Tips For Drilling Holes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- Learn the basics of drilling holes and various drill bits. After this, learn about tape measures! • Tape Measure Pro Tips
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I love his ability to teach topics which are rudimentary to him, but without sounding condescending or like a know-it-all. You can tell, he genuinely wants to pass on the best information for the good of the trade. You rock man.
Because he understands that even "simple" tasks are hugely complex when you break them down. Great teacher.
Or you be a total a hole like every boss I’ve ever had. Thanks for not being that guy.
Yes, I like that he doesn't talk down to us and doesn't act like he's all that and a bag of chips too.
At the ripe old age of about 10 my grandpa spent a Saturday ( all day) giving me lessons on this exact same subject. I must have drilled a thousand holes that day.That was more than 50 yrs ago and I still flash back to that day every time I drill a hole into anything. Grandpa is still behind me, waiting for me to do it right. And at the end of that day he gave me a can with dull bits in it, and watched as I learned to hand sharpen drill bits. I wish I had a dime every time someone has asked, "Where did you learn to do that" I'd also give all those dimes to Grandpa if he were still here. Great video...somewhere down the road,someone is going to be thankful they watched this video.
My Great Uncle showed me how to check Timber boards to see if they were quarter cut or Center cut so that I could learn how to select them for there correct position in a woodwork project . . . Chris, Norwich England
That guy is me, assembling all this ancient knowledge while my peers pop xanax and play ps4
miss my grandfather!!
But he used Toggle bolts all the time. I don't think Tapcons were made or in use at the time.
EFD620G im thankful that I watched this video right now because of your comment. Thank you Sir.
@Beaujangles McJiggle never too late, same here, 40's learning all this stuff, soaking it up like a sponge.
It's like being in the shop with dad. Albeit a dad that is articulate and doesn't swear a lot. LOL Thanks for making these!
or throw wrenches when he scraps a knuckle... i miss dodging wrenches.
Wayward Woodworker -haha!
Rick: But, if you can dodge a wrench you can dodge a ball.
Wayward Woodworker Or make you hold his beer and flashlight.lol could never hold the flashlight up to his standard...😂😂😂
"Love is a four letter word too" ~Pop
As a machinist general rules of thumb I use are: anything under a 1/2" center punch then drill. Over 1/2" then center punch, pilot drill then drill with final size. Usually trying to use a pilot drill roughly same diameter as the webbing on the final drill size. Also a trick I use when making sure drill is in right place is to spin drill opposite drilling rotation and see where contact is. It will show a small mark without actually drilling through said material. Then put it on right rotation and drill away.
Great tip. Thank you.
i am going to try opposit rotation,thanks
What is the "webbing" of the final drill size?
Damn, Jeremiah...I thought I have been pretty savvy for a long time, but that is a great tip.
This trick also work for making a cleaner surface perimeter with a hole saw on the exposed side of the work.
I once used the kitchen countertop as a backer by mistake. Wife was happy though- she finally got her granite upgrade! :)
A Chinese proverb translates as, "To teach is to learn twice". As you said, I can't tell you why I am doing what I am doing. You did a fine job, Scott.
教而知新
To teach on the beach is a peach and not out of reach
Great proverb. It seems that, in the East, they celebrate and immortalize the insights of their sages. In the West, we take offense and demonize them. See also Socrates and everyone like him since.
I personally like the Bible Proverbs
Years ago, I learned a tip for using hole saws (that I have since applied to spade bits as well.) If it is possible, and if it matters, cut your hole about halfway through, then switch to the other side. The pilot bit will have already come through and you just use that hole to finish the cut. This leaves the rough area that happens when the saw cuts through inside the hole, not on one side or the other.
This feels like common sense to me. Crazy how a different background can completely change what seems should be “common” from one person to the next.
Lol, too bad this wouldn't work 1 inch door holes
As a recently-retired guy, I’m having a great time watching all of your lessons and trying to apply them to my new hobbies -home and barn repair. Thanks for sharing your expertise. I had a long career in education and appreciate a lesson well delivered. I’m also a photographer and want to comment that the light in your shop for this video is beautiful. It looks as if you hired a high-priced lighting director and crew from the big city - but I’d be willing to bet it’s just early morning or late afternoon available light. In any case, it enhances the great content you’re providing. Keep up the great work, Scott.
If you need to go crosswise through round metal stock, take a mill file and make a small flat spot, then center punch in that. The bit will be much less likely to walk.
I think one of the reasons I enjoy your channel so much is because you remind me of my own dad. we spent many a day in the garage building things, by the time I was 11 I was using a table saw and a drill press. I was excited that I bought my first Black and Decker 1/4 drill with my own money. it stayed in my tool box for many years until I replace it with a 3/8 and then adding a 1/2 drill. He has passed on now and you are actually 5 years younger than me but still I appreciate you demeanor and you appreciation of good tools.my Dad was very much like that. There is nothing quite like building something with your own two hands. Thanks again.
having been framing for 12 years now , the way he speaks sounds like poetry to me ..
I agree.
His linguistic formulation skills is on a whole different league.
Well spoken and cultured gentlemen.
Interesting, as a lay person in all things construction, I never realized the number of intricacies in drilling. I've always used my cheap chinamart drill at top speed, top pressure with no variation. This will have a huge impact on every project I do for ever to come. Thanks!
You know when the drill bit has lost it’s temper when it starts swearing and throwing things around the room!
Olmost abouth everything when it loosses its temper, u put it whit the head in some water to cool down;)
especial drill bits hahaaa.
The rudimentary of drilling wood i picked upp some knowledge here thanks mr craftsman,good videos
"Let me put this away so I don't lose it"
THIS IS GENIUS
Absolute genius. We tend to forget, that when we lose things or abuse things so they break - that it's money out of our wages that goes towards their replacements.
EC is one of the few channels I drop what I'm doing for. Great moves, Scott! Keep it up! Proud of you!
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I lost my dad in 2015. He knew everything about tools. Good to know there are still knowledgable souls out there .
good info about backing off as the bit exits the steel. I hadn't thought of the mechanics of what's happening where the bit intersects the metal. The tendency is to push harder and drill faster, so it's good to hear the reasoning behind slowing down and easing up.
This is clearly a guy who loves his craft and has spent hours upon hours working at it. No book could ever replicate his expertise. Awesome.
I've seen some excellent masonry books that consolidate decades of experience... with no parallel in video. At least not yet. So, with metal- and wood-working, let's get a few people like EC and have them write a book together. Writing is time intensive mental work (hard in the sense that your brain gets tired and feels like it takes an eternity), as is video editing. Books are just a way of conveying information; many people's dislike of books comes with *how* they are written. The economics of publishing dead wood doesn't create the same personal connection though! Still, with enough pictures, a book can be as good as or better than videos when it comes to content. It really depends on the writing and editing.
thanks for the video, great tips. Here's a tip: to keep a bit from drifting, start it in reverse a couple of turns and then forward.
I have been drilling wood and metal for many years. Some of what you were saying is new to me. It means a lot when you are trying to figure out what’s going on with your work to understand more aspects of it so you can get better results. Thank you for coming to the rescue. This is why I watch your channel. Thanks for the information and the patience with which you do it.
learned to drill holes 1975 7th grade brooklyn high school brooklyn ohio industrial arts class Mr jack howell chambers he was the best not only a master woodworker but a master in life lessons he passed away this year and the undertaker was schocked at the amoumt of his ex students showed up taught me everything about wood tools welding house building maintenance etc rip mr chambers i use something every day you taught me
Thank you for spending time going deep on the basics that people either take for granted, or can't learn about because everyone in the know takes them for granted!
"No substitute for doing this and no substitute for thinking about it while you're doing it." If only that didn't need to be said. Good stuff. Thanks again for the great videos.
Scott, I feel like I learn at least 2-3 new or different things every time I watch one of your videos. Thanks for taking the time to put out well thought out content.
Drills are my favorite tools. I have probably 9 or 10 drills. Cordless, corded, drill presses, 12v, 20v max, 18v. I LOVE drills.
Battery operated tools
They are referencing the battery power of cordless drills. Go to home depot's website and have a look.
I’m sure glad a real craftsmen finally put a TH-cam channel up. I just recently found your channel but I appreciate it. In today’s world a lot of young people don’t think much about guys like us. And you’re are a lot more articulate than most of us so good on you. I’m right over in Boise so I just may have to take a weekend at the end of that house to take a look around. Best of luck!!
Some good beginner lessons here. I remember when I first started in a machine shop. After a few weeks of sweeping floors, they put me with a journeyman machinist who showed me how to use a drill press. He then set up a fixture on the drill press and gave me a basket of 500 parts to drill. After a few hours of drilling, he came to me and showed me how to tell when my bit was getting dull. We then went to the bench grinder and he showed me how to sharpen a drill bit, then let me sharpen the one that I was using until he was satisfied with it's appearance. I quickly learned that a few extra minutes sharpening created a much better cutting drill that was easier to work with. Thinning the web on a large drill made a much easier point with less cutting force, but was harder to master than sharpening.
I learned that 50 surface feet per minute is generally a safe cutting speed for mild steels, 300 series stainless steels and grey cast irons. Some quick mental math tells us that 12 times the cutting speed in sfm (surface feet per minute) divided by the drill diameter times Pi would give a fairly safe place to start. On a 1/4" drill bit that equates to 12 x 50 sfm (600) divided by 3.14 x 1/4 (0.785). Thus 600/0.785=764 rpm. Full speed on a drill motor of 750 rpm, and half speed on a 1500 rpm drill motor. I shortened the above formula and used the constant of 600 divided by the drill diameter time Pi which is fairly easy to do in one's head without using a calculator.
I also learned early on to avoid stringers . . . those long spirals of steel coming from the drill bit. They quickly wrap the bit and spin at the same speed causing cuts to hands holding the workpiece . The remedy is to momentarily stop feeding, back up slightly, the begin feeding again. When done properly, it will cause the stringer to break and fly away. Especially on a drill press, when properly practiced, this "woodpecking" technique results in a much safer operation.
Drilling ferrous metals takes a bit of practice and patience, but once mastered produces good results for anyone.
Who gives a shit
Very informative thanks for you time sir.
Good information. You have 3 constants 12 x 50 / pi, why not lump it all together to get 191. Round 191 of to 200 then divide by the dia of the drill bit. 200 / (1/4) gives 800 rpm, close enough to 764?
Im a GC, my son is 6 and loves listening to your videos in the morning on the way to school. We both head out for work together, and he fills his brain with construction knowledge daily
I just wanted to saw a quick thank you for your awesome videos as they actually help people to improve their skills and techniques
Thanks for the videos, I've been in the trades for twenty-eight years. Your approach to the teaching aspect of carpentry gives me some hope for the future. I learned something new about hole saws about two weeks ago that you may want to pass along. The same two hole saws I use for door locks work perfectly for plumbing pipes around sinks. The one inch for the supply lines and two and one eighth for the drain, just mark the center points, drill and install. Works great with drywall, paneling and cabinets, I drill from both sides if possible to prevent splinters.
Thank you Scott. Cover how to use a concrete bit properly i see to many pushing harder than they need to and not letting the hammer work properly on the drill. Just like pushing to hard on a jack hammer let the hammer do the work.
You mean like when you push so hard that the hammer does not get to hammer a full stroke? I think I know exactly what you mean. Need to ease off the pressure and let the hammer do full strokes and do the work for you.
@@MrSuperheterodyne yeah this exactly. Melted a few rotor hammer bits learning this 😂
Thank you so much for this great information! I'm in my 20s with a lot of work left to do, but growing up I didn't have the greatest mentors to show me how to do all of this. While better late than never, I will for sure pass this knowledge down to my children some day.
I was wodering if you would be willing to do a small video on center punches and the different types I love your show and keep doing what your doin
This channel is pure gold.
The most important statement about bits is at 9:54-9:56. LOL
This is so true. I feel like he should have reiterated that point a few times. Nothing is more frustrating then an incomplete drill index.
What, about putting them away before losing them? ...yep. lost my 3/16 drill bit yesterday ;p must be in the 12th dimension.
"where did I pu....."
Where did I put... 😂😂😂
hahahah! yeah had to learn the hard way a couple times myself about that important lesson
I really hope you realize how invaluable your videos are to many people. Just watching a few (although I think I've watched them all) of your videos has literally years worth of tips, tricks, and advice in them. Stuff that would normally take decades of working in the trades to learn. You know there's certain things you just can't google. I really hope more people see your videos. Great content from someone with so much knowledge doesn't just show up every day!
Anyone who enjoyed this should watch the history of power tools that the Discovery Channel did. Mr. Irwin owned a pharmacy that sold liquor and the man who invented The modern-day auger bit sold him the patent for his liquor bill. The rest is history.
One of the reasons I watch this is to teach me how to train apprentices better. In that vain, a spade bit will blow a nasty hole on the exit. So just drill deep enough where the tip comes out the back side of the board, turn board over and come in from the other side. Thanks so much and keep up the good work!
You can patch a hole in wood too. Use a dowel rod that's the same diameter (drill a bigger hole if needed), glue, and a pull saw to cut the rod flush. If it's going to be visible in furniture or something you'll need to match the color and material of the dowel to the work and be mindful of grain direction (for cosmetics).
Thanks so much!
I had asked in another video comment section JUST THIS MORNING that you make a video on this (because I didn’t see in on your channel page). Next thing I know, TH-cam puts this in my feed!
Watching you is like taking courses at a trade school. 👍🏻
Don’t forget the marvellous adjustable bit, nothing else will drill holes from 3/4” to 3” in wood, so well !
Have drilled thousands of holes in many materials and have felt what you described using words. The words articulated the feelings and sensations and things to consider extremely well.
Who "shot up" your workshop?
Also, thank you for bringing us these little pieces of you. In my youth I used to work summers building houses with my godfather. Each video, for me, is a trip down memory lane.
That bit at the end where you talk about thinking about your work is brilliant, as I age I am learning more and more that you literally are your thoughts at any given moment. The stream of endless thoughts in your head is you.
I've found that people not paying attention to what is behind what they're drilling to be the biggest source of injury...
Pro tip: your hand or thigh makes a terrible backing material to prevent blowing out the exit... And it will hurt the whole time too.
I may, or may not have a scar on my left hand to prove your point.
Chris Jewell I've yet to get myself, but I've started drilling many holes over the years with my hand in an exceptionally stupid position.
Haven't started drilling a board sitting in my lap with the bit aimed at my bits, so I still consider myself well ahead of some of my friends.
RealLuckless , PLEASE tell me that you DON'T know someone who did this... 😨🤕😁
Okay, I won't tell you just how dumb some of my friends have managed to be...
On the bright side, they've often served as great life lessons.
It only hurts win u brake on through the other side
My favourite TH-cam channel by far
I have learnt so so much from you mate
I'm building my first spec home in Melbourne
And you are a go to guy far information that is direct and spot on the money
Much appreciated my friend
Much respect from Australia
You have no idea how relieved I am to hear that you, of all people, have trouble sharpening twist drills. This information shows me the sharpening is difficult, not necessarily that I’m a knucklehead. I’ve ruined so many trying to learn.
There is a lot you have to consider when sharpening drills. Parallel cutting edges , margin width, relief angle, web thickness, lip angle at 59 deg on both sides and equal lip lengths. This Old Tony has a great channel and a very informative video on sharpening drills. th-cam.com/video/r8oORR6jyh8/w-d-xo.html
you can never ruin a drill bit trying to sharpen it, drill bits are long enough to grind them off and try again, unless you try and fail hundreds of times on a single one hehe
Phroden Dekia a lot of the practice would go like this: get it wrong, over correct, over correct the correction, realize it can’t be corrected, grind it flat for a fresh start, repeat
There are a number of TH-cam videos that explain and show how to sharpen a general purpose twist bit by hand using a grinding wheel. Also, there are a number of gadgets that will hold the bit in the right position to help you at the grinding wheel; General Tool makes one. Finally there are purpose built machines that are priced for the home shop that are pretty easy to use; especially after a couple of practice bits. Drill Doctor is one I have and can recommend.
Phroden Dekia You can't kill a dead horse. If the bit won't cut you don't have anything to lose by watching This Old Tony's video and giving it a try. I've found that a 4.5" angle grinder with a cutting wheel (instead of a grinding wheel) clamped to a bench is the easiest way for me to sharpen it. Much smaller surface removing material makes it easy for beginners. Try on a 1/2 or bigger 1st.
Thank you! I noticed you used a corded drill. I still have my old 20-year old corded Milwaukee drill. There is something about the sound from it that a cordless can't match. Also, the power is nice to have when drilling into steel. I am so happy one of your videos came across my feed. I shared your channel with my 14 year old son in hopes he can see the enjoyment the trades can be.
You forgot step bits.
A good quality step bit is worth every penny
It's be nice to do an addendum for that!
It'd (sorry)
Project Farm just did an episode comparing different step bits. I won't link to it because I don't want to get flagged for spamming, but you can easily find it by searching for Project Farm Step Drills
Great video. I’ve been using tools for about 60 years and am still learning. Thank-you.
Hey, EC,
How about doing one on hand-powered drills, like braces, eggbeaters, whimbles, and hand-cranked drill presses?
Don't forget the yankee screwdriver.
As a builder apprentice and dentist I can’t be agree more with you what are you saying about using ours senses to work on any material, tool, bones, dentin, enamel, wood, steel all of them give you a sign.
Great teacher cheers
16:53 - Thats how I drilled through my thumb muscle. Now I stand on the part on the floor.
This channel has all the information that a dad should teach his kids about working and tools!
Thanks internet dad!
One thing I would add on safety: be careful of having your hand too close to a spinning drill bit, especially if you are wearing a glove. A drill with a half inch chuck will put a hurtin on your fingers if the bit gets tangled in your glove.
Right. Not to mention the infamous forearm breaker high torque right angle drills.
Also, to a much lesser degree, when removing a screw, you can pinch/compress your hand into a surface.
Im not even planning on drilling metal but I stayed fot the whole video. This guy KNOWS his craft
@17:05 Did someone pattern a shotgun on the upper back wall of your shop? Is that dappled mood lighting? :)
Thank you. Excellent content as expected.
"Drill Motor" is a term from the 50's & 60's for electric motor drills, to differentiate it from a "hand drill" ("eggbeater" - flat gear at a right-angle to the driving shaft and a knob to turn the flat gear typically used for ferrous or non-ferrous metal), and from a "brace" (U-shaped drive handle for wood working). Later on they were called a "power drill, and later yet a "cordless drill".
As far as a 1/4" vs. a 1/2" power drill, that the maximum diameter drill shank the chuck will hold. The maximum speed typically differs between the two chuck sizes along with the torque or horsepower rating. 1/4" typically is 1050rpm and 1/2" 550rpm for single speed power drills, and 0-1050 rpm / 0-550prm for variable speed power drills which became more common in the 1970's. And cordless drills started appearing in the early 1980's; 1/4" chuck versions were max 400 rpm; the limits of DC motors vs. expected battery life before a recharge was needed in those days. The cordless drill 1/2" chuck versions really didn't appear at consumer prices until the 1990's as I recall when better rechargeable batteries and stronger DC motors came about.
The reason for the differences in motor speed is that drill bits need decreasing (slower) rotational speeds as the size of the drill bit increases to keep the drill bit within the speed limits to work properly and to keep from overheating the outer lip edge. Not as important now-a-days with with cheap variable speed power drill motors vs. the early days when all power drills were single speed.
Thank you for offering your two “bits” in this “boring” subject.
that was really "edge"y
thanks for the "chuck"le
"He who would pun....would pick a pocket"
You have a "twisted" sense of humor...
alright guys, now yall see yourself out
You've really just completely changed my approach to drilling into flat bar and for the better. I often had my drill bit bind up in the last mm or so and got to where I could feel it was coming up and stop before that happened. I wasn't really sure what to do next because I didn't actually understand what was happening to cause the problem. Thanks so much for your channel and patient explanations. You're a great help to those of us trying to reuse, repair and (hopefully) make something of good quality.
Did someone shoot out the top of you shop?
The instruction on backing-off on the pressure and increasing speed at the very end of drilling through metal / steel and why this is the point where drill bits often break, made it worth the time spent watching the whole video, all by itself. I had experienced this problem many times and never thought through what was happening or that it could be avoided.
Another great instructional video that took me to a new level of understanding and competence with a core skill that is critical and foundational to most home projects. Thanks once again!
Starting out in the machine shops in and around Houston, TX as a young cub, if you called a drill a "Drill Bit" you got told right away that's a drill and a bit goes in a horse's mouth. They would say... "there are drills and drill motors. Get it right cubby!". haha :) Now go get me a bucket of steam... and use the sky hook!
It was worth while for me. I learn something on almost all of your videos. Thanks so much!
7:22 I love when you're drilling on a ladder holding the drilled next to your head and it spins around and slaps you in the face.
Re sharpening twist drill bits, I have used the Drill Doctor for years and it quickly pays for itself. They are available on Amazon and the 350X will do up to 1/2 inch bits and the 750X will do up to 3/4 inch. Several videos on this machine, well worth the money.
Learned decades ago to sharpen twist drills freehand.
Can I suggest more light for your videos? It will make your camera adopt a deeper depth of focus. Not that there's a problem with the shallow depth of field, but that requires manual focus in my opinion.
You guys are producing great content, I don't want to undervalue what you're doing
Agreed. Love the content, just having a hard time watching it
Depth of field not focus
It’s the second video I’ve seen of yours. The way you explain things is fantastic for a total newbie, like myself, to doing anything in a workshop. You speak in an informative and cohesive manner which ensues a level of understanding and confidence in your viewer that very few other channels do. Thank you.
Did you play Ralphie on the Christmas story?
Good advice on drilling the finished pieces.
Love the channel and content...but didn't touch on drilling into masonry, concrete, etc.
Joe L. He's done a video on exactly this. Try the title "fastening to concrete".
I accidentally discovered a method for using a spade bit to make a fairly decent hole in a pinch. I needed a 5/8's hole and only had a spade in that size. I first drilled out the jhole with the biggest regular bit I had. Then, I put the spade through the work piece, and pulled the bit backwards through the hole. Came out pretty clean. I was quite proud. Love these videos.
Never place your hand next to a hole saw as you drill. I did that once with a 2 1/2" hole saw going through a propane tank. It hung up, jumped out, and tagged my hand.
Let me tell you, hole saws are not in the business of leaving material, nor are they in the business of giving material back.
Luckily I didnt get hurt too bad. Just a scar on my hand, and a stupid story to tell about the day I was complacent.
Yidris if I told the story of every scar on my hands alone it would take hours. Each one a learning experience lol
jake rogers I know the feeling. I have forgotten the stories of a vast swath of them. They just live on my hands, mocking me
Ahh.....Complacency. All my scar tissue, healed breaks, and general stupidity was due to becoming complacent. Sadly, we all become complacent at some point to some degree for sure.
Complacency. I cant think of any job where that wont come back to bite you somehow when you least expect it and should.
For me, working while tired is when all of the worst scars arrive. After seeing my dad's multiple surgeries for repairing a finger cut in half lengthwise with a table saw, I've rarely been complacent about safety (especially after nearly 30 years of teaching middle school science).
What a great video! You have completely redefined what I understand about drilling. "Try to visualize what is happening at the point of contact with the drill bit and the steel." So many great lessons in less than 18 minutes. Thanks again!
drill holes put stuff in'em.
Thanks for the info. It brought back memories of shipyard employment (been retired 15yrs). I drilled hundreds (maybe a thousand) of holes in HY-80 steel for hull flange connection repair, also for machinery hold-down bolt holes on nuclear subs.
Listen to conference call < watch new video about drilling
Amen. I may or may not be guilty of this.
unprofessional. ur fired
Hard at work or hardly working
oShane Kasper that’s the glass half full kinda attitude!
That conference call probably should have just been an email / memo anyway, most are.
Definitely worthwhile. These seventeen minutes have saved me tons of time,
money and probably injury. Great work.
Please continue to make these videos.
17:17 what’s with the ventilation there?
Old barn+ pigeons+12 ga. shotgun= nice pattern on back wall.
About a year or so ago, he confirmed it was indeed a shotgun...
however, the vermin were rats, not pigeons
HA :-)
that pattern caught my eye also, looks like twice barrel shootgun bb or #2 shot. justin wilson saying
You have one if the best channels. You are a very knowledgeable and patient man. I'd love to get to spend time with you and learn from you first hand. Thank you for your time and sharing the information that you do.
I"ve never heard anyone use the term "drill motor" before to refer to a drill. Maybe it's a regional thing. A drill is a device that turns a drill bit. "Motorized Drill" perhaps, "Electric Drill", but to me, the motor is only one component to the assembly I refer to as the "drill". It would be like calling an automobile an "engine". "Dad can I borrow the engine today?", "My engine insurance finally went down", etc. Just pointing out differences, not criticism. However, "Octagonal Tang (8?)" @ 4:52, is hexagonal, 6, unless you've got something weird there.
MattsAwesomeStuff I think drill motor is an old-timer term (no offense to EC- he knows the term but doesn't insist on someone using the "proper" vernacular). It comes from the contrast between a bit and brace and an electric drill motor.
Interesting. Yeah, was just commenting that I hadn't heard it called that before. Obviously Scott isn't making stuff up as he goes, so drills are called drill motors where he is, or, somewhere along the way where he was.
The bit of the train that does the pulling is often called the engine....
Tom Fuller - True, but the part of the car that does the pulling is called the Engine too. A train is compartmentalized. So the engine is on wheels, the fuel car (coal in the old days) is on its own set of wheels, and the cargo cars are all on their own wheels too, and a caboose serves its purpose on its own wheels too. Yet we call the train a "train" as a whole, not an "engine" :p
When I was a kid, my Dad brought home a white, black, and red Milwaukee Electric Tool cardboard box. It said "Drill Motor" on it. I would say that was back in 1977-1978 or so. I'm not sure if that makes me an old timer or not. I do still have that cardboard box sitting in my shop, and the drill motor as well. However, it's all a lot less new looking than when my Dad brought it home all those years ago.
Powerful useful instructions. You are a pro and a great teacher
Hex drive, not octagonal
1972, Coast Guard boot camp. Marlinspike seamanship class. We were given 20 knots , splices, and hitches to learn, ten of which were called "essential". Put 15,000 tons of ship tied to a dock in 50 knots of wind and you can tighten a bowline past the point where there is no practical, non-destructive way to take it apart. We used 9-inch lines in winter on larger ships. Now that can be forced apart with a steel spike and a 3-pound hammer. Oh yeah. We were supposed to be able to put knots together behind our back in the dark. If we had been working tall wooden sailing ships, i would probably remember them all. On board two ships, we had 3-inch diameter steel towing cable. We had classes on splicing that. We also had special vises for it, too. To get the eyes on line through the chocks (the eye went to the dock), we did long splices and tapered them. I liked working with the 5-inch 8-strand plaited ropes (We called them 8-strand-hollow-core-muiltibraid). We got in 3 reels, 1000-foot each. Had to break each reel down to 3 mooring lines, an eye on one end, a back-slice on the other. The manufacturer had sent a manual, heavily illustrated, of two versions of the eye splice. Two of us sat down and compared technique, tried as many variations of the weaves as we could dream up. Took us all day. After that, we could do one a whole lot faster. Old, worn line that had a broken splice? Hated working that. Plypro? You got splinters in your hands, worse than worn nylon or dacron, unless they had been exposed to too much UV rays
Milwaukee isnt the company it once was, the after sales service is terrible, they push new tools over any repairs. Makita gets most of my tool dollars now a days. aAlso, too much advertizing on Milwaukees side its not necessary when you have good tools.
JOSEPH MARQUARDT but depending on the trade you are in, no other company makes your job easier/more productive. that being said, the boss comes by every couple weeks to pick up toasted team red tools, to drop off at the Milwaukee store, and bring back repaired ones.
Mike Zeke milwaukee isn't that great, look in the rental shops. What brands do they ? Why? Because they last longer. All tools work when new.
I buy and use my own tools. I have no boss to take his time to repair the tools i use. I'll take Makita over Milwaukee everytime.
Milwaukee makes the best reciprocating saw blades though. They are beast.
Makita bits are shit. ill admit it. older Milwaukee was the best. sad now.
JOSEPH MARQUARDT yeah, I use mostly Milwaukee and Diablo blades, Lenox are not as available to me atm, and not keeping up with technology
JOSEPH MARQUARDT oh, my boss doesn't repair tools, he just goes past Milwaukee store often, so he drops off broken tools that are under warranty. once they are out of warranty most tools are pretty much trash. half of the time they just send new tools.
Mike Zeke that sounds abot right. I tried milwaukee, they didnt seem to care about my business so I only buy Milwaukee blades and handtool with lifetime gurantee. My measuring tape is Mil. Awesome little bugger, two sided. An apprentice pulled it all the way out, like broken-Out so far. Brought it to the place i bought it. Free exchange no questions asked. They keep all my reciepts on record so they seen i got it there. So thats good about them. Makita has no good handtools. not a one. yet. that i found. not even a knife.. lol
As an engineer I’ve worked with a few skilled toolmakers-and drilling thru metal-often ahead of tapping, was a key learning. Near the end of the video as you are drilling we see two curled chips emerging together, one on each side. Particularly in aluminum, I’ve found this to be indicative of straightness “in the moment”. If one tips the drill motor only one side will produce the curled chip, but by carefully balancing to control two even chips emerging, the hole most typically remains straight (or at least straight to your original orientation.). For me, on an important hole, if I don’t have a jig or magnetic mount rig, I use a partner to look from two directions to confirm my starting position is square. After years it usually is, but better to check if you have someone there. You can usually see one axis yourself, but hard to see two without moving it. Awesome video as usual.
Cys; A wonderful story teller and man or boy from a time that I regret I'll never know. Thanks
What you're saying is to gain the experience, drill a lot of holes in a lot of different materials... The speed bore bits I have worked well for running wire and PEX for my last few remodel projects around the house... The feed and speed of a particular drill bit in any tool, including a drill press or a mill is definitely a learned skill. Keep up the great videos sir!
You give some very good advice here. When drilling into wood using an all-purpose bit, I ALWAYS drill the countersink first. This gives me the "center punch" mark I need and to top it off, the countersink does not have the raggedness one finds when countersinking a pre-drilled hole.
A steel drill bit must NOT produce chips: a sharp bit cuts the waste metal into spirals, or "shavings" as you refer to them. Position 16:54 in your video shows the correct shaving spiral starting and continues through 17:48. The problem here, of course, is that this shaving could hit your free hand and cut you - not that I care about that happening to myself.
I do not apply constant pressure and speed to my work when drilling metals of any kind, but "pulse" the drill motor, by pressing and releasing the trigger constantly.Keeping the drill bit as cool as possible is the key to keeping them sharp for longer periods; the motor does not overwork and the exit hole is much smoother. There is minimal, if any "kickback" when you emerge on the other side if you use this technique.
This is a valuable intro to the art of drilling.
Thanks for taking the time to make these videos. As an amateur DIY guy, I'm learning a helluva lot about what I SHOULD have done in the past, and some fascinating basics about what I NEED to do in future !!
Good tips, and you're right when you say experience is the best teacher.
Thanks for the video.
Scotty i love everything you do mate my father and i are masons, and enjoy the way you speak and the fact that you are a first class tradesman.. i have always admired hard men/well manered men. When i'm tired and hurting from a hard day on my saws, i rewatch your videos... Keep going mate, keep showing the world how good skilled people can be..I wish you and your family the best of everything.. Regards George...
I like to say that it is a pleasure to watch and listen to your video your vocabulary makes me try to be a better person congratulations on every thing you do.
Excellent video, had to drill through steel today for a barn door rail. Milwaukee Cobalt bit saved the day and bored through 8 holes flawlessly. Cobalt seems to be the ticket.
Great pointers. Thanks EC! My father (a mechanical genius) mostly said, "Look at it and figure it out."
Another great video my friend. I've been in the carpenter trade for 23 yrs now I've run the gamut from new construction, historical renovations, classic remolding, heavy construction (form work) nuclear, industrial, cabinetry and specializing in interior and exterior trim and finish work. And for years I've always looked for someone who's knowledge was vast and there advice and tips actually meant something. I guess someone to kinda look up too in a sense. Well I found your channel about a month ago and I do believe that you are that guy! Keep up the good work it's almost as if us true craftsmanship is going extinct.
Wow...love these videos. The sharing of knowlege in minutes that took me years of mistakes to learn. Mostly in metal. If you ever have to drill 1/2" dia. hole in steel buy a Black & Decker bullet bit. It has a 3/16" dia. pilot cut down that pre drills the steel first then opens it up to 1/2". Dewalt makes one now as well. They are amazing and will not grab when exiting the work. I stil have two of them leftover from a job I did Years ago and I cannot seem to kill them. The reduction of pressure needed is so much less you can drill 1/2" holes in mild or cold rolled steel by hand at amazing speed.
I've watched many videos on this channel - seeing a proper instruction on how to drill a hole in steel sold me on every bit of knowledge this man says. He is spot on. I love it. Thank you sir, for your excellent knowledge that you share. Don't get me wrong, I was sold on his knowledge before drilling holes in steel - but I always cringe when I see most people burn up drill bits in steel.
They figure it is so hard they have to run the drill faster just to get it done. They figure wrong then too.
Thank you very much for your patience and clarity. I didn't get much instruction on these subjects as a kid, this gets me going in the right direction.
Great drilling tips. I don’t know how many drill bits I have broken just before exiting the work piece and blamed it on cheap bits. Thank you and great channel.