Great stuff mate nice solid units! (hey top tip just in case, I'm sure you do normally anyway, the 'flicker' with those lights is cause you have to match your shutter speed on the camera to the hz of the led, eg check the back panel of the lights, they're likely 50hz, then run the same or in double increments of shutter speed. My lights are 50hz as well and I almost always run 100 and boom no flicker :) )
I cut up up some 3mm HDPE heavy duty polyurethane sheets to protect the wheel arches, inexpensive, light & very durable, perfect for protecting your shock reservoirs and other areas. Gwynn Lewis in UK makes a number of HDPE protection kits which keep muck & stones out of areas above outriggers etc where sh*t gathers. I have bought some and liked the idea so much I’ve made some for other areas unprotected areas myself, just wish Land Rover had done this at Factory.
Man superior make some awesome stuff. Its cool you can get stuff for these old 4wds, yet sucks they cant have a very big range of things for all modern day ifs utes.
Hi Sir, hope all is well. I'm in the same boat now with my Def 90, any idea why the passenger lower arm are different than the driver side, I heve a left hand Def 90. Any insight will be appreciated. Strong stuff mate, wish all the best.
I believe the caster change with a 1" lift is minimal and geometry isn't affected enough to need rectifying. Only as you start going higher does the geometry/handling start to suffer.
Nothing at all, just seems like the best product to adjut the caster after lifting, with the added bonus of more articulation without affecting on road handling. Also nice to know you have a component under your rig that won't fail you while pushing the limits that the factory gear would never be tested for.
Also it’s best if you don’t tighten all the bolts until the car is on its wheels and under its own weight, Apparently it can bind the new bushes just a heads up if you didn’t already know 🤙🤙
The Pro Eagle jack, it's amazing for height and easy to manouvre. Had a few problems with it though, the extension no longer twists in to lock and has cracked and it has rubbed some material away from not lowering straight.
Kinda lost knowledge these days but if you just use early Range Rover radius arm bushings with some spacers in the standard defender arms you will never ever bind them out even with a long travel coil over setup.
Pin style is great if both wheels are going up and down in the same plain. However, when in a diagonal flex situation, ie one wheel up the other down, there is resistance in the pin/bush system that hampers flex(twist). That is exactly why Rangie Rover did not use that system at the front, 50 odd years ago! Those original engineers were spot on back then and their design has stood the test of time.
Why didnt you put the tail end in first then lift the plated section up to meet diff,this is how i did the patrol never had to ratchet diff like that. Oh well learn something different everyday. Starting to look like a real weapon mate.
Great stuff mate nice solid units! (hey top tip just in case, I'm sure you do normally anyway, the 'flicker' with those lights is cause you have to match your shutter speed on the camera to the hz of the led, eg check the back panel of the lights, they're likely 50hz, then run the same or in double increments of shutter speed. My lights are 50hz as well and I almost always run 100 and boom no flicker :) )
Its looking bloody awesome. Maybe some small alu ''bash'' plates over the shock reservoirs to deflect stones etc?
Giant! Just as I thought you'd do. Great to watch.
Mate she,s coming along very nicely looks the goods , nice stance on the ground.
I cut up up some 3mm HDPE heavy duty polyurethane sheets to protect the wheel arches, inexpensive, light & very durable, perfect for protecting your shock reservoirs and other areas.
Gwynn Lewis in UK makes a number of HDPE protection kits which keep muck & stones out of areas above outriggers etc where sh*t gathers. I have bought some and liked the idea so much I’ve made some for other areas unprotected areas myself, just wish Land Rover had done this at Factory.
Cool vehicle, and a great build.
Thanks!
Can't wait to see this weapon out on the tracks :)
Those arms are a pain on the defender. Was an epic struggle.when I did mine a few years ago.
Man superior make some awesome stuff. Its cool you can get stuff for these old 4wds, yet sucks they cant have a very big range of things for all modern day ifs utes.
Maybe it's due to the simplicity of the solid axle vehicles of the 80s/90s. A lot of parts are similar vehicle to vehicle.
Hi Sir, hope all is well.
I'm in the same boat now with my Def 90, any idea why the passenger lower arm are different than the driver side, I heve a left hand Def 90.
Any insight will be appreciated.
Strong stuff mate, wish all the best.
I am a set of these for my defender but don’t know if I need the 2 inch lift ones or standard lift ones
I have a 1 inch lift
I believe the caster change with a 1" lift is minimal and geometry isn't affected enough to need rectifying. Only as you start going higher does the geometry/handling start to suffer.
Do you rate the quality of the arms? I'm considering purchasing a set.
Rate the quality very high. And i know they'll last a lifetime.
Chassis looks in awesome condition. Did you restore it?
Yeah it is, I got lucky and just found a clean one!
Hey mate, what brakes are those? DBA? LOF?
RDA, it now pulls up very well!!
What was wrong with the originals?
Nothing at all, just seems like the best product to adjut the caster after lifting, with the added bonus of more articulation without affecting on road handling. Also nice to know you have a component under your rig that won't fail you while pushing the limits that the factory gear would never be tested for.
What’s your opinions on the pro lift jack??
Also it’s best if you don’t tighten all the bolts until the car is on its wheels and under its own weight, Apparently it can bind the new bushes just a heads up if you didn’t already know 🤙🤙
@@toms_gupooe thats why he was on the creeper with the torque wrench at the end of the vidya....
The Pro Eagle jack, it's amazing for height and easy to manouvre. Had a few problems with it though, the extension no longer twists in to lock and has cracked and it has rubbed some material away from not lowering straight.
I think your remote res will get smashed there rocks will destroy it. Can you lengthen the line to get it somewhere else.
If you watch the other vid where he installs the shocks, he says he's gunna make guards/bash plates for the remote res's
Kinda lost knowledge these days but if you just use early Range Rover radius arm bushings with some spacers in the standard defender arms you will never ever bind them out even with a long travel coil over setup.
Almost need a pin style with a drop box
Pin style is great if both wheels are going up and down in the same plain. However, when in a diagonal flex situation, ie one wheel up the other down, there is resistance in the pin/bush system that hampers flex(twist). That is exactly why Rangie Rover did not use that system at the front, 50 odd years ago! Those original engineers were spot on back then and their design has stood the test of time.
Why didnt you put the tail end in first then lift the plated section up to meet diff,this is how i did the patrol never had to ratchet diff like that. Oh well learn something different everyday. Starting to look like a real weapon mate.
Simply due to the sway bar & spring perch bracketing on the diff housing. Yeah a bit different to the Partrol.
Next time take the springs out and raise the axle up.