FWIW, the '60 and (early) '61 fans DO move more air than late fans, but you are quite correct, the '64 and later fans were redesigned and lightened to reduce the "fan belt toss" affecting the earlier versions (the late '61 thru '63 fans were still made of steel and quite heavy). The '64 thru '69 fans were made of magnesium and weighed about 14 oz., versus several pounds for the steel. Another note: I would DEFINITELY wear a mask when using a leaf blower, especially in the Southwest- Hantavirus is still a thing. One more thing- if you want to remove the lower baffles from the cylinders, you will have to remove the valve covers, ALL the rocker arms, and the rocker arm studs from the lower head studs to get the pushrod tubes off- a big job. I would certainly try powerwashing everything first. Also, I take note of the extra pulley and oil filter adapter- someone intended to use this motor with air conditioning.
I had very little problem with belts on my '61 when I found the right belt. The factory belt design did not work well on it. By the way, that style of fan is the best for cooling. It moves the most amount of air. Get a belt with what looks like "teeth" on the inside and the width is not as wide as the groove. Tighten appropriately and it will work.
Corvairs ended production in 1969. To determine what motor you have, check the serial number on the crankcase- it is near the oil filler and stamped on the block. The letters on the serial number will tell you year, horsepower, whether manual or automatic. The codes are available online.
No I always refer that type of work to a machine shop. But unless the head is super rare like a turbo or a 140 it's usually cheaper to just find another head.
Hi Mark. I just finished restoring a 1965 Corsa, formally a turbo car. Previous owner removed the turbo and installed 140 heads and a spider intake with a. Holley 390 cfm carb which runs absolutely horrible. I just acquired 4 original rebuilt single barrel carb and I’m looking for some detailed photos of carbs on a complete engine for reference or any info on books that will guide me in the right direction. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Bernie
FWIW, the '60 and (early) '61 fans DO move more air than late fans, but you are quite correct, the '64 and later fans were redesigned and lightened to reduce the "fan belt toss" affecting the earlier versions (the late '61 thru '63 fans were still made of steel and quite heavy). The '64 thru '69 fans were made of magnesium and weighed about 14 oz., versus several pounds for the steel. Another note: I would DEFINITELY wear a mask when using a leaf blower, especially in the Southwest- Hantavirus is still a thing. One more thing- if you want to remove the lower baffles from the cylinders, you will have to remove the valve covers, ALL the rocker arms, and the rocker arm studs from the lower head studs to get the pushrod tubes off- a big job. I would certainly try powerwashing everything first. Also, I take note of the extra pulley and oil filter adapter- someone intended to use this motor with air conditioning.
WOW! I was not expecting that.
Ha! I've never seen a generator adapter put on a 1968 Corvair!
I had very little problem with belts on my '61 when I found the right belt. The factory belt design did not work well on it. By the way, that style of fan is the best for cooling. It moves the most amount of air. Get a belt with what looks like "teeth" on the inside and the width is not as wide as the groove. Tighten appropriately and it will work.
I think I got a 71 Corvair motor. So-Yhun gave me a dune buggy that hasn’t ran. And has been stuck in a shed since 1978.
Corvairs ended production in 1969. To determine what motor you have, check the serial number on the crankcase- it is near the oil filler and stamped on the block. The letters on the serial number will tell you year, horsepower, whether manual or automatic. The codes are available online.
I disagree, that cooling fan is from an early 60s car.
Hi Mark,I live in New Mexico I've heard about your work. And was wondering something. Do you work with heads that have dropped valve seats?
No I always refer that type of work to a machine shop. But unless the head is super rare like a turbo or a 140 it's usually cheaper to just find another head.
Hi Mark. I just finished restoring a 1965 Corsa, formally a turbo car. Previous owner removed the turbo and installed 140 heads and a spider intake with a. Holley 390 cfm carb which runs absolutely horrible. I just acquired 4 original rebuilt single barrel carb and I’m looking for some detailed photos of carbs on a complete engine for reference or any info on books that will guide me in the right direction. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Bernie
email me at azmcparts@gmail.com
6 mins into the video, he still hasn’t done anything.
Looks like a Continental engine ???
Yup, a flat six, like Lycoming, Continental, Porsche and some Subarus.
Put it on an airplane!