Hi Everyone- I’m the person that gave the bronze port lights- after having them for years in the garage I’m over joyed to see them put to use. They were given freely and I’m good with whatever is done with the extras. Keep up the great work!
I rehabbed an old Morgan out island about seven years ago. Took off the old square textured vinyl liner and replaced it with a vinyl from Redrum used for seat cushions. Glued it on horizontal and vertical surfaces with common contact cement and it looked great. It had enough bulk to cover patterns and defects in the fiberglass laminate. Sold the boat and checked with the new owner about three years later and it still looked great with no adhesion problems. Cheap and easy to do too. I also put a headliner in a catamaran by using something called "shower surround." It is only about 1/8" thick, is flexible, comes in 4 x 8 sheets, cost less than $30 per sheet, has a textured surface, and can be cut with shears, shaped with a hair dryer, and glued in place with Liquid Nails. I rehabbed the interior of an old trawler with it. It was so bright and easy to keep clean. There is a lot of quality you can do on the cheap using plastic sheets and lumber from Lowes.
Just discovered your channel and loving binge watching. I have ABI portholes on my Pearson 424. They are not designed to be through-bolted but screwed into the structure. With that, I really like what you did. It's a much stronger and more sound way of attaching them. Mine are stainless and I still need to redo six of the ten installed. I'm following your lead for the remaining portholes!
I am not sure how much of a structural member this is, but for future reference ... If you are replacing a structural bulk head, start with material that is 1/2 of the thickness of the finished panel. Cut out 2 of them and then cut 1/3 and 2/3 so that when you glue them back together there is a lot of over lap ! Multiple coats of mineral spirits/boiled linseed oil/marine (oil based) varnish or exterior grade (oil based primer), thinned 3/2/1 will add a lot of moisture/rot resistance. The fir two or three coats will dry quickly (hours) and can be re-coated. Flip the ratios (1/2/3) around for the final coat before you apply your finish.
Jack Patteeuw, thanks for the tips! This bulkhead wasnt tabbed at all though so I'm guessing not very structural. I definitely would have done something like that if it were more obvious the bulkhead was structural.
The above is a great method. But it could be a time saver to just take the AC out and use the full companionway. As to structure, I'd always assume that interior structure is, or could be, adding to the strength of the entire boat. I've always tried to make it better as I rebuild something.
Wow! I love your new ports. I re-bedded several of the Becksons on our E32 this spring. I should’ve just replaced them with New Found Metals ports. On a positive note, we’ve had a chance to do some actual sailing this year and the boat performs very well. All your work will be rewarded when you get her back in the water and under sail. Best of luck with all your projects.
I agree with your choice ! Those port lights look AWESOME ! The extra bolts might look a bit odd, but it is better than leaving empty holes. What is holding the PVC board to the fiberglass ? The portlight are probably sufficient ! Another trick for attaching PVC to fiberglass is 3M VHB tape. It is double sided and extremely strong and moisture resistant. Not cheap. Another tool to add to your tool box it a Roloc disc mandrel. Roloc is a 3M brand but there are many less expensive version. They have quick change discs, usually made out of something like Scotch-Brite. The mandrels come in different sizes. Chuck the mandrel into a drill and you can clean the patina off those lights very quickly. Then switch to a buffing pad and compound and the will look like new !
Jordan, hey. Just remembered old trick of the "my mechanics" channel. Good way to get rid of patina without scrubbing the surface is to prepare a paste 1/3 vinegar, 1/3 salt, 1/3 wheat dough. Apply to bronze hatch and cover with the plastic foil over to reduce drying out, leave for 1 day. I'd love to see you try this trick you'd be surprised how good it works.
Looks good guys. I didn't know you can buy that material at Home Depot I am going to look this weekend. Very cool looks easy to cut and mill with a router
For the outside of the portlight you could make a 2.5" inch wide Teak bezel trim, just to make the portlights look like an integrated feature of the boat.
Hey I leave this coming weekend to go to Anna Maria for a week for vacation I wouldn't mind coming down and helping you guys out doing work like that the stuff I enjoy that's a vacation in itself
Advice I wish i was given. Caulk or pad all your intersections. Like bulkheads to the fiberglass bulkhead. The boat is going to flex and jolt etc etc. Try to install with the squeaks in the back of your mind and you will save yourselves huge super annoying issues later. Trust me. Caulk caulk caulk… Love your progress!! Keep it up!
I would definitely put a bigger holding tank in her, many marinas are requiring a 15 gallon per person tank requirement in order to stay in them. Yes you are planning on cruising, but there will be a time when you want to do that, and not having that tank can really get in your way.
Renegade Show, I've never seen this requirement but I'll look into it for sure. I wouldn't want to be turned away from a marina because our tank is too small.
Specifically the 15 gallon thing per person is to my understanding part of the clean marina program that many marina's are getting onboard with now, by getting certified as a clean marina I believe they get things like tax breaks and discounts on their insurance, so you can expect to see more of this in the future. I know it is a big deal right now on the west coast, in time I won't be surprised if it becomes law. If I had my boat as far apart as you do, I would see about building a 45 gallon tank, so as that if you ever wind up with crew, or having a child in the future you are not up against a wall on the holding tank capacity. As well when you decide to sell this boat, having that tank situation sorted, even if it has never been used will add a great deal of value to the future buyer because they will not have to mess with it.
And...if this isn’t your ‘Forever Boat’ when you step up, down, or out and it’s time to sell, the absence of a holding tank may not be perceived as a “feature” by potential buyers. Granted, you are refitting the boat for your needs and preferences, but just something to consider. I’d keep both the tank and the thru-hull fitting, and put it in with a y valve to choose where the effluent goes. Ofc if you Freebie it again...well then...for free, the future owner will deal with it. 🤓👍
You are making a big mistake going with a small holding tank. As others pointed out many marinas won’t let you in without a minimum size. I think the 15 is correct. This is something you really need to rethink imho.
Also, I think it's the right idea to travel the world while you are still young. I have been to 25 countries now some more than once and wish I had started out when I was your age. But hey it's never too late. I'm still enjoying myself hanging out in Vietnam as I speak now
I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your thumbnails and titles. Having videos which are numbered, have relevant titles, and relevant thumbnails without sexual pandering is awesome. I know that thumbnails can be a big factor in viewship on youtube and I appreciate the you run this channel with. Thanks for all the great content!!
10 Bronze Portlights (actually Port Holes if they open, the glass itself is what's considered the "lite") ... anyway ... have you done the math on this. I sold a 27 footer for less than what those 10 portlights would cost. *This is an incredible donation, Ms Holt* ! I hope you guys send her a free T-shirt and a framed and signed photo of the boat when she's finished. No construction tips this time! Y'all did a good job on these. A year ago I would have mentioned my preference for wood interiors over plastic, but after living on this boat with white vinyl from chest height on up on the deck house interior, giving the interior a much brighter and airy look, I think you made a good choice. It will be interesting to see how you will trim and finish this material off. I couldn't live with bronze fixtures. I polish my aluminum and stainless once a month, imagine what I would do with brass or bronze!!!!!!!
It was definitely an incredible donation! We want to have some wood, but like you said white is much brighter when you're living aboard. We actually love the patina look so I apologize if it bothers you, but we're going to let them go green :)
On a supply boat I ran in the Gulf Oil Fields, one of my deckhands chipped 20 years work of paint off the deck light fixtures. We discovered the fixtures were brass. I gave him the options; repaint them or polish them once a month. He repainted them. One of my off duty therapies was to polish the 12 inch brass bell on the front of the pilot house. I just like the way brass looks when it's all bright and shiny, and in my own mind polishing bright work justifies why I'm not doing something more important =D
Don't listen to the "pay it forward crowd". The port lights were given to you to help you out financially. By selling them, you will accomplish what the "giver" had in mind.
That was our thought and certainly if it were the other way around I would want my contribution to be able to be as useful to the person I was giving it to as possible. We have received a lot of help in the form of advice, stuff for the boat, or even financially via patreon though, so we do feel like we owe our amazing audience something. We just have to figure out what it is!
You can roll veneer on in sections with contact cement and razor blade/straight edge the overlapped seams for a perfect fit between pieces...easy peasy. You can also glue on very thin vertical bead board planks for a marine look or glue on any style of prefinished bathroom panel from a big box store on the cheap.
The pvc board looks awesome. Do you gave a brand name for the material you used? The bronze portholes are amazing! Perfect materials for a saltwater environment. Stay cool and hydrate!
Nice work. I would do the same with that bulkhead. Why pay extra when you can glue veneer on yourself. Or you could paint it and get Banksy to do a mural. I'll be out on Lake Ontario fishing for Lake Trout on Sunday. Have fun with your live broadcast. I have buffed brass with a buffing wheel on a grinder with polishing compound, makes it look new.
I like the PVC paneling I'd forgotten about that , I'm using some in my boat. Just a work of caution it's not flame retardant so it gives of toxic hydrochloric acid when it burns(400f). But you have much bigger problems if that happens. So not for engine compartment linings! .. yeh me too the biggest holding tank you can fit and then add a discharge pump for offshore...... cheers great progress. Warren.
Nope. Galvanic corrosion is only a problem with metals touching that are not similar in nobility. Stainless steel and bronze are actually very similar in nobility so it's not a problem. They're commonly used together in a lot of applications.
Recommend you use bronze bolts in your ABI port's, dissimilar metals in contact with saltwater will cause problems for the least noble metals. You might want to look at Frans Mattie From a Bare Hull and Nigal Carlters new book about building new interiors in a bare hull. Like your videos.
Oh forgot to mention you can also use vinyl woodgrain glue-on or peel and stick floor planks for a extremely durable waterproof low budget finish. Lowes had this stuff for around $1 / sqft
I think you'd be better off making that bulkhead out of two sheets of 3/8", then you can stagger the join in the middle. The way it is that vertical joint is a weak point. Assuming you are going to tab it in with fiberglass/epoxy?
To stop the butyl tape from oozing out, first line the edge with simple foam based weather stripping, the do the butyl tape putty inside of that. ie like making a little channel to contain the butyl.
Hello to all sea pirates😁😁😁.. Out there ..!! Great job guys looking awesome 😎...I know its lots hardworks,love and care with beautiful...lots of spaces inside which great...Maybe one day I will sail with seas like you guys ... great adventures decovering the unknowing places ...I want sail the south pole one day .. A little precaution for safety is good as well.. Just imagine the boat goes upside down will be any leakage of water through any holes or these windows..just in case of worst scenario which can happen..please try to care of safety issues a lots work and built it more stronger possible.. OK that was a message to you this week guys..Safety at sea comes always first...cheers...😉😉..peace n love ..to all pirates of seas..
I have to be honest. I think you should have paid it forward too. In regards to the port lights. You got some for free and are now selling them. Bad juju. On another note. The bronze ones look great. And that was some really smart use of the pvc. Can’t wait to see next weeks episode.
That was the plan if we were able to use all of the old ABI ports, but since we could only use 6 we needed to spend around 1200 of our own cash to buy four more newfound metals ports so that we could have all bronze. The sale of the becksons helps offset that cash. We can always pay it forward in other ways.
I think sharing your story & lessons learned is an excellent way of paying it forward for those of us desiring & contemplating a live aboard cruising life. Much appreciation here. Thanks
Is "patina-ing" a bad thing. Is it just cosmetic? Is it oxidizing of bronze like the Statue of Liberty? Does it protect the bronze from oxidizing further? Great vid as usual. Always enjoy the diy u guys do.
What happens is the outer layer oxidizes, but that oxidation prevents the bronze from further oxidation. So the patina is actually a protective layer that protects the rest of the bronze. Some people polish bronze periodically because they like the look of the bronze, which is fine, but we like the look of the patina so we're going to let the ports go green.
Great jut curious. My 46' has two 60 gallon water (gray and drinking water) and a 40 gallon fuel but those areas are a lot bigger where the tanks are, and the engine is a Volvo Penta MD series. The new boat is a lot bigger so planning all that out.
That is the only thing I would install. Yes, it is more of a hassle on a day-to-day basis, but the installation is simple and best of all, NO PLUMBING !
Definitely would use a "Slot Joiner" aka "Biscuit Joiner" aka "Plate joiner" to join those two pieces of plywood back together. You can rent one at Home Depot for about $20 a day if you don't wan tot buy one.
Fantastic work! That PVC looks fantastic. However, please, please, please do some research on the environmental factors with this stuff. By environment, I mean the environment inside your boat. Heated PVC can give off extremely toxic fumes (some of the most toxic of all plastics). God forbid, if there's a fire in the boat while you are asleep, the fumes will kill you before there's any smoke. There are alternatives. See if you can find sheets of LDPE or PET. Look up 'resin codes' (those numbers within the recycling symbol)
You guys are the bee's knees love it want more of it can't wait to see the finished product if you ever need a guy to do good grunt work hit me up I'd love to help PS way better in a lot of the channels have been watching I know you guys got to get some income somewhere wish I had something to throw you but Grant work is my specialty
In case I don't get to ask this question Sunday..... Why didn't you use PVC board to make your new bulkhead? That PVC is so versatile. Don't forget that if you want to do things like add a shelf to it you can use PVC cement instead of metal fasteners. Cheaper and absolutely no rust stains. IF you're afraid your going to put heavy stuff on the shelf you can even put a dado in the PVC board to make the connection even stronger. I've used the stuff to make outdoor raised plant beds with great success. I really am wondering why a company isn't making whole boats out of the stuff.
So it seems like it's actually pretty easy to scratch and it's definitely not as stiff/strong as a plywood board of the same thickness so that's why. For this application the PVC board worked perfectly though since it's not structural at all and it's only a cabin liner.
I know I'm late and hindsight is 20-20, but for future reference to others who will hopefully watch. Anytime you use plywood on a boat, marine-grade or other, always, I repeat, always seal the edges of the plywood with epoxy or some sort of waterproof membrane but not paint unless it's epoxy. Otherwise, you end up with a wick if moisture gets anywhere near it. The other surfaces can be finished in a gloss marine varnish or colored epoxy paints just so it's waterproof, and it will last the life of your boat. Next, and again, I know I'm late, but this is for others watching this video. This is not a structural bulkhead; it's a partition panel separating the aft wall of the head from the main salon (I call it a cabin). If it were a structural bulkhead, the manufacturer would have correctly tabbed it to the hull. That being said, I strongly advise against doing so in this case. Think of access and if you need it out of the way for head maintenance in the future, oops. At the most, it might help stiffen the cabin roof, but if that were the case, it would span the interior of the cabin. Myself, I would have brought the partition all the way across the cabin, laminate it in beautiful wood, and have an arched doorway separating the "stateroom" from the galley and mess area. Randi, think of how cool that sweet little inclination indicator (was it brass?) you're noticed in the 1.5-year revisit video would look on the bulkhead over the arch. I have some excellent tips and tricks on tabbing structural bulkheads along with the engineering involved but will add this in the appropriate video. The holes in the portlights and their respective trim rings can be filled, cheaply, at any prop shop and they can buff and polish them while they're at it. You will need to disassemble, clean, and replace gaskets, but you need to do that anyhow. Now you can drill any bolt pattern you need or desire. I would have the trim rings punched with the right sized square holes and use bronze carriage bolts. That way you don't need a backup wrench. Simply have a removable access panel on the inside for easy access to the bolts. Here's a tip for your through-hull or superstructure fittings to prevent water rot to the cores. Drill the holes oversized. Refill with epoxy and let cure. Now, re-drill your holes to the proper size, and if the hardware should leak in the future, and it will, you won't risk core rot and face expensive, time-consuming repairs when replacing them. I love the video series Jordan & Randi, keep them coming, but your dream sailboat tour is the best! It's unique, and folks get to see affordable fixer-uppers and unusual boats, rigs, and interior layouts that will significantly help in their future boat decisions. Most of your regular used boat for sale videos are not much different from used car or truck videos. They're all nothing but typical yacht brokers touting their wares, claiming little old ladies sailed the boat back and forth to church on Sundays when you know it's a worn-out hole in the water for which to through your money.
Ok this is killing me. I'm sure it was covered in a previous post or question but I work 12 hour days and usually watch on my TV so I don't see the comments so please forgive me if it's been asked before but what on earth is the name and artist of the song played as the video fades away?
I don't know about the comment below of 15 gal min. per person, News to me and we visit many marina's during the year in the Great Lakes. Maybe a coastal thing? We have a 12 gal holding tank in our 27 ft and it is way too small for two people but nothing bigger will fit. Yes the pump out port should be on the bottom. You also need a vented loop between the head and the tank. If you don't do that, when you heel the only thing keeping the contents of the tank coming back into the head is the joker valve and that is not enough. Don't ask how I know. You seem to have the same problem I have in that there is no room for a vented loop. I just installed a check valve in the line just before the tank inlet. Mine is a Jabco brand but there may be others as well. Don't know how well it will work yet because the tank is mostly empty and we haven't sailed in anything that has us heeled over all that much since I installed the valve. Fingers crossed.
Where are you guys at I live here in FL and would love to come and drop off a few things that might help you and if you ever need anything let me know I can even build you a website at no charge it's what I do for a living well for the next 3 years till I set sail too
You guys should check out the TH-cam channel Sail Life, on various types of methods of restoration and refitting. As I’ve said before this is going to be your home. Do you honestly think fitting plastic/ Formica is the best. Use marine ply, shape and fit then fibreglass and epoxy finally paint. In the long run it will be stronger, and if done properly won’t leek
Paint it, venering requires a pressure plate with a lot of pressuring so painting makes a lot easier option. Have a education as carpenter so venering is difficult from experience.
You can roll veneer on in sections with contact cement and razor blade the overlapped seams for a perfect fit between pieces...easy peasy. You can also glue on very thin vertical bead board planks for a marine look or glue on any style of prefinished bathroom panel from a big box store on the cheap.
the only problem with using contact cement instead of glue is, the veneer won't become saturated with the cement and thus not be protected from moisture and later delamination like the ordinary pressure glueing with heat. i suppose you could soak the veneer in epoxy resin but any break in the surface still runs the risk of delaminating.
A full length vertical butt joint in the bulkhead? Sorry, but even epoxied, that will never be one structural piece. A partition, sure, but not anywhere near as strong as a single piece, or a layered construction.
Sciolist, True. I may pull some frequently asked questions to answer from commenters in the past. I doubt we'll get as many viewers as he did though so I'm thinking we may be able to keep up but if not no big deal. I'll just ask that people repeat themselves if I didnt see the question the first time.
I saw you guys (learning the lines) on Mads livestream... What Sciolist is referring to, was their live stream to everyone, well everyone who is sub'd. The two they had for Patreon were fine, at least what I saw of them...
hi guys, hey I don't think You are required to pay it forward at this time. now you are young starting out in life and you need to think about your future. Hey, you can pay it forward in 20 or 30 years after you have accumulated a garage full of junk. Haha
We definitely want to pay it forward in other ways sooner than that, we're just trying to figure out how. Certainly though in our future we are going to continue to pay things forward.
Just my two cents but I hope you at least checked with the person who gave you the port lights you don't need. Maybe they would have preferred to give them away again. I think the bronze ones are rocking, but they're a 'desire' not a 'need' so it seems like that should be on you guys. But if the donator doesn't care then go for it. But you're adults, do what you want.
Hi Everyone- I’m the person that gave the bronze port lights- after having them for years in the garage I’m over joyed to see them put to use. They were given freely and I’m good with whatever is done with the extras.
Keep up the great work!
Thanks so much Caroline! As you know we're very grateful and excited to give the ports a new life!
Thanks for helping them out they look pretty damn good
They look amazing. They're like Popeye windows.
Caroline, it's good folks like you that keep the world going around, kudos, and two thumbs up!
I rehabbed an old Morgan out island about seven years ago. Took off the old square textured vinyl liner and replaced it with a vinyl from Redrum used for seat cushions. Glued it on horizontal and vertical surfaces with common contact cement and it looked great. It had enough bulk to cover patterns and defects in the fiberglass laminate. Sold the boat and checked with the new owner about three years later and it still looked great with no adhesion problems. Cheap and easy to do too. I also put a headliner in a catamaran by using something called "shower surround." It is only about 1/8" thick, is flexible, comes in 4 x 8 sheets, cost less than $30 per sheet, has a textured surface, and can be cut with shears, shaped with a hair dryer, and glued in place with Liquid Nails. I rehabbed the interior of an old trawler with it. It was so bright and easy to keep clean. There is a lot of quality you can do on the cheap using plastic sheets and lumber from Lowes.
Just discovered your channel and loving binge watching. I have ABI portholes on my Pearson 424. They are not designed to be through-bolted but screwed into the structure. With that, I really like what you did. It's a much stronger and more sound way of attaching them. Mine are stainless and I still need to redo six of the ten installed. I'm following your lead for the remaining portholes!
I am not sure how much of a structural member this is, but for future reference ... If you are replacing a structural bulk head, start with material that is 1/2 of the thickness of the finished panel. Cut out 2 of them and then cut 1/3 and 2/3 so that when you glue them back together there is a lot of over lap !
Multiple coats of mineral spirits/boiled linseed oil/marine (oil based) varnish or exterior grade (oil based primer), thinned 3/2/1 will add a lot of moisture/rot resistance. The fir two or three coats will dry quickly (hours) and can be re-coated. Flip the ratios (1/2/3) around for the final coat before you apply your finish.
Jack Patteeuw, thanks for the tips! This bulkhead wasnt tabbed at all though so I'm guessing not very structural. I definitely would have done something like that if it were more obvious the bulkhead was structural.
Smart idea. I hope I never have to use it.
The above is a great method. But it could be a time saver to just take the AC out and use the full companionway. As to structure, I'd always assume that interior structure is, or could be, adding to the strength of the entire boat. I've always tried to make it better as I rebuild something.
Hey it’s looking a lot better I’m glad to see you’re Getting the jobs done can’t wait to see the final finish keep at it
Thanks so much!
Just finished all 50!
Can't wait to see your next one!
Thank you!
Learning the Lines looking forward to your videos from off shore
Diggin' on the bronze port lights. Great job you guys are doing. Looks really nice.
Thanks so much!
Beautiful port lights! They will outlast Frebbie so you can use them on your next boat! Looking forward to your live stream. Have great week.
Haha and they're bedding with butyl so we can actually remove them easily!
Wow! I love your new ports. I re-bedded several of the Becksons on our E32 this spring. I should’ve just replaced them with New Found Metals ports. On a positive note, we’ve had a chance to do some actual sailing this year and the boat performs very well. All your work will be rewarded when you get her back in the water and under sail. Best of luck with all your projects.
We like the newfound metals ports but they're sure pricey!
Rods shirt! A sure sign of a reef geek! Nicely done I have a yellow one!! Love the videos btw I’m bingeing them
I agree with your choice ! Those port lights look AWESOME ! The extra bolts might look a bit odd, but it is better than leaving empty holes.
What is holding the PVC board to the fiberglass ? The portlight are probably sufficient ! Another trick for attaching PVC to fiberglass is 3M VHB tape. It is double sided and extremely strong and moisture resistant. Not cheap.
Another tool to add to your tool box it a Roloc disc mandrel. Roloc is a 3M brand but there are many less expensive version. They have quick change discs, usually made out of something like Scotch-Brite. The mandrels come in different sizes. Chuck the mandrel into a drill and you can clean the patina off those lights very quickly. Then switch to a buffing pad and compound and the will look like new !
Just the ports are holding the panel on. Thanks for the tool recommendation, we'll look into it!
18 screws per light, that panel is not going anywhere !
Jordan, hey. Just remembered old trick of the "my mechanics" channel. Good way to get rid of patina without scrubbing the surface is to prepare a paste 1/3 vinegar, 1/3 salt, 1/3 wheat dough. Apply to bronze hatch and cover with the plastic foil over to reduce drying out, leave for 1 day.
I'd love to see you try this trick you'd be surprised how good it works.
Looks good guys. I didn't know you can buy that material at Home Depot I am going to look this weekend. Very cool looks easy to cut and mill with a router
It's very easy to cut and work with! It does scratch more easily than I thought though.
Learning the Lines huh I wouldn't think it scrratchs. Very cool and didn't know HD had it.
For the outside of the portlight you could make a 2.5" inch wide Teak bezel trim, just to make the portlights look like an integrated feature of the boat.
It would sure look cool but we're happy with the way they turned out and we try to stay away from exterior wood on boats :)
Nice SLV tee! One of my other favorite sailing channels.
They're certainly an inspiration.
Hey I leave this coming weekend to go to Anna Maria for a week for vacation I wouldn't mind coming down and helping you guys out doing work like that the stuff I enjoy that's a vacation in itself
You guys do nice work.
Advice I wish i was given. Caulk or pad all your intersections. Like bulkheads to the fiberglass bulkhead. The boat is going to flex and jolt etc etc. Try to install with the squeaks in the back of your mind and you will save yourselves huge super annoying issues later. Trust me. Caulk caulk caulk… Love your progress!! Keep it up!
That's true! Nothing squeaks on the hard so we've got to think about that.
I would definitely put a bigger holding tank in her, many marinas are requiring a 15 gallon per person tank requirement in order to stay in them.
Yes you are planning on cruising, but there will be a time when you want to do that, and not having that tank can really get in your way.
Renegade Show, I've never seen this requirement but I'll look into it for sure. I wouldn't want to be turned away from a marina because our tank is too small.
Specifically the 15 gallon thing per person is to my understanding part of the clean marina program that many marina's are getting onboard with now, by getting certified as a clean marina I believe they get things like tax breaks and discounts on their insurance, so you can expect to see more of this in the future.
I know it is a big deal right now on the west coast, in time I won't be surprised if it becomes law.
If I had my boat as far apart as you do, I would see about building a 45 gallon tank, so as that if you ever wind up with crew, or having a child in the future you are not up against a wall on the holding tank capacity.
As well when you decide to sell this boat, having that tank situation sorted, even if it has never been used will add a great deal of value to the future buyer because they will not have to mess with it.
and that dont sound like much if youre eating mexican :) joking kids, just joking.
And...if this isn’t your ‘Forever Boat’ when you step up, down, or out and it’s time to sell, the absence of a holding tank may not be perceived as a “feature” by potential buyers. Granted, you are refitting the boat for your needs and preferences, but just something to consider. I’d keep both the tank and the thru-hull fitting, and put it in with a y valve to choose where the effluent goes. Ofc if you Freebie it again...well then...for free, the future owner will deal with it. 🤓👍
You are making a big mistake going with a small holding tank. As others pointed out many marinas won’t let you in without a minimum size. I think the 15 is correct. This is something you really need to rethink imho.
Love that 1) you're wearing a Sailing La Vagabonde t-shirt and 2) you also watch Mads too!
Thanks so much! And thanks so much for becoming a patron! :)
Also, I think it's the right idea to travel the world while you are still young. I have been to 25 countries now some more than once and wish I had started out when I was your age. But hey it's never too late. I'm still enjoying myself hanging out in Vietnam as I speak now
That's amazing. You've definitely accomplished something great though!
love the la vagabonde cap
It's comfy!
awesome video guys
I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your thumbnails and titles. Having videos which are numbered, have relevant titles, and relevant thumbnails without sexual pandering is awesome. I know that thumbnails can be a big factor in viewship on youtube and I appreciate the you run this channel with. Thanks for all the great content!!
Thanks so much for the feedback!
looks GREAT!
Thank you!
Damn, I'm in Cocoa Beach, it seems that Tampa is the place to be!
Bummer!! I'll be on the road with our camper Sunday afternoon. Are you going to post the live?
rcorn8114, Yep the recording will be posted after the stream. If someone else is driving you can always watch on mobile!
10 Bronze Portlights (actually Port Holes if they open, the glass itself is what's considered the "lite") ... anyway ... have you done the math on this. I sold a 27 footer for less than what those 10 portlights would cost. *This is an incredible donation, Ms Holt* ! I hope you guys send her a free T-shirt and a framed and signed photo of the boat when she's finished. No construction tips this time! Y'all did a good job on these. A year ago I would have mentioned my preference for wood interiors over plastic, but after living on this boat with white vinyl from chest height on up on the deck house interior, giving the interior a much brighter and airy look, I think you made a good choice. It will be interesting to see how you will trim and finish this material off. I couldn't live with bronze fixtures. I polish my aluminum and stainless once a month, imagine what I would do with brass or bronze!!!!!!!
It was definitely an incredible donation! We want to have some wood, but like you said white is much brighter when you're living aboard. We actually love the patina look so I apologize if it bothers you, but we're going to let them go green :)
On a supply boat I ran in the Gulf Oil Fields, one of my deckhands chipped 20 years work of paint off the deck light fixtures. We discovered the fixtures were brass. I gave him the options; repaint them or polish them once a month. He repainted them. One of my off duty therapies was to polish the 12 inch brass bell on the front of the pilot house. I just like the way brass looks when it's all bright and shiny, and in my own mind polishing bright work justifies why I'm not doing something more important =D
Don't listen to the "pay it forward crowd". The port lights were given to you to help you out financially. By selling them, you will accomplish what the "giver" had in mind.
That was our thought and certainly if it were the other way around I would want my contribution to be able to be as useful to the person I was giving it to as possible. We have received a lot of help in the form of advice, stuff for the boat, or even financially via patreon though, so we do feel like we owe our amazing audience something. We just have to figure out what it is!
Great use of PVC lumber, you can also glue it with PVC pipe glue..just make sure you fit it up square and glue !... Cures in 24 hrs..
Didn't think of that!
You can roll veneer on in sections with contact cement and razor blade/straight edge the overlapped seams for a perfect fit between pieces...easy peasy. You can also glue on very thin vertical bead board planks for a marine look or glue on any style of prefinished bathroom panel from a big box store on the cheap.
johnnybarbar , for a bead board look, there's PVC stuff out there to order also.
The PVC is actually held on by the portlights themselves. It's directly against the glass so no issue rotting anything.
Down the rabbit hole is definitely the feeling.
The pvc board looks awesome. Do you gave a brand name for the material you used? The bronze portholes are amazing! Perfect materials for a saltwater environment. Stay cool and hydrate!
Not sure on the brand. We just found it at Home Depot in the lumber department.
Should have put biscuit joints in the bulk head.
We don't have a biscuit joiner.
Learning the Lines sorry i should have considered that.i would've lent you mine but i live in England.
steven ruddy Lol yeah that would be hard to lend
New portlights seem to add lot more light
Definitely.
Great work! What's the running total cost of the free boat?
thumbs up guys.......keep it up.....
Thanks!
Nice work. I would do the same with that bulkhead. Why pay extra when you can glue veneer on yourself. Or you could paint it and get Banksy to do a mural. I'll be out on Lake Ontario fishing for Lake Trout on Sunday. Have fun with your live broadcast. I have buffed brass with a buffing wheel on a grinder with polishing compound, makes it look new.
Thanks for the feedback! You should watch on your phone! Lol
Liked, and I'm already subscribed.
Brasso those bronze portlights!
We need to!
I'm an ex-marine, and a builder for 25 years. I was thinking the same damn thing. Brasso those suckers before you even install them! Haha
Then coat them with either a spray on acrylic lacquer or rub on microcrystalline wax.
Former Scout/Reconnaissance here... Ruined me for life. Can't stand seeing tarnished brass/bronze. Makes my eyelid twitch.
Actually, I think about four coats of polyurethane would be better than a lacquer you can find directions online
I like the PVC paneling I'd forgotten about that , I'm using some in my boat. Just a work of caution it's not flame retardant so it gives of toxic hydrochloric acid when it burns(400f). But you have much bigger problems if that happens. So not for engine compartment linings! .. yeh me too the biggest holding tank you can fit and then add a discharge pump for offshore...... cheers great progress. Warren.
Makes sense. It's definitely not going in the engine compartment!
doing a great job well done
Thank you!
Lookin great , enjoy your adventures ! Do yall share on sosailize ?
Aren't you concerned abot galvanic corrosion with the stainless bolts and bronze portlights?
Nope. Galvanic corrosion is only a problem with metals touching that are not similar in nobility. Stainless steel and bronze are actually very similar in nobility so it's not a problem. They're commonly used together in a lot of applications.
Recommend you use bronze bolts in your ABI port's, dissimilar metals in contact with saltwater will cause problems for the least noble metals. You might want to look at Frans Mattie From a Bare Hull and Nigal Carlters new book about building new interiors in a bare hull. Like your videos.
Oh forgot to mention you can also use vinyl woodgrain glue-on or peel and stick floor planks for a extremely durable waterproof low budget finish. Lowes had this stuff for around $1 / sqft
We're definitely going to weigh all the options.
Wow, I didn't know PCV made boards...cool. I noticed when you put the bulkhead in you left a gap all around it., Why?
That's how the original bulkhead was fitted. It's also easier to get in with that gap. We're going to fill it with thickened epoxy.
In your travels you should swing into Apollo beach marina and see what we are doing. Ideas could be exchanged.
S/V Outcasts Whatre you guys doing? Were going to head south with Freebie when shes done but were in that area often by land.
The same stuff your doing. A complete refit!
The white board, how is it attached to the fiberglass?
The ports hold it up!
I think you'd be better off making that bulkhead out of two sheets of 3/8", then you can stagger the join in the middle. The way it is that vertical joint is a weak point. Assuming you are going to tab it in with fiberglass/epoxy?
They weren't tabbed originally so we're on the fence.
To stop the butyl tape from oozing out, first line the edge with simple foam based weather stripping, the do the butyl tape putty inside of that. ie like making a little channel to contain the butyl.
Good idea, the newfound metals ports call for doing this but I didn't know why. It makes sense.
Hello to all sea pirates😁😁😁.. Out there ..!! Great job guys looking awesome 😎...I know its lots hardworks,love and care with beautiful...lots of spaces inside which great...Maybe one day I will sail with seas like you guys ... great adventures decovering the unknowing places ...I want sail the south pole one day ..
A little precaution for safety is good as well..
Just imagine the boat goes upside down will be any leakage of water through any holes or these windows..just in case of worst scenario which can happen..please try to care of safety issues a lots work and built it more stronger possible..
OK that was a message to you this week guys..Safety at sea comes always first...cheers...😉😉..peace n love ..to all pirates of seas..
Thanks so much for the message! I hope you're able to get out and sail one day as well.
I have to be honest. I think you should have paid it forward too. In regards to the port lights. You got some for free and are now selling them. Bad juju.
On another note. The bronze ones look great. And that was some really smart use of the pvc.
Can’t wait to see next weeks episode.
That was the plan if we were able to use all of the old ABI ports, but since we could only use 6 we needed to spend around 1200 of our own cash to buy four more newfound metals ports so that we could have all bronze. The sale of the becksons helps offset that cash. We can always pay it forward in other ways.
I think sharing your story & lessons learned is an excellent way of paying it forward for those of us desiring & contemplating a live aboard cruising life. Much appreciation here. Thanks
barnett25 does the person who gave you the portlights in good will know/agree that you should sell them?
Domingo L. Isasi z
Catching up! 👍👍
Is "patina-ing" a bad thing. Is it just cosmetic? Is it oxidizing of bronze like the Statue of Liberty? Does it protect the bronze from oxidizing further?
Great vid as usual. Always enjoy the diy u guys do.
What happens is the outer layer oxidizes, but that oxidation prevents the bronze from further oxidation. So the patina is actually a protective layer that protects the rest of the bronze. Some people polish bronze periodically because they like the look of the bronze, which is fine, but we like the look of the patina so we're going to let the ports go green.
How big are your water and fuel tanks?
Water is 65 gallon and fuel is 20 gallon.
Great jut curious. My 46' has two 60 gallon water (gray and drinking water) and a 40 gallon fuel but those areas are a lot bigger where the tanks are, and the engine is a Volvo Penta MD series. The new boat is a lot bigger so planning all that out.
Consider a composting head. No tank, hoses, thru hulls, clogs and smells!
If we were in an RV or doing the great loop I'd seriously consider it. Not for the type of cruising we want to do.
That is the only thing I would install. Yes, it is more of a hassle on a day-to-day basis, but the installation is simple and best of all, NO PLUMBING !
Unfortunately nowadays a lot of Marina's say no to composting heads.
Just back from my boat! Going to make myself a coctail and enjoy this kid and wife free!!!!
Haha thanks for watching!
Its only a 15gal mine comes in the top and the bottom on the bow
Does it look the same as ours or different?
Learning the Lines replied via fb msgr
Definitely would use a "Slot Joiner" aka "Biscuit Joiner" aka "Plate joiner" to join those two pieces of plywood back together. You can rent one at Home Depot for about $20 a day if you don't wan tot buy one.
Makes sense. I think this will be OK though.
An easy way to clean brass and copper use liquid toilet bowl cleaner, it works great. Use cloves
Thanks for the tip!
Fantastic work!
That PVC looks fantastic. However, please, please, please do some research on the environmental factors with this stuff. By environment, I mean the environment inside your boat. Heated PVC can give off extremely toxic fumes (some of the most toxic of all plastics). God forbid, if there's a fire in the boat while you are asleep, the fumes will kill you before there's any smoke.
There are alternatives. See if you can find sheets of LDPE or PET. Look up 'resin codes' (those numbers within the recycling symbol)
You guys are the bee's knees love it want more of it can't wait to see the finished product if you ever need a guy to do good grunt work hit me up I'd love to help PS way better in a lot of the channels have been watching I know you guys got to get some income somewhere wish I had something to throw you but Grant work is my specialty
Want to come sand our hull? Lol joking. I wouldn't wish that on anyone. Thanks for the kind words!
Learning the Lines the more people, the faster work goes. Why not?)
In case I don't get to ask this question Sunday..... Why didn't you use PVC board to make your new bulkhead? That PVC is so versatile. Don't forget that if you want to do things like add a shelf to it you can use PVC cement instead of metal fasteners. Cheaper and absolutely no rust stains. IF you're afraid your going to put heavy stuff on the shelf you can even put a dado in the PVC board to make the connection even stronger. I've used the stuff to make outdoor raised plant beds with great success. I really am wondering why a company isn't making whole boats out of the stuff.
So it seems like it's actually pretty easy to scratch and it's definitely not as stiff/strong as a plywood board of the same thickness so that's why. For this application the PVC board worked perfectly though since it's not structural at all and it's only a cabin liner.
I know I'm late and hindsight is 20-20, but for future reference to others who will hopefully watch. Anytime you use plywood on a boat, marine-grade or other, always, I repeat, always seal the edges of the plywood with epoxy or some sort of waterproof membrane but not paint unless it's epoxy. Otherwise, you end up with a wick if moisture gets anywhere near it. The other surfaces can be finished in a gloss marine varnish or colored epoxy paints just so it's waterproof, and it will last the life of your boat.
Next, and again, I know I'm late, but this is for others watching this video. This is not a structural bulkhead; it's a partition panel separating the aft wall of the head from the main salon (I call it a cabin). If it were a structural bulkhead, the manufacturer would have correctly tabbed it to the hull. That being said, I strongly advise against doing so in this case. Think of access and if you need it out of the way for head maintenance in the future, oops. At the most, it might help stiffen the cabin roof, but if that were the case, it would span the interior of the cabin. Myself, I would have brought the partition all the way across the cabin, laminate it in beautiful wood, and have an arched doorway separating the "stateroom" from the galley and mess area. Randi, think of how cool that sweet little inclination indicator (was it brass?) you're noticed in the 1.5-year revisit video would look on the bulkhead over the arch. I have some excellent tips and tricks on tabbing structural bulkheads along with the engineering involved but will add this in the appropriate video.
The holes in the portlights and their respective trim rings can be filled, cheaply, at any prop shop and they can buff and polish them while they're at it. You will need to disassemble, clean, and replace gaskets, but you need to do that anyhow. Now you can drill any bolt pattern you need or desire. I would have the trim rings punched with the right sized square holes and use bronze carriage bolts. That way you don't need a backup wrench. Simply have a removable access panel on the inside for easy access to the bolts.
Here's a tip for your through-hull or superstructure fittings to prevent water rot to the cores. Drill the holes oversized. Refill with epoxy and let cure. Now, re-drill your holes to the proper size, and if the hardware should leak in the future, and it will, you won't risk core rot and face expensive, time-consuming repairs when replacing them.
I love the video series Jordan & Randi, keep them coming, but your dream sailboat tour is the best! It's unique, and folks get to see affordable fixer-uppers and unusual boats, rigs, and interior layouts that will significantly help in their future boat decisions. Most of your regular used boat for sale videos are not much different from used car or truck videos. They're all nothing but typical yacht brokers touting their wares, claiming little old ladies sailed the boat back and forth to church on Sundays when you know it's a worn-out hole in the water for which to through your money.
I miss your deconstruction videos
You'll like when we rip out the galley then :)
Ok this is killing me. I'm sure it was covered in a previous post or question but I work 12 hour days and usually watch on my TV so I don't see the comments so please forgive me if it's been asked before but what on earth is the name and artist of the song played as the video fades away?
I don't know about the comment below of 15 gal min. per person, News to me and we visit many marina's during the year in the Great Lakes. Maybe a coastal thing? We have a 12 gal holding tank in our 27 ft and it is way too small for two people but nothing bigger will fit. Yes the pump out port should be on the bottom. You also need a vented loop between the head and the tank. If you don't do that, when you heel the only thing keeping the contents of the tank coming back into the head is the joker valve and that is not enough. Don't ask how I know. You seem to have the same problem I have in that there is no room for a vented loop. I just installed a check valve in the line just before the tank inlet. Mine is a Jabco brand but there may be others as well. Don't know how well it will work yet because the tank is mostly empty and we haven't sailed in anything that has us heeled over all that much since I installed the valve. Fingers crossed.
yeah thats 100% there mate. Its 15 gal per person here.
I plan on trying to install a vented loop somehow there for this reason. We'll see. We want to go electric with the next head.
Where are you guys at I live here in FL and would love to come and drop off a few things that might help you and if you ever need anything let me know I can even build you a website at no charge it's what I do for a living well for the next 3 years till I set sail too
We're in Port Charlotte.
You guys should check out the TH-cam channel Sail Life, on various types of methods of restoration and refitting. As I’ve said before this is going to be your home. Do you honestly think fitting plastic/ Formica is the best. Use marine ply, shape and fit then fibreglass and epoxy finally paint.
In the long run it will be stronger, and if done properly won’t leek
Awesome video! If you guys need a backup chartplotter or as your main check out DIGINAV Nautical Charts. Just Google it.
Will do, thanks!
It's cool cause if your 12v goes down you can have that on a laptop.
Brasso guys.
Paint it, venering requires a pressure plate with a lot of pressuring so painting makes a lot easier option. Have a education as carpenter so venering is difficult from experience.
You can roll veneer on in sections with contact cement and razor blade the overlapped seams for a perfect fit between pieces...easy peasy. You can also glue on very thin vertical bead board planks for a marine look or glue on any style of prefinished bathroom panel from a big box store on the cheap.
I'm so confused, so is it hard or easy? Lol
the only problem with using contact cement instead of glue is, the veneer won't become saturated with the cement and thus not be protected from moisture and later delamination like the ordinary pressure glueing with heat. i suppose you could soak the veneer in epoxy resin but any break in the surface still runs the risk of delaminating.
after all we are talking about a high moisture environment here.
Maybe Epoxy resin might be the way to go, then. I've definitely got research to do here.
A full length vertical butt joint in the bulkhead? Sorry, but even epoxied, that will never be one structural piece. A partition, sure, but not anywhere near as strong as a single piece, or a layered construction.
They're not very structural. They may give the deck a little support but that's it. None of the original bulkheads are tabbed anywhere.
Oooooh, Jordan, trim that strap on your goggles before using anymore power tools please!
Better ask questions in advance, livestream Q&A are awfully messy, Mads livestream for example.
What happened with his? Seemed to go well from what I saw but I only watched the beginning and the end.
Learning the Lines He seemed to be overwhelmed by number of questions, like he didn't see questions you asked during livestream.
Sciolist, True. I may pull some frequently asked questions to answer from commenters in the past. I doubt we'll get as many viewers as he did though so I'm thinking we may be able to keep up but if not no big deal. I'll just ask that people repeat themselves if I didnt see the question the first time.
I saw you guys (learning the lines) on Mads livestream... What Sciolist is referring to, was their live stream to everyone, well everyone who is sub'd. The two they had for Patreon were fine, at least what I saw of them...
breezyjr the Patreon one was good.
Get a tripod y'all
hi guys, hey I don't think You are required to pay it forward at this time. now you are young starting out in life and you need to think about your future. Hey, you can pay it forward in 20 or 30 years after you have accumulated a garage full of junk. Haha
We definitely want to pay it forward in other ways sooner than that, we're just trying to figure out how. Certainly though in our future we are going to continue to pay things forward.
Jordan, stop smiling so much and start taking this refit seriously !
Dang, I'll try to frown more!
word of warning, if you fit a bulkhead while the boat is on the hard it will be a different shape in the water and may need some adjustment
Very true!
Just my two cents but I hope you at least checked with the person who gave you the port lights you don't need. Maybe they would have preferred to give them away again.
I think the bronze ones are rocking, but they're a 'desire' not a 'need' so it seems like that should be on you guys. But if the donator doesn't care then go for it. But you're adults, do what you want.
Yes Caroline was fine with us doing this. I told her what the plan was beforehand. She wanted to give us them whether we could use them or not.
Cool. I think that's very classy of you!
Film that Beautiful girl more