New lady in town making 1st full blown appearance. A bit nervous but pushed through it to deliver. After 100 videos she will laugh at her first one. Great job...
It's interesting how we get accustomed to seeing one gender and one gender only in this heritage boot world and we're ok with that but it's definitely a breath of fresh air seeing our female counterpart take part. Pretty cool and I like the new direction. Keep up the good work Nicks!!
Thank you for explaining the "why" behind specific leather care practices. I always hear "do this, do that" without any technical details given as to why. Knowing the details as to why I'm supposed to do something really helps me do the job more effectively.
Crep Protect or Scotch Gard will work on your tan rough out leather. A spray coating is not as durable as wax or conditioners, but it will protect new boots without darkening
I mostly want to know which conditioners should be used with which leathers. A wax, oil, cream what have you. Maybe have a few different leathers and show how different conditioners work on each
I’m excited to this series. Going over proper ways to clean and condition and as you mentioned “not to over condition” Also I hope you touch on what different conditioners are best for not turning all boots black. Haha
What do you recommend for rough out tan to protect/help with breaking in without darkening the leathers? I use Obenauf’’s for my rough out brown in the past but does darken it. I ordered a tan accessory pack and experimented with Obenauf’s and it turned the tray, cup sleeve and key chain almost as dark as brown and even with time has not recovered. I have ordered/waiting for Nicks Work Chelsea in 64 tan rough out and looking for options. Thanks
Wax flesh care info, please! There is surprisingly little info about wax flesh care online. Can we use saddle soap on it? If so, how often? My pair of Nick's brown wax flesh boots came with a small tub of Nick's leather grease - how often should we be using that? Will it change how it looks? How do we restore to "factory" looks? Etc. etc. etc.
For suede you should use special suede cleaner and conditioner. It’s a spray on cleaner and you brush it soft again. As for the conditioner they make special suede conditioners. I have used straight mink oil spray to waterproof / condition them however suede is not like rough-out or nubuck. Suede is basicaly leather split in half and it’s the inside half. Nubuck is the outside half, full grain is basically leather as it comes off the cow, not split or sanded. Roughout is just the flesh side of the full grain and smooth is the outside (hair side)
@@patriotfox7192Hello, thank you for answering, for the advice, and for the informative information about what suede, nubuck and everything else is, do you recommend a particular brand of conditioner or just mink oil, thank you, regards
Really any of the oils works great. Luckily brown waxed flesh is almost black before it patinas. Once it patinas conditioning sparingly is best as the leather is soooo packed with waxes as it is. Light oiling after cleaning darkens them for a short period but the brown patina pops again very quickly. There are really 3 types of conditioners Grease Oil Cream. Heaviest to lightest.
Obenauf's LP contains beeswax and tree propolis with various oils mixed in (and is best applied heated and melted) so once used you're never going to get out the part that has soaked into the leather. If you've used too much or just surface-applied it in grease form and have some waxy build-up on the surface, this can be removed after (re)heating. Brush the boots as best you can first. Then carefully use a heat gun over a section of your boot, melting the LP without overheating the leather. Use a towel or old t-shirt to wipe away the excess liquified LP (let it soak in some if you've never applied it wet, and wipe excess after a few minutes, reheating if needed) . Repeat for each section of boot.
Saddle soap or dawn should be able to draw out excessive oil and some wax from too much LP, I'd say go gentle (as in a diluted mix) and repeat the process until enough is removed rather than going too heavy 1 time and risk drying out the leather. Once your excess is removed recondition appropriately and brush em like you love em.
Define “get it off”. Are you saying you put too much on? As in remove the excess or are you trying to restore the boot to the original color? You will not get back to the original color but you can get the excess off.
Original color? Hahaha. When you wear work boots for work and not just walking around the mall every color leather ends up looking the same. I’m talking Obenaufs mixed with dirt that’s crammed into the crease where the gusset and the vamp meet. No amount of soap and hot water and stiff scrub brushing gets it off. I’ve used dental tools to scrape it off bit by bit and even that isn’t all that successful.
@@dirkstruan1789 seems like maybe too much was put on if it is collecting dirt like that. Yes some darkening will happen with work boots but most people put to much conditioner on. I have builder pros for years that I use to work on developing my land. I use oil in the summer and obenoffs grease in the winter. No dirt sticks to the creases that doesn’t brush off. I only condition 2 times a year. Mine are black so I don’t care about color change at all. I would think getting them warm (not hot) and nylon brush or maybe a soft brass brush might work for the creases.
New lady in town making 1st full blown appearance. A bit nervous but pushed through it to deliver. After 100 videos she will laugh at her first one. Great job...
It's interesting how we get accustomed to seeing one gender and one gender only in this heritage boot world and we're ok with that but it's definitely a breath of fresh air seeing our female counterpart take part. Pretty cool and I like the new direction. Keep up the good work Nicks!!
Would love to see dedicated vids on specialty leather care like Shrunken Bison, Wicket and Craig etc.
Stay tuned!
Thank you for explaining the "why" behind specific leather care practices. I always hear "do this, do that" without any technical details given as to why. Knowing the details as to why I'm supposed to do something really helps me do the job more effectively.
Excited for this series!
Crep Protect or Scotch Gard will work on your tan rough out leather. A spray coating is not as durable as wax or conditioners, but it will protect new boots without darkening
Hey Morgan, great video!!!’
Keep em coming!
Great topic. Looking forward to learning more.
I mostly want to know which conditioners should be used with which leathers. A wax, oil, cream what have you. Maybe have a few different leathers and show how different conditioners work on each
I’m excited to this series. Going over proper ways to clean and condition and as you mentioned “not to over condition”
Also I hope you touch on what different conditioners are best for not turning all boots black. Haha
Thanks great video
What do you recommend for rough out tan to protect/help with breaking in without darkening the leathers? I use Obenauf’’s for my rough out brown in the past but does darken it. I ordered a tan accessory pack and experimented with Obenauf’s and it turned the tray, cup sleeve and key chain almost as dark as brown and even with time has not recovered. I have ordered/waiting for Nicks Work Chelsea in 64 tan rough out and looking for options. Thanks
Hey there, If you are looking for a conditioner that doesn't darken the leather quite as much I would try Saphir or Bick 4.
Wax flesh care info, please! There is surprisingly little info about wax flesh care online. Can we use saddle soap on it? If so, how often? My pair of Nick's brown wax flesh boots came with a small tub of Nick's leather grease - how often should we be using that? Will it change how it looks? How do we restore to "factory" looks? Etc. etc. etc.
Stay tuned :)
Hello, great video, I have some suede boots that I washed with soap and water and they were rough, what advice do you give me, thank you
For suede you should use special suede cleaner and conditioner. It’s a spray on cleaner and you brush it soft again. As for the conditioner they make special suede conditioners. I have used straight mink oil spray to waterproof / condition them however suede is not like rough-out or nubuck. Suede is basicaly leather split in half and it’s the inside half. Nubuck is the outside half, full grain is basically leather as it comes off the cow, not split or sanded. Roughout is just the flesh side of the full grain and smooth is the outside (hair side)
@@patriotfox7192Hello, thank you for answering, for the advice, and for the informative information about what suede, nubuck and everything else is, do you recommend a particular brand of conditioner or just mink oil, thank you, regards
What’s a good leather conditioner for Brown Wax Flesh?
Really any of the oils works great. Luckily brown waxed flesh is almost black before it patinas. Once it patinas conditioning sparingly is best as the leather is soooo packed with waxes as it is. Light oiling after cleaning darkens them for a short period but the brown patina pops again very quickly.
There are really 3 types of conditioners
Grease
Oil
Cream.
Heaviest to lightest.
Tell me how to get old Obenauf’s heavy duty LP off boots. I’ve scraped my boots with a putty knife and it still won’t come off.
Obenauf's LP contains beeswax and tree propolis with various oils mixed in (and is best applied heated and melted) so once used you're never going to get out the part that has soaked into the leather. If you've used too much or just surface-applied it in grease form and have some waxy build-up on the surface, this can be removed after (re)heating. Brush the boots as best you can first. Then carefully use a heat gun over a section of your boot, melting the LP without overheating the leather. Use a towel or old t-shirt to wipe away the excess liquified LP (let it soak in some if you've never applied it wet, and wipe excess after a few minutes, reheating if needed) . Repeat for each section of boot.
Saddle soap or dawn should be able to draw out excessive oil and some wax from too much LP, I'd say go gentle (as in a diluted mix) and repeat the process until enough is removed rather than going too heavy 1 time and risk drying out the leather. Once your excess is removed recondition appropriately and brush em like you love em.
Define “get it off”. Are you saying you put too much on? As in remove the excess or are you trying to restore the boot to the original color?
You will not get back to the original color but you can get the excess off.
Original color? Hahaha. When you wear work boots for work and not just walking around the mall every color leather ends up looking the same. I’m talking Obenaufs mixed with dirt that’s crammed into the crease where the gusset and the vamp meet. No amount of soap and hot water and stiff scrub brushing gets it off. I’ve used dental tools to scrape it off bit by bit and even that isn’t all that successful.
@@dirkstruan1789 seems like maybe too much was put on if it is collecting dirt like that. Yes some darkening will happen with work boots but most people put to much conditioner on. I have builder pros for years that I use to work on developing my land. I use oil in the summer and obenoffs grease in the winter. No dirt sticks to the creases that doesn’t brush off. I only condition 2 times a year.
Mine are black so I don’t care about color change at all.
I would think getting them warm (not hot) and nylon brush or maybe a soft brass brush might work for the creases.
Day 1 of asking for ultimate boot models guide series
How to take care of Wickett & Craig latigo leather made boots
Luke (aka Lou (aka Lucifer?)) Blue Oyster Cult had a song with lyrics about my friend Lou (aka Lucifer)
Just use dubbin everything else is a waste of time.been wearing boots for 30 yrs fuck the bullshit use dubbin clean ur boots fuck the rest