I'm so glad I came across your channel! I couldn't stop watching this major challenge you are taking! There is a little tip that Mustie1 uses on rust in New Hampshire, try using Bar and Chain oil on the rusty door frames. It will stop the rust from getting worse and it is thick to spread it on. He just pours it on after it is completely dry. He says that it will stays in there for years and rust can't form on oil. Looking so forward to your next video! I just subscribed!
Great tip! I plan to strip this body to a shell and have it chemically dipped and blasted to remove all paint and as much rust as I can. Preventing new rust from forming will be critical. Thanks for watching!
I love endurance riding, as a late starter, it was the way to go! I road the Arizona Challenge, a 325 mile 24 hour challenging and crazy bicycle event. My first try ended at 200 miles at the highest point and mostly downgrades left. I think my first finish was supported by my wife in our car. She tells about a stop light where I couldn't unclip, old style toe clips. I lost my balance and gradually fell over. Wife says I disappeared from view. I did finish my Arizona Challenge in 23 hrs. 45 min. This was the middle of 1980's. Memories are great!
Theres something very soothing and satisfying watching your progress in restoring this classic back to road worthiness. It also makes me appreciate the fine condition of my '66' monza convertible. I really hope you can save this classic vehicle.
Hi, if you look at your drivers side rear panel you eill see cracks in the paint that go all the way to the dividing body line. Those cracks are from bondo underneath.If I am correct, you are going to need a complete rear side panel.
I watched your "Damage assessment: '63 Corvair" last night. As a Corvair hobbyist, I appreciate all the time and effort you have invested in revealing numerous rust patches on your Spyder--and maybe there are more to be found. Knowing how much additional time and effort you will need to weld in numerous patch panels just to get to "square one," I wonder if you may consider purchasing a rust-free southwestern car. Just for fun, I looked up "Corvair" in my local (Tucson, AZ) Craigslist (12/16/2023) and easily located three EM Corvairs that appear to have solid, straight, rust-free bodies--one of them a '63 Spyder convertible (located in Phoenix). If you consider going this route, you can fly into Tucson or Phoenix, rent a vehicle that will accommodate a U-Haul car trailer, and you will have a nice four-day drive back to Indiana. However you choose to proceed, I'm sure you will be successful. Thank you for your excellent Corvair videos!
I've been rebuilding a '63 Spyder convertible that belonged to my father. It was in very bad shape, not much different from yours. Lots and lots of panel replacement on mine. I had it on a rotisserie for a year. It's coming along pretty well. I suggest using recycled GM body parts from a donor car rather than remanufactured steel (new pressings) because the remanufactured parts do not fit very well. You'll need to rework them with a shrinker and a stretcher to achieve a good fit.....trust me on this. Are you in Indiana as I noticed on the license plate?
Given its a convertible the fact it isn't sagging (door gaps seem to be good) is a big plus. You look as if you have a shell thatis well worth saving. Doing it yourself (learning how to cut out and weld in new) will take you a long time. You can always short circuit that if you can find a welder/shop where you can take your stripped down shell for them to weld in new material.
While it's rusty, I've seen a lot worse! I'm in Vermont so this car would be rusted up to the windows! Overall, the frame and structural elements look solid enough to work with from what I see. As you know, Clark's has quite a few replacement panels that you need. I think it lt may be worth saving being a Spyder convertible.
@swalker10859 oof, I forgot some were fiberglass. And I don't blame you. Best bet is to get in touch with a CORSA member that's in an area where there's rust free cars.
Clark’s does have some panels, but only in fiberglass in a lot of the places I need. Being a unibody I’d rather have the structural integrity of steel throughout. They don’t carry steel for the front of the car or for the top and rear portions of the wheel arches. Same for panel at the rear, unfortunately…
The lower panels are steel and the 4 door rear section is the same for 4 door and coupe. Might take a little skill and patience. I've got two coupes that I bought as a package deal. One is from Chicago and far worse. Looked like a Flintstone car. The second is a black plate California car and completely original. I am in the midst of repairing some wire gremlins. I got it running and modernized the brakes. Chasing a vacuum leak that is affecting the transmission also. I've got a bunch of parts for a 63 coupe that I am going to be selling.
So far you don't seem to have many (any) complex curves to repair on the rear quarters or the rear skirt. Tedious and time-consuming to fabricate the patch panels required but all doable. The front skirt is more difficult due to the pressings/flutes.
Agreed. I might have to find a donor panel for the front. I may have located a source for the wheel arches based on a tip from another commenter. I might fabricate patches for the rear end. That seems to be the simplest area.
Despite my lack of experience, I’m going to try to do it right. The structural integrity is more important than the appearance. I’m sure it will take awhile.
The front floors were shot in my '62 Spyder - my dad cut everything out back to the crossmember and re-floored it using .080 aluminum salvaged from a trucking company.
Original Parts Group carries a number of reproduction body panels for the 1963 Corvair. I have no experience with their availability or comparability to OEM.
That’s a great tip- that site never came up in any of my searches for some reason. Looks like between them and Clark’s there are patches for the entirety of both wheel arches. Still haven’t found a steel front panel patch anywhere.
Not knowing parts availablity, I still think it is saviable. You might want to check out Auto Anatomy channel. He just did a lot of body work on his 65 Corvair. I also found that foam you did in his car. So I think that was factory. Guess I am lucky with having a mustang. I can get an entire car in repro parts if needed. Hope you are able to continue to work to save it.
I do follow @autoanatomy. He does great work and is a helpful resource for me. I have a Mustang as well which might be my next project, depending on how this Corvair goes.
@@lostwrenchgarageMaybe take a break from the corvair briefly to work on the mustang. They are much easier. On another note my dad gave me the original owners manual for the 64 Corvair he and my mom bought as their first new car. He totaled it sadly but that is how he and now I ended up with a 67 Mustang. Now I need to get a car to go with the manual....
I think that despite what’s wrong, this’ll turn out as a pretty good car! Also, if you repaint it (which more than likely you will) are you keeping it the same color? I love the red, it really completes the “convertible” aesthetic! I wish you luck on your journey!
I have repaired much, much worse. This car is beyond savable. This is typical 60’s car rust. I’m quite surprised as a novice, how well you are doing. You already figured out Kroil and an air hammer lol. It’s NO different than the way you tackle the mechanical problems. One piece at a time. It’s just your inexperience with metal work that makes it intimidating. The floors are pretty solid. You drove it around and nothing is affecting that. You’re not putting 1,000 ho into the chassis. I live in California, and trust me, this is worth fixing even out here. Look at how nice the doors open and close/gaps. That is the real indicator of a trash convertible. The number one skill I recommend an old car enthusiast learn is welding. You need it. It’s not even an option in my opinion. Practice and get good at it. It will open all doors for you. I now own 4 welders. Stud, spot, TIG, MIG. Once you start, your confidence will grow. 15 years ago I never would have thought I could even weld aluminum and stainless like I do now. Don’t give up on this car! Just deconstruct it one layer at a time
I appreciate your perspective. I have noticed the door fitment is very good and they open and close with no sag. I’ll just keep taking it one step at a time. I’m learning some welding and look forward to applying it eventually. Thanks for watching!
Only cut out what you need, and as I said get replacement parts before you cut it out. It’s not really that hard, it’s breaking thru the mental aspect. Just do one patch at a time.
I have done a lot of these. IS yours fixable,......yes. Depends how far you want to go, and to what degree and extent you want to restore it. Is it feasible, no there are a lot of other good examples around in a lot better condition. It will take a LOT to fix this car, if you want it done right. The lower body, and rails must be replaced, welded, for structural strength.
You may want to consider the fact that your car is a parts car. Keep and restore everything you can remove and look for a new body. I have restored lots of cars, and that would be too much money to fix.
You have to look at the cost. I have restored cars that had an emotional attachment that I spent twice what the car was worth and ended up regretting it. If this is something to learn from, then you do what you wish. Always fine to have something to tinker with.
There are good points on both sides. I’m sure @boboo2u is right from a strictly economics point of view. I have no real sentimental background on this car, but it is not a form of currency for me either. I don’t expect to come out ahead financially on this thing. It’s a learning project, so in a sense the more problems to solve the better. A fair analogy might be people who willfully spend $30k a year on a golf membership and have no regrets. If that’s what they want to do it’s not a waste of money. “It’s the journey, not the destination” (or something like that!). Thanks for watching
I'm so glad I came across your channel! I couldn't stop watching this major challenge you are taking! There is a little tip that Mustie1 uses on rust in New Hampshire, try using Bar and Chain oil on the rusty door frames. It will stop the rust from getting worse and it is thick to spread it on. He just pours it on after it is completely dry. He says that it will stays in there for years and rust can't form on oil. Looking so forward to your next video! I just subscribed!
Great tip! I plan to strip this body to a shell and have it chemically dipped and blasted to remove all paint and as much rust as I can. Preventing new rust from forming will be critical. Thanks for watching!
I use it on my bicycle chains also. It lasts and the chain stays oiled for a very long time.
I love endurance riding, as a late starter, it was the way to go! I road the Arizona Challenge, a 325 mile 24 hour challenging and crazy bicycle event. My first try ended at 200 miles at the highest point and mostly downgrades left. I think my first finish was supported by my wife in our car. She tells about a stop light where I couldn't unclip, old style toe clips. I lost my balance and gradually fell over. Wife says I disappeared from view. I did finish my Arizona Challenge in 23 hrs. 45 min. This was the middle of 1980's. Memories are great!
Theres something very soothing and satisfying watching your progress in restoring this classic back to road worthiness. It also makes me appreciate the fine condition of my '66' monza convertible. I really hope you can save this classic vehicle.
Thank you, I’ll keep at it. Enjoy your ‘66, sounds like a cool car.
Hi, if you look at your drivers side rear panel you eill see cracks in the paint that go all the way to the dividing body line. Those cracks are from bondo underneath.If I am correct, you are going to need a complete rear side panel.
Once you strip away the filler you'll be able to see what is underneath and how much needs replacing.
Very good commitment by you. I will be very interested in seeing all the progress.
Thank you, I’ll keep at it!
I watched your "Damage assessment: '63 Corvair" last night. As a Corvair hobbyist, I appreciate all the time and effort you have invested in revealing numerous rust patches on your Spyder--and maybe there are more to be found. Knowing how much additional time and effort you will need to weld in numerous patch panels just to get to "square one," I wonder if you may consider purchasing a rust-free southwestern car. Just for fun, I looked up "Corvair" in my local (Tucson, AZ) Craigslist (12/16/2023) and easily located three EM Corvairs that appear to have solid, straight, rust-free bodies--one of them a '63 Spyder convertible (located in Phoenix). If you consider going this route, you can fly into Tucson or Phoenix, rent a vehicle that will accommodate a U-Haul car trailer, and you will have a nice four-day drive back to Indiana. However you choose to proceed, I'm sure you will be successful. Thank you for your excellent Corvair videos!
This is sage advice. For reasons unknown even to me, I am still bent on saving this particular car. Maybe I’ll look in AZ for my next project…
@@lostwrenchgarage this car's giving you a lot of content, which might net you a little $ from YT that helps offset the cost of fixing.
I've been rebuilding a '63 Spyder convertible that belonged to my father. It was in very bad shape, not much different from yours. Lots and lots of panel replacement on mine. I had it on a rotisserie for a year. It's coming along pretty well. I suggest using recycled GM body parts from a donor car rather than remanufactured steel (new pressings) because the remanufactured parts do not fit very well. You'll need to rework them with a shrinker and a stretcher to achieve a good fit.....trust me on this. Are you in Indiana as I noticed on the license plate?
Given its a convertible the fact it isn't sagging (door gaps seem to be good) is a big plus.
You look as if you have a shell thatis well worth saving.
Doing it yourself (learning how to cut out and weld in new) will take you a long time. You can always short circuit that if you can find a welder/shop where you can take your stripped down shell for them to weld in new material.
Yes, but I’m hoping to do it myself 🤞🏼Taking some welding instruction now. You’ve got to start somewhere!
While it's rusty, I've seen a lot worse! I'm in Vermont so this car would be rusted up to the windows! Overall, the frame and structural elements look solid enough to work with from what I see. As you know, Clark's has quite a few replacement panels that you need. I think it lt may be worth saving being a Spyder convertible.
@swalker10859 oof, I forgot some were fiberglass. And I don't blame you. Best bet is to get in touch with a CORSA member that's in an area where there's rust free cars.
Clark’s does have some panels, but only in fiberglass in a lot of the places I need. Being a unibody I’d rather have the structural integrity of steel throughout. They don’t carry steel for the front of the car or for the top and rear portions of the wheel arches. Same for panel at the rear, unfortunately…
The lower panels are steel and the 4 door rear section is the same for 4 door and coupe. Might take a little skill and patience. I've got two coupes that I bought as a package deal. One is from Chicago and far worse. Looked like a Flintstone car. The second is a black plate California car and completely original. I am in the midst of repairing some wire gremlins. I got it running and modernized the brakes. Chasing a vacuum leak that is affecting the transmission also. I've got a bunch of parts for a 63 coupe that I am going to be selling.
Does your ‘63 coupe have wheel arches I could use?
Does your ‘63 coupe have wheel arches I could use?
So far you don't seem to have many (any) complex curves to repair on the rear quarters or the rear skirt.
Tedious and time-consuming to fabricate the patch panels required but all doable.
The front skirt is more difficult due to the pressings/flutes.
Agreed. I might have to find a donor panel for the front. I may have located a source for the wheel arches based on a tip from another commenter. I might fabricate patches for the rear end. That seems to be the simplest area.
Yes, you can check out Clark's corvair sheet Metal and accessories
You’re learning right? Keep it up. Still enjoying the “ride”.
Thanks, I’m learning a lot, and enjoying the ride myself!
Do not cut out to much until you buy or fab a replacement panel. It’s not about how bad it is, it’s the learning adventure.
The gutter rails, are the whole support for the body and doors on a convertible. Take you time, replacement panels are available
Despite my lack of experience, I’m going to try to do it right. The structural integrity is more important than the appearance. I’m sure it will take awhile.
The front floors were shot in my '62 Spyder - my dad cut everything out back to the crossmember and re-floored it using .080 aluminum salvaged from a trucking company.
Very resourceful. I'll probably use a combination of manufactured floor pans and some fabrication.
I have a 63 coupe that I have been parting out. I may have some sheet metal you could use. I am in West Central Ohio.
That sounds promising. Could you send me an email? Lostwrenchgarage@gmail.com
Thanks!
WHO NEEDS MOROCO YOU HAVE A CORVAIR
Haha that’s true!!
Original Parts Group carries a number of reproduction body panels for the 1963 Corvair. I have no experience with their availability or comparability to OEM.
That’s a great tip- that site never came up in any of my searches for some reason. Looks like between them and Clark’s there are patches for the entirety of both wheel arches. Still haven’t found a steel front panel patch anywhere.
I am almost done with mine
Nice! Would love to see it 👍🏼
Say champ, you got a diamond In the ruff you got gem go ahead restore it complete I have faith in you '63 corvair spider wow what a car
Not knowing parts availablity, I still think it is saviable. You might want to check out Auto Anatomy channel. He just did a lot of body work on his 65 Corvair. I also found that foam you did in his car. So I think that was factory. Guess I am lucky with having a mustang. I can get an entire car in repro parts if needed. Hope you are able to continue to work to save it.
I do follow @autoanatomy. He does great work and is a helpful resource for me. I have a Mustang as well which might be my next project, depending on how this Corvair goes.
@@lostwrenchgarageMaybe take a break from the corvair briefly to work on the mustang. They are much easier. On another note my dad gave me the original owners manual for the 64 Corvair he and my mom bought as their first new car. He totaled it sadly but that is how he and now I ended up with a 67 Mustang. Now I need to get a car to go with the manual....
Clark’s Corvair has all the pieces you need
I think that despite what’s wrong, this’ll turn out as a pretty good car!
Also, if you repaint it (which more than likely you will) are you keeping it the same color? I love the red, it really completes the “convertible” aesthetic!
I wish you luck on your journey!
Yes, my current plan is to go with an all original color scheme. If I ever get there I think it’ll look great on this car. Thanks for watching!
Would be much money and aggravation ahead to get a rust free body. The rust is also deep inside and will come back through later.
I have repaired much, much worse. This car is beyond savable. This is typical 60’s car rust. I’m quite surprised as a novice, how well you are doing. You already figured out Kroil and an air hammer lol. It’s NO different than the way you tackle the mechanical problems. One piece at a time. It’s just your inexperience with metal work that makes it intimidating. The floors are pretty solid. You drove it around and nothing is affecting that. You’re not putting 1,000 ho into the chassis. I live in California, and trust me, this is worth fixing even out here. Look at how nice the doors open and close/gaps. That is the real indicator of a trash convertible. The number one skill I recommend an old car enthusiast learn is welding. You need it. It’s not even an option in my opinion. Practice and get good at it. It will open all doors for you. I now own 4 welders. Stud, spot, TIG, MIG. Once you start, your confidence will grow. 15 years ago I never would have thought I could even weld aluminum and stainless like I do now. Don’t give up on this car! Just deconstruct it one layer at a time
I appreciate your perspective. I have noticed the door fitment is very good and they open and close with no sag. I’ll just keep taking it one step at a time. I’m learning some welding and look forward to applying it eventually. Thanks for watching!
I thought Clark's corvair parts had body panels
Many are fiberglass, including the front end and the rear of the wheel arch
Spyder verts are rare, good luck
Thank you!
If you still need that lower front panel, I have an extra one sitting in my garage. Let me know.
I might... I have a repro piece now, but I'm not sure how well made it is. Where are you located? Feel free to email me at lostwrenchgarage@gmail.com
Never tear an engine apart until you have a rebuild kit and all parts you need to put it back together FIRST!
Buyer's remorse?
Nah I’m having fun
1:41 it definitely can be fixed.
Only cut out what you need, and as I said get replacement parts before you cut it out. It’s not really that hard, it’s breaking thru the mental aspect. Just do one patch at a time.
You don’t have to put the Crome back on, build it however you want.
Maybe you could find a friend who could help you weld in body patches.I have seen a lot worse than that repaired.Its a great project car.
I do have a friend with a welder and some experience, but my goal is to use this car to learn some welding myself.
I have done a lot of these. IS yours fixable,......yes. Depends how far you want to go, and to what degree and extent you want to restore it. Is it feasible, no there are a lot of other good examples around in a lot better condition. It will take a LOT to fix this car, if you want it done right. The lower body, and rails must be replaced, welded, for structural strength.
It's salvageable just depends on how much you know and want to do lol
Also watch Halfass customs.
It can be fixed .
I think so too. One step at a time.
The problem stems from Indiana plates. Next time try Arizona plates.
It's definitely time to give up and move on to something else.
Haha I’m not giving up yet
someone's done some probably-amateur bondo patching in the past.
Sir: You need a strong magnet to detect cancer in your Corvair body as well !! Just Saying Okay?
You may want to consider the fact that your car is a parts car. Keep and restore everything you can remove and look for a new body. I have restored lots of cars, and that would be too much money to fix.
It's really just a matter of whether you would consider it a rewarding challenge or pure drudgery to repair it. Pretty crusty but it could be done.
You have to look at the cost. I have restored cars that had an emotional attachment that I spent twice what the car was worth and ended up regretting it. If this is something to learn from, then you do what you wish. Always fine to have something to tinker with.
There are good points on both sides. I’m sure @boboo2u is right from a strictly economics point of view. I have no real sentimental background on this car, but it is not a form of currency for me either. I don’t expect to come out ahead financially on this thing. It’s a learning project, so in a sense the more problems to solve the better. A fair analogy might be people who willfully spend $30k a year on a golf membership and have no regrets. If that’s what they want to do it’s not a waste of money. “It’s the journey, not the destination” (or something like that!). Thanks for watching
I saved my 76 trans am SE it was bad. But I did it, check it out!
Watch Fitzee,s fabrication. It’s easier than you think.
It's not that bad you can do it but