Here’s my rambling about the dead air mask vs the tactical solutions paclite IV tss as well as the hype behind short pistol barrels. Sorry for the low budget production, I hope the content is worthwhile nevertheless.
If you’re new to suppressors or the nfa world in general, you can’t go wrong following the methods given in the manual. The actual answer is cleaning methods are mainly dependent on materials, and finishes used in the construction of the suppressor. For instance stainless steel is not lightweight but can withstand the harshest cleaning methods, while aluminum is very easy to maneuver but is so delicate that it will get pitted and damaged by “dipping” it. So to fully answer your question stand-alone suppressors and integral suppressors don’t necessarily have a different cleaning schedules or cleaning methods, it’s all based on how the suppressor is built and affixed to the firearm.
There are A lot of answers but if it gets to confusing you can always contact the manufacture and get it from the horses mouth. IMHO and over a decade in the NFA game Cleaning regiments are typically done on smaller caliber silencers like .22lr through 45. Bigger caliper cans like 308, 556 rarely need it as they blow everything out when fired. You should always inspect your gear. I find the only pain with integral's is getting the face or end of the actual bore in the tube clean. Anything past 700rounds i find on a 22lr Can weather it be on the TSS, rugged, or dead air they starts to cake up and rattle chunks of carbon around in the silencers, could cause a baffle strike and that's a no no. Be smart and don't follow silly methods like using "DIP" I'm sure you'll look up what that is. Best and easiest method is advise i got from Rugged Suppressor's. Get yourself an ultrasonic cleaner and a gallon of purple power from Wally World and let that clean your cans for you. It'll make them look brand new from factory. Of course you cannot put aluminum into a ultrasonic bath but most cans have steel or titanium and shouldn't give you problems. I stay away from alumnum and monocore silencers but that"s a diffrent subject.
Thanks very much for the video love the silencer content
Thanks for the great video. My tss stamp got approved today so I was glad to see a new vid on the subject.
How is cleaning different between a standalone suppressor and an integral? How many rounds before you need to clean?
If you’re new to suppressors or the nfa world in general, you can’t go wrong following the methods given in the manual. The actual answer is cleaning methods are mainly dependent on materials, and finishes used in the construction of the suppressor. For instance stainless steel is not lightweight but can withstand the harshest cleaning methods, while aluminum is very easy to maneuver but is so delicate that it will get pitted and damaged by “dipping” it. So to fully answer your question stand-alone suppressors and integral suppressors don’t necessarily have a different cleaning schedules or cleaning methods, it’s all based on how the suppressor is built and affixed to the firearm.
There are A lot of answers but if it gets to confusing you can always contact the manufacture and get it from the horses mouth. IMHO and over a decade in the NFA game Cleaning regiments are typically done on smaller caliber silencers like .22lr through 45. Bigger caliper cans like 308, 556 rarely need it as they blow everything out when fired. You should always inspect your gear. I find the only pain with integral's is getting the face or end of the actual bore in the tube clean. Anything past 700rounds i find on a 22lr Can weather it be on the TSS, rugged, or dead air they starts to cake up and rattle chunks of carbon around in the silencers, could cause a baffle strike and that's a no no. Be smart and don't follow silly methods like using "DIP" I'm sure you'll look up what that is. Best and easiest method is advise i got from Rugged Suppressor's. Get yourself an ultrasonic cleaner and a gallon of purple power from Wally World and let that clean your cans for you. It'll make them look brand new from factory. Of course you cannot put aluminum into a ultrasonic bath but most cans have steel or titanium and shouldn't give you problems. I stay away from alumnum and monocore silencers but that"s a diffrent subject.