I've had lots of trouble with PVC male and female adapters connecting to galvanized pipe and fittings, but no trouble with a bushing glued into a coupling. It makes the transition point much stronger.
Yes, a reduced pressure backflow preventer was required by the city and they inspected the installation. I ended up rotating the backflow preventer so the vent was pointing down (not shown in video).
Yes, in going from PVC to galvanized there a weak point at the connection. That's why I used a coupling with a bushing to make that transition point stronger. Galvanized pipe and fittings start corroding the minute you install them, but you need the galvanized for strength. PVC doesn't do well above ground.
Good question. I'm not sure I have a definitive answer. Backflow preventers are different from vacuum breakers in that they have double check valves in the backflow assembly. Elevation isn't a requirement, they simply need to be installed between the stop & waste valve and the first set of valves in the sprinkler system. Vacuum breakers and anti-siphon valves do have the elevation requirement of being 12" higher than the highest sprinkler head. (continued)
+iScaper1 Thanks for the talk-back. I also took notice of the galvanized lines and unions. I'm installing a new sprinkler system myself in freeze zone with double backflow reqs by code. I want a strong install, pipes mounted to foundation with minimal to no pvc outside. - my manifold goes out to black pipe.So your visuals were quite helpful how I would come out of house with copper - turn to galv into the ground. Cheers ! and thanks
I have a stop & waste valve in the yard that tees into the main supply to the house. This backflow preventer is cut into the sprinkler supply from the stop & waste valve. Code here requires it be installed before the first set of sprinkler valves. If your sprinkler supply is in the basement you might be able to install a different backflow preventer there. You could contact the city water department in your area and see what is required.
I like to put a ball valve right before the back flow to serve as a main shutoff. I also like to have brass ball valves on either side of the back flow preventer too.
Where I live requirements were a Reduced Pressure Backflow Preventer installed a minimum of 12" above grade and before the first set of sprinkler valves. Installation had to be inspected by the city before backfilling. You would need to contact your local water department to see what codes are required where you live.
I ran into this catch 22 when I was working construction. I joined the union and was on the C list. I went and got a job on my own driving 50 ton rock trucks. The next day someone on the A list complained and I lost my job. They told me I needed more hours to get on the A list. So I needed more hours to get on the A list but couldn't get the hours I needed because I was on the C list and wouldn't be called out if someone on the A or B list wanted the job first.
So what do you do if you have a sloping yard where a number of sprinkler heads are higher in elevation than the sprinkler valves? This is where I see a flaw in the requirement of installing anti-siphon valves and vacuum breakers. I have lived where cities install a meter yoke with backflow preventer to protect their main lines. To me this is the preferred method, but where I currently live no one does it. In your case I would contact the local water department and see what they will let you do.
The Plumbing code does not allow for the combination of two different metals. You cannot combine galvanized and copper or brass and have water run through it. It will cause major corrosion in every little time.
Faucets are usually made of brass and they are routinely used in galvanized iron plumbing systems. When was the last time you encountered a galvanized iron faucet? They don't exist.
Hay Leo this code is required only if you have a system that's run to yard from your home supply. If you have a water supply separate from a home supply then this setup is not necessary. In other words if you have a system hooked up to your home you sir need to do this. What say you? Linda from Ga.
thanks for the video demo. Can you suggest from where to buy the back flow preventer ? I had Watts 1 inch 009 and during winter it just broke and need a replacement.
Somehow I missed this video but I found it from your feed. Tell me, if some sprinkler heads are higher than the height of the backflow preventer, would you have to raise the preventer higher to get that 15" clearance?
Thanks saved me a lot of money. Sorry if this is a duplicate comment. Anyway in the case of the multiple pipes you might could sometimes "figure out" by turning the incoming valve on and off and feeling for pressure, or running it through some distant valve and feeling for water flowing/coldness. Also on the transition from galvanized to pvc, it appears that's a "screw in bushing" followed by a grey union (or that's what home depot calls them) followed by another bushing out of the union, sound right? Thanks!
hi kerry i allways like watching your videos i have a question what is the best way 2 tie into city water 4 a sprinkler sys gal pipe and ware after the meator or before it goes in the house if a comp fitting is used on gal pipe is that strong
Hi John. I have used PVC dresser coupling and dresser tees to tap into galvanized supply lines with no problems. If your nervous about using PVC dresser couplings and tees, Champion makes brass dresser couplings and tees in IPS sizes which work good also.
So you can't do installs because you're not a member of a union? What does the regulating authority care if someone is a member of a union or not, as long as an installation meets code requirements it should pass regardless of who does the installation.
When we bought our house there was no backflow prevention either on the sprinkler system. The city recently required it be put in or we couldn't use water for the sprinkler system.
RPBA requires 2 pipe diameters or 2", which ever is greater, from the spill level of the rim to the bottom of the RPBA. 12" is lots. I would pay the extra to plumb in something besides galvanized. Tuberculation will cause you grief with the RPBA.
where exactly did you splice the backflow preventer into. I also tap into the copper off the water main in the basement but code requires in your area 12" about sprinkler.
They can be installed sideways but not the one in this video. It's a rp and should be upright and not sideways. On centain double check assemblys in ground they have to be sideways to access the 2nd check for repair. Good job piping it together and what u have will work fine. I see worse every day trust me. Good job
I would. PVC pipe above ground turns brown and gets brittle in the sunlight. Any bumping with a lawnmower or foot traffic will cause the pipe to crack or break.
Great video. I was wondering if the city identified what type device was required (double check or reduced pressure)? It appears the one you installed was a Watts Series 009 which is a reduced pressure zone assembly (RPZ). If so, the vent between the two checks must be pointed down so it is able to discharge once the pressure drops.
Galvanive going into brass will oxidize and corrode through time, quicker when under the ground due to electrolysis. If that is a dump on the bottom of backflow it should face down. Always wipe your solvent weld joints with a rag.
Great technique duct-tapping the primer and glue together! Keeps them more stable, less likely to tip over. But, make the overall presentation quicker, including the talking, reasonably of course.
@@MRrwmac Here's a link: www.amazon.com/Best-Choice-Products-Wishing-Planter/dp/B01CIPDKPG/ref=asc_df_B01CIPDKPG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193139379506&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11657242834007334148&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029757&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-310199228301&psc=1 The trick is to find one big enough so the backflow preventer sits inside.
Galvanized Pipes and fittings Rust. All Plumbing To any irrigation system should be Schedule 80 PVC or Copper, Especially Brass. Brass in does not corrosive , non - rust , nor oxidize . Brass is the best metallic in plumbing aside from copper itself. Galvanized is bad. I always replace it because it leaks, rusts, and obstructs deposits and debris and enters in the diaphragms of the solenoid valves creating a series and number of mechanical failure.
Hire an educated licensed contractor. This assembly has not been installed per manufacturer specification, and is not designed to protect against Backflow laying on its side. The city should not have approved this installed in this matter if they knew what they were looking at.
Sorry but if that was my house you would of been fired for that job. Putting a back flow in the yard it would of been ran to the house and properly mounted with supports. And then mixing metals with pipe dope you should tape and dope them. It was a good video just teach it properly and to meet code and look good for the customer.
iScaper1 Physics is physics regardless of where you live. Brass is usually around %65 copper. It'll still carry the current that makes corrosion possible. We carried jumper cables in our trucks in order to jump the water meter setting if current was grounding to the pipes during replacement. Up to you though. Good luck.
mongo586 All the plumbers I know around here use galvanized not because of physics but because of economics. Galvanized nipples and fittings are much cheaper than brass nipples and fittings.
your backflow is sideways and must have the test ports upright. also your backflow is brass and your fittings are galvanized. can't mix metals and have water run through them. national Plumbing code
You should be using a male pvc to go into metal female. Less likely to crack the male pvc. Male metal will be much more likely to crack female pvc if you over tighten.
PVC male and female adapters don't do well when transitioning to brass or galvanized fittings. I had to learn this the hard way. That's why I used a PVC threaded bushing glued into a slip coupling. It makes the transition joint much stronger.
So many things wrong with this installation. Please refer to your AHJ. Don’t know which state you are in but unfortunately this would never pass inspection. Did city supply you with RPBA.
As a licensed CSI, I found many problems with this video. For starters a licensed plumber should be performing the installation of the backflow assembly, and a licensed bpat person should test the device upon installation and annually thereafter with copy of test reports being submitted to your water utility provider, I wouldn’t use galvanized pipe for water lines due to rapid corrosion rates, your rpz assembly is also installed improperly being turned sideways. Also if this is just for a residential irrigation system, I wonder why your utility provider called for the more expensive rpz assembly when a double check valve assembly would have served the purpose and been more economic.
Installation was inspected twice by the city. I did turn the vent on the backflow preventer down (not shown in video). The city required the reduced pressure backflow preventer which was around $200 more than the regular double check assembly.
A double check valve doesn't do the trick, because you can't see when it fails. Works when dealing with non-hazardous water, like fire suppression, but not with hazardous water, like irrigation.
I have this video a thumbs down because your using galvanized pipe, which is cancer for irrigation. They rust and corrode causing issues with your backflow, your control valves and clogs nozzles. Also galvanized unions swell from corrosion and are an issues removing and resealing. I would prefer you remove this video because it's giving bad advise. I'm an irrigation professional and been doing it for almost 10 years. If you would of done this in sch 80 pipe, copper or even brass would of worked but galvanized is horrible.
The installation was inspected and passed by the city. Schedule 80 pipe fades in sunlight and will snap off if bumped by a lawn mower. Copper doesn't do well exposed to the elements either. Brass is the best solution but most homeowners don't want the added cost when the city will approve galvanized. Probably 95% of the above ground BF preventers I see in this valley are plumbed with galvanized.
@@Iscaper Whether it's approved or not will be the least of your worries. Saving by using galvanized is penny-wise and dollar-foolish. I've had to rebuild backflows because of premature wear from this "pipe cancer" you're going to get from using galvanized, not to mention what it will do to your valves, nozzles, check valves, etc. Sorry, chum.
My city has extensive backflow prevention requirements, but it turns out that it doesn't apply to residential properties. I have a 60 year old sprinkler system and no backflow prevention. So when I replaced the supply line with PEX I threw in a dual check valve. It was simple and compact, and could be put down in the shutoff valve vault.
I've had lots of trouble with PVC male and female adapters connecting to galvanized pipe and fittings, but no trouble with a bushing glued into a coupling. It makes the transition point much stronger.
Yes, a reduced pressure backflow preventer was required by the city and they inspected the installation. I ended up rotating the backflow preventer so the vent was pointing down (not shown in video).
Yes, in going from PVC to galvanized there a weak point at the connection. That's why I used a coupling with a bushing to make that transition point stronger. Galvanized pipe and fittings start corroding the minute you install them, but you need the galvanized for strength. PVC doesn't do well above ground.
Good works and excellent demo, i study point at 1 1/4" bushing instead of 1" coupling, enforce connection even thought, very good and thanks.
+George Chang
Thanks George for the feedback.
Good question. I'm not sure I have a definitive answer. Backflow preventers are different from vacuum breakers in that they have double check valves in the backflow assembly. Elevation isn't a requirement, they simply need to be installed between the stop & waste valve and the first set of valves in the sprinkler system. Vacuum breakers and anti-siphon valves do have the elevation requirement of being 12" higher than the highest sprinkler head.
(continued)
I liked the bit about reinforcing pvc connections with the bushings.
+attilahooper
Thanks, I had to learn that trick the hard way.
+iScaper1 Thanks for the talk-back. I also took notice of the galvanized lines and unions. I'm installing a new sprinkler system myself in freeze zone with double backflow reqs by code. I want a strong install, pipes mounted to foundation with minimal to no pvc outside. - my manifold goes out to black pipe.So your visuals were quite helpful how I would come out of house with copper - turn to galv into the ground. Cheers ! and thanks
+attilahooper
Thanks, I'm glad the video was helpful.
wow i can't wait to do this later this week!!! thanks for posting, detailed and clear
Good luck!
I have a stop & waste valve in the yard that tees into the main supply to the house. This backflow preventer is cut into the sprinkler supply from the stop & waste valve. Code here requires it be installed before the first set of sprinkler valves.
If your sprinkler supply is in the basement you might be able to install a different backflow preventer there. You could contact the city water department in your area and see what is required.
The backflow discharge hole also needs to point down. You have the whole assembly sideways.
Nice. Thanks for the good guidance, particularly using unions, etc., to make later repairs, if needed, easier.
Use Teflon tape in irrigation not pipe dope. Pipe dope will get into the valves and malfunction the operation as an obstruction in the diaphragms .
Thanks for the comment.
I like to put a ball valve right before the back flow to serve as a main shutoff. I also like to have brass ball valves on either side of the back flow preventer too.
I enjoyed watching this thanks 🙏
great install, thanks, how the backflow preventer now?
Where I live requirements were a Reduced Pressure Backflow Preventer installed a minimum of 12" above grade and before the first set of sprinkler valves. Installation had to be inspected by the city before backfilling. You would need to contact your local water department to see what codes are required where you live.
12" above the highest sprinkler head. !! That is important
I ran into this catch 22 when I was working construction. I joined the union and was on the C list. I went and got a job on my own driving 50 ton rock trucks. The next day someone on the A list complained and I lost my job. They told me I needed more hours to get on the A list. So I needed more hours to get on the A list but couldn't get the hours I needed because I was on the C list and wouldn't be called out if someone on the A or B list wanted the job first.
This is the video I was looking for! Thank you!
So what do you do if you have a sloping yard where a number of sprinkler heads are higher in elevation than the sprinkler valves? This is where I see a flaw in the requirement of installing anti-siphon valves and vacuum breakers. I have lived where cities install a meter yoke with backflow preventer to protect their main lines. To me this is the preferred method, but where I currently live no one does it.
In your case I would contact the local water department and see what they will let you do.
The Plumbing code does not allow for the combination of two different metals. You cannot combine galvanized and copper or brass and have water run through it. It will cause major corrosion in every little time.
Faucets are usually made of brass and they are routinely used in galvanized iron plumbing systems. When was the last time you encountered a galvanized iron faucet? They don't exist.
Good video. How do you decide which back flow preventer to use? Do you ask the city?
Yes, the city's water department will tell you what they require.
@@Iscaper Thank you.
Hay Leo this code is required only if you have a system that's run to yard from your home supply. If you have a water supply separate from a home supply then this setup is not necessary. In other words if you have a system hooked up to your home you sir need to do this. What say you? Linda from Ga.
Do you have a video showing how the main supply line is plumbed in or off a faucet?
thanks for the video demo. Can you suggest from where to buy the back flow preventer ? I had Watts 1 inch 009 and during winter it just broke and need a replacement.
Amazon or Lowe's carry them.
Somehow I missed this video but I found it from your feed. Tell me, if some sprinkler heads are higher than the height of the backflow preventer, would you have to raise the preventer higher to get that 15" clearance?
Thanks saved me a lot of money. Sorry if this is a duplicate comment. Anyway in the case of the multiple pipes you might could sometimes "figure out" by turning the incoming valve on and off and feeling for pressure, or running it through some distant valve and feeling for water flowing/coldness. Also on the transition from galvanized to pvc, it appears that's a "screw in bushing" followed by a grey union (or that's what home depot calls them) followed by another bushing out of the union, sound right? Thanks!
Pretty work, but the drain is required to face down here in North Carolina
Yeah, the city inspector never notified me of this. After talking to my plumbing supplier about the orientation of the vent I turned it facing down.
What schedule PVC was used here? I live in Michigan.
Schedule 40.
@@Iscaper even with connection to the pvb? I have to move mine outdoors, so just redoing that area. Can I send you pics?
@@cspill99 You can email me at kerry@iscaper.com
beautiful work
Thanks Selmo.
Good points.
Fantastic!
Many thanks!
Is ok to combine galvanized whit brass?
Yes, galvanized to brass is okay, galvanized to copper is not.
hi kerry i allways like watching your videos i have a question what is the best way 2 tie into city water 4 a sprinkler sys gal pipe and ware after the meator or before it goes in the house if a comp fitting is used on gal pipe is that strong
Hi John. I have used PVC dresser coupling and dresser tees to tap into galvanized supply lines with no problems. If your nervous about using PVC dresser couplings and tees, Champion makes brass dresser couplings and tees in IPS sizes which work good also.
So you can't do installs because you're not a member of a union? What does the regulating authority care if someone is a member of a union or not, as long as an installation meets code requirements it should pass regardless of who does the installation.
Like how you used sch 40 bushings on a sch 80 Union
excellent!
Thanks!
If my water line supply is 3/4 should my back flow preventer be 3/4 also?
Yes.
@@Iscaper thanks! Appreciate it your answer.
@@AlabanzasyAdoración7 You're welcome 🙂
When we bought our house there was no backflow prevention either on the sprinkler system. The city recently required it be put in or we couldn't use water for the sprinkler system.
Nice job
Thanks!
No requirements on using brass over galvanized. Galvanized is much cheaper than brass. Either would work fine in this installation.
why did you put your backflow preventer sideways?
Everything home repair why not
RPBA requires 2 pipe diameters or 2", which ever is greater, from the spill level of the rim to the bottom of the RPBA. 12" is lots. I would pay the extra to plumb in something besides galvanized. Tuberculation will cause you grief with the RPBA.
I wonder what that backflow preventer looks like today?
where exactly did you splice the backflow preventer into. I also tap into the copper off the water main in the basement but code requires in your area 12" about sprinkler.
you have that all wrong! the assembly needs to be moved 90 degrees so the "dump" is facing down
also you can buy dielectric fittings to make the transition.
They can be installed sideways but not the one in this video. It's a rp and should be upright and not sideways. On centain double check assemblys in ground they have to be sideways to access the 2nd check for repair. Good job piping it together and what u have will work fine. I see worse every day trust me. Good job
What direction the arrow
You want the direction arrow pointing downstream.
does your current house have a backflow preventer installed on your sprinkler system
No, but if I upgrade my sprinkler system I'll have to install one.
If I remember right my backflow preventer was over $200 just for the preventer.
my guy didn't use galvanized pipes, only PVC. should I replace the PVC with galvanized pipe
I would. PVC pipe above ground turns brown and gets brittle in the sunlight. Any bumping with a lawnmower or foot traffic will cause the pipe to crack or break.
Great video. I was wondering if the city identified what type device was required (double check or reduced pressure)? It appears the one you installed was a Watts Series 009 which is a reduced pressure zone assembly (RPZ). If so, the vent between the two checks must be pointed down so it is able to discharge once the pressure drops.
Kerry were do you get the t 4 the glue cans
I bought mine at a local plumbing distributor.
Galvanive going into brass will oxidize and corrode through time, quicker when under the ground due to electrolysis. If that is a dump on the bottom of backflow it should face down. Always wipe your solvent weld joints with a rag.
Great technique duct-tapping the primer and glue together! Keeps them more stable, less likely to tip over.
But, make the overall presentation quicker, including the talking, reasonably of course.
Metal into pvc is gambling on breaking the pvc, also galvanized pipe is going to start corroding below ground (galvanic action with the brass).
So what did you do to hide the piping and preventer? Plants to cover it or a box of some sort?
I installed a wishing well lawn ornament.
iScaper1 That’s even better! Great idea. Could you attach a picture or link to a similar one online? Thanks!
@@MRrwmac Here's a link: www.amazon.com/Best-Choice-Products-Wishing-Planter/dp/B01CIPDKPG/ref=asc_df_B01CIPDKPG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193139379506&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11657242834007334148&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029757&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-310199228301&psc=1
The trick is to find one big enough so the backflow preventer sits inside.
you cant put unions in the dirt, they need to be accessible
Galvanized Pipes and fittings Rust. All Plumbing To any irrigation system should be Schedule 80 PVC or Copper, Especially Brass. Brass in does not corrosive , non - rust , nor oxidize . Brass is the best metallic in plumbing aside from copper itself. Galvanized is bad. I always replace it because it leaks, rusts, and obstructs deposits and debris and enters in the diaphragms of the solenoid valves creating a series and number of mechanical failure.
Anthony Sean
Brass is nice, but it's triple the cost.
+iScaper1 most people use either l or m copper not brass. anytime galvanized is used the device is usually older.
The relief valve is suppose to point DOWN......I’m surprised the inspector didn’t catch that.....oooops, not really 😂😂😂
Yeah, the inspector missed that. A plumber friend informed the vent should point down so I rotated it after the video was made.
Hire an educated licensed contractor. This assembly has not been installed per manufacturer specification, and is not designed to protect against Backflow laying on its side. The city should not have approved this installed in this matter if they knew what they were looking at.
Good point. I ended up rotating the backflow preventer to where the vent was pointing down.
Your the man. God bless.
Any backflow valve should be in the upright position. It should never be installed sideways EVER
Anthony Sean
I did turn the vent to where is was pointing down but didn't show that step in the video.
Any backflow. Not true. Only p.v.b Type
OCN, only use galvanized, going to mess up BFA, in do tome, a No no.
where exactly is this code required?
depends on city i think
Wow. Doesn't seem quite fair. Are you going to join the union?
Sorry but if that was my house you would of been fired for that job. Putting a back flow in the yard it would of been ran to the house and properly mounted with supports. And then mixing metals with pipe dope you should tape and dope them. It was a good video just teach it properly and to meet code and look good for the customer.
well in Ohio, you need to be state licensed / certified to install and test back flows
🤦🏽♂️ this man called the manifold a "valve cluster" done w the video after 1:03
Ahhhhh! No dielectric unions between the galvanized and brass? Nooooo!
In our area if you're going from copper to galvanized, you need a dielectric union. If you go galvanized to brass, you don't.
iScaper1 Physics is physics regardless of where you live. Brass is usually around %65 copper. It'll still carry the current that makes corrosion possible. We carried jumper cables in our trucks in order to jump the water meter setting if current was grounding to the pipes during replacement. Up to you though. Good luck.
mongo586
All the plumbers I know around here use galvanized not because of physics but because of economics. Galvanized nipples and fittings are much cheaper than brass nipples and fittings.
your backflow is sideways and must have the test ports upright. also your backflow is brass and your fittings are galvanized. can't mix metals and have water run through them. national Plumbing code
Vinny Gumbats. Not correct, the RPZ is brass. Galvanized to brass is fine.
You should be using a male pvc to go into metal female. Less likely to crack the male pvc. Male metal will be much more likely to crack female pvc if you over tighten.
PVC male and female adapters don't do well when transitioning to brass or galvanized fittings. I had to learn this the hard way. That's why I used a PVC threaded bushing glued into a slip coupling. It makes the transition joint much stronger.
10:18 Ice cream truck
this BFP is way overkill for your sprinkler system. smh
Not if your grade is too high above where you can put protection. You need pvb .12" above highest head.
So many things wrong with this installation. Please refer to your AHJ. Don’t know which state you are in but unfortunately this would never pass inspection. Did city supply you with RPBA.
Galvanized on a potable water system !!! How you dont get cancer bro.
Wth that doesn't look right.
As a licensed CSI, I found many problems with this video. For starters a licensed plumber should be performing the installation of the backflow assembly, and a licensed bpat person should test the device upon installation and annually thereafter with copy of test reports being submitted to your water utility provider, I wouldn’t use galvanized pipe for water lines due to rapid corrosion rates, your rpz assembly is also installed improperly being turned sideways. Also if this is just for a residential irrigation system, I wonder why your utility provider called for the more expensive rpz assembly when a double check valve assembly would have served the purpose and been more economic.
Installation was inspected twice by the city. I did turn the vent on the backflow preventer down (not shown in video). The city required the reduced pressure backflow preventer which was around $200 more than the regular double check assembly.
A double check valve doesn't do the trick, because you can't see when it fails. Works when dealing with non-hazardous water, like fire suppression, but not with hazardous water, like irrigation.
Lmao..he’s wearing gloves.
eddie serna what’s wrong with wearing gloves huh?
He must not love cancer as much as you do.
Resident Manager or maybe he doesn’t have a set of balls like I do lol..
You voice is so soft I cannot follow you!
I have this video a thumbs down because your using galvanized pipe, which is cancer for irrigation. They rust and corrode causing issues with your backflow, your control valves and clogs nozzles. Also galvanized unions swell from corrosion and are an issues removing and resealing. I would prefer you remove this video because it's giving bad advise. I'm an irrigation professional and been doing it for almost 10 years. If you would of done this in sch 80 pipe, copper or even brass would of worked but galvanized is horrible.
The installation was inspected and passed by the city. Schedule 80 pipe fades in sunlight and will snap off if bumped by a lawn mower. Copper doesn't do well exposed to the elements either. Brass is the best solution but most homeowners don't want the added cost when the city will approve galvanized. Probably 95% of the above ground BF preventers I see in this valley are plumbed with galvanized.
@@Iscaper Whether it's approved or not will be the least of your worries. Saving by using galvanized is penny-wise and dollar-foolish. I've had to rebuild backflows because of premature wear from this "pipe cancer" you're going to get from using galvanized, not to mention what it will do to your valves, nozzles, check valves, etc. Sorry, chum.
My city has extensive backflow prevention requirements, but it turns out that it doesn't apply to residential properties. I have a 60 year old sprinkler system and no backflow prevention. So when I replaced the supply line with PEX I threw in a dual check valve. It was simple and compact, and could be put down in the shutoff valve vault.
What kind of pipe thread compound do you use? I assume it isn’t to cement the pieces together but to seal and stop leaks, correct?
I've been using Oatey Great White teflon paste.