ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 พ.ค. 2024
- Get yours here: www.miniwargaming.com/r/p1p
My favourite 3D printer for miniatures: www.miniwargaming.com/mighty
Matthew and James take a look at the Bambu Lab P1P 3D Printer and see how it holds up to the much more expensive Bambu Lab X1 Carbon when it comes to printing terrain.
While the link above is an affiliate link, I bought this printer, and I was not asked by Bambu Lab to make this review. I signed up for the affiliate program after I fell in love with the printer.
Want some cool terrain to print? Here are a few:
Hex Map Tiles: www.miniwargaming.com/hexton
Fantasy Terrain: www.miniwargaming.com/printable
Sci-fi Terrain: www.miniwargaming.com/warscenery
Get yours here: www.miniwargaming.com/r/p1p
My favourite 3D printer for miniatures: www.miniwargaming.com/mighty
Want some cool terrain to print? Here are a few:
Hex Map Tiles: www.miniwargaming.com/hexton
Fantasy Terrain: www.miniwargaming.com/printable
Sci-fi Terrain: www.miniwargaming.com/warscenery
Great video. My P1P has been churning out beautiful and fast models for months without any major issues. This is one awesome machine!
Incredible. Tutorial videos are excellent, keep them coming. I just found my affordable way back into the hobby. Thanks guys!
I don't load the filament that way. I just eject the last roll scrap and feed the new roll in. When it does it's purge it pulls it in perfectly. Also try .16 or even .12 if you want the layer lines to go away. I also use hairspray if I'm worried about a large print sticking. It works great.
How do you use the hairspray? Pre-spray the texture plate? Or spray after the print so done?
Cheers, I just ordered the P1P printer due to watching your review, so tip of the cap! My first 3d printer! However, I cant find that Swamp building from the provided link. It now redirects to printablescenery, but can't seem to find it there either. Id love to get that terrain as my first purchase.
You made me get back into 3d printing after a few years of depression. I sprung on the Bambu lab you recommended, and it's among others because i backed Hexton Hills originally, and i see you print them on yours.
Can't wait to get mine, and get back to printing my hexton hills sets. So much have come out between now and then.
Awesome! You'll love it. :)
Thanks for this awesome video. I am in the market for a Filament 3D printer so this was really informative. Oh and I love the T-Shirt by the way, I too am a Wooden Spoon Survivor 🤣
Little bit out of my price range, but this was an amazing video that has put a fantastic printer on my 'want' list for the future.
Savour the peelies.
lol yup
So basically, Bambulab for terrain & Vehicles and a resin printer for minis?
what profile settings did you use for that tree and ruins? It looks AMAZING!
Great stuff, Matthew (and James!)
Amazing how user friendly and fast to set up printers are these days-and those results!! The quality and price h certainly piqued my interest for a new FDM printer when I have the space.
It's true! When I started just last year it seemed like everything was harder. Now it's easier not just because of experience, but because of the quality of printers that have been coming out.
I wouldn't be surprised to have to make a new "this is now my favourite printer" video every few months with how fast things are improving.
I love my two P1Ps they print terrain SO fast. Will you guys do a detailed video on your resin ventilation setup?
It’s on the list. :)
Good morning!
Was curious how long it took to print the larger terrain piece in this video?
Look into using a .2 nozzle and adjust layer height accordingly if you want to avoid larger layer lines. Years ago when you used to have to build your own 3d printers, I had a prusa clone and printed fine detail dungeon tiles with almost no layer lines. You'll sacrifice time for quality, but that's how it goes with FDM printing.
I was thinking of experimenting with that too. It’s nice though that the Bambus just get better quality and print faster to boot.
Great video! Just an fyi, on the screen there is a "Feeding" menu that makes it much easier to load and unload filament. Or you can use the app
Great channel!!! Would this printer print both terrain and miniatures or would you need two separate printers? If separate, any you’d recommend that does both?
Would love to see a noob version of printer with this recommendation.
This printer + safety prep of the room (ventilation equipment for a normal person or if it can be done in a garage) + the type of resin + getting an STL + settings on the printer + shit I don’t know + the alcohol bath + curing station (with all the affiliate links… ❤)
About the abrasive filament thing; Bambu just had a thing where folks that bought printers in the last year or so got offered stupidly cheap PLA-CF bundles. Could be marketing hype but the layer lines being less visible has me considering the nozzle/extruder upgrade since you need the hardened steel ones.
Honestly wouldn’t have bothered with non-PLA otherwise though. Really cool to see how it handles terrain! Even .20mm layers looks really nice on those.
Amazing
Thinking about getting a printer to do terrain and this video is super timely. (You would have gotten a sub based solely on James' Angels shirt)
Hey @MWGForge had a question for you guys, is there any chance you'd be willing to make a video discussing some of the big FDM brands like Anycubic, Creality and Prusa and their pros and cons? I have some experience in printing and want to upgrade to a new one, but trying to parse through online information is a task in and of itself. Would love your guys opinions on some of the brands!
the slow wifi and lack of remote monitoring off network is the only thing I miss on the P1P, love checking my X1C print from literally anywhere
Yeah I didn’t catch that in the review. Those are definitely a couple of components that they went cheaper with.
Slow wifi is unfortunately still there so it takes forever to load but they did add remote viewing from anywhere in the last firmware update! Files also download and unpack a lot faster now which is nice.
@@caketality for reals? SIC, tytyty
Awesome, how long did it take to print that large terrain piece???
Man, that is such a great price!
I have a P1P. There is a much easier way to load and swap filament. On screen select 2nd icon on the left hand vwertical menu, then scroll down to the word "Feeding" and select it with the "OK". Then move to the right side and choose unload to ... unload and load for the reverse. Makes life a lot easier.
have you guys done a video on hexton hills. I saw the map for a second and was wondering how big it is and if you have showed it off.
Not yet, but we will be soonish.
I play a lot of 40k and love medium to large buildings... ruins... as such I was wondering which of your files would be best to buy for that kind of mixture?
The Rampage line from Printable Scenery is pretty good: www.printablescenery.com/product-category/pledges/rampage-gothic/gothic-cathedral/?affiliates=65ded5353c5ee48d0b7d48c591b8f430
Or you could try searching on MyMiniFactory.com
Have you ever tried using Cura's lightning supports? They really cut down on print times for non load bearing prints.
I haven’t. I’ll check it out!
Wish I'd bought one of these instead of my Anycubic Kobra 2.
After about 500 print hours, my Kobra 2 needs more repairing than is worth doing to it.
Have heard these go months without problems and only need basic maintenance.
What brand of PLA are you folks using? When my budget allows I'm going to pick one of these up and want to make sure I'm using compatible stuff.
That swamp print is insane without supports.
Really great video, thanks for a decent deep dive into this printer.
Honestly we just use any PLA that is cheap. So far there have been few problems caused by the PLA we use. Sometimes we get a bad roll but 99% of the time they work fine.
@MWGForge
Thanks for the advice. You guys should do a follow up video showing basic maintenance for the Bambu.
By the way there is a setting to allow you to load and unload filament. You do this by clicking the setting that says feeding and it will then give you an option to load or unload the filament. It is really easy to do
We found that after! :)
Any major differences in speed between the different Bambus? I've been looking at the carbon for a while for the utility but if the p1p can handle 90% of what I want to do for half the price, that might be the one.
We talk about it in the video, but basically the P1P is a stripped down version, which is 100% fine for printing terrain. If you care about printing in other materials then you'll probably want to go with the X1 Carbon. Otherwise save your money, or buy two printers!
James the forge master.
One day we'll get him in cosplay for this. :)
What material do you recommend for terrain from printable scenery on the x1 carbon or P1P
Any basic PLA will work just fine.
Would you recommend this over a prusa Mk3+ ? strictly for terrain
Yes 100%.
It looks like on the photo that you’re showing between the carbon and a P1P the P1P wins hands down on this particular photo. Look at the doorways on the buildings much more detail massively more detail. I’m waiting for my MK4 kit. some people like their Hyundai’s and Kia‘s, I’ll take my Toyotas and Lexuses thank you very much!
I wonder how loud is the P1P in comparison to the Carbon? I would need to keep the printer in my apartment and the less noisy it gets the better it is (mostly for the sake of my neighbours :D). Since the Carbon has a closed housing I suppose it would be more quiet when closed and running.
The fans can get loud. I haven’t yet experimented with turning them down. You would definitely notice if it’s in the same room as you.
@@MWGForge Thanks for the reply! Does the casing of the Carbon help with that, or is it not really noticable? I imagine you might not really have tested this and heared any difference, because you guys have so many machines running in this room :-D (also there is no need to in your forge :-D)
Wth, they ship with green PLA?
I got only white so far 😢
Hello, there is feeding option for load and unload filament, it heats nozzle and load or unload filament automaticaly.
I’ll check that out! Thanks!
Did you manage to stop the stringing on the branches?
Not really, but they're easy to fix with a heat gun.
You don't need to manually feed the filament in the P1P
The song sounds like a car commercial. For like a truck.
your editor might want to work or audio mixing. the voices and the location of the audio channels for the voices are swapped and it's disconcerting. Great review of the P1P. I might seriously consider buying one now that they actually ship to my region. Also the nozzle on the p1p should be able to handle ABS its not like ABS is an abrasive material. The main reason I would use ABS for terrain is acetone vapor smoothing to remove any layer lines. That and if i wanted to be able to leave terrain in my car for when i want to play at someone else's house. The Problem with ABS is that it likes a warm printing environment and the p1p without housing wouldn't be able to do tall prints.
Good points!
the only reason to print cf filament is that it looks cool although they aren't ay better than pla
What settings did you use? That looks pretty bad ngl.
I'm not sure what you're seeing, but they look great to me! 10% infill, default layer height (0.2mm). Default everything else.
The comment about the Ender 3 makes me laugh, I have one, works fine, except it has some slop in the Y axis so everything gets slightly stretched. But it's for printing terrain or props so it isn't that big of a deal.
However I'll keep this printer in mind for when I move and hopefully get a proper workshop as I do want to upgrade my FDM printer to something better, and also get some more Elegoo's for mini printing. So many cool things to print and paint that creative artists have come up with.
I'm enjoying these videos and it's inspiring me to finally change the FEP sheet on my Mars.
Why does no one do a filament other than PLA that is the real test!
Because for terrain printing you'd never use anything other than PLA. Testing another type of filament would be a non-test. They explain it in the video.
the comparison between a X1C and the P1P ist stupid as the P1P is a stripped down X1...so all the mechanic is the same...only print relevant difference is the nozzle...hardened steel on the X1
I had already been recommending the X1 Carbon, so it's relevant in that sense that I discovered I could get the cheaper printer and keep all of the benefits I like.
Review after one day 🤡
I'll definitely be coming back to this after printing a bunch. :)