i saved the mosfets and the temp sensors because im a hoarder. i did save the heatsink. i actually polished one and it looks to be all brass? might come in handy. i used a pry tool while desoldering to remove the board "it will still break but damage the holder alot less" only because they might come in handy. to remove the cells, i used the flush cut hakko closely on the cells and then used the flat edge level to the cell to cut them off and it works pretty good. no holes in the negative. as always an amazing video.
I’m a recent sub and I like these tear downs videos. I have 4 of those Ryobi 40v batteries that are used in a chain saw, weed eater, and 20” push mower.
Thank you for the demo. I had the opportunity to have gotten 2 pieces of the same RYOBI Power Pack free from a recycling facility and performed the same technique to harvest 18650s. The sharp Ni strip pieces on the + / - poles were removed carefully by Dremel rotary tool. Specifically taking care not to injure the parent metal.
@@LithiumSolar Me too. Not only the risk of explosive decompression of the battery, but also the possibility of high velocity nickel shards in the eye or other body parts!!
I've rebuilt a couple of these, so I carefully desoldered all the balance points and used a dremel to cut the nickel strips at the bend point where they go from the battery to the plastic holders.
Awesome :) It's always easier to destroy than rebuild, but given the cost of these batteries for people who are actually using them in power tools, rebuilding is a great option as well!
For those that don't have security bits handy, I've had luck in the past taking a flathead and snapping the security studs out prior to buying the correct bits
Hi, good work, could you please tell me the references of the CI in the lower left part of the board ? ( soic 14?) mine is broken and impossible to read the ref's Thanks.
Very informative! I want to replace thew batteries in my Ryobi bat pack. unfortunately, I removed the batteries without making a sketch of where the plus and minus layout. Can you help me? Thanks Fred ernst
Excellent video, i want to buy those batteries to recycle the cells but i was curious how to take them apart and the insides, thanks, also do you think i could still use them to build and/or replace battery packs for power tools, for example, nicd to lithium?
Yes, the cells are definitely still usable/good in most cases. For nicad to lithium, have to consider the full and empty voltages - 3.2V LiFePO4 is usually a better fit for conversions than 3.7V Li-Ion.
If you have to ask, then no it is too much of a learning curve to convert from NiCd to lithium. First, it's not the voltage that's the problem as much as needing BMS to provide a low voltage cutoff for safety and a charger specifically designed for Li-Ion cells, which with a tool battery for practical purposes means it would need be shoehorned into the original charger cradle as the Li-Ion chargers for newer generatons, typically went with a different battery interface. It could be air-wired, and every step can be accomplished, but again if you have to ask, you are not ready to do it until you have enough information that you won't have to ask. Incorrect implementation of Li-Ion cells poses a very real fire hazard.
I bought batterys for my bell & howel flashlights on amazon. & they just work great & I just Love them & their very Dependable durring severe weather season
I've just checked two units. My advice is to check on even working units the two MOSFETs. The Rds increases to kiloohms causing no go or poor performance. Personally on any I do from now on I will replace the $2au x 2 parts regardless.aliexpress sell in tens.
They will work except you need to determine if you need protected cells and since there are several in a pack and you need only ONE at a time for vaping, you might just want to buy one or two at a time, factory fresh cells instead of more salvage grade cells than you need.
Thanks for the information. I have really enjoyed your videos. I purchased a couple of these to experiment with the 18650 batteries. All of the cells test at either 0 or .1 volts. Is that normal? Do you have any safe techniques to revive them or just mark it up to experience and move on to other battery sources?
No it is not normal and yes they are permanently damaged, unsuitable for projects now and possibly a safety risk. Since it is abnormal even from the same source, it is up to you how much more to pay to reduce your gamble elsehwere, as any low cost battery seller with B-stock or gray market is a gamble compared to a major distributor of new factory fresh cells that werent' being harvested from an already fault battery pack (or else it wouldn't cost pennies on the dollar).
I have purchased hundreds of these. Many are discharged down below 1Volt. However, 98% of these come back to life with no problems, IF YOU CHARGE THEM SLOWLY, with a TP4056 module set to approximately 100mA. Then... After one or two more cycles in my Opus charger at 300mA I have no issues. Their capacity is usually 90% of ‘new’ or better, and their internal resistance is in line with the spec sheets. A few might start to slowly self discharge, so I just set them aside. Overall, these are a great deal, but require some patience and a method to slow charge, (after which you can charge them normally).
I loose the weld burr's by a QUICK touch of a Dremel Sanding disc. I use the Drum type I get more then upset if the cells are below 3v. Don't remember ever getting batteries from BatteryHookUp below 2v.
Better question is WHY charge them with a Ryobi charger if you're just going to harvest them out and charge another way, anyway? You are better off not having the cells at higher energy state while disassembling it, in case you make some electrical short.
Yes. That's what I did here. I tested them on the Opus BT-C3100 using the CHARGE TEST mode, which measures and reports the capacity on the discharge cycle of the test.
Thanks for video. First, how are cells supposed to be charged in the original pack? I gather that its not from the + and - terminals on the pack. Also, just wondering at what amperage rate you are discharging the cells? I want to use them for relatively high-discharge in RC airplanes, and each cell would be drawing about 5 amps. Have you measured the internal resistance as well? (Richard, not picture-that's wife).
Yes, they charge from the main positive and main negative. All of the connections in-between are for the BMS - monitoring and balancing. When testing cells, I always charge and discharge at 1000mA. I find this provides a good "work out" for the cell and helps identify cells that are faulty or near failure. A 5A draw on these cells should be more than safe, but I would double check the data sheets for the specific cells you have.
Any modular power tool battery is more than capable of 5A, typical current capacity is closer to 20A. If I were you, I would not even use the higher current tool battery cells and instead go for a higher power density cell with a lower max current capacity to improve your power or runtime to weight ratio.
Holy cow, I thought my med packs were hard to tear apart, this is way more difficult. I just got one of these at the local Home Depot, but thanks to your video, I suppose I'll save this as a bonus giveaway pack to one of my local buyers.
To be fair, it's like any other battery - once you open several, you learn the fast way to do it. The first time or two are always slow trying to figure out the best method.
May not be a bad idea to charge the battery first with a 40v bench voltage regulator. Then when you disassemble most of the batteries will already be charged. Just hook up a wire to + on the battery terminal then there is a ground on the circuit board. bunch of videos on how to fix those 40v batteries.
Pretty cool, I’ve opened a few packs myself. I think they where 2.5 mAh. I’m curious I just ordered some of the 40 V 5.0 mAh, I think they are 160 W total but I was curious What type of 18650s come in those packs?
@@LithiumSolar Thanks for the info. Not sure that's worth the 50% price difference between them here in Aussie, though, YMMV! I suppose if you have a lot of cells to test, then being able to do that in half the time might be useful.
You'll find it a lot easier to use sharp flush cutters because their cutting edge can get right down to the surface. I always desolder with a solder sucker to release the boards, and collect the tin. It all adds up! Destroying good mosfets is sacrilege! They are some of the most useful things on the planet!
Are you recycling the tin for scrap value? I hear a lot about people reusing so many different kind of components and I'm just not sure what they're doing to be honest. I don't have a use, even if I did, I don't have time. I would give them away to someone, but then you have to pay shipping.
@@LithiumSolar It costs nothing to *not* throw the tin away and just empty the sucker into a tin. I just melt it occasionally to make more room. At $17 per kilo I think it makes sense. I do the same with copper and nickel busbars and collected a few kilos for recycling already. Can get palladium ($80000/kg) and silver out of MLCC capacitors, but they're so tiny it probably isn't worth the hassle of desoldering them. Gold from the connectors may also be worth recovering, and I think we all have thousands of those. The only things I throw away are the ABS cases, and they go in the recycling bin. It would be cool to remelt them instead and turn into 3D printing filament!
@@ahaveland It costs in time and hassle to collect it all, melt it down, seek and deliver it somewhere. It makes very little sense except in a 3rd world country where you have scrap PCBs up to your eyeballs but no money. Your time is better spent earning money other ways in 1st world countries. $17 a kilo is very little money for very much work to collect that much. Plus I don't even use a solder sucker, don't need to if not trying to collect it so all around, much more work for very low pay.
@@stinkycheese804 If you're desoldering anyway, then it is no extra effort to empty the sucker into a box so the tin / lead can be recycled responsibly. In any case, circuit boards can be treated as high grade ore and recycled en masse, and profitably.
Great video, I think with that low of voltage I would charge this at a very low current, I will charge these over discharged cells at .1 amp until they get up to the cells minimum voltage as recommended by the cells data specs then charge at .3 amp to 2/3 charge then finish at .5 amps. I have had pretty good luck recovering around 95% capacity. I throw away 0.0 volt discharged cells and also compare their internal resistance readings with what the manufactures specs say, with a good meter using the 1khz waveform method like the Yaorea YR1035+ make and model. Use these readings to track the cells health as you use them, log it on the cells, invest a little time recovering these over discharged cells to get the max capacity and use of these cells. If you don't have an IR meter to check the cells you can use a couple of ceramic 1 watt resistors to put a load on the cells then measure the voltage drop before and after applying the load, you can find a U-Tube video showing this method, like Scott Bakula says on NCIS New Orleans "Go learn things" and be safe.
I've got 2 ebike batteries that are doing the same thing. the built in break light turns on when i switch the battery on BUT when i have the battery plugged into the bike it wont power on or if it does only when leaning the bike in just the right way. The first battery died 6 months ago and so the warranty covered it. the second one died a few days ago.. I was thinking i could probably combine the two batteries into a working one somehow and replace any broken parts of it but I'm terrified to open it up and start touching the innards lol. There are PLENTY of "this is how you build an ebike battery" videos out there but couldnt find any "this is how you take a charged one apart safely (or how to discharge it THEN take it apart) Perhaps I just shouldn't risk it lol... I just cant afford 600 dollars for a new battery so now i have no transportation...
How expensive is the shipping fore you pp i live in the netherlands and fore 10 its €102 plus 22% tax and 60 cell pack prise i will pay around €172 fore 10 packs
It cost me $16 USD to ship the 5 batteries. I'm less than 2 hours from their warehouse and could pick them up too if I wanted. The taxes and import fees of other countries really sucks, sorry man :(
Pretty good at $75/kWh, $67.50/kWh with the discount code. Also brass is getting pricey and the PCB scrap value could take another 10% or so off the cost
Practically speaking that is ridiculous. Nobody would be buying enough scrap batteries (for a project that large) to have sufficient scrap material to make it worth the bother to haul it in for scrap value of the metal. Brass really is not that expensive, and there isn't that much of it. You'd make more money using the vehicle as an Uber to give someone a ride somewhere instead of riding yourself to the scrapyard.
Haha, just found this... I like my method better, but yours is definitely safer! What amperage do you charge them at initially to bring them back from the dead?
Lol yes. I was going to share the video when you asked, but didn't feel right sharing my own video in the comments of where you posted your video (felt like spam lol). It's safer but destructive... in the event anyone is actually trying to repair and reuse them. I put them in the TP4056 thing first, which might have started at a lower amperage, but am not sure to be honest. I typically charge everything at 1000mA and never had any problems. I never bothered with trickle charging like others do.
i had bought three of these and 2 were dead. I was pretty disappointed. in 2 of the packs at least one of the series were at 0V, and the rest of them were around 1 to 2V. they werent expensive so how mad can i be i guess?
The cells at 1-2V should still recover and test fine? The 0V cells were likely the reason the battery pack as a whole was dead > the BMS shut it down for safety.
So depleted cells is smart to charge them at very low current... By tp ic-s boards I have changed R2 resistors... 👍 Now I don't get so much heaters.... 👍. Live long and prosper🖖😎👍
@@LithiumSolar --- Well, hold on..... your wording makes me think that you might be misinterpreting him about using resistors during charging. The TP4056 boards come with a bunch of parts soldered onto the board. Bostjan Trancar is saying: Specifically, resistor R2 can be swapped out to adjust the current down to a very small amount, regardless of the present state of charge. (side note: the TP4056 automatically "trickle" charges the lithium cells up to 2.9 volts, then resumes normal CC charging levels of 1 Amp. Changing resistor R2 on the board forces it to stay at whatever current level that you desire instead of the default of 1 Amp.)
They were actually somewhat fun to disassemble too. It's nice to do something different for a chance rather than the same old laptop batteries over and over again :)
That sounds a good deal and they look well made. Shame I'm in the UK, $54.29 DHL :- ( You can use the temp sensors on mico computers like the Raspberry Pi. Nice video, thanks
@@LithiumSolar Those are most likely NTC resistors. It can be confirmed by using a multimeter to check the resistance between the leads. The resistance should drop quite noticeably if you just touch them with your hand to heat them up. The NTC is a resistor whose value depends on temperature (Negative Temperature Coefficient -> higher temperature = lower resistance). Many types exist with different room-temp resistance and temperature dependence, but the most common ones are "10k Ohm 3950". They can be read using an analog input pin of a microcontroller quite readily with just a pull-up resistor to form a resistive divider (a capacitor is often added in parallel to the NTC to smooth out the reading in presence of external noise).
I am always a little surprised to see the effort people put into tearing packs apart and removing spot welds only to then reassemble them into packs and spot weld them together. I try to use them largely as they are e.g. a 6s2p pack can be split into 2x 12v sub-packs or bridged into one 4p 12v pack, re-purposing the formers holding cells together. I also try to solder to those pre-existing zinc tabs (when I have to solder) rather to cells directly, which is another argument for leaving the welds in place.
NEVER !! Hammer The Tabs Leftovers To The Battery it's like tpping a nail to the back of the battery , using sand paper on flat tabel / nail file - to sand them off until they dont stick out is the fare more safe and keeps the battery intact . ( you neet to make sure you dont sand off the plastic wrap on the negative side though ,) i got the best resault using a rotery tool with a small sandpaper bit , - happy harvesting .
What do you mean? $6 for 20 name brand cells. They were only 30 cents each and still have 85% life in them!!! That's a bargain for high current 18650's. Just because they arrive at low voltages is meaningless. Over 99% of the thousands I have resurrected from "near zero" volts are perfectly fine after you charge them up (very slowly with low current). The myth that they can't be brought back to life is exactly that... a myth. The TP4056 chip is specifically designed to "trickle charge" these low voltage lithium cells up to approximately 2.9Volts, then resume normal CC levels until it reaches a full charge. A quick note regarding their (relatively) low capacity... think about it like this: if you were to parallel up three of these cells and pretend it's a single cell, you'd have a 3300mAh cell with 60 amp capability for only 90 cents! That's phenomenal! So why wouldn't you be happy? I don't understand.
@@test-193 How about because batteries are normally used for portable devices so tripling up the cells just to arrive at higher capacity is far less than desirable. Plus a lot of work and time spent, can only mean you don't have any skills to earn money as you can earn far more money than you save with the time spent to do all this. Never underestimate the value of your time. In the blink of an eye, decades go by and doors that were once open are closed and there are few do-overs. I guarantee you will not look back in 20 years and wish you had spent your time making more battery packs from salvage. Likewise you won't wish you had watched more youtube videos. You won't understand until you look back at the other things you could have been doing.
Stinky Cheese - heh heh, you’re hilarious... “I Don’t have the skills to make money?” I’m a NASA Aerospace Engineer. My biggest motivation is not making money, or saving time when working on hobbies.... it’s the CHALLENGE of accomplishing something. The priorities in YOUR life may not be the only correct priorities. I get a great sense of achievement from taking discarded lithium cells and turning them into a functioning, high capacity battery that can power the lights in my house for several weeks VIA solar panels. Sure... it takes time, but this is a hobby that I enjoy immensely, so the time is well spent in my opinion. How about: You do you, I’ll do me. No need to argue with each other about personal preferences. And I stand by my original statement: Name brand cells (Samsung, LG) with 3300mAh capacity and 60 amp capability for only 90 cents is phenomenal! The fact that they may come to you with a low voltage doesn't matter. Simply charge them up slowly with a TP4056 set to low current and you're all set. Just be sure to test their internal resistance, self discharge rate, and obviously their capacity in mAh (and how it compares to their 'brand new' capacity). I also disagree with you that people are using these salvaged cells in portable applications. Maybe some people, however, I would venture to guess that most buyers of these salvaged cells are using them in a DIY powerwall of some type by paralleling dozens, hundreds, or even thousands of them.
With all of the battery stuff you do, I would think you would have some sort of power screwdriver to remove screws. Would make your videos a little shorter;)
I pulled out these cells, they test as ni-mh!? Is iy false advertising on Ryobi? Lgdaha11865, Giant Label Saying Lithium, Both my chargers say NI-MH and test full 1.19 volt
The cells you got are LG “HA1”. 18650 cells. Yours have discharged down to a low voltage, that’s typical in these salvaged packs. Your charger doesn’t have the ability to distinguish between Ni-MH and Lithium so it simply checks the voltage and decides that it must be Ni-MH because you don’t normally see Li-ion down at 1 Volt. You need to use a TP4056 board with current lowered to 100mA for the first charge cycle. Then treat it like all of your other Li-ion cells.
I have mechanics gloves that fit well but you loose grabbing precision lol. Maybe I need some of those electricians gloves I see people wearing in videos? I'm not sure what they're called.
@@LithiumSolar honestly, I've cut my hands on nickel strip so many times, I was flinching everytime you pulled at those nickel tabs.... lol. Great video... one day I'll get time to document my build.
You have no idea what you talking about when comes to what on the board. Amps are what hurt you, not volts. They are heat switch that can be hook to a relay board.
You're a bit clueless yourself. Go touch the positive and negative terminals on your car battery. At only 12 volts, NOTHING happens. But increase that to 40 Volts, and you'll definitely get zapped genius. You can't just say Amps are the only thing that matters. It's both. And these batteries can deliver 40 Volts, and 40+ Amps... that's enough to do some serious damage to the human body if you're not careful.
Umm, no. The human body has significant resistance so it requires high voltage to produce a few dozen mA, enough to interrupt brain and heart functions. The only way to force more than dozens of amps through the body is with a very high voltage.
@@test-193 No it is not both. Ohm's law. 40V with a current limit of 100mA will shock you just as much as 40V with a current limit of 10,000,000 amps. The resultant current through the body depends only on voltage and any battery will produce enough current to be a problem. 100V at 20mA is much more dangerous than a 40V, 40A+ power tool battery. 40V isn't actually all that dangerous, you'll feel it, particularly if you have sweaty skin, but likely not lose all muscle control and be unable to pull away.
The Lg cells are junk , its seems only 15%( 2-3 out of 20 cells) can still hold a charge over their lifespan in these packs, IF They charge up and HOLD a charge , it seems to be their characteristic and alot of people pull them out dead even though they look brand new , and try to bring them back to life but they dont last at all and discharge to a low voltage in about 2 or 4 weeks . I have seen this with Lg cells alot and it tells me they are just cheaply made and only work properly for a short period of time like 1-2 years and then they begin to leak down to 0volts . This is why many ryobi packs with Lg batteries are dead dead dead all over they place and its a waste of time trying to rejuvenate them in any form.. I truly think the chinese just make 1 good one every 3-4 batteries IF that ,produced rolling off the assembly line On Purpose and skimp on the internals super paper thin chemistry paste etc watered down diluted that doesnt last, and its just another creative manufactured money scam to sell as many battery packs they can .
i saved the mosfets and the temp sensors because im a hoarder. i did save the heatsink. i actually polished one and it looks to be all brass? might come in handy. i used a pry tool while desoldering to remove the board "it will still break but damage the holder alot less" only because they might come in handy. to remove the cells, i used the flush cut hakko closely on the cells and then used the flat edge level to the cell to cut them off and it works pretty good. no holes in the negative. as always an amazing video.
I’m a recent sub and I like these tear downs videos. I have 4 of those Ryobi 40v batteries that are used in a chain saw, weed eater, and 20” push mower.
Wana sale those battries?
Thank you for the demo. I had the opportunity to have gotten 2 pieces of the same RYOBI Power Pack free from a recycling facility and performed the same technique to harvest 18650s. The sharp Ni strip pieces on the + / - poles were removed carefully by Dremel rotary tool. Specifically taking care not to injure the parent metal.
Oh man, I'd be afraid to go near it with a Dremel!
@@LithiumSolar
Me too. Not only the risk of explosive decompression of the battery, but also the possibility of high velocity nickel shards in the eye or other body parts!!
I've rebuilt a couple of these, so I carefully desoldered all the balance points and used a dremel to cut the nickel strips at the bend point where they go from the battery to the plastic holders.
Awesome :) It's always easier to destroy than rebuild, but given the cost of these batteries for people who are actually using them in power tools, rebuilding is a great option as well!
You should do a video on how to rebuild these battery packs for those who have the 40v tools.
@@risingwarrior9937 Its not easy. Next time one of my packs fails I'll try, but no guarantees. I could be a while.
Out of all the laptop packs I've opened, the samsung cells have the highest rate of still being good or the best capacity.
Same here. The LG always seem to be either dead or test very low capacity...
and the sanyo cells are very bad
For those that don't have security bits handy, I've had luck in the past taking a flathead and snapping the security studs out prior to buying the correct bits
Or just use a left hand drill bit... it's not like you're going to need to put the pack casing back together, right?
Hi, good work, could you please tell me the references of the CI in the lower left part of the board ? ( soic 14?) mine is broken and impossible to read the ref's Thanks.
Very informative! I want to replace thew batteries in my Ryobi bat pack. unfortunately, I removed the batteries without making a sketch of where the plus and minus layout. Can you help me? Thanks Fred ernst
Excellent video, i want to buy those batteries to recycle the cells but i was curious how to take them apart and the insides, thanks, also do you think i could still use them to build and/or replace battery packs for power tools, for example, nicd to lithium?
Yes, the cells are definitely still usable/good in most cases. For nicad to lithium, have to consider the full and empty voltages - 3.2V LiFePO4 is usually a better fit for conversions than 3.7V Li-Ion.
If you have to ask, then no it is too much of a learning curve to convert from NiCd to lithium. First, it's not the voltage that's the problem as much as needing BMS to provide a low voltage cutoff for safety and a charger specifically designed for Li-Ion cells, which with a tool battery for practical purposes means it would need be shoehorned into the original charger cradle as the Li-Ion chargers for newer generatons, typically went with a different battery interface. It could be air-wired, and every step can be accomplished, but again if you have to ask, you are not ready to do it until you have enough information that you won't have to ask. Incorrect implementation of Li-Ion cells poses a very real fire hazard.
Do u still have the case for the 40v batteries? Im trying to get a few for my tools
No, sorry. I should have kept the cases but didn't think anyone would want them.
@@LithiumSolar im tried the link but they are not in stock anymore 😢 Love u videos..
Excellent!
Will the same process work for the RYOBI OP 40401 40v batteriy pack?
I bought batterys for my bell & howel flashlights on amazon. & they just work great
& I just Love them & their very
Dependable durring severe weather season
Where can we get that charger?
what can these batteries be used for @85% capacity?
Regular voltage should be 3.2v and these are testing .1v wouldn’t they be considered dead?
I've just checked two units. My advice is to check on even working units the two MOSFETs. The Rds increases to kiloohms causing no go or poor performance. Personally on any I do from now on I will replace the $2au x 2 parts regardless.aliexpress sell in tens.
Thanks for the Tear Down!
will these batteries work for vaping mods that use the 18650 batteries?
They are high-drain cells, so I don't see why not, but I am not familiar enough with vaping, or the power required, to answer with certainty.
They will work except you need to determine if you need protected cells and since there are several in a pack and you need only ONE at a time for vaping, you might just want to buy one or two at a time, factory fresh cells instead of more salvage grade cells than you need.
Thanks for the information. I have really enjoyed your videos. I purchased a couple of these to experiment with the 18650 batteries. All of the cells test at either 0 or .1 volts. Is that normal? Do you have any safe techniques to revive them or just mark it up to experience and move on to other battery sources?
No it is not normal and yes they are permanently damaged, unsuitable for projects now and possibly a safety risk. Since it is abnormal even from the same source, it is up to you how much more to pay to reduce your gamble elsehwere, as any low cost battery seller with B-stock or gray market is a gamble compared to a major distributor of new factory fresh cells that werent' being harvested from an already fault battery pack (or else it wouldn't cost pennies on the dollar).
I have purchased hundreds of these. Many are discharged down below 1Volt. However, 98% of these come back to life with no problems, IF YOU CHARGE THEM SLOWLY, with a TP4056 module set to approximately 100mA. Then... After one or two more cycles in my Opus charger at 300mA I have no issues. Their capacity is usually 90% of ‘new’ or better, and their internal resistance is in line with the spec sheets. A few might start to slowly self discharge, so I just set them aside. Overall, these are a great deal, but require some patience and a method to slow charge, (after which you can charge them normally).
As test said already, the key is to charge en slowly while they are low voltage. A lab psu on like 20ma would be a good source to start
I loose the weld burr's by a QUICK touch of a Dremel Sanding disc. I use the Drum type
I get more then upset if the cells are below 3v. Don't remember ever getting batteries from BatteryHookUp below 2v.
Where are the tear down soda sort of test points?
Do you get much trouble with self discharging on these cells?
No, I haven't noticed any self-discharge problems with the Ryobi-pack cells I received. Unlike the Swagtron cells...
Since all the cells were working - why not charge them with the ryobi?
Since all the cells are working, it's likely the circuit boards (BMS) that's dead. Also, I don't have a Ryobi charger or any tools ;)
Better question is WHY charge them with a Ryobi charger if you're just going to harvest them out and charge another way, anyway? You are better off not having the cells at higher energy state while disassembling it, in case you make some electrical short.
It’s it more accurate to get the total capacity of a cell by discharging it from full capacity rather than charging it from empty?
Yes. That's what I did here. I tested them on the Opus BT-C3100 using the CHARGE TEST mode, which measures and reports the capacity on the discharge cycle of the test.
It's most accurate to get the capacity per cell by placing it under the same drain rate as the project you'll be using it in, and same temperature.
Great informative lesson on recycling used batteries. Thanks for posting.
Instablaster
I got 20 of those and from 10 packs only 3 cells were bad. 👍👍
Great results!
Thanks for video. First, how are cells supposed to be charged in the original pack? I gather that its not from the + and - terminals on the pack. Also, just wondering at what amperage rate you are discharging the cells? I want to use them for relatively high-discharge in RC airplanes, and each cell would be drawing about 5 amps. Have you measured the internal resistance as well? (Richard, not picture-that's wife).
Yes, they charge from the main positive and main negative. All of the connections in-between are for the BMS - monitoring and balancing. When testing cells, I always charge and discharge at 1000mA. I find this provides a good "work out" for the cell and helps identify cells that are faulty or near failure. A 5A draw on these cells should be more than safe, but I would double check the data sheets for the specific cells you have.
Any modular power tool battery is more than capable of 5A, typical current capacity is closer to 20A. If I were you, I would not even use the higher current tool battery cells and instead go for a higher power density cell with a lower max current capacity to improve your power or runtime to weight ratio.
Holy cow, I thought my med packs were hard to tear apart, this is way more difficult. I just got one of these at the local Home Depot, but thanks to your video, I suppose I'll save this as a bonus giveaway pack to one of my local buyers.
To be fair, it's like any other battery - once you open several, you learn the fast way to do it. The first time or two are always slow trying to figure out the best method.
May not be a bad idea to charge the battery first with a 40v bench voltage regulator. Then when you disassemble most of the batteries will already be charged. Just hook up a wire to + on the battery terminal then there is a ground on the circuit board. bunch of videos on how to fix those 40v batteries.
Pretty cool, I’ve opened a few packs myself. I think they where 2.5 mAh. I’m curious I just ordered some of the 40 V 5.0 mAh, I think they are 160 W total but I was curious What type of 18650s come in those packs?
I wonder if you've tried the littokala Lii-500 analyser/charger? It's what I use and I find cheaper and at least as good s the OPUS.
The Littokala can only test at 500mA current per slot. The Opus will test at 1000mA current per slot.
@@LithiumSolar
Thanks for the info. Not sure that's worth the 50% price difference between them here in Aussie, though, YMMV! I suppose if you have a lot of cells to test, then being able to do that in half the time might be useful.
You'll find it a lot easier to use sharp flush cutters because their cutting edge can get right down to the surface.
I always desolder with a solder sucker to release the boards, and collect the tin. It all adds up!
Destroying good mosfets is sacrilege! They are some of the most useful things on the planet!
Are you recycling the tin for scrap value? I hear a lot about people reusing so many different kind of components and I'm just not sure what they're doing to be honest. I don't have a use, even if I did, I don't have time. I would give them away to someone, but then you have to pay shipping.
@@LithiumSolar It costs nothing to *not* throw the tin away and just empty the sucker into a tin. I just melt it occasionally to make more room. At $17 per kilo I think it makes sense.
I do the same with copper and nickel busbars and collected a few kilos for recycling already.
Can get palladium ($80000/kg) and silver out of MLCC capacitors, but they're so tiny it probably isn't worth the hassle of desoldering them.
Gold from the connectors may also be worth recovering, and I think we all have thousands of those.
The only things I throw away are the ABS cases, and they go in the recycling bin.
It would be cool to remelt them instead and turn into 3D printing filament!
@@ahaveland It costs in time and hassle to collect it all, melt it down, seek and deliver it somewhere. It makes very little sense except in a 3rd world country where you have scrap PCBs up to your eyeballs but no money. Your time is better spent earning money other ways in 1st world countries. $17 a kilo is very little money for very much work to collect that much. Plus I don't even use a solder sucker, don't need to if not trying to collect it so all around, much more work for very low pay.
@@stinkycheese804 If you're desoldering anyway, then it is no extra effort to empty the sucker into a box so the tin / lead can be recycled responsibly.
In any case, circuit boards can be treated as high grade ore and recycled en masse, and profitably.
Thanks for the Link, I ordered myself 5 Packs from your link, if I like what I see, I will order 10 more! Great Video!
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel! Let us know how they are :)
Great video, I think with that low of voltage I would charge this at a very low current, I will charge these over discharged cells at .1 amp until they get up to the cells minimum voltage as recommended by the cells data specs then charge at .3 amp to 2/3 charge then finish at .5 amps. I have had pretty good luck recovering around 95% capacity. I throw away 0.0 volt discharged cells and also compare their internal resistance readings with what the manufactures specs say, with a good meter using the 1khz waveform method like the Yaorea YR1035+ make and model. Use these readings to track the cells health as you use them, log it on the cells, invest a little time recovering these over discharged cells to get the max capacity and use of these cells. If you don't have an IR meter to check the cells you can use a couple of ceramic 1 watt resistors to put a load on the cells then measure the voltage drop before and after applying the load, you can find a U-Tube video showing this method, like Scott Bakula says on NCIS New Orleans "Go learn things" and be safe.
I've got 2 ebike batteries that are doing the same thing. the built in break light turns on when i switch the battery on BUT when i have the battery plugged into the bike it wont power on or if it does only when leaning the bike in just the right way. The first battery died 6 months ago and so the warranty covered it. the second one died a few days ago..
I was thinking i could probably combine the two batteries into a working one somehow and replace any broken parts of it but I'm terrified to open it up and start touching the innards lol. There are PLENTY of "this is how you build an ebike battery" videos out there but couldnt find any "this is how you take a charged one apart safely (or how to discharge it THEN take it apart) Perhaps I just shouldn't risk it lol... I just cant afford 600 dollars for a new battery so now i have no transportation...
How expensive is the shipping fore you pp i live in the netherlands and fore 10 its €102 plus 22% tax and 60 cell pack prise i will pay around €172 fore 10 packs
It cost me $16 USD to ship the 5 batteries. I'm less than 2 hours from their warehouse and could pick them up too if I wanted. The taxes and import fees of other countries really sucks, sorry man :(
Those mosfets can be used on all kinds of things. Power tools audio equipment. TVs
Pretty good at $75/kWh, $67.50/kWh with the discount code. Also brass is getting pricey and the PCB scrap value could take another 10% or so off the cost
I haven't found anywhere to recycle those kinds of things yet for scrap value :/
Practically speaking that is ridiculous. Nobody would be buying enough scrap batteries (for a project that large) to have sufficient scrap material to make it worth the bother to haul it in for scrap value of the metal. Brass really is not that expensive, and there isn't that much of it. You'd make more money using the vehicle as an Uber to give someone a ride somewhere instead of riding yourself to the scrapyard.
I should also add that out of six tools six of the cell or what you would call heater cells they were too hot to hold on charging. and one vented
Damn :( Sorry man. I've charged tens of thousands of cells, probably pushing 50k... and have never had a single cell vent yet.
Sounds like you are charging them with too much current. How are you charging them and at what current level?
Haha, just found this... I like my method better, but yours is definitely safer! What amperage do you charge them at initially to bring them back from the dead?
Lol yes. I was going to share the video when you asked, but didn't feel right sharing my own video in the comments of where you posted your video (felt like spam lol). It's safer but destructive... in the event anyone is actually trying to repair and reuse them. I put them in the TP4056 thing first, which might have started at a lower amperage, but am not sure to be honest. I typically charge everything at 1000mA and never had any problems. I never bothered with trickle charging like others do.
i had bought three of these and 2 were dead. I was pretty disappointed. in 2 of the packs at least one of the series were at 0V, and the rest of them were around 1 to 2V. they werent expensive so how mad can i be i guess?
The cells at 1-2V should still recover and test fine? The 0V cells were likely the reason the battery pack as a whole was dead > the BMS shut it down for safety.
So depleted cells is smart to charge them at very low current...
By tp ic-s boards I have changed R2 resistors... 👍
Now I don't get so much heaters.... 👍.
Live long and prosper🖖😎👍
Thanks for the ideas, hadn't thought to use resistors to show-charge. I haven't had any heaters using the TP4056 directly.
@@LithiumSolar --- Well, hold on..... your wording makes me think that you might be misinterpreting him about using resistors during charging. The TP4056 boards come with a bunch of parts soldered onto the board. Bostjan Trancar is saying: Specifically, resistor R2 can be swapped out to adjust the current down to a very small amount, regardless of the present state of charge. (side note: the TP4056 automatically "trickle" charges the lithium cells up to 2.9 volts, then resumes normal CC charging levels of 1 Amp. Changing resistor R2 on the board forces it to stay at whatever current level that you desire instead of the default of 1 Amp.)
Is it very dangerous to charge a battery with such low voltage?
Not at all, but you still have to observe the charge termination voltage and it will be slightly lower at the reduced charge rate.
Fun video! I might get some of these packs.
They were actually somewhat fun to disassemble too. It's nice to do something different for a chance rather than the same old laptop batteries over and over again :)
Great video thanks
Awesome!!!!!!!!!
vary good and informative vid
That sounds a good deal and they look well made. Shame I'm in the UK, $54.29
DHL
:- (
You can use the temp sensors on mico computers like the Raspberry Pi.
Nice video, thanks
I assume there would be some kind of interface or chip between the sensors and the Pi? That's the part I'm unsure of.
@@LithiumSolar Yes you would use a DS18B20 temp sensor IC
@@LithiumSolar Those are most likely NTC resistors. It can be confirmed by using a multimeter to check the resistance between the leads. The resistance should drop quite noticeably if you just touch them with your hand to heat them up. The NTC is a resistor whose value depends on temperature (Negative Temperature Coefficient -> higher temperature = lower resistance). Many types exist with different room-temp resistance and temperature dependence, but the most common ones are "10k Ohm 3950". They can be read using an analog input pin of a microcontroller quite readily with just a pull-up resistor to form a resistive divider (a capacitor is often added in parallel to the NTC to smooth out the reading in presence of external noise).
If you want to tear down some tool battery packs go for 120v power tool batteries they have 60 18650 cells
Great vid.
Thanks for watching :)
Awesome bud
Came here to see how many cells are in there. Snippy tool is giving me anxiety with now it can short the pack very easily.
I am always a little surprised to see the effort people put into tearing packs apart and removing spot welds only to then reassemble them into packs and spot weld them together. I try to use them largely as they are e.g. a 6s2p pack can be split into 2x 12v sub-packs or bridged into one 4p 12v pack, re-purposing the formers holding cells together. I also try to solder to those pre-existing zinc tabs (when I have to solder) rather to cells directly, which is another argument for leaving the welds in place.
Nice meter!!!
Thanks! I wish I could stay it still worked :( I've been trying to find a replacement rotary dial without any luck.
Are those LG batteries?
Yes
@@LithiumSolar Have you ever compared LG, Samsung and Amazon rechargeable batteries?
NEVER !! Hammer The Tabs Leftovers To The Battery
it's like tpping a nail to the back of the battery ,
using sand paper on flat tabel / nail file - to sand them off until they dont stick out is the fare more safe and
keeps the battery intact . ( you neet to make sure you dont sand off the plastic wrap on the negative side though ,)
i got the best resault using a rotery tool with a small sandpaper bit ,
- happy harvesting .
Yes
My son has use of those T-sensors for bombcalorimetry measurements using Arduino.....Science bowl. ;))
I'm suprised and disappointed to find these 40v batteries aren't using the somewhat more energy dense 21700 cells.
Great v.
Bargain for ebikes ! Wish we could get them in Australia 🇦🇺
you can, the shipping kills it though
How did u turn out?
I know $6 isn’t much but if I got that battery with all 20 cells at that voltage I wouldn’t be too happy.
I do agree, but I knew they were being sold as "for parts" and "salvage" when I bought them. I wouldn't have been happy otherwise.
What do you mean? $6 for 20 name brand cells. They were only 30 cents each and still have 85% life in them!!! That's a bargain for high current 18650's. Just because they arrive at low voltages is meaningless. Over 99% of the thousands I have resurrected from "near zero" volts are perfectly fine after you charge them up (very slowly with low current). The myth that they can't be brought back to life is exactly that... a myth. The TP4056 chip is specifically designed to "trickle charge" these low voltage lithium cells up to approximately 2.9Volts, then resume normal CC levels until it reaches a full charge. A quick note regarding their (relatively) low capacity... think about it like this: if you were to parallel up three of these cells and pretend it's a single cell, you'd have a 3300mAh cell with 60 amp capability for only 90 cents! That's phenomenal! So why wouldn't you be happy? I don't understand.
@@test-193 How about because batteries are normally used for portable devices so tripling up the cells just to arrive at higher capacity is far less than desirable. Plus a lot of work and time spent, can only mean you don't have any skills to earn money as you can earn far more money than you save with the time spent to do all this.
Never underestimate the value of your time. In the blink of an eye, decades go by and doors that were once open are closed and there are few do-overs. I guarantee you will not look back in 20 years and wish you had spent your time making more battery packs from salvage. Likewise you won't wish you had watched more youtube videos. You won't understand until you look back at the other things you could have been doing.
Stinky Cheese - heh heh, you’re hilarious... “I Don’t have the skills to make money?” I’m a NASA Aerospace Engineer. My biggest motivation is not making money, or saving time when working on hobbies.... it’s the CHALLENGE of accomplishing something. The priorities in YOUR life may not be the only correct priorities. I get a great sense of achievement from taking discarded lithium cells and turning them into a functioning, high capacity battery that can power the lights in my house for several weeks VIA solar panels. Sure... it takes time, but this is a hobby that I enjoy immensely, so the time is well spent in my opinion. How about: You do you, I’ll do me. No need to argue with each other about personal preferences. And I stand by my original statement: Name brand cells (Samsung, LG) with 3300mAh capacity and 60 amp capability for only 90 cents is phenomenal! The fact that they may come to you with a low voltage doesn't matter. Simply charge them up slowly with a TP4056 set to low current and you're all set. Just be sure to test their internal resistance, self discharge rate, and obviously their capacity in mAh (and how it compares to their 'brand new' capacity). I also disagree with you that people are using these salvaged cells in portable applications. Maybe some people, however, I would venture to guess that most buyers of these salvaged cells are using them in a DIY powerwall of some type by paralleling dozens, hundreds, or even thousands of them.
Over 20% of mine were bad and the rest test it out between 80 and 85%
Even at 80%, that's still a great salvage rate for the price of the batteries!
Sel the sensors on eBay and other people can use them.
The temperature sensors? I'd like to find a way to use them myself.
the bms board looks good , so it would be better to just use them raw for your ebike.
Battery hookup is out of stock on all their batteries!
Yeah they sell out fast unfortunately.
it is NOT nickel. It is stainless steel!
Everybody with a little experience should see that - including You.
Nickel strip is typically used in batteries, but you might be right. It wasn't as pliable as nickel strip usually is.
So, basically, cell replacement in one of these is royal pain.
Yeah, definitely would not recommend trying that
I use these bad boys for my vapes, lol.
I have never got a package from them anything like that!
I had those pink smashed up peanuts in several orders. They switched now to a different kind after enough people complained...
A bucket of water is a horrible idea🔥🔥🔥🔥
Is it?
With all of the battery stuff you do, I would think you would have some sort of power screwdriver to remove screws. Would make your videos a little shorter;)
I pulled out these cells, they test as ni-mh!? Is iy false advertising on Ryobi? Lgdaha11865, Giant Label Saying Lithium, Both my chargers say NI-MH and test full 1.19 volt
These are not nimh 🤣
The cells you got are LG “HA1”. 18650 cells. Yours have discharged down to a low voltage, that’s typical in these salvaged packs. Your charger doesn’t have the ability to distinguish between Ni-MH and Lithium so it simply checks the voltage and decides that it must be Ni-MH because you don’t normally see Li-ion down at 1 Volt. You need to use a TP4056 board with current lowered to 100mA for the first charge cycle. Then treat it like all of your other Li-ion cells.
Gloves........!
I have mechanics gloves that fit well but you loose grabbing precision lol. Maybe I need some of those electricians gloves I see people wearing in videos? I'm not sure what they're called.
@@LithiumSolar honestly, I've cut my hands on nickel strip so many times, I was flinching everytime you pulled at those nickel tabs.... lol. Great video... one day I'll get time to document my build.
Hahaha t1 and t2 mean. Temperature sensor 1 and temperature sensor 2 .
Or terminator 1 and he will back and the 2nd t2 actually he come back hehehe
The ediot way to Dismantling any battery
You have no idea what you talking about when comes to what on the board. Amps are what hurt you, not volts. They are heat switch that can be hook to a relay board.
Thank you for your valuable input sir.
You're a bit clueless yourself. Go touch the positive and negative terminals on your car battery. At only 12 volts, NOTHING happens. But increase that to 40 Volts, and you'll definitely get zapped genius. You can't just say Amps are the only thing that matters. It's both. And these batteries can deliver 40 Volts, and 40+ Amps... that's enough to do some serious damage to the human body if you're not careful.
Umm, no. The human body has significant resistance so it requires high voltage to produce a few dozen mA, enough to interrupt brain and heart functions. The only way to force more than dozens of amps through the body is with a very high voltage.
@@test-193 No it is not both. Ohm's law. 40V with a current limit of 100mA will shock you just as much as 40V with a current limit of 10,000,000 amps. The resultant current through the body depends only on voltage and any battery will produce enough current to be a problem. 100V at 20mA is much more dangerous than a 40V, 40A+ power tool battery. 40V isn't actually all that dangerous, you'll feel it, particularly if you have sweaty skin, but likely not lose all muscle control and be unable to pull away.
@@test-193 40v Dc will not shock you...
The Lg cells are junk , its seems only 15%( 2-3 out of 20 cells) can still hold a charge over their lifespan in these packs, IF They charge up and HOLD a charge , it seems to be their characteristic and alot of people pull them out dead even though they look brand new , and try to bring them back to life but they dont last at all and discharge to a low voltage in about 2 or 4 weeks . I have seen this with Lg cells alot and it tells me they are just cheaply made and only work properly for a short period of time like 1-2 years and then they begin to leak down to 0volts . This is why many ryobi packs with Lg batteries are dead dead dead all over they place and its a waste of time trying to rejuvenate them in any form.. I truly think the chinese just make 1 good one every 3-4 batteries IF that ,produced rolling off the assembly line On Purpose and skimp on the internals super paper thin chemistry paste etc watered down diluted that doesnt last, and its just another creative manufactured money scam to sell as many battery packs they can
.