Back when I was a kid, my dad, and the rest of the old men always said to use a business card, are the open flap of a book of paper matches. Which equals roughly 0.020 20 thousandths gap on the points, and always put a drop of oil on the pad that the points rides on the distributor cam lopes. I believe the continental engines of that series is .025 plug gap, and always replace the plugs if you pull them out, because the crush washer is no longer useable according to what I was taught half a century ago. Also not to use emory cloth, because it is actually too rough, and makes the contact points on each side jagged, and causes premature points failure. Besides it shouldn't cost more than $20.00 dollars to change points and condenser, plugs and possibly rotor button. Add in $10.00 dollars more and you have complete tuneup for typically gas engines of this nature. I typically go up one heat range, and use better grade plugs than what the book calls for, because the updraft carburetors built in with the exhaust manifold typically run on the rich side, and helps out with a little more heat in the plugs, as long as you're timing isn't too far advanced. In that case you very well could be running lean, and upping the heat range could very well cost you a piston or two. That's my knowledge of them, and I have two 135s, a 65 with 134a continental engine, and number 13 off the assembly line in 1967 perkins diesel. Also a TO 30, and a TO 20 as well, all in need of a refurbishment but 3 of the 4 work decently enough to be more than useable for my needs. Unfortunately my TO 20 was parked next to a shed that caught fire, and it didn't quite burn it up, but it did burn the tires off on one side before I could get it out, and pulled outta the way. Shame too, was very nice little two owner tractor that the original owner took excellent care of. One day I hope to get them all back to factory condition as far as mechanically.
Hi Timothy, You've provided some really good feedback and you are correct in saying that for a few dollars you can have a completely new tune up kit, but in this case, we needed to get the tractor up and running as we had to meet a tight timeline. The truth is I hadn't worked on an older gasoline engine since my apprentice days 30+ years ago so my tune-up skills were a little rusty and my memory a little cloudy. But had fun doing it and you will see how happy I was when it did fire up (on the upcoming final episode). Take good care and once again, thank you for your comments.
@@williamriquelme2147 I do understand that you work on far more advanced equipment, and that your stepping back into the stone age equivalent with the old Massey. I doubt that I could be worthy of wiping your tools off as far as knowledge of what's inside your gray matter in the mechanical as well as technical aspects of the equipment you do work on for the larger percentage of your business. I merely offered you the knowledge of what has been with me for many years now. I can fumble around on the 7.3 international diesel engine in my 2003 F250, but if it needs something more than the basics I take it to a local shop that has several young men that are well schooled in the mechanics of my truck drivetrain. Gasoline engines these days are advanced past my knowledge, but I typically can figure out mechanically what's going on, but the ECU issues are far more than my simple mechanical abilities can handle. By no means was I doubting your abilities whatsoever, but understood exactly what you were trying to remember from your younger days. The human mind is a wonderful thing, but like the memory of a overloaded memory of a computer, it takes a bit to shuffle it back into order I've found over the years. It bothers me when I know I know something, but for the life of me can't remember it, until I don't need it, and it pops right up as if it was there the whole time. I knew you would figure her out, as the continental engine is basic combustion engine at its simplest form. Pressure, fuel, air, and a bit of electricity at just the right moment. Simple as the old hit or miss engines that started this whole mechanical age that's still advancing as we speak. Thank you for the reply and stay safe and be well
I just found your channel and have been watching through this Massey series. Such great informative content! Love the 4k video. Keep this production level and I think your channel is bound to grow! I also had a question: When trouble shooting and checking for spark, how come you don't get suspicious of the spark plug itself? I've noticed other mechanics do the same. Me, I immediately try the spark plug itself first thing I do, but I'm by no means a 'real' mechanic. Cheers!
Hi Josef, at 0.30 min you will notice that i used the spark plug first to check for spark, then i moved on to the rest of the circuit. Thanks for your comments.
"Repairing an old mufuggin' tractor!" I love it just for that.
Lol, never heard of that one.
How to troubleshoot cylinder drift. And how to adapt to hoses when you don’t have test ports.
Back when I was a kid, my dad, and the rest of the old men always said to use a business card, are the open flap of a book of paper matches.
Which equals roughly 0.020 20 thousandths gap on the points, and always put a drop of oil on the pad that the points rides on the distributor cam lopes.
I believe the continental engines of that series is .025 plug gap, and always replace the plugs if you pull them out, because the crush washer is no longer useable according to what I was taught half a century ago.
Also not to use emory cloth, because it is actually too rough, and makes the contact points on each side jagged, and causes premature points failure.
Besides it shouldn't cost more than $20.00 dollars to change points and condenser, plugs and possibly rotor button.
Add in $10.00 dollars more and you have complete tuneup for typically gas engines of this nature.
I typically go up one heat range, and use better grade plugs than what the book calls for, because the updraft carburetors built in with the exhaust manifold typically run on the rich side, and helps out with a little more heat in the plugs, as long as you're timing isn't too far advanced.
In that case you very well could be running lean, and upping the heat range could very well cost you a piston or two.
That's my knowledge of them, and I have two 135s, a 65 with 134a continental engine, and number 13 off the assembly line in 1967 perkins diesel.
Also a TO 30, and a TO 20 as well, all in need of a refurbishment but 3 of the 4 work decently enough to be more than useable for my needs.
Unfortunately my TO 20 was parked next to a shed that caught fire, and it didn't quite burn it up, but it did burn the tires off on one side before I could get it out, and pulled outta the way.
Shame too, was very nice little two owner tractor that the original owner took excellent care of.
One day I hope to get them all back to factory condition as far as mechanically.
Hi Timothy, You've provided some really good feedback and you are correct in saying that for a few dollars you can have a completely new tune up kit, but in this case, we needed to get the tractor up and running as we had to meet a tight timeline. The truth is I hadn't worked on an older gasoline engine since my apprentice days 30+ years ago so my tune-up skills were a little rusty and my memory a little cloudy. But had fun doing it and you will see how happy I was when it did fire up (on the upcoming final episode). Take good care and once again, thank you for your comments.
@@williamriquelme2147 I do understand that you work on far more advanced equipment, and that your stepping back into the stone age equivalent with the old Massey.
I doubt that I could be worthy of wiping your tools off as far as knowledge of what's inside your gray matter in the mechanical as well as technical aspects of the equipment you do work on for the larger percentage of your business.
I merely offered you the knowledge of what has been with me for many years now.
I can fumble around on the 7.3 international diesel engine in my 2003 F250, but if it needs something more than the basics I take it to a local shop that has several young men that are well schooled in the mechanics of my truck drivetrain.
Gasoline engines these days are advanced past my knowledge, but I typically can figure out mechanically what's going on, but the ECU issues are far more than my simple mechanical abilities can handle.
By no means was I doubting your abilities whatsoever, but understood exactly what you were trying to remember from your younger days.
The human mind is a wonderful thing, but like the memory of a overloaded memory of a computer, it takes a bit to shuffle it back into order I've found over the years.
It bothers me when I know I know something, but for the life of me can't remember it, until I don't need it, and it pops right up as if it was there the whole time.
I knew you would figure her out, as the continental engine is basic combustion engine at its simplest form.
Pressure, fuel, air, and a bit of electricity at just the right moment.
Simple as the old hit or miss engines that started this whole mechanical age that's still advancing as we speak.
Thank you for the reply and stay safe and be well
Cheers Tim.
My Massie Ferguson 375 will not crank. How can I tell if the switch is bad?
I just found your channel and have been watching through this Massey series. Such great informative content! Love the 4k video. Keep this production level and I think your channel is bound to grow!
I also had a question: When trouble shooting and checking for spark, how come you don't get suspicious of the spark plug itself? I've noticed other mechanics do the same. Me, I immediately try the spark plug itself first thing I do, but I'm by no means a 'real' mechanic.
Cheers!
Hi Josef, at 0.30 min you will notice that i used the spark plug first to check for spark, then i moved on to the rest of the circuit.
Thanks for your comments.
ok
I suggest you use a different title as “mf” is a bad word in this generation. Anyways this was a great video.
Not all hero’s wear capes