Hey Rick, I am in the early stages of restoring a 1967 Chevelle I picked up in the spring, and your videos have to be the best for proper restoration. Always learning something new. Keep up the great work.
Love your direct ,no nonsense approach that gets straight to the point. Master piece in the making, thanks again for sharing your process of fitment and restoration.
Hey Rick. very nice work, that car will be around for many more years than factory that's for sure. Totally agree on the door gaps at metal work stage.
Awesome Job it's glad to see the trade isn't dead,i was taught this way by some top notch Teacher's in Trade school and they gave me a lifetime Trade and they gave me the bvest thing ever and that's to always remember your name is the most important thing.
It needs filler to get it all the way there, but I would want it painting as is, because that workmanship is so genuine :o) I hear you on not tripping the welders. On max on my 180 I can feel the wire binding in the gun when it gets hot. It’s a nice set, so I’m not out to kill it.
Thank you very much for the compliment on the work. I just had to replace the lead in my MIG so I do understand on it starting to bind every now and then. With the new lead it feels like a brand new welder again.
@@carthageclassiccars yes, I should do the same. The spring liner is fighting me when I put a new tip in. I should stop being tight and buy a new one :o)
Very interesting to study your techniques on aligning all the panels and prepping metal for assembly. In the late 1980s (87-90) I had a 71 Challenger R/T sunroof car totally rebuilt after an acid dip of the body. No one was restoring old Mopar muscle cars like that in that time like, just like they are being rebuilt today. Mine was the first Mopar to be restored to that extent. The shop I hired rebuilt the car on a body jig and replaced the whole back clip and most of the front clip using some NOS and used parts from donor cars. I found a pair of quarters with the frame rails and trunk floor extensions and put those back on it. We replaced the Dutchman’s panel and tail light panel too. The cowl, roof, rockers, rear floor pan, doors and rad support were solid after the dip. But watching your process made me think about what my old car went through 35 years ago. The car sold at Mecum this year to the guys who have the TH-cam channel Mopars5150. So I can appreciate your attention to detail and getting it lined up right. Kudos go out to your attention to detail.
I really enjoy the Mopars5150 Channel, there is a good chance I saw it on one of their videos then. I agree and really give credit to the ones doing this kind of work back in the day as I know the challenge it must have been from the sourcing the parts and trying to save everything you could. Thank you very much for the story on your car and its also really cool you still know about where its at.
Great vid as usual. It would be fun to see a date and time clock in the background so we can see how many man-hours actually goes into a build like this.
Thanks a lot, I actually been asked for the timeline and usually keep that to myself as then it sets the bar for other shops or if I fight someone else's car they might ask why this one was faster ect.
I been trying to find some free time on the firebird, I have one more thing I need to finish up then back on the firebird. I promise its not forgotten plus I also need my clamps that i have holding it together and the JIG soon so work will continue on it.
Thank you very much for your patience in explaining in detail how to do a restoration. Sorry, I'm new to this car thing. I bought a 1965 Mustang. Could you please tell me where I could get parts, as it's a bit complicated for me.👍🏼
It looks great, nice job with your panel alignments. Do Cuda’s also need their roof glued? Thanks for the detailed build, it is helping me greatly with my Cuda build.
Love your TH-cam channel , wondering on your thoughts about J B weld ?? I saw a body shop using it for the gap between the roof and quarter panel instead of lead ? They held I there with tape and after it dried they sanded it and then put filler over it. I’m thinking of doing that as well but I don’t want to have problems later either. Your thoughts or comment would be grateful. Thx 👍✌🏻
I would say JB weld seems like a bad idea in general. No sanding properties and just no need to go that route. If you want something like metal "ALL metal" is an aluminized filler and made to replace the lead in joints almost like JB weld but its made specifically for the application. No need to reinvent the wheel if there is a product already made for what your looking for.
You are welcome!. I would LOVE to do a tri five build but the opportunity just hasn't been there lately. I have built a few 50 era cars similar to them but never a 55-57. It honestly is a bucket list of a car I want to build especially since all my favorite movies stared them.
Hi Rick...sorry I missed the debut yesterday of this segment. I do have a question....when you use your SCT, what grit works best to strip that single layer (EDP) or paint vs. Multiple layers? I used 120 on a factory painted finish and it seems like it should have been quicker.
I think its best to set some ground rules and expectations on what they want and how you operate before even starting anything. Once you both understand and come up with a plan then it makes it easier to work with them and explain when you have to do something a certain way.
I feel that is when you have your own ‘style’, like an artist? That’s your product. My friend Jowy can do all sorts of drawing styles and it amazes me. At bodywork I’m more like the stuff you all have to fix. I weld it up solid and filler it nice 😊
Hello! I have watched many restoration videos, but yours is the most careful and detailed, so I liked it. I am currently doing the same work and have replaced all of the rear parts except for the trunk lid. I am restoring a 1970 Challenger in Japan, but there is no information available in the country, so the work is difficult. If possible, I would like to talk to you by email. Is that possible?
Thank you very much, I am still working on the firebird and will post a video soon, I have been focusing trying to keep up with the promised customer timelines so my stuff get pushed to the back.
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Yes yes another build coming that's music to my ears ❤
I have been very blessed with a few of them
Hey Rick, I am in the early stages of restoring a 1967 Chevelle I picked up in the spring, and your videos have to be the best for proper restoration. Always learning something new. Keep up the great work.
Thats so cool to hear, thanks a lot for letting me know and good luck on your build.
Love your direct ,no nonsense approach that gets straight to the point. Master piece in the making, thanks again for sharing your process of fitment and restoration.
You are welcome, trying to not waste anyone's time and just build cars and I am glad its showing.
This is super informative and detailed. Great find ❤
Thanks a lot for watching
Great work. Nice tips to align panels 😊
Thank you!
Hey Rick. very nice work, that car will be around for many more years than factory that's for sure. Totally agree on the door gaps at metal work stage.
Thank you very much!
Thanks for another awesome video!
You are welcome thanks for checking it out.
Excellent work
Big Thanks!
Wow you do an outstanding work
Thank you very much!
Another master class, thank you Rick!
You're welcome
Looking awesome man! Thanks again for the videos and keep up the great work!
You're welcome and will do!
Beautiful work
Thank you!
Awesome Job it's glad to see the trade isn't dead,i was taught this way by some top notch Teacher's in Trade school and they gave me a lifetime Trade and they gave me the bvest thing ever and that's to always remember your name is the most important thing.
Thank you very much and 100% agree with you with the aspect your name and reputation carries you in this business and what jobs people trust in you.
It needs filler to get it all the way there, but I would want it painting as is, because that workmanship is so genuine :o) I hear you on not tripping the welders. On max on my 180 I can feel the wire binding in the gun when it gets hot. It’s a nice set, so I’m not out to kill it.
Thank you very much for the compliment on the work. I just had to replace the lead in my MIG so I do understand on it starting to bind every now and then. With the new lead it feels like a brand new welder again.
@@carthageclassiccars yes, I should do the same. The spring liner is fighting me when I put a new tip in. I should stop being tight and buy a new one :o)
Wow wow wish I could do work like that. Real craftsmanship proud of you bro.
Thank you so very much
Good information .........thanks.
You're welcome!
Very interesting to study your techniques on aligning all the panels and prepping metal for assembly. In the late 1980s (87-90) I had a 71 Challenger R/T sunroof car totally rebuilt after an acid dip of the body. No one was restoring old Mopar muscle cars like that in that time like, just like they are being rebuilt today. Mine was the first Mopar to be restored to that extent. The shop I hired rebuilt the car on a body jig and replaced the whole back clip and most of the front clip using some NOS and used parts from donor cars. I found a pair of quarters with the frame rails and trunk floor extensions and put those back on it. We replaced the Dutchman’s panel and tail light panel too. The cowl, roof, rockers, rear floor pan, doors and rad support were solid after the dip. But watching your process made me think about what my old car went through 35 years ago. The car sold at Mecum this year to the guys who have the TH-cam channel Mopars5150. So I can appreciate your attention to detail and getting it lined up right. Kudos go out to your attention to detail.
I really enjoy the Mopars5150 Channel, there is a good chance I saw it on one of their videos then. I agree and really give credit to the ones doing this kind of work back in the day as I know the challenge it must have been from the sourcing the parts and trying to save everything you could. Thank you very much for the story on your car and its also really cool you still know about where its at.
@@carthageclassiccars it was the 71 Citroen Yella sunroof Challenger they bought at Kissimmee. That was me in the pictures in the photo album.
Awesome work!!
Thanks!
Great work !! Can’t Waite to see the finished product.
Thank you and same here I am excited for this one.
Great vid as usual. It would be fun to see a date and time clock in the background so we can see how many man-hours actually goes into a build like this.
Thanks a lot, I actually been asked for the timeline and usually keep that to myself as then it sets the bar for other shops or if I fight someone else's car they might ask why this one was faster ect.
Looking more and more like a million dollar car 👍😎💰💯🏁💪🔑
Thank you very much
@@carthageclassiccars your welcome keep up the good work !you do 👍 excellent work
These videos are awesome, please keep them coming
Thanks a lot and will do.
Thank you Rick. I appreciate you sharing the know how. You are doing an amazing job.
You are welcome thanks a lot for watching and the support
Excellent work 🤦🏼♂️
Thank you!
It’s been awhile coming but looks really nice. Customer should be happy.
Thanks and yes I believe they are.
Great content once again...thanks for the tips...the car looks very nice ...thanks..🔧🔧👍
I really appreciate you watching, thank you.
As usual and as expected, another great tutorial Rick. Hopefully you are one day closer for a Firebird update ! Thank you for sharing.
I been trying to find some free time on the firebird, I have one more thing I need to finish up then back on the firebird. I promise its not forgotten plus I also need my clamps that i have holding it together and the JIG soon so work will continue on it.
Killer ❤
Great work you do
Thank you very much!
Thank you very much for your patience in explaining in detail how to do a restoration. Sorry, I'm new to this car thing. I bought a 1965 Mustang. Could you please tell me where I could get parts, as it's a bit complicated for me.👍🏼
Its been a few years since I did a mustang but CJ pony parts might be a good place to start. Good luck on your build and thank you.
It looks great, nice job with your panel alignments.
Do Cuda’s also need their roof glued?
Thanks for the detailed build, it is helping me greatly with my Cuda build.
No If i remember right the cuda roof has the space in between the center brace and is not glued, its been a few months since I did a cuda roof.
Love your TH-cam channel , wondering on your thoughts about J B weld ?? I saw a body shop using it for the gap between the roof and quarter panel instead of lead ? They held I there with tape and after it dried they sanded it and then put filler over it. I’m thinking of doing that as well but I don’t want to have problems later either. Your thoughts or comment would be grateful. Thx 👍✌🏻
I would say JB weld seems like a bad idea in general. No sanding properties and just no need to go that route. If you want something like metal "ALL metal" is an aluminized filler and made to replace the lead in joints almost like JB weld but its made specifically for the application. No need to reinvent the wheel if there is a product already made for what your looking for.
I have watched many many of your videos. thanks for all the great information you have shared. Have you considered any tri five builds?
You are welcome!. I would LOVE to do a tri five build but the opportunity just hasn't been there lately. I have built a few 50 era cars similar to them but never a 55-57. It honestly is a bucket list of a car I want to build especially since all my favorite movies stared them.
Where did you purchase the pump up sprayer bottle? You sprayed lacquer thinner or de-greaser at the 15:41 mark in the video.
It was degreaser and amazon the company is Marolex. I would leave the pump handle up as it seems to get stuck if i settle it down when not using.
Hi Rick...sorry I missed the debut yesterday of this segment. I do have a question....when you use your SCT, what grit works best to strip that single layer (EDP) or paint vs. Multiple layers? I used 120 on a factory painted finish and it seems like it should have been quicker.
I use the 40 grit black stripping drum. I found most everything else on that sct doesn't do what I need it too.
As i got older in this Trade I do work with customers,but i don't let them dictate the way i build...
I think its best to set some ground rules and expectations on what they want and how you operate before even starting anything. Once you both understand and come up with a plan then it makes it easier to work with them and explain when you have to do something a certain way.
I feel that is when you have your own ‘style’, like an artist? That’s your product. My friend Jowy can do all sorts of drawing styles and it amazes me. At bodywork I’m more like the stuff you all have to fix. I weld it up solid and filler it nice 😊
Hello!
I have watched many restoration videos, but yours is the most careful and detailed, so I liked it.
I am currently doing the same work and have replaced all of the rear parts except for the trunk lid.
I am restoring a 1970 Challenger in Japan, but there is no information available in the country, so the work is difficult.
If possible, I would like to talk to you by email. Is that possible?
Yes feel free to email me at carthageclassiccars@gmail.com
Great work Rick, are you still working on the Firebird?
Thank you very much, I am still working on the firebird and will post a video soon, I have been focusing trying to keep up with the promised customer timelines so my stuff get pushed to the back.
Totally understand, since watching your channel, you have been an inspiration for me to work on my Camaro
Excellent work
Thanks a lot!
Excellent work 🤦🏼♂️
Thanks!