Tha ks a lot fpr this and your other videos on the sea doo. I just p icked up a 99 almost identical to yours aside from the exgaist exiting into the jet pump area and not the back end. You helped me get more familiar with the cooling and the jet pump so ill be able to easier troubleshoot down the road. I paid $2,100 for the ski and it wasnt running. Needed a battery they said so I got one and it barely turned over with the plugs in. I gpt a new starter and put that in (wow I almost got stuck insode with both arms wrapped down inside haha. Going to remove the seat clamshell like you mentioned next time for more room) she started up and runs good now in a warm garage. Just waiting for the ice to melt now!
For others that have overheating issues that checked almost all the water lines and temp sensors and still have the high temperature warning check the elbow on the head with the intake water hose that sits underneath the fuel injection system it feeds the water through the top of the head and the cylinder head temp sensor is connected to that water jacket it usually gets clogged with calcium and Lyme and looks like concrete
Love the video series for this sea doo. I have that exact one and the same issues/concerns. Would you share the size of and where you purchased the water port o-rings/grommets used in the jet pump housing (@8:45 in video)?
Yes - I looked up the part number and ordered parts. I can't verify this is the correct part number as I don't recall. Let me know if you need more info. Glad this helped you. Thanks! Paul
What about when hook up to hose on trailer? Just bought a 94 gtx that has had a 717 out in it and it runs great but on the hose it does not send water to tail tell it makes it to the small line at the T and about 3 inches down the tube but that’s it no more at idle or a little rev. It also doesn’t pump water to the top T on exhaust unless I pinch off the inlet hose behind where the flush valve is. This has inline flush valve on inlet hose. Even then it doesn’t shoot water to tail tell but top of exhaust runs cooler hence water them flowing to top exit port on pipe. It has me baffled maybe there is just not enough pressure when running off hose on trailer I dunno
Hmmm - wish I could help with this! I'm not sure. I've honestly not paid to much attention to the tell-tail when mine was running on hose on trailer so I don't know what is the norm. Sorry... Mine are stored and winterized otherwise I'd check it out for you.
Paul, just came across your channel. I have a 2000 Sea-Doo GS with the 717 motor. I am having similar overheating issues as well. I am going to go through it this weekend like you instructed. I look through your video but may have missed it... did you ever produce a video on the exhaust parts / hoses? As I will need to source some of these parts. My issue is interesting as I believe my system is cooling (my system is identical to yours btw) as the motor does not overheat during operation. But, I am getting discoloration in the exhaust cone, clearly getting too hot. Also, the 5in coupling that ties together the manifold to the exhaust cone has blown out twice in the last year (blew a hole on the side of the rubber coupling). I have a lot of riding to do this summer so I plan on working through it this weekend. Lemme know if you have any more thoughts. Thanks!
Good catch! I did say I was going to do a vid on that. I did not. However, I can give you a mcmaster carr part number for a 5" coupling hose section that works perfectly. You can buy 12" and cut like three out of it. The part number is: 5285K117 As for the rubber exhaust line in the rear, I attempted to make something out or flexible hose but it didn't work out so I ended up buying a used hose SEADOO part number on e-bay. Honestly, if you could get away with silicone hoses and elbows like what are used on diesel turbos and such I think you could make that rear section. However, silicon tends to get a little spongy if it's subject to oil as in like 2 cycle exhaust so I don't know if that's an option but I did look into it. Something for you to think about I guess. Look at the o-rings in the back on your machine where the pressurized water enters the hull. You might be having issues due to them folding. Thanks Paul
One thing to add: What is the condition of your wear ring? It's possible for it to get worn to the point where it could affect water pressure going to the engine. Replacing a worn wear ring will also boast the performance a very noticable amount.
You seem like you know a thing or 2 about these. Before I even go to the trouble of checking all this can you tell me if my ski is burnt up?! I say that because you mentioned if you don't see any pee.... just stop. Well I was driving and not looking back for any of that, came to a slow down in a cove and saw the "hi temp" warning on the display and it died. Tried several times after that to crank, but it would start to crank and then like there wasn't enough energy to actually turn over anything. Not sure how the battery or anything would be too weak since it started 15 min before this with no issue. So do you think I've burnt something up and forget it or anything for me to try? 2002 gtx rfi. Thank you!
Bummer! It's hard to say. Don't lose hope. I'm pretty sure these machines should go into limp mode when the overheat so it's hard to kill the engine as they don't allow you to rev up much when hot and you'd know before you ran it too long. Both of mine do but they are not the same model as yours. The difficulty in turning over the engine is a little worry-some. though. First I'd get it on a trailer and try to start it with hose on it and fully charged battery. If it still turns over hard, I'd go underneath and check for obstructions on the drive/impellor. These machines are direct drive which means the starter has to turn over the drive shaft to the impellor as well as the engine all at the same time. An obstruction could cause hard starting and/or overheating. Let me know what you see.
Hi Paul. My 2002 GTI is doing the same. My tell tale is out the side by your left foot. It was blocked solid. I blew it out with an air compressor as well as all the other lines. I still have no water coming out of the tell tale. Wondering if this o ring/seal is my problem too. Not enough pressure pumping the water in. Thoughts?
Hmm - not sure about the design of a 2002 and the orings. Mine is a 1997. Mine was overheating and that's why I had to "fix" the o-rings. As for tell tale, I'd get you have blockage somewhere that you have not found yet. If pressure is low, the tell-tale might not work. Is it overheating?
@@paulhaines5755 Thanks Paul. Someone prior to me owning it added a check valve on the inlet hose. We removed it and problem solved. There must have been some kind of pressure loss there because it now circulates perfect. Thanks for the tutorial video about how the system works. Awesome information for guys like me who aren't mechanics.
Nicely done! Yea - any sort of restriction in these things is bad I think. I'm no mechanic that's for sure but sometimes I think the novice perspective is just as or more helpful than the person who does this stuff all the time. I wonder what a check valve is for? Maybe they towed it a lot behind a boat and wanted to not have to keep on clamping the inlet as you are supposed to do...
i took off top heads only and was full off sand fully clogged and scraped it with screw driver and flushed it with water hose and also rinsed exhaust pipe and unclogged with screw driver. I cleared hoses from sand also
Guys I changed the rubber and the water not comes off anymore, but the exhaust pipe on the bottom still overheating. Just on the bottom, the top part from exhaust still in good temperature No body knows what’s going on ? The jetski going like 50mph, 2 minutes after just go like 10 because overheating
@@paulhaines5755 very helpful. Because of you I looked at all my lines and found one full of sand that went to my exhaust canister regulator. It was packed tight. My pisser was still spraying a bit, but my exhaust was overheating and warping plastic resonators. Because of your awesome video I knew the flow of water and figured it out. Thanks again, man. God bless you and your family.
@@1cont You bet! Thank you. I'm glad you figured it out!!! One thing I wish I would have stressed in these vids is that overheating is a big safety issue. If your going full bore and you have a water restriction, you starting burning up exhaust hoses and plastic fittings (sounds like you did that). Very quickly, you can fill your hull with water and "sink" it. You will get water in your engine and it won't run when this happens. Of course the hull is full of floatation so it only sinks half way but this is very dangerous if the water is cold or if you are in waves where it might be difficult to keep it upright. I know - it happened to me. The best reason to not ride alone or in sketchy/cold water conditions. When I let my friends ride, I always have them tell me the "flight plan" so I can take the boat out and look for them if needed. I inspect my machines when they are in full use daily for water leaks.
Exactly. Fortunately mine started leaking exhaust inside the hull. Ran like crap without oxygen. I took the seat off and saw all the melted plastic. I rode it to shore with seat off and while it was at shore it sank enough to get my sparkplugs wet. Now I straight piped it past all of the plastic and I'll will check my exhaust temperatures more often. Thanks again for making the videos to share your knowledge. ,A
So those bilge lines are supposed to be connected to the jet pump? I just picked up a 1999 GTI and those weren’t connected to anything. They were just loose laying in the very bottom back. I thought it was strange that they weren’t connected. I haven’t taken it out yet, just getting cleaned up for a test start.
Yes - 99 might be a little different than mine but here’s how mine is: The lines should be hooked up to fittings in the rear of the machine. The fittings are called “bailer fittings” These fitting are installed in the top, center of the “pump support” plate in the rear of the machine inside the hull. They should be two right next to each other. Tubes, maybe ½” diameter just guessing. If these lines are not hooked up, you are likely to take on water through the bailer fittings = not good so you need to fix it.
I have a little water coming out of the tell tale but it's very hot and I have outboard motor which I have never feel the temperature that hot from the tell tale do you think I might have problems?
It’s hard to say. Remember - I’m no expert just a wrencher wanna-be. I have a handful of outboards and all are “warm” so I agree with that. I’d guess my Sea-Doo is hotter on average but I’ve not checked it enough to really know as it’s hard to reach the tell-tale on these things. All I can say is that the exhaust system temp. on these varies a lot as you are running them (internally). I’ve rode around and pulled the seat off multiple times and checked the temp. of the double wall pipe and it feels like it’s all over the place depending on how you are riding so that’s going to correlate with tell-tale temp. The tell-tale on these might even be hotter at idle if I remember correctly. Maybe have someone run it with you on the back and feel the temp change as you go faster? As for tell-tale flow, these particular machines inherently have a weak tell-tale from what I know. A weep at idle and maybe a very short stream at higher RPM’s. I did a vid on “how to increase your tell-tale on a Sea-Doo GTI”. You might want to watch that to see if you get more ideas. I “modified” mine and it’s a nice 1 or 2 inch stream at idle and probably a foot or two long at full speed. Easy to see. Keep in mind, the tell-tale is merely a tool for you to see if you’re moving water inside the machine. Increasing the flow doesn’t really mean that you are affecting or improving the cooling system - only making it more visible. My advice: go through all the systems and check everything. Carefully check the exhaust hose fittings and clamps and make sure everything is aligned and tight. If it’s not shutting down (limp mode) on you when riding and you see no bubbling or damage of exhaust pipe rubber couplers, you are probably fine… Thanks!
Thank, Kurt! Hope this stuff helps you. I did not do that vid - sorry! I actually ended up tinkering with some stuff to make a new rear rubber hose and finally got tired of it and bought a used one (OEM P/N) on e-bay so the vid idea kinda went out the window. As for the other two rubber hose joints that are before the water-box on this machine, I was able to find hose at Napa for the smaller joint. The larger joint is very hard to find. I got it from McMaster-Carr and had to buy 1 foot for like $60. It is not a good idea to use silicon hose on these in my opinion. You will find silicon hose is readily available in many, many sizes. It will get soft and squishy. People do it but I don't like it. Trust me, you don't want these joints to come loose or fail. It will cause you a lot of problems and there is a potential to burn your rear thru-hull pipe and fill your machine with water. I'd inspect and replace the two joint prior to the water box if they look suspect at all. If you want me to, I think I can find the correct McMaster part number for the larger joint for you. Do you need that? The smaller one is easy to find and Napa can help you if you come in there with some measurements. Paul
Hmmmm - Again remember I'm no ace mechanic but there are a couple ways: 1) you filled or partially filled the hull with water at some point and water got sucked in through the carb, or 2) You've got a crack or bad gasket somewhere that is allowing water to enter the piston from the cooling systems. In that case, it's hard to guess where it could be sucking water in. I guess if you are lucky it would just be the head which would be pretty easy to replace. If it's elsewhere (i.e. - exhaust manifold, etc.), it will take some work and parts to fix it. I have not had that specific problem so it's hard to speculate. The vids I do are based on stuff I've actually done or had to fix and I have not had that happen to one of my machines, yet.
Maybe so! I'm going to replace all the fuel lines on this thing over the winter. It has the old, original grey lines which I'm told rot from the inside out. By the time I get done with it I should know the routing pretty good and could do an over-view vid on it. Paul
Tha ks a lot fpr this and your other videos on the sea doo. I just p icked up a 99 almost identical to yours aside from the exgaist exiting into the jet pump area and not the back end. You helped me get more familiar with the cooling and the jet pump so ill be able to easier troubleshoot down the road. I paid $2,100 for the ski and it wasnt running. Needed a battery they said so I got one and it barely turned over with the plugs in. I gpt a new starter and put that in (wow I almost got stuck insode with both arms wrapped down inside haha. Going to remove the seat clamshell like you mentioned next time for more room) she started up and runs good now in a warm garage. Just waiting for the ice to melt now!
Nice! You'll have fun with it. Inspect the exhaust joints close and make sure all the hoses are tight.
For others that have overheating issues that checked almost all the water lines and temp sensors and still have the high temperature warning check the elbow on the head with the intake water hose that sits underneath the fuel injection system it feeds the water through the top of the head and the cylinder head temp sensor is connected to that water jacket it usually gets clogged with calcium and Lyme and looks like concrete
Awesome explanation ! Thx !
Thanks mate this is exactly what happend to my seadoo thanks for all the tips 👍
You bet!
Love the video series for this sea doo. I have that exact one and the same issues/concerns. Would you share the size of and where you purchased the water port o-rings/grommets used in the jet pump housing (@8:45 in video)?
Think I found it, GTI part # 293300040
Yes - I looked up the part number and ordered parts. I can't verify this is the correct part number as I don't recall. Let me know if you need more info. Glad this helped you. Thanks! Paul
What about when hook up to hose on trailer? Just bought a 94 gtx that has had a 717 out in it and it runs great but on the hose it does not send water to tail tell it makes it to the small line at the T and about 3 inches down the tube but that’s it no more at idle or a little rev. It also doesn’t pump water to the top T on exhaust unless I pinch off the inlet hose behind where the flush valve is. This has inline flush valve on inlet hose. Even then it doesn’t shoot water to tail tell but top of exhaust runs cooler hence water them flowing to top exit port on pipe. It has me baffled maybe there is just not enough pressure when running off hose on trailer I dunno
Hmmm - wish I could help with this! I'm not sure. I've honestly not paid to much attention to the tell-tail when mine was running on hose on trailer so I don't know what is the norm. Sorry... Mine are stored and winterized otherwise I'd check it out for you.
Does it cause the machine to lose power
Paul, just came across your channel. I have a 2000 Sea-Doo GS with the 717 motor. I am having similar overheating issues as well. I am going to go through it this weekend like you instructed. I look through your video but may have missed it... did you ever produce a video on the exhaust parts / hoses? As I will need to source some of these parts. My issue is interesting as I believe my system is cooling (my system is identical to yours btw) as the motor does not overheat during operation. But, I am getting discoloration in the exhaust cone, clearly getting too hot. Also, the 5in coupling that ties together the manifold to the exhaust cone has blown out twice in the last year (blew a hole on the side of the rubber coupling). I have a lot of riding to do this summer so I plan on working through it this weekend. Lemme know if you have any more thoughts. Thanks!
Good catch! I did say I was going to do a vid on that. I did not. However, I can give you a mcmaster carr part number for a 5" coupling hose section that works perfectly. You can buy 12" and cut like three out of it. The part number is: 5285K117 As for the rubber exhaust line in the rear, I attempted to make something out or flexible hose but it didn't work out so I ended up buying a used hose SEADOO part number on e-bay. Honestly, if you could get away with silicone hoses and elbows like what are used on diesel turbos and such I think you could make that rear section. However, silicon tends to get a little spongy if it's subject to oil as in like 2 cycle exhaust so I don't know if that's an option but I did look into it. Something for you to think about I guess. Look at the o-rings in the back on your machine where the pressurized water enters the hull. You might be having issues due to them folding. Thanks Paul
One thing to add: What is the condition of your wear ring? It's possible for it to get worn to the point where it could affect water pressure going to the engine. Replacing a worn wear ring will also boast the performance a very noticable amount.
You seem like you know a thing or 2 about these. Before I even go to the trouble of checking all this can you tell me if my ski is burnt up?! I say that because you mentioned if you don't see any pee.... just stop. Well I was driving and not looking back for any of that, came to a slow down in a cove and saw the "hi temp" warning on the display and it died. Tried several times after that to crank, but it would start to crank and then like there wasn't enough energy to actually turn over anything. Not sure how the battery or anything would be too weak since it started 15 min before this with no issue. So do you think I've burnt something up and forget it or anything for me to try? 2002 gtx rfi. Thank you!
Bummer! It's hard to say. Don't lose hope. I'm pretty sure these machines should go into limp mode when the overheat so it's hard to kill the engine as they don't allow you to rev up much when hot and you'd know before you ran it too long. Both of mine do but they are not the same model as yours. The difficulty in turning over the engine is a little worry-some. though. First I'd get it on a trailer and try to start it with hose on it and fully charged battery. If it still turns over hard, I'd go underneath and check for obstructions on the drive/impellor. These machines are direct drive which means the starter has to turn over the drive shaft to the impellor as well as the engine all at the same time. An obstruction could cause hard starting and/or overheating. Let me know what you see.
Hi Paul. My 2002 GTI is doing the same. My tell tale is out the side by your left foot. It was blocked solid. I blew it out with an air compressor as well as all the other lines. I still have no water coming out of the tell tale. Wondering if this o ring/seal is my problem too. Not enough pressure pumping the water in. Thoughts?
Hmm - not sure about the design of a 2002 and the orings. Mine is a 1997. Mine was overheating and that's why I had to "fix" the o-rings. As for tell tale, I'd get you have blockage somewhere that you have not found yet. If pressure is low, the tell-tale might not work. Is it overheating?
@@paulhaines5755 Thanks Paul. Someone prior to me owning it added a check valve on the inlet hose. We removed it and problem solved. There must have been some kind of pressure loss there because it now circulates perfect. Thanks for the tutorial video about how the system works. Awesome information for guys like me who aren't mechanics.
Nicely done! Yea - any sort of restriction in these things is bad I think. I'm no mechanic that's for sure but sometimes I think the novice perspective is just as or more helpful than the person who does this stuff all the time. I wonder what a check valve is for? Maybe they towed it a lot behind a boat and wanted to not have to keep on clamping the inlet as you are supposed to do...
i took off top heads only and was full off sand fully clogged and scraped it with screw driver and flushed it with water hose and also rinsed exhaust pipe and unclogged with screw driver.
I cleared hoses from sand also
Cool! Thanks for the input.
Guys I changed the rubber and the water not comes off anymore, but the exhaust pipe on the bottom still overheating. Just on the bottom, the top part from exhaust still in good temperature
No body knows what’s going on ?
The jetski going like 50mph, 2 minutes after just go like 10 because overheating
Awesome video. Nice work, Sir!
Thank You. Hope it's helpful.
@@paulhaines5755 very helpful. Because of you I looked at all my lines and found one full of sand that went to my exhaust canister regulator. It was packed tight. My pisser was still spraying a bit, but my exhaust was overheating and warping plastic resonators.
Because of your awesome video I knew the flow of water and figured it out.
Thanks again, man. God bless you and your family.
@@1cont You bet! Thank you. I'm glad you figured it out!!! One thing I wish I would have stressed in these vids is that overheating is a big safety issue. If your going full bore and you have a water restriction, you starting burning up exhaust hoses and plastic fittings (sounds like you did that). Very quickly, you can fill your hull with water and "sink" it. You will get water in your engine and it won't run when this happens. Of course the hull is full of floatation so it only sinks half way but this is very dangerous if the water is cold or if you are in waves where it might be difficult to keep it upright. I know - it happened to me. The best reason to not ride alone or in sketchy/cold water conditions. When I let my friends ride, I always have them tell me the "flight plan" so I can take the boat out and look for them if needed. I inspect my machines when they are in full use daily for water leaks.
Exactly. Fortunately mine started leaking exhaust inside the hull. Ran like crap without oxygen. I took the seat off and saw all the melted plastic. I rode it to shore with seat off and while it was at shore it sank enough to get my sparkplugs wet.
Now I straight piped it past all of the plastic and I'll will check my exhaust temperatures more often. Thanks again for making the videos to share your knowledge.
,A
So those bilge lines are supposed to be connected to the jet pump? I just picked up a 1999 GTI and those weren’t connected to anything. They were just loose laying in the very bottom back. I thought it was strange that they weren’t connected. I haven’t taken it out yet, just getting cleaned up for a test start.
Yes - 99 might be a little different than mine but here’s how mine is: The lines should be hooked up to fittings in the rear of the machine. The fittings are called “bailer fittings” These fitting are installed in the top, center of the “pump support” plate in the rear of the machine inside the hull. They should be two right next to each other. Tubes, maybe ½” diameter just guessing. If these lines are not hooked up, you are likely to take on water through the bailer fittings = not good so you need to fix it.
@@paulhaines5755 Thanks so much for the quick reply Paul! Best of luck to you and have fun out on the water!
I have a little water coming out of the tell tale but it's very hot and I have outboard motor which I have never feel the temperature that hot from the tell tale do you think I might have problems?
It’s hard to say. Remember - I’m no expert just a wrencher wanna-be. I have a handful of outboards and all are “warm” so I agree with that. I’d guess my Sea-Doo is hotter on average but I’ve not checked it enough to really know as it’s hard to reach the tell-tale on these things. All I can say is that the exhaust system temp. on these varies a lot as you are running them (internally). I’ve rode around and pulled the seat off multiple times and checked the temp. of the double wall pipe and it feels like it’s all over the place depending on how you are riding so that’s going to correlate with tell-tale temp. The tell-tale on these might even be hotter at idle if I remember correctly. Maybe have someone run it with you on the back and feel the temp change as you go faster? As for tell-tale flow, these particular machines inherently have a weak tell-tale from what I know. A weep at idle and maybe a very short stream at higher RPM’s. I did a vid on “how to increase your tell-tale on a Sea-Doo GTI”. You might want to watch that to see if you get more ideas. I “modified” mine and it’s a nice 1 or 2 inch stream at idle and probably a foot or two long at full speed. Easy to see. Keep in mind, the tell-tale is merely a tool for you to see if you’re moving water inside the machine. Increasing the flow doesn’t really mean that you are affecting or improving the cooling system - only making it more visible. My advice: go through all the systems and check everything. Carefully check the exhaust hose fittings and clamps and make sure everything is aligned and tight. If it’s not shutting down (limp mode) on you when riding and you see no bubbling or damage of exhaust pipe rubber couplers, you are probably fine… Thanks!
I just found your channel. Did you ever do a video on replacing parts from NAPA? You have some great videos!
Thank, Kurt! Hope this stuff helps you. I did not do that vid - sorry! I actually ended up tinkering with some stuff to make a new rear rubber hose and finally got tired of it and bought a used one (OEM P/N) on e-bay so the vid idea kinda went out the window. As for the other two rubber hose joints that are before the water-box on this machine, I was able to find hose at Napa for the smaller joint. The larger joint is very hard to find. I got it from McMaster-Carr and had to buy 1 foot for like $60. It is not a good idea to use silicon hose on these in my opinion. You will find silicon hose is readily available in many, many sizes. It will get soft and squishy. People do it but I don't like it. Trust me, you don't want these joints to come loose or fail. It will cause you a lot of problems and there is a potential to burn your rear thru-hull pipe and fill your machine with water. I'd inspect and replace the two joint prior to the water box if they look suspect at all. If you want me to, I think I can find the correct McMaster part number for the larger joint for you. Do you need that? The smaller one is easy to find and Napa can help you if you come in there with some measurements. Paul
I have water inside the piston. How does this happen
Hmmmm - Again remember I'm no ace mechanic but there are a couple ways: 1) you filled or partially filled the hull with water at some point and water got sucked in through the carb, or 2) You've got a crack or bad gasket somewhere that is allowing water to enter the piston from the cooling systems. In that case, it's hard to guess where it could be sucking water in. I guess if you are lucky it would just be the head which would be pretty easy to replace. If it's elsewhere (i.e. - exhaust manifold, etc.), it will take some work and parts to fix it. I have not had that specific problem so it's hard to speculate. The vids I do are based on stuff I've actually done or had to fix and I have not had that happen to one of my machines, yet.
Thank you!
You bet! Hope it helps you.
Great video, thanks!!!
Can you do one on fuel lines????
Maybe so! I'm going to replace all the fuel lines on this thing over the winter. It has the old, original grey lines which I'm told rot from the inside out. By the time I get done with it I should know the routing pretty good and could do an over-view vid on it. Paul
I just did one - hope it helps you.
Hopefully this will help me find the problem with my 787