you just proved that filler lasts, as those 1/4'ers you did 20+ years ago and there's no serious issues, and with no worse rust under therethan when you applied it either! Nowdays with epoxy sealer and better fillers and converters it'll last for your grandkids (if you don't store it in the paddock again) I got my Nissan started this week, first time since April. Very happy about that. Milestones are so important for keeping motivated.
Durante anos assisti os videos dele antes de pintar um vw golf com este processo de fosfatizacao retirei algumas corrosão de uma longarina ficou limpa sem nenhuma ferrugem , mas poucos vão aqui aplicar a técnica certa que ele ensina .
Hey mate, nice job and no one is above body filler it's needed sometimes, and working with a 49 year old car they were never perfect from the manufacturer.
Something iv found helpfull over the years and allways do now is using JB weld to fill the rust pits (after removing all rust). The jb weld is non porous and is epoxy based. i recently had to do some repairs to my front wing due to damage. Now 12 years ago i had to do some rust repairs on this wing and when stripping it this time none of the rust had returned under the JB weld.
@@paddyladdd9395 Yes. When you have pitted metal from rust (not rusted through) JB weld works well to fill the pits as its a metal impregnated epoxy and much stronger/harder than normal filler
I have had success with a rust converter called Feronite. The only place that I have been able to buy the product is from Mitre 10 outlets. If Feronite sits on the shelf for too long you have to dig out the product residue from the bottom of the plastic bottle and mix it with the rest of the liquid in the bottle. Works very well. Body Filler is Talcum Powder and Polyester Resin mixed with MEKP as a catalyst. It is brittle if applied too thick. I have seen an entire side of a car with crows feet because the filler was applied too thick and left overnight without a primer over the top of the repair. Rust formed underneath the Polyester filler. If too much hardener is added, it can overheat the resin and make the filler weaker and may detach from the panel. The steel needs to be roughened with sandpaper for the Polyester Filler to stick to the metal. As they say, there is a Panel Beater born in every can of Bog. If you want a structural filler on fibreglass, use 3M micro glass spheres with Polyester resin and MEKP. It pours like a gas out of the bag so wearing a mask is critical. The glass beads can cut through a single layer plastic bag as it will with lung tissue. Lead filler does not suffer from the same issue as far as I know and was used on early hot rods, hence the term Lead Sled.
No issues with using the rust converter and then sanding off but the optimum method is as you described. Apply the rust treatment/converter and keep the panel wet by continuing to paint on the rust converter for 20mins then wash off with water and dry the panel. The metal panel will now have an etched finish with a rust resistant coating that will enhance the bonding of primer.
Love to see different ways of doin things....doing this for 25 yrs and every shop I've worked at, does things their own way and for the most part, they always yield the same results(looks good, last at least 10 yrs, and the customer gets to actually enjoy the car)😎
Do u need to use something like the rust converter on small rust spots I just started fixing my old car and it’s been outside in one spot for the last 8 years and what I thought was going to be a easy couple of little surface rust repair turned in to my hole top of the boot back to bare metal because there was tiny pin head sized rust spots
i buy the generic eraser wheel for removing stickers and emblem glue because here in the us the generic ones come bit that u put in a drill and then screw the eraser wheel on it just so happens to be the same thread size as DA pad so i put a hook&loop 6" DA pad on and put 80 grit DA paper on it and it does a really nice job of stripping all the mud and paint off and ur left with clean metal an a 80grit scratch for ur epoxy primer it just saves a little time to achieve the results u want
The old Torana is looking a bit sorry for itself at the moment Gunny but it's got to look worse to look better and mate you look like you are really enjoying yourself which is what it's all about, if it isn't fun the what's the point of doing it but you are doing a fabulous job in your garage. New gun day yesterday mate, picked up a brand new Sata 100B with the 1.8 for 2K high build just want to get a 1.4 tip set for it to use WoW (sealer) though it, my old FLG5 is a bit tired so it was time to upgrade👌👍John UK.
does the rust bust after hosing it off protect the metal from the water? i’m always nervous doing it because obviously you’re using water on bare metal haha
what i do with that tiny pits of rust is i use a rust removing jelly it can be applied on horizontal surfaces itll completely remove rust with in hours its not cheap but better to remove the rust then convert it there's a liquid form to id soak hand towels in it and lay that on the metal it completely removes rust by chelates nothing acidic so friendly on the environment and you don't need gloves to use it evapo rust do a good job
the white night stuff works its good so youll find the same thing will happen with the bondall product its because it cant get down deep enough to convert all the rust thats why removal by chemical or wire brush down to clean metal will stop rust coming back im doing the same thing as you at the moment on a xy panelvan its great fun a wholesome hobby
Been watching your videos for a long time mate, cheers from the states! Thanks for all the good info. Could you please provide a link of where to get the 16 grit stripping discs?
Here is one for you... Backing soda is used to neutralize acid. Also, if you use enough backing soda in water, metals dont rust (they use it in rust removal electrolysis). My question is, how does primer and paint react to backing soda? If we rinsed down the panel with baking soda water, and then wiped the panel down, would that be safe?
@@TheGunmanChannel - Good to hear from ya, thanks for the answer. FYI, I got the FLG5 after watching you and got her sent across the pond, cant wait to use it when it gets warmer, lol. Keep it rocking!
Hey Gunny, all the best for the new year man and keep up the vids. Just wanting your opinion / advice for my own Torana resto. Epoxy vs etch.... which is better and why? And also I'm planning to paint my Torana in Papaya orange, which would be the best colour undercoat to promote the best possible depth to the top coat? Cheers man,
Epoxy primer because you can get it on and safely leave it, it's non porous so water won't penetrate, it has a better film thickness than etch, so you can carry out the filler repairs on top of it without going straight through, I'd recommend a light grey or white primer for that colour, I'm painting my Torana orange too, that's why I chose white. Hope that helps mate.
@@darylgoodgame7292 I like PPG primers, their solvent basecoat is ok, but their clears are trash!! I chose a ford colour called orange fury, I know Brockie would be turning in his grave lol but it's such a good colour and it will suit the car I reckon.
@@TheGunmanChannel if i use muriatic acid or naval gel to kill and destroy the rust...i will neutralize the acid with distilled water and vinegar and touch of baking soda....the the chlorine in reg tap water will cause it to flash rust The vinegar is a very mild acid that will etch the steell.. To prevent flash rust i used distilled water with a small amount of phosphoric acid. Untill i can expoxy prime it
The Gunman, got a question I will be starting back up on a restoration that is likely going to take years to complete. I'am looking at stripping the engine bay very shortly and then spraying the expoxy primer. How long can the epoxy primer sit as it is, or do you have a certain period before you must paint over it. BTW my project is the same vintage as your Torana, its a 1975 TD Cortina.
It's pretty safe to leave for a long time, just make sure you sand it properly before painting, and prime any metal cut through spots from your prep. But epoxy primer isn't porous so it's pretty safe to leave long term, that's my knowledge at least, potentially read up the data sheet on the product you are using just to be sure
So the liquid rust converter you are using can it be purchased in the US at you local paint store or on line, I'm asking because I didn't catch the name ?
Yo gunny why dont you do a video with raw clean steel left outside then sand it back and use the white knight vs the other converters in your shed and see how much the samples rust back up? fuck even throw in wd40 for a laugh jks.
Is the epoxy primer that you’re using a high build epoxy primer? I noticed it doesn’t look shiny like what I have used in the past. That stuff is a freaking pain to deal with.
All the epoxy primers generally serve the same purpose. - high adhesion, DTM, and water resistant. Most epoxy H/B primers can be adjusted with epoxy thinner to suit your needs, example 25% for priming, 0-20% for H/B . Every company has their own chemists that play with this and provide TDS. Hope that helps a bit.
Imagine subscribing to a channel and then being triggered by what an awesome spray painter chooses to do on his own project car hehe. Even more triggering because his methods seem to be working just fine. Happy New year 2023.
I worked in the restoration of historic vehicles for many years. When I see what you do, I associate it with a slaughterhouse, not a workshop. I have always had great respect for you for what you did. I think you'd better go back to Gunman from years ago.
For real dude, this is his car. At the end of the day, he’s gonna do what he wants to do. And I’ll bet you in the end it’s gonna turn out great and probably last a long time as well. And if it doesn’t, that’s on him and he has to deal with it. It’s not like he’s doing a restoration for a paying customer.
Straight up , gunny is the nan !!!! …. Real world 🌍….GREAT to see you enjoying your hobby time on your car bru !!💪🏻
you just proved that filler lasts, as those 1/4'ers you did 20+ years ago and there's no serious issues, and with no worse rust under therethan when you applied it either! Nowdays with epoxy sealer and better fillers and converters it'll last for your grandkids (if you don't store it in the paddock again)
I got my Nissan started this week, first time since April. Very happy about that. Milestones are so important for keeping motivated.
Durante anos assisti os videos dele antes de pintar um vw golf com este processo de fosfatizacao retirei algumas corrosão de uma longarina ficou limpa sem nenhuma ferrugem , mas poucos vão aqui aplicar a técnica certa que ele ensina .
Hey mate, nice job and no one is above body filler it's needed sometimes, and working with a 49 year old car they were never perfect from the manufacturer.
Something iv found helpfull over the years and allways do now is using JB weld to fill the rust pits (after removing all rust). The jb weld is non porous and is epoxy based. i recently had to do some repairs to my front wing due to damage. Now 12 years ago i had to do some rust repairs on this wing and when stripping it this time none of the rust had returned under the JB weld.
Jb weld over the bare metal ?
@@paddyladdd9395 Yes. When you have pitted metal from rust (not rusted through) JB weld works well to fill the pits as its a metal impregnated epoxy and much stronger/harder than normal filler
I have had success with a rust converter called Feronite. The only place that I have been able to buy the product is from Mitre 10 outlets. If Feronite sits on the shelf for too long you have to dig out the product residue from the bottom of the plastic bottle and mix it with the rest of the liquid in the bottle. Works very well. Body Filler is Talcum Powder and Polyester Resin mixed with MEKP as a catalyst. It is brittle if applied too thick. I have seen an entire side of a car with crows feet because the filler was applied too thick and left overnight without a primer over the top of the repair. Rust formed underneath the Polyester filler. If too much hardener is added, it can overheat the resin and make the filler weaker and may detach from the panel. The steel needs to be roughened with sandpaper for the Polyester Filler to stick to the metal. As they say, there is a Panel Beater born in every can of Bog. If you want a structural filler on fibreglass, use 3M micro glass spheres with Polyester resin and MEKP. It pours like a gas out of the bag so wearing a mask is critical. The glass beads can cut through a single layer plastic bag as it will with lung tissue. Lead filler does not suffer from the same issue as far as I know and was used on early hot rods, hence the term Lead Sled.
Lead wiping was used on custom cars in the 40s and 50s. These were the days before plastic filler. It's a real black art and few practice it now.
As I watch you stripping the panels down, I just think you make it look so easy, wish I'd used 16grit now, did mine with 80grit as the most coarse
I didn't even know they made 16 grit lol, but it's awesome and only $5 a disc, and 2 discs did the whole car. Beats $3k sandblasting 😁
@@TheGunmanChannel 2 that's crazy lol, think I used a full pack or 2 of 80s, and that was with paint striper as well
No issues with using the rust converter and then sanding off but the optimum method is as you described. Apply the rust treatment/converter and keep the panel wet by continuing to paint on the rust converter for 20mins then wash off with water and dry the panel. The metal panel will now have an etched finish with a rust resistant coating that will enhance the bonding of primer.
My way works too, it eats into the rust
Love to see different ways of doin things....doing this for 25 yrs and every shop I've worked at, does things their own way and for the most part, they always yield the same results(looks good, last at least 10 yrs, and the customer gets to actually enjoy the car)😎
Do u need to use something like the rust converter on small rust spots I just started fixing my old car and it’s been outside in one spot for the last 8 years and what I thought was going to be a easy couple of little surface rust repair turned in to my hole top of the boot back to bare metal because there was tiny pin head sized rust spots
Vinegar water helps me. Great vids as always
You can use 3:1 water to vinegar ….. for surface rust ….
Get 20 inch fans and put a furnace filter in front of them on the suction side
Loving this build series m8 excellent work
I've been using the bilt and hamber three stage system. It's pretty amazing stuff but not cheap.
I always use baking soda and distilled water to neutralize the acid, nice work
How long after application of the rust converter is this applied?
i had deja vu, you described the rust removal treatment almost word for word when you said, its done its job, from an earlier torana video
It souds counterlogic to wash acid of with water... water will get in pours and boost the oxidation of metal. Cant u remove it wit alcohol?
i buy the generic eraser wheel for removing stickers and emblem glue because here in the us the generic ones come bit that u put in a drill and then screw the eraser wheel on it just so happens to be the same thread size as DA pad so i put a hook&loop 6" DA pad on and put 80 grit DA paper on it and it does a really nice job of stripping all the mud and paint off and ur left with clean metal an a 80grit scratch for ur epoxy primer it just saves a little time to achieve the results u want
Nice one - keep em coming. Rebuilding my torana as well, so your videos are very relevant to me.
The old Torana is looking a bit sorry for itself at the moment Gunny but it's got to look worse to look better and mate you look like you are really enjoying yourself which is what it's all about, if it isn't fun the what's the point of doing it but you are doing a fabulous job in your garage.
New gun day yesterday mate, picked up a brand new Sata 100B with the 1.8 for 2K high build just want to get a 1.4 tip set for it to use WoW (sealer) though it, my old FLG5 is a bit tired so it was time to upgrade👌👍John UK.
Love it
does the rust bust after hosing it off protect the metal from the water? i’m always nervous doing it because obviously you’re using water on bare metal haha
No it does not, last rinsedown should be thinner
I dont even know why you have to explain yourself.. Happy New Year.. Cheers
Why not get fence paint with galvanize, zinc, and primer on top of that
what i do with that tiny pits of rust is i use a rust removing jelly it can be applied on horizontal surfaces itll completely remove rust with in hours its not cheap but better to remove the rust then convert it there's a liquid form to id soak hand towels in it and lay that on the metal it completely removes rust by chelates nothing acidic so friendly on the environment and you don't need gloves to use it evapo rust do a good job
the white night stuff works its good so youll find the same thing will happen with the bondall product its because it cant get down deep enough to convert all the rust thats why removal by chemical or wire brush down to clean metal will stop rust coming back im doing the same thing as you at the moment on a xy panelvan its great fun a wholesome hobby
Been watching your videos for a long time mate, cheers from the states! Thanks for all the good info. Could you please provide a link of where to get the 16 grit stripping discs?
Here is one for you... Backing soda is used to neutralize acid. Also, if you use enough backing soda in water, metals dont rust (they use it in rust removal electrolysis). My question is, how does primer and paint react to backing soda? If we rinsed down the panel with baking soda water, and then wiped the panel down, would that be safe?
That's a question I couldn't answer sorry.
@@TheGunmanChannel - Good to hear from ya, thanks for the answer. FYI, I got the FLG5 after watching you and got her sent across the pond, cant wait to use it when it gets warmer, lol. Keep it rocking!
is it allowed to work in your garage
Hey Gunny, all the best for the new year man and keep up the vids.
Just wanting your opinion / advice for my own Torana resto.
Epoxy vs etch.... which is better and why?
And also I'm planning to paint my Torana in Papaya orange, which would be the best colour undercoat to promote the best possible depth to the top coat?
Cheers man,
Epoxy primer because you can get it on and safely leave it, it's non porous so water won't penetrate, it has a better film thickness than etch, so you can carry out the filler repairs on top of it without going straight through, I'd recommend a light grey or white primer for that colour, I'm painting my Torana orange too, that's why I chose white. Hope that helps mate.
@@TheGunmanChannel really appreciate the response mate, what colour orange you planning on laying down and how do you rate ppg as a paint brand?
@@darylgoodgame7292 I like PPG primers, their solvent basecoat is ok, but their clears are trash!! I chose a ford colour called orange fury, I know Brockie would be turning in his grave lol but it's such a good colour and it will suit the car I reckon.
When cleaning the panel..are you using distilled water and vinegar to neutralize the phosphoric acide. Or wipring down with isopropyl?
Isopropyl alcohol, I didn't realise you could use vinegar.
@@TheGunmanChannel if i use muriatic acid or naval gel to kill and destroy the rust...i will neutralize the acid with distilled water and vinegar and touch of baking soda....the the chlorine in reg tap water will cause it to flash rust
The vinegar is a very mild acid that will etch the steell..
To prevent flash rust i used distilled water with a small amount of phosphoric acid. Untill i can expoxy prime it
The Gunman, got a question I will be starting back up on a restoration that is likely going to take years to complete. I'am looking at stripping the engine bay very shortly and then spraying the expoxy primer. How long can the epoxy primer sit as it is, or do you have a certain period before you must paint over it. BTW my project is the same vintage as your Torana, its a 1975 TD Cortina.
It's pretty safe to leave for a long time, just make sure you sand it properly before painting, and prime any metal cut through spots from your prep. But epoxy primer isn't porous so it's pretty safe to leave long term, that's my knowledge at least, potentially read up the data sheet on the product you are using just to be sure
So the liquid rust converter you are using can it be purchased in the US at you local paint store or on line, I'm asking because I didn't catch the name ?
Yo gunny why dont you do a video with raw clean steel left outside then sand it back and use the white knight vs the other converters in your shed and see how much the samples rust back up? fuck even throw in wd40 for a laugh jks.
Mate..so would you say that 'rust Buster's is best even for just spot priming rust spots?
Have been disappointed with white knight converter.
Sorry dude..I commented before vid was finished
What specific rust blocker do you use?
He states it in the video at 4:00 - Bondall Ranex Rustbuster
Is the epoxy primer that you’re using a high build epoxy primer? I noticed it doesn’t look shiny like what I have used in the past. That stuff is a freaking pain to deal with.
All the epoxy primers generally serve the same purpose. - high adhesion, DTM, and water resistant.
Most epoxy H/B primers can be adjusted with epoxy thinner to suit your needs, example 25% for priming, 0-20% for H/B .
Every company has their own chemists that play with this and provide TDS.
Hope that helps a bit.
What typ of filters r u useing
Why don’t you use chemical paint stripper? Grinding paint will create uneven waves in the panel.
Because it's so smelly and messy, and I'm working from home, and with such old thick steel it won't warp the panels. And it didn't warp the panels.
очень у вас тяжёлые условия тачки точить
Imagine subscribing to a channel and then being triggered by what an awesome spray painter chooses to do on his own project car hehe. Even more triggering because his methods seem to be working just fine. Happy New year 2023.
Thanks legend ☺️👊
Brunox
I worked in the restoration of historic vehicles for many years. When I see what you do, I associate it with a slaughterhouse, not a workshop. I have always had great respect for you for what you did. I think you'd better go back to Gunman from years ago.
Absolutely
This isn't work. This is a backyard home-grown garage project. What are you, the gatekeeper of all things concours?
For real dude, this is his car. At the end of the day, he’s gonna do what he wants to do. And I’ll bet you in the end it’s gonna turn out great and probably last a long time as well.
And if it doesn’t, that’s on him and he has to deal with it. It’s not like he’s doing a restoration for a paying customer.
The Gunman of years ago would have told you to piss off, while I go ahead doing what I want. *So piss off, I'll do what I want!!*
@The Gunman as someone in the middle of a full restore on a 67 datsun roadster, I appreciate the current content for bare metal stuff.