Good video, I like how you put it together with limited tools, I have limited tools, I bought a small toaster oven for 20 bucks to heat my ring gear and bearings.
Sand the protective coating off where the pinion bearings go. That way that pinion bearing can be taped off to change the shims easily. Also sand the surface on the ring gear to have a more flatter surface. Yes locktight on the pinion nut and ring gear bolts.
I watched another video where the guy sanded the inside of the old bearing to use as testers bearings while figuring out the correct shim set up. I'm trying that method now but looking for the tolerance on the carrier itself, i have roughly a 1/16 of play side to side which affects the backlash.
thanks for the video, i had heard people use the old shim as a baseline and they sand down the i.d of old bearing slightly for removal for setup. that sucks after all the work you put in it was the wrong carrier.
@@tbccarbuilds2344 what gear set are you working on that is using standard threads as in Righty Tighty …… Lefty Loosey? Because mine is opposite Lefty Tighty. Righty Loosey
@Slushers1 Richmond. I've done quite a few diffs over the years and I don't recall but a select few that were left handed thread. I mostly did Dana 40, 8.5" corporate, 10 bolt and 12 bolt gms and a few for 9 inch.
Only thing that can improve this video is a Jersey girl in the background yelling "WTF did I tell you about fixing your car in the kitchen"! Good vid, thanks!
Yukon says to install without the crush sleeve at first while getting the shims dialed in but you reused the sleeve. Logically it makes sense that you can reuse the crush sleeve as long as you did not over tighten it. Is this what your experience has been?
You can do it that way but I've done it enough to have a pretty good "feel" for it. If it's your first time then yes install without it to get the shims close.
Ok this all well and good how do you know what number to go to? I get how everything is happening but how do you know what the depth is supposed to be?
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Thanks man rebuilding soon learning a lot
Good video, I like how you put it together with limited tools, I have limited tools, I bought a small toaster oven for 20 bucks to heat my ring gear and bearings.
work with what you got!!
make sure your seal is not the truck seal which most kits include.its longer than the car seal which had a short depth.
Sand the protective coating off where the pinion bearings go. That way that pinion bearing can be taped off to change the shims easily. Also sand the surface on the ring gear to have a more flatter surface. Yes locktight on the pinion nut and ring gear bolts.
I watched another video where the guy sanded the inside of the old bearing to use as testers bearings while figuring out the correct shim set up. I'm trying that method now but looking for the tolerance on the carrier itself, i have roughly a 1/16 of play side to side which affects the backlash.
thanks for the video, i had heard people use the old shim as a baseline and they sand down the i.d of old bearing slightly for removal for setup. that sucks after all the work you put in it was the wrong carrier.
It happens unfortunately. Sometimes the parts stores aren't perfect but nobody is.
Aren’t those bolts reverse thread to make tight? Mine are on an 88 gmc 9.5” 14 bolt 33 spline application.
No. Standard thread on this one.
@@tbccarbuilds2344 what gear set are you working on that is using standard threads as in Righty Tighty …… Lefty Loosey? Because mine is opposite Lefty Tighty. Righty Loosey
@Slushers1 Richmond. I've done quite a few diffs over the years and I don't recall but a select few that were left handed thread. I mostly did Dana 40, 8.5" corporate, 10 bolt and 12 bolt gms and a few for 9 inch.
Only thing that can improve this video is a Jersey girl in the background yelling "WTF did I tell you about fixing your car in the kitchen"! Good vid, thanks!
Lmao!!
Hi, would you mind telling me how hot you got your oven and how long you left the ring in? Thanks!
350 for like 20 mins.
Yukon says to install without the crush sleeve at first while getting the shims dialed in but you reused the sleeve. Logically it makes sense that you can reuse the crush sleeve as long as you did not over tighten it. Is this what your experience has been?
You can do it that way but I've done it enough to have a pretty good "feel" for it. If it's your first time then yes install without it to get the shims close.
Ok this all well and good how do you know what number to go to? I get how everything is happening but how do you know what the depth is supposed to be?
it will be marked on the pinion gear