we didn't see the finished product. did you leave those weights on the outside of the spinner? you could have done a better job explaining the finished product.
Couple of Questions and Comments: 1) On a variable-pitch propeller, what should be the setting when using the dynamic balancer? 2) What RPM is used to make measurements? 3) Video would be more complete if we were able to see the screen on the Dyna-vibe. 4) Is the spinner the only location for weight adjustment? Can the fly-wheel be used? 5) Can you procure lead washers that have more mass and less stack up height?
1. Full forward, same as runup. 2. Cruise is ideal, or whatever you can get and feel comfortable with on the ground (e.g. runup RPM) 4. Yes, on a Lycoming you can use the fly-wheel but be sure the weight hardware is clear of the starter. 5. It would be better to split the weights to multiple locations and we always use AN hardware. Also, if it needs a ton of weight then it may be wise to have a prop shop do a static balance with permanent weights.
I am not convinced the weight-bolt position set up was correct. Early in the video the bolt you indicated as bolt 1 later becomes bolt 2 when you start adding weight after the first run. At that stage you point to the bolt behind the blade as bolt 1. Setting it up as 6 bolt positions is not useful unless they are equi-spaced. So effectively you added weight to your original bolt 1 when it told you to add weight to bolt 2. No wonder, after the next run, it asked for 50g on bolt 3. Same question as earlier about the extra weight of a longer screw? Also, we don't know what the start IPS was. And when you set up the position of the accelerometer, you told the machine it was at 12 o'clock. It may have been vertical but it wasn't at 12 o'clock.
They sell them as an accessory kit. Decent price. You can make your own by tig welding a couple nuts together using a matching bolt that you remove then remove and tig welding the proper size bolt for the accelerometer bracket to the end with the threaded part pointing away from the two nuts that are welded. Use stainless steel
we didn't see the finished product. did you leave those weights on the outside of the spinner? you could have done a better job explaining the finished product.
Couple of Questions and Comments:
1) On a variable-pitch propeller, what should be the setting when using the dynamic balancer?
2) What RPM is used to make measurements?
3) Video would be more complete if we were able to see the screen on the Dyna-vibe.
4) Is the spinner the only location for weight adjustment? Can the fly-wheel be used?
5) Can you procure lead washers that have more mass and less stack up height?
1. Full forward, same as runup. 2. Cruise is ideal, or whatever you can get and feel comfortable with on the ground (e.g. runup RPM) 4. Yes, on a Lycoming you can use the fly-wheel but be sure the weight hardware is clear of the starter. 5. It would be better to split the weights to multiple locations and we always use AN hardware. Also, if it needs a ton of weight then it may be wise to have a prop shop do a static balance with permanent weights.
Did you add a longer bolt in order to put the weights on? Doesn’t that also increase the weight if you did?
I am not convinced the weight-bolt position set up was correct. Early in the video the bolt you indicated as bolt 1 later becomes bolt 2 when you start adding weight after the first run. At that stage you point to the bolt behind the blade as bolt 1. Setting it up as 6 bolt positions is not useful unless they are equi-spaced. So effectively you added weight to your original bolt 1 when it told you to add weight to bolt 2. No wonder, after the next run, it asked for 50g on bolt 3. Same question as earlier about the extra weight of a longer screw? Also, we don't know what the start IPS was.
And when you set up the position of the accelerometer, you told the machine it was at 12 o'clock. It may have been vertical but it wasn't at 12 o'clock.
What if you only have a skullcap spinner on a Continental with no flywheel?
What is the part number or where did you find the additional mount for engine?
Where did you get the engine mount adapter. Would like too get my hands on one.
They sell them as an accessory kit. Decent price. You can make your own by tig welding a couple nuts together using a matching bolt that you remove then remove and tig welding the proper size bolt for the accelerometer bracket to the end with the threaded part pointing away from the two nuts that are welded. Use stainless steel
Thank you.