Thank you for explaining the different display problems! On all my four High Speed displays I have one segment that is always lit! So I'm diagnosing the solders and segment chips on my display boards. I'm a novice, so your videos are helping me.
Great Video Joe, i had all 6 of the lower segments on 1 of my displays go out last night. Not sure why! Looks like i will be soldering displays today :)
If you ever run into backlighted LCD displays, especially those that have leads attached to the glass panel like in these VFD/plasma displays, they can be very sensitive to the tension applied to the leads (because they in turn apply tension to the glass). I have fitted pieces of LED strip to rpelace the backlight in some, and sometimes to access the backlight you need to detach the display panel from the PCB. In that case it is best to have the patience to desolder all the leads and not just bend them so you can access the backlight. Any tension to the glass may make some elements look like stuck on or off, or illuminate only partially. Also note that when replacing incandescent backlights with LED's, the LED color affects the way the display looks, sometimes dramatically. On a CD player that used to have brown elements on black background, which used a blue filter and undervoltaged incandescent bulbs, putting in a white LED changed the elements to white on blue background. It looks neat that way too, but if a device had more than one display, then it might be best to do all of them the same way. Maybe a high intensity yellow or orange LED might have looked more like the original, a red one might have worked too, but a blue one might not have given much contrast at all.
@@LyonsArcade hey joe I bought a bally kings of steel for a project....it powers up the mpu flashes once thats it.....Could it be a chip....I checked all the pins solder and there good.....any suggestions?
Joe, Fantastic! Thank you.I have a new to me Star Trek without displays working at all. I have rebuilt and adjusted the Solenoid driver board to 190V. I have a bit more checking to do but do all display have to be plugged in for any to work? I am currently trying without one display as I know it is bad. Thx.
You can plug it in with no displays, or 0,1,2,3,4,5 in any position and it won't hurt. Just plug in whichever you want to test out and you'll be alright. Good luck!
If it's on one display it might be the capacitor or the diode on the display, if it's on all of them it's probably the voltage coming off the solenoid board. you can check the voltage at the solenoid board and then check it again on the display to see if it's lower, should be 180 or more volts dc.
Thanks for this. I'm about to start troubleshooting an issue on my Harlem Globetrotters where thebfirst digit is missing from players 1 and 4 and also player 4's display looks "wavy".
What's wrong when all four score displays don't light up? We're working then just quit lighting. The incadesent lights come on it's only the displays, all four, and credit match etc. All the LED lights.
There's a power supply in the backbox on the top right that creates the voltage that runs the displays, either the fuse has blown or there's a loose connection on one of the connectors that sends the power to the displays...
JOE CLASSIC, Pinball games have different Aspect Ratios, but I'm not sure what they mean by the different Aspect Ratios. Some displays have a DOT and other have a COMMA which are 0.0.0. and others are 0,0,0, so I'm not sure if they mean the DOT or the COMMA is the Aspect Ratios or the Slant of the number?
Tim if they won't light up there may be a resistor or diode burnt up on the display but more than likely it's because the glass has evacuated all the gas in it and it can't be replaced without putting a new glass on it. They're really expensive if you can even get them anymore unfortunately....
Yes Amy, these went in our Star Trek, but they also fit pretty much all of the early Bally games, so anything from 77 to 82 or so. After that, they used the same thing but they had 7 digits (so fixing them is the same). Eventually they invented the 'alpha numeric' glasses that made these obsolete.
I have one thats going crazy. Its adding sporadic points even when it's not that player's turn. I had it on player 2 and whenever player 1 played, it added points to player 2. I moved it to player 4 and now its doing it there. The first digit (ones) flashes random numbers. I reflowed all the solder, but no joy. Do you think it's the decoder chip or something easier to change?
It's pretty much got to be the decoder chip... since it followed wherever you moved it to, you know it's on that actual pcb and not the wiring harness of the game's MPU.... there are a few transistors involved for each digit (and each segment) but they'll just make your digit disappear, if you're getting the wrong number it's almost always the decoder chip....
Hi Joe i Have a rapid fire with a brand new alltek mpu but the credit display has a line of 8s, when i go into display test the left displays go to 0 to 9 but credit remains the same is this a mpu problem or display problem thx
It’s more than likely a bad connector pin on the plug that plugs into the mpu... the Alltek is very durable very little chance it has any problems at all. Unplug both the displays and swap em see if the display changes in a different position.
Or if you have one of the players score displays has a burned in first or 4th digit.... use it as the credit/ball in play display since they usually never use those digits :) Unless your machine has one of those fancy segmented displays that can do text :P
Always enjoy your videos.. maybe I missed it but on my bally's evil knievel.. the player 4 display is showing no digits at all. I swapped them around and when plug in a good display into 4 it works.. so if a display is showing no digits any ideas to try? Thx
first thing to do is reflow the solder on the edge connector, it may be the voltage isn't making it onto the board... but usually when a single display doesn't show anything it's because the glass has went bad on it.
I had so many resistors about to burn up, already burnt ones, and a broken transistor! You didn't say that if the digits were flickering it is the chip and the part where you explain the resistors ohms was weird. Can't you just read the resistors like 1st color = 10s place, 2nd color = 1s place, 3rd color = multiplier, 4th color = tolerance? Anyways good video for beginners.
Hey Ron, wasn't sure how to msg aside from commenting on a video. So i'm working on the trident displays, reflowing the pins and two of the displays had 1.4K resistors soldered underneath the Q7-12 one of them broke off and before i go through the trouble of replacing it I was wondering if this was some sort of mod? the 100K and 300K resistors all test ok. Only two of the displays had this done, they both happen to be Beckman displays.
Im not sure why those are on there but I’ve seen them on dozens of displays…. I’ll bet it has to do with the Beckmann glass like you mentioned… I always leave them figuring somebody did it for a reason. You can always email on our website too at LyonsArcade.com
My machine has a weird problem where only 3 displays work and I switched them all around so it’s not a problem with the machine. The displays that don’t work have no sign of life once so ever. Not a shimmer or a glow at all.
It might be bad solder on the pins the connector sends power through on the edge but usually if they won't do anything it's the glass is bad which can't be easily repaired.
Great information. I appreciate you taking the time to make all these how to videos.
Fixed a missing digit thanks to your video! You’re making feel like I can repair anything on my Bally Supersonic 🤘🏻
Hey I just want to say thank you. I used this video to check my lamp driver board and it diagnosed my issue.
Very cool glad you got it going!
Thank you for explaining the different display problems! On all my four High Speed displays I have one segment that is always lit! So I'm diagnosing the solders and segment chips on my display boards. I'm a novice, so your videos are helping me.
I just went through almost the same thing on a PinBot that might help you.... th-cam.com/video/xPQ_nSFM2DM/w-d-xo.html
Hey joe.. I called the other day to say thank you. Appreciate the videos
No problem, glad you were able to get some fixed!
Excellent tutorial! Keep them coming!
No problem Eric!
Excellent info here
Thank you for watching Bill!
Great Video Joe, i had all 6 of the lower segments on 1 of my displays go out last night. Not sure why! Looks like i will be soldering displays today :)
Great video - I was able to repair my display in one step. Thanks and keep the videos coming!
Very cool, glad you got it working!
I live in Karachi Pakistan and I like your comment send 10 month old
@@LyonsArcade I live in Karachi Pakistan and I follow your channel TH-cam
I always put flux on the old solder to rework it if I am not removing and replacing it.
Brilliant video, really useful, like all of them.
Glad you enjoyed it Simon, we'll see you on the next one :)
If you ever run into backlighted LCD displays, especially those that have leads attached to the glass panel like in these VFD/plasma displays, they can be very sensitive to the tension applied to the leads (because they in turn apply tension to the glass). I have fitted pieces of LED strip to rpelace the backlight in some, and sometimes to access the backlight you need to detach the display panel from the PCB. In that case it is best to have the patience to desolder all the leads and not just bend them so you can access the backlight. Any tension to the glass may make some elements look like stuck on or off, or illuminate only partially.
Also note that when replacing incandescent backlights with LED's, the LED color affects the way the display looks, sometimes dramatically. On a CD player that used to have brown elements on black background, which used a blue filter and undervoltaged incandescent bulbs, putting in a white LED changed the elements to white on blue background. It looks neat that way too, but if a device had more than one display, then it might be best to do all of them the same way. Maybe a high intensity yellow or orange LED might have looked more like the original, a red one might have worked too, but a blue one might not have given much contrast at all.
I live in Karachi Pakistan and I like your comment send 10 month ago
What temperature do you set your iron to reflow solder on a board like this?
Good info!
Glad it was helpful!
you the man....A++++
Thanks Michel we appreciate you watching!
@@LyonsArcade hey joe I bought a bally kings of steel for a project....it powers up the mpu flashes once thats it.....Could it be a chip....I checked all the pins solder and there good.....any suggestions?
very helpful. Thanks
Thank you for watching Martin!
I bought 2 machines a few months back. I'm a complete beginner and learning as I go along. Your videos are excellent.
Joe, Fantastic! Thank you.I have a new to me Star Trek without displays working at all. I have rebuilt and adjusted the Solenoid driver board to 190V. I have a bit more checking to do but do all display have to be plugged in for any to work? I am currently trying without one display as I know it is bad. Thx.
You can plug it in with no displays, or 0,1,2,3,4,5 in any position and it won't hurt. Just plug in whichever you want to test out and you'll be alright. Good luck!
How about if all the digits are dim
If it's on one display it might be the capacitor or the diode on the display, if it's on all of them it's probably the voltage coming off the solenoid board. you can check the voltage at the solenoid board and then check it again on the display to see if it's lower, should be 180 or more volts dc.
What kind of supply? Like a transformer? What voltage do u know? Thx!
There's a power supply in the top right corner of the backbox, all the voltages are in the manual it's 180volts or so.
Thanks for this. I'm about to start troubleshooting an issue on my Harlem Globetrotters where thebfirst digit is missing from players 1 and 4 and also player 4's display looks "wavy".
What's wrong when all four score displays don't light up? We're working then just quit lighting. The incadesent lights come on it's only the displays, all four, and credit match etc. All the LED lights.
There's a power supply in the backbox on the top right that creates the voltage that runs the displays, either the fuse has blown or there's a loose connection on one of the connectors that sends the power to the displays...
JOE CLASSIC, Pinball games have different Aspect Ratios, but I'm not sure what they mean by the different Aspect Ratios. Some displays have a DOT and other have a COMMA which are 0.0.0. and others are 0,0,0, so I'm not sure if they mean the DOT or the COMMA is the Aspect Ratios or the Slant of the number?
Nice you have save few displays on that good tips...
Hopefully it'll keep a few of 'em running....
Joe what about displays that not even lit up...is there a way to bring them back to life?
Tim if they won't light up there may be a resistor or diode burnt up on the display but more than likely it's because the glass has evacuated all the gas in it and it can't be replaced without putting a new glass on it. They're really expensive if you can even get them anymore unfortunately....
@@LyonsArcade okay thanks joe..i thought maybe it was a gas leak..
Are those Amphenol or Babcock displays
this is for the star trek pinball right?
Yes Amy, these went in our Star Trek, but they also fit pretty much all of the early Bally games, so anything from 77 to 82 or so. After that, they used the same thing but they had 7 digits (so fixing them is the same). Eventually they invented the 'alpha numeric' glasses that made these obsolete.
I have one thats going crazy. Its adding sporadic points even when it's not that player's turn. I had it on player 2 and whenever player 1 played, it added points to player 2. I moved it to player 4 and now its doing it there. The first digit (ones) flashes random numbers. I reflowed all the solder, but no joy. Do you think it's the decoder chip or something easier to change?
It's pretty much got to be the decoder chip... since it followed wherever you moved it to, you know it's on that actual pcb and not the wiring harness of the game's MPU.... there are a few transistors involved for each digit (and each segment) but they'll just make your digit disappear, if you're getting the wrong number it's almost always the decoder chip....
Hi Joe i Have a rapid fire with a brand new alltek mpu but the credit display has a line of 8s, when i go into display test the left displays go to 0 to 9 but credit remains the same is this a mpu problem or display problem thx
It’s more than likely a bad connector pin on the plug that plugs into the mpu... the Alltek is very durable very little chance it has any problems at all. Unplug both the displays and swap em see if the display changes in a different position.
@@LyonsArcade i moved player one to credit and credit to player one, credit work player 1 all eights and player 2 malfunctioning fadeing
it has 2 x7 segement display on the left and the credit has 6 segement on the right
Or if you have one of the players score displays has a burned in first or 4th digit.... use it as the credit/ball in play display since they usually never use those digits :) Unless your machine has one of those fancy segmented displays that can do text :P
That's definitely a way to hide a smoked one :)
Always enjoy your videos.. maybe I missed it but on my bally's evil knievel.. the player 4 display is showing no digits at all. I swapped them around and when plug in a good display into 4 it works.. so if a display is showing no digits any ideas to try? Thx
first thing to do is reflow the solder on the edge connector, it may be the voltage isn't making it onto the board... but usually when a single display doesn't show anything it's because the glass has went bad on it.
I had so many resistors about to burn up, already burnt ones, and a broken transistor! You didn't say that if the digits were flickering it is the chip and the part where you explain the resistors ohms was weird. Can't you just read the resistors like 1st color = 10s place, 2nd color = 1s place, 3rd color = multiplier, 4th color = tolerance? Anyways good video for beginners.
I think when you do your video you should definitely do it that way!
@@LyonsArcade your video is great.
oh hey a star trek bally
Hey Ron, wasn't sure how to msg aside from commenting on a video. So i'm working on the trident displays, reflowing the pins and two of the displays had 1.4K resistors soldered underneath the Q7-12 one of them broke off and before i go through the trouble of replacing it I was wondering if this was some sort of mod? the 100K and 300K resistors all test ok. Only two of the displays had this done, they both happen to be Beckman displays.
Im not sure why those are on there but I’ve seen them on dozens of displays…. I’ll bet it has to do with the Beckmann glass like you mentioned… I always leave them figuring somebody did it for a reason. You can always email on our website too at LyonsArcade.com
My machine has a weird problem where only 3 displays work and I switched them all around so it’s not a problem with the machine. The displays that don’t work have no sign of life once so ever. Not a shimmer or a glow at all.
It might be bad solder on the pins the connector sends power through on the edge but usually if they won't do anything it's the glass is bad which can't be easily repaired.
Joe's Classic Video Games, Thank you! After inspecting the displays again two had cracks in the glass right next to the board!
thanks, always better to repair than replace them with modern leds, they dont look as nice as these
Yeah I like the glowwwwww