Thanks for this video. I just took out the MCU on a 2013 Model S P85 I have owned from new for 7 years. A tip for others watching, on the earliest Model S vehicles you do not need to take out the frunk tub. Disconnecting the 12 volt is in the same place as the main power disconnect.
About to do this on my March 2015 Model S. I have the extra storage space in the rear of the front trunk. Is that what you mean by not having to take out the frunk tub?
I just swapped out my MCU. My MCU turns on and works but now my IC wont turn on. Hopefully a plug is loose. Ill try again. Also my car wont turn on and i tried pressing the brakes. Any thoughts? Ty
Hell of a video, thank you. Have a faulty hazard switch and was looking for information on how to change it. After scrolling through dozens of videos with no luck I found this one. Overkill for what I need but pointed me in all the right directions. Maybe add a tag to it regarding hazard light switch repair and glovebox switch repair. Thanks again. Subscribed.
Hey Michael... I was told my hazard switch is bad too. Been searching everywhere as well till this video and your comment. Can I ask if you had to pull the MCU out to get to the back side of the switch and any screws to replace it or was there a different way? Thanks!
@@danielr.7658 would you believe my switch wasn't bad at all! A few days later I was cleaning the car and pushed against the switch and it activated. It seems to be off centre and catching the dash trim every 4th or 5th time it's activated. A swift smack to the dash usually makes it pop back out so in typical man style - I've left well enough alone. 😁 To answer your other question, judging by this video, it appears there are screws on the rear that can only be accessed by removing the entire MCU. Please update if you go for it as I may have to do that switch at some point anyway.
@@mkmg76 Well, you are lucky. I'm happy to hear you didn't have to go through ripping the dash apart. Thank you for the reply! I have tried to fiddle with the switch and it acts/feels like it should work, but doesn't. Maybe I'll try the "Smack" method :). I do agree, it appears I would need to tear into the dash and at least extend the MCU forward to get to what looks like screws on the back side of the unit. I'm still trying to troubleshoot as much as possible before attempting this project. I will definitely keep you and TH-cam updated. Thanks again!!!
Wow you can tell this is not the first time you've done this but how the hell do you keep track of all those screws what's your system great video great presentation and what a pro I'm so impressed if I ever had to do this I take plenty of pictures
Nice video. Curious if you’ve tried using a telescoping magnet to catch the shims before they fall behind the MCU and into the abyss. Also, tape the shims before installing the MCU and they will be there ready for you. An air pump wedge works as well for lifting and holding the dash pad up out of the way.
Man if only they had designed the bezel to be a bit wider and would just snap off exposing the mounting bolts. Then the screen could be removed without taking the whole dash apart......
Thanks for the instruction. I need to replace my leaking screen, and am trying to decide whether this is a DIY job. Tesla quoted $2600, and I had to come in to the service center. I am also confused about what parts I will need for my 2013 MS.
U Tubota send us an email. We can get you just the touchscreen. It’s only 8 more screws and some ribbon connectors past what is shown in the video. Info@electrifiedgarage.com
Great video but can I recommend a 15 second outro asking to click like and subscribe, it gives me time to click on the thumbs up before youtube puts me straight to the next video on autoplay. Great work guys!
Awesome video, thank you. I'm not doing the work myself but I wanted to see what was involved. Honest question: how do you keep track of what screw goes with what part?
Thanks for this video. This great content to share for us DIY'ers. i know every tech has their own method, but i watched 2 diff Tesla (ranger) guys take off 1/2 less pieces )namely the drivers side. They also didn't completely pop the dash. Just lifted it w/a bag. Have you ever watched others to see if there could be more simplification in your workflow?
Ryan Robertson the process we showed makes it the least likely method for damaging anything. Shortcuts that end up breaking or scratching things aren’t worth doing in our opinion. Then you’re doing the job twice to replace the things you damaged. For example if you don’t undo the airbag it puts a lot of strain on the aluminum trim on the dash pad. The aluminum isn’t available separately so if you bend or crease it you have to do the entire pad. In the early days this was $3k+ to replace. It’s come down under $1k now but still is an expensive item to break. If you damage the dash trim pieces they’re not available separately so you have to source a used one or pay for an entire set. Yes you’re right you could take apart less but is the risk worth the reward.... the odds aren’t in your favor and would immediately negate doing it yourself vs having a professional do it in terms of costs.
@@ElectrifiedGarage I seem to remember a video by Rich that had him breaking the dash piece adjacent to the left side of the screen. I think your advice is sound, and since if you DIY, then you are not paying by the hour: safety is the best bet.
I have got 2013 tesla model s it has no mcu and cluster.. I have got used mcu from a salvage car installed but only backup camera working on the screen no touch no other taps what should I do if you have any ideas
Great video this is what TH-cam is all about. I plan on getting the mcu1 upgrade and want xn radio. Can you tell us where the radio tuner module is? Would like to add it if tesla won't. Thanks
Technoz Ski if you do their upgrade you’ll lose that option. It’s internal to the MCU and not something you could add after the fact. So you’ll need to make a judgement call as to what’s more important. The infotainment upgrade or your XM.
@@ElectrifiedGarage thank you for clarifying infotainment it is. I heard AP2 cars are not getting the black/white cameras replaced. Do you have any intel if that's true?
I'm swapping out the dash pad on 2015 MS. Quick question, if I followed all of your steps in your video through your video up to 5:47, would the dash pad at that point be ready for removal and simply pop off or are there any other screws that I need to remove to accomplish this. Thanks.
If I want to put a mcu2 diy would I need to reprogram it ? How would I do that if I buy a used one. Na did I wanted to just replace my mcu1 with another mcu1 don’t I need to program it ? Or somthing?
@ElectrifiedGarage is it possible to replace mcu1 with used mcu2 from wrecked vehicle? If so, how do you register the new mcu2 so your car and Tesla recognize it?
I have a question. My MCU is no longer working and Tesla isn't fixing them, so I have a car that is not working at all. If I got an MCU from eBay, would that void my warranty? Would my car still work? Could I face any repercussions for doing so?
No you can't not just install a MCU and go. Even if its another MCU1 you still have to move some files from your old one to the replacement. What is not working? Have you tried a soft reset? And you can have your original MCU fixed and sent back to you aswell.
Hi thanks for this great content awesome job I have a question do I need to program the MCU2 installed in the car or not I can buy any MCU and installing and they should work
cartech ga we can do a 1 for 1 swap. Retrofitting MCU2 is not cost effective. Hardware alone is $4500+. Tesla’s plan to offer it is the only realistic option.
@@Matthewjo22 You would have to send us your MCU and we will fix the tegra board in it and then send it back to you already programmed for the card. Please email us info@electrifiedgarage.com for more information.
Negative, that is the micro SD card for the Navigation maps, the SIM card it internal of the MCU on the Modem board. It is replaceable but the unit has to come apart. On the MCU 2 it is accessible from the outside.
Do you have any idea if the warranty replacement of the 8GB eMMC replacement with the 64GB eMMC will require a complete MCU replacement/upgrade? Or is the eMMC a component of the MCU that can be individually removed and replaced? Pardon if not using the exact correct terminology. I'm not a smart man lol.
The MCU is coded to the vehicle and has all of the important info so you cant just swap it, it needs data extraction from the original unit to be put back in the replacement unit.
Is this just plug and play? No de pairing or programming to the car ? Where does the car ID come from? ….While that’s relatively easy to remove, I guess you can see why Tesla wanted to simplify that dash for production of later models.
let me get this straight, What I'm seeing is I'm gonna have to dissemble the whole car to change my mcu? 🤔 Where can i buy the latest mcu for 06/2017 Model S running windows 95 (MCU1)?🙂
Have you tried working on a Tesla that is going to be shipped out of the US? If yes, any video on how you changed the SIM card of the Tesla MCU? And if the MCU is capable of using different SIM card carriers? Does the GPS and Navigation work outside the United States? I'm referring to all USDM Teslas sent outside US. TIA foe the answer. 👍👍👍
So the short answer....yes.. There is a SIM, it is replaceable, you do have to remove the MCU, disassemble unit to reach the card. However... the GPS- there is a region code for the maps, if it leaves the region the maps will not download unless that is changed.
@@ElectrifiedGarage oh...okay.. So if I'm going to send a Tesla Model X over here in the Philippines, my car is not connected to the mothership and is Navigation-less.. But will it update with Wi-Fi connection Software-wise? I just find it a bit weird that the Navigation won't update as it is Google-based even if you connect it to the internet via Wi-Fi.
I had my 4/2016 Model S with 64K mi screen go black two days ago. There was no way I could re-boot it so I took it to Tesla service today. The said a rebuilt/exchange MCU was $1146 installed. They said I could have the HW2 Infotainment upgrade for $2250 and I told them to go ahead with that. Awhile later they said they couldn't do the upgrade only the exchange because my S didn't have electric trunk lifts and they weren't allowed to do the infotainment update on my car as the version for my car was not available. I wonder if I try to read the chip and do the BGA soldering and fail if they would know the difference. At this point I am waiting to see if they can restore the file system and bring it back to life without spending > $1000. For over two years I have been complaining that the web browser worked when I got the car, then it stopped playing my USB drive, weeks after that it would not re-boot until I removed the USB and now it just plain will not boot. I was surprised however that the autopilot worked perfectly on the way to Tesla service with the black screen.
They restored the system (I think replaced corrupted files) for $200 and it worked for a couple of months like it hadn't for over two years. The other day it wouldn't play music so I did the two button salute and it went black. Now I have no idea what they are going to do, I CANNOT SPEAK TO ANYONE AT TESLA BUT A COMPUTER! I used the app and the earliest appointment is in almost a month. I am sure they will not have the part when I bring my car. WHAT A HASSLE!
@@delschier1419 Wow. So far my 2015 P85D has only had a failed door handle after 160k km. Service Center over here has been pretty nice as well. Considdered going 3rd party to get it fixed?
There is a guy on ebay that can pull your files from your existing MCU unit and send them to you. So you could buy a used one and have your files moved over to the used replacement one.
My 2015 Tesla Model S has an MCU1 that can't handle the new software. Tesla service confirmed it, but said I have to pay for the upgrade. WTF? An MCU error is a recall, no matter if it's the eMMC or software obsolescence, right? ugh... small claims court here I come.
@@ElectrifiedGarage can you please make videos around replacing suspension components? Also I would like to see how you do door alignments etc? Thank you very much for all the hard work.
awesome video guys :) please if you have a amazon affiliate account post links for people to buy tool and drill bit etc. and u will get back something :)
I paid Tesla service $175 to see if my EMMc chip was actually bad and they gave the car back with with corrupted files repaired and the MCU working like new but that only lasted about two months. A month ago the music stopped playing and I did the two button salute and it went black and stayed black. I scheduled service but that was a month out. They were supposed to call when they had the part, a replacement Tegra board. They don't want to talk on the phone but with great difficulty I got a service guy to call. A person from my local service assured me I could bring it in sooner and that he would call when the part came in. He never called! I texted them on the appointment date and said I was not bringing the car unless they had the part. The guy on the phone said they would fix it while I waited but when I got there they said they would let me know when it would be done and the guy didn't seem to know if they did or did not have the part. Now they say it will be there for a week and it is cued for service, whatever that means. The good news is now they want $310 labor & parts instead of $1146. The guy on the phone said it would get a new 64 GB chip, but they guy there said I would get exactly what I had so looks like $300 every 4 yrs. I don't know what I am getting except the service guy said I would have a 1 yr warranty on the repair; I doubt in writing.
Send the MCU to Electrified Garage, we can do it and send it back, we use commercial grade memory that wont fail on you. Email - info@electrifiedgarage.com for details.
Used to be $2,300 for Tesla to replace a MCU1 with another MCU1 (parts+labor). But now that the MCU2 retrofit is available for some MCU1 cars I've heard the price for MCU1 has dropped to $1,300 installed.
@@markusstrobl1067 $1300 is just the part. Comes out to 1750ish after labor/fees.. I ended up sending it to a guy in CA from the Tesla motors club forum, 1/3rd the cost of Tesla for a much faster, 4x larger, quality chip. I can tell it's much smoother than it ever had been before
@@fabianhernandez1734 Thanks for the info on price. My 2013 is still on the original MCU so I'm expecting a failure sooner rather than later. An advantage to having Tesla do it is they do give a 4 year warranty on replacement MCUs.
@@markusstrobl1067 Markus Strobl I thought about it too but from reading the forums a ton, for $1700 Tesla gives you a "remanufactured MCU" with the same 8gb emmc chip that has an unknown amount of life left that will fail again like the original. Some had the Tesla refab MCU fail months later. I prefered having the 32gb swissbit chip running in 16gb endurance mode that should last the life of the car for $1200 less(they can also upgrade to LTE for a small fee). If you have yellowing screen border Tesla option might be worth it since you get a new screen, probably LTE, and no car dismantling.
@@fabianhernandez1734 Yep. Decisions, decisions... never easy, is it? Were you able to charge the car while your Tegra board was being repaired? I know it will drive, but I'm unclear if it will charge. Some say it does, some say it doesn't.
If there was an award for speediest MCU install. My dude right here would have it.
Thanks for this video. I just took out the MCU on a 2013 Model S P85 I have owned from new for 7 years. A tip for others watching, on the earliest Model S vehicles you do not need to take out the frunk tub. Disconnecting the 12 volt is in the same place as the main power disconnect.
Good to know !
About to do this on my March 2015 Model S. I have the extra storage space in the rear of the front trunk. Is that what you mean by not having to take out the frunk tub?
@@skyace888 no before 2015 the battery is in the top left by passenger under the fuse box. Ours "2015" is just like this one in the video.
I just swapped out my MCU. My MCU turns on and works but now my IC wont turn on. Hopefully a plug is loose. Ill try again. Also my car wont turn on and i tried pressing the brakes. Any thoughts? Ty
Not necessary just pull out fuse #51 of 20 amps this will shut off mcu power
Great video. I don't have the cajones to swap out and MCU myself, but I did learn a lot seeing how everything was put together. Thanks.
This is the channel we need.
This guy is the tech that Gotham needs, but the tech Gotham doesn’t deserve.
Great Video. Thank you. Tesla Service Center damaged my installing the MCU upgrade. They should have watched this video first.
Fascinating. Super efficient work. Using the power screwdriver to run the tub gasket over the carpet…I did not see that coming!
Not only did the amazing tech do this hard work swapping out the MCU, he did it while holding a camera.......impressive!
the GoPro was strapped to his head.
Hell of a video, thank you. Have a faulty hazard switch and was looking for information on how to change it. After scrolling through dozens of videos with no luck I found this one. Overkill for what I need but pointed me in all the right directions. Maybe add a tag to it regarding hazard light switch repair and glovebox switch repair.
Thanks again.
Subscribed.
Hey Michael... I was told my hazard switch is bad too. Been searching everywhere as well till this video and your comment. Can I ask if you had to pull the MCU out to get to the back side of the switch and any screws to replace it or was there a different way? Thanks!
@@danielr.7658 would you believe my switch wasn't bad at all! A few days later I was cleaning the car and pushed against the switch and it activated. It seems to be off centre and catching the dash trim every 4th or 5th time it's activated. A swift smack to the dash usually makes it pop back out so in typical man style - I've left well enough alone. 😁
To answer your other question, judging by this video, it appears there are screws on the rear that can only be accessed by removing the entire MCU.
Please update if you go for it as I may have to do that switch at some point anyway.
@@mkmg76 Well, you are lucky. I'm happy to hear you didn't have to go through ripping the dash apart. Thank you for the reply! I have tried to fiddle with the switch and it acts/feels like it should work, but doesn't. Maybe I'll try the "Smack" method :). I do agree, it appears I would need to tear into the dash and at least extend the MCU forward to get to what looks like screws on the back side of the unit. I'm still trying to troubleshoot as much as possible before attempting this project. I will definitely keep you and TH-cam updated. Thanks again!!!
Great video and I'm having Tesla swap out the MCU and the screen next week. Good to see what happens for $2,500!
Top Class, technician, liking your method and skill. Very educational thank you,
One big piece of LEGO ..... i am always afraid of breaking stuff, but it seems to be rather solid
One of the best tesla video I have watched, really a pro!
Wow you can tell this is not the first time you've done this but how the hell do you keep track of all those screws what's your system great video great presentation and what a pro I'm so impressed if I ever had to do this I take plenty of pictures
When you don enough of them, you just know where the screws go. LOL
This video was extremely helpful in me installing a PA system
Nice video.
Curious if you’ve tried using a telescoping magnet to catch the shims before they fall behind the MCU and into the abyss. Also, tape the shims before installing the MCU and they will be there ready for you.
An air pump wedge works as well for lifting and holding the dash pad up out of the way.
Man if only they had designed the bezel to be a bit wider and would just snap off exposing the mounting bolts. Then the screen could be removed without taking the whole dash apart......
Looks pretty straight forward.
Top work, and with care. Using paper tape to protect the chrome parts. In mine...someone dosen't had that care...and now..some scratches :(
Thanks for the instruction. I need to replace my leaking screen, and am trying to decide whether this is a DIY job. Tesla quoted $2600, and I had to come in to the service center. I am also confused about what parts I will need for my 2013 MS.
U Tubota send us an email. We can get you just the touchscreen. It’s only 8 more screws and some ribbon connectors past what is shown in the video. Info@electrifiedgarage.com
Or just get the newer MCU2 for 2500 so you can get all the newer features.
Great video but can I recommend a 15 second outro asking to click like and subscribe, it gives me time to click on the thumbs up before youtube puts me straight to the next video on autoplay.
Great work guys!
very nice Mr. Chad
Awesome first person perspective. My only gripe is that freaking drill sound.
Oh man
You are so pro
I proud you❣❣❣❤❤
You are the best on TH-cam!
Thank you for the detailed video, I’m purchasing one and the screen itself is separating and has space in between the display and the cover panel
13:59 What connector was that? I could not understand what you said. GREAT Video, thank you.
Awesome video, thank you. I'm not doing the work myself but I wanted to see what was involved.
Honest question: how do you keep track of what screw goes with what part?
Thanks for this video. This great content to share for us DIY'ers. i know every tech has their own method, but i watched 2 diff Tesla (ranger) guys take off 1/2 less pieces )namely the drivers side. They also didn't completely pop the dash. Just lifted it w/a bag. Have you ever watched others to see if there could be more simplification in your workflow?
Ryan Robertson the process we showed makes it the least likely method for damaging anything. Shortcuts that end up breaking or scratching things aren’t worth doing in our opinion. Then you’re doing the job twice to replace the things you damaged. For example if you don’t undo the airbag it puts a lot of strain on the aluminum trim on the dash pad. The aluminum isn’t available separately so if you bend or crease it you have to do the entire pad. In the early days this was $3k+ to replace. It’s come down under $1k now but still is an expensive item to break. If you damage the dash trim pieces they’re not available separately so you have to source a used one or pay for an entire set. Yes you’re right you could take apart less but is the risk worth the reward.... the odds aren’t in your favor and would immediately negate doing it yourself vs having a professional do it in terms of costs.
@@ElectrifiedGarage I seem to remember a video by Rich that had him breaking the dash piece adjacent to the left side of the screen. I think your advice is sound, and since if you DIY, then you are not paying by the hour: safety is the best bet.
Great video, love your shop
Thank you!
Easy fix with future problems, use double sided 3M tape m (gray one) to replace those washers
Can you do a video of replacing the Instrument cluster?
I have got 2013 tesla model s it has no mcu and cluster.. I have got used mcu from a salvage car installed but only backup camera working on the screen no touch no other taps what should I do if you have any ideas
Please give any suggestions on how to get it runing again
awesome, made it look easy
Great video this is what TH-cam is all about. I plan on getting the mcu1 upgrade and want xn radio. Can you tell us where the radio tuner module is? Would like to add it if tesla won't. Thanks
Technoz Ski if you do their upgrade you’ll lose that option. It’s internal to the MCU and not something you could add after the fact. So you’ll need to make a judgement call as to what’s more important. The infotainment upgrade or your XM.
@@ElectrifiedGarage thank you for clarifying infotainment it is. I heard AP2 cars are not getting the black/white cameras replaced. Do you have any intel if that's true?
@@TechnozSki We haven't heard anymore on this at this time.
I'm swapping out the dash pad on 2015 MS. Quick question, if I followed all of your steps in your video through your video up to 5:47, would the dash pad at that point be ready for removal and simply pop off or are there any other screws that I need to remove to accomplish this. Thanks.
Great video!
did you have to do any special downloads to get the new unit to work or was it just plug and play
hey b0ss do you have a video to show how to replace the air vent blend door actuator? its under the dash somewhere.
Do you need to program the mew mcu or it will work after replacing it?
Does a used MCU two unit need to be paired programmed to a car?
Great Video. Do you have a shop near San Francisco area?
If I want to put a mcu2 diy would I need to reprogram it ? How would I do that if I buy a used one. Na did I wanted to just replace my mcu1 with another mcu1 don’t I need to program it ? Or somthing?
Thanks so much for this!
Nice Video. Do you know where the Thermal Controller is? Mine is broken due to bad grounding nut. I dont know where its located.
Should i disconnect 12v battery before done this?
@ElectrifiedGarage is it possible to replace mcu1 with used mcu2 from wrecked vehicle? If so, how do you register the new mcu2 so your car and Tesla recognize it?
I have a question. My MCU is no longer working and Tesla isn't fixing them, so I have a car that is not working at all. If I got an MCU from eBay, would that void my warranty? Would my car still work? Could I face any repercussions for doing so?
No you can't not just install a MCU and go. Even if its another MCU1 you still have to move some files from your old one to the replacement. What is not working? Have you tried a soft reset? And you can have your original MCU fixed and sent back to you aswell.
Email info@electrifiedgarage.com , we offer mail in MCU repair.
very helpful! thank you
impressive 🇧🇸
best channel :)
Great Instructions! Do you guys ship to Switzerland?
Sam Moe yes we do.
Bro where we can add 360 view module wire on the mcu
Hi thanks for this great content awesome job I have a question do I need to program the MCU2 installed in the car or not I can buy any MCU and installing and they should work
cartech ga they have to be programmed to the car and data needs to be copied over from the original. It is not a plug and play situation.
Electrified Garage ok thanks for answer, do you guys do that? I am sure Tesla won’t do that
cartech ga we can do a 1 for 1 swap. Retrofitting MCU2 is not cost effective. Hardware alone is $4500+. Tesla’s plan to offer it is the only realistic option.
Electrified Garage sorry I did not understand, 1 for 1 swap ?
And I have to send you th wold one and you will send me the one with programm
@@Matthewjo22 You would have to send us your MCU and we will fix the tegra board in it and then send it back to you already programmed for the card. Please email us info@electrifiedgarage.com for more information.
is the little slot at the top right of the MCU as you were pulling it out.... the SIM CARD slot?
Negative, that is the micro SD card for the Navigation maps, the SIM card it internal of the MCU on the Modem board. It is replaceable but the unit has to come apart. On the MCU 2 it is accessible from the outside.
What brand power tools do you guys use?
Andre juneau Milwaukee
0:50 what does the electrical connector on that piece of plastic do? 😂
passanger airbag disconnect
🎉
One question, what is the big brown, big gray, and big black connectors for?
Are you referring to the top row large connectors? Those are Can Bus connections / Lin Bus connections.
Do you have any idea if the warranty replacement of the 8GB eMMC replacement with the 64GB eMMC will require a complete MCU replacement/upgrade? Or is the eMMC a component of the MCU that can be individually removed and replaced? Pardon if not using the exact correct terminology. I'm not a smart man lol.
So the EMMC board it a separate unit that can be replaced without requiring Replacement/upgrade of unit.
@@ElectrifiedGarage that's the most likely solution for the recall then, I'd imagine.
Great video.
Can the MCU2 be fitted from another car? Does it need to be coded in or plug and play?
The MCU is coded to the vehicle and has all of the important info so you cant just swap it, it needs data extraction from the original unit to be put back in the replacement unit.
@@ElectrifiedGarage thanks guys for the reply.
Is this just plug and play? No de pairing or programming to the car ? Where does the car ID come from? ….While that’s relatively easy to remove, I guess you can see why Tesla wanted to simplify that dash for production of later models.
let me get this straight, What I'm seeing is I'm gonna have to dissemble the whole car to change my mcu? 🤔
Where can i buy the latest mcu for 06/2017 Model S running windows 95 (MCU1)?🙂
Have you tried working on a Tesla that is going to be shipped out of the US? If yes, any video on how you changed the SIM card of the Tesla MCU? And if the MCU is capable of using different SIM card carriers?
Does the GPS and Navigation work outside the United States?
I'm referring to all USDM Teslas sent outside US. TIA foe the answer. 👍👍👍
So the short answer....yes..
There is a SIM, it is replaceable, you do have to remove the MCU, disassemble unit to reach the card. However... the GPS- there is a region code for the maps, if it leaves the region the maps will not download unless that is changed.
@@ElectrifiedGarage oh...okay..
So if I'm going to send a Tesla Model X over here in the Philippines, my car is not connected to the mothership and is Navigation-less..
But will it update with Wi-Fi connection Software-wise?
I just find it a bit weird that the Navigation won't update as it is Google-based even if you connect it to the internet via Wi-Fi.
What if the screen is already dead and you can’t get to the vehicle power off button?
Allen Furmanski disconnect the 12v battery and the first responders loop and don’t worry about it.
I had my 4/2016 Model S with 64K mi screen go black two days ago. There was no way I could re-boot it so I took it to Tesla service today. The said a rebuilt/exchange MCU was $1146 installed. They said I could have the HW2 Infotainment upgrade for $2250 and I told them to go ahead with that. Awhile later they said they couldn't do the upgrade only the exchange because my S didn't have electric trunk lifts and they weren't allowed to do the infotainment update on my car as the version for my car was not available. I wonder if I try to read the chip and do the BGA soldering and fail if they would know the difference. At this point I am waiting to see if they can restore the file system and bring it back to life without spending > $1000. For over two years I have been complaining that the web browser worked when I got the car, then it stopped playing my USB drive, weeks after that it would not re-boot until I removed the USB and now it just plain will not boot. I was surprised however that the autopilot worked perfectly on the way to Tesla service with the black screen.
howd it go?
They restored the system (I think replaced corrupted files) for $200 and it worked for a couple of months like it hadn't for over two years. The other day it wouldn't play music so I did the two button salute and it went black.
Now I have no idea what they are going to do, I CANNOT SPEAK TO ANYONE AT TESLA BUT A COMPUTER! I used the app and the earliest appointment is in almost a month. I am sure they will not have the part when I bring my car.
WHAT A HASSLE!
@@delschier1419 Wow. So far my 2015 P85D has only had a failed door handle after 160k km. Service Center over here has been pretty nice as well. Considdered going 3rd party to get it fixed?
There is a guy on ebay that can pull your files from your existing MCU unit and send them to you. So you could buy a used one and have your files moved over to the used replacement one.
@@delschier1419 Tesla offers mcu 2 update for none power gatelift cars. Make sure ask them to install mcu2
My 2015 Tesla Model S has an MCU1 that can't handle the new software. Tesla service confirmed it, but said I have to pay for the upgrade. WTF? An MCU error is a recall, no matter if it's the eMMC or software obsolescence, right? ugh... small claims court here I come.
Thanks for uploading, great work.
Do I need to program a MCU 2 unit before installing?
Thanks
Thank you. Can you also do Model X video please?
What on a MX would you like to see?
@@ElectrifiedGarage can you please make videos around replacing suspension components? Also I would like to see how you do door alignments etc? Thank you very much for all the hard work.
I don’t think you need to take off that much trim. There’s another video of a guy swapping his MCU who only lifted the top dash pieces to get it out.
i have a question can you upgrade to the mcu 2 on that same vehicle? is it worth it or no?
awesome video guys :) please if you have a amazon affiliate account post links for people to buy tool and drill bit etc. and u will get back something :)
I paid Tesla service $175 to see if my EMMc chip was actually bad and they gave the car back with with corrupted files repaired and the MCU working like new but that only lasted about two months. A month ago the music stopped playing and I did the two button salute and it went black and stayed black. I scheduled service but that was a month out. They were supposed to call when they had the part, a replacement Tegra board. They don't want to talk on the phone but with great difficulty I got a service guy to call. A person from my local service assured me I could bring it in sooner and that he would call when the part came in. He never called! I texted them on the appointment date and said I was not bringing the car unless they had the part. The guy on the phone said they would fix it while I waited but when I got there they said they would let me know when it would be done and the guy didn't seem to know if they did or did not have the part. Now they say it will be there for a week and it is cued for service, whatever that means. The good news is now they want $310 labor & parts instead of $1146. The guy on the phone said it would get a new 64 GB chip, but they guy there said I would get exactly what I had so looks like $300 every 4 yrs. I don't know what I am getting except the service guy said I would have a 1 yr warranty on the repair; I doubt in writing.
Send the MCU to Electrified Garage, we can do it and send it back, we use commercial grade memory that wont fail on you. Email - info@electrifiedgarage.com for details.
What does Tesla charge for that?
Used to be $2,300 for Tesla to replace a MCU1 with another MCU1 (parts+labor). But now that the MCU2 retrofit is available for some MCU1 cars I've heard the price for MCU1 has dropped to $1,300 installed.
@@markusstrobl1067 $1300 is just the part. Comes out to 1750ish after labor/fees..
I ended up sending it to a guy in CA from the Tesla motors club forum, 1/3rd the cost of Tesla for a much faster, 4x larger, quality chip. I can tell it's much smoother than it ever had been before
@@fabianhernandez1734 Thanks for the info on price. My 2013 is still on the original MCU so I'm expecting a failure sooner rather than later. An advantage to having Tesla do it is they do give a 4 year warranty on replacement MCUs.
@@markusstrobl1067 Markus Strobl I thought about it too but from reading the forums a ton, for $1700 Tesla gives you a "remanufactured MCU" with the same 8gb emmc chip that has an unknown amount of life left that will fail again like the original. Some had the Tesla refab MCU fail months later. I prefered having the 32gb swissbit chip running in 16gb endurance mode that should last the life of the car for $1200 less(they can also upgrade to LTE for a small fee). If you have yellowing screen border Tesla option might be worth it since you get a new screen, probably LTE, and no car dismantling.
@@fabianhernandez1734 Yep. Decisions, decisions... never easy, is it? Were you able to charge the car while your Tegra board was being repaired? I know it will drive, but I'm unclear if it will charge. Some say it does, some say it doesn't.