Lump charcoal is the old timer version of the silica gel dessicant packs that you get in product packaging to absorb moisture in the air, adsorb gasses from the product, and reduce odor often caused by microbes decomposing wet materials. Modern activated and micronised carbon dessicants can have a much higher moisture capacity than even silica gels due to their high surface area.
Yep, you answered before i got to it.. but yes, your completely correct. I personally use sodium bicarbonate, for the same reasons, it draws in moisture, and odors. Plus it’s extremely cheap if you buy it in bulk. Ofcourse I don’t hide it, i leave small amounts out in open containers, once they become moist, its time to replace it, normally every two weeks, depending on where your sailing (humidity) I also use a protecta air purifier. Its a household version, but draws very little amps and surprisingly has lasted many years doing its job scrubbing salty air, which it was never designed to do! Whatever works 👍
We actually brought the air purifier we had in our condo on board. Don't know how many amps it draws though. Might need to look into the one you suggested.
It's one of those "intuitive" things. Charcoal filters absorb odors, right? So a bunch of charcoal thrown into the void spaces should do the trick. Yeah ... not so much. This is one of those "boating tips" that circulate around the marina, people do it, and then complain about their boat smelling like a wet fireplace.
Yeah, how could it. All it does in this application is HOLDING moisture inside that space. Somebody meant well, but certainly didn't think this through...:D
Out of curiosity have you had a chance to go over the deck with a moisture meter? If not might be worth the time to check that before moving onto finish ;-) Enjoyed the video :-)! Cheers !
Not with a meter, no, but we ended up pulling up some small 4" by 4" sections of top skin on the deck in six different places to visually get an idea of what the core looks like. It's dry everywhere but the cockpit sole from what we can tell. Really cool knowing you're watching our videos now, Andy. We love your channel!
Been watching for a while :-) Good stuff!!. If you have someone that you could borrow a meter from it would be worth while to check. I've never seen an older boat that did not have some core issues (especially with evident interior leaks). If there's ever a time to address them now is that opportunity before you spend the time and money on finishing :-/
We'll definitely source a moisture meter before we set off just so we can get an idea of wetter areas. The good news is that the way the deck was designed, means that leaky portlights, stanchions, etc don't harm the core. The deck isn't cored around the toe-rail or around the portlights, it's just solid glass there. The areas of concern for us are where the previous owner attached his own hardware to the deck in cored areas. We ended up tearing up a larger area in one of those areas. It should be in the next video. I'm pretty confident in the integrity of the core in most areas, but we'll see. The sad thing is we don't have enough time in the tent to replace any large sections of coring anymore. So if theres an issue down the line we may be doubling our painting efforts :/.
Looking good. You are doing it right and ripping it apart totally before trying to rebuild. No half-measures are worth doing. I would seriously think about re-thinking all those panels. You don't need them, and will be fighting them every time you need to work on anything in the future. One really nice thing I like about our old Hallberg-Rassy is that everything is pretty much right there in the open. There is no hull liner to hide anything or make access hard/impossible, and all the chainplates are pretty much right there where you can see and work on them once you open a cabinet. There were a few spots in the main saloon where the chainplates were buried under the cabinetry on the port size where the bookcase is, but we drilled holes in the wood to access the bolts and nuts for the chainplates. I like the industrial look, exposing the stainless steel nuts and bolts.
I've had difficulty accessing hardware as well. Boatbuilders back in the 70's & 80's never figured these boats would still be in operation 40 years later, so they probably didn't care about providing access to some of these areas. I can relate to your challenges.
I just bought a new boat and it had charcoal on it as well. Of course mine was in a 5 gallon sealed bucket in the bilge. The reason the charcoal was onboard, is there is a miniature cast iron stove to warm the cabin. You boat possibly had a small stove on it at one time. That would be an explination for the charcoal onboard. I swapped mine out for a Dickinson propane cabin heater which I love. Just a thought!
Im pretty much doing the same to my Creekmore. The previous owner didn't prim or do much sanding prior to painting it so it was a blistered up mess. But no leaks except for ports (which is on my do asap list) I pressure washed her a few days ago so the worst of the paint is gone, just need to get a orbital sander on her and smooth her out a tad then wipe with acetone and I can prime and paint. Easier said than done in the North Carolina heat right now. Looking forward to seeing how things progress with your boat. Good luck.👍
If your deck isn't wet, it would be a MIRACLE!!!! Good luck with the painting... As far as headliner goes, you could remove a good amount of excess weight and make maintenance easier by not putting plywood panels in....
We do know the cockpit is wet, unfortunately. Thanks for the well wishes. As for the plywood, since the boat is a cruiser, not a racer, we are not as concerned about the weight.
For good luck in travel and conquests the Norwegian Vikings placed a *coin* under the mast at construction of their ships (since before the attack on Lindisfarne in 793 AC).
The trim strips on the liner panels are spaced apart to maintain a small breather between the hull liner and anything stored against it, ie a sail bag or seat cushion or box of 'stuff'.
I wish I could remember which manufacturer does this, but I saw on one of the modern boat tours where their panels were made of a thin vinyl covered board held on with heavy duty Velcro for easy access behind panels. Might be worth investigating.
My boat doesn't have chain plates, just stainless u bolts that bolt through the deck. To reseal or change them you have to take the lockers out and then grind out ply paneling which has been fibreglassed in. A total nightmare and your right, why build boats like that lol ????
First off, thank goodness for the little air conditioner you've installed in the entry! I don't believe you could have done all of that interior work without it. So many little screws holding the panels up. Your fingers must be destroyed. Will you be using a special marine plywood for the replacement or just put some sort of sealant on regular ply? The vinyl will be same thickness without any insulation? Lots of questions, I know, but really getting into your project!
We'll be using quarter inch marine plywood on the sides most likely screwed in with less screws and in more intuitive places. On the interior cabin top we'll probably use velcro to make it even easier to get to the deck hardware nuts.
Also, the vinyl will be foam-backed so it'll provide a small amount of insulation along with the plywood and the air gap between the panels and the deck.
I'm sure you guys are going this way but Kiwi Grip in White is amazing! Keeps the heat out and grips the barefeet without killing you. I started using it on surfboards. Beats a slam pad anyday.
Re accesses to deck fittings , unfortunately most boat have the deck fittings , stations, cleats, handrails , wiring etc added BEFORE they put in on the deck , same with the hull, as much as possibly is installed before it the deck was added. The result is a lot of things are much harder to access 30 years later. But they were not worried about 30 years on ( with a freebie!) they had to find a way to make a boat at a price that would sell for the quality they wanted. I'm just glad to see you have panels that can be removed to expose stuff and not a one piece vinyl liner stretched across the deck before it was put on the hull meaning it's non removable ...or almost as bad a glued on liner! Interestingly I was looking at a range of mid quality trawlers from Asia where they proudly pointed out the wiring was all added after the. Boat was almost complete, so that everything could be accessed , with all the electrics in a boat these days it was a good selling point. Cheers Warren
Hey Guys - If you were wondering why "Freebie" and her sisters aren't often considered as a blue water boats, we may have the answer here :-) In addition to structural strength, reserve buoyancy, seakeeping qualities, and a long list of other factors, functionality over aesthetics seems to be a key factor in many hardcore blue water boats, ie. the ability to maintain her easily. The more difficult a boat is to inspect, the more sneaky problems develop unseen, and the harder it is to maintain in working order...Best boat I ever had was an ugly thing, but stainless steel tanks, access hatches everywhere, huge space around the engine, no cabin liner, everything easy to access and built to be taken down and rebuilt regularly. So, "Freebie" is definitely just as seaworthy as any other boat; it'll just take more work to keep her that way :-) If you're happy with that, the she'll get you anywhere you could dream of going.
Hi have you seen what is called 'twin wall' panel . It's a lightweight plastic , very durable available in various thicknesses , it would make a great rot proof replacement for plywood. You can get thin stuff at Home Depot and thicker 1/2" clear on special order. I have a commercial van with thin nonwoven fabric glued to it from the factory. Worth checking out. Cheers warren
What are you using on the angle grinder for sanding the decks? Flap disks? I am starting to pull all my deck hardware on a small Hunter 20 over in Valrico.
I remember decades ago in the Navy cleaning the Head and my Leading Petty Officer ask if I was happy. I looked at him with a WTF look and then he reply that a clean ship is a happy ship
charcoal (activated carbon) ... i think they put these for removing smell and (or) toxins ... And thanks for GREAT content . Hope you will someday sail here (Croatia) ....
Not sure why people would knock Ryobi power tools. I bought a whole set more then 15 years ago for less than US$200 and the only one that died was the much used and abused drill motor. I replaced it with another Ryobi, still going strong. I used them throughout two refits, one major and one minor. It is a problem getting replacement batteries outside the USA but these days international shipping obviates many of those problems. There are other use specific hand power tools that were considered top of the line by the people that used them on a daily basis. Skilsaws and many Milwaukee tools come to mind. Back when I was still building boats I remember we always used Milwaukee 7 & 1/2" grinders. They were the only ones that stood up to heavy daily use in f/g boat building. We tried a Makita because it was about 1/2 the price of a Milwaukee. I think it lasted two weeks before succumbing to a burnt out motor. In Makita's defense I have and used a 4" grinder of theirs. Still works fine after a hell of a lot of use. I have another now 4 & 1/2" by a different manufacturer, Black and Decker. I need it because I am in a 240v only area. There are others I could mention but I do not want to get into a super long discourse. Change of subject. It surprises me that people want to discard your kind of turnbuckles. They are chrome plated forged bronze. And if there are no obvious signs of deterioration will likely outlast the boat to which they are attached. My opinion. And while many people doing this major a refit discard turnbuckles they reuse stanchions. On my last three boats I had on boat #1 custom made 30" high stanchions and pulpits, much better and safer than 24" high stanchions. On #2 boat I had separate stanchions and bases. It was easy enough to make new 30" stanchions. On those two boats I also added SS plates to hold through bolted wooden bulwark rails ala Hal Roth on his boat Whisper. On my current boat I had the stanchions extended by 6" using 1" ID heavy duty SS tubing. Since the bow pulpit was mounted on top of the molded in bulwarks I didn't need to raise it. Since then I had a new stern rail / dingy davit / solar panel support fabricated. The old bow rail was wrecked in an anchoring mishap(not my fault). I had a new one made and replaced it at that time. May your troubles melt like lemon drops.
Wow! That is a lot of progress. Hard work from both of you. You will have a brand new boat, non smelly. I would put fresh charcoal back before you button it up. I didn't see anyone else working on their boats too. Are you the only 'crazy' ones there?
I don't think we'll add new charcoal. Hopefully proper air flow will be all we need for smells/moisture. Sometimes it seems like we are the only ones working, but there's a good handful of boats here that have some pretty dedicated owners.
Seems someone used mild steel nuts and washers in various places on the fittings like those protruding brackets and forward on those Bow pulpit brackets great time when now that you're tackling the deck sanding to renew and reseal same in place thus as you say less of that about smell of the boat around, as for the carpets lets not go there...
Those chain plates are held on by *2* bolts?! Looks like there is some room between the hull and the inner liner to add some insulation. Given you use of the AC, it might be a good idea to add it. (Carefully, as it will need to be sealed, so moisture doesn't migrate to the hull). As to charcoal and moisture, while charcoal does absorb moisture, that means that it moderates swings in moisture, which is fine. Of course, that small amount doesn't absorb any appreciable amount of water.
Yeah, scary thought. At least now we know it will be held in by four proper bolts this time. I think the idea was to have an air pocket there for insulation. Definitely not enough charcoal if that was the point.
Air pockets only have insulative value is the air is still. With a thick cross-section and the temperature differential one always sees on a boat, it isn't likely to work, and might even be detrimental.
This is your chance to check all electrical cables running inside the panels for rupture and/or corrosion. Once the panel is removed the wiring is easy and cheap to replace. Also. this is your chance to run spare electrical wires either for future connections or replacement in case of failure.Also, take this opportunity to wash everything with a mix of water and clorox using a sponge and gloves.
Randie: In traditional (wooden) ship building a coin was loosely placed on the center keel support block before the keel beam was laid. This was to "bless" the construction of the boat and many yards made a ceremony out of placing the coin. When the boat was launched the coin was retrieved and usually mounted on some sort of plaque and hung in the Yard Supervisor's Office. On sailing vessels, a coin was also placed on the main mast step before the mast went into position. This is also supposed to be a "blessing" or to bring "good fortune" as she sailed. Most production boat builders don't do this but some custom builders will, and invite the owner to witness the event. Supposedly ... every U.S. Navy ship afloat today has a U.S. minted silver dollar braised to the keel somewhere amidship, usually below the engine room. Some superstitious boat owners will JB weld a coin (any coin that seems appropriate) to the mast support bulkhead, but this seems somehow less significant than a coin trapped under the mast placed there by the builder - kind of like christening your boat with a bottle of beer. I'm not so superstitious ... knock on wood ... Jordan: (anchor) "chain pipe" There should actually be a pipe "fair lead" that passes through and sits an inch or so above the deck with a cap to close it off (sort of) from weather and wash. I can't tell if it was once there or if this was a short cut by who ever mounted the winch. The pipe prevents the chain from eating the sides of the hole. Anyway, it does my heart good to see you use a grinder to strip your decks. The average "shade tree boat-right" reaches for the palm sander and wonders why it took three weeks to do what you did in a day. Well done!
Thanks so much for the comment! I probably would have grabbed the random orbit sander if this were two years ago. We're finally learning a little bit I think, Lol.
The haul looks as if it is lined. The lining will go down to the waterline from just below the deck joint. It may not be necessary to do anything with that part that appears unattached, it looks as if it was intended to be that way. The lining could be balsa but is most likely Arex foam that will stiffen the haul and helps a bit with warmth and cooling below. The vinyl covered plywood panels are a very common method to line a boat. Mine was built that way, You could use much thinner plywood when you replace the liner. I have painted two boats and was pleased with the way they turned out, Your doing well!
When you guys step your mast back up, if you'd like, place a couple of coins underneath if you can. Choose a total or denomination that is meaningful for you two. A great nautical tradition. In the Navy, we do mast-stepping ceremonies for our new ships and place coins in a manner meaningful to the ship and namesake. You guys could get really creative! ...oh, and it's a "spill pipe!" 🤣
You guys are really putting in some hard yakka. To be doing that and finding the time to edit videos, you must not have much left to do anything else in a day. It will be worth it in the end though. Keep up the good work. 6:50 Is that like putting a bomb on an airplane because the chances of there being two on the one plane is almost unimaginable? Haha.
You guys don't muck around, impressed. But might pay to take a breath to think about the wood that is damaged. Did it become wet from leaks or condensation over the years . Sailing Uma watch?v=OwqIy1RXh8w found that most of their leaks came from screws holding down the toe-rail. Since inside panels are already off, might pay to burrow a high pressure washer to see if the toe-rail is water tight.
Charcoal is an odder absorber the best there is like you have a rotten meat for a bad freezer place charcoal beckets in it and it will get rid of the odder
Marine plywood is very $$$ ! While not truly "waterproof", you can make typical plywood (grade ACX) water and mildew resistant. Apply a mixture of 3 parts mineral spirits, 2 parts boiled linseed oil and 1 part marine, oil based, spar varnish. Obviously you need to do both sides and pay particular attention to the edges. This will dry very quickly so you can at least 3 or 4 coats in one day. Change the mix to 2-2-2 and apply a couple more coats. The last 2 coat should 1-2-3. Add mildewcide to the last coat. The last coats may take overnight to dry. I know this will take 3 or 4 days, but you will save a lot of $$$ and with the mildewcide you won't have that problem again.
Unfortunately, we are on such a time crunch and with the amount of plywood we have to replace; I think we would rather save the time right now. That is a good tip though, so thank you for sharing that information with us and any other viewers who might be interested in using this.
Charcoal is used to absorb orders. We had a new refrigerator, that lost power due to a lightening strike Knocking out the power to our vacation home. Several people told us to pack charcoal in it to absorb the rotting food odors. After about a month, the odors we gone. Insurance paid us for the fridge, but after the charcoal treatment, we used it as a beer and soft drink fridge in the basement.
On my Baba 30, the chainplate nuts were encapsulated in epoxy. To get to them, I had to cut a huge hole in a locker in the head then contort my body to swing a hammer to chisel out the epoxy. It was a bitch. Taking a boat apart is quite an adventure. I'm sure you're feeling a bit like archaeologists ;)
Hey guys I am trying to hunt up a moisture meter. There is one more thing I want you to check on the decks. As soon as I find the meter I will get in touch.
Let me know. Thanks Robert! I'd like to get an idea of where I might need to be concerned in the future. We know the cockpit sole is wet so we can use that for comparison.
I think the chain hole through to the chain locker is called the hawsepipe (ship). 🤔 hawse hole ( yacht ) i ended up and having to look it up... The difference is,,, yacht just the chain goes through it and ship the anchor shank fits into it.
The Hawsepipe leads from the deck of a ship to the sea, The spurling pipe leads from the deck under the gypsy to the chain locker. the anchor shank snubs into the hawsepipe . On top of the hawsepipe will be a securing device like a turnbuckle and wire that feeds around the chain and snubs the anchor tight and then above that is a guillotine that drops down onto the chain to belay it should anything come adrift. The spurling pipe has a fitted cover to stop seawater ingress to the chain locker.. Old sailors know this..
from the little I have seen, I am not too impressed from copper coat. I have seen, here in TH-cam, boats with other antifouling go out of the sea after years of sailing with hardly any growth, and seen copper coated boats fill with growth after a weak of soaking but, i wanted to advice you, to tie the sander to a bow aft line, so that it's wight is supported while you sand the bottom. makes the hard job a little easier
Coins, that would be the bridal dowry for the boat, under the mast. Charcoal? Someone thought it would absorb mildew odors, the way activated charcoal would? NOT a marine tradition for sure. Maybe the rat liked to bbq.
Learning the Lines , hahaha...I know the types...I tell them I'll keep the money I'm not wasting on brand x tools and buy more stuff for my boat ! ..I still have a 12v drill and the same battery it came with.. but I've up graded to the 18v line and just keep adding to it..do a project and always pay myself with a new tool !
Am loving these videos, I probably want to see the boat done just as bad as you guys do! I have two questions thought, one have you been able to make the video about how to get a boat for free yet that you mentioned a few videos back. And two what the freak is the name of the song you play at the end of each one of these videos, I love it and can't fined it. lol
Learning the Lines That's the one could not remember, you guys are doing a great job love the progress. I wish someday to take on a project like this if I can ever get out of the rat race of work
If I may give one piece of advice: You should use (the) proper tools. A lot of work you are doing is due to the lack of the appropriate tools. This also applies to "bringing/getting the charger" if you need it. Considering the work load you are facing, you simply can not afford wasting energy like that. In case if the deck i.e., a band sander would have been the much better choice. Also, I would highly recommend to pick an ecosystem of battery powered tools and stick with it. Corded tools are just not practical on a boat and if you go cordless, go with one system, so your investment in batteries is a universal investment that will benefit ALL your tools/users. Buy a set of 4 batteries and the tools you need and then you are set for the next years. My advice would be Makita. Best overall quality/cost ratio, by far the largest selection of tools within the 18V program (I think they broke the 200 recently) best battery quality and charging times - awsome stuff. But there are other options as well, Bosch (blue!) of course, DeWalt etc.. In any case, you'll have ONE charger, you can use the batteries in whatever tool you need right now, you'll practically never run out of juice and you'll be able to get whatever tool you'll need for the job for a relatively low price (since the tools themselves are not too expensive if you buy them without the battery). So once you're in, you'll have a ton of synergy. I worked like you do right know and it was so frustrating, everything took forever and I was constantly not only fighting the workpiece but the tool as well. It really is like they say: cry once while buying and enjoy your work and life from that point on or cry every time you have to get some work done. It sure is a lot of money but boy is it well spent. Plus it will save you time and material (and therefor money!) in the long run :)
Ok, here is the biggest tip about ensuring that your boat doesn't leak. When bedding hardware Do not allow the bolt going through the haul or top sides to spin. You Must tighten the bolts from inside. So, now you know.... You can do it right or learn the hard way.
Randy, two thumbs up to you babe! I love that you're right in there with the wrenches and the sanders helping out. My ex-girlfriend would have said call me when your done and it's time to go sailing. You a lucky guy, don't lose her! (she cute too!) Can't wait to see you back on the water enjoying the fruits of all this labor! Good Luck!
"Was buying moisure absorbers at Bass Pro and the guy told me to buy a bag of charcoal on the boat and cut it down the middle. Said the charcoal will absorbe any moisture in the boat. Thoughts? I am storing my boat in a cave and the boat will have a full mooring cover on it. I stored it there last year and did nothing about moisture and didn't have any issues but was worried about it all year."
Nothing wrong with using Ryobi tools guys. Sanding dust ruins the motors (which is why in my world we use air over electric tools), so why spend $$$ on Makita or Matebo when a 800w 125mm Ryobi AGS costs $30.
My thoughts on Weather: If you Prepare for it, it won't Rain. If you Don't prepare, it'll POUR Every time. For Farmers, if you Cut Hay or tobacco, it's Guaranteed to get Rained On at least Once.
So what's the plan in terms of paint layers? Epoxy, primer, Kiwigrip? I'm part way through redoing my deck in Kiwigrip (while still on the water) and am really happy with it. Covers a multitude of sins - put together an album if you're interested imgur.com/a/04EWOB5
We're planning on using Interlux Primekote epoxy primer and then Kiwigrip over that in the non-skid areas. Then Interlux Brightside on the smooth areas.
It may not make sense to you about having it all covered but trying to sell new boats with hundreds of nuts and bolts sticking out all over would be a hard sell. People that spend new boat money expect it to look good.
Nice job guys! I really like how you don't drag every part of the project out for 10 minutes to make a video. It's clear, fast, understandable and timely. Good one on calling UMA out on their life lines. Wonder what that's all about? Your first mate is amazing with tools. Where can I get a copy?! BTW...I wonder if the charcoal was to absorb order. There are rumors about putting it in a closet or other area to do so. I've never had good success with it. I prefer cedar myself. HA! PEACE OUT! Ü
Lump charcoal is the old timer version of the silica gel dessicant packs that you get in product packaging to absorb moisture in the air, adsorb gasses from the product, and reduce odor often caused by microbes decomposing wet materials. Modern activated and micronised carbon dessicants can have a much higher moisture capacity than even silica gels due to their high surface area.
That makes sense! Might have to look into the more modern version. Lol
Yep, you answered before i got to it.. but yes, your completely correct. I personally use sodium bicarbonate, for the same reasons, it draws in moisture, and odors. Plus it’s extremely cheap if you buy it in bulk. Ofcourse I don’t hide it, i leave small amounts out in open containers, once they become moist, its time to replace it, normally every two weeks, depending on where your sailing (humidity)
I also use a protecta air purifier. Its a household version, but draws very little amps and surprisingly has lasted many years doing its job scrubbing salty air, which it was never designed to do! Whatever works 👍
We actually brought the air purifier we had in our condo on board. Don't know how many amps it draws though. Might need to look into the one you suggested.
Great job guys. Don't give up. You will have a boat you will be proud to say is yours when your done. Great video.
Charcoal absorbs moisture and odors.
Al Neuman and moisture
It wasn't doing a good job then. Lol
Yeah, I added it on a subsequent edit before your post showed up.
It's one of those "intuitive" things. Charcoal filters absorb odors, right? So a bunch of charcoal thrown into the void spaces should do the trick. Yeah ... not so much. This is one of those "boating tips" that circulate around the marina, people do it, and then complain about their boat smelling like a wet fireplace.
Yeah, how could it. All it does in this application is HOLDING moisture inside that space. Somebody meant well, but certainly didn't think this through...:D
Nice work guys, cool to watch the progress! It’s going to be really cool to watch her come together!
Thank you!
Painful flashbacks of my past boat restorations. Keep up the good work.
Haha it's definitely a "love it or hate it" type of thing to refit a boat.
Out of curiosity have you had a chance to go over the deck with a moisture meter? If not might be worth the time to check that before moving onto finish ;-) Enjoyed the video :-)! Cheers !
Not with a meter, no, but we ended up pulling up some small 4" by 4" sections of top skin on the deck in six different places to visually get an idea of what the core looks like. It's dry everywhere but the cockpit sole from what we can tell. Really cool knowing you're watching our videos now, Andy. We love your channel!
Been watching for a while :-) Good stuff!!. If you have someone that you could borrow a meter from it would be worth while to check. I've never seen an older boat that did not have some core issues (especially with evident interior leaks). If there's ever a time to address them now is that opportunity before you spend the time and money on finishing :-/
Sound advice from Andy here. Better be safe than sorry.
Sailing Uma would approve strongly.
We'll definitely source a moisture meter before we set off just so we can get an idea of wetter areas. The good news is that the way the deck was designed, means that leaky portlights, stanchions, etc don't harm the core. The deck isn't cored around the toe-rail or around the portlights, it's just solid glass there. The areas of concern for us are where the previous owner attached his own hardware to the deck in cored areas. We ended up tearing up a larger area in one of those areas. It should be in the next video. I'm pretty confident in the integrity of the core in most areas, but we'll see. The sad thing is we don't have enough time in the tent to replace any large sections of coring anymore. So if theres an issue down the line we may be doubling our painting efforts :/.
Makes sense to me :-) Time is always a big issue!!
Ahh! Glorious Sanding! Welcome to the land of refitting.
-johnny
So true!
You guys have a big project. Looks like both of you are more than capable of knocking it out. Keep up the good work.
I see you are doing it all again Randy, great worker well done you...
Haha. Thank you! I assure you, Jordan does a ton too. All just depends on what we film. ;)
Looking good. You are doing it right and ripping it apart totally before trying to rebuild. No half-measures are worth doing.
I would seriously think about re-thinking all those panels. You don't need them, and will be fighting them every time you need to work on anything in the future. One really nice thing I like about our old Hallberg-Rassy is that everything is pretty much right there in the open. There is no hull liner to hide anything or make access hard/impossible, and all the chainplates are pretty much right there where you can see and work on them once you open a cabinet. There were a few spots in the main saloon where the chainplates were buried under the cabinetry on the port size where the bookcase is, but we drilled holes in the wood to access the bolts and nuts for the chainplates. I like the industrial look, exposing the stainless steel nuts and bolts.
Keep it up guys, you're doing great! Stay hydrated!
Thank you! Yes, we are having to drink tons of water.
I've had difficulty accessing hardware as well. Boatbuilders back in the 70's & 80's never figured these boats would still be in operation 40 years later, so they probably didn't care about providing access to some of these areas. I can relate to your challenges.
Holy cow its Natalie portman lol. My 13 yo son and I are watching before we paint his boat.
Lots of work to do. Great vlog guys as usual. It's great to be able to follow your project to your first sail
Thanks so much!
I just bought a new boat and it had charcoal on it as well. Of course mine was in a 5 gallon sealed bucket in the bilge. The reason the charcoal was onboard, is there is a miniature cast iron stove to warm the cabin. You boat possibly had a small stove on it at one time. That would be an explination for the charcoal onboard. I swapped mine out for a Dickinson propane cabin heater which I love. Just a thought!
Im pretty much doing the same to my Creekmore. The previous owner didn't prim or do much sanding prior to painting it so it was a blistered up mess. But no leaks except for ports (which is on my do asap list) I pressure washed her a few days ago so the worst of the paint is gone, just need to get a orbital sander on her and smooth her out a tad then wipe with acetone and I can prime and paint. Easier said than done in the North Carolina heat right now. Looking forward to seeing how things progress with your boat. Good luck.👍
If your deck isn't wet, it would be a MIRACLE!!!! Good luck with the painting... As far as headliner goes, you could remove a good amount of excess weight and make maintenance easier by not putting plywood panels in....
We do know the cockpit is wet, unfortunately. Thanks for the well wishes.
As for the plywood, since the boat is a cruiser, not a racer, we are not as concerned about the weight.
Looking good guys.
Thank you!
Yayyy great job guys 😊👍🏻
For good luck in travel and conquests the Norwegian Vikings placed a *coin* under the mast at construction of their ships (since before the attack on Lindisfarne in 793 AC).
Insulate the hull and make those paneled off areas additional storage compartments. You can use all the storage space make when going cruising.
great video guys
Good luck we are doing the same thing too only we stayed up in Apollo beach.
The trim strips on the liner panels are spaced apart to maintain a small breather between the hull liner and anything stored against it, ie a sail bag or seat cushion or box of 'stuff'.
I wish I could remember which manufacturer does this, but I saw on one of the modern boat tours where their panels were made of a thin vinyl covered board held on with heavy duty Velcro for easy access behind panels. Might be worth investigating.
amel are now doing velcro fit panels
th-cam.com/video/XW7AzYlVG6g/w-d-xo.html check at 14:35
I'll have to take a look at that!
pav That’s it! I didn’t see this video but it was definitely the Amel Super Maramu. I saw the walkthrough on Yachting World.
Charcoal absorbs moisture, when the hull sweats, condensation.
Makes sense.
keep going on man goood job 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼 watching you from kuwait 😀
My boat doesn't have chain plates, just stainless u bolts that bolt through the deck. To reseal or change them you have to take the lockers out and then grind out ply paneling which has been fibreglassed in. A total nightmare and your right, why build boats like that lol ????
First off, thank goodness for the little air conditioner you've installed in the entry! I don't believe you could have done all of that interior work without it. So many little screws holding the panels up. Your fingers must be destroyed. Will you be using a special marine plywood for the replacement or just put some sort of sealant on regular ply? The vinyl will be same thickness without any insulation? Lots of questions, I know, but really getting into your project!
We'll be using quarter inch marine plywood on the sides most likely screwed in with less screws and in more intuitive places. On the interior cabin top we'll probably use velcro to make it even easier to get to the deck hardware nuts.
Also, the vinyl will be foam-backed so it'll provide a small amount of insulation along with the plywood and the air gap between the panels and the deck.
If I ever need to take a boat apart I'm calling you guys! =)
Abandon Comfort did it!
Putting it back together is the 'fun' part!
I'm sure you guys are going this way but Kiwi Grip in White is amazing! Keeps the heat out and grips the barefeet without killing you. I started using it on surfboards. Beats a slam pad anyday.
You got it! Kiwi Grip and Brightside in white for a white on white look. We can't wait. Good idea with the surfboards!
Re accesses to deck fittings , unfortunately most boat have the deck fittings , stations, cleats, handrails , wiring etc added BEFORE they put in on the deck , same with the hull, as much as possibly is installed before it the deck was added. The result is a lot of things are much harder to access 30 years later. But they were not worried about 30 years on ( with a freebie!) they had to find a way to make a boat at a price that would sell for the quality they wanted. I'm just glad to see you have panels that can be removed to expose stuff and not a one piece vinyl liner stretched across the deck before it was put on the hull meaning it's non removable ...or almost as bad a glued on liner!
Interestingly I was looking at a range of mid quality trawlers from Asia where they proudly pointed out the wiring was all added after the. Boat was almost complete, so that everything could be accessed , with all the electrics in a boat these days it was a good selling point.
Cheers Warren
Definitely agree! It's good to know you have access to everything in case something needs fixing.
Hey Guys - If you were wondering why "Freebie" and her sisters aren't often considered as a blue water boats, we may have the answer here :-) In addition to structural strength, reserve buoyancy, seakeeping qualities, and a long list of other factors, functionality over aesthetics seems to be a key factor in many hardcore blue water boats, ie. the ability to maintain her easily. The more difficult a boat is to inspect, the more sneaky problems develop unseen, and the harder it is to maintain in working order...Best boat I ever had was an ugly thing, but stainless steel tanks, access hatches everywhere, huge space around the engine, no cabin liner, everything easy to access and built to be taken down and rebuilt regularly. So, "Freebie" is definitely just as seaworthy as any other boat; it'll just take more work to keep her that way :-) If you're happy with that, the she'll get you anywhere you could dream of going.
What are you using on the grinder to take off the non-skid?
Hi have you seen what is called 'twin wall' panel . It's a lightweight plastic , very durable available in various thicknesses , it would make a great rot proof replacement for plywood. You can get thin stuff at Home Depot and thicker 1/2" clear on special order. I have a commercial van with thin nonwoven fabric glued to it from the factory. Worth checking out. Cheers warren
Thanks for the suggestion! We will look into it.
What are you using on the angle grinder for sanding the decks? Flap disks? I am starting to pull all my deck hardware on a small Hunter 20 over in Valrico.
I remember decades ago in the Navy cleaning the Head and my Leading Petty Officer ask if I was happy. I looked at him with a WTF look and then he reply that a clean ship is a happy ship
charcoal (activated carbon) ... i think they put these for removing smell and (or) toxins ... And thanks for GREAT content . Hope you will someday sail here (Croatia) ....
Not sure why people would knock Ryobi power tools. I bought a whole set more then 15 years ago for less than US$200 and the only one that died was the much used and abused drill motor. I replaced it with another Ryobi, still going strong. I used them throughout two refits, one major and one minor. It is a problem getting replacement batteries outside the USA but these days international shipping obviates many of those problems.
There are other use specific hand power tools that were considered top of the line by the people that used them on a daily basis. Skilsaws and many Milwaukee tools come to mind. Back when I was still building boats I remember we always used Milwaukee 7 & 1/2" grinders. They were the only ones that stood up to heavy daily use in f/g boat building. We tried a Makita because it was about 1/2 the price of a Milwaukee. I think it lasted two weeks before succumbing to a burnt out motor. In Makita's defense I have and used a 4" grinder of theirs. Still works fine after a hell of a lot of use. I have another now 4 & 1/2" by a different manufacturer, Black and Decker. I need it because I am in a 240v only area. There are others I could mention but I do not want to get into a super long discourse.
Change of subject. It surprises me that people want to discard your kind of turnbuckles. They are chrome plated forged bronze. And if there are no obvious signs of deterioration will likely outlast the boat to which they are attached. My opinion.
And while many people doing this major a refit discard turnbuckles they reuse stanchions. On my last three boats I had on boat #1 custom made 30" high stanchions and pulpits, much better and safer than 24" high stanchions. On #2 boat I had separate stanchions and bases. It was easy enough to make new 30" stanchions. On those two boats I also added SS plates to hold through bolted wooden bulwark rails ala Hal Roth on his boat Whisper. On my current boat I had the stanchions extended by 6" using 1" ID heavy duty SS tubing. Since the bow pulpit was mounted on top of the molded in bulwarks I didn't need to raise it. Since then I had a new stern rail / dingy davit / solar panel support fabricated. The old bow rail was wrecked in an anchoring mishap(not my fault). I had a new one made and replaced it at that time.
May your troubles melt like lemon drops.
Wow! That is a lot of progress. Hard work from both of you. You will have a brand new boat, non smelly. I would put fresh charcoal back before you button it up. I didn't see anyone else working on their boats too. Are you the only 'crazy' ones there?
I don't think we'll add new charcoal. Hopefully proper air flow will be all we need for smells/moisture. Sometimes it seems like we are the only ones working, but there's a good handful of boats here that have some pretty dedicated owners.
charco also do absorb moist.
Charcoal absorbs moisture and kills smell. Some sailors used it for mold .
Makes sense!
Seems someone used mild steel nuts and washers in various places on the fittings like those protruding brackets and forward on those Bow pulpit brackets great time when now that you're tackling the deck sanding to renew and reseal same in place thus as you say less of that about smell of the boat around, as for the carpets lets not go there...
Those chain plates are held on by *2* bolts?!
Looks like there is some room between the hull and the inner liner to add some insulation. Given you use of the AC, it might be a good idea to add it. (Carefully, as it will need to be sealed, so moisture doesn't migrate to the hull).
As to charcoal and moisture, while charcoal does absorb moisture, that means that it moderates swings in moisture, which is fine. Of course, that small amount doesn't absorb any appreciable amount of water.
Yeah, scary thought. At least now we know it will be held in by four proper bolts this time.
I think the idea was to have an air pocket there for insulation.
Definitely not enough charcoal if that was the point.
Air pockets only have insulative value is the air is still. With a thick cross-section and the temperature differential one always sees on a boat, it isn't likely to work, and might even be detrimental.
This is your chance to check all electrical cables running inside the panels for rupture and/or corrosion. Once the panel is removed the wiring is easy and cheap to replace. Also. this is your chance to run spare electrical wires either for future connections or replacement in case of failure.Also, take this opportunity to wash everything with a mix of water and clorox using a sponge and gloves.
I agree and we will. Thanks for watching!
I removed a poo tank yesterday. I dropped it. I thought I had thoroughly rinsed it before removal. I really hadn't. Glamour.
Always use vacuum when sanding.A++
We do 90% of the time :)
Randie: In traditional (wooden) ship building a coin was loosely placed on the center keel support block before the keel beam was laid. This was to "bless" the construction of the boat and many yards made a ceremony out of placing the coin. When the boat was launched the coin was retrieved and usually mounted on some sort of plaque and hung in the Yard Supervisor's Office. On sailing vessels, a coin was also placed on the main mast step before the mast went into position. This is also supposed to be a "blessing" or to bring "good fortune" as she sailed. Most production boat builders don't do this but some custom builders will, and invite the owner to witness the event. Supposedly ... every U.S. Navy ship afloat today has a U.S. minted silver dollar braised to the keel somewhere amidship, usually below the engine room. Some superstitious boat owners will JB weld a coin (any coin that seems appropriate) to the mast support bulkhead, but this seems somehow less significant than a coin trapped under the mast placed there by the builder - kind of like christening your boat with a bottle of beer. I'm not so superstitious ... knock on wood ...
Jordan: (anchor) "chain pipe" There should actually be a pipe "fair lead" that passes through and sits an inch or so above the deck with a cap to close it off (sort of) from weather and wash. I can't tell if it was once there or if this was a short cut by who ever mounted the winch. The pipe prevents the chain from eating the sides of the hole. Anyway, it does my heart good to see you use a grinder to strip your decks. The average "shade tree boat-right" reaches for the palm sander and wonders why it took three weeks to do what you did in a day. Well done!
Thanks so much for the comment! I probably would have grabbed the random orbit sander if this were two years ago. We're finally learning a little bit I think, Lol.
The haul looks as if it is lined. The lining will go down to the waterline from just below the deck joint. It may not be necessary to do anything with that part that appears unattached, it looks as if it was intended to be that way. The lining could be balsa but is most likely Arex foam that will stiffen the haul and helps a bit with warmth and cooling below. The vinyl covered plywood panels are a very common method to line a boat. Mine was built that way, You could use much thinner plywood when you replace the liner. I have painted two boats and was pleased with the way they turned out, Your doing well!
Thanks for the feedback! I think we'll just make it easier to remove the new panels when we redo it all.
When you guys step your mast back up, if you'd like, place a couple of coins underneath if you can. Choose a total or denomination that is meaningful for you two. A great nautical tradition. In the Navy, we do mast-stepping ceremonies for our new ships and place coins in a manner meaningful to the ship and namesake. You guys could get really creative! ...oh, and it's a "spill pipe!" 🤣
Good idea! I think we'll do that.
Are you going to reline it with access points for the stanchions ( Magnets to hold them in?)?
probably not access points but the liner will be easier to remove.
You guys are really putting in some hard yakka. To be doing that and finding the time to edit videos, you must not have much left to do anything else in a day. It will be worth it in the end though. Keep up the good work.
6:50 Is that like putting a bomb on an airplane because the chances of there being two on the one plane is almost unimaginable? Haha.
It's definitely hard work but we're doing this full time now! Lol at the bomb thing.
I have been seeing a lot of comments from others who are also doing refits on their Endeavor's, is the the year all old Endeavors get their refits?
You guys don't muck around, impressed. But might pay to take a breath to think about the wood that is damaged. Did it become wet from leaks or condensation over the years . Sailing Uma watch?v=OwqIy1RXh8w found that most of their leaks came from screws holding down the toe-rail. Since inside panels are already off, might pay to burrow a high pressure washer to see if the toe-rail is water tight.
Coins are usually secured at the base of the main mast, radar mast, or included in the keel for good luck.
We'll definitely put some below the mast when we step it again.
er... they must be GOLD coins for maximum effect. 🙄 😁 Just kidding.
In the days of tall ships and schooners, they DID actually use gold coins though, so you know where you can get some. LOL
Lol might still be hard to come by
Charcoal is an odder absorber the best there is like you have a rotten meat for a bad freezer place charcoal beckets in it and it will get rid of the odder
Marine plywood is very $$$ ! While not truly "waterproof", you can make typical plywood (grade ACX) water and mildew resistant. Apply a mixture of 3 parts mineral spirits, 2 parts boiled linseed oil and 1 part marine, oil based, spar varnish. Obviously you need to do both sides and pay particular attention to the edges. This will dry very quickly so you can at least 3 or 4 coats in one day. Change the mix to 2-2-2 and apply a couple more coats. The last 2 coat should 1-2-3. Add mildewcide to the last coat. The last coats may take overnight to dry. I know this will take 3 or 4 days, but you will save a lot of $$$ and with the mildewcide you won't have that problem again.
Unfortunately, we are on such a time crunch and with the amount of plywood we have to replace; I think we would rather save the time right now. That is a good tip though, so thank you for sharing that information with us and any other viewers who might be interested in using this.
Do a one time coating of both side with 2-2-2 and mildewcide.
The charcoal may be for moisture absorption??
I think so.
Charcoal is used to absorb orders. We had a new refrigerator, that lost power due to a lightening strike
Knocking out the power to our vacation home. Several people told us to pack charcoal in it to absorb the rotting food odors. After about a month, the odors we gone. Insurance paid us for the fridge, but after the charcoal treatment, we used it as a beer and soft drink fridge in the basement.
Lol that worked out well for you then!
It's a hawse hole that the anchor rode leads through.
Those boats made to only last few years. They thought. They never figured anyone would do such major work. I'm surprised it is coming apart so easily.
They probably didn't expect people to do so much work on it; you're correct.
I had a hell of time tearing my Watkins 33 apart.
On my Baba 30, the chainplate nuts were encapsulated in epoxy. To get to them, I had to cut a huge hole in a locker in the head then contort my body to swing a hammer to chisel out the epoxy. It was a bitch.
Taking a boat apart is quite an adventure. I'm sure you're feeling a bit like archaeologists ;)
Charcoal is used to absorb the stink... ive seen people put it in a refrigerator thats been turned off...
Makes sense.
The mice put out the charcoal so you would not smell their poop.
The were considerate mice!
Hey guys I am trying to hunt up a moisture meter. There is one more thing I want you to check on the decks. As soon as I find the meter I will get in touch.
Let me know. Thanks Robert! I'd like to get an idea of where I might need to be concerned in the future. We know the cockpit sole is wet so we can use that for comparison.
Tings come apart easy mon but never seem to get back together which is harder and cost more mon. Good luck ta ya du.
Yes, we're hoping everything will go together smoothly. :/
I know the feeling guys and wish you the best. It sure is one way to get to know every inch of your boat.
That it is! Thanks. :)
I think the chain hole through to the chain locker is called the hawsepipe (ship). 🤔 hawse hole ( yacht ) i ended up and having to look it up... The difference is,,, yacht just the chain goes through it and ship the anchor shank fits into it.
We don't have a pipe so I'm going to just call it the hawsehole from now on, thanks!
Learning the Lines 👍 just be careful how you say it. 😜🤪😁
Use two part epoxy on the core in the cut-out. It lasts longer by years.
The Hawsepipe leads from the deck of a ship to the sea, The spurling pipe leads from the deck under the gypsy to the chain locker. the anchor shank snubs into the hawsepipe . On top of the hawsepipe will be a securing device like a turnbuckle and wire that feeds around the chain and snubs the anchor tight and then above that is a guillotine that drops down onto the chain to belay it should anything come adrift. The spurling pipe has a fitted cover to stop seawater ingress to the chain locker.. Old sailors know this..
Just Procrastinate sounds like you work on a ship. 👍
are u going to sand the bottom of the boat?
We are highly considering it. We have become very tempted to go with Copper Coat after helping Taylor with Somnium.
from the little I have seen, I am not too impressed from copper coat. I have seen, here in TH-cam, boats with other antifouling go out of the sea after years of sailing with hardly any growth, and seen copper coated boats fill with growth after a weak of soaking
but, i wanted to advice you, to tie the sander to a bow aft line, so that it's wight is supported while you sand the bottom. makes the hard job a little easier
You guys better work fast if your going to hookup with Old Sea Dog in panama or Ran in Hawaii, LOL, like the vids!
It was a joke really. We're keeping the lifelines.
The charcoal may be for odor control
Coins, that would be the bridal dowry for the boat, under the mast. Charcoal? Someone thought it would absorb mildew odors, the way activated charcoal would? NOT a marine tradition for sure. Maybe the rat liked to bbq.
Lmao
Why the shot at Ryobi tools ? I've used them for over 20 years and I've never had a problem with them
I like them, I just get crap every time I have one in a video from tool elitists lol.
Learning the Lines , hahaha...I know the types...I tell them I'll keep the money I'm not wasting on brand x tools and buy more stuff for my boat ! ..I still have a 12v drill and the same battery it came with.. but I've up graded to the 18v line and just keep adding to it..do a project and always pay myself with a new tool !
Tool snobs hate ryobi. They do the same job at half the price.
#Teamwork👍👍
Makes the dream work ;)
Nice !
Thanks!
Am loving these videos, I probably want to see the boat done just as bad as you guys do! I have two questions thought, one have you been able to make the video about how to get a boat for free yet that you mentioned a few videos back. And two what the freak is the name of the song you play at the end of each one of these videos, I love it and can't fined it. lol
Sebastian Forslund ~ In Our Hands
Nice job, Billy! That is the song.
Yes, here is the link for that video: th-cam.com/video/uewLkL2J0y8/w-d-xo.html
I would guess that the charcoal is to mitigate odors.
I think that must have been the idea.
Randy so looks like a famous actress ...
Lol. Normally Jordan gets the Jake Gyllenhaal comment. I, much less often, get told I look like Natalie Portman.
Learning the Lines That's the one could not remember, you guys are doing a great job love the progress. I wish someday to take on a project like this if I can ever get out of the rat race of work
Good luck! I hope you do.
Smile more, this is supposed to be fun !
Good Tube
Thanks!
If I may give one piece of advice: You should use (the) proper tools. A lot of work you are doing is due to the lack of the appropriate tools. This also applies to "bringing/getting the charger" if you need it. Considering the work load you are facing, you simply can not afford wasting energy like that. In case if the deck i.e., a band sander would have been the much better choice.
Also, I would highly recommend to pick an ecosystem of battery powered tools and stick with it. Corded tools are just not practical on a boat and if you go cordless, go with one system, so your investment in batteries is a universal investment that will benefit ALL your tools/users. Buy a set of 4 batteries and the tools you need and then you are set for the next years. My advice would be Makita. Best overall quality/cost ratio, by far the largest selection of tools within the 18V program (I think they broke the 200 recently) best battery quality and charging times - awsome stuff. But there are other options as well, Bosch (blue!) of course, DeWalt etc.. In any case, you'll have ONE charger, you can use the batteries in whatever tool you need right now, you'll practically never run out of juice and you'll be able to get whatever tool you'll need for the job for a relatively low price (since the tools themselves are not too expensive if you buy them without the battery). So once you're in, you'll have a ton of synergy.
I worked like you do right know and it was so frustrating, everything took forever and I was constantly not only fighting the workpiece but the tool as well.
It really is like they say: cry once while buying and enjoy your work and life from that point on or cry every time you have to get some work done. It sure is a lot of money but boy is it well spent. Plus it will save you time and material (and therefor money!) in the long run :)
Thanks so much for the feedback. We now have the charger and batteries up in the boat at all times.
Ok, here is the biggest tip about ensuring that your boat doesn't leak. When bedding hardware Do not allow the bolt going through the haul or top sides to spin. You Must tighten the bolts from inside. So, now you know.... You can do it right or learn the hard way.
Yes, we had picked up on this tip before, but thank you for the reminder. :)
Charcoal helps with the odors for a short time.
Makes sense.
You guys are so cute!💪
Thanks!
Randy, two thumbs up to you babe! I love that you're right in there with the wrenches and the sanders helping out. My ex-girlfriend would have said call me when your done and it's time to go sailing. You a lucky guy, don't lose her! (she cute too!) Can't wait to see you back on the water enjoying the fruits of all this labor! Good Luck!
Moisturemeter may reveal potential rot in the core if a wooden core has been used
Yes, we have a nearby viewer who thinks he may know someone with one. We're going to explore this.
"Was buying moisure absorbers at Bass Pro and the guy told me to buy a bag of charcoal on the boat and cut it down the middle. Said the charcoal will absorbe any moisture in the boat. Thoughts? I am storing my boat in a cave and the boat will have a full mooring cover on it. I stored it there last year and did nothing about moisture and didn't have any issues but was worried about it all year."
Yeah I think that was the plan here. Personally I think proper ventilation works better, like a solar vent.
Randie is awesome and should be included in any boat repair. If she cooks, I'm voting her perfect! (unless she snores....) Haha!
Haha she does cook.
Well, that's the whole package then!
Should use eletric drill to put out screw !!!!
The battery died. Lol
Probably using charcoal as a desiccant.
It didn't work that well. Lol
Charcoal eats odors from mildew.
OMG, this brings back too many bad memories. I hope I never do a complete rehab again.
Nothing wrong with using Ryobi tools guys. Sanding dust ruins the motors (which is why in my world we use air over electric tools), so why spend $$$ on Makita or Matebo when a 800w 125mm Ryobi AGS costs $30.
I totally agree, however some tool elitists don't. Lol.
My thoughts on Weather: If you Prepare for it, it won't Rain. If you Don't prepare, it'll POUR Every time. For Farmers, if you Cut Hay or tobacco, it's Guaranteed to get Rained On at least Once.
Lol seems to always be true
Charcoal kills odors.
I wish it worked better then. Lol
So what's the plan in terms of paint layers? Epoxy, primer, Kiwigrip? I'm part way through redoing my deck in Kiwigrip (while still on the water) and am really happy with it. Covers a multitude of sins - put together an album if you're interested imgur.com/a/04EWOB5
We're planning on using Interlux Primekote epoxy primer and then Kiwigrip over that in the non-skid areas. Then Interlux Brightside on the smooth areas.
It may not make sense to you about having it all covered but trying to sell new boats with hundreds of nuts and bolts sticking out all over would be a hard sell. People that spend new boat money expect it to look good.
Rinse and repeat for the next 3 months.
Lol. That's what it is feeling like.
Nice job guys! I really like how you don't drag every part of the project out for 10 minutes to make a video. It's clear, fast, understandable and timely. Good one on calling UMA out on their life lines. Wonder what that's all about? Your first mate is amazing with tools. Where can I get a copy?! BTW...I wonder if the charcoal was to absorb order. There are rumors about putting it in a closet or other area to do so. I've never had good success with it. I prefer cedar myself. HA! PEACE OUT! Ü
Thanks so much for the kind words. We try to keep it interesting, but still paint a realistic picture.
Love to see her.. I'm very near you and am working on the portlights of my Endeavour, as well.. Let me know.. ;-)
so charcoal wards off fire but not rat crap lol
Apparently not. Lol
All about the body work check out Sail Life.
Keep up the good work. Like you're TH-cam channel.
We love Sail Life! We watch Mads every Sunday.
Thank you!