This helped me tremendously. An instructor told me that the electricity goes to the neutral buss. I wanted to know where it went from there. He kept saying it goes the neutral buss and nowhere else on the first panel. I said on the first panel, the ground and the neutral busses are connected - does it go to ground? Answer - no it goes to the neutral buss. He thought I was a complete idiot. There is indeed a return line back to the mains He told me "no It stays in the neutral buss" I knew there had to be a way that it went somewhere instead of just magically disappearing. He thought I was mentally deficient that I could not understand it just went to the neutral buss. Thanks so much for the simple explanation about this. I feel much better knowing I am not crazy in my thinking that their has to be more than the "magic" neutral buss.
Go back to your instructor and explain what he just said and tell him it doesn’t hang out at the neutral buss it goes back to the transformer. Few times in life you get to see the all knowing stand there in disbelief that he was schooled by the student!
There are different levels of understanding which sound like different answers. When I was in school I asked a wireman to explain things to me. They gave simple (incomplete) answers that helped me to grasp difficult concepts. In time as your understanding gets better your answers and questions become more complete. You can understand what an engineer is trying to say...sometimes. This is a great video that answers a difficult concept in a simple way. Yes, it gets more difficult than this but for the curious beginner it is perfect.
I like that description of the neutral. Well said without getting too complicated. But I humbly and respectfully submit that so much more goes on with the ground than lighting protection.
I don't know how much circuit analysis is taught in the trade. The fact that so many electricians (at least new ones) assume right off the bat that neutral does not carry current or has voltage makes me wonder if they even teach circuit analysis at all.
Im at the end of a 5 yr apprenticeship & your video was the first time Ive ever heard a concise, comprehensible definition for the Neutral. So thanks 4 that. BTW, please make more videos so I can get on with my career. lol
Wow @ 5 years you'd think you'd know this. I thought the elec app was 4 years, atleast here in Canada maybe its different. So the N just balances out the 240V split to make 120V, isnt that what the coil is?
rita wix why eletrician needs to go for apprenticeship? I'm thinking in enroll in an eletrician school. did you went to school and after became aprendice? so you can be licensed is that how it works?
Hey ! I want to know, from a single socket for live wire, how does electricity change its polarity ? For instance, if positive charge is coming from live wire, neutral should be negative in order to complete the flow of current, shouldn't it? And if negative charge is coming from the live wire, then neutral wire should be positive terminal, shouldn't it?
That was excellent, clear and concise. Though most of my work was done with DC circuits, I was taught to think of AC neutral as "the return", and that's what I always call it just to keep its real function clear to myself.
You should teach, if not already. It took you 2 minutes, with a simple explanation, everyone got it, and that's it. Excellent. Others would need 15 minutes for the same thing.
I was shocked at the animus expressed in some of these comments. I read them again and I was revolted at the number of pedants here. I’m struggling to stay neutral when I read the angry posts and replies. Were I not so well grounded, I could sense a potential in me to take a side. Ohm my God, I’ve never seen such resistance to a simplified video trying to educate. The detractors with their rancorous comments impede the educational process until finally impedence is too much for the current commenters to overcome. Watt age are you people? I’m sure with some of you this is just a phase, but these constant negative comments should terminate. Take a positive attitude-you conduit.
😲YOU BETTER SWITCH AND TRANSFORM YOUR ATTITUDE AROUND REAL QUICK, SIR! 😲OR I'M GONNA KICK YOU IN THE JOULES 'TIL IT HERTZ!!!! 😲YOU HAPPY NOW THAT YOU GOT ME ALL AMPED UP??!??!? 😲HUH??? 😲ARE YOU?!?!?.................... i'ze sawwee😟!!....i'ze dint meanda yell😢😔
I've been trying to get a straight answer on what a neutral wire does for a while. This was the best , and most simple explanation I've come across. Thank you.
That's one of the most coherent explanations I've ever heard... Easy and simple to understand... I wish my instructions had your ability to break something like this down, your simple description explains so much... And I'm in my second year as an apprentice with IBEW, and believe me alot of us are still lost as to how it actually works....Thank you
The people smart enough to explain the mysterious neutral are to smart to explain it to anyone who is smart enough to understand it. I thank the gentleman for trying.
We really enjoy your thoroughness in explaining not just how to do/repair something, but that you explain the theory/reasoning behind how it works. We hope that you have many more videos to come. Thanks so much for helping us homeowners who are clearly neophytes when it comes to home wiring.
Absolutely correct; - The neutral carries the difference between phases L1 and L2, as you showed.. - Since, the 5amp load on L1 does NOT flow back the neutral, instead it flows on L2 as the return path. - But, L2 has a 7amp load, not all of it can return on L1, so the difference (2amps) will flow on the neutral.. This is because L1 and L2 are 180 degrees out of phase, (L1 is pushing electrons while L2 pulling electrons in 1/60th of a second), hence you have a push/pull arrangement between the 2 phases, and that's why appliances, like you dryer use BOTH phases to provide 240v for the heater/motor, and it works.. (Also, NEVER assume that the Neutral is not carrying current, so NEVER touch the neutral with your hand. It can flow between your hand (Neutral), through your body and your feet (ground). ) I hope this helps..
L1 and L2 are not phases. It is single phase. L1 to L2 is 240 volts with or without a neutral conductor. The whole 180 degree out of phase comment only applies if you state “On an oscilloscope”. There are three sine waves that all start and end at exactly the same time in the system. One is 240 volts, and two are 120 volts. Remember, they all start and finish in the same direction at exactly the same time. Except on oscilloscopes.
I think it is helpful to realize that circuits feeding from one hot leg (L1) are actually in series with those feeding from the L2 leg. So,( 2) 120 volt circuits in series are actually 2 separate loads of a 240 volt circuit. The difference between those loads is the current which then flows through the neutral wire. "Balancing" your breaker panel means getting the current draw on one side to approximately match the draw on the other side, minimizing the current through the neutral wire.
Wow ... very first subscription in TH-cam. I'm 53 and done allot of trades (not an electrician) and you are the best communicator and teacher. Very clear and concise
I'm a licensed electrical engineer in Texas and I totally like your explaination as it's spot on. This also works for a three phase system say a 208y/120v distribution system. Your AB or AC or CB phase will get you 208v single phase but any phase to neutral gets you 120v and of course if you use all three phases you get 208v three phase. On a delta setup its different but you get the picture. A neutral allows you to tap and use different voltages.
At a substation there is a step - down trasformer which steps down 3 wires line high voltage "delta" to low voltage "star" so called "delta/star" 4 wires balanced circuit. The fourth wire is centrally connected and is called "neutral". With 208 volts single phase voltage line to line , and 110 volts line to neutral. When the circuit is balanced the neutral wire doesn't carry carrent. In case of unbalanced circuit neutral wire will carry current. Here wiil be needed the ground...The ground is not a wire ...it is a real ground. At a substation the neutral wire is grounded.It has a real ground. At distribution circuits "ground " is a cold water pipe and connected to neutral in a distribution panel. I am not an electrical engineer...I am a lisenced plant electrician.
@@carlmarx780 we have a neutral ring bus in our cable chambers that are bonded to ground rods, the concentric neutrals and lead sheaths of the cables get bonded to neutral after we splice them.
please, share your experience. I want a smart switch to connect and it requires N. I don't have one and it seems like switches like that need N to power themselves (to have wireless connection and so on). Can I power them up from hot lead and is it safe? So, to be clear, I want to connect hot lead both into L and N sockets.
that was super fucking fantastic!! short and simple and perfect. thank you very much for not trying to sound smarter than the other guys so we could all understand
That explain it to me , the best I have ever heard because I understood what you said !! I listened to other people’s explanations and did not understand a word
Just seen your vid and my comment is a couple of years late, but as an Industrial Electrician, I have always found that the easiest way to describe the Neutral is this, It helps keep the pressure in your lines constant, and is the return path for the current traveling into your house or business or plant to flow back to the source.
Very informative, I always try to dispell the myth that the N is not a conductor and advise the do it yourself types and greens to never cross the neutral, It can kill you! Treat it as a live conductor. It carries the unbalanced load back to the T/F and if you cross the path the current will use you to go to ground.
Seen a good deal of comments here. He explains it very well in this video. I started out 3 phase industrial, actually generating the electricity. So, single phase was a mystery to me. After spending some time doing residential contracting, I can tell you this guy is mostly on point. For all you helpers/apprentices out there. Please understand that under normal conditions your bare ground wire should never have energy in it ever. The whole reason your neutrals and grounds are bound together in the service (Or first means of disconnect) is that it is a shorter distance to discharge unwanted electrical surges which is the whole means of your grounds in the first place, as the distance to the transformer. Having Neutrals and grounds bound together at the service serve this purpose and this purpose alone......there again under normal circumstances.
No one can learn a DAMN thing if they read most of the comments because every body has their own opinion. It's a good thing you people don't teach. I personally think he had a very good explanation . I know electricians that cannot explain a neutral.
Becky..you are so right .. He did a good job ,,I browse this every so often to get a laugh.. And also to see if anyone mentions reactive power factors .. Power utilities are very concerned about this to have a balanced system hence less induction on their generation end..google leading/ lagging power factors.. Oh well these answers some have merit but working in the industry for over 35 yrs it makes me laugh ..
@Donald Kasper Bill provided a clear explanation of the neutral to the center tap of the pole transformer. You are talking about neutrals to the panel, which in reality are just return conductors for 120v loads, which are called neutrals since they terminate at the neutral bar of the panel. Current for 240v loads do not use the neutral, only the inbalance of L1 and L2 (120v) load currents provide neutral current to the center tap of the transformer.
Thank you. I agree mostly with what you said here. I am quite surprised with the controversy that it raised. The neutral does indeed carry the difference current between the loads on L1 and L2. This can be easily and positively verified using an ammeter for anyone who doesn’t believe it. Another benefit of this setup (when the neutral is properly bonded to ground in the main residential panel) is that it essentially limits the potential with respect to ground to 120 volts. So, if you accidentally touch L1 or L2 you can get a 120 volt shock if you are grounded. That is, the resistance to ground is small enough that enough current can flow to shock you. This is why birds on a wire are generally safe. The wire may be energized at 25KV (or more) but with no path to ground (air is a very poor conductor) there is no current flow and hence, no shock to the bird. Getting a 240V shock is much less likely because of this bonding. You have to simultaneously come into contact with L1 and L2 to get a 240 volt shock.
If you come from a DC background (electronics), this is analogous to connecting two batteries in series, and measuring the voltages between both ends, and then putting the BLACK (ground) meter probe in between the two batteries. In one direction, you'll see 1/2 the total DC voltage, and in the other direction (red on the other end), you see a negative 1/2 of the total DC voltage. So in this case, "ground" is not really DC ground, it's positive with respect to the first battery, and negative with respect to the other. With your meter, you've created a voltage divider. The A/C/ center-tapped transformer in this video is very similar to that. It's not zero (0) volts. It's just a return path for either leg of the a/c current. And yes, it IS hot (powered). So neutral is NOT zero volts. It's just a pathway to complete the circuit, and it DOES carry current. The reason it's connected to physical earth at the main breaker / box, is to provide a shunted pathway under fault conditions. That's it. The earth/ground wire on an A/C is just a safety valve - nothing more. Normally, it plays no role in the circuit's operation. That's why you sometimes see the bare copper wire driven in to the ground, why it makes sense that Neutral can be connected (bonded) to this shunt. The resistance to earth/ground is SO HIGH, current flows normally through the neutral path back to the transformer, and ignores this Earth / Ground pathway.
So ... the term "ground" in DC has a completely different meaning than it does in AC. It's is confusing, to say the least. I personally blame it on Tesla and Franklin. lol
Ima SuperPerson No a ground is a ground., In DC the ground completes the circuit. Where ad AC., the neutral completes the circuit., and NEC requires a separate dedicated grounding wire.
I am not sure if I follow, but Neutral can be connected to ground, and ground resistance IS HIGH, so current flows through neutral? Isn't ground resistance always lowest so voltage goes there first?
@@PoProstu_Ameryka c thrs pos voltage neg voltage so is current flow one direction or other as alos thrs neg charges nd pos nd load always comes in between 2 do work... U need a source for electrons nd that's ground... Resistance just gives the path for current 2 flow nd voltage makes resistance drop nd vice versa
Knowing this information allowed me to troubleshoot a wiring issue at work. After an equipment upgrade, there were electrical issues immediately. With the equipment off, I checked at the main disconnect switch from L1 to ground and from the Neutral to ground, I should have read no volts on the neutral side but saw 120. When the electrician reconnected his wires, the lug on the neutral side was actually on the insulation and not on the actual copper wire. So instead of the voltage going back to the source on the neutral it was going straight to ground.
The neutral is a grounded wire, as it is grounded at both the transformer and at the service disconnect, and is in fact referred to as such in the NEC. It should not be confused with the grounding conductor (equipment grounding). By grounding the neutral, it prevents any potential to exist between the two, as well as stabilizes the voltage between the phase conductors and ground. Just try disconnecting the neutral from ground sometime on a transformer and watch the phase voltages to ground start to move around. Otherwise, an informative video. It should be evident from your drawing that the neutral is merely a tap from the center of the secondary winding that is grounded.
Jonathan Woolbright Completely wrong. Utilities ground the neutral points of their transformers every time. Electric services are grounded at the first overcurrent device location. NO DANGER! The video is correct. Center tap on the transformer is the neutral.
Jonathan Woolbright. Really? I request that you offer some idea as to why you are saying I am incorrect. Maybe you can tell me your experience or some NEC facts please.
Jonathan Woolbright You have some training on how to install electrical systems. Good. Doug's original comment is absolutely correct. I am a PE and have been designing premise electrical systems for electrical contractors since 1983. I have all my code books since 1983. I have designed electrical systems for residential, commercial, and industrial premises. But do not take my word for this, I could still be wrong! One of the leading authorities on NEC has videos on you tube. Please see the links. If they do not work, search for " grounding and bonding". Find the Mike Holt videos. He will explain how grounding works! I hope this helps you understand. Most electricians are taught how to do installs, but not why to do it. th-cam.com/video/3vvvv5QVZoA/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/GO2C0tG6hoI/w-d-xo.html
Jonathan Woolbright I should have asked, what part of the world do you live in? May make a difference in what the utility company does, and terminology.
Jonathan Woolbright Did you only watch the first one? The second one shows NEC250.24. In the slide it shows what you were talking about. The statement you made was the neutral is grounded at utility OR at the main panel, not both. It is not at one or the other. That is why I originally said you were incorrect. It is always NEC required in the premise electrical system. You stated it would be dangerous. I'm not understanding how you think if grounded at the neutral twice is dangerous. Can you answer this question? If an electric heater, correctly wired with equipment ground conductor to the case, has a hot conductor short out to the case, where does the current flow to? Starting at the case, through the equipment ground to the main panel ground/neutral bar. Where does it go from there?
The purpose of neutral is to allow you to tap off 120V from a 240V secondary. Otherwise, you wouldn't be able to run 120V loads like the refrigerator you're drawing on. And yes, the neutral has something to do with ground because it's physically connected to ground at the panel.
I've been making hobby electronics for years and studying electricity on my own time on the side of my IT engineering studies, but neutral was always a bit confusing to me since obviously in an AC system polarity doesn't matter so I just couldn't really wrap my head around it as some people call neutral "0" and that kind of thing
You’re not alone. Conceptualizing an ac circuit with the neutral still confuses me though I too understand it’s “the return.” It helps to think of the hot conductors as pushing the electrons through the load to the neutral side and then pulling the electrons from the neutral side back to hot.
Bill you are absolutely correct. Actually in transformer HT is stepped down to LT. HT is delta and LT is star. Star has center as neutral wire and rest you have shared in your video. Thanks a lot.
Einstein once said "The definition of genius is taking the complex and making it simple.". I'm an electrician and I am so tired of hearing teachers talk in jibberish, thats why I'm back to square one learning the basics. I've gone through 5 videos and forums and they are trying to teach rocket science. This video you provided is a simple yet informative piece of information easy for the common ear to understand and that is an effective teacher. Thank you
IBEW Local 197 member for 15 years here. The neutral per NEC code is referred to as the grounded conductor the ground per NEC is referred to as the grounding conductor. They are called so because they are bonded at the first means of Disconnect and bonded at the Transformer. You are correct in saying that the neutrals return path of current, but it can carry much more than the unbalanced load as well. I respect what you're doing and people need to learn. But be careful with teaching. Good luck to you
Your explanation is difficult to understand for someone new to electricity. I like the presenter's explanation. It helps those of us who are interested and want to learn.
Training from my father who is an electrical engineer says the white wire is current carrying ground. The bare copper wire is non-current carrying ground.
Your father is partially correct as the term of a neutral, is a return path to the supply source, not ground. In a perfect balanced linear load, there should be zero current on the neutral because L1 & L2 are 180° out of phase. But we dont live in a perfect world and the neutral does carry current. The reason to connect it to earth ground is so a human does not complete that circuit. The ground is merely a safety issue.
Great explanation of the neutral or grounded conductor and what it is for. To this day I still here people saying voltage levels as 110 and 220 when in all actuality common American voltage levels to the average residence are 120 and 240 VAC from the transformer on the pole.
Single and three phase systems do not necessarily need a neutral, they do need a return path but in a 240 1/0 volt or 3/0 system the return can be the conductor when the polarity changes direction
@John, only single phase is the only sitation where the neutral is absolutely required. 2 phase and 3 phase can do without, as long as the load is equal on all phases. Here in Europe 99% of the home appliances run off single phase 230 volts (1 phase and 1 neutral).
here in the US we have 120v per leg x2 legs in residential so if you have a heading element per sae that is 240v it would be 1/0 but 2 legs, we do have 2/0 in some older steel plants but its not common and is almost entirely phased out,( im an industrial electrician) in my plant we have 3/0 208v/240v/277/and 480v
The ground ALSO stops any current from floating ON a fixture where it would shock you if you touched it and YOU were grounded,.. This would be the MOST important aspect of a ground,
The Ground is made of copper too. Real shiny looks like copper as as matter of fact. I have my grounds all running to my Bed Frame. (On my wife's side of course) just in case never knows these days.
I have been told grounds should be ran to as grounding rod also made of copper I always thought that was a stupid place so like I said before ran them all to bed frame. The dirt is no place to just throw away a sudden jolt of electricity from a strike we got to use that stuff!
I want to know why the current doesn't flow through the neutral and make it a live wire because it is the first path to follow for current. And why not making the live wire as neutral for that circumstances.
Although the neutral wire is not the same as the ground wire, it _is_ grounded at the main panel for the following reasons: 1. The grounding of the neutral wire is what completes the safety-ground circuit, allowing leakage current from any connected appliance ground wire to flow back to the transformer; without this connection, the safety-ground circuit simply *would not function* _(i.e., There would be no safety-ground circuit!)._ 2. This connection would also limit the electric shock voltage one could receive (in most cases) to no more than 120 V. Although this wouldn't apply to someone who accidentally comes into contact with both L1 & L2 _at the same time,_ it would definitely apply to someone who comes between L1 *or* L2 and ground. Otherwise, if there happens to be a ground-fault in L2, and someone comes between L1 and ground (or vice versa), s/he would receive a *240-V shock-more than enough to kill.* This is because the GF electric current would be able to flow from L2 to ground, and from ground, through him/her, to L1 (and vice-versa, since it's AC).
Good answer, but when I was in school I was taught that it only takes one-tenth of an amp to stop your heart if your heart is in the path that the electricity takes through your body should you become the ground! One-tenth of an amp can be produced with only 30 volts AC. The "electric" impulse that one's body produces to make a human heart beat is very weak.....relatively speaking. So, 120V, or 240V is FAR more voltage than is necessary to kill anyone if ...........they are shocked "just right" and the voltage travels the path to their heart, e.g taking hold of two conductors with each hand.
@@MarkMcPeak5895 What you're saying is indeed correct. I would even argue that it would be possible to stop someone's heart with _less_ than 30 V; it would depend on the body's electrical resistance as well as the path the current takes through it. The lower the resistance, the higher the current, according to _Ohm's Law._ So, if someone were to come into contact with a live conductor while grounded outside on a hot, muggy day, that person would be far more likely to be killed than if s/he were to do so in a dry environment. However, it's not really voltage or current that kills; it's the *product* of the two (i.e., power) that kills (i.e., P = E * I). And since power varies directly to the _square_ of the voltage (i.e., P = E² / R), if you double the voltage, you are increasing the power *four times.* Therefore, a person who comes into contact with 240 V would be four times as likely to be killed than if s/he were to come into contact with 120 V.
Tell that to anybody with an electric fence! Voltage doesn't kill, amperage does. Any decent fence charger puts out over 5,000 volts and people play with them all the time. Automotive spark plugs run at 25,000 volts and loads of poeple get shocked by them quite often. Normal static discharge is 4,000-35,000 volts when you walk over a carpet with socks and then shake hands.
@@SaneAsylum It's the *product* of voltage _times_ current (i.e., power) that kills. Although one can build-up a voltage of 30 kV by just walking across a carpet, the human body has a _very_ low capacitance, so it cannot store enough of a charge to be dangerous once it's neutralized by touching something like a doorknob; the current would be _way_ too low to electrocute you, because the quantity of stored electrons across your body would be _tiny._ However, if you happen to be handling sensitive electronic components (e.g., memory modules, microprocessors) while being charged-up to that voltage, any sudden discharge through those components could destroy them. That's why in an electronic manufacturing environment, ESD prevention measures must be taken.
Woooo At last I can undestand, I had to watch it in english because in spanish the electric science terms are too dificult even for me that I am a spanish speaker. But it also has to do with the person who explains it... I thank uuuuu so much
at one point your are right , but i would not use the word ,: : my version" , I have been hearing this all my live from electricians. there is more technical issues behind the neutral..... Neutral is a intencional name given to the center tap of a transformer, but is relative only to the lines in this case A, B. in a single phase system , A,B ,C on a three phase wye System, Delta systems have no neutral , only in some exceptions , in USA, is common to have a delta system with neutral, however the voltage to each phase is different, one of the phases is higher ,,,,, again its not a absolute neutral , becomes neutral only when you intentionally the center tap is connected to ground , then it becomes neutral , because there will be no potential between ground and "neutral " , But dont think because is neutral it has no potencial, resuming neutral is only a given name to the center tap of the transformer , there are codes for electricians to follow , for safer electrical installations.
@red head, no, You are false. Electricity goes to ground because the source is grounded, at the transformers. So the electricity travels through the ground back to the power station. Edward has his facts straight.
You didn't mention that the voltage between L1 & L2 is approx. 230vac. The 'neutral' provides the center tap (split) to allow you to have 2 115vac circuits for lights & small appliances while still having the 223vac circuits for you dryer, water heater, etc...
Yes. All that talk about balancing the load is fine and all, but the neutral wire allows you to have two separate voltages without having two separate sets of cables from two separate transformers.
To: Rich Ags. The two wires you refer to connect across to the other side Buss bar to ground the panel, but this ONLY happens at the panel...not out at the various circuit hook ups.
Si ese es el caso,tu panel esta mal combinado.tal como te respondieron,la barra del neutral debe estar aislada,mientras no sucede asi con la del ground
You only connect neutral and ground, where required by the NEC, which is at the main service disconnect. Every piece of equipment connected to the feeders and branch circuits that come off your main panel, keep neutral and ground isolated from one another. Notice that the neutral bar is mounted on plastic spacers from the metal enclosure of the panelboard? Notice that the ground bar is directly mounted to the metal enclosure? The product is sold with a bonding jumper between that might or might not be installed, depending on the panel's application. If this were a subpanel (i.e. a smaller panel that is supplied from a feeder circuit connected to the main panel), you would not install the jumper. If this were the main panel, you would install the jumper. We connect neutral and ground, in order to set the neutral at the same absolute voltage as ground. If you touch neutral while also touching ground or building steel, you shouldn't get shocked. Neutral is at the same absolute voltage as ground, and carries the imbalance of current back to the source. Current should go back on the neutral, but not in a parallel path on the ground and all metal stuff in the building that isn't intended to carry current. That's why the N-G bond is exclusive, and only done where required by the NEC.
Rich Ags I saw that you got comments with no real answer. Here is the answer to your question simplified. Forget the word "Ground" for a minute. Really has nothing to do with the question. If a Conductor that has voltage on it from let's say a 20 amp single pole breaker touches the metal box of your clothes washer, (short circuit) there will be a large amount of current going through the "equipment ground" bare copper Conductor in your question. When the current gets to your panel, it then goes to the neutral bar. Then it goes out to the utility transformer, through the coil, back to your house and inside the breaker, this current magnetically opens the 20 amp breaker. Hope this helps you understand.
Here's my problem with this explanation, in every service box that I have seen over many years, all of the neutral and ground wires are tied together. I usually, also only see the 2 120v lines from the service pole, with neutral and the ground both connected to an actual ground rod that is in the ground near the service entrance.
That bridge allows the ground wire to "deflect" the charge from lightening away from the Neutral wire, which would've otherwise been carried into the house and lead to failure of all connected loads
For the past 20 years or so of doing panel upgrades the inspectors require me as per NEC to have a ground bus separate from neutral bus on the new panel. The old panels almost always have grounds and neutrals on the same bus. As someone else mentioned, this does deflect lightning away from the neutral, but more importantly it allows arc fault breakers to be used for all living spaces which is NEC that has gradually been phased in to use and is now standard in almost all 50 states.
It does not matter that the ground and neutral are, electrically, the same point. The ground is not a current carrying conductor in NORMAL conditions and is not necessary to the load. In fact, home used to not have a ground conductor at all and only had two-prong outlets. Even today many appliances do not have grounded cords and are only two-prong. Though you may not see an actual neutral wire in the distribution panel, I assure you there is one in the meter and you have a feed-through meter were the neutral appears either as a bus on the right or a bare wire, which people would assume is a ground.
Hey Bill, thanks for the video. It might help to clarify that the reason the current through the neutral wire is the subtraction of the two currents, is because the voltages are out of phase. A lot of the comments look confused, citing Kirchoff's law and whatnot.
No neutral on utilities poles? Neutral and ground wire are bonded in the service entrance panel. Utilities are in violation of code: 33.2 Ground or Earth as a Conductor Ground or earth shall not be used as a normal return or circuit conductor. In direct current supply systems or in single phase or polyphase supply systems, a neutral or any other conductor shall be used under normal use as a return or circuit conductor; however, the grounding of the neutral or any other conductor is not permitted as a normal return or circuit conductor. The neutral or any other conductor is permitted to be grounded only for the purposes of stabilization and protection. Note:
John Puccetti yes, but if I'm not mistaken., it's saying you must have a dedicated neutral wire to complete the circuit., and not use a ground wire as a neutral wire. Don't get confused on the fact that the neutral wire is grounded. Different then the fact that the grounding wire is dedicated as a ground to earth.
John Puccetti in example, if you wiring a light., and you have a hot wire, but no neutral., you Can Not Ground the neutral wire from the light to something metal to complete the circuit. Because that neutral wire can and will become energized to the metal object. Which is why we ground the metal objects and run a dedicated neutral wire.
Oh, & please also explain what happens if you put a switch on the Neutral (downstream from the Load). I bet some idiot out there has done this very deadly thing!
In our country, we use a poor 2-wire single phase system.. The weird thing that happens is that when I touch one of the two wires while my feet on the ground, I get shock.. It seems like they have connected one of the wires to ground so when I touch the other wire I literally complete the circuit.. The question is, why do they do this damn sh*t !!!
What country is that? Would seem to me perhaps a 3rd world country, but hey I could be wrong. Britian and Aus/Kiwi's use what? 240V 3 prong outlet. I always wondered what the phases meant. 3 phase drop etc, just sinewaves 3 phases/signals.
That is exactly why. Old wiring in the United States was like this and many people actually had a pole in the back yard going into the ground (TO GROUND) the connection. so you had one positive lead current coming in, consumed and to ground.
Electrical Engineer here. I feel compelled to write this due to some dangerous concepts that I've read here and also listened at the video. Here, at Argentina, we use MONOPHASE 220 VAC for most of households and TRIPHASE 380 VAC for a minor portion and for small factories that don't require a service company's transformer at the premises (this is only for high end consumers). At every plug within a house, you have three DIFFERENT connections: 1. LIVE WIRE: It carries 220 VAC to the plugged device, and supply the current needed. 2. NEUTRAL WIRE: It poses 0 VAC (if the installation is correctly done) and is the return path for the current supplied through the LIVE WIRE. This NEUTRAL POLE can be grounded at the entrance of the house OR within the block under service of the electric company supplier. It HAS TO have 0 VAC of difference with the third pole, the EARTH POLE. 3. EARTH or GROUND WIRE: This wire CARRY NO CURRENT, unless you have a LOSS PROBLEM at you installation. The current that flows over this wire is ANY DIFFERENCE between LIVE and NEUTRAL wires, and should be kept below 15 or 20 milliamperes. To make your installation safe for humans and pets, in the case you have a loss somewhere (refrigerator, desktop computer, etc), you HAVE TO INSTALL a differential disyuntor (a magnetic key-I don't know the name in english, but is very common). This differential switch measures any difference between the incoming and outgoing current (through LIVE and NEUTRAL). It can be calibrated to set the maximum difference allowed (here is 30 milliamps). If you have a LOSS at a given device (say the refrigerator), the CASE has an AC potential different from zero. If you touch the device being on your barefoot, then the unbalance TRY TO FIND equilibrium by DISCHARGING the additional current (not consumed by the device) through your body to the EARTH under your feet. This is called electrocution and can happen if you touch a wall as well, specially if there is humidity. With the differential switch protecting your home at the entrance, any current above the threshold you set instantaneously trigger the switch and cut the AC all over the house. An extreme case is trying to use an AC powered device while taking a bath. In this case, a LOT OF CURRENT would flow through you, killing you unless your installation is protected with the differential switch. If you have a house powered with TRIPHASIC AC, then you have to install one differential switch per phase, at the very entrance of your house. NEUTRAL, in the case of triphasic AC, is wired from the center of the star configuration of the secundary of the company's transformer down to EARTH. Even in this case, the EARTH wiring (ground wiring) has to be present at every plug into the premises and has to have a SEPARATE wiring path towards the entrance. NEVER, EVER do the crime of wiring togheter Ground and Neutral. They are conceptually different. The GROUND or EARTH connection is there to help you or your pets from being electrocuted by using a differential switch. After the differential switch, you can use as many thermical switches to prevent accidents in the case of shortcircuits. But remember: a 20 amperes thermal switch cut off the current if this limit is exceded, but this kind of switch will not save you from electrocution. That is the job of the differential switch. Hope this can be useful.
I have a point of view for you, here in Serbia, we have 3 leads, a 3x400v system, where 400V/AC is voltage between leads, and 230V is from any of the leads to the NEUTRAL. So, it doesn't necessarily mean that voltage of N iz zero. In the fact in maby cases it is not. The difference of potential is what counts. If you experience the issue which is called "losing of neutral conductor" than it refers to cases when people substituted neutral with real zero voltage conductor, such as ground and than if the neutral voltage was 40V, they get voltage of 270V on their installation, and destroyed much of the connected devices.
As I have always understood it, the neutral is grounded to stabilize the voltage on line to neutral loads. Try this experiment. Use a transformer to create an ungrounded three wire system with a center tapped neutral conductor. Put a significant induced load between one of the phase conductors and the neutral. (Take an electric drill with a large bit and sink into some oak.) Measure the voltage across all conductors before, during, and after. You will see large voltage drops and spikes. Then, perform the same experiment with the neutral grounded. You will see only tiny ripples in the voltage. The ground provides a reference point, like an anchor, is how it was explained to me by an engineer many years ago when I was learning the basics. If you had an ungrounded neutral in your house, your computer and other electronics would go nuts whenever you turned on your microwave or cut some wood on your basement table saw.
jim byr For safety reasons for your home appliances. If a lightening happens, the current from the lightening will go through the neutral at your power post outside to the ground,where it is to neutral at the panel, and then to earth where it is discharged. To verify what I am saying, check your home panel out, you will notice that they are not connected. Because if they are, you will get shocked if you put your hand on a running washer for example.
You are correct good example there is also i think another deeper although small additional use for the nuetral and that's harmonics. DC loads, ballasts , I'm thinking led drivers also cause this effect and the transformation loses half the wave which increases nuetral numbers
Does the user pay for that unused 2 amps that return to the transformer, or are they deducted for? What does the power company service meter on the house show? 10 amps used or 12? thanks!
see Gerald Morin on youtube for a discussion on that topic. oh and my old house only has 2 wires comming of the transformer. whats up with that? ya thats right. resistance on the ground instead of metering unused electricity on a nuetral? is this possible? I dont know
you dont get charge for amps, what yo pay for is the watts that you use so you wouldnt be paying for those amps going back on the neutral,since they didnt get used that means they didnt generate any wattage usage to get charge for..
Watts (power consumption) by any circuit is just a derivative of the current (amperage) and voltage. Period. If you know the amps, you also know the watts. Don't confuse others just because you do not know the formulae.
Finally someone who is willing to share his knowledge without trying to confuse you in the process.
Hahahaha this is so relatable…
@@JacobJoyce1 lol what like guys intentionally trying to make things complex to sound smart? run into it all the time on the job and it angers me
@@mikeyswift2010 yeah it’s very annoying. You can just tell they’re subtly trying to blow sunshine up their own asses.
Thank you for your simple explanation that us non-electric people understand how home current flows.
This helped me tremendously. An instructor told me that the electricity goes to the neutral buss. I wanted to know where it went from there. He kept saying it goes the neutral buss and nowhere else on the first panel. I said on the first panel, the ground and the neutral busses are connected - does it go to ground? Answer - no it goes to the neutral buss. He thought I was a complete idiot. There is indeed a return line back to the mains He told me "no It stays in the neutral buss" I knew there had to be a way that it went somewhere instead of just magically disappearing. He thought I was mentally deficient that I could not understand it just went to the neutral buss. Thanks so much for the simple explanation about this. I feel much better knowing I am not crazy in my thinking that their has to be more than the "magic" neutral buss.
Go back to your instructor and explain what he just said and tell him it doesn’t hang out at the neutral buss it goes back to the transformer. Few times in life you get to see the all knowing stand there in disbelief that he was schooled by the student!
There are different levels of understanding which sound like different answers. When I was in school I asked a wireman to explain things to me. They gave simple (incomplete) answers that helped me to grasp difficult concepts. In time as your understanding gets better your answers and questions become more complete. You can understand what an engineer is trying to say...sometimes. This is a great video that answers a difficult concept in a simple way. Yes, it gets more difficult than this but for the curious beginner it is perfect.
I like that description of the neutral. Well said without getting too complicated. But I humbly and respectfully submit that so much more goes on with the ground than lighting protection.
Explaining complex topics in simple terms is a rare skill. Thanks!
I don't know how much circuit analysis is taught in the trade. The fact that so many electricians (at least new ones) assume right off the bat that neutral does not carry current or has voltage makes me wonder if they even teach circuit analysis at all.
Im at the end of a 5 yr apprenticeship & your video was the first time Ive ever heard a concise, comprehensible definition for the Neutral. So thanks 4 that. BTW, please make more videos so I can get on with my career. lol
Wow @ 5 years you'd think you'd know this. I thought the elec app was 4 years, atleast here in Canada maybe its different.
So the N just balances out the 240V split to make 120V, isnt that what the coil is?
rita wix why eletrician needs to go for apprenticeship? I'm thinking in enroll in an eletrician school. did you went to school and after became aprendice? so you can be licensed is that how it works?
Mark M No not really
Because you get paid, that's why.
Hey ! I want to know, from a single socket for live wire, how does electricity change its polarity ? For instance, if positive charge is coming from live wire, neutral should be negative in order to complete the flow of current, shouldn't it? And if negative charge is coming from the live wire, then neutral wire should be positive terminal, shouldn't it?
That was excellent, clear and concise. Though most of my work was done with DC circuits, I was taught to think of AC neutral as "the return", and that's what I always call it just to keep its real function clear to myself.
You are absolutely correct about the neutral, and one of the very few explanations that get it right. Excellent job.!
AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME. Simple. Short, no B.S. or talk for an hour; right to the point and clear, anyone can understand it.
It’s the little videos that you find thinking no one has made one for your wondering mind before going to sleep. Thank you.
2 minutes and 10 seconds. Short and to the point. by far the best explanation for the neutral I've found. Keep the videos coming
That would be great. However, Bill’s no longer with us.
Great explanation Bill! The neutral carries the unbalanced load back to the transformer. I like it!
You should teach, if not already. It took you 2 minutes, with a simple explanation, everyone got it, and that's it. Excellent. Others would need 15 minutes for the same thing.
I was shocked at the animus expressed in some of these comments. I read them again and I was revolted at the number of pedants here. I’m struggling to stay neutral when I read the angry posts and replies. Were I not so well grounded, I could sense a potential in me to take a side. Ohm my God, I’ve never seen such resistance to a simplified video trying to educate. The detractors with their rancorous comments impede the educational process until finally impedence is too much for the current commenters to overcome. Watt age are you people? I’m sure with some of you this is just a phase, but these constant negative comments should terminate. Take a positive attitude-you conduit.
Ha, ha, you so funny! I am LMAO and I'm with you. People, cool your jets!
I think you might be the king of puns. Lol
Watt ???
capnbobretired 🤣🤣🤣🤣
😲YOU BETTER SWITCH AND TRANSFORM YOUR ATTITUDE AROUND REAL QUICK, SIR! 😲OR I'M GONNA KICK YOU IN THE JOULES 'TIL IT HERTZ!!!! 😲YOU HAPPY NOW THAT YOU GOT ME ALL AMPED UP??!??!?
😲HUH??? 😲ARE YOU?!?!?....................
i'ze sawwee😟!!....i'ze dint meanda yell😢😔
It's a nice explanation I can show to people who say it doesn't matter if you swap active and neutral. I'm like whaaaat?
I've been trying to get a straight answer on what a neutral wire does for a while. This was the best , and most simple explanation I've come across. Thank you.
That's one of the most coherent explanations I've ever heard... Easy and simple to understand... I wish my instructions had your ability to break something like this down, your simple description explains so much... And I'm in my second year as an apprentice with IBEW, and believe me alot of us are still lost as to how it actually works....Thank you
I second this comment. FFS why can't someone this articulate explain ALL the concepts so simply.
The people smart enough to explain the mysterious neutral are to smart to explain it to anyone who is smart enough to understand it. I thank the gentleman for trying.
We really enjoy your thoroughness in explaining not just how to do/repair something, but that you explain the theory/reasoning behind how it works. We hope that you have many more videos to come. Thanks so much for helping us homeowners who are clearly neophytes when it comes to home wiring.
roberta pierce, I wish. Unfortunately Bill passed in his sleep the same year he posted this video.
TY Im just starting me first year electrical and was so confused on what the neutral wire did. This made things click so thank you
Absolutely correct;
- The neutral carries the difference between phases L1 and L2, as you showed..
- Since, the 5amp load on L1 does NOT flow back the neutral, instead it flows on L2 as the return path.
- But, L2 has a 7amp load, not all of it can return on L1, so the difference (2amps) will flow on the neutral..
This is because L1 and L2 are 180 degrees out of phase, (L1 is pushing electrons while L2 pulling electrons in 1/60th of a second), hence you have a push/pull arrangement between the 2 phases, and that's why appliances, like you dryer use BOTH phases to provide 240v for the heater/motor, and it works..
(Also, NEVER assume that the Neutral is not carrying current, so NEVER touch the neutral with your hand. It can flow between your hand (Neutral), through your body and your feet (ground). )
I hope this helps..
L1 and L2 are not phases. It is single phase. L1 to L2 is 240 volts with or without a neutral conductor. The whole 180 degree out of phase comment only applies if you state “On an oscilloscope”. There are three sine waves that all start and end at exactly the same time in the system. One is 240 volts, and two are 120 volts. Remember, they all start and finish in the same direction at exactly the same time. Except on oscilloscopes.
I think it is helpful to realize that circuits feeding from one hot leg (L1) are actually in series with those feeding from the L2 leg.
So,( 2) 120 volt circuits in series are actually 2 separate loads of a 240 volt circuit. The difference between those loads is the current which then flows through the neutral wire. "Balancing" your breaker panel means getting the current draw on one side to approximately match the draw on the other side, minimizing the current through the neutral wire.
Thank you. That makes sense
He said that
Wrong
@@SteveStowell which part? you think in a balanced circuit the neutral could not be removed entirely?
Despite all these stupid comments here, sir I wanna appreciate you for taking some time out to explain something. God bless you
This was a perfect explanation, I was in the trades for years and no electrician has ever been able to make me understand this. Thank you.
Wow ... very first subscription in TH-cam. I'm 53 and done allot of trades (not an electrician) and you are the best communicator and teacher. Very clear and concise
I'm a licensed electrical engineer in Texas and I totally like your explaination as it's spot on. This also works for a three phase system say a 208y/120v distribution system. Your AB or AC or CB phase will get you 208v single phase but any phase to neutral gets you 120v and of course if you use all three phases you get 208v three phase. On a delta setup its different but you get the picture. A neutral allows you to tap and use different voltages.
At a substation there is a step - down trasformer which steps down 3 wires line high voltage "delta" to low voltage "star" so called "delta/star" 4 wires balanced circuit.
The fourth wire is centrally connected and is called "neutral". With 208 volts single phase voltage line to line , and 110 volts line to neutral. When the circuit is
balanced the neutral wire doesn't carry carrent. In case of unbalanced circuit
neutral wire will carry current. Here wiil be needed the ground...The ground is not a wire ...it is a real ground. At a substation the neutral wire is grounded.It has a real ground. At distribution circuits "ground " is a cold water pipe and connected
to neutral in a distribution panel.
I am not an electrical engineer...I am a lisenced plant electrician.
@@carlmarx780 we have a neutral ring bus in our cable chambers that are bonded to ground rods, the concentric neutrals and lead sheaths of the cables get bonded to neutral after we splice them.
please, share your experience. I want a smart switch to connect and it requires N. I don't have one and it seems like switches like that need N to power themselves (to have wireless connection and so on). Can I power them up from hot lead and is it safe? So, to be clear, I want to connect hot lead both into L and N sockets.
I found NO ERRORS in your explanation. Thanks for posting.
thank you. Everyday I learn something new about electricity.
I truly love the way you've explained this. Very exhaustive.
That's exactly how I was taught. Good explanation.
Thanks from Palestine 🇵🇸
that was super fucking fantastic!! short and simple and perfect. thank you very much for not trying to sound smarter than the other guys so we could all understand
So helpful. I appreciate the way that you explain.
Im trying to understand a bit about electrics ,and I very much appreciate your vidio Bill thank you for your effort ,seems like good logic to me
That explain it to me , the best I have ever heard because I understood what you said !! I listened to other people’s explanations and did not understand a word
i love the refrigerator whiteboard
lol
keen observer j
Hahaha, i just noticed
And he got a cold beer after
Something about the refrigerators. My professor used to draw stuff on our fridge in the shop as well. Coincidence? Or a trend?
Just seen your vid and my comment is a couple of years late, but as an Industrial Electrician, I have always found that the easiest way to describe the Neutral is this, It helps keep the pressure in your lines constant, and is the return path for the current traveling into your house or business or plant to flow back to the source.
Very informative, I always try to dispell the myth that the N is not a conductor and advise the do it yourself types and greens to never cross the neutral, It can kill you! Treat it as a live conductor. It carries the unbalanced load back to the T/F and if you cross the path the current will use you to go to ground.
Antny wouldn’t it use you to complete the circuit and go back to the source? Why would it want to go to ground)
@@kjacoby good question bro 😎 however no one ☝️ is saying , so I guess we’ll never know 😵💫
Seen a good deal of comments here. He explains it very well in this video. I started out 3 phase industrial, actually generating the electricity. So, single phase was a mystery to me. After spending some time doing residential contracting, I can tell you this guy is mostly on point. For all you helpers/apprentices out there. Please understand that under normal conditions your bare ground wire should never have energy in it ever. The whole reason your neutrals and grounds are bound together in the service (Or first means of disconnect) is that it is a shorter distance to discharge unwanted electrical surges which is the whole means of your grounds in the first place, as the distance to the transformer. Having Neutrals and grounds bound together at the service serve this purpose and this purpose alone......there again under normal circumstances.
No one can learn a DAMN thing if they read most of the comments because every body has their own opinion. It's a good thing you people don't teach. I personally think he had a very good explanation . I know electricians that cannot explain a neutral.
Becky..you are so right .. He did a good job ,,I browse this every so often to get a laugh..
And also to see if anyone mentions reactive power factors ..
Power utilities are very concerned about this to have a balanced system hence less induction on their generation end..google leading/ lagging power factors..
Oh well these answers some have merit but working in the industry for over 35 yrs it makes me laugh ..
They're not electricians if they can't explain the purpose of the neutral , that's one of the first lessons.
I guess I'm in the engineers dept. We're just talking about a neutral.
@@tomriggs2637 Don't laugh too loud power factor has no bearing on the purpose of the neutral.
@Donald Kasper Bill provided a clear explanation of the neutral to the center tap of the pole transformer. You are talking about neutrals to the panel, which in reality are just return conductors for 120v loads, which are called neutrals since they terminate at the neutral bar of the panel. Current for 240v loads do not use the neutral, only the inbalance of L1 and L2 (120v) load currents provide neutral current to the center tap of the transformer.
Thank you. I agree mostly with what you said here. I am quite surprised with the controversy that it raised. The neutral does indeed carry the difference current between the loads on L1 and L2. This can be easily and positively verified using an ammeter for anyone who doesn’t believe it. Another benefit of this setup (when the neutral is properly bonded to ground in the main residential panel) is that it essentially limits the potential with respect to ground to 120 volts. So, if you accidentally touch L1 or L2 you can get a 120 volt shock if you are grounded. That is, the resistance to ground is small enough that enough current can flow to shock you. This is why birds on a wire are generally safe. The wire may be energized at 25KV (or more) but with no path to ground (air is a very poor conductor) there is no current flow and hence, no shock to the bird. Getting a 240V shock is much less likely because of this bonding. You have to simultaneously come into contact with L1 and L2 to get a 240 volt shock.
If you come from a DC background (electronics), this is analogous to connecting two batteries in series, and measuring the voltages between both ends, and then putting the BLACK (ground) meter probe in between the two batteries. In one direction, you'll see 1/2 the total DC voltage, and in the other direction (red on the other end), you see a negative 1/2 of the total DC voltage. So in this case, "ground" is not really DC ground, it's positive with respect to the first battery, and negative with respect to the other. With your meter, you've created a voltage divider. The A/C/ center-tapped transformer in this video is very similar to that. It's not zero (0) volts. It's just a return path for either leg of the a/c current. And yes, it IS hot (powered). So neutral is NOT zero volts. It's just a pathway to complete the circuit, and it DOES carry current. The reason it's connected to physical earth at the main breaker / box, is to provide a shunted pathway under fault conditions. That's it. The earth/ground wire on an A/C is just a safety valve - nothing more. Normally, it plays no role in the circuit's operation. That's why you sometimes see the bare copper wire driven in to the ground, why it makes sense that Neutral can be connected (bonded) to this shunt. The resistance to earth/ground is SO HIGH, current flows normally through the neutral path back to the transformer, and ignores this Earth / Ground pathway.
So ... the term "ground" in DC has a completely different meaning than it does in AC. It's is confusing, to say the least. I personally blame it on Tesla and Franklin. lol
Ima SuperPerson
No a ground is a ground.,
In DC the ground completes the circuit. Where ad AC., the neutral completes the circuit., and NEC requires a separate dedicated grounding wire.
I am not sure if I follow, but Neutral can be connected to ground, and ground resistance IS HIGH, so current flows through neutral? Isn't ground resistance always lowest so voltage goes there first?
@@PoProstu_Ameryka c thrs pos voltage neg voltage so is current flow one direction or other as alos thrs neg charges nd pos nd load always comes in between 2 do work... U need a source for electrons nd that's ground... Resistance just gives the path for current 2 flow nd voltage makes resistance drop nd vice versa
Knowing this information allowed me to troubleshoot a wiring issue at work. After an equipment upgrade, there were electrical issues immediately. With the equipment off, I checked at the main disconnect switch from L1 to ground and from the Neutral to ground, I should have read no volts on the neutral side but saw 120. When the electrician reconnected his wires, the lug on the neutral side was actually on the insulation and not on the actual copper wire. So instead of the voltage going back to the source on the neutral it was going straight to ground.
The neutral is a grounded wire, as it is grounded at both the transformer and at the service disconnect, and is in fact referred to as such in the NEC. It should not be confused with the grounding conductor (equipment grounding). By grounding the neutral, it prevents any potential to exist between the two, as well as stabilizes the voltage between the phase conductors and ground. Just try disconnecting the neutral from ground sometime on a transformer and watch the phase voltages to ground start to move around.
Otherwise, an informative video. It should be evident from your drawing that the neutral is merely a tap from the center of the secondary winding that is grounded.
Jonathan Woolbright Completely wrong. Utilities ground the neutral points of their transformers every time. Electric services are grounded at the first overcurrent device location. NO DANGER! The video is correct. Center tap on the transformer is the neutral.
Jonathan Woolbright. Really? I request that you offer some idea as to why you are saying I am incorrect. Maybe you can tell me your experience or some NEC facts please.
Jonathan Woolbright You have some training on how to install electrical systems. Good. Doug's original comment is absolutely correct. I am a PE and have been designing premise electrical systems for electrical contractors since 1983. I have all my code books since 1983. I have designed electrical systems for residential, commercial, and industrial premises. But do not take my word for this, I could still be wrong! One of the leading authorities on NEC has videos on you tube. Please see the links. If they do not work, search for " grounding and bonding". Find the Mike Holt videos. He will explain how grounding works! I hope this helps you understand. Most electricians are taught how to do installs, but not why to do it. th-cam.com/video/3vvvv5QVZoA/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/GO2C0tG6hoI/w-d-xo.html
Jonathan Woolbright I should have asked, what part of the world do you live in? May make a difference in what the utility company does, and terminology.
Jonathan Woolbright Did you only watch the first one? The second one shows NEC250.24. In the slide it shows what you were talking about. The statement you made was the neutral is grounded at utility OR at the main panel, not both. It is not at one or the other. That is why I originally said you were incorrect. It is always NEC required in the premise electrical system. You stated it would be dangerous. I'm not understanding how you think if grounded at the neutral twice is dangerous. Can you answer this question? If an electric heater, correctly wired with equipment ground conductor to the case, has a hot conductor short out to the case, where does the current flow to? Starting at the case, through the equipment ground to the main panel ground/neutral bar. Where does it go from there?
Best and simplest explanation ive heard. Thanks!
The purpose of neutral is to allow you to tap off 120V from a 240V secondary. Otherwise, you wouldn't be able to run 120V loads like the refrigerator you're drawing on. And yes, the neutral has something to do with ground because it's physically connected to ground at the panel.
Bill, thank you for explaining the role of the neutral wire!
I've been making hobby electronics for years and studying electricity on my own time on the side of my IT engineering studies, but neutral was always a bit confusing to me since obviously in an AC system polarity doesn't matter so I just couldn't really wrap my head around it as some people call neutral "0" and that kind of thing
You’re not alone. Conceptualizing an ac circuit with the neutral still confuses me though I too understand it’s “the return.” It helps to think of the hot conductors as pushing the electrons through the load to the neutral side and then pulling the electrons from the neutral side back to hot.
@@esl4058 is this why the neutral doesn't read any voltage on a meter? unless there's a problem?
@@jersmith1486Yes, if you measure between neutral and ground you should get less than 5v.
Bill you are absolutely correct. Actually in transformer HT is stepped down to LT. HT is delta and LT is star. Star has center as neutral wire and rest you have shared in your video. Thanks a lot.
So, it's like a relief valve for electricity?
Einstein once said "The definition of genius is taking the complex and making it simple.". I'm an electrician and I am so tired of hearing teachers talk in jibberish, thats why I'm back to square one learning the basics. I've gone through 5 videos and forums and they are trying to teach rocket science. This video you provided is a simple yet informative piece of information easy for the common ear to understand and that is an effective teacher. Thank you
Great explanation!
Nice and simple explanation. Thanks from Texas!
IBEW Local 197 member for 15 years here. The neutral per NEC code is referred to as the grounded conductor the ground per NEC is referred to as the grounding conductor. They are called so because they are bonded at the first means of Disconnect and bonded at the Transformer. You are correct in saying that the neutrals return path of current, but it can carry much more than the unbalanced load as well. I respect what you're doing and people need to learn. But be careful with teaching. Good luck to you
Your explanation is difficult to understand for someone new to electricity. I like the presenter's explanation. It helps those of us who are interested and want to learn.
Good explanation and correct as you already know.
I was shocked when i found out thay I didnt know anything about electrical work
Finally a explanation that I can understand.
Training from my father who is an electrical engineer says the white wire is current carrying ground. The bare copper wire is non-current carrying ground.
Your father is partially correct as the term of a neutral, is a return path to the supply source, not ground. In a perfect balanced linear load, there should be zero current on the neutral because L1 & L2 are 180° out of phase. But we dont live in a perfect world and the neutral does carry current. The reason to connect it to earth ground is so a human does not complete that circuit. The ground is merely a safety issue.
It's called the GC but it goes back to service neutral rather than ground...
Great explanation of the neutral or grounded conductor and what it is for. To this day I still here people saying voltage levels as 110 and 220 when in all actuality common American voltage levels to the average residence are 120 and 240 VAC from the transformer on the pole.
The nuetral completes the circuit
Best answer I've heard in a long time
@HilaKleiner u mean 3 phase? Or Hot, neutral, and ground?
Single and three phase systems do not necessarily need a neutral, they do need a return path but in a 240 1/0 volt or 3/0 system the return can be the conductor when the polarity changes direction
@John, only single phase is the only sitation where the neutral is absolutely required. 2 phase and 3 phase can do without, as long as the load is equal on all phases. Here in Europe 99% of the home appliances run off single phase 230 volts (1 phase and 1 neutral).
here in the US we have 120v per leg x2 legs in residential so if you have a heading element per sae that is 240v it would be 1/0 but 2 legs, we do have 2/0 in some older steel plants but its not common and is almost entirely phased out,( im an industrial electrician) in my plant we have 3/0 208v/240v/277/and 480v
the question i had from my 9th grade ...thanks for your explanation
Well explained dude! I liked it. I think, the recording level of audio was rather low. 👍😎👆
You're on point, in addition you could say, the neutral carries the unbalanced current back.
The ground ALSO stops any current from floating ON a fixture where it would shock you if you touched it and YOU were grounded,.. This would be the MOST important aspect of a ground,
Randy Kuhns I stopped watching after his definition of ground
The Ground is made of copper too. Real shiny looks like copper as as matter of fact. I have my grounds all running to my Bed Frame. (On my wife's side of course) just in case never knows these days.
I have been told grounds should be ran to as grounding rod also made of copper I always thought that was a stupid place so like I said before ran them all to bed frame. The dirt is no place to just throw away a sudden jolt of electricity from a strike we got to use that stuff!
Good job, short and to the point. I enjoyed it, and learned from it - Thanks! Now I am going to your other videos to learn more!
No shorts please.
I want to know why the current doesn't flow through the neutral and make it a live wire because it is the first path to follow for current. And why not making the live wire as neutral for that circumstances.
Nobody really can explain it in depth. Its a complicated topic . Should have a answer somewhere i just have to find more of a explanation
Very good and straightforward answer! Thanks… I subscribed and look forward to more of your videos.
Unfortunately, these are all. Bill passed away October 2016.
I'm new to this but does that mean we're giving to amps back to the electric company that we just paid for?
not really. You don't pay by amps, You pay for active power, not reactive or anything else.
great presentation short and to the point. Thanks
Although the neutral wire is not the same as the ground wire, it _is_ grounded at the main panel for the following reasons:
1. The grounding of the neutral wire is what completes the safety-ground circuit, allowing leakage current from any connected appliance ground wire to flow back to the transformer; without this connection, the safety-ground circuit simply *would not function* _(i.e., There would be no safety-ground circuit!)._
2. This connection would also limit the electric shock voltage one could receive (in most cases) to no more than 120 V. Although this wouldn't apply to someone who accidentally comes into contact with both L1 & L2 _at the same time,_ it would definitely apply to someone who comes between L1 *or* L2 and ground. Otherwise, if there happens to be a ground-fault in L2, and someone comes between L1 and ground (or vice versa), s/he would receive a *240-V shock-more than enough to kill.* This is because the GF electric current would be able to flow from L2 to ground, and from ground, through him/her, to L1 (and vice-versa, since it's AC).
Good answer, but when I was in school I was taught that it only takes one-tenth of an amp to stop your heart if your heart is in the path that the electricity takes through your body should you become the ground! One-tenth of an amp can be produced with only 30 volts AC. The "electric" impulse that one's body produces to make a human heart beat is very weak.....relatively speaking. So, 120V, or 240V is FAR more voltage than is necessary to kill anyone if ...........they are shocked "just right" and the voltage travels the path to their heart, e.g taking hold of two conductors with each hand.
@@MarkMcPeak5895 What you're saying is indeed correct. I would even argue that it would be possible to stop someone's heart with _less_ than 30 V; it would depend on the body's electrical resistance as well as the path the current takes through it. The lower the resistance, the higher the current, according to _Ohm's Law._ So, if someone were to come into contact with a live conductor while grounded outside on a hot, muggy day, that person would be far more likely to be killed than if s/he were to do so in a dry environment.
However, it's not really voltage or current that kills; it's the *product* of the two (i.e., power) that kills (i.e., P = E * I). And since power varies directly to the _square_ of the voltage (i.e., P = E² / R), if you double the voltage, you are increasing the power *four times.* Therefore, a person who comes into contact with 240 V would be four times as likely to be killed than if s/he were to come into contact with 120 V.
Tell that to anybody with an electric fence! Voltage doesn't kill, amperage does. Any decent fence charger puts out over 5,000 volts and people play with them all the time. Automotive spark plugs run at 25,000 volts and loads of poeple get shocked by them quite often. Normal static discharge is 4,000-35,000 volts when you walk over a carpet with socks and then shake hands.
@@SaneAsylum It's the *product* of voltage _times_ current (i.e., power) that kills. Although one can build-up a voltage of 30 kV by just walking across a carpet, the human body has a _very_ low capacitance, so it cannot store enough of a charge to be dangerous once it's neutralized by touching something like a doorknob; the current would be _way_ too low to electrocute you, because the quantity of stored electrons across your body would be _tiny._
However, if you happen to be handling sensitive electronic components (e.g., memory modules, microprocessors) while being charged-up to that voltage, any sudden discharge through those components could destroy them. That's why in an electronic manufacturing environment, ESD prevention measures must be taken.
About time somebody got the netural correct
hey man, you'd make a great instructor.
Woooo At last I can undestand, I had to watch it in english because in spanish the electric science terms are too dificult even for me that I am a spanish speaker. But it also has to do with the person who explains it... I thank uuuuu so much
at one point your are right , but i would not use the word ,: : my version" , I have been hearing this all my live from electricians. there is more technical issues behind the neutral..... Neutral is a intencional name given to the center tap of a transformer, but is relative only to the lines in this case A, B. in a single phase system , A,B ,C on a three phase wye System, Delta systems have no neutral , only in some exceptions , in USA, is common to have a delta system with neutral, however the voltage to each phase is different, one of the phases is higher ,,,,, again its not a absolute neutral , becomes neutral only when you intentionally the center tap is connected to ground , then it becomes neutral , because there will be no potential between ground and "neutral " , But dont think because is neutral it has no potencial, resuming neutral is only a given name to the center tap of the transformer , there are codes for electricians to follow , for safer electrical installations.
CMS ELECTRIC z
Nobody ever mentioned this!! Thanks!
Electricity never leaves the source unless it can return to the source.
False. It will leave if it can get to ground
@red head, no, You are false. Electricity goes to ground because the source is grounded, at the transformers. So the electricity travels through the ground back to the power station. Edward has his facts straight.
as always, Bill'S never disappoint
You didn't mention that the voltage between L1 & L2 is approx. 230vac. The 'neutral' provides the center tap (split) to allow you to have 2 115vac circuits for lights & small appliances while still having the 223vac circuits for you dryer, water heater, etc...
Yes. All that talk about balancing the load is fine and all, but the neutral wire allows you to have two separate voltages without having two separate sets of cables from two separate transformers.
Absolutely perfectly said. I now TOTALLY understand how house electrical works. Thank you so much!
When I found out that my toaster wasn’t waterproof, I was shocked.😏
Spot On! Well Defined! Simple and to the point!
Thanks, good post
Hey bro you are absolutely correct great job explaining that well done
Then why at my electric panel does my ground wires and neutral wires connect on the same bar??
To: Rich Ags. The two wires you refer to connect across to the other side Buss bar to ground the panel, but this ONLY happens at the panel...not out at the various circuit hook ups.
Your neutral bus should be insulated from the panel while your ground bus isn't.
Si ese es el caso,tu panel esta mal combinado.tal como te respondieron,la barra del neutral debe estar aislada,mientras no sucede asi con la del ground
You only connect neutral and ground, where required by the NEC, which is at the main service disconnect. Every piece of equipment connected to the feeders and branch circuits that come off your main panel, keep neutral and ground isolated from one another.
Notice that the neutral bar is mounted on plastic spacers from the metal enclosure of the panelboard? Notice that the ground bar is directly mounted to the metal enclosure? The product is sold with a bonding jumper between that might or might not be installed, depending on the panel's application. If this were a subpanel (i.e. a smaller panel that is supplied from a feeder circuit connected to the main panel), you would not install the jumper. If this were the main panel, you would install the jumper.
We connect neutral and ground, in order to set the neutral at the same absolute voltage as ground. If you touch neutral while also touching ground or building steel, you shouldn't get shocked. Neutral is at the same absolute voltage as ground, and carries the imbalance of current back to the source. Current should go back on the neutral, but not in a parallel path on the ground and all metal stuff in the building that isn't intended to carry current. That's why the N-G bond is exclusive, and only done where required by the NEC.
Rich Ags I saw that you got comments with no real answer. Here is the answer to your question simplified. Forget the word "Ground" for a minute. Really has nothing to do with the question. If a Conductor that has voltage on it from let's say a 20 amp single pole breaker touches the metal box of your clothes washer, (short circuit) there will be a large amount of current going through the "equipment ground" bare copper Conductor in your question. When the current gets to your panel, it then goes to the neutral bar. Then it goes out to the utility transformer, through the coil, back to your house and inside the breaker, this current magnetically opens the 20 amp breaker. Hope this helps you understand.
that sounds like the best explanation I've heard so far
Here's my problem with this explanation, in every service box that I have seen over many years, all of the neutral and ground wires are tied together. I usually, also only see the 2 120v lines from the service pole, with neutral and the ground both connected to an actual ground rod that is in the ground near the service entrance.
Darnley Bynoe this dude was talking about electricity on mars
That bridge allows the ground wire to "deflect" the charge from lightening away from the Neutral wire, which would've otherwise been carried into the house and lead to failure of all connected loads
For the past 20 years or so of doing panel upgrades the inspectors require me as per NEC to have a ground bus separate from neutral bus on the new panel. The old panels almost always have grounds and neutrals on the same bus. As someone else mentioned, this does deflect lightning away from the neutral, but more importantly it allows arc fault breakers to be used for all living spaces which is NEC that has gradually been phased in to use and is now standard in almost all 50 states.
It does not matter that the ground and neutral are, electrically, the same point. The ground is not a current carrying conductor in NORMAL conditions and is not necessary to the load. In fact, home used to not have a ground conductor at all and only had two-prong outlets. Even today many appliances do not have grounded cords and are only two-prong. Though you may not see an actual neutral wire in the distribution panel, I assure you there is one in the meter and you have a feed-through meter were the neutral appears either as a bus on the right or a bare wire, which people would assume is a ground.
the neutral and ground wire are tied together at one point only...
Hey Bill, thanks for the video. It might help to clarify that the reason the current through the neutral wire is the subtraction of the two currents, is because the voltages are out of phase. A lot of the comments look confused, citing Kirchoff's law and whatnot.
Unfortunately Bill’s no longer around to clarify.
@@sunshine3914 was it work related bro?? I also read he had passed.
No neutral on utilities poles? Neutral and ground wire are bonded in the service entrance panel. Utilities are in violation of code: 33.2 Ground or Earth as a Conductor
Ground or earth shall not be used as a normal return or circuit conductor. In
direct current supply systems or in single phase or polyphase supply systems, a
neutral or any other conductor shall be used under normal use as a return or
circuit conductor; however, the grounding of the neutral or
any other conductor is not permitted as a
normal return or circuit conductor. The neutral or any
other conductor is permitted to be grounded only for the purposes of
stabilization and protection.
Note:
John Puccetti yes, but if I'm not mistaken., it's saying you must have a dedicated neutral wire to complete the circuit., and not use a ground wire as a neutral wire.
Don't get confused on the fact that the neutral wire is grounded.
Different then the fact that the grounding wire is dedicated as a ground to earth.
John Puccetti in example, if you wiring a light., and you have a hot wire, but no neutral., you Can Not Ground the neutral wire from the light to something metal to complete the circuit.
Because that neutral wire can and will become energized to the metal object.
Which is why we ground the metal objects and run a dedicated neutral wire.
Glade you have the time to make this video. Many thanks.
Oh, & please also explain what happens if you put a switch on the Neutral (downstream from the Load).
I bet some idiot out there has done this very deadly thing!
Adam Spears, maybe you should... Bill passed away the same year he made this video.
Excellent explanation
In our country, we use a poor 2-wire single phase system.. The weird thing that happens is that when I touch one of the two wires while my feet on the ground, I get shock.. It seems like they have connected one of the wires to ground so when I touch the other wire I literally complete the circuit.. The question is, why do they do this damn sh*t !!!
What country is that? Would seem to me perhaps a 3rd world country, but hey I could be wrong. Britian and Aus/Kiwi's use what? 240V 3 prong outlet. I always wondered what the phases meant. 3 phase drop etc, just sinewaves 3 phases/signals.
Truth Seeker Because the nuetral is most likely grounded at the box
What country do you live in? Perhaps your house is wired up wrong? lol
That is exactly why. Old wiring in the United States was like this and many people actually had a pole in the back yard going into the ground (TO GROUND) the connection. so you had one positive lead current coming in, consumed and to ground.
LOL When he touches it.. Like it is a regular thing, everyday at noon.
Electrical Engineer here. I feel compelled to write this due to some dangerous concepts that I've read here and also listened at the video.
Here, at Argentina, we use MONOPHASE 220 VAC for most of households and TRIPHASE 380 VAC for a minor portion and for small factories that don't require a service company's transformer at the premises (this is only for high end consumers).
At every plug within a house, you have three DIFFERENT connections:
1. LIVE WIRE: It carries 220 VAC to the plugged device, and supply the current needed.
2. NEUTRAL WIRE: It poses 0 VAC (if the installation is correctly done) and is the return path for the current supplied through the LIVE WIRE. This NEUTRAL POLE can be grounded at the entrance of the house OR within the block under service of the electric company supplier. It HAS TO have 0 VAC of difference with the third pole, the EARTH POLE.
3. EARTH or GROUND WIRE: This wire CARRY NO CURRENT, unless you have a LOSS PROBLEM at you installation. The current that flows over this wire is ANY DIFFERENCE between LIVE and NEUTRAL wires, and should be kept below 15 or 20 milliamperes.
To make your installation safe for humans and pets, in the case you have a loss somewhere (refrigerator, desktop computer, etc), you HAVE TO INSTALL a differential disyuntor (a magnetic key-I don't know the name in english, but is very common). This differential switch measures any difference between the incoming and outgoing current (through LIVE and NEUTRAL). It can be calibrated to set the maximum difference allowed (here is 30 milliamps).
If you have a LOSS at a given device (say the refrigerator), the CASE has an AC potential different from zero. If you touch the device being on your barefoot, then the unbalance TRY TO FIND equilibrium by DISCHARGING the additional current (not consumed by the device) through your body to the EARTH under your feet. This is called electrocution and can happen if you touch a wall as well, specially if there is humidity.
With the differential switch protecting your home at the entrance, any current above the threshold you set instantaneously trigger the switch and cut the AC all over the house.
An extreme case is trying to use an AC powered device while taking a bath. In this case, a LOT OF CURRENT would flow through you, killing you unless your installation is protected with the differential switch.
If you have a house powered with TRIPHASIC AC, then you have to install one differential switch per phase, at the very entrance of your house.
NEUTRAL, in the case of triphasic AC, is wired from the center of the star configuration of the secundary of the company's transformer down to EARTH.
Even in this case, the EARTH wiring (ground wiring) has to be present at every plug into the premises and has to have a SEPARATE wiring path towards the entrance. NEVER, EVER do the crime of wiring togheter Ground and Neutral. They are conceptually different. The GROUND or EARTH connection is there to help you or your pets from being electrocuted by using a differential switch.
After the differential switch, you can use as many thermical switches to prevent accidents in the case of shortcircuits. But remember: a 20 amperes thermal switch cut off the current if this limit is exceded, but this kind of switch will not save you from electrocution. That is the job of the differential switch.
Hope this can be useful.
I have a point of view for you, here in Serbia, we have 3 leads, a 3x400v system, where 400V/AC is voltage between leads, and 230V is from any of the leads to the NEUTRAL. So, it doesn't necessarily mean that voltage of N iz zero. In the fact in maby cases it is not. The difference of potential is what counts. If you experience the issue which is called "losing of neutral conductor" than it refers to cases when people substituted neutral with real zero voltage conductor, such as ground and than if the neutral voltage was 40V, they get voltage of 270V on their installation, and destroyed much of the connected devices.
As I have always understood it, the neutral is grounded to stabilize the voltage on line to neutral loads.
Try this experiment. Use a transformer to create an ungrounded three wire system with a center tapped neutral conductor. Put a significant induced load between one of the phase conductors and the neutral. (Take an electric drill with a large bit and sink into some oak.) Measure the voltage across all conductors before, during, and after. You will see large voltage drops and spikes. Then, perform the same experiment with the neutral grounded. You will see only tiny ripples in the voltage. The ground provides a reference point, like an anchor, is how it was explained to me by an engineer many years ago when I was learning the basics.
If you had an ungrounded neutral in your house, your computer and other electronics would go nuts whenever you turned on your microwave or cut some wood on your basement table saw.
Ralph Averill You are totally correct!
Why if neutral and ground different are they both connected in the main box?
jim byr
For safety reasons for your home appliances. If a lightening happens, the current from the lightening will go through the neutral at your power post outside to the ground,where it is to neutral at the panel, and then to earth where it is discharged. To verify what I am saying, check your home panel out, you will notice that they are not connected. Because if they are, you will get shocked if you put your hand on a running washer for example.
MoroccoNews Tribune No.
Neutral carries load. Ground under normal operation will not be carrying load.
You are correct good example there is also i think another deeper although small additional use for the nuetral and that's harmonics. DC loads, ballasts , I'm thinking led drivers also cause this effect and the transformation loses half the wave which increases nuetral numbers
Does the user pay for that unused 2 amps that return to the transformer, or are they deducted for? What does the power company service meter on the house show? 10 amps used or 12? thanks!
see Gerald Morin on youtube for a discussion on that topic. oh and my old house only has 2 wires comming of the transformer. whats up with that? ya thats right. resistance on the ground instead of metering unused electricity on a nuetral? is this possible? I dont know
Please, don't say "voltage goes to", instead say "current flows". Thanks
you dont get charge for amps, what yo pay for is the watts that you use so you wouldnt be paying for those amps going back on the neutral,since they didnt get used that means they didnt generate any wattage usage to get charge for..
Watts (power consumption) by any circuit is just a derivative of the current (amperage) and voltage. Period. If you know the amps, you also know the watts. Don't confuse others just because you do not know the formulae.
Can you read watts to ground?
Great short definition.