel out and also
some mechanism to remove the fill level indicator that snaps on inside the cap
with the rubber vent seal you need to check *carefully* as you assemble and
disassemble then re-assemble your cap.
Depending on age, brittle plastic, exposure to VOC chemicals
etc.. you may want to have a new or acceptable replacement on hand as a backup.
www.cumminsforum.com/threads/pressurized-power-steering-cap-part.486051/
Reach out if you have any more info, parts questions,
comments, feedback, item numbers or just need a sanity check.
If I don't know it, chances are I know someone who does,
and, I'll do what I can to get you the information you need to steer you back
on course -or get you back to zero and begin again.
I have schematics, contacts and TSB's in a file with all of
my other truck records.
Thanks for reaching out, and please share the answer if you
find it first to help others out of a similar bind .
Good Luck and hope this helps you!
I'm having some power issues and hearing a squealing noise when I press on the throttle. I don't think my turbo is quite out yet was wondering how to possibly clean the egr since I haven't yet done the delete
@@michaellewis9393 the best idea I can give ya, since that doesnt sound power steering related, is to check your turbo and intercooler intake horn and keeping in mind I dont have an EGR because that year was the "last of the mohicans" - either look up a video on how to pressure leak test your turbo, check your air intake for loosened hose clamps, run your ac with compressor on and off during acceleration, inspect belt.. maybe provide more info?
Why are these videos so damn dark