18650 CID Reset ⚡ DON'T DO IT! ⚡
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 มิ.ย. 2018
- This video is dumb - please don't reset 18650 CID's for your DIYPowerwall
Some info on CID's batterybro.com/blogs/18650-wh...
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Thanks for tuning in as always!
Pete
![Cutting open an LG 18650 battery for science [ amateur video warning ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/per8ybI55bI/mqdefault.jpg)
this is what is needed so it becomes clear what is acceptable and what to avoid at all costs
well said
Moronic tendency's should be closely monitored.
yyes but by whom ?
Any one trying to revive dead 18650 cells. Including myself. Look at my post
Well if the goal is to burn your house down or see your charger and the battery melt into garbage and smoke then this video shows you how to go about things correctly.
4 years later and this info is still valid. Thanks for not deleting it.
Thanks
2018 - 2020 :) Tried it on a dead 4 cell battery pack. (not used a lot and lay in the shed over a year sadly 0 volt.) Popped the CID back into place and they all measured 2.x volt. Charged them slowly with 200mA and raised the voltage to 4.2V. (inside lipo bag) They stayed cool to the touch and now they work like they are new again but like any other lipo li-ion they are monitored and replaced as soon as they do unexpected things. As far as I could find out the CID was invented after a bunch of 18650 burnt "down" a plane (while on the ground) so, safety is cool but it's not uncommon that batteries form a small amount of gas due to chemical processes, and yes! pretty fast if charged or depleted incorrectly. Anyone using LiPo's in RC knows this and these are even more dangerous than Li-ion.
Well done mate. I've had soooo many 0 volt cells, all to the recycler too!
Thanks for that info and demo there mate, i had no idea about that stuff and given im looking at starting off in this field thats super handy to know!
Awesome video! I learned a lot, even if it was not succesful. More about the 18650 cells, what to avoid, security stuff ,etc. A very constructive video. Thanks for share it!
Thanks HB. I don't know if it was mentioned that if the CID were to be damaged by jamming a screwdriver into it. Could render it "stuck closed" and not pop again when needed second time around. Great video!
Yep, i have to agree with you on this video. In the last couple of weeks I've been researching and studying these 18650 rechargable batteries. I've watched a lot of videos on how to recharge a dead/ no charge battery but none of them show a long term or long term useage or the problems that could arise. You video here is gold and solid advice to all. Why? Because as you said, these batteries lost their charge for a reason, plain and simple. You video here tops my charts and i think is the best advice to everyone. Thanks.
I just want to say that I think it great you did this video. I am getting ready to build my first powerwall, and safety is my biggest concern. Keep the safety tips coming.
Safety is important, even stuff i've done in the past has been cringeworthy
This is an excellent video. Typically, they don't recommend attempting to charge ANY lithium ion cell that has fallen below an open terminal voltage of 2.3 volts. Any commercially available charger has a built in threshold voltage under which, for the sake of safety, will not attempt to charge. In use, they say to cut them off at 2.8 volts. my designs cut them off at 3.2 volts. You still get well over 90% of the battery capacity, with enough of a margin, that it can sit for a while. In a radio controlled model airplane, cutting the main propeller at 3.2, leaves enough in reserve for flight surfaces, for a controlled landing. I typically cut the charge at 4.16 volts, rather than the full 4.2 volts, just to improve the cycle life of the cells. you still get 85-92% of rated capacity. By limiting the charge/discharge voltages, batteries last much longer, and are more safe. As far as this experiment, my results were exactly the same as yours. If you pick up a cell that shows 2 volts or less, it's ready for the recycle bin. Voltage balancing during the absorption charge is a must! Any time multiple cells are in series, it's imperative to have voltage balancing to guarantee that no cell exceeds 4.2 volts while charging.
It's well proven that voltages even under 2.0V (and even down to 1.5V) are perfectly safe in MOST cases. However, the risk of the cell being inherently damaged is greater as the voltage is lower, but more importantly the amount of TIME that the voltage is low is even more important.
In any case, if the (previously under-voltage) cell comes back up and holds a charge OK, then it's OK. If it won't charge or won't hold a charge, then it's fucked. The cells are either internally damaged and cannot hold charge, or not... if they won't hold charge then they cannot explode because they are dead and there is no energy inside them.
Bullocks, I've been doing this for years. Of course I have no depth perception and I shake hands with my left. Good vid!
yur not british are yeh?
Thats why the UK has gone to the dogs.
R&D man, R&D
look at the russians, Lots of R&D, not funny. And thats how far R&D should go. up to the point that wouldnt make your mum proud.
btw, can anyone show a video of a overheated lipo exploding by going beyond the point of mum?
You provide such great material to your viewers. I appreciate all of your hard work. I truly appreciate it!
I appreciate that!
Hi Pete. Thanks for pointing this out to the community please don’t feel silly about this video, it is essential that others learn and don’t get fire trapped, in my opinion it is far more sensible to do due diligence by obtaining spec sheets on cells prior to purchasing them, too many people seem to be tempted into buying cheap lightweight shit.
Great teaching lesson here! Like your backup safety plan too, good work!
Hope i never need it, thanks for tuning in
9:38 Heat from the internal short circuit by the dissoluted Cu colector .
Copper dissolution and deposition during overdischarge and the formation of internal short circuit.
before I watched your video I watch the one where you reset it. then yours was the second video I have just watched on TH-cam. on the first video I follow the instructions to reset the battery, I am so happy I came across your video and want to say thank you I have now put them batteries in the bin.
Good man!
You have effectively added caution to my actions. I was getting ready to pop the CID in mine and have decided to solder in another cell instead.
Good call
Interesting experiment! I have done nearly everything with those harvested 18650 from old laptop batteries. I tried to bring them to explosion (in a save environment outside) just with overloading, short circuit etc. - ended up only heating the cell up to probably 100 deg. C before the CID popped. I never resetted the CID.
When a 18650 is behaving like here, it is internally massiv short circuit and has quite high of an internal resistance (it wont take much amps when trying to charge) but it heats up due to internal resistance and short! Anyway i found several cells very close to 0.0 volts and succeeded in recovering them to a certain extent. They tend to heat up on first charge quite a bit, so they must be under permanant surveillance in a safe environment, but after that first procedure they seemed to take a charge after having cooled down again. On the second and third try they didnt get that hot any more and kept their voltage for several weeks! They are still bad cells but i found a few on them that seem to recover even more after sitting for a year with mediocre charge. One of them only drops its voltage maybe 50mV in a month - which is quite reasonable for a bad cell. A good cell keeps its charge for years tough and i have a few which only show a selfdischarge of 10mV a year! But anyway - some of them can be reactivated to a certain extent. But i wouldnt recommend to do so, as they can behave very unexpectedly and can be potentially very dangerous! Never use such cells in your torches or e-cigarretes!
That first charge where the cell got hot was your mistake. You have to bring them back above 3v by charging at ~10ma (1/100th C). Do NOT let them heat up. The deep discharge has severely depleted the anode of lithium atoms. Trickle charging gives the lithium time to work its way back into the anode (between the sheets of graphite). Fast charging forces the lithium in, generating heat and probably damaging the structure of the anode.
How good the cell is after a CID reset depends on how much damage was done before it popped, and on what caused it to pop. But you certainly want to avoid adding to that damage.
Average Joe!!!!!!! Sweet! He is realy a cool guy.... Love his vids and the bloopers at the end, He is not everyones cup o' tea but who gives....
Really good vid and GOOD info.... Thanks HBP!
Yeh - Give Joe 12 months he'll be massive! Fantastic likeable personality
I was waiting for "Boom" either literally or just in your monologue. LoL
@@HBPowerwall what about 2v
It works for me, thank you very much mate!
Good to see the IMAX charger in use. Got one earlier this year.
You shouldn't regret doing this video, good info and needed to be said. Besides, I love these kinds of vids of people doing stupid shit so I don't have to. Saves me a lot of time and possible smoke and flames!
I really hope it helps some of the newcomers to the community.
Completely agree! Without this video I would've tried these methods with less safety and even less knowledge of what to watch out for. Thanks.
thanks so much for doing this video, I have always been concerned how to correctly assess dead or low voltage batteries so I appreciate your help.
thank-you
Definitely a necessary video explanation. Good looking out.
I recently found out you should not beep test across a battery as it can damage that part of the meter. That part is for Resistance only. when you go across a battery or cell you are allowing it to discharge through the meter.
Really - cool didn't know that! another tick for the banggood multimeter, it survived Pete lol
I have also found when pressing it down you need to gently and on all sides (holes) Voltage should be above 1 2 or 3. I also look for corrosion or leakage. (ie colour) If I smell the fruity smell then i Know its not good. I'm sure you know Lithium and water don't mix. (salt water would be more conductive and would probably be worse then normal water. Perhaps do a test out in some open space somewhere to see the difference? Now that would be an interesting video. Keeping safe at all times though
I didn't know until Dad told me yesterday. He does more electronics than me and has done for years. 3D Printers and RC planes etc. as well as cars (normal ones) too
I don't see how continuity testing a cell would damage a DMM. They are designed to test continuity on live circuits (mostly low voltage). If there's there a break in a part (showing no continuity), the power is flowing through the meter. There are plenty of resistors in there to keep the current down to a minimum.
Maybe what your dad had heard before was that you don't test and "keep" the probes on the points for too long. Then yes, that could damage the unit as there is still current flowing through and could heat up and blow the resistors inside the unit. Testing is only needed to be done for a couple seconds, really.
Regarding the risks of introducing a voltage through the multimeter leads:
*Yes, there is a risk of certain parts being damaged, especially parts that can not tolerate the 1 to 9 volts that a multimeter might deliver across the probes in continuity mode.
The above is especially true when the component (or other components on connected traces, which will also be affected) is not powered. Many parts can tolerate voltages when powered but not otherwise.
*To minimize the voltage, an option is to use the multimeter in resistance mode, at the lowest resistance setting - The higher resistance scales work on higher probe voltage, going by a quick check on a couple of multimeters at my desk.
*Note that basic multimeters often combine continuity and diode testing modes, so the voltage is at minimum sufficient to forward bias silicon diodes and perhaps LEDs. This means a voltage of 2 to 3 volts.
Another Great Video and Prime example of what to expect when trying to revive a Dead Cell!🌋🔥💣💥
Turns out mine were dead-shorts so probably worst case possible
Did you reset each one? Or just the one shown? Just curious
No it's not. It's just a prime example of stupid things you should NOT do to a dead cell -- like shove 2A into it, or short it across a fully charge battery (effectively 'charging it' at 4.2v at the Max amps the good cell will give.)
You shouldn't do that even to recharge a good cell!
That was quite informative, thank you for your video!!!
Thank-You Sir
I did bring my batteries to life , yes one has to lookout for heating issues, several times it heated but ultimately they have good charge , I think I did parallel charging and some slight pushing of insides positive terminal.
I have a full pack of dead cells going into the recycle after watching this video. I checked the voltage and all under 1v from a scooter pack. looks like water had gotten into the BMS. I have plenty of faulty Makita packs with good cells. This will be my first project and thanks for the heads up.👍
That cell has an internal short. You can tell because when you voltage test the voltage drops from the continuity of the tester. There are many reasons for cells to have a popped cid. If you reset and test voltage, if that voltage drops while checking it, it's trash. If the cell voltage is over 4.3v after resetting it's trash. I have thousands of cid popped cells. I may make a video since we have the capacity to reset and test thousands at a time. And get some real data analysis. That cell in this video was bad from the get go. First sign was voltage going from 0.20, 0.19, 0.18, etc. Just from checking voltage. All cells that do that get hot. 100% of the time.
Yep never a good cell to start with and given all cells are the same and the bms didn't work I'd have to assume that bms failed causing the cells to fail. All guesswork of cause but I think if you had the chance it would be fantastic opportunity to educate and learn
Yeah because I've messed around resetting cid's. 90% of them worked perfect with no heat and no internal resistance issues. But I never really went in depth on the numbers. And we don't sell reset cid cells. For an information video though I think I can help with doing the testing in bulk and seeing the characteristics across the board
I think that would be a great thing for the community - I've tested only 15,000 ish cells and every one that was zero went straight to recycling with out a second thought. Its a positive thing having an open debate about the topic - I just got 500 more 6cell laptop batteries so if I come across any more I'll put them aside for a 100-200 cycle test in the opus at one amp.
Can you let me know which is the best battery charger like the above used to bring back Li-Ion cell back to life?
Liito-Kala Lii-500 can test it and bring low ones back up. price to Perf its perfect and pretty accurate.
WOW! Thanks for the tutorial. I really needed to know this.
thanks for tuning in
I've been looking a load of videos that say this is a great way to revive batteries but I've been thinking there must be some reason this safety device is there.
Thanks for making it absolutely clear that this is frigging dangerous, your video may well have saved me from a very unpleasant accident.
Cheers Mate
I wish more saw it from this point of view - thank-you for the feedback
Ditto
Somethink. Nothink.
everytink :)
@@HBPowerwall lol tink
Thanks for the "Hey, hold my beer and watch this!" video. LOL Yeah, those hot cells are a fire waiting to happen. Good for you warning people.
P.S: It's a TP-4056, not 4506.
Consider your beer held ! And yes i constantly get the TP xxxx wrong lol
That broken battery looked like a glow stick with the thermal camera.
Some videos all over the internet concerning lithium ion and li-poly battery. Others just pretend to be electronic techies that are actually electronic junkies. They simply do not know what they are doing.
Good info fro them. Hats Off!!
I'm no expert but i enjoy the learning this channel has provided me. I've learnt more in comments than by my own mistakes
Unfortunately, "don't know what they're doing" pretty much describes this video. Show 3 unsafe ways to fail, and insist there's no safe way to do it.
Glad you did that chap, it taught me some stuff about those batteries that I didn't know...
Thanks for tuning in
Nothinck?
Yeah, I caught that too. Must be an Aussie thing :P
Aussie thing plus mic plus pete lol
Ah! An Aussie thinck. Tnx! :)
Hearing it a lot now on British podcasts.
Nothink is worse than sodder for solder like US videos
peter,
when the lifpo batteries are that far discharged, recommendations are to charge them up to the minimum really really slowly. i suppose the "slow chraging part" is for the reason they do not get hot and degrade even more.
They just aren't coming back as you can see from some shots the battery voltage drops as soon as it's removed from the charger. These cells are toast!
i repeat:
try to charge them with a really small current, like 10mA. till they are up to 2.5V
now i have not tried that. (tricklecharge was the term they used.) i came across this somebody that drove the home made electric car till it did not move anymore. they trickle charged the battery over night and seemingly it recovered.
but you are probably right for your batteries. they probably are a total loss.
Mine are a total loss - far too much heat with far too little charging amps.
IIRC, the TP4056 apparently does the trickle charge of 100mA if below 2.5-2.8V.
completely different chemistry.
HBP is right on this one.
Thank you! There is so many vaping youngsters who call themselves “experts” and influence naive pin feathers to risk both there own and others life and health. I managed to stop smoking 7 years ago with help of e-cig’s and I’m still vaping (nowadays very low nicotine) and I really recommend heavy smokers to try it. And, of course, listen to the facts about batteries and electricity.
but u are GENIUS man ! you show to us, no necessary for up the voltase from a sick baterai... because i many times do it for a dead baterai, and i washing time.. the dead can not up and heath to 3 volt and more
I've tried this, but with a very low current and it's a waste of time. You can get the voltage up again, even to 3 volts, but it doesn't hold the voltage. The moment you stop charging the voltage starts dropping again. In some cells slower than in others, but you can't use them.
There is some level of shortcut inside the cell. May not be a direct (meaning 0 ohm) shortcut, but there is a connection somewhere between the anode and cathode. (Lithium dendrites have grown causing a connection.) If it still has some resistance the rest of the cell can still charge, but it won't do you any good if it discharges right after you stopped charging. The heat is caused because most of the charging current is dissapated into heat in the dendrites.
Just a waste of time trying this, but a great way to get experience and learn that dendrites are real and what they do.
Still, it is possible to drain a cell to below 1 V without dendrites inside. And in those cases it's possible to revive a cell. A faulty bms can allow to discharge a battery too much. But in my experience when you are able to revive a cell like that, it's lost a huge part of it's capacity. So basically, not a usable cell anymore.
Didn't even consider them dendrites! I think the larger issue is we are all recycling cells we don't know the history of there for you must assume the worst and if they are bad now they have a better chance of being worse quicker later.
Thanks I was wondering that. You'd basically use a current limited bench top power supply, right?
I guess once a cell is damaged, the risk increases that an internal short causes a runaway reaction.
Dejay Rezme That's the fancy way. If you don't have that equipment, you take a healthy cell, and put it in parallel, with some resistors between to limit the current. For example 3.5 V cell and a 0.5V cell. R = U / I = 3 / 0.01 = 300 Ohm. Or easier, use a potmeter that goes to 1 Kohm and put a 1 ohm resistor in series. The voltage over that 1 ohm resistor is the current that's passing through it. You can adjust it with the potmeter.
That's one failure mode. But don't assume all reset cells act the same way.
9:59 You can witness the cell's spirit is leaving its body.
it returned shortly after the video ended :P
Not a stupid video fella... very informative... with explanation and reason. Thanks....
Thank-you @The4everblue
Great job Pete... Yup, it's dead.
I'll also echo the rule that if the CID's popped then the cell simply goes into the recycle bin without fail.
What is surprising is that all of the cells CIDs popped - this is surprising, because if one goes then power stops flowing through all of them.
I have revived some zero volt cells with intact CIDs successfully, and appear to be quite healthy.
Agree the TP4056 is good for doing this, so it prompted me to go through my rejects pile that the Opus didn't respond to, and I managed to find a handful of cells that could be revived... yay!
if 18650 cells after full charged then mR=around 100. CID indicate that 18650 cells had misused or degraded. it can be used for some loader under 350ma like flashlight or led, ardruino etc...if you used these cells in parallel then it will parasites power from other cell, for long time dont used around couple months, all other cells will going die or degraded lifecycle. if you used these cell in serial installed then it will increase mR that reduced high C perform, then your circuit going bursted. there are 3 mains things that happen: bad cell or low cost design( some mfg make these cell with low C for safety and low cost). second one is overloader( like harvert in laptop cells: due to bad idea on ratio battery and wattage of laptop, gold ratio is 0.2 to 0.4C base on cell but on laptop that ratio is 3C to 4C, so lifecycle of laptop battery = 1/(4C:0.4C)x1000cycle=100cycle x 5 day average=1.5 years.) third one is bad design and understanding of perform. support that you can find any twos cell that fully charged with same exactly mR (internal resistor ) then you can buy mega lottery. the best for parallel battery is install a disconnect switch by a mosfet or physic button. then a small starter battery will turn on these mosfet to connect all parallel battery for loader. if for couple HOUR not used then it automatic switch off to disconnect and separated all cell in parallel; but hey i think mfg never support or want doing like that.
idk what kind of baby flashlight you use, but mine certainly can't use such a bad cell lol
"There... Are... Four... Lights!"
I'll bite - what the hell lol
th-cam.com/video/o_eSwq1ewsU/w-d-xo.html :-)
lol
lol "There are SIX cells"
Nice man, you said the truth. if we have truthful people like you on TH-cam i think it would be better.
I think the internet would fail if everyone told the truth lol
@@HBPowerwall keep telling the truth because i made me prevent explosion in the lab .
don't bind others.
you are the inspiration for me to be motivated to produce my video ideas. really ! Thank you very much!
Cant resit the urge to cid.....
I can understand some HAVE to try, fixing them - but honestly for most it's just a bad idea.
HBPowerwall not on the edge taking up to much room
good, we need new Darwin award candidates (If your don't know, look it up)
Peter Ellens cute thanks for your input
No no No never parallel a low battery and a full battery you are giving it massive current.
That's right, and this guy didn't seem to know the risk. I'm a bit surprised that there aren't many people telling him this.
thats how you give a boost to someone whos car battery is dead
Top video of the week, hope it will stops ( discourage) people to injure themselves or people round them. Thanks
equal parts of both sides - many will try now, many will not..
lately I have been getting into batteries and learning to restore, solar, 1860 cells from laptops. and i have some that are 0 volts. at first when i came across your video before watching i thought that this would promote what your doing. but after watching i have learned a lot and will never attempt to restore 0 volt. i'll recycle them and continue my projects and learning of batteries mostly 1860 and lead-acid as i am really into renewable energy. thank you so much. your video very helpful and i subscribe to see more of your future videos. Timmy from Northern California
Great that it helped bud - welcome to the community
Without a CID any battery pack featuring parallel cells is an accident waiting to happen, as you've shown. Thanks for sharing your expierience!
Thanks for tuning in and the comment!
Really helpful, I admit to not knowing quite a bit of this, so thanks
Me either learning as I go - the community is fantastic - check out facebook.com/groups/diypowerwalls/
Very interesting! Thank you for sharing this.
Thanks for taking the time to tune in !
Thanks for the video. I was thinking about do that, but had the smarts to continually research if that would a good idea. Now I know it isn't.
Thanks for the information. I tried to wake up 2 NiMH that are 18 years old and one that had been refreshing or the charger was at least trying, it failed and the intelligent charger said no, error, will not charge them. This is caused by the cell chemistry being dried out through the vents. I will keep the batteries because they came with a state of the art CD player and it might have some value when it is antique with all the original parts. I have ANSMANN ENERGY 16 PLUS charger. What charger/balancer do you recommend for 38120 batteries?
I believe what your reply is as true and direct guideingto right way of things and I was just questioning as to why others due but your replied email makes sense for a battery and yea ill defiantly not try what you displayed...
Great video. So many people trying to do this. DON'T BE STUPID. All it takes is one person to cause a fire, property damage, personal injury, etc and we'll get more and more regulations piled on us.
Yep for sure Mike!!
Thanks, you explained well,,, finally my battery worked
Oh my.. thank you... I saw this video first before trying to repair my dead rechargeable 18650 batteries.. God bless Sir you already save me from harm..
You're welcome... i think..
I recycle them....or reset the diaphram...Some will reset to 4.V others 1.v
a good cell will recharge back up to 3 V in less than 10 sec.
They'll hold their charge...ect
A bad cell wont charge back up...when it reaches whatever it maximun protential voltage...such as 1.5v....The voltage will drop or remain at 1.5-1.8v..ect .if you take it off the charger...it'll drop back down to zero....
It takes less than a min to if a cell is bad or not.
I made a couple of 6s (25.2V) pack 3 cell per..using recycled laptop 18650
they're 15C at most...They're fine. I used them on the kiddies POWER WHEELS
High discharge 18650 such as 30C DISCHARGE are in 20V cordless drill packs...
I have mix match mah or C rating...in the kddies 6v powerwheels or R/C contraptions...They're r/c cars and powerwheels are recycled too.lmao
You definietly dont want to use a bad bad cell....Building 25v battery pack...
doing battery surgery Gets OLD.lmao
@@oneeyemonster3262 I don't believe there are any 30C constant discharge 18650's at all! Not in drill battery packs, or even on the market. About 10C CDR is the best you can hope for, like the 22a cdr on the Samsung 20R which is common in drill packs, (25R is more capacity but slightly less powerful C rate.) Even the newest power cells, Sony VTC5a or VTC6 3Ah are at the same C rate ratio, they'd need a chemistry change to radically change that. At the moment only Lipo cells will pull that kind of power or more, not 18650.
@@ABritInNY I dont either...but the 18650 i used are from dewalt ( samsung) stock # rated at 30C...That's why I made 6s packs for powerwheels...it has the same power as 5s 50C lipo ( I CANT use 6s lipo 50C on powerwheels..it;ll fry the moto but runs fine on the 30c rated 6s 18650.
@@ABritInNY I also have other 18650 from r/c cars...some perform better than others..i made 6s 18650 from laptops (10C)..it has about the same power as 4s 50 c lipo..or less.lol
I've done a few CID resets and most of the time I get fine cells that are working normally but I keep them in a fireproof container in case something bad does happen as they are fully charged. I don't plan on using them though and I will probably recycle them
This was a great informative video, thank you for doing and sharing it with us
My pleasure!
Cheers from Brazil. Tks for that
sir u r really a nice guy.... u feel very responsible about the impact on society.....good job
I try - but it's mostly enjoyable to me. everything else is a bonus :)
Great video sir, and saved a few people from burning thier houses or garages down.
maybe :P
Your video is quite informative.
More like mis-informative.
thank you for this .Deffo good to know.
Thanks for the feedback
2:21 LMFAO! You can hear the little snipping sounds over that! 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Honestly thank you for uploading it because I needed to know very much helped thank-you
Glad I could help
@HBPowerwall any chance you could help me I'm basically trying to build a pack of reclaimed scooter cells I'm starting the process of weeding out the bad cells now 90% r salvageable cells but I also have a cupped dozen that are diffrent brand meaning iv have 40-eve cells,
10-samsung 25r, cells
24-samsung Q30 cells
24-mh1 cells
Now the 2 sets of 24 cells are already made packs with each its own bms I wanted to know can I just build one big pack if I tear them 2 already built packs down and maybe somehow use the bms x2. In the one big pack or could I just add on to the two already built packs with already wired bms with the salvaged good cells I got its a electric scooter battery 8 s. And how ever many p I can make it but the pre-made packs are 8s3p and I honestly want to do a 9s9p pack but unsure how to or where to start . Please lmk if any more info is needed I'm so lost on what I should do scooter is unagi e500 dual moters 250w each but somehow specs say 1000w max please help I want to get like 5 more mph from its 20mph and overall at least 30 mile range again that's a dream but what should I do thank
I have done it to a few and the ones that did not heat up when charged are now used in my flashlights. The rest went in the trash can you can use a straight jewelers screw driver to rest just about any cell but again like you said do not do it. The batteries in my flash lights are now in the trash just not worth the risk for any use
I’ve fond this more in Roybi batteries then any other brand. They have something wrong with there chargers, in a form I read that if you leave the battery on the charger after it’s topped off, it slowly discharges to 0V and kills the battery. I like the video.
This might be true of the older dumb chargers. I haven't had any issues with the newer smart chargers. I often leave my packs in the chargers as space is an issue. I just grab a pack, slap in it, and go to work. The pack functions for as long and as powerful as it was when it was new. And I've had these for over a year now.
OK, I’m just saying about what I’ve seen with batteries that I’ve gotten. I don’t know how old they are. Ones with voltage have been pretty good.
Useful video from the standpoint of showing the behavior of defective lithium cells when charging is attempted. Now we can easily spot a cell that is dangerously bad and overheating (not that I didn't know before how recovery much below 3v is iffy).
Lifepo cells are more forgiving, have higher output current, but lower AH capacity.
Did this with 20 from a ups and they work just fine. No overheating while charging. Hold charge well and discharge normally.
thanks for the feed enjoyed
Thanks Chris
Un nuevo suscriptor. ¡Gracias por tu contenido!
I did it during the video all six came back to life ... the worst was 3.5V the best 4.0V ........ great tip !!
Yeh but now your house will burn down and your family will be homeless... the tip sucked...
Thank you for your explanation. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Had the exact same on a LifePO4 18650. Had a internal short in it, and was leaking acid from the - side. Even putting it accros a 12v battery didn't really do anything. It just heated up and done nothing. Gave it the last push by putting it in a fire.
No... You didn't have the exact same because LiFePO4 batteries don't have the CID in them. Of course your cell was dead, you already said it was shorted out and leaking fluid (not acid). So being surprised that putting 12V on it didn't fix it make you as dumb as dog shit, right?
Great video. Thanks for teaching people that are just starting out or don't know what they need to do to be safe.
Hi, thanks for the video. But where can I buy motherboard for battery ?
Dude.. stupid thing to do- yes
Stupid video- no!.
I reckon you’ve saved at least one life doing this video.
Thank you!
One would hope...
Do you have contact leads voltages on Ryobi P193 battery?
1. Has three leads on the towel (face on right side); Front contact is +, Back is -
2. One contact on Left Base
3. Two contacts on Right Base
Am bummed out about a new 20700 that quickly died and you have put it in perspective, I'll get a new battery. Cheers.
Ty great video learned a tone!
Thanks for tuning in
TBF though, if you use the boost/parallel method on a near-dead cell without it heating much and it can keep 3+ volts overnight(after disconnecting), you probably still have a decent cell on your hands.
Thanks for this video.
Thanks bud
Very good explanation and demo ! good job 👍
Glad you liked it!
thank you it really works! i've manage to recover 5 of these 0v. could still be useful for flashlights but of course im not gonna parallel them on my huge packs 😄
You're mad - i hope you don't lose anything you value..
@@HBPowerwall well we did it so they don't have to. please don't try this at home kids 😄
Nuthink. We say it a bit differently here in Canada...... Awesome vid. Good to see why hacks are not always a good or safe idea.
If i didn't say Nuthing, this video would have flopped but all the comments bumped it up .... good old youtube
the battery probably popped because of a thermal failure... I appreciate that you posted the video anyways...
Do you have stats on the % of good vs bad CID reset batteries?
Good job dude 👍
I had a Milwaukee Fuel 5.0A 18V pack go dead. Was fairly new, I found 8 of 10 popped. I think it was transient event. I sat dead for a long time until I discovered and tried the CID hack. All read 3.0 volts from just sitting idle for long, long time. I charged them and it was back to normal, no overheating other than small normal amount. The charger brought them back above 3.2v in under 5 minutes. My 1/2” impact drive must have heated them up too fast last time I used the pack. If it was dead, dead like well under 1v, yep probably good to give up on them and recycle.
i totally agree , using failed recovered battry on a powerbank or a vape is the dumbest idea ever , , but can be used for other projects that not need high amp
Had two deeply discharged 18650. Both had around 0.5V after resetting the CID. Slow charge it for 3 hours then charge them normally. Et vóila, can use them normally but didn't measure the capacity yet.
When they are deeply discharged, they are really suck at recharging themselves back and just being good hand warmer.
Your approach is nothing less than dangerous .. :(
thanks for sharing the limits on those cells
No problem 👍
Well I have a very thin and narrow piece if stainless steal. I put some plastic coat on part of it ad it fits real well into the opening. Have revived several batteries doing this. some do not charge even when reset.
Can't say I envy you but be safe!
I found some cells near zero voltage but they seemed to revive when charging slowly with the tp4056 but got warm when they came to higher voltage around 4.0 volts. All of them had the same issue. I put them out, let them cool down and started again. This time they didn't got significantly warm and charged up to around 4.15 volts. But they still have some high leakage - after a few weeks just sitting there they dropped to below 3.5 v. After a few round trips of charging and discharging they keep their charge a little better but still they are bad cells. I never found a cell that was dropping the voltage that quickly like yours in the vid.
near zero - in my experience can yield some very healthy cells as long as they are brought back super slow
The TPxxx chip does only really very small current for the revive attempt, in order to still revive a cell that was genuinely just discharged so deep but it is otherwise good, but with the current so low it should not create significant hazard when the voltage is low because of a fault that may actually become hazard if charged by the normal current.
I do agree, do not mess up with cells where you are not damn sure they are good. And a tripped bimetal protection means the cell has experienced really high temperature, which by itself means the cell is heavily damaged inside.