Mate I'm not into electronics but if I was, your channel would be an absolute fooking goldmine, especially for younger students learning how stuff works, or product designers. Regardless, I find your channel interesting! I love the level of detail you go to, missing nothing. Keep it up.
Good thing you saved it from the trash. I have a couple of these in use in my household and in one of them the battery failed. I couldn't revive it so instead I modified it into a fire prevention cut-off. I replaced the control circuitry with a bit of discrete transistor logic, a reset button and an optocoupler (all salvaged components, of course ;)) so a smoke detector can trigger the relay off.
@@petrsimon3 Yes, the thing consumes around 1.2 W × 24 h/day × 365 days/year ≈ 10 kWh/year, and at $0.25/kWh (reasonably low rate since 1/3 ofthe time it runs on low-cost "night power") that equals *$2.63.* Some mechanical ones may be even worse.
@@DrRedstone172 Nope, the fact that they draw current out of phase with voltage does not mean they return the power. In fact, they _need_ some energy to turn the dial, and that means some *real* power _needs_ to be drawn. Reactive "power" always gets returned to the outlet and is caused by devices with a poor power factor. It cannot perform work.
Wow I just found one of these devices in my scrap bin last week. It has a slightly different panel but identical relay board. I removed the logic board and wired in a foot switch to control the relay instead.. essentially just hooked up a NC foot switch to the outer pins of the grey flat 3 wire connecting cable. Shorting the outer pins turns off the relay and leaving them floating allows it to turns on (fail on), powering whatever is plugged in. I am sure on mine though, the active/live (Australian plug) was the switched line, not the neutral as per the reversed schematic. Anyway that was fun seeing something explained in detail that I had just been hacking on!
Very nice teardown and analysis! Thanks for posting this. So it seems I could easily modify this circuit to operate from a 12vdc power source, if I just substituted a relay w/ 12vdc coil. And of course I'd need to change the top resistor in the voltage divider that powers the blob and keeps the battery charged. Thanks again for the clear and detailed video.
My timer has the display on and battery has power but power is not reaching the output when it is on not even the red led on it as if it was unplugged. I just read on on the screen. Is it definitely a broken relay?
The voltage dropper capacitor fails too if old device. If we let fall one of this devices the glass zener can crack also. It is a simple fix but normally people throw it away or go to warranty.
They switch the neutral because if the appliance that will be powered has a short between live and ground you will notice that at the moment you plug it in the timer not after several hour or days .
Half of Europe doesn't even use polarized plugs (because it doesn't really offer any additional safety), there's no way to know which line in a device will be live. This device will be sold in many countries, with just the plug being exchanged (it is modular as you can see in the video).
French have phase on the right so it switches that. In the Czech Republic the neutral is on the right. Also they likely make it for other countries also with schuko type output. Those generally also have phase on a right. While schuko is not polarized most people would hook it pointing down.
Wouldn't it be better to lower the resistances in the divider for the battery? It would lower the power dicipation on the zener and also let the battery to charge up faster
I have same :) one is working (it's one year old turing fan in my room on for day and turning it off for night) one stopped working like 8 years ago after very long being unconected from socket ;( It's very old construction produced for today but i think very nice with very accurate clock (after 2 weeks it is synced with my phone in +- one second, after 2 weeks it's still one second)
I have the same model,but when I leave it plugged in for longer then a day all display elements are lit up.You can't read the values on the display only under extreme angle.But the timer and relay function still work fine.What could cause this?
The display sees an overvoltage and so all segments are visible. The battery is charged all the time and when it wears out, it no longer pulls the voltage down. the voltage rises in the control circuitry, causing this symptom - inactive segments on the display are visible. Replace the battery or change the resistive divider ratio or put couple series diodes in parallel to the battery to clamp the voltage.
Did you also find some of this stuff in the 'electric waste' bin at a big DIY store? Those are treasure troves I tell you! What good stuff people throw away...
I think use & throw electronic devices should be banned... All devices should be repairable by law. That will reduce E-waste & create new jobs for repair shops as well.
You said something like "I have one too and black spot is on the same place... Changing this zener diode would be good" ? PS. Translating by Pole who don't know Czech but our leanguges are a bit similar.
A common problem with these if you leave them unplugged to long the battery goes flat & there's not enough charge current to get it working again, so I've had to take them apart & stick some current up the battery then they work fine again
Cat is just going out of plastic inside of it and wants to refill reserves... Everybody knows cats are running on plastic bags and Christmas decorations, right???
Hi, thanks a lot for share this info with all of us, very nice video. question: (minute 10, schematic) beteween diode bridge and Zener, is it missing a resistor? if not, Zener will receive 100% DC voltage (310V DC) from bridge bridge and i guess it can´t work. waiting for your comments. best regards Alfredo
Please tell me what damage the switch or the control circuit can suffer by using higher than 2Ampers of inductice load. Atleast this lable explains what the meaning of the 10 (2) A on the other similar sockets, but not the why.
I'd still change the battery in it, love the days of the week options. I could see that coming in handy. But why their using a 48V coil in the relay is stupid driving that zener to hard. Can anyone tell me why the inductive load is only 2amps?? Is it because of the digital components inside or just cheaping out on a decent cap for noise filtering .. or am I way off??? Anyone??
hi, the 48v coil is probably needed to move the heavy 32a contacts, if you had a 5v coil it would need about 1 amp to magnetically pull the contact spring over. It doesnt seem to have any snubber on the contact for inductive loads so saved a few cents, most people use timers for electric heaters or lights (resistive loads) but hardly ever used with things like washers with motors or pumps. i guess people who do that, buy a different timer or just take the risk that the contact will fail one day. The battery might be ok as the timer comes from the factory with the battery not charged and most still seem to work when you take them home.
No, that's not how a capacitive droppers work. They always provide a (pretty much) constant amount of current. The power consumption will always be the same, no matter what you do at the output.
@@superdau Current is nearly constant, but the circuit can lower the voltage to NiMH's 1,3V instead of running all the current through a 50V zener diode. Real power consumption will be then lowered to some 5% of the initial value. Apparent power will stay almost the same though.
@@k4be. The current from mains is constant, not the output current. If you use less current on the output the voltage after the dropper will rise (up to mains voltage if none is used at all) and destroy the electronics, if you draw more current, the voltage will drop below what the electronics need.
@@superdau The output current (including the shunt regulator circuit) is equal to the mains current. Imagine the relay being powered in series with the control electronics. These electronics will need to have their own shunt regulator to prevent overvoltage. Let's say the relay needs 10mA at 48V, and electronics have voltage drop of 1.5V. The relay would have a 51V zener diode across it, and the capacitive dropper circuit would be designed to a current of about 15mA to account for component and voltage tolerances. Thus, the power consumption of this circuit will be about 15mA*(51V+1.5V)=0.8W, with apparent power of 15mA*230V=3,45VA. Then, make it short the relay coil with a transistor, so the voltage on it will drop to nearly 0V. This will cause the capacitor current to increase a bit, say 1mA. Now, we have the power of 16mA*1.5V=24mW, that's 3% of the original value. This is not including the bleeder resistors and capacitor losses.
It's used where you normally have at most 300VAC or 385VDC (it passes virtually no current at those voltages), but at 1mA it drops 470V and at 50A it drops 775V according to the datasheet.
@@DiodeGoneWild yep, I mean 470V varistor is the protection devide for 230AC, if V>300AV it starts conducting. I just don't understand why did you write "varistor voltage" instead of the protection voltage
Would be illegal to sell in the UK and I expect most of the EU. In the UK we tend to have an earthed neutral which is why we are not allowed to have fuses in the neutral lines. As if the neutral fuse blows the internals of the device are still live and a safety hazarded.
Since half of Europe doesn't even use polarized plugs (because it doesn't really offer any additional safety), there's no way to know which line in a device will be live.
@@superdau We have our hand held all the the time in the UK, switched outlets, Live and neutral in the same place in all sockets, and oftern the neutal connected to the earth. Fuses in all 13A polarized plugs. We tend to have TN-S or TN-CS supplies where the neutral is earthed at the power transformer. Thanks for pointing out that Europe is different.
Typical mistake with "capacitor dropper" - when no payload on output, output must short! When relay not work, all relay current sent to small zener and overheat it. Another dumb mistake is using a serial regulator like 7805 (only a shunt regulator like tl431 must be used).
This inefficient circuit with overheating zener is popular only because it's cheaper than two capacitors one of them is connected after relay. Эта неэффективная схема с перегретым стабилитроном популярна только потому, что она дешевле, чем схема с двумя конденсаторами, один из которых подключён после реле.
I had to try that out. Turns out the 470 ohm resistor in series with the mains will now be the biggest consumer, at 300mW. Total consumption when the relay is off is 450mW and about 1.5W when it is on, depending on the relay coil. Only downside in my design: it needs 2 100V transistors. (1 PNP + 1 N-ch) I will post a link to the circuit I made below.
In the following circuit, the 10mF (not µ) capacitor and the zener next to it models the battery. The resistor with inductor in series is the relay coil. The mosfet represents the timer's switch output. www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html?ctz=CQAgzCAMB0l3AWAnC1b0DYQFZpLAgExLaRgYDsYShkAHDgjiAmAFABuOAjISNzR59ukJpH45xBceO7Qw9FBnx0U2Cggp8Y2NgGMQGMMPI4KWbqanRi6O0oCmAWgognxuaJpg6kDH8JkNgAnMwtBI2FBcU1INgBzEAo6JkIMJmTUugY4ghAALw4AewAbABcAQ3iHAB0ARzB5KH5oCm5WbEI6AS76bLBnV3E+RvZ8pJSQNIzJnqmC4vKq2ob5NgATQ2wLUwxtpL4+dYcAMwqAV3KNw2z+CNuteeOzy7LrvaxprZ3PkGeLq6bDC3L7AhhzI6nAFvADu3wONwYjzicI+U3SiPRYjYqOM-F2+0sWBRhjxczBd20bDKIDohNM3R+zSc3FpsCQGGB+HICGwSF8fCcMEgXQQYqQ3D2-P5YCo4LgONpkv4tCVWGRisZCMyCJJWu4nTVlKgmuVcx1cxJFsEFENlsVtr4jx1GtRIIxWmGGLitCQSTtNsNXxksHgrMatG2tm6SF5Rh8-AdQY9k2DbF9IBoskEWaxzWFrOFdB8xmy3S0xew3Fc3BCRrmZeNMQoVtTGMbabhnrzjrzVtVzsNrsxzoHVLyhVKlWq9W9LTaHS6PV8ZYGLmafHSbHGvfNQ8OCyny1nCDrdKZuaJzTAChJl8EIgQ2apcNzXxQh29bBO-FEwwQDAflMAHgMIUA2IqQGEHiQFXrkTCTksM51HI2DNHIC5gJ0Ma9Kugwbi0ujjB27a3BCh5ISsqGau6TBvl+cKNnM94vpmqpXrBVhsCUExMFe1raOBkCWPAoliXAhahrK2AIOkBqBJQexYRQdYuk6sxWFMtBxKE574lgenIr+ommuqfCGax3Z7lEVIAM6-k+xqPv+OTNGcJS2Q4dbqBYoiksIfmyOJio+Q5YT6SauIBUwkQRSSoVzFWNkmvZSVhQlgVuRUHleUU16CbQVB+ukIYFdebB5VITpTJAGiuCV4GFhIT4VSwoFJDVdXMMKaGsn1Ni6HlxDta4hWaN1oZwEg5hRr1EiDVMEB4sMtXjTABoYIQaEFlt8yHEtrWWCNnXjYQ0DbdA4YSMK8DmMQ1C8mAvALSM1VjaNIasnxNVsEAA
That's not how a capacitive droppers work. They always provide a (pretty much) constant amount of current The power consumption will always be the same, no matter what you do at the output.
@@superdau Wrong. Yes, the current is roughly constant. But the power dissipation depends on the voltage drop across the RESISTIVE elements in the circuit. If you short-circuit a resistive element in the circuit, there is no voltage across that element, meaning zero power dissipation. That's how you can save power in a capacitive dropper circuit. Think of a capacitor alone connected across mains. It only draws reactive current, there is no power dissipation. If you add a resistor in series, it forms a complex voltage divider based on the impedance, and the part across the resistor generates heat.
Half of Europe isn't using polarized plugs, so you don't know which wire is live and which is neutral when plugging something in. It doesn't offer any additional safety, as does switching live. You could always have a break in the neutral wire somewhere, making a device not work but be "live".
Mate I'm not into electronics but if I was, your channel would be an absolute fooking goldmine, especially for younger students learning how stuff works, or product designers. Regardless, I find your channel interesting! I love the level of detail you go to, missing nothing. Keep it up.
Good thing you saved it from the trash.
I have a couple of these in use in my household and in one of them the battery failed. I couldn't revive it so instead I modified it into a fire prevention cut-off. I replaced the control circuitry with a bit of discrete transistor logic, a reset button and an optocoupler (all salvaged components, of course ;)) so a smoke detector can trigger the relay off.
Sad that the original owner threw it out. For this reason, digging through scrap electronics should not be frowned upon.
@Mai Mariarti not true, it's about 1$ per year
@Mai Mariarti in Czech Republic is 1kW for between 0.2 - 0.5$
@@petrsimon3 Yes, the thing consumes around 1.2 W × 24 h/day × 365 days/year ≈ 10 kWh/year, and at $0.25/kWh (reasonably low rate since 1/3 ofthe time it runs on low-cost "night power") that equals *$2.63.* Some mechanical ones may be even worse.
@@vaclavtrpisovsky mechanical ones use reactive power to charge its motor coils and reactive power is not charged to home users
@@DrRedstone172 Nope, the fact that they draw current out of phase with voltage does not mean they return the power. In fact, they _need_ some energy to turn the dial, and that means some *real* power _needs_ to be drawn. Reactive "power" always gets returned to the outlet and is caused by devices with a poor power factor. It cannot perform work.
Wow I just found one of these devices in my scrap bin last week. It has a slightly different panel but identical relay board. I removed the logic board and wired in a foot switch to control the relay instead.. essentially just hooked up a NC foot switch to the outer pins of the grey flat 3 wire connecting cable. Shorting the outer pins turns off the relay and leaving them floating allows it to turns on (fail on), powering whatever is plugged in. I am sure on mine though, the active/live (Australian plug) was the switched line, not the neutral as per the reversed schematic. Anyway that was fun seeing something explained in detail that I had just been hacking on!
Thanks for the digital timer fix video, I was able to fix my newly purchased timer with missing diode next to the 1.2v nimh battery.
Very nice teardown and analysis! Thanks for posting this. So it seems I could easily modify this circuit to operate from a 12vdc power source, if I just substituted a relay w/ 12vdc coil. And of course I'd need to change the top resistor in the voltage divider that powers the blob and keeps the battery charged. Thanks again for the clear and detailed video.
Finally another video! Thanks!
This device has a zener diod
of 48v but I haven't got one so is it possible to join two z d one of 37v and the other of 11v in series .
i have one of these. not using it lately since refrigerator has already temperature sensor forpower down mechanism.
My timer has the display on and battery has power but power is not reaching the output when it is on not even the red led on it as if it was unplugged. I just read on on the screen. Is it definitely a broken relay?
Always Waiting For Your Videos 🙂.
Very interesting and informative! Thanks a lot.
How is the display connected ?
great video, thanks for sharing, and great English accent as well ✌️
The voltage dropper capacitor fails too if old device. If we let fall one of this devices the glass zener can crack also. It is a simple fix but normally people throw it away or go to warranty.
Plz can you tell me wich modification you did to the yellow multimiter to mesure the power consumption
danyk.cz/wmetr_en.html
@@DiodeGoneWild thx man
Thank you very much...... I hoped to find a circuit diagram and nearly gave up WELL DONE . My Zerer is s/c and nothing on it readable THANKS AGAIN
Why on earth does it switch Neutral wire, not Live one?! Is it a beginners trap?
In some countries the live wire is on the left and the neutral wire on the right, in other countries vice versa.
They switch the neutral because if the appliance that will be powered has a short between live and ground you will notice that at the moment you plug it in the timer not after several hour or days .
@@electronics-by-practice now I see, tnx!
Half of Europe doesn't even use polarized plugs (because it doesn't really offer any additional safety), there's no way to know which line in a device will be live. This device will be sold in many countries, with just the plug being exchanged (it is modular as you can see in the video).
French have phase on the right so it switches that. In the Czech Republic the neutral is on the right. Also they likely make it for other countries also with schuko type output. Those generally also have phase on a right. While schuko is not polarized most people would hook it pointing down.
Does it have Soft Starter function for handling current surg
I'd say that's why the inductive load is only 2amps maximum. No soft start.
No.
Which kind of multimeter you use for measuring power(watt)
so it draws less power relay is on... good to know about those zener based supplies
My on Or off not work
Which part need to change
Please tell me
Wouldn't it be better to lower the resistances in the divider for the battery? It would lower the power dicipation on the zener and also let the battery to charge up faster
I have same :) one is working (it's one year old turing fan in my room on for day and turning it off for night) one stopped working like 8 years ago after very long being unconected from socket ;( It's very old construction produced for today but i think very nice with very accurate clock (after 2 weeks it is synced with my phone in +- one second, after 2 weeks it's still one second)
Correct me if I'm wrong, but the zebra strip works because the conductors are smaller than the gaps between the pads, not the pads themselves.
Can we use SSR instead this relay?
I always click like button before watching your videos and i always wait for your upcoming videos regard from Pakistan
This device could be good to add custom electronics for domotics and take profit of the case and power pcb. I can't like your videos more, keep it on!
I have the same model,but when I leave it plugged in for longer then a day all display elements are lit up.You can't read the values on the display only under extreme angle.But the timer and relay function still work fine.What could cause this?
The display sees an overvoltage and so all segments are visible. The battery is charged all the time and when it wears out, it no longer pulls the voltage down. the voltage rises in the control circuitry, causing this symptom - inactive segments on the display are visible. Replace the battery or change the resistive divider ratio or put couple series diodes in parallel to the battery to clamp the voltage.
Nice, dodgy, super dodgy. New scale of batery charger electronics quality.
And let's not forget the "Dangeruuuus!" category. ;D
Nice teardown , is the random function active the relay only for the night time .
No series resistor with the zener. It was probably overdriven deep into the breakdown.
That's not how capacitive droppers work. The capacitor at the mains side limits the current. Adding resistors in series only wastes more power.
I noticed that to but there's a cap beside it limiting the current, but also could filter noise from the coil switching. But don't quote me on that!!!
I came hierrre for the k'aatt.....
Did you also find some of this stuff in the 'electric waste' bin at a big DIY store? Those are treasure troves I tell you! What good stuff people throw away...
I think use & throw electronic devices should be banned... All devices should be repairable by law. That will reduce E-waste & create new jobs for repair shops as well.
Some stores don't like people looking through those electronics bins. You can guess why I know.
eDoc2020 I know the feeling. My go to tactic is start speaking a neighboring country foreign language and feign ignorance.
would it be worth replacing the battery?
Tenhle mám taky a když jsem ho rozdělal, tak černota kolem té samé zenerky... Asi by bylo fajn vyměnit ji za větší
You said something like "I have one too and black spot is on the same place...
Changing this zener diode would be good"
?
PS. Translating by Pole who don't know Czech but our leanguges are a bit similar.
Já tam dávám 2x 24V výkonová ztráta se tak rozdělí.
A common problem with these if you leave them unplugged to long the battery goes flat & there's not enough charge current to get it working again, so I've had to take them apart & stick some current up the battery then they work fine again
Hello sir...sir 24v 4amp 100w switch mod supply transformer open and primary winding and secondery and feed back winding turn..count..
Nice information for technician
Isn't switching the neutral bad practice? For safety should you not break the hot?
Why does your cat eat plastic bag?
Many cats are attracted to the odor that plastic gives. Seen it many times.
Cat is just going out of plastic inside of it and wants to refill reserves...
Everybody knows cats are running on plastic bags and Christmas decorations, right???
i guess he is to poor to buy real real food for his cat LUL
I guess that crinkly plastic sounds fantastic if you have cat ears
Mine and my friend's cats also lick plastic bags
Hi, thanks a lot for share this info with all of us, very nice video.
question: (minute 10, schematic)
beteween diode bridge and Zener, is it missing a resistor?
if not, Zener will receive 100% DC voltage (310V DC) from bridge bridge and i guess it can´t work.
waiting for your comments.
best regards
Alfredo
ABolutly great explaination
Wow.. in happy for. At least u r getting some money from ur patreons.
Please tell me what damage the switch or the control circuit can suffer by using higher than 2Ampers of inductice load.
Atleast this lable explains what the meaning of the 10 (2) A on the other similar sockets, but not the why.
When the power is disconnected from an inductive load there is a large voltage spike that can cause the contacts of the relay to arc
Saar, have you made a video on dodgy electronic "mosquito repeller?"
Where are those plugs from?
He lives in the Czech Republic.
Danyk, how did you make the cheap yellow meter into a power meter????
danyk.cz/wmetr_en.html
I'd still change the battery in it, love the days of the week options. I could see that coming in handy. But why their using a 48V coil in the relay is stupid driving that zener to hard. Can anyone tell me why the inductive load is only 2amps?? Is it because of the digital components inside or just cheaping out on a decent cap for noise filtering .. or am I way off??? Anyone??
hi, the 48v coil is probably needed to move the heavy 32a contacts, if you had a 5v coil it would need about 1 amp to magnetically pull the contact spring over. It doesnt seem to have any snubber on the contact for inductive loads so saved a few cents, most people use timers for electric heaters or lights (resistive loads) but hardly ever used with things like washers with motors or pumps. i guess people who do that, buy a different timer or just take the risk that the contact will fail one day. The battery might be ok as the timer comes from the factory with the battery not charged and most still seem to work when you take them home.
0:57 I like how he's trying to show us the timer, and meanwhile, his cat is playing with a plastic bag in the background
Hello,AoA , I have somewhat same device , it's LCD display screen doesn't work some figures are missing, what to do.thanks
I have the same timer. Interestingly, I "bought" it in trash, too.
Mine after long time in drawer. Now completely dead. No display no clicking nothing. New AAA batteries.
Mine not possible to reset individual sets.
They should design it to short the relay coil to turn it off. This would reduce energy consumption if done properly.
No, that's not how a capacitive droppers work. They always provide a (pretty much) constant amount of current. The power consumption will always be the same, no matter what you do at the output.
@@superdau Current is nearly constant, but the circuit can lower the voltage to NiMH's 1,3V instead of running all the current through a 50V zener diode. Real power consumption will be then lowered to some 5% of the initial value. Apparent power will stay almost the same though.
@@k4be.
The current from mains is constant, not the output current. If you use less current on the output the voltage after the dropper will rise (up to mains voltage if none is used at all) and destroy the electronics, if you draw more current, the voltage will drop below what the electronics need.
@@superdau The output current (including the shunt regulator circuit) is equal to the mains current.
Imagine the relay being powered in series with the control electronics. These electronics will need to have their own shunt regulator to prevent overvoltage. Let's say the relay needs 10mA at 48V, and electronics have voltage drop of 1.5V. The relay would have a 51V zener diode across it, and the capacitive dropper circuit would be designed to a current of about 15mA to account for component and voltage tolerances. Thus, the power consumption of this circuit will be about 15mA*(51V+1.5V)=0.8W, with apparent power of 15mA*230V=3,45VA. Then, make it short the relay coil with a transistor, so the voltage on it will drop to nearly 0V. This will cause the capacitor current to increase a bit, say 1mA. Now, we have the power of 16mA*1.5V=24mW, that's 3% of the original value. This is not including the bleeder resistors and capacitor losses.
if the cat is not nice, we now have the famous laser😂😂😂😂
I have timer equal to that one. But the screen shows strange caracteres and the timer stop working :S
diodegonewild why not decap chip using accid?
Because it works. My guess is that it is a general purpose MCU with burnt-in program in ROM and built-in LCD interface.
Spálená zenerka je častá závada, já tam dávám 2x 24V
nice video
good video
Fun topic.
Tanks i have schéma for dimmer
Its well designed. Only now people will expect an easier interface probably through a Smartphone App.
I think there still are people who appreciate things that can be controlled without a smartphone and an app.
Varistor is not 470V, it's "varistor voltage", in reality, it's ~300AC or ~385DC (datasheet.lcsc [dot] com/szlcsc/VDR-VDR-14D470K_C283945.pdf)
It's used where you normally have at most 300VAC or 385VDC (it passes virtually no current at those voltages), but at 1mA it drops 470V and at 50A it drops 775V according to the datasheet.
@@DiodeGoneWild yep, I mean 470V varistor is the protection devide for 230AC, if V>300AV it starts conducting.
I just don't understand why did you write "varistor voltage" instead of the protection voltage
Would be illegal to sell in the UK and I expect most of the EU. In the UK we tend to have an earthed neutral which is why we are not allowed to have fuses in the neutral lines. As if the neutral fuse blows the internals of the device are still live and a safety hazarded.
Since half of Europe doesn't even use polarized plugs (because it doesn't really offer any additional safety), there's no way to know which line in a device will be live.
@@superdau We have our hand held all the the time in the UK, switched outlets, Live and neutral in the same place in all sockets, and oftern the neutal connected to the earth. Fuses in all 13A polarized plugs. We tend to have TN-S or TN-CS supplies where the neutral is earthed at the power transformer. Thanks for pointing out that Europe is different.
Typical mistake with "capacitor dropper" - when no payload on output, output must short! When relay not work, all relay current sent to small zener and overheat it. Another dumb mistake is using a serial regulator like 7805 (only a shunt regulator like tl431 must be used).
شكراً على هذا الفيديو الرائع ،ولكن لم افهم السبب عدم شحن البطارية ما هو المكون الذي يجب تغييره وشكرا
اريد جوابا من فضلكم .....
8:26 If says 年月日 which of course means year month day in Chinese :^)
This inefficient circuit with overheating zener is popular only because it's cheaper than two capacitors one of them is connected after relay.
Эта неэффективная схема с перегретым стабилитроном популярна только потому, что она дешевле, чем схема с двумя конденсаторами, один из которых подключён после реле.
It switches neutral but european plugs are reversible...
Not the French/Czech ones. It is designed for France, they have same plug but phase on the right.
Would have been smarter to short the relay and only have a 3v Zener in series connection. 15x less heat and power consumption.
I had to try that out. Turns out the 470 ohm resistor in series with the mains will now be the biggest consumer, at 300mW. Total consumption when the relay is off is 450mW and about 1.5W when it is on, depending on the relay coil. Only downside in my design: it needs 2 100V transistors. (1 PNP + 1 N-ch)
I will post a link to the circuit I made below.
In the following circuit, the 10mF (not µ) capacitor and the zener next to it models the battery. The resistor with inductor in series is the relay coil. The mosfet represents the timer's switch output.
www.falstad.com/circuit/circuitjs.html?ctz=CQAgzCAMB0l3AWAnC1b0DYQFZpLAgExLaRgYDsYShkAHDgjiAmAFABuOAjISNzR59ukJpH45xBceO7Qw9FBnx0U2Cggp8Y2NgGMQGMMPI4KWbqanRi6O0oCmAWgognxuaJpg6kDH8JkNgAnMwtBI2FBcU1INgBzEAo6JkIMJmTUugY4ghAALw4AewAbABcAQ3iHAB0ARzB5KH5oCm5WbEI6AS76bLBnV3E+RvZ8pJSQNIzJnqmC4vKq2ob5NgATQ2wLUwxtpL4+dYcAMwqAV3KNw2z+CNuteeOzy7LrvaxprZ3PkGeLq6bDC3L7AhhzI6nAFvADu3wONwYjzicI+U3SiPRYjYqOM-F2+0sWBRhjxczBd20bDKIDohNM3R+zSc3FpsCQGGB+HICGwSF8fCcMEgXQQYqQ3D2-P5YCo4LgONpkv4tCVWGRisZCMyCJJWu4nTVlKgmuVcx1cxJFsEFENlsVtr4jx1GtRIIxWmGGLitCQSTtNsNXxksHgrMatG2tm6SF5Rh8-AdQY9k2DbF9IBoskEWaxzWFrOFdB8xmy3S0xew3Fc3BCRrmZeNMQoVtTGMbabhnrzjrzVtVzsNrsxzoHVLyhVKlWq9W9LTaHS6PV8ZYGLmafHSbHGvfNQ8OCyny1nCDrdKZuaJzTAChJl8EIgQ2apcNzXxQh29bBO-FEwwQDAflMAHgMIUA2IqQGEHiQFXrkTCTksM51HI2DNHIC5gJ0Ma9Kugwbi0ujjB27a3BCh5ISsqGau6TBvl+cKNnM94vpmqpXrBVhsCUExMFe1raOBkCWPAoliXAhahrK2AIOkBqBJQexYRQdYuk6sxWFMtBxKE574lgenIr+ommuqfCGax3Z7lEVIAM6-k+xqPv+OTNGcJS2Q4dbqBYoiksIfmyOJio+Q5YT6SauIBUwkQRSSoVzFWNkmvZSVhQlgVuRUHleUU16CbQVB+ukIYFdebB5VITpTJAGiuCV4GFhIT4VSwoFJDVdXMMKaGsn1Ni6HlxDta4hWaN1oZwEg5hRr1EiDVMEB4sMtXjTABoYIQaEFlt8yHEtrWWCNnXjYQ0DbdA4YSMK8DmMQ1C8mAvALSM1VjaNIasnxNVsEAA
That's not how a capacitive droppers work. They always provide a (pretty much) constant amount of current The power consumption will always be the same, no matter what you do at the output.
@@superdau Wrong. Yes, the current is roughly constant. But the power dissipation depends on the voltage drop across the RESISTIVE elements in the circuit. If you short-circuit a resistive element in the circuit, there is no voltage across that element, meaning zero power dissipation. That's how you can save power in a capacitive dropper circuit.
Think of a capacitor alone connected across mains. It only draws reactive current, there is no power dissipation. If you add a resistor in series, it forms a complex voltage divider based on the impedance, and the part across the resistor generates heat.
Back to normal devices...Cool..Wow Self Repairing Devices...lol
New Video😃😃😃
Prohodit pravou a levou zdířku, aby byla spínaná fáze, je zřejmě pro výrobce příliš náročné.
Cutting the neutral is dangerous with mains voltage. You end up becoming the path to earth; probably best to change the switching polarity IMO mate.
Indeed, I would like if they switch the live, or both live and neutral!
But we can't expect that much from the product probably.
Half of Europe isn't using polarized plugs, so you don't know which wire is live and which is neutral when plugging something in. It doesn't offer any additional safety, as does switching live. You could always have a break in the neutral wire somewhere, making a device not work but be "live".
It's not possible to rely on that anyway. Polarity in the socket can be reversed by some dumbass. Only reliable way is to switch both wires.
Make a vacum tube tesla coil pls pls
Its not too safety when live and ground is going directly from plug to socket 🤔⚠
Good good
Hello i think about making a tesla coil In future for my entertainment
Using a flyback driver
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👍👍😊
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hug the cat
nice box for usb chargers lol
Timeeerrr.
It was made in China 🤷🏻♂️
But of course, everything is made in China. Including the laptop I'm watching this video on.
@@michaelturner4457i think she is chinese.
Soo toudeey ai haf a caaaat
Im i first? 🤪
When are you gonna do a face reveal?
Please brother try to improve your accent
Everyone here knows what I'm talking about