Nice work. I just did a set of toy soldiers, world war two in the desert, and the transfer paper I got proved very thin indeed (thinner than the last lot) and that made applying the decals difficult. I've got a sci0-fi set to do so I'll try using paper. I have used paper for larger markings in the past but the edges were noticeable, I think the smaller decals might look better. Thanks for sharing.
About half of model kits of modern aircraft come with decals as small as the smallest shown here. It is possible to make them but they come from a professional printer, I don't know if you could print something like that on decal paper at home. But this is also a great solution, the thickness of the paper can be interpeted asif the markings are metal plates bolted on the mech itself like a licence plate we see on cars for example. Sometimes seat belts are included as a decals in aircraft kits, I cut those out and keep them on the decal paper for some realistic thickness. It would be great if the mechs just came with the kind of decals you mention at the end. For the price they sell the mechs for those decals should be included. But this is a great solution also and it definitely levels tne models up! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
dude ... I was already impressed with the base Base labels you did a few months back ... but those things are genius! I urgently need to try those! especially for my custom units insignia 2 questions i got: What kind of printer would you recomend for printing for those decals? Ink or Laser? Do you finish your models with clear varnish to better preserve the decals and would this be a good thing in your opinion?
GB, thanks for this great how-to video. For your unit icons, what dimensions might you use, 1.5-2mm-4mm diameter for round shapes perhaps? And for square similar? For rectangler 1.5 x 3mm to 2 x 4mm? For the others use the sizing scale of those previous mentioned common shapes which best allows the uncommon shape to fit? I understand the it isn't rocket science so some experiments need to occur, but rather than starting from zero base, what have you found to work well. Thanks KSW
I usually make them as big as I can. It depends on the flat areas of the mini. If I get too small, you can't even see details in army badges. I try not to go smaller than 1/8 inch square
How do you fix them to the models? Just matte-varnish spray? do you ever have any swell and become dislodged, or roll-up! on the edges? This is a Killer idea that I am certain many folks have had before, but no onebut YOU! (that I personally have seen on youtube!) has done it with Battletech. From one Battle-Techer to another: "May your Rosters of Mechwarriours always be as full as the Mechs' in your Inventory! No Mechwarrior lives foever!!!" hhahaa
I just use white glue. I haven't had any problems. Sometimes I spray the model with a dull coat after, but that is not required. the paper can soak up paint and washes... so just apply these last. I paint a bit of watered down brown wash to create 'dripping oil or mud stains' a bit after
When I make numbers, they have to have the specific color of the mini as a background, that is why I didn't include them. But maybe i will add numbers with basic background colors like black, gray, green etc.
Waterslide decals, at this size, would be an absolute nightmare! The colors would also be muted unless you use white backed decal paper. If the thickness of the paper is a concern, you could use the reverse varnish technique; where you print the "decal" image in reverse, apply varnish of choice, apply, then moisten the paper and scrub to remove after its been given time to set.
Not really. Unless you have a white ink or equivalant it won't work. Also, the file would have to be prepped to have a transparent background. this is more simpler stuff. Usually, modellers printing their own decals also design their own decals... I would do so but I would want to be able to print 'white'
Thanks for providing these free resources to the Battletech community. You are awesome sir.
Nice work. I just did a set of toy soldiers, world war two in the desert, and the transfer paper I got proved very thin indeed (thinner than the last lot) and that made applying the decals difficult. I've got a sci0-fi set to do so I'll try using paper. I have used paper for larger markings in the past but the edges were noticeable, I think the smaller decals might look better. Thanks for sharing.
About half of model kits of modern aircraft come with decals as small as the smallest shown here. It is possible to make them but they come from a professional printer, I don't know if you could print something like that on decal paper at home. But this is also a great solution, the thickness of the paper can be interpeted asif the markings are metal plates bolted on the mech itself like a licence plate we see on cars for example. Sometimes seat belts are included as a decals in aircraft kits, I cut those out and keep them on the decal paper for some realistic thickness. It would be great if the mechs just came with the kind of decals you mention at the end. For the price they sell the mechs for those decals should be included. But this is a great solution also and it definitely levels tne models up! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Nice idea! I'm looking forward to trying this.
dude ... I was already impressed with the base Base labels you did a few months back ... but those things are genius! I urgently need to try those! especially for my custom units insignia
2 questions i got:
What kind of printer would you recomend for printing for those decals? Ink or Laser?
Do you finish your models with clear varnish to better preserve the decals and would this be a good thing in your opinion?
I need a Sigtrygg Poulsen "The Red Dukes Personal Guard" decal for my Kurita Griffin. I want to match the box art.
Welp, I'm going to try this since i want to use a custom logo on my mechs and I'm done with the standard decals folding while i try to place them.
GB, thanks for this great how-to video. For your unit icons, what dimensions might you use, 1.5-2mm-4mm diameter for round shapes perhaps? And for square similar? For rectangler 1.5 x 3mm to 2 x 4mm? For the others use the sizing scale of those previous mentioned common shapes which best allows the uncommon shape to fit? I understand the it isn't rocket science so some experiments need to occur, but rather than starting from zero base, what have you found to work well. Thanks KSW
I usually make them as big as I can. It depends on the flat areas of the mini. If I get too small, you can't even see details in army badges. I try not to go smaller than 1/8 inch square
How do you fix them to the models? Just matte-varnish spray? do you ever have any swell and become dislodged, or roll-up! on the edges? This is a Killer idea that I am certain many folks have had before, but no onebut YOU! (that I personally have seen on youtube!) has done it with Battletech. From one Battle-Techer to another: "May your Rosters of Mechwarriours always be as full as the Mechs' in your Inventory! No Mechwarrior lives foever!!!" hhahaa
12:30
I just use white glue. I haven't had any problems. Sometimes I spray the model with a dull coat after, but that is not required. the paper can soak up paint and washes... so just apply these last. I paint a bit of watered down brown wash to create 'dripping oil or mud stains' a bit after
Nice going to have to try these out 🤔🤔 what about tartens
I have to be honest, doing this never crossed my mind! It's genius! I can't wait to try it. Do you just print it on normal paper?
Yes. just normal paper... some paper is slightly better quality, but i use regular printer paper
@@GameBeardLovesYou thanks a lot!
Great video! Do you know where I can find the numbers as well?
When I make numbers, they have to have the specific color of the mini as a background, that is why I didn't include them. But maybe i will add numbers with basic background colors like black, gray, green etc.
Can you print that on decal paper?
That was my thought as well. You wouldn't need to worry about matching colours for the "transparent" images then.
Waterslide decals, at this size, would be an absolute nightmare! The colors would also be muted unless you use white backed decal paper.
If the thickness of the paper is a concern, you could use the reverse varnish technique; where you print the "decal" image in reverse, apply varnish of choice, apply, then moisten the paper and scrub to remove after its been given time to set.
Yeah I was wondering how well the old photo to wood style transfer would work at that scale.
Not really. Unless you have a white ink or equivalant it won't work. Also, the file would have to be prepped to have a transparent background. this is more simpler stuff. Usually, modellers printing their own decals also design their own decals... I would do so but I would want to be able to print 'white'