The Art of Filming a CRT TV Screen on your Camera or Phone for Retro Gaming | MVG
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
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For years i've never really understood why when you try to film or record a CRT TV Screen it strobes or flickers like mad. In this video i talk about my method to get flicker and strobe free captures direct from a CRT monitor or TV on both a Camera and a Phone. Perfect for Retro Gaming!
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This is the best retro video game channel
@@gtxg. shut.
@@gtxg. how are they clickbait?
This video is an invaluable resource. I'm not even trying to record gameplay, I'm doing glitch video art, and this video has saved me a lot of headaches!
Appreciate you giving some detail on this! I don't own any CRTs anymore but I distinctly remember recording them off screen and seeing black lines all over the screen. This will be helpful if I ever need to film one again 😄
Love your modding videos :)
Love your videos mario. Excellent work. I remember doing everything you did back in the days. First xbox, 360. Messing around with the executer extc.... love it all. Keep it up. Big fan
I’ve found that turning the brightness, contrast and saturation on the CRT waaay down to the point that the image looks dull and muddy to the naked eye turns out good on a digital camera. Keep in mind though that i’m in Australia and therefore using the PAL system.
OMG you that 2yo old comment helped me :D thanks!
Ive got to say I have never thought about using my phone to capture a CRT, however now I kind of want to see how my Pixel 2 Fares against my Panasonic GH2, great video, very informative on the topic.
give it a try. id be very interested it how it stacks up againast the GH2 !
Hello there
This is a brilliant idea for a video MVG! Extremely well done as always. I love your explanation and visual representation of how a CRT works. I never knew about those mobile phone apps that let you dial in your shutter speed. Cool! This is something I have struggled with since my first day in film school. I don't know if you ever tried to capture a CRT with a motion picture film camera but it is one of the most scary things to do. Usually you have to attach an external PSU "Phase Control Unit" to the camera so you can dial in a precise frame rate. When you achieve that rate, the image on the CRT will disappear completely which means the CRT is completely in sync with the camera's shutter. Nothing like looking through the camera and appearing to record complete black! There were special technicians that rented out CRT's that ran at 24fps and would sync with the camera because when you sync the camera to the CRT it would throw your sound out of sync and change your light levels. Fun times. Now I use a function called "Clear Scan" to sync my digital camera's shutter with the CRT. This is what your were referring to when you said there are expensive cameras that give your precise control. The big issue for me (and it is a problem with flat panels too) is Moire. I notice you had some severe Moire in some of your shots. I deal with this by using filtration on the lens, a Tengo head, and playing with the angle, but it isn't something that is easily dealt with like the sync issue is. I know it is all about the phosphors of the imaging sensor lining up with the pixels on the CRT so I try to get those in sync but it is very difficult. If you have any tips please let me know and I can do likewise. Another thing to consider is that camera movement will effect the sync as will the actual software. You may sync you camera to Amiga Workbench, but when you load up an program that sync can change. Don't forget NTSC isn't really 60Hz, it is 59.939 and runs at 29.97 fps. This is basically irrelevant in your situation with the Lumix, but makes a difference when dialing in the Clear Scan. Thanks for a great video. Top notch work!
Man is a pro and knows what he’s talking about. Also find a camera with a heavier OLPF or optical low pass filter and you’ll end up with less Moire and aliasing artifacts.
I want to experiment with a diffusion filter when filming CRTs to see if it helps with moire. It won’t be Razer sharp when you film but could be a nice solution for most.
A great detailed and experienced based response. Shared insight is to be commended.
Teach me sempai ! This is really great information Bill thank you so much
great call with the OLPF Alexander. Honestly the lend diffusion is hit or miss and isn't that dramatic of help. You need a really strong one, but sometimes a little Black Diffusion f/x can help take the edge off or a Classic Soft
Thank you Artstate you rock dude!
Seriously, why would anyone vote this video down? Very useful information, thank you!
lcd/flat panel users :) :)
Favorite. Channel. EVER. It's like you read my mind and make videos for it.
Waited whole video for you to mention/explain a 59.94 hz signal. lol (For anyone interested, it's actually 60/1.001, which started when they switched from B&W to color broadcast, going from 30 Hz to 29.97.)
I hope a lot of people watch this and CRT captures across TH-cam get better :-) Good stuff.
I love these kind of videos :o)
One thing which I myself struggle with a lot with capturing my CRT is the moire effect, I find just making it a slight touch out of focus with the DSLR manual focus ring reduces it drastically. Once again, great video!, I really enjoyed this one :o)
Love your videos, too, Lemon!
thank you! yeah i do exactly the same thing (slightly adjust the focus) to remove the moire effect. it's hard to tell with my view finder sometimes though if its there or not - i recommend a field monitor plugged into the HDMI out of my camera. its helped immensely !
I love starting off my Monday with your videos. Keep up the great work.
This is what i'm looking for, thanks!
my pleasure
João Luiz
and someday, in the name of the video piracy, in the year 21xx, a person will wear his glasses provided by his ophthalmologist, but modified later by the said "blind" person to have an embeded-in-the-glasses miniaturized recording HD recording proffesional camera, to be used in a cinema to screen capture the Hollywood's new blockbuster movie "Megaman X".
Than [Thanasis] Zamp Well, Megaman X is already a blockbuster, at least in my life!
João Luiz I am a big fan of Megaman X too.
Very informative and helpful, MVG. Another helpful tip worth mentioning for capturing CRT footage would be to lock the camera into manual exposure, just so that it doesn't brighten up the image when the screen goes black.
This video is helpful my friend, because I been trying to record my game play on my Panasonic crt tv, well ever single time I see the flickering effect on my footage, but thanks to your video I was able to resolve that flickering problem. So thank you so much for the content.
This is brilliant. Thank you so much mate. I’ve argued with this myself and had no idea. And good to know that using a phone is not out of the question.
It's nice to see CRTs captured beautifully.
Could you make a video on CRTs in general? Why some are better than others. What are generally good CRTs to get for retro gaming? From low end to high end? I know the market is already blown up, but it would still be nice to hear from you.
Interested as well.
When it comes to retro gaming, any CRT with any video input will look MILES better than playing a 240p game on a flat panel display. So in that sense, the best CRT is any CRT you can get for free. I just got a 27inch regular consumer CRT with component video on the back for 10$ off Craigslist. It looks INCREDIBLE. Unless you're ready to start shelling out BIG BUCKS for a premium CRT like a high end Sony model or some type of professional monitor, you're really going to be set with any consumer set. I'd recommend looking for one with component video input, though, as it really does look great
@@bartsneezin lmao I found a 13 inch sony trinitron tv by a dumpster and it works perfectly fine
I always pictured you an android user. There really is no other option for power users. Nice video as always. Thanks for the clear explanation.
Haha I recently just switched from iOS for.many years. Should have made the move earlier
Also. NTSC is just a tiny bit slower in their refresh rates compared with the old black and white standards. This is an artifact from the time when the standards elders demanded that the color signal could be shown on an older black and white screen. So strictly speaking, the 60hz NTSC is actually refreshing at 59.94hz which could answer why there are still artifacting going on when capturing the image with a 60fps camera.
One should also remember that modern cheap imaging senaors are using a rolling electronic shutter. These usually don't bother users until you whip the camera around or point it at objects that move repeatedly faster than the framerate. Aka the jello effect. This could also be a contributing factor to why there are still stray artefacts.
jmalmsten This is why I use either a 2/3" 3-chip studio/system camera or an EFP/ENG camcorder that utilizes FT/(UA)IT/FIT CCDs with full electronic/mechanical global shutters, and record the signal to either analog or digital videotape or direct to the SSD/HDD in my computer via capture card. The settings are fully adjustable and significantly more tunable with professional gear than with consumer gear.
One of my viewers referred me over to this channel and I'm glad that he did. This is a fantastic video that is incredibly helpful. As a fellow Pixel 2 (XL) owner, I decided to use Open Camera. It's free, open source software with no ads that allows for the same freedom of control as the app you're suggesting. Just remember to enable Camera API 2 in the settings and you're good to go.
Great stuff, and you earned my subscription!
Very informative video! I've learned quite a bit more now about capturing CRT footage as cleanly as possible!
Just can't get enough of your content, informative while being entertaining! thank you MVG!
Very useful tips on this channel, and this video open me a door, I play a lot PS2 and now can do gameplays in the right way..Thanks a lot MVG
You can of course go slower than the native refresh. for example if you need 50, you could go to 25 and expose the camera correct (as it will get way brighter). this will introduce some motion blur though but it'd mean that you are sampling more that one game frame per video frame recorded.
07:09 - Samsung Galaxy S5, S6, S7, S8 and S9 plus their note phones have this shutter speed in the settings as a standard feature... it is called 'Pro Mode' in the camera. I mainly use it to take great pictures at night or the moon or a starry night sky in the city. Thanks for this video for everyone who doesn't have a Samsung phone or those who don't know about the *Pro Mode* that is available on their phones ever since the Galaxy S5 onwards...they can now do the same thing without needing to get such a high end phone!
Thank you! You have just saved me some money!
I have the S7 but there no pro mode to be found.
honestly i love what you do around here mvg the retro gaming content with helpful videos on things like xlink kai for example, its informative and entertaining, also the original xbox content is a big winner for me :)
You know what, this is useful even for recording aircraft cockpit videos since some models still use CRT - although it may be running in some multiple of 400Hz, because of the generators output.
Just gotta be that guy - I really hope you're not recording at 1/100 for 24 or 30fps lol. Unless syncing to a screen, your shutter speed should be 180-degrees of your frame rate. (48 or 50 for 24fps, 60 for 30fps, 120 or 125 for 60fps.) You can sometimes get a good full 4k30fps capture just due to having a 1/60 shutter speed.
EposVox
While I am a strict believer in the cult of 180 degree shutters, one should remember that it is mainly a leftover from film cameras where that was the defacto standard. Slower was hard to do because you had to move the film while its dark to avoid streaking and faster was oftentimes not possible because of restrictions in film sensitivity. So claiming what videomakers should or shouldn't do is a bit overreaching. If the goal is to emulate film yes, then you would need special reasons to justify anything other than the standard 180.
But one aspect where recommendations are in order is when filming in environments with flickering lights. That's a situation where you kind of have to film with a multiple of the mains hz as the shutter speed. Otherwise it will look like a strobe light.
I'm just glad he isn't using the soap-opera look of 360 degree shutter that many videomakers use. :D
Indeed. I generally consider 180 to be what the default should be - going so high (like 100-250) when not trying to compensate for lights/screens can cause some still image-like movement jitter and just doesn't look good. And requires you to use a lot more light to compensate for the darker image and etc.
EposVox but what about capturing from LCD monitors/cinema screens using the digital camera?
Dark areas appear darker and bright areas appear brighter. How to avoid these problems?
That can be difficult w/ a phone's crappy auto exposure but with a real camera that's easy
EposVox Why?
Isn't there an application for Android which can callibrate the phone's camera for the right brightness?
There are no "pixels" on a CRT.
Take a look at Technology Connections video on how CRT's work
Instead of using paid apps you can use open source "Open Camera" which enables custom shutter speed under when set to API2.
In fact, I am pretty sure most of the paid apps ripped of the Open Camera
open camera sucks
@@mr.electronx9036 ok
You can also use double the shutterspeed of the framerate of the crt. In case your camera can't use 55 but 110 instead, but I guess it cant. You will get less motion blur though something you might not want.
My camera doesn't have a 1/110 shutterspeed either unfortunately. I guess better camera allow you to fine tune and really dial it in
Yes, my gh4 can fine tune but even then sometimes I can't get it to be perfect.
If you reduce the shutter speed to half the framerate it will be closed for (roughly) half the time it takes the beam to complete the frame and that half will look dim. If the framerate is close to the refresh rate the dark part will move slowly. If it's not it will flicker.
Thanks man, I'm considering streaming some retro games by filming a CRT just for fun, but I remembered they flicker like crazy unless you're at just the right angle
brilliant mate, i been looking for this for a while
BTW: i was watching this video on my crt while i was testing the same app you have on your phone, and it worked! the flikkerin is gone, thanks a lot man
Great video. Perhaps you could create a video that explores in more detail how videogames back in the day were designed with CRT TV's in mind and how emulators try to replicate that look but generally have some way to go before they can compete with the look that is achieved using real hardware on CRT's. Thanks again, Chris
Thank you so much!
Please know, this channel is doing a great service to all of us Retro Gamers! 🎮😀
I don't film CRTs too often (mostly at expos), but still good advice. It's worth noting that similar principles apply to still photography of CRTs.
Very interesting video!
Now what we need is to hack camera firmwares to add that sort of fine adjustment :) (and remove the stupid 30 minute limit?)
Axel DominatoR Haven't tried it, but there IS such a hack for some Nikons at least.
Canon cameras have magic lantern CFW, and as Mr. Gonzo has said, there's one for Nikon too. And about the 30 minute limit, it's for taxation purposes. For a camera to be considered dslr or Mirrorless, it has to have that limitation. If it were to record longer, it would be considered a camcorder, and be taxed higher. it's silly, but so is the US government
The best videos are the ones that remain timeless. Thanks MVG - this was exactly what I was looking for!
Oh my goodness, at 1:45 you can hear Hybrid Song (from Quazar I think? the song has various names and a confused origin). This is one of those songs I heard once somewhere and spent months trying to find again, I'm stoked to hear this tune again, thanks for the good memories! :D
Canon camera with ML firmware gets you fine tune in a cheap camera. Might be worth it for a TH-camr that films CRT regularly to invest in a $300 Canon body and lens off Craigslist.
while you are correct in that you must use the same shutter speed etc, usually what I do is use a shutter speed that's double the frame rate.
Very helpful video! Selecting the proper camera settings for my TH-cam shots is one of the things I am not the best at, but this explaination helps. Until now I wasn't quite wrapping my head around how shutter speed affects video (as opposed to still photography). Can't wait to get home and experiment. Thanks again!
Awesome! Good luck and let me know how your experience is
really well produced videos.
Oh man this is SUPER useful, and I haven't even thought about this "issue" until this video. you rock man
Thank you! Changing the shutter speed fixed my problem.
If u wanna get rid of the remaining dark bar that's still present u need 2 use a frame rate of 320 for NTSC or 200 for PAL (for the recording device of course). That bar is because of lines fading away after the electron beams have passed it. In fact syncing the camera 2 the monitor will give u about a 1/4 of the frame in each frame of the recording. So setting ur frame rate to 4x should be enough. I say should because it's not EXACTLY 1/4 of a frame.
interesting! I will try this
CRTs don’t have pixels, the shadow mask might look like it has pixels, but look at a trinitron up close, where is the pixel definition? It’s not there because you’re viewing an analog signal scanning across phosphors, not stopping and exciting individual pixels.
They actually have, and every pixel have 3 subpixels One green one red and one blue.
Ah btw being analog doesn't matter at all to be considered a pixel, pixel mean Picture Element, even paper can have pixels often called Dots. Look at one magazine or dairy and you can actually see them.
alelokox88 eh, yeah. Even binary digits can be transftered in analig form as low-high sinus waves in a compact cassette.
These are not pixels. Like I said, the groups of 3 dots you see are there because the shadow mask in non-trinitron displays forces the electron beam of a specific color to point at a particular color phosphor without bleeding into the surrounding phosphors.
Trinitron displays do not have these dots of phosphor or a shadow mask, they instead use vertical strips of phosphor. They do not define pixels either, but are a better representation of what I am talking about.
What you are seeing is changes in brightness varying beam intensity as it sweeps across the screen. You are not seeing pixels. The game console uses pixels, but the display itself does not use pixels. There are no individual picture elements that make up the screen at all, just strips of phosphor that cannot be individually addressed.
If it were the case that individual phosphor groups were pixels, how could an analog display smoothly scale any signal using geometry controls without a hardware scaler? It doesn't need one because it's three elecron beams varying in intensity as they raster an image across the screen. You can change the scan pattern to literally any geometry and the image will scale smoothly and without artifacting due to the fact that the color elements are just rapidly flickering electron beams.
Thank you for saying this. Technology Connections has a great video about this as well: th-cam.com/video/Ea6tw-gulnQ/w-d-xo.html
I don’t make TH-cam videos, but I was curious about this for a while. Thanks for sharing, I love learning tidbits like this!
Cool to know, I'll probably never need to use it but awesome video as always mate.
Thanks for this excellent video! I noticed moiré a few times, do you have ways of dealing with that? As well as shutter speed, there is also the shutter ANGLE. There is an excellent video about this on the Slo Mo Guys 2 channel titled The Challenges of High speed Filming.
for moiré i usually just - very slightly - adjust the focus so just a touch out of focus. it usually helps. give it a try. thanks!
It looks amazing how old games looks on a CRT. Nice video...😍
Love the production quality and music on your channel, it just feels so nice!
This was a great video and super useful. I have some many games on old PC's that I can't capture at the moment so this would be a great workaround. Also you've got some amazing kit - love those pvm's and everdrives etc!!! :D
great video mate , this will prove really helpful as am wanting to record a few games for the channel , thanks for uploading 🖒
one thing I've seen people do in the 90s is use an external clock for their broadcast camera. the clock would have been derived from the monitor display's visual blanking input signal. i wonder if current cameras can still do that?
how does the shutter speed setting work? a digital camera doesn't have a shutter. what does the setting actually change? does the data get shifted out of the image sensor faster/slower depending on that setting? or does the shutter speed setting just multiply the output of the sensor by a constant?
cheater00 This is why I use either a 2/3" 3-chip studio/system camera or an EFP/ENG camcorder that utilizes FT/(UA)IT/FIT CCDs with full electronic/mechanical global shutters, and record the signal to either analog or digital videotape or direct to the SSD/HDD in my computer via capture card. The settings are fully adjustable and significantly more tunable with professional gear than with consumer gear. And yes, using GenLock for synchronization between supporting gear is possible with this kind of hardware.
Nuclear Armament nice! is there an inexpensive system like this that can do 4k? good to know this is called GenLock! thanks!
cheater00 Unfortunately, no. You will have to shell out tens of thousands of dollars for broadcast UHD (3840x2160) resolution equipment, and that is just for the camera alone--it doesn't include proper UHD lenses, which can also cost tens of thousands of dollars.
This includes cameras like the Sony HDC-4300 studio/portable broadcast camera, which has a full global shutter in UHD mode; the Ikegami Unicam XE UHK-430 portable/studio camera and the UHK-435 camera that is strictly for studio usage also have full electronic global shutters; the Hitachi Kokusai SK-UHD4000 studio/portable camera with four 2/3" UAIT CCD sensors with 2.2K resolution and full electronic global shutters each (all of which combined provide a very good, upscaled 4K image when combined); the Thomson Grass Valley LDX-86 Universe portable/studio cameras with 3 CMOS FT sensors are also capable of true UHD resolution, but they don't offer full global electronic shutter support in UHD mode, only FHD mode--and unfortunately there is no mechanical shutter option to compensate for this.
Your cheapest options would be the in the several thousands of dollars range with the soon-to-be-available Sony PXW-Z190 and PXW-Z280 handheld camcorders with three 2/3" CMOS sensors that have UHD resolution and GenLock, and even cellular bonding capabilities and a 12G-SDI output, but still no global electronic shutter. Other options would include using Super Hi-Vision (FUHD/"8K") cameras like the Ikegami SHK-810, the Hitachi Kokusai SK-UHD8060, and the Sharp 8C-B60A; these are also terribly expensive unfortunately.
P.S. The Sony CineAlta PMW-F65RS/Venice, the ARRI Alexa 65, Canon EOS Cinema C700GS, are really the only other viable options when it comes to single-chip CMOS digital cinematography cameras with full electronic global shutters, GenLock, and UHD resolution or better.
Nuclear Armament wow, nice write up! one thing i don't understand: why are shutter options important if you have GenLock?
cheater00 Shutters in that instance likely won't matter if the monitor and camera are synchronized perfectly with GenLock/VideoLock, like you implied. It's just a nice thing to have in case you have to pan very quickly so you will not get the rolling shutter/skewing artifacts with cameras that lack global shutters, but since recording a CRT in a static position dead center of the camera probably doesn't require it (I'm honestly not even sure about this, but I'm assuming it would still be better anyway).
The Sony PXW-Z190/PXW-Z280 are the cheapest and newest options that offer 4K resolution CMOS sensors and GenLock capabilities. However, I am skeptical of lenses that can even resolve what those sensors resolve on their own, as 266 line pairs per millimeter of resolving power is necessary to resolve a 3840x2160 matrix of pixels on a 1/2" format sensor, whereas the same resolution on a 2/3" sensor requires only 200 line pairs per millimeter of resolving power.
Shutter speed and Refresh rate being matched.
PVM and RGB Trinitron owner here! Nice video, subscribed.
Fantastic Video!!!
This is extremely detailed and informative!
Having the ability to properly capture raw gameplay/footage from a CRT in it's environment really adds to the authenticity!
This is my favorite retro game channel
That sound in the background when your CRT is on kills my ears, but I'm willing to sacrifice that for you :o
Thank you for this excellent video, I will be checking my sony a6000 to see how I can make this change.
Hey, the shutter speed should be twice as fast as the framerate. In example 24fps you use 1/48 = 1/50th shutterspeed.
Magical word of the video " shutter speed " ; thanks for doing this excellent video
This is why I use either a 2/3" 3-chip studio/system camera or an EFP/ENG camcorder that utilizes FT/(UA)IT/FIT CCDs with full electronic/mechanical global shutters, and record the signal to either analog or digital videotape or direct to the SSD/HDD in my computer via capture card. The settings are fully adjustable and significantly more tunable with professional gear than with consumer gear.
Great explanation Seems that this application is not available in Spain, then I used Open Camera as Ray wrote in one comment and works perfectly, just one detail, in Europe televisions works at 50hz then Is necessary to set shutter speed to 1/50
Brilliant tips and very informative without getting too technical. I'll take a look at that app too - should be a good addition to my kit!
You're doing the lords work
Wow, this is something I have been working on all week! Thanks so much
Thank you so much I was wondering if my tv was bad, but its only a sync issue. Really thanks keep the good work. Show us more about retro consoles.
Everyone on TH-cam NEEDS to watch thus
Thanks for this video i'm going to mess around with this 👍
This is handy
And a bit footy.
The same when taking pictures of a CRT. Setting the phone camera to manual mode and setting the shutter speed to 1/60 or 1/30 and without the lights on with the focus set to either manual or automatic, exposure set to any setting, and ISO set to about 100.
i started watching and was intrigued. Then I seen your videos regarding you creating xbox emulators, annnnddd now i'm subbed. Love the content!
This video is still helpful in 2022.
Like your Style Bro gets beter and beter
so what about for Sony Handycams? i have a Sony Handycam HDR-CX330 and i wanna see if i can adjust tha shutter speed on it. any help?
One can notice the strobing with just your eyes if you look at a CRT in your peripheral vision. Same thing with lightbulbs. It's rather unpleasant, but fascinating at the same time.
Thanks so much for alot of this info! I been trying to record a VGA monitor for an upcoming video and this helped immensely! I'll definitely put the info to good use!
You are the man MVG!! Always look forward to your vids.
This is extremely useful, well explained and put together. Really want to thank you for all your videos.
LOL I read the title as f*cker free tv recording. Great video thanks for the info
If you have a canon camera, you can also use Magic Lantern to adjust the shutter and frame rate directly. Did you try shooting at 24fps too? I'm thinking that the higher effective persistence of 24fps would work for most CRT frequencies.
Hey dude i love your channel and just want to let you know I picked up a crystal xbox modded for 50 bucks canadian and man it is great. thanks again for all your videos.
thank you very much, good video, it has solved many doubts for me to record videos with retro machines or the CRT of my Arcade machine
it is awesome to have phones that can capture this. I'd love to have a nice high end 5k mk3 for studio work or something, but in the meantime, my phone is really just as good for most applications.
Really insightful and useful. Thanks MVG :)
I recently got my hands on a 30" widescreen CRT Panasonic TAU television with native HDMI input. It was in somebody's spare bedroom and had very little to almost no use for its entire life. It hads a great picture and sound but does weigh in at about 150lbs or more. Just get yourself a sturdy tv cart and it is easy to move around.
Hi MVG, I really like your videos, you interested me in retro gaming, it's obvious for me that making videos of it is your passion. Keep up the good work in the future, I count for more good content of yours. Greetings.
Thanks. Helped me a lot on getting started with filming my CRT. I found Pro Video on IOS where you can also set the shutter speed for fliming
I just downloaded it. Can you tell me what settings you used for best crt filming?
Thank you for this video! This was one of the things I was trying to figure out for a while, going to be trying it.
Funky Hybrid Stars, DAMN.
Great video , I love playing retro games on my Sony Trinitron and I wanted to take photos or film the screen and I just could figure it out
Thanks so much for explaining it
the song you used inthe middle of the video... that catchy tune. I've heard it on a keygen for some software a longgg time ago lol.
>pixels on CRT
You what?
Pretty sure the FPS doesn't matter. 24/30/60 etc. It's the shutter speed that's the only variable you really need to worry about. 24fps+1/60s should be fine. 60fps+1/60 is going to look really weird. Should aim to have shutter speed bottom number to be about twice the fps... so 60fps you'd want 1/120s ideally for better looking motion.
Highly detailed, well explained video!
A mystery solved!
This was absolutely amazing! Thank you for this video
Opening or closing your window blinds is analogous to aperture, not shutter speed. Yes more light hits the sensor ultimately, but opening aperture lets in more light at once. A longer shutter speed lets more light in over a longer duration of time.