Excellent video. This is the exact way a professional electrician would do the fan box installation! Very detailed and step-by-step approach to make a secure physical connection that subjected to the weight and vibration of the fan.
I'm not aware of such a product. All depend on side pressure and attachment to the joists with screws. I did a search and didn't find anything that is specifically designed for the set up you have. If you can reach somehow through the box hole to drive metal screws, that would solve the issue, but that's a tall order. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. DFJ
So im wondering your suggestions on using the "expanding" mount in the ceiling of a home that is plaster and lath. It seems this would mess with getting the box flush with the finished ceiling. Thanks in advance!!
I agree that using the expanding mount would be problematic. This is because the historic method of lath and plaster was to cover the walls and ceiling with lath, leaving gaps between them that the plaster would "mush" through, dry, and grip. These "keys" gripped the backside of the lath near the edges, and the plaster is proud of the lath backs. That means that you'd be at risk of breaking off the back side of the keys and having a section let go. You might be able to install the mount in the midsection of the joists and use a box extension, but I don't know how secure the grips on the end of the mount would be and how prone they would be to spin. I hope this helps. Best, DFJ
If we have no access to the attic and we're using the last retrofit mount that you turn, how fo we know if we have turned it tight enough? Also, what's with the red markings on the threads? Are they minimum and maximum markings? As said before, I cannot reach the area of the attic where this mount is being installed and the previous homeowners did not install studs in normal fistances so i dont know if they installed the ceiling joists in normal distances. Do i turn it until it can not be turned anymore?
Great video! How would I adapt this with a decorative Faux (hollow) beam installed on the ridge of the ceiling? The faux beam is not structural so I can attach any mount to it, but I still want to have good access to the electrical box from below.
Wow, that's quite a challenge. Is there a box there now up underneath the faux beam that you are attempting to make use of? Give me a bit more. Best, DFJ
These are great when you are doing it in a finished basement or wanting to add a fixture in a room that had no fixture. etc. But if you have attic access, woulnt adding a 2 x 4 between the trusses be a more solid option like in the first part of your video While some extra work to go up above, etc. I would assume that would even be more solid than the brace.
@@DirtFarmerJay I actually saw a setup where they put a 2x4 over the trusses and then another 2x4 vertical. Made it like an I beam of sorts. That way the top portion was drilled into the top of the trusses, not the sides. So made it even stronger. Overkill, maybe, but not much harder to do. I also subscribed
You've got a challenge! How much space exists between the backside of the ceiling and the underside of the roof or subfloor (if there is a floor above)?
If you have access from the attic space, yes. You can screw the mounting plates into the metal ceiling joists. If you don't have access, not really. The base plates for remodeling jobs have prongs on them that bite into the wood joists to hold them in place, and that won't work with steel. Best Regards, DFJ
Are there isolator pads to limit how much vibration is transferred to the ceiling joists which is especially important when installing ceiling fans in plaster ceilings?
Gary, I'm not aware of any, but that's a good question. I wouldn't be surprised if this is an item you could get from a supply house that specializes in renovation and restoration supplies for historic and older buildings. Best, DFJ
I've seen these for appliances but not fans. I think they are too thick and might not hold up to being drilled, but they are basically either cork or foam sandwiched between rubber, so you could diy something with sheet a sheet of cork or foam, rubber mat, etc.
The down rod kit should come with a mounting bracket that will match up with the mounting holes/screws in the new ceiling fan box. This allows the down rod to be suspended with the bracket attached with heavier screws to the junction/mounting box. The down rod is then threaded with the extended wiring harness, the suspension ball is affixed to the top of the down rod, and suspended in the bracket, and the wiring affixed to the wiring in the box. A trim ring is brought up the down rod to cover the mount, and then the remaining work is done on the lower end of the rod as the fan is set up. I hope this helps! Best, DFJ
You need to make a determination if the box is adequately mounted and can take the weight of the fan and it's vibration. It is better if the box is removed and a heavy duty box with better fasteners is installed. How is the current one mounted? Best, DFJ
Am I the only that will reach in first and feel the sides of the joists to make sure I don't pinch and damage existing wire that might be running along the joist. This is not even mentioned in the instructions.
I have blown loose insulation on the ceiling, so I cant touch those joists like in the video, also it does not show screwing of the box on the brace, where is which it does not work and I had to stop and return the item
I must be missing all the videos of the demonstrator aligning the bracket bolts to the box holes and any tips to make it easier. They all skip this step.
A very educational video. I liked the fact that you showed and demonstrated each option.
Thanks for writing!
Thanks to this video, I was able to install my Flush Ceiling Fan myself 😂😂 thanks for it.
Love it, great to hear!
This is the most informational video on this subject that i have seen so far. Great Job and thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Good evening from San Jose , California!! Great illustrations 😃👍🏼!!
Excellent video. This is the exact way a professional electrician would do the fan box installation! Very detailed and step-by-step approach to make a secure physical connection that subjected to the weight and vibration of the fan.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Q
Thanks for Sharing, very Helpful and Big Help for DIY. Great Video
Glad to be of help!
Thanks! I just installed a retrofit box today according to your instructions.
Excellent!
Saved my butt with this. Thank you so much!!! The older I get the more I know I don't know (if that makes sense)
Glad to be of help!
Very clear and very helpful video. Thank you for posting this, it's exactly what I was looking for.
Glad to be of help! DFJ
Fantastic video. Very clear and precise. Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great video.
Thanks for sharing.
New subscriber here.
The last one on your video is what I need to install my living room light fixture.
Thanks for the sub and glad you found this to be helpful! Best, DFJ
thank you sir for all your time making this great video
My pleasure.
Good tips. I went with the brace kit option. The previous ceiling fan electrical box / mount box was worse than a hack.
Glad you got the fan securely installed!
Thank you Dirt Farmer Jay 😃👍🏼!!
You bet!
Thank You for your help...
All good and nicely done, Farmer Jay. One small note: On the adjustable 24 inch fan hanger, that would be equivalent to 60 cm, instead of "61 mm." 😁😉😎
Thanks!
Good idea. Getting a new ceiling and will haven access to the joists before the Sheetrock goes up!
Yep, that's the easiest way to do it! Best, DFJ
Are there a ceiling fan box brace that will work on metal joist with no attic access? Thank you.
I'm not aware of such a product. All depend on side pressure and attachment to the joists with screws. I did a search and didn't find anything that is specifically designed for the set up you have. If you can reach somehow through the box hole to drive metal screws, that would solve the issue, but that's a tall order. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. DFJ
Thank you
You're welcome!
Good morning from Southeast South Dakota
Very useful info. I wonder if there was a device to make this job easier on remodel. Looks to save alot of time. Thank you Sir
Hello there!
Couldnt i use a new work joist brace in an old work situation if i have attic access?
So im wondering your suggestions on using the "expanding" mount in the ceiling of a home that is plaster and lath. It seems this would mess with getting the box flush with the finished ceiling. Thanks in advance!!
I agree that using the expanding mount would be problematic. This is because the historic method of lath and plaster was to cover the walls and ceiling with lath, leaving gaps between them that the plaster would "mush" through, dry, and grip. These "keys" gripped the backside of the lath near the edges, and the plaster is proud of the lath backs. That means that you'd be at risk of breaking off the back side of the keys and having a section let go. You might be able to install the mount in the midsection of the joists and use a box extension, but I don't know how secure the grips on the end of the mount would be and how prone they would be to spin. I hope this helps. Best, DFJ
If we have no access to the attic and we're using the last retrofit mount that you turn, how fo we know if we have turned it tight enough?
Also, what's with the red markings on the threads?
Are they minimum and maximum markings?
As said before, I cannot reach the area of the attic where this mount is being installed and the previous homeowners did not install studs in normal fistances so i dont know if they installed the ceiling joists in normal distances.
Do i turn it until it can not be turned anymore?
Great video! How would I adapt this with a decorative Faux (hollow) beam installed on the ridge of the ceiling? The faux beam is not structural so I can attach any mount to it, but I still want to have good access to the electrical box from below.
Wow, that's quite a challenge. Is there a box there now up underneath the faux beam that you are attempting to make use of? Give me a bit more. Best, DFJ
These are great when you are doing it in a finished basement or wanting to add a fixture in a room that had no fixture. etc. But if you have attic access, woulnt adding a 2 x 4 between the trusses be a more solid option like in the first part of your video While some extra work to go up above, etc. I would assume that would even be more solid than the brace.
I totally agree! A well attached cross block is incredibly strong.
@@DirtFarmerJay I actually saw a setup where they put a 2x4 over the trusses and then another 2x4 vertical. Made it like an I beam of sorts. That way the top portion was drilled into the top of the trusses, not the sides. So made it even stronger. Overkill, maybe, but not much harder to do. I also subscribed
Details like this greatly increase the quality of the construction. Thanks for subscribing!
6:47. The plot thickens!
No attic access. Or old work between floors.
You've got a challenge! How much space exists between the backside of the ceiling and the underside of the roof or subfloor (if there is a floor above)?
When fully extended the weight carrying capacity is halved , read the instructions carefully and make sure fixture is the correct weight for it
Right you are. Best, DFJ
While using 24” rafters gap, there is an approximate fan weight that option can support?
Right at 70 lbs. according to the specifications provided by the retailer.
My instruction just said mount to beam in ceiling, used a finder to locate it. Should I be worried?
The main idea is assure you have the box securely mounted, and that the hardware to mount the fan unit to the box is adequate. Best, DFJ
This is a perfectly described video . I picked up a ceiling fan brace but realized I should have gotten a remodel one .. thanks again
You're welcome!
You the man
Aw garsh....
Does it work on metal studs as well? Or is there any other option for metal studs?
If you have access from the attic space, yes. You can screw the mounting plates into the metal ceiling joists. If you don't have access, not really. The base plates for remodeling jobs have prongs on them that bite into the wood joists to hold them in place, and that won't work with steel. Best Regards, DFJ
@DirtFarmerJay Thanks for sharing. You have been very helpful.
Are there isolator pads to limit how much vibration is transferred to the ceiling joists which is especially important when installing ceiling fans in plaster ceilings?
Gary, I'm not aware of any, but that's a good question. I wouldn't be surprised if this is an item you could get from a supply house that specializes in renovation and restoration supplies for historic and older buildings. Best, DFJ
I've seen these for appliances but not fans. I think they are too thick and might not hold up to being drilled, but they are basically either cork or foam sandwiched between rubber, so you could diy something with sheet a sheet of cork or foam, rubber mat, etc.
Next question: How to attach the dowrod kit to the retrofitted brace! Plz!
The down rod kit should come with a mounting bracket that will match up with the mounting holes/screws in the new ceiling fan box. This allows the down rod to be suspended with the bracket attached with heavier screws to the junction/mounting box. The down rod is then threaded with the extended wiring harness, the suspension ball is affixed to the top of the down rod, and suspended in the bracket, and the wiring affixed to the wiring in the box. A trim ring is brought up the down rod to cover the mount, and then the remaining work is done on the lower end of the rod as the fan is set up. I hope this helps! Best, DFJ
what if the hole is already there and the box isn't a ceiling fan box?
You need to make a determination if the box is adequately mounted and can take the weight of the fan and it's vibration. It is better if the box is removed and a heavy duty box with better fasteners is installed. How is the current one mounted? Best, DFJ
I did all that and still my fan fell down on me,the bracket that attached to the electric box failed and let the hanging ball off ,anyway …
Yeow, sorry to hear that!
You either didn't tighten the box to bracket, or didn't screw the bracket into the joists
Am I the only that will reach in first and feel the sides of the joists to make sure I don't pinch and damage existing wire that might be running along the joist. This is not even mentioned in the instructions.
That's a great insight. Thanks for mentioning it! I'll put it in the video description for that episode.
I have blown loose insulation on the ceiling, so I cant touch those joists like in the video, also it does not show screwing of the box on the brace, where is which it does not work and I had to stop and return the item
Thanks for letting us know. Best, DFJ
I must be missing all the videos of the demonstrator aligning the bracket bolts to the box holes and any tips to make it easier. They all skip this step.
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽
Shop ghost @ 11:47? 😂
LOL!
Great...but now do it with the wiring
Thanks for the nudge!
Ghost!? lol
This video doesn't demonstrate an actual install. Kind of a waste of time really.
Thanks for stopping by.
He’s only illustrating how to “prepare” to install a ceiling fan. Not a whole install of fan …there’s other videos available for that particular job