*Memorial Day Sales over at KMTools.com* - all the blades, tools and things used in this video will be on sale... *4 Ways to Resaw a Board with and without a Bandsaw" th-cam.com/video/biAhQA5sIgk/w-d-xo.html "4 Creative Miter Splines" th-cam.com/video/w5wybH7TXwY/w-d-xo.html
I can attest that these tips are so helpful! I just finished my grandmothers urn a couple weeks ago and used many of these methods and it turned out beautiful. Sad that my best piece of work to date gets buried next week but it honoured a beautiful woman. Thanks for making us better woodworkers!
I’d add a couple of things. Choose timber carefully. Coarse grained timber like European oak will make getting those perfect corners that much more difficult; the timbers can be hard like maple but smoother grained is definitely easier. If you want an inset top and bottom, then you should make the dados (grooves) before glue up. It hides the bottom when finished and you can carefully calculate so that the inset top matches the height of the sides. A top of a different coloured timber does wonders in hiding any gaps between top and sides. When all complete, you slice off the top to your required depth. If you are using thinner stock then those mitre corners are not that strong. An inset top and bottom does help a lot but when I’m making a box of material thinner than, say 10mm, I will always reinforce the corners with timber keys. Not hard at all but the cross grain effect of the Timbers really adds strength
Jonathan - One of the best, if not the best, instructional video I have seen. Your best effort. Thanks so much. I got a lot of good tips, that I will put to good use.
Yet another tutorial! I always enjoy these guides with detailed explanations on not just what you are doing but what the outcome should be and to correct any minor imperfections as you go. You make it so easy to follow along and learn these techniques.
It's my first time trying this, cuts were no problem but came to install today and I have a 5 sided drawer this is so helpful! what a cool idea with the tape!! Thank you! Hope it goes as easy as you made it look lol
well damn, they came out perfect, mine never look that nice lol! Think I'll knock a quick sled together to help cut them on the tablesaw more accurately, cheers! 👍
Great! I would add some things. I would use the bandsaw to resaw the pieces, because the less wood you're loosing the better the continuous grain will be (very needed if you have some wild grain). I started using a miter shootingboard with the handplane, maybe not needed with a good tablesaw but my cheap jobsite tablesaw does not produce cuts ready for glueup.
Yes to the shooting board. Great tool. Honestly I think you loose about the same amount of material in the end. The bandsaw cut is so much rougher you have to run it through the planer quite a bit more
@@katzmosestools could be true. I have a fresh blade/band for the bandsaw only used for fine work and i plane the sawmarks by hand. I like to believe that I'm getting away with less wood lost. Maybe again a matter of a cheap tablesaw and a wobbly blade.
Good video but you forgot to mention that the inside of the board becomes the outside of the box for the best match. I would like to see a TH-camr test miters with and without splines. Say, make two boxes and ship them around the world wrapped up in only paper and see what happens. After 20+ years of making boxes with and without splines I have never had a miter fail. Keep up the good work.
Loved the tutorial. I noticed you wipe glue on your apron. I assume the waxed canvas prevents it from sticking. How do you clean it up? Love this idea. I was just looking at your store and found a host of items I would like to have. Thanks for your time. 😊
Hey thanks for this! I’m currently working on a stove cover. I’m using 45 miters on all joints (to join sides together like your video…and the top). So I have to deal with 3-way miter joints. I’ve done a few practice runs and it just feels like luck more than skill when they can be forced together and look pretty good… any ideas for how to do these in a repeatable way?
Super stoked for a new video! Will there be any new build videos in the future? I really like the hidden compartment night stand build. Maybe a coffee table with that mid century modern style leg with template design would be cool. Thanks Katz!
Forgot to add- I’m using miters all around bc I want the waterfall edge look cascading from the top down each side (this means the corners don’t match but everything else does). There’s no way to get all over grain wrap right? Like 3D grain wrap? I mean without starting with something huge and hollowing it out of course.
Try stitching a piece of the hook side of hook and loop to the place on your shop apron where you wipe your excess glue. Microfiber cloth sticks nicely to it, easy to stick on a small square, easy to remove, easy to wash out and reuse if removed right after glue up. It'll keep your bib apron looking more used rather than "slob chic" which is an oxymoron anyway.
Seems like it would work and sounds like a fun idea. I don’t care about the appearance of my apron. I have always wiped glue and stuff on my apron. That’s what it’s for right? Keeping your clothes clean and your tools close.
@@katzmosestools The front of my bench at work has a good 1/16th-1/8th of glue across it. It’s got cardboard along the front that way I don’t have to chisel it off.
Amazing method and technique presented in such an approachable manner. As always. Don’t suppose you have plans available for that beautiful hand tool Vice and dog table? I only have a small shop, so that would be a great way to work with hand tools when a full tilt bench length Vice clamp isn’t available.
Great question. Assuming you use thin double stick tape across the whole piece or even just hold the board against the fence with the lice you’re cutting, it shouldn’t be an issue.
What size gap can be burnished over at the end before the thin edge becomes fragile, and is there any reason to add glue at that step? Can rounding it over after burnishing expose a new gap, or does the process seat the whole 45deg face?
Hey, i have a question about japanese hand sawing. If i ripcut longer distance, everything goes fine straight on the line but all the sudden i start going a bit out of the way untill it gets like a half inch off in the final result. What can i do when i see the saw is started shifted off? Forcing the blade is in my oppinion not a good strategy for longevity of the saw. Thank you
Hi Jonathan can I ask you as your a expert or master woodworker on routers I’ve just brought the de walt 604 m2 and trying to find out if it is a good one to get I haven’t got a clue what the m2 is comes with 2 4ah batteries and charger plunge base and trim base plus normal bit’s hopefully you might be able to help many many thanks steve 👨🏼🦽
Great info but very very hard to hear. The sound quality is good but volume is super super low. I have my computer volume all the way up and its nowhere near as loud or clear as it should be. With all of the details in this, im having to rewind multiple times. Can you please look into the default settings of your editor? I suspect it is set at 50%. I dont know how this wasnt caught in editing but its really low compared to every other video ive checked against (6+ videos)
Who are the four ladies in the background starting at 0:35? And then at 2:58 Bob Ross shows up?!?! How does he know these ladies? Do you know Mr. Ross personally? Were you aware that you were in the presence of such TV royalty? And why are they only in the first part of your video? Is it because they needed a refresher on continuous grain but they are already highly skilled on the other miter techniques? So many questions and I doubt we'll ever get satisfying answers #SMH
*Memorial Day Sales over at KMTools.com* - all the blades, tools and things used in this video will be on sale...
*4 Ways to Resaw a Board with and without a Bandsaw" th-cam.com/video/biAhQA5sIgk/w-d-xo.html
"4 Creative Miter Splines" th-cam.com/video/w5wybH7TXwY/w-d-xo.html
Big fan of back to basics videos and this was excellent
I really appreciate it!
I can attest that these tips are so helpful! I just finished my grandmothers urn a couple weeks ago and used many of these methods and it turned out beautiful. Sad that my best piece of work to date gets buried next week but it honoured a beautiful woman.
Thanks for making us better woodworkers!
Wow! Ive been reading Fine Woodworking for years and haven’t seen a tutorial like this yet! Great job!!
I’d add a couple of things. Choose timber carefully.
Coarse grained timber like European oak will make getting those perfect corners that much more difficult; the timbers can be hard like maple but smoother grained is definitely easier.
If you want an inset top and bottom, then you should make the dados (grooves) before glue up. It hides the bottom when finished and you can carefully calculate so that the inset top matches the height of the sides. A top of a different coloured timber does wonders in hiding any gaps between top and sides. When all complete, you slice off the top to your required depth.
If you are using thinner stock then those mitre corners are not that strong. An inset top and bottom does help a lot but when I’m making a box of material thinner than, say 10mm, I will always reinforce the corners with timber keys. Not hard at all but the cross grain effect of the Timbers really adds strength
Thanks for the education. I'm a relatively new woodworker and need to absorb a lot of wisdom and have always been in awe of yours. 😊😊
Thanks so much Gary!
Jonathan - One of the best, if not the best, instructional video I have seen. Your best effort. Thanks so much. I got a lot of good tips, that I will put to good use.
Yet another tutorial! I always enjoy these guides with detailed explanations on not just what you are doing but what the outcome should be and to correct any minor imperfections as you go. You make it so easy to follow along and learn these techniques.
This was very helpful. Thank you for the detailed video!
It's my first time trying this, cuts were no problem but came to install today and I have a 5 sided drawer this is so helpful! what a cool idea with the tape!! Thank you! Hope it goes as easy as you made it look lol
Always a pleasure to watch your method
So satisfying!
Looks like I'll be making a new sled for my table saw 😀
That sacrificial zero clearance board is just brilliant! I always wondered how to cut a miter to point on the end of a board.
As always, great explanation, great tips. Thank you Sir 🎉😁
SO many good things to draw from this video. Thanks
500k subs!!!! Huge congratz my boi
Fantastic, Jonathan! Thanks for the lesson!!! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Here’s my friend
I just made a mitered box and this video showed me some things I really wish I did for mine.
Guess I have to make another one now
hahaha you should always make more wood into smaller wood
Great video lots of info and passion 👍👍. Thanks Johnathan 👌
Great coverage! Thanks!
Great tips thanks for sharing
9:10 wow this setup looks so clean!
Dude, I thought a family was standing there watching you for a solid 2 minutes.
Thanks, great video
Awesome work Jonathan, thanks for the info! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Thank you my friend
Great job!
well damn, they came out perfect, mine never look that nice lol! Think I'll knock a quick sled together to help cut them on the tablesaw more accurately, cheers! 👍
Great video!
thanks
Thanks JKM.
Thank you
Fabulous work, as always.
Thank you so much
Top man, thank you.
I really appreciate it
Great! I would add some things.
I would use the bandsaw to resaw the pieces, because the less wood you're loosing the better the continuous grain will be (very needed if you have some wild grain).
I started using a miter shootingboard with the handplane, maybe not needed with a good tablesaw but my cheap jobsite tablesaw does not produce cuts ready for glueup.
Yes to the shooting board. Great tool. Honestly I think you loose about the same amount of material in the end. The bandsaw cut is so much rougher you have to run it through the planer quite a bit more
@@katzmosestools could be true. I have a fresh blade/band for the bandsaw only used for fine work and i plane the sawmarks by hand. I like to believe that I'm getting away with less wood lost. Maybe again a matter of a cheap tablesaw and a wobbly blade.
so much useful information!
Thanks Jack!
thank you
Cheers my friend!
Missed you man!
I prefer sharp corners on my miters because it shows that they were executed perfectly
Good video but you forgot to mention that the inside of the board becomes the outside of the box for the best match. I would like to see a TH-camr test miters with and without splines. Say, make two boxes and ship them around the world wrapped up in only paper and see what happens. After 20+ years of making boxes with and without splines I have never had a miter fail. Keep up the good work.
Loved the tutorial. I noticed you wipe glue on your apron. I assume the waxed canvas prevents it from sticking. How do you clean it up? Love this idea. I was just looking at your store and found a host of items I would like to have. Thanks for your time. 😊
I tried to like this video, but my past self already did.
Hey thanks for this! I’m currently working on a stove cover. I’m using 45 miters on all joints (to join sides together like your video…and the top). So I have to deal with 3-way miter joints. I’ve done a few practice runs and it just feels like luck more than skill when they can be forced together and look pretty good… any ideas for how to do these in a repeatable way?
Excellent as always! Have you made videos on how to do the tops and bottoms?
Yeah check out my box making videos
Nice lofi
Super stoked for a new video! Will there be any new build videos in the future? I really like the hidden compartment night stand build. Maybe a coffee table with that mid century modern style leg with template design would be cool. Thanks Katz!
Yeah I’ve got a really cool jewelry box opening mechanism I want to try
@@katzmosestools cool looking forward to it my friend. Appreciate the content and the tools. Got my dovetail jig I'm really excited to try out.
Love grain matching. Even a simple waterfall. But I have to go with your title. “Harder than they look”. Never simple. Never easy.
Good morning Jonathan
Morning Mo
Bought some stuff over $100 to get shipping. Can't wait to make some stuffs out of wood.
Forgot to add- I’m using miters all around bc I want the waterfall edge look cascading from the top down each side (this means the corners don’t match but everything else does). There’s no way to get all over grain wrap right? Like 3D grain wrap? I mean without starting with something huge and hollowing it out of course.
Thank you for making the guide. You want to undercut the 45 to 44.9, is that correct? You said 49.9, just checking.
Try stitching a piece of the hook side of hook and loop to the place on your shop apron where you wipe your excess glue. Microfiber cloth sticks nicely to it, easy to stick on a small square, easy to remove, easy to wash out and reuse if removed right after glue up. It'll keep your bib apron looking more used rather than "slob chic" which is an oxymoron anyway.
Seems like it would work and sounds like a fun idea. I don’t care about the appearance of my apron. I have always wiped glue and stuff on my apron. That’s what it’s for right? Keeping your clothes clean and your tools close.
@@katzmosestools The front of my bench at work has a good 1/16th-1/8th of glue across it. It’s got cardboard along the front that way I don’t have to chisel it off.
Amazing method and technique presented in such an approachable manner. As always.
Don’t suppose you have plans available for that beautiful hand tool Vice and dog table?
I only have a small shop, so that would be a great way to work with hand tools when a full tilt bench length Vice clamp isn’t available.
Thanks. Sure do. It’s called a Moxon vise n my site.
Absolutely beautiful! Could you link the video(s) on splines?
th-cam.com/video/w5wybH7TXwY/w-d-xo.html
Thanks! When adding a sacrificial fence for the zero-clearance kerf, are you concerned that the fence is still perfectly 90 to the blade?
Great question. Assuming you use thin double stick tape across the whole piece or even just hold the board against the fence with the lice you’re cutting, it shouldn’t be an issue.
Why no link in description?
What size gap can be burnished over at the end before the thin edge becomes fragile, and is there any reason to add glue at that step? Can rounding it over after burnishing expose a new gap, or does the process seat the whole 45deg face?
Hey, i have a question about japanese hand sawing. If i ripcut longer distance, everything goes fine straight on the line but all the sudden i start going a bit out of the way untill it gets like a half inch off in the final result. What can i do when i see the saw is started shifted off? Forcing the blade is in my oppinion not a good strategy for longevity of the saw. Thank you
Hi Jonathan can I ask you as your a expert or master woodworker on routers I’ve just brought the de walt 604 m2 and trying to find out if it is a good one to get I haven’t got a clue what the m2 is comes with 2 4ah batteries and charger plunge base and trim base plus normal bit’s hopefully you might be able to help many many thanks steve 👨🏼🦽
how hard is this to do with really thing material? like borderline veneer?
My jealousy that you have the Lie Nielsen bronze plane is overwhelming since it seems they may never be made again.
Great info but very very hard to hear. The sound quality is good but volume is super super low. I have my computer volume all the way up and its nowhere near as loud or clear as it should be. With all of the details in this, im having to rewind multiple times. Can you please look into the default settings of your editor? I suspect it is set at 50%. I dont know how this wasnt caught in editing but its really low compared to every other video ive checked against (6+ videos)
Seems fine on the 3 devices I checked and this is the only comment mentioning this. Leads me to believe it is probably something on your end 🤷♂️
What kind of surface is that on your glue up table?
Looks like red butcher / bbq paper, or maybe flooring paper.
maybe i missed it, but when you resaw, the resawn faces should become the outside faces of the box
I don’t think it matters as long as you don’t get them mixed up. Either use inside or outside faces
@@katzmosestools it's less important, but it can matter on some pieces of wood particularly flat sawn oak for example
Great video, but what the hell is that cutout of four people standing in the background?
Hahaha the golden girls… thank you for being a friend
Who are the four ladies in the background starting at 0:35? And then at 2:58 Bob Ross shows up?!?! How does he know these ladies? Do you know Mr. Ross personally? Were you aware that you were in the presence of such TV royalty? And why are they only in the first part of your video? Is it because they needed a refresher on continuous grain but they are already highly skilled on the other miter techniques? So many questions and I doubt we'll ever get satisfying answers #SMH
I know this was about miters, but I was struck by the bottomless, topless boxes.
Listen, I wasn’t trying to hit you but I didn’t see you when I threw them. My apologies
@@katzmosestools No problem. Anti-kickback PPE prevented any harm. (Just happened to be wearing it.).
Gay