Hi David, so good tips for all GF users to review. I've been brewing since Gen 1 of GF was first released in the US. I still use the same one (about 1/3 of the time) and want to pass along a new tip- one you should add imo! :) It relates to grain crush and your solid comment about grain bits, this always happens and I end up filtering them out on the back end when I transfer to the fv. Now, however, I use a fine small mesh scoop and as it comes to boil, I scoop until no more come out. The one thing to be aware of, don't do this before you add in your first hop addition! I like my hops to run free (used both bags and hop spider in the past) so if I am to add at start of boil, I wait until this step is done, it's a nice little fine tune step that I enjoy and I like seeing none when I transfer to the FV. Cheers!
I've watched quite a few of your clips now and I have to say I find them very informative and somewhat inspirational. So much so I've advanced from kit brewing to all grain brewing. Looking forward to your next video.
Just to mention David and I'm sure you already know this..... one of the things I do when cleaning the GF is to remove the grain basket 'holder', the metal piece onto which the grain basket sits during the sparge. I then give the groove it sits in a right good rinse and clean. Just in the interest in doing a thorough clean but I'm sure it's not necessary every brew. Keep the videos coming and I'd be interested to know which brewery you work for over there in beautiful Norway. I've been to Lillestrom and Oslo and look forward to returning soon, maybe for the Stavangar beer festival.
+Gavin Devlin Yes, to be honest there are several things like this that I wish I had remembered to add into this video! I am no longer working within brewing. I decided to move into different aspects of the industry. Both the Stavanger and Bergen beer festivals are fun but very pricey!!
David Heath the whole country is 😀 me and the other half went to some of the craft beer bars in Oslo and I came home and made a SMaSH which was cheaper to buy the grains and yeast than the cost of that pint.
Thank you so much for sharing these videos, David! They're really helpful. Regarding tip #5 Stuck sparge (or actually any sparge): why would you want to replace the top plate? Isn't it always better to stir in your grains while sparge? And another thing: why not add all the sparge water at the same time? It would build up a higher pressure and thereby get more things out the grains? (It's theoretical questions and I have actually never tried it myself).
+Sune Faurschou The top plate will help even out the sparge water. Sparging gradually like I suggest will give a better end result for sure. Test it with your own brews and you will see what I mean.
Thanks mate! I trust completely your judgement. No need to plan to fail. That's why I asked :-) My Breakfast Stout looks great - maybe I'll be ready for your Copenhagen visit next month! (Yes; I'm stalking you muahaha! :-D).
+Sune Faurschou The thing with brewing is that there are so many different opinions out there. I think its useful to try out the various ways of doing each part to make your choices by experience, this is what I have done at least :)
I've been using the GF for about a year now and for the most part happy with one exception. My efficiency is almost always low and recently missed by 18 points (expected OG 1.081 and got 1.063). When putting in the grains I'm careful to go slow and stir so as not to get any dough balls. My sparge is the pour in method a quart at a time. It seems to go way too fast however so possibly the grain isn't fine enough? I crush my grains at the homebrew store and will check the settings next time. If the grains are within acceptable tolerance what might be the problem for constantly missing OG?
Hi Rick, yes it sounds like your grain crush needs to be finer. This will solve the efficiency and slow your sparge down further increasing efficiency.
Thanks for these great tips, much appreciated. Couple questions if you have the time: 1 What kind of pump are you using to recirculate starsan that suits the fitting for the chiller? 2 Do you ever find you dislodge the hop filter while whirlpooling? Or is your mesh wrap holding that in place for that purpose? Thanks again and keep them coming!
+drock Hey :) 1) I usually just dump 10L of starsan in the gf and recirculate that way but most fish tank pumps should work, then you don't need as much Starsan. Worst scenario use reducer fittings 2) I have a circlip around the filter to hold it on. Nothing gets it off now. Happened to me once, then I fixed with this solution:)
Hi David! Great content here(and everywhere else you post!) your thrumometer...is it 1/2 or 3/8 for the wort chiller? I havent opened my GF box yet and want to be ready! thx
Great tips, I really enjoy your videos. I don't know if you have previously covered this, but what is your opinion on using cold water (or at least room temperature) sparging water?
+Niels Henriksen Cold water sparging has been proven to have no difference. The thing is though it will slow your boil time down, so for that reason alone I sparge with 75 deg c water. Hope this helps :)
Love your videos, one question, I have just bought an Monster Mill MM2, and was wondering if you have a recomended grain-cruch for the grainfather, and how fast/slow I should run the mill. Cheers Vidar!
Great video Dave. So I see you recommend Starsan every 3-4 brews for the CFC. Do you then just use PBW followed by water on GF after brewing? And then Starsan every ~4th brew?
One comment on PH.. I think it was number 13. A brewer needs to be concerned with the PH of the mash, not the strike water... I think that is what you meant, but it was a little confusing to me. The composition of the grist can have wide impact on the mash PH. I usually strive to target my mash PH to 5.2 to 5.4 when calculating the salts/acid to add, keeping them to a minimum, and not go overboard trying to hit 5.2.
Hey David! I just brewed my first batch with all all in one system and I had a couple problems First I got some bad scorching during the nagging process which caused the dry error and this may be due to either me changing the power to 3kW to reach mash out temp or it could be that the grain was weird(i had 1.5 kg of flaked grains) Then at the end of the whole process it took me a very long timer to chill the wort down with the immersion chiller but I still only reached 24C and used something like 100 litres of water Do you have any suggestion for a poor noob like myself? Thank you
+Kendal Saulsberry I don't ever use Beersmith for volumes, its just too inaccurate. I use the Gf connect app for that. I do use Beersmith but only because I have been using it since its start and have alot of recipes stored in it. I now transfer them over to the Gf recipe tools for easy syncing to the connect app. Hope this helps:)
+Kendal Saulsberry Not quite but coupled with the recipe creator it comes close enough for most homebrewers. Beersmith has alot of features that many will never use.
Point 5, Be VERY CAREFUL doing this as I had the grain basket fall back into the boiler once. Which resulted in a big fountain of hot wort splashing all over me. Luckily I had a few layers of clothes on and it didn't get to my skin! It did get through my shoe and burnt my toes tho. So slow and steady with trying to mix the mash! 😃
First run on GF30, stuck sparge, stirred and bottom dropped out. Intend to take different action next time as I dislike scrubbing sugary grains off the ceilings.
Just brewed a 12 L batch of your Belgian Dark Strong Ale recipe...I use a three wheel stand designed for greenhouse plants to hold my grainfather... Easy access to the reset switch..Just in case of :-)
David, I have been looking to get a all in one electric brew system. I know all the prices of all of them. the Grainfather cost the most, and the other one's are half the price. I want to buy a grainfather, but i could save money on one of the others. Can you help me make the right decision.
+DANIEL SMITH There are more expensive versions also. The GF is in the middle. Alot of those cheap models are not even CE approved. Retailers get alot of returns on these also. In every comparison test that I have seen the GF always comes on top. A cheap system is often going to be a false economy. The other issue is how the temperature is always up and down continuously. I would consider your choice carefully for sure!
Hi David, so good tips for all GF users to review. I've been brewing since Gen 1 of GF was first released in the US. I still use the same one (about 1/3 of the time) and want to pass along a new tip- one you should add imo! :) It relates to grain crush and your solid comment about grain bits, this always happens and I end up filtering them out on the back end when I transfer to the fv. Now, however, I use a fine small mesh scoop and as it comes to boil, I scoop until no more come out. The one thing to be aware of, don't do this before you add in your first hop addition! I like my hops to run free (used both bags and hop spider in the past) so if I am to add at start of boil, I wait until this step is done, it's a nice little fine tune step that I enjoy and I like seeing none when I transfer to the FV. Cheers!
Great stuff Ken, many thanks 🍻🍻🍻
What a great presentation
Thank you :)
I've watched quite a few of your clips now and I have to say I find them very informative and somewhat inspirational. So much so I've advanced from kit brewing to all grain brewing. Looking forward to your next video.
+bunnyhead17 That's awesome to hear, plenty more coming:)
Hi David, thanks for your great videos. I have enjoyed this hobby far more by learning from your channel.
+noneMan1 Thats fantastic to hear, thank you :)
Both useful and helpful David. Thank you - found some new angles to concentrate on.
+Peter Scandlyn Great to hear Peter :)
Just to mention David and I'm sure you already know this..... one of the things I do when cleaning the GF is to remove the grain basket 'holder', the metal piece onto which the grain basket sits during the sparge. I then give the groove it sits in a right good rinse and clean. Just in the interest in doing a thorough clean but I'm sure it's not necessary every brew. Keep the videos coming and I'd be interested to know which brewery you work for over there in beautiful Norway. I've been to Lillestrom and Oslo and look forward to returning soon, maybe for the Stavangar beer festival.
+Gavin Devlin Yes, to be honest there are several things like this that I wish I had remembered to add into this video! I am no longer working within brewing. I decided to move into different aspects of the industry. Both the Stavanger and Bergen beer festivals are fun but very pricey!!
David Heath the whole country is 😀 me and the other half went to some of the craft beer bars in Oslo and I came home and made a SMaSH which was cheaper to buy the grains and yeast than the cost of that pint.
Gavin Devlin haha so true :)
+Gavin Devlin Sounds good to me Gavin. Smash beers can really hit the spot!
Always great tips! So keep them coming David :-)
Thank you! I sure will :)
Thank you so much for sharing these videos, David! They're really helpful.
Regarding tip #5 Stuck sparge (or actually any sparge): why would you want to replace the top plate? Isn't it always better to stir in your grains while sparge? And another thing: why not add all the sparge water at the same time? It would build up a higher pressure and thereby get more things out the grains? (It's theoretical questions and I have actually never tried it myself).
+Sune Faurschou The top plate will help even out the sparge water. Sparging gradually like I suggest will give a better end result for sure. Test it with your own brews and you will see what I mean.
Thanks mate! I trust completely your judgement. No need to plan to fail. That's why I asked :-) My Breakfast Stout looks great - maybe I'll be ready for your Copenhagen visit next month! (Yes; I'm stalking you muahaha! :-D).
+Sune Faurschou The thing with brewing is that there are so many different opinions out there. I think its useful to try out the various ways of doing each part to make your choices by experience, this is what I have done at least :)
Another good 1 David :) I have made sure to mention your tutorials/hints & tips on the Norbrygg forums.
+Jølle Great, thank you :)
Thank you David, very helpful as usual Mate, cheers Mike.
+Hardyards brewers 1 Great stuff :)
Thank you again David, very informative.
+Pete's Ale House Great, thank you :)
Great update with some cracking tips thanks for sharing. Cheers
+Steve Moulson Thanks alot Steve, great to hear :)
I've been using the GF for about a year now and for the most part happy with one exception. My efficiency is almost always low and recently missed by 18 points (expected OG 1.081 and got 1.063). When putting in the grains I'm careful to go slow and stir so as not to get any dough balls. My sparge is the pour in method a quart at a time. It seems to go way too fast however so possibly the grain isn't fine enough? I crush my grains at the homebrew store and will check the settings next time. If the grains are within acceptable tolerance what might be the problem for constantly missing OG?
Hi Rick, yes it sounds like your grain crush needs to be finer. This will solve the efficiency and slow your sparge down further increasing efficiency.
I crush at 1.45. Never had a stuck sparge and always hit my target.
🍻🍻🍻
Great video. cheers!
+Beer By The Numbers Glad you liked it :)
Thanks for these great tips, much appreciated. Couple questions if you have the time:
1 What kind of pump are you using to recirculate starsan that suits the fitting for the chiller?
2 Do you ever find you dislodge the hop filter while whirlpooling? Or is your mesh wrap holding that in place for that purpose?
Thanks again and keep them coming!
+drock Hey :) 1) I usually just dump 10L of starsan in the gf and recirculate that way but most fish tank pumps should work, then you don't need as much Starsan. Worst scenario use reducer fittings 2) I have a circlip around the filter to hold it on. Nothing gets it off now. Happened to me once, then I fixed with this solution:)
great video again with some top tips 🍺
+victor castle Thank you, thats great to hear :)
Some nice tips there. I totally agree about the ball/spring. It's there for a reason.
+wrongway2001 Good to hear :) Beer burns are still burns after all:)
Great Stuff!! Thanks for the information!
+TrevMc77 Glad you enjoyed it :)
Good tips as always! Am I missing something here? Why don't you just circulate starsan with the grainfather instead of an external pump?
+MortnHoltberget You can do it either way but in a bucket you need less at once :)
Hi David! Great content here(and everywhere else you post!) your thrumometer...is it 1/2 or 3/8 for the wort chiller? I havent opened my GF box yet and want to be ready! thx
Many thanks Paul. You need the 3/8" version for use with the Grainfather.
Great tips, I really enjoy your videos. I don't know if you have previously covered this, but what is your opinion on using cold water (or at least room temperature) sparging water?
+Niels Henriksen Cold water sparging has been proven to have no difference. The thing is though it will slow your boil time down, so for that reason alone I sparge with 75 deg c water. Hope this helps :)
Love your videos, one question, I have just bought an Monster Mill MM2, and was wondering if you have a recomended grain-cruch for the grainfather, and how fast/slow I should run the mill.
Cheers Vidar!
Hi Vidar and thank you :) A credit card sized gap will work well. A steady medium pace is ideal. Too fast can lead to a finer crush.
Thanks... Then I will try that. How is your Norwegian coming along? "Ha en flott dag!"
Not bad :) Tusen takk :)
Great video Dave. So I see you recommend Starsan every 3-4 brews for the CFC. Do you then just use PBW followed by water on GF after brewing? And then Starsan every ~4th brew?
+Kevin Dillon Yes :)
One comment on PH.. I think it was number 13. A brewer needs to be concerned with the PH of the mash, not the strike water... I think that is what you meant, but it was a little confusing to me. The composition of the grist can have wide impact on the mash PH. I usually strive to target my mash PH to 5.2 to 5.4 when calculating the salts/acid to add, keeping them to a minimum, and not go overboard trying to hit 5.2.
Yes good point! Thank you :)
Hey David! I just brewed my first batch with all all in one system and I had a couple problems
First I got some bad scorching during the nagging process which caused the dry error and this may be due to either me changing the power to 3kW to reach mash out temp or it could be that the grain was weird(i had 1.5 kg of flaked grains)
Then at the end of the whole process it took me a very long timer to chill the wort down with the immersion chiller but I still only reached 24C and used something like 100 litres of water
Do you have any suggestion for a poor noob like myself? Thank you
🍻🍻🍻
can you show how you set up your grainfather and BrewSmith like the equipment profile
+Kendal Saulsberry I don't ever use Beersmith for volumes, its just too inaccurate. I use the Gf connect app for that. I do use Beersmith but only because I have been using it since its start and have alot of recipes stored in it. I now transfer them over to the Gf recipe tools for easy syncing to the connect app. Hope this helps:)
David Heath does the grainfather app do the same thing as a brew Smith app
+Kendal Saulsberry Not quite but coupled with the recipe creator it comes close enough for most homebrewers. Beersmith has alot of features that many will never use.
Point 5, Be VERY CAREFUL doing this as I had the grain basket fall back into the boiler once. Which resulted in a big fountain of hot wort splashing all over me. Luckily I had a few layers of clothes on and it didn't get to my skin! It did get through my shoe and burnt my toes tho. So slow and steady with trying to mix the mash! 😃
+ClevoXC Oh yes for sure! Safety always comes first.
ClevoXC
Yup ,done that !
First run on GF30, stuck sparge, stirred and bottom dropped out. Intend to take different action next time as I dislike scrubbing sugary grains off the ceilings.
Graincrush is key :) Like all all in one systems you will want a less fine crush compared to BIAB.
Am I able to search Grainfather recipe app for your recipes or for others by the creators name?
Hi Ryan, The easiest way is to search using my name.
David Heath thank you so much. Your videos are very informative. Keep them coming.
Thank you Ryan, more coming soon! :)
helpfull cheers !
+Eric Werz Thats always good to hear :)
Just brewed a 12 L batch of your Belgian Dark Strong Ale recipe...I use a three wheel stand designed for greenhouse plants to hold my grainfather... Easy access to the reset switch..Just in case of :-)
Eric Werz Great :) That takes a while to condition but the wait will be worth it for sure :)
do i need to retain the ball and spring when upgrading to camlocks
I've kept hold of mine for safekeeping but essentially they are not used anymore.
David, I have been looking to get a all in one electric brew system. I know all the prices of all of them. the Grainfather cost the most, and the other one's are half the price. I want to buy a grainfather, but i could save money on one of the others. Can you help me make the right decision.
Braumeister must have dropped in price? Remarkable....
Sorry to pop in there David :-)
I live in the USA. Iowa to be more precise. they are still USD 1300.00 here.. Thankyou for your help Peter.
+Peter Scandlyn No problem!
+DANIEL SMITH There are more expensive versions also. The GF is in the middle. Alot of those cheap models are not even CE approved. Retailers get alot of returns on these also. In every comparison test that I have seen the GF always comes on top. A cheap system is often going to be a false economy. The other issue is how the temperature is always up and down continuously. I would consider your choice carefully for sure!
Thank you David. I appreciate the good advice. I will save my pennies up for a Grainfather.