Once again your video bailed me out of a question I couldn't ask. Downloaded the Hobbywing APP awhile ago and just put a Max6 G2 in my MK07. Couldn't remember my password to save my life as I never added one. Seems a bunch of 8s is all you need. Thank you.
Yep. If you ever do forget again they actually tell you right underneath the password what it should be and if that ever doesn't work you can reset the password by holding on the power button for I think 10 seconds.
Again another video with some great little tricks to make life easier. Honestly the chapstick idea is magnifico . Im not new to the hobby but little things like this i never thought of is terrific. I have a pick set in my tools once i saw you using them. I find that some places such as the hinge pin braces i swap out the screws for socket head screws. They strip way less essily
Honestly I would have rather waited and bought the max6 g2 instead of the max5 g2 for the Bluetooth programming over the annoying program cards. It also allows you to do software updates without wasting money on a program card and have to go hunt down a stupid windows computer to upgrade the firmware.
It's a great option I just don't think it should be your only option. I've had problems with The app and Bluetooth connectivity in the past and if it happens again with one of these you simply won't be able to program it.
@@DoRC that is a fair take, but personally if I have to choose between either Bluetooth programming or card programming and can’t have both, I’ll take Bluetooth. I do think both would be the best option.
This is what I put in the Losi 1:8th buggy I’m converting to 6s I was taking to you about the other night. Mounted up well and fits great. I’m working on the battery tray this week.
I was going to put a Max8 in my Maax, glad I waited for the updated version! Any suggestions on a hobby wing ESC upgrade for a Traxxas Rustler?? Great vid, can’t wait to get one for the Maax
Guess my comment went into review :( I was thinking the Max8 for the Kagama basically it should be what comes stock I saw a few people ( I said something else I think that triggers review) say it ran hot so the jammed a max 6 in there gld to see the 8 works and nice vice that thing is stout!!
The Kagama basically does come with the G1 Max 8. I never really had any issues with it running hot. I do think this is a more efficient ESC though. As far as your comment going into review I'm not sure. I don't have any of that stuff set up so it would have been on TH-cam's side.
I'd like to but unfortunately unless the video is something extreme or on a new vehicle it's pretty much guaranteed not to do very well. If they ever come out with a new version I'll definitely feature it though! It's a fun car.
I was toying over getting the Kagama roller and putting this esc/motor combo in over getting the RTR however i didn't realise the receiver sits in that box. The receiver i have that i planned on putting in is a 6 channel design. Do you reckon this would be to big? And would you go roller or RTR bearing in mind the roller setup will cost a bit more to put together.
The box should have plenty of room for pretty much any receiver. It's pretty spacious. That's a tough decision. The electronics in the Kagama are probably some of the best RTR electronics you can get but they are still RTR electronics. The servo is just okay and the transmitter is pretty basic. Some people have issues with the ESC overheating though I have personally not experienced that. If you're the kind of person that would probably end up upgrading most of the electronics anyway I would say just get the roller but if you feel like you would be happy with the RTR stuff then go that way as it is pretty decent.
Ouch. That's actually kind of rare. I get a pretty decent cross-section of failure reports and I haven't really heard of the G2 systems burning up any more than any other
@@DoRC I swear man. I had two of them, because i really loved the way they work and perform. So smooth and powerful. Neither was abused, nor overgeared. I have a Max6G2 and a Max5G2 and they work flawlessly (on a Kraton 8S and Xmaxx respectively), so i don't know.. I am willing to give Max8G2S a chance, but i'll wait a bit 😂, not that fast. Love your channel by the way!👍🏻
Yes it's mod one and I don't remember exactly what pinion I was using. That being said it's best just to experiment and see what works best for you has everyone has a different bashing style and that's going to significantly affect what gearing is most appropriate.
It will though you might need to get extension cables to reach the ESC. I think you will notice some difference on 4S though how much is kind of hard to predict.
I wonder how the combo w/2250kv g2 would handle in a Talion exb? My stock firma 150a cap pack let the smoke out after 16 months of ripping. We like jump bashing so im thinking the max 6/ 4990 combo may be too heavy after batteries and wheels? Surprisingly, theres not a lot of vids on both of these combos.
Yeah overall they're pretty good. They've had some weird problems with these latest versions but at least with this one in my particular setup I didn't have a single issue
@@DoRC I've ran a shop for 20 years and the amount of 1060's I've sold is the high hundreds and only ever had a few faulty ones and they could be user fault
Not a bad idea but most people aren't swapping out ESCs all the time and I've done it enough times now that with power tools it only takes me maybe an extra 2 minutes over something like an Arrma so I'm just not really too worried about it.
I've got an Asuga. Which has been amazing. But the battery tray has broken every bash. So I retrofitted an Arrma battery tray into the Asuga. Haven't looked back.
@DoRC I'm truly not being argumentative. But I tried the strap length wise. And it kind of delayed the inevitable. I ended up spitting the battery out the back. Honestly I'm not sure why the Asuga, Spark and Kagama are prone to battery tray and or straps failure. But nevertheless it's a problem. But again that's just been my experience. And if you end up trying the long strap and it works then great!
I need a new esc for my Kagama and was thinking about going with a max6 g2 but sticking with the 4074 2200 kv hw motor that’s in it. Do you think that would be a problem?
It's hard to know for sure. The G2 ESC's tend to be pretty hit or miss with sensorless motors. You would hope that with hobby wings own motor it would be okay but I can't guarantee it. If you're going to go with a G2 ESC I'd recommend going with a G2 motor as well.
Great info (as usual)...but, it's a 'shame' they removed the programming box ability, making it programmable ONLY via the app & Bluetooth. As you said...and, as I've personally experienced in the past...Bluetooth connections for ESCs is "less than reliable".
Yeah it seems to be the way they're going and I really don't understand it. With the Max 6 they omitted the port but at least on this one they made a conscious decision to programmatically disable something that's a hardware literally is still there for. The fan port legend still even has the communication pin symbol on it. Personally I love the idea of being able to connect to it through Bluetooth but getting rid of the other options for programming is dumb
@@DoRC Just curious...have you tried all the different HW programming boxes/cards (herein referred to as 'boxes')? Using their SeaKing line of ESCs as an example, different models utilize different programming boxes. In order to program all available SeaKing ESCs, you need 2 different programming boxes. To the best of my knowledge, they currently have 4 different models, from two that sell for $10 (86020041 & 30501003), to the 'Advanced' $40 "Pro" model (30502002), to their $300 'Tunalyzer' model (30504003). If 30501003 (the one you tried in the video) didn't work, maybe the "Pro" model (30502002) might work (those are the same two programmers needed for all SeaKing ESCs). It's worth a try.....
I think they absolutely could but I don't think they will. It was almost certainly a conscious decision to disable it and I think that's just the way they're going.
Still quite annoying you cant programme through the fan port. My max6 g2 switch got faulty and keeps shutting the esc down. I can still run it by joining the wires but stops me from being able to programme or calibrate the esc. Also the swicthes are not readily available to buy.
My tekno et48 had the cable crunched or sticking out the side. And some smaller cars that don’t deserve a big esc, slash, typhon, etc I’d love for the sensor wire to go out with the positive and negative side
@@Havingoneofthosedays- Yeah I agree. I think that they could have either made it removable or made it come out the top instead of the side for better compatibility. Most of the cars I've put in have been okay but I can definitely imagine ones that are already really tight being a problem. There are still places you can get the original Max 6. AliExpress actually has them pretty cheap.
I rather go with the original G2 ESC, it has more Amps. Did HOBBYWING everything fix the problem with the ESC cutting out while jumping. I’m about to buy the roller Kagama. Do you think 1250 KV is too much it. I deff want to do most of your upgrades before running it, also add some more weight to the diffs.
I don't think that's true. I believe they are both 160 amp. I can't guarantee that it's fixed for every use case but at least in this particular setup I never experienced that problem. I definitely experienced it plenty of times in the past though. I do think the 1250 KV motor is a bit much. This setup has a lot of jam in this car and you might just end up breaking stuff with more power
Put a Max6 G2 in a ZD Racing 9021. It cannot run unsensored motors right at all and there is no firmware update or downgrade. So now the 4278SD 2250kv is going in! Going to be the beastiest ZD 9021 in exsistence. 8S capable with Kraton 6S hop up diffs going in next
Yeah they released a firmware update for the Max 5 but nothing for the back six and at least in my experience all of the G2 ESCs are hit or miss with sensorless motors.
@IsaacSchultz-lz8jc I did have the same hitting a big jump problem with my Max 10 G2 in one setup. It was never something that I was able to repeat consistently enough to actually make a video on or try to diagnose but I've heard other people complain about the same thing so it's definitely not a one-off.
Yeah and it's definitely not something that happens to everyone all the time either. If it was there would have been a big deal made about it it just seems like certain setups certain times have the problem.
Yes. It's not the best transmitter in the world though it isn't terrible. I primarily use it because it has a really good first party phone mount which is really important to me.
Do do I need a new program box for this and new censored xr8 pro ? I was going to spurge because it’s 240 bucks for the pro which 6s capable but if I have buy another box I’ll just get the 4s esc , I like the control of censored systems and race cars but without challenging tracks it gets boring ,
Can't use a program box for this. It's Bluetooth only. The new XR8 pro appears to be programmable through the previous version program boxes so I don't have one on hand so I can't be sure. Should be able to look up the manual and find out though.
I’m not sure if box I have for v2 it’s the box before the one your using now , I think I need the box your using now to program the xr8 I wish they leave shit alone at this point basically forced to buy the phone module I think ,
@RcPlayer-tt2vw The latest box with a large screen is not necessary to program the latest ESCs as far as I know. I'm pretty sure you can program them with the older version.
I'm confused, so a 6S RTR comes with a Hobbywing ESC just rebranded, and with Spektrum, there's just an added wire for telemetry and additional software for updating and editing purposes. If you're upgrading fine, however, additional power means you just negatively altered the engineering and will break, strip, and bend shit constantly unless you add more rigid parts to compensate for the extra power. I'm waiting for someone to explain this and why they know more than the scientists and engineers who created and are responsible for the evolution of these brushless systems. Why should consumers "double buy" the same damn ESC?
Well usually the ESCs that you get in RTRs are less feature-rich and at least in this case less powerful. Most RTR 6s ESCs are based off the 8 BL150 G1. It's a decent ESC but it lacks a lot of creature comforts. This ESC is more efficient than any of the RTR ESCs, It's sensored which may or may not be an advantage for a basher but it's a nice to have, it does data logging, remote programming, has a better fan, a bunch of options that you're not going to get on an RTR ESC like an 8.4 volt BEC etc. Not saying that you absolutely must upgrade from an RTR ESC but it's definitely not just buying the same thing twice in this case at least.
Kinda sucks about the button being the Bluetooth module is goin to cause some pain For the people who "always cut the power button out. Personally I've never had a button fail on either HW or Castle.
You can't actually cut the power button off on hobbywing ESCs because it needs to see a momentary signal to turn on otherwise it'll just be stuck in programming mode all the time. The castle yes he uses a regular on/off switch but the hobbywing ESC basically has a button that politely asks the ESC to turn on.
Water proofing is so important. Cc should take note from hobbywing. At least for there motors. I seal all my motors before use. I use liquid body mask. Takes heat silicon drys fast and doesn't glue the parts. And like always great video
Yeah it just depends on the type of bashing you do. A lot of people don't ever get their stuff wet so it doesn't matter but I wash my cars off after I use them pretty much every time so waterproofing is definitely nice
@@DoRC well I guess I spoke to quick mine doesn't have that Bluetooth even tho when they sent it to me I thought that's what they was sending.... might have to give them a call lol but I do have to Bluetooth programmer
@@RC4us Well as long as it works properly I wouldn't worry too much about it. The issue I talked about in the video isn't one that everybody experiences with the old model and other than the Bluetooth on-demand fan and a couple other little bits and pieces they're pretty similar.
@@DoRC so it does have the on demand fan not sure how its mounted my max10 g2 has that fan as well pretty sure its a standard now... ive not noticed any issues so far but i am using it in a 4s car and only running 4s
@@RC4us hmm. They were claiming the on-demand fan thing is a new feature for the Max 8 G2S on their website and I'm not sure how the programmer would work since it turns power off to that port after a second with the on-demand fan. The Max 10 g to has a separate fan port and the Max 6 G2 doesn't have programmability available on the port.
Everyone has good shit to say about the G2 models. I have the old Max6 on my K6 and love it. Gotta pickup a G2 for my Talion. I’m actually not biased as I have some Castle stuff, but this is WAY better than that Castle Cobra flop.
I put the max 6 G2 (4990) combo in my fireteam 😉 Loving it 😁 beast of an rc 😉 got pretty much every metal upgrade i could find besides rpm arms for some flex. Bumper, wheelie bar and roll bars along with doors (screen side panels)
Having a fan that only turns on when it get hot is stupid why let it get to that temp when you could have just had it running and not get that hot. And the amount of electricity that these small fans taking is unnoticeable
The only real advantage I can think of is that when the fan isn't running it's not sucking in debris and if it turns off when it can the debris has a chance to fall off the fan grill. The fan turning on only when it needs to isn't really a problem because as long as they have it tuned properly it will come on at an early enough time that it won't be able to overheat before the fan can cool it back down again. At least in my experience with this ESC it seems to work well as the fan does turn on and off with normal bashing even in hot weather and I have noticed that there's not nearly as much debris on it as I would normally expect
@@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj Not really a matter of them breaking at least for me in the terrains I normally bash leaves and bits of debris will block the fan grill and/or the fan itself and cause it to not cool properly. I've had ESC shut down many times simply because the fans weren't getting any air.
@BlackThunderRC nope. I've never been paid for review and the vast majority of the things I do review on my channel I bought myself. Profit is not The goal of this channel. It's not even monetized :-) And to clarify when I said a superior design I meant superior to their garbage original ones that broke if you looked at them wrong.
@BlackThunderRC ah. Hmm. Well I would say I only bash medium hard as you can see in the videos but so far I haven't had to replace one and I would almost always break the previous generation fans on the very first pack.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.77[1/2] ก็ไม่ได้ชอบเอาชนะ แต่เรื่องอะไรต้องแพ้!!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JraaBYOd7I0/mqdefault.jpg)
Once again your video bailed me out of a question I couldn't ask. Downloaded the Hobbywing APP awhile ago and just put a Max6 G2 in my MK07. Couldn't remember my password to save my life as I never added one. Seems a bunch of 8s is all you need. Thank you.
Yep. If you ever do forget again they actually tell you right underneath the password what it should be and if that ever doesn't work you can reset the password by holding on the power button for I think 10 seconds.
you are so knowledgeable and clever i could listen to your voice all day lol. great video
Thanks glad you enjoy!
Again another video with some great little tricks to make life easier. Honestly the chapstick idea is magnifico . Im not new to the hobby but little things like this i never thought of is terrific. I have a pick set in my tools once i saw you using them. I find that some places such as the hinge pin braces i swap out the screws for socket head screws. They strip way less essily
Thanks glad you enjoyed and yes having larger socket heads definitely helps with not stripping them out!
Where do you get a coupon code?
@@larryowens3378 there are a few that might work. A google search should help:)
Honestly I would have rather waited and bought the max6 g2 instead of the max5 g2 for the Bluetooth programming over the annoying program cards. It also allows you to do software updates without wasting money on a program card and have to go hunt down a stupid windows computer to upgrade the firmware.
It's a great option I just don't think it should be your only option. I've had problems with The app and Bluetooth connectivity in the past and if it happens again with one of these you simply won't be able to program it.
@@DoRC that is a fair take, but personally if I have to choose between either Bluetooth programming or card programming and can’t have both, I’ll take Bluetooth. I do think both would be the best option.
I have the g2 in my tlr typhon and have noticed the cut off when hitting a ramp. Wasn't sure why. But once again you learned me something
Yeah now that I've mentioned it in a video it seems like it's more common than I suspected. Hopefully it's fixed in the G2S. I didn't experience it.
Another GREAT informative video..
Glad you enjoyed :-) thanks for watching!
This is what I put in the Losi 1:8th buggy I’m converting to 6s I was taking to you about the other night. Mounted up well and fits great. I’m working on the battery tray this week.
Nice
If you did have a problem with the onboard Bluetooth feature you could use an OTA Bluetooth programmer plugged into the fan port.
Unfortunately no you can't. The fan port does not work with any programmer.
Hobbywing staying busy. This and the Axe R3. Seems like they've been paying attention to previous bugs and are back in the groove on this one.
Yeah I thought the original Max 8G2 was decent but it had some quirks. This one will be staying in my kagama.
Great video!
Thanks Glad you enjoyed!
Definitely a competitor to the cobra 8
For sure. The Cobra 8 definitely has some premium features that this doesn't but for a lot of bashers it will be a more economical choice.
Good vid bro awesome Rig too 👍
Thanks. Be sure to check out my full build video on it! It's pretty epic.
I was going to put a Max8 in my Maax, glad I waited for the updated version! Any suggestions on a hobby wing ESC upgrade for a Traxxas Rustler?? Great vid, can’t wait to get one for the Maax
The 10 BL 120 G2 is pretty good otherwise snag a Max 10 G2 combo.
Guess my comment went into review :( I was thinking the Max8 for the Kagama basically it should be what comes stock I saw a few people ( I said something else I think that triggers review) say it ran hot so the jammed a max 6 in there gld to see the 8 works and nice vice that thing is stout!!
The Kagama basically does come with the G1 Max 8. I never really had any issues with it running hot. I do think this is a more efficient ESC though. As far as your comment going into review I'm not sure. I don't have any of that stuff set up so it would have been on TH-cam's side.
That's awesome I love how the rc industry just keeps getting better and better. Thanks for another great video 💯👍
It is fun to see it evolve. Thanks for watching!
Looks like I may have a new HW setup I'll be changing over to.
So far I'm happy with mine.
You should do a video on the vorteks I bought a 2x4 and it was so much fun it turned into the 4x4 with some mods😅
I'd like to but unfortunately unless the video is something extreme or on a new vehicle it's pretty much guaranteed not to do very well. If they ever come out with a new version I'll definitely feature it though! It's a fun car.
I was toying over getting the Kagama roller and putting this esc/motor combo in over getting the RTR however i didn't realise the receiver sits in that box. The receiver i have that i planned on putting in is a 6 channel design. Do you reckon this would be to big? And would you go roller or RTR bearing in mind the roller setup will cost a bit more to put together.
The box should have plenty of room for pretty much any receiver. It's pretty spacious.
That's a tough decision. The electronics in the Kagama are probably some of the best RTR electronics you can get but they are still RTR electronics. The servo is just okay and the transmitter is pretty basic. Some people have issues with the ESC overheating though I have personally not experienced that. If you're the kind of person that would probably end up upgrading most of the electronics anyway I would say just get the roller but if you feel like you would be happy with the RTR stuff then go that way as it is pretty decent.
I hope they solved the old G2 habbit of burning up 😂😂😂. I had two max8g2 burn up, and two 2250 motors explode.
Ouch. That's actually kind of rare. I get a pretty decent cross-section of failure reports and I haven't really heard of the G2 systems burning up any more than any other
@@DoRC I swear man. I had two of them, because i really loved the way they work and perform. So smooth and powerful. Neither was abused, nor overgeared. I have a Max6G2 and a Max5G2 and they work flawlessly (on a Kraton 8S and Xmaxx respectively), so i don't know.. I am willing to give Max8G2S a chance, but i'll wait a bit 😂, not that fast. Love your channel by the way!👍🏻
@@nicozev8723 I wasn't saying I don't believe you. I just think you may have gotten extremely unlucky.
Can you make a video of your batteries , what you recommend for bashing, good expensive batteries and good cheap ones.
I've got some battery videos coming up!
awsome I think I'll be building this same setup. could you tell me what pitch pinion is needed ? is it mod 1? what pinion are you running ?
Yes it's mod one and I don't remember exactly what pinion I was using. That being said it's best just to experiment and see what works best for you has everyone has a different bashing style and that's going to significantly affect what gearing is most appropriate.
@DoRC thanks for reply 😉
WIll this ESC work with the stock Traxxas Maxx v2 motor? and would it be any faster still running on 4s, this being the only change? Thanks team!
It will though you might need to get extension cables to reach the ESC. I think you will notice some difference on 4S though how much is kind of hard to predict.
I wonder how the combo w/2250kv g2 would handle in a Talion exb? My stock firma 150a cap pack let the smoke out after 16 months of ripping. We like jump bashing so im thinking the max 6/ 4990 combo may be too heavy after batteries and wheels? Surprisingly, theres not a lot of vids on both of these combos.
Should be just fine. I've run this combo in multiple similar cars on the same platform and have been happy with the results
Awesome channel . There must be a reason people say get a hobbywing esc
Yeah overall they're pretty good. They've had some weird problems with these latest versions but at least with this one in my particular setup I didn't have a single issue
Reliability and their QC is second to none in the RC industry, I won't use anything else in my race cars
@@Luke-en2tk most of their stuff definitely does seem to be pretty reliable.
@@DoRC I've ran a shop for 20 years and the amount of 1060's I've sold is the high hundreds and only ever had a few faulty ones and they could be user fault
Personally I would save yourself the headache and run a long servo extension all the way to the esc and just bundle up the wire at the esc
Not a bad idea but most people aren't swapping out ESCs all the time and I've done it enough times now that with power tools it only takes me maybe an extra 2 minutes over something like an Arrma so I'm just not really too worried about it.
I've got an Asuga. Which has been amazing. But the battery tray has broken every bash. So I retrofitted an Arrma battery tray into the Asuga. Haven't looked back.
I've been thinking about doing that too. I'm pretty sure just adding a long strap lengthwise would also fix the problem though.
@DoRC I'm truly not being argumentative. But I tried the strap length wise. And it kind of delayed the inevitable. I ended up spitting the battery out the back. Honestly I'm not sure why the Asuga, Spark and Kagama are prone to battery tray and or straps failure. But nevertheless it's a problem. But again that's just been my experience. And if you end up trying the long strap and it works then great!
@@edwinlomonaco6754 no I love to hear about your experience. Were you using strong straps and using all three of them or just the lengthwise one?
@@DoRC I used 3 Apex brand straps.
@@edwinlomonaco6754 gotcha. Well then I probably won't bother.
I need a new esc for my Kagama and was thinking about going with a max6 g2 but sticking with the 4074 2200 kv hw motor that’s in it. Do you think that would be a problem?
It's hard to know for sure. The G2 ESC's tend to be pretty hit or miss with sensorless motors. You would hope that with hobby wings own motor it would be okay but I can't guarantee it. If you're going to go with a G2 ESC I'd recommend going with a G2 motor as well.
Ok thanks. I can’t afford to buy a new motor so maybe I’ll pick up a g1
@@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj You can pick up Max 6G 1s on AliExpress for not a lot of money. Might be your best bet.
Great info (as usual)...but, it's a 'shame' they removed the programming box ability, making it programmable ONLY via the app & Bluetooth. As you said...and, as I've personally experienced in the past...Bluetooth connections for ESCs is "less than reliable".
Yeah it seems to be the way they're going and I really don't understand it. With the Max 6 they omitted the port but at least on this one they made a conscious decision to programmatically disable something that's a hardware literally is still there for. The fan port legend still even has the communication pin symbol on it. Personally I love the idea of being able to connect to it through Bluetooth but getting rid of the other options for programming is dumb
@@DoRC Just curious...have you tried all the different HW programming boxes/cards (herein referred to as 'boxes')? Using their SeaKing line of ESCs as an example, different models utilize different programming boxes. In order to program all available SeaKing ESCs, you need 2 different programming boxes. To the best of my knowledge, they currently have 4 different models, from two that sell for $10 (86020041 & 30501003), to the 'Advanced' $40 "Pro" model (30502002), to their $300 'Tunalyzer' model (30504003). If 30501003 (the one you tried in the video) didn't work, maybe the "Pro" model (30502002) might work (those are the same two programmers needed for all SeaKing ESCs). It's worth a try.....
Try the asuga mount for the wing, I’ve been running one no problems much better design! 🤙🏻
I will check it out!
@@DoRC direct fit - TC recommended this once mine broke on first use and sent me one on warranty.
Is the bluetooth built into the ESC? Or do you need a separate module?
Nope it's built directly into the updated button. You don't need anything but your phone.
@@DoRC Great. Nice to see a company give us a break on price! Count me in.
They might be able to update the program card slot by a software update.
I think they absolutely could but I don't think they will. It was almost certainly a conscious decision to disable it and I think that's just the way they're going.
Still quite annoying you cant programme through the fan port. My max6 g2 switch got faulty and keeps shutting the esc down. I can still run it by joining the wires but stops me from being able to programme or calibrate the esc. Also the swicthes are not readily available to buy.
I’m not against sensored but some cars just can’t fit these sensored systems having wires going out ever direction..
I miss the og max 6
Which ones specifically?
My tekno et48 had the cable crunched or sticking out the side. And some smaller cars that don’t deserve a big esc, slash, typhon, etc
I’d love for the sensor wire to go out with the positive and negative side
@@Havingoneofthosedays- Yeah I agree. I think that they could have either made it removable or made it come out the top instead of the side for better compatibility. Most of the cars I've put in have been okay but I can definitely imagine ones that are already really tight being a problem. There are still places you can get the original Max 6. AliExpress actually has them pretty cheap.
I rather go with the original G2 ESC, it has more Amps. Did HOBBYWING everything fix the problem with the ESC cutting out while jumping. I’m about to buy the roller Kagama. Do you think 1250 KV is too much it. I deff want to do most of your upgrades before running it, also add some more weight to the diffs.
I don't think that's true. I believe they are both 160 amp.
I can't guarantee that it's fixed for every use case but at least in this particular setup I never experienced that problem. I definitely experienced it plenty of times in the past though.
I do think the 1250 KV motor is a bit much. This setup has a lot of jam in this car and you might just end up breaking stuff with more power
Additionally, the 1250kv just adds more weight. And weight is not your friend in bashing.
Put a Max6 G2 in a ZD Racing 9021. It cannot run unsensored motors right at all and there is no firmware update or downgrade. So now the 4278SD 2250kv is going in! Going to be the beastiest ZD 9021 in exsistence. 8S capable with Kraton 6S hop up diffs going in next
Yeah they released a firmware update for the Max 5 but nothing for the back six and at least in my experience all of the G2 ESCs are hit or miss with sensorless motors.
It’s kind of weird that there 1/10 scale esc didn’t have that problem
@IsaacSchultz-lz8jc I did have the same hitting a big jump problem with my Max 10 G2 in one setup. It was never something that I was able to repeat consistently enough to actually make a video on or try to diagnose but I've heard other people complain about the same thing so it's definitely not a one-off.
Oh I have the 80a version witch might be different
Yeah and it's definitely not something that happens to everyone all the time either. If it was there would have been a big deal made about it it just seems like certain setups certain times have the problem.
Hobbywing putting an even bigger gap between them and the competition! Love to see it!
Are you using the flysky G7P as your main transmitter 9:20?
Yes. It's not the best transmitter in the world though it isn't terrible. I primarily use it because it has a really good first party phone mount which is really important to me.
Do do I need a new program box for this and new censored xr8 pro ? I was going to spurge because it’s 240 bucks for the pro which 6s capable but if I have buy another box I’ll just get the 4s esc , I like the control of censored systems and race cars but without challenging tracks it gets boring ,
Can't use a program box for this. It's Bluetooth only. The new XR8 pro appears to be programmable through the previous version program boxes so I don't have one on hand so I can't be sure. Should be able to look up the manual and find out though.
I’m not sure if box I have for v2 it’s the box before the one your using now , I think I need the box your using now to program the xr8 I wish they leave shit alone at this point basically forced to buy the phone module I think ,
@RcPlayer-tt2vw The latest box with a large screen is not necessary to program the latest ESCs as far as I know. I'm pretty sure you can program them with the older version.
I'm confused, so a 6S RTR comes with a Hobbywing ESC just rebranded, and with Spektrum, there's just an added wire for telemetry and additional software for updating and editing purposes. If you're upgrading fine, however, additional power means you just negatively altered the engineering and will break, strip, and bend shit constantly unless you add more rigid parts to compensate for the extra power. I'm waiting for someone to explain this and why they know more than the scientists and engineers who created and are responsible for the evolution of these brushless systems. Why should consumers "double buy" the same damn ESC?
Well usually the ESCs that you get in RTRs are less feature-rich and at least in this case less powerful. Most RTR 6s ESCs are based off the 8 BL150 G1. It's a decent ESC but it lacks a lot of creature comforts.
This ESC is more efficient than any of the RTR ESCs, It's sensored which may or may not be an advantage for a basher but it's a nice to have, it does data logging, remote programming, has a better fan, a bunch of options that you're not going to get on an RTR ESC like an 8.4 volt BEC etc. Not saying that you absolutely must upgrade from an RTR ESC but it's definitely not just buying the same thing twice in this case at least.
Where can I buy this combo ?
I got mine straight from hobbywing. Hobby wing direct usually has the best prices
Kinda sucks about the button being the Bluetooth module is goin to cause some pain For the people who "always cut the power button out. Personally I've never had a button fail on either HW or Castle.
You can't actually cut the power button off on hobbywing ESCs because it needs to see a momentary signal to turn on otherwise it'll just be stuck in programming mode all the time. The castle yes he uses a regular on/off switch but the hobbywing ESC basically has a button that politely asks the ESC to turn on.
@@DoRC interesting I did not know that. Good thing I'm not the cut the power button off type !
@@RoostedFilms Yeah you would learn pretty quickly :-)
Water proofing is so important. Cc should take note from hobbywing. At least for there motors. I seal all my motors before use. I use liquid body mask. Takes heat silicon drys fast and doesn't glue the parts.
And like always great video
Yeah it just depends on the type of bashing you do. A lot of people don't ever get their stuff wet so it doesn't matter but I wash my cars off after I use them pretty much every time so waterproofing is definitely nice
@DoRC ya the garden hose is my best friend
@TurtleRc same. Bashing in Florida means that my stuff gets gross pretty much every time I go out.
@DoRC My wet season here is seattle is almost over.Thank god So should just need the hose for dog piles lol 😆
i have this in my KRATON 4s XXL with the 4268 2500kv
Nice! The G2S?
@@DoRC well I guess I spoke to quick mine doesn't have that Bluetooth even tho when they sent it to me I thought that's what they was sending.... might have to give them a call lol but I do have to Bluetooth programmer
@@RC4us Well as long as it works properly I wouldn't worry too much about it. The issue I talked about in the video isn't one that everybody experiences with the old model and other than the Bluetooth on-demand fan and a couple other little bits and pieces they're pretty similar.
@@DoRC so it does have the on demand fan not sure how its mounted my max10 g2 has that fan as well pretty sure its a standard now...
ive not noticed any issues so far but i am using it in a 4s car and only running 4s
@@RC4us hmm. They were claiming the on-demand fan thing is a new feature for the Max 8 G2S on their website and I'm not sure how the programmer would work since it turns power off to that port after a second with the on-demand fan. The Max 10 g to has a separate fan port and the Max 6 G2 doesn't have programmability available on the port.
Everyone has good shit to say about the G2 models. I have the old Max6 on my K6 and love it. Gotta pickup a G2 for my Talion.
I’m actually not biased as I have some Castle stuff, but this is WAY better than that Castle Cobra flop.
The Cobra 8 is actually a good ESC especially with the latest firmware it's just really really expensive
I put the max 6 G2 (4990) combo in my fireteam 😉 Loving it 😁 beast of an rc 😉 got pretty much every metal upgrade i could find besides rpm arms for some flex. Bumper, wheelie bar and roll bars along with doors (screen side panels)
Having a fan that only turns on when it get hot is stupid why let it get to that temp when you could have just had it running and not get that hot. And the amount of electricity that these small fans taking is unnoticeable
The only real advantage I can think of is that when the fan isn't running it's not sucking in debris and if it turns off when it can the debris has a chance to fall off the fan grill.
The fan turning on only when it needs to isn't really a problem because as long as they have it tuned properly it will come on at an early enough time that it won't be able to overheat before the fan can cool it back down again. At least in my experience with this ESC it seems to work well as the fan does turn on and off with normal bashing even in hot weather and I have noticed that there's not nearly as much debris on it as I would normally expect
I guess so I upgrade my fans to alu frames and they don’t break
@@RcSpeedFreak-kk8wj Not really a matter of them breaking at least for me in the terrains I normally bash leaves and bits of debris will block the fan grill and/or the fan itself and cause it to not cool properly. I've had ESC shut down many times simply because the fans weren't getting any air.
Ohh. So you have that problem too when hitting a ramp it cuts out?? Damn annoying!!
I did. Seems like it's fairly common. No issues with this one whatsoever but unfortunately that's not a large enough sample size to know for sure.
No spare fan included...
There isn't but it's really not needed. I have not broken a single one of the frameless fans yet. They are definitely a superior design.
@@DoRC Was this a paid review ?
@BlackThunderRC nope. I've never been paid for review and the vast majority of the things I do review on my channel I bought myself. Profit is not The goal of this channel. It's not even monetized :-)
And to clarify when I said a superior design I meant superior to their garbage original ones that broke if you looked at them wrong.
@@DoRC Im on my 3rd fan for them on my second unit.
@BlackThunderRC ah. Hmm. Well I would say I only bash medium hard as you can see in the videos but so far I haven't had to replace one and I would almost always break the previous generation fans on the very first pack.