The BMS holder is a great idea! One critic: the position of the master switches: I would strongly advice that these are like the fist thing you see on a device. With the master switch behind some of the cables, you get the feeling you have to reach into the device to get to the master switch. This is maybe ok for the designer of the system, not for the average person -like even a fireman- that might be faced with a dangerous situation. Also, when you cover the rack; these switches cannot be used anymore (but maybe you foresee another breaker that can be easily reached?). One other point: I had build into a 12V battery such a main switch (Like the 250-400A version or something...). Recently, after 2 years of usage, it didn't turn off the battery when I switched it; only on a third attempt it did do the job. After 2 years of usage in a camper van, this was maybe the 2th time I actually switched off the battery. Max currents in use was around 120A. With that experience in mind, such switches don't feel safe in a battery that is used daily. I would rather check for some real industrial DC breakers that guarantee they will work after 10 years... And then I checked the link to the switch... the switch you refer to is only rated "75A(48V)"; I doubt it is safe to use this in your system. Especially if they don't have a max current rating at 56V . This switch is just not suited.
Hey Walter, thanks again for the great feedback. Honestly I didn't saw the 75A/48V. I noticed 300A....and I know these are chinese amps, so I assumed and assessed 150A. In my system, don't think I will ever use more then 40A per bank, ofcourse if you built a single 1x 16S you need a better switch. Will keep searching for better hardware to improve the powerwall. In my case, the switch is "emergency switch". In normal use I will never use the switch, and if I have to use, I'll try to do it with zero load on the switch. Have a nice evening. Franky
@Easypowerwall actually it is even worse; they give you 1 current value as the max value. If they are serious with their specs, there should be a very clear indication this is continous current and not a short peak current. Basically we have no idea what the real spec is of this switch AT 56V. Related to the max current with 4 banks. You could argue that each bank will take 1/4 of the load. That is the ideal situation. But if you aim to maximize charging and discharging you could hit the situation that 3 of the banks are full or empty and 1 takes all the load. This you have to prevent by having a real smart BMS that knows how many of the powerbanks are active and informs the inverter to limit load or charging. We will see if the JK can do this :-). I wouldn't trust this BMS without thoroughly testing this. Or differently; I would make the design so that each battery can take the full load. Unless I find this smarter BMS. And I can imagine a lot of situations in the coming 20 years the solution is in use, the number of batteries is reduced for wathever reason.
Hey John, The holes are mainly for heat dissipation. Secondary, if there's damp inside the unit because of rapid changing temp, the damp can escape via the little holes; Have a nice day. Franky - easypowerwall
Hi Philippe. Replacing a perfect product which offers all features in 1 box replacing by 2 products is a step backwards in my world. So no, it would add extra complexity. Feel free to challenge me. Franky - EASYPOWERWALL
The BMS holder is a great idea!
One critic: the position of the master switches: I would strongly advice that these are like the fist thing you see on a device. With the master switch behind some of the cables, you get the feeling you have to reach into the device to get to the master switch. This is maybe ok for the designer of the system, not for the average person -like even a fireman- that might be faced with a dangerous situation. Also, when you cover the rack; these switches cannot be used anymore (but maybe you foresee another breaker that can be easily reached?).
One other point: I had build into a 12V battery such a main switch (Like the 250-400A version or something...). Recently, after 2 years of usage, it didn't turn off the battery when I switched it; only on a third attempt it did do the job. After 2 years of usage in a camper van, this was maybe the 2th time I actually switched off the battery. Max currents in use was around 120A. With that experience in mind, such switches don't feel safe in a battery that is used daily. I would rather check for some real industrial DC breakers that guarantee they will work after 10 years...
And then I checked the link to the switch... the switch you refer to is only rated "75A(48V)"; I doubt it is safe to use this in your system. Especially if they don't have a max current rating at 56V . This switch is just not suited.
Hey Walter, thanks again for the great feedback. Honestly I didn't saw the 75A/48V. I noticed 300A....and I know these are chinese amps, so I assumed and assessed 150A. In my system, don't think I will ever use more then 40A per bank, ofcourse if you built a single 1x 16S you need a better switch. Will keep searching for better hardware to improve the powerwall.
In my case, the switch is "emergency switch". In normal use I will never use the switch, and if I have to use, I'll try to do it with zero load on the switch.
Have a nice evening.
Franky
@Easypowerwall actually it is even worse; they give you 1 current value as the max value. If they are serious with their specs, there should be a very clear indication this is continous current and not a short peak current. Basically we have no idea what the real spec is of this switch AT 56V.
Related to the max current with 4 banks. You could argue that each bank will take 1/4 of the load. That is the ideal situation. But if you aim to maximize charging and discharging you could hit the situation that 3 of the banks are full or empty and 1 takes all the load. This you have to prevent by having a real smart BMS that knows how many of the powerbanks are active and informs the inverter to limit load or charging.
We will see if the JK can do this :-).
I wouldn't trust this BMS without thoroughly testing this.
Or differently; I would make the design so that each battery can take the full load. Unless I find this smarter BMS. And I can imagine a lot of situations in the coming 20 years the solution is in use, the number of batteries is reduced for wathever reason.
Awesome video 👏 Keep up the amazing work
Thanks for the kind words, a real motivation to create more content. Have a nice day.
Why did you drill holes in bms?
Thanks beautiful work!!
Hey John,
The holes are mainly for heat dissipation. Secondary, if there's damp inside the unit because of rapid changing temp, the damp can escape via the little holes;
Have a nice day.
Franky - easypowerwall
Why not a 200-250A Pace or Seplos BMS? I was thinking that had the best features etc. And a Neey 4A balancer at the side :)
Hi Philippe. Replacing a perfect product which offers all features in 1 box replacing by 2 products is a step backwards in my world. So no, it would add extra complexity. Feel free to challenge me.
Franky - EASYPOWERWALL
Great video! Do you have some details on where you bought the 280ah cells?
Hey Jens, check the website easypowerwall.com -> parts and tools for links to the cells and hardware used to built the powerwall 🔋. Have a nice day.
il porta batterie che dimensioni ha ;;;E la distanza fra i due pianni delle batterie qualle e ;;;
This bms has 4 mounting holes on the back plate
Good tip Nic. I would have used them with a horizontal installation, with the vertical approach they're less useful.
how are u?are u interested in Seplos storage battery,battery bms? with active balancer
For now I stick to DIY solutions. Please keep working on a balancer with >1A balancing current.
@@easypowerwall Seplos will,and also provide DIY kits without cells
way 2 go
JK BMS HOLDER @ Thingiverse
Good idea.....will make it available to everyone.