Yes, this was many to visualize how a dumb BMS works. You really wouldn’t use this method with the ANT because it can do better balancing if you set to do an autobalance session whenever needed automatically. This method in this video is what I would call basic passive balancing, like a dumb bms. It will work but you need to leave the charger plugged in to let it balance. The default setting will start an autobalance session each time it’s charged over 4.1v/cell if the differential is 0.020v or more, and it will stop balancing when it’s within 0.005v. But these settings can be set as low as 0.001v and 0.000v respectively, and it will automatically balance any time you charge it up to 4.1v (which can also be set lower but shouldn’t be too low . Theres tons is settings for SOC also. I generally leave a buffer, for example if my real AH is 30 i will use 27ah so it will show 0% soc but still have 10%. This helps whoever pushed the limit have less miles to push or pedal the bike back home.
Thanks. I try to make some videos that let people know how much more useful a Smart BMS can be. This video its just set up to mimic a basic BMS, like I might set it for someone who never wants to open the app. But i’ll also make some videos showing how to use a smart BMS more effectively.
0:00 First step is to measure your charger’s open voltage to find the balancing point 0:10 In my case, it’s 54.75v. This is the 0.00a voltage. 0:20 Next divide the open voltage by number of cells in series. In my case its 13s 0:30 Truncate the result to 3 significant digits, 4.21v in my case 0:38 Open ANT app, ParameterSet tab, then click BalanceParams 0:45 Set UnitBalLimitV to value determined in previous step, 4.21v in my case. Click “save” 0:55 Set Balance current to max, 180 or 200. The actual balance current will be about half this in milliamps. Click “save” 1:05 Next open VParams 1:10 set UnitoverVProtect 0.010v higher than the balance limit, 4.22v in my case. This allows a margin during balancing 1:17 as always, after any change, click the red Save at top, it will turn blue 1:21 (10x speed) charging with my 2.0a charger but its already on the taper at 1.6a 1:30 every real lithium pack charger will have a taper down in current before it reaches peak voltage. 1.5a now 1:48 the taper in current is vital when fast charging because voltage surge of each brick will be slightly different. 1.0a now 2:55 First cell goes over 4.210v and starts to bleed 3:02 charge current is 1/10 originally charge, 0.2a. Charger light turns green but charger still trickle charges. 3:20 0.1a charge current, 3 cells bleeding now. The real balancing has begun only after the charger light is green. 4:41 now differential is only 0.001v between highest and lowest cells. 4:46 when I unplugged the charger, balancing stops because the surge voltage goes away. This is why a dumb BMS only balances when the charger remains plugged in with the light green.
Thank you, I have 2 32s ant bms that connect to the application normally via bluetooth. I changed one's mac address (1) to find out which one was connected. Now I cannot connect to BMS via Bluetooth at that changed mac address. What should I do to connect?
Im not sure how to fix that situation. Did you try disconnecting the red wire and then reconnecting it and turning the BMS back on with the two black wires? You can name the BMS in settings so that it’s easy to know which is which. There should be a way to reset the BMS , provided with the 2 black wires, maybe holding them together for 10 seconds or something.
Hello again bro!!where do i set my max discharge ampere if i want to change it?i think now its limited to 380a like the bms i use.i want to change it to 500-550.
Thats in the CurParams section. There are three current limits with associated time delay. DisCHGOverCurProtect sets the maximum continuous current your battery cells, BMS and DC wiring can handle. DisCHGOCPD is the number of seconds you can exceed this before the ANT closes the discharge port. Lvl2DisCHGOCP sets the maximum current your cells, BMS, or DC wiring can tolerate for the number of seconds entered in DisCHGOCPD. Lvl2DisCHGOCPD is the number of milliseconds you can exceed Lv2DisCHGOCP without causing damage. ShortCircuitProtect is the max level your battery, BMS and DC wiring can tolerate for the time delay Lvl2DisCHGOCPD ShortCircuitProtectDelay is the number of microseconds before the ANT will trip if current goes over ShortCircuitProtect level. Basically these settings form 4 current “zones” and how long you can be in them. Lets say you use these settings: 400a 30s 600a 1000 milliseconds 900a 1200 microseconds Zone 1: 0-400a. You can be here continuously Zone 2: 400a-600a. You can be here for up to 30 seconds. Zone 3: 600a-900a. You can be here for 1000 milliseconds (1 second) Zone 4: over 900a. You can be here for 1200 microseconds (0.0012 seconds) The zones and times you allow yourself to be in these zones should be based on whichever is the weakest link, your cells, buses, BMS, power cables from the battery to the controller. If the controller has no protection then it should be included. Also if the motor has no thermal protection it can be included. The ANT settings can be set to shut down before the motor would typically burn up, or the controller, or the cells, or the power cables.
@@imho7250 thank u once again bro you are amazing!! My settings is almost as u said but on lvl2 is 500a for 5 seconds only.isnt it a bit conservative? 400a 5s 500a 1000ms 600a (600 is max for my fardriver)
@@apostolospetridis6038 , if your fardriver DC amp is set to 600a, short circuit needs to be above that, or the ANT will trip every time you give full throttle. And 5 seconds is not enough normally. 400a 15 seconds 650a 1000ms 800a 1200US Might work. The fardriver peak. Is normally 3-4x the continuous amps for both it and the motor. You can use the BOOST feature to be one of the protection limits that kicks on before the ANT bms shuts down. For example, setting 400a DC and using a max speed (rpm) setting that pulls current below 200a, and then 600a DC boost with a 15 second time limit and since Boost overruns max speed rpm limit, it will use rations in speed which you would tune to pull amps down to 500a. Then the ANT needs to be set to allow the Fardriver to work unless something goes wrong. The settings that match the fardriver with boost settings above are: 300a 20seconds 650a (to allow 600a boost peak) 1second 700a 0.0012seconds Short circuit should be high enough not to trip unless something abnormal happens. If it trips when connected the battery and charging the capacitors in the fardriver, its too low.
@@apostolospetridis6038 i don’t know all the components you have or the ambient temperature where you operate it, but normally you will identify the weakest links in your powertrain and base settings on that. When i was making my ebike I bought a 3kw motor and a 72360 Fardriver. But my battery was 13s5a 18650 with 5a/cell rated current. So 25a continuous and about 60a was enough to pull it from 4.2v/cell down to 3.7v/cell, so that was my peak discharge. So i had to set my controller to. 60a dc and max rpm such that amps would be pulled back to 25a. Later i upgraded my battery to 16s5p 21700 P42A with 10a/cell continuous and 30a/cell peak. So 50a/150a total. Then I set my fardriver to 100a dc, max speed rpm to 30a, boost at 150a, and with field weakening off the motor speed was limited to 70 kph and dropped to 40a DC. So when doing your settings try to adjust the fardriver as if you have BMS bypass, and the settings of the fardriver protect everything. Then once those are set then the ANT current limit and time delay should be set to allow that normal behavior and only trip if something abnormal happens.
It seems that a mid balance makes the most sense. In my pack B14 is the weakest if i do a charge balance it's quite suboptimal but if i do a mid balance i get the most out of the situation. B14 will be the highest when charged it'll be the same in the middle and lowest down low but not by such a great margin as if i did a charge balance. Anyway do you have any tips how to calibrate the SOC? Mine always gets messed up. It seems whenever i turn the discharge or charge port who even knows it gets all jumbled up and says 15% more than reality. If i charge it to 100 it rectifies itself i just dont wanna charge it soo much cause it messes up the battery. Do you think there's some calibration where it just sets correct SOC based on present resting voltage? (Like i dont even know why it doesnt do that automatically frankly nothing is easier than setting SOC based on resting volt)
@@dcktater7847 if your pack has a significant capacity imbalance, then top balance wont be optimal when using a passive balance BMS. With a JK active balance it can sort of mask a bad battery. If the mismatch is very significant, and you are willing to manually start autobalance, then bottom balances will give the best result because if you have even 0.200v differential at the top. It doesn’t affect anything, the high brick will just end charging. But having the bottom at 0.000v difference means you can ensure the controller LVP trips before the ANT unit LVP. And the controller typically has a turtle mode to help when you get near LVP. The ANT doesn’t l lol For SOC there are two things you can do to make it better. One is the calibrate the SOC table based on your cells in your typical ambient temperature. It’s vital that 100% SOC is slightly lower than full charge, because as you noted, when you exceed that value that is what resets the coulomb counter. The other thing is SOC method. There is 1 2 and 3. I think 3 uses the SOC table when the battery is at rest for 60 seconds, and coulomb counting for SOC whenever there is charge or discharge. I am not sure if it uses the highest cell or average cell value to lookup SOC from that SOC table in PackParameters. But if you are not top balancing then there will be a different SOC than expected for a given pack voltage. To calibrate the SOC table I typically fully charge and top balance and then reset the cycle counter and drive until i used 10% of the AH. For example if you have a 50ah pack. You want 5ah discharged, and the cycle counter will show 2.5ah between it counts one discharge and one charge as a cycle. So you drive (preferably without regen on which throws off the ah), until you let 10% out. Theh let the pack rest for 60 seconds or more. Then record the cell voltage (average if your cell diff is high), in the SOC table for 90%. Then drive until another 5ah (10ah total) is drained (now the cycle counter shows 5ah). Let it rest 60 seconds or more, record the cell voltage and enter that in 80% on the table. Keep going down until you used 50 ah, which should give cells at around 2.75-3.2v, and this will be 0% SOC. Then you can add some buffer at the bottom if you want, and raise the 0%, 10%, 20% slightly so that your SOC definitely reads 0 while you still have a 5-10% remaining.
@@imho7250 Okay i'll try 3 for now. It seems it's what i need. However i guess i just wont turn off the charge/disccharge MOS so it wont get messed up (or maybe there's a special sequence of pulling the charger off then turning it off or the other way around that makes it go crazy cause it doesnt always do that i gotta investigate this further) . Right now i only turn it off regularly cause the light is fixed without switch but i'll rewire it soon. Also it sucks that it needs the discharge MOS on to balance so i cant even balance now cause i dont wanna leave the lights on for so long. Well i would highly advise agains the JK. I have a plethora of dead JKs here with burnt FET faulty PCB and unknown problems it seem like a piece of 💩. Annd also that 2A balance is maybe 0.5A in real life. It surely isnt able to pull out any significant drift under a few hours while you park so that AB is pretty much useless.
@@dcktater7847 , i haven’t tried to balance with either ports closed. My batteries always go through a key switch so the only thing powered is the controller capacitors, and they don’t put much drain on the pack. Are you saying you cant hit the “start autobalance” button and make your pack balanced until it reaches the UnitDiffOffV setting? I have a friend with a new battery and for some reason his start auto balance button isn’t working, but auto balance will start automatically if all prerequisites are met, I never used JK but a friend had one and never had a problem with it. But when he got his 21s1p 80ah I told him to get an ANT because the JK is only needed if you have a 💩 battery. Lol Yes, the active balance is slower than advertised because they base it on some ungodly difference between the high snd low cell to get 2a. But real world differences might only allow 0.500a. But this is still 10x faster than an ANT because the ANT set if 200 gives about 0.100a, and since its only bleeding the high and not filling the low, it takes a long time. Especially if its only 1 low brick and you need to bleed all the other bricks down to it. I would only recommend active balancing for a battery that has trouble staying balanced, like Chinese LifePO4 cells that were taken from the reject pile. What is the background of your battery that makes it behaves so bad? I have a 20s6p 32700 LiFePO4 pack that I built and it was doing pretty good until my exgf got her tires changed and the shop put the front tire spacers in wrong, causing the tire to rub the fork, hard like brakes are on, then instead of telling the shop idiots the bike doesn’t roll easily, she drove it at full speed for 1 hr with earbuds playing loud music to ensure no useful warnings ever made it to her brain. She popped almost 20 CIDs and severely degraded the other 100 cells. So I replaced the 20 dead cells but now the pack balance behaves sort of like you described your battery. I might rebuild it with new cells and that will make it nice again,
Hey I'm reaching out because I cant find the information online. I cant get my ant bms to 'work' first time using an ant bms. 1st issue is the app 2nd issue is my pack is 20s, sitting at 68v and ive read that the bms wont pair under a certain voltage, but what voltage is the cut-off? 3rd is i want an app for my phone and the ones tried dont seem to work. Could be related to the bms refusing to pair, idk. I cant find a user manual with any of this information. I dont know what to do next. Daly Bluetooth was a piece of cake to use, so i figured I'd be even better off with this one.
To turn on the. BMS and it’s Bluetooth you just need to plug in the charger (must be lithium charger not lead acid). The other way is depending on the model, if it has two black wires you just touch them together for a second, and if you have black and red wire you need to connect a 3v battery to it for a second. Either method you will hear a beep when it turns on.
If the BMS closed the charge port it will say why in the “protectInfo” window. What is your UnitoverVProtect set at? What is your TotaloverVProtect set at? Did your charger turn off or did the light turn green? Green light is not off, it’s just at low current. This is when most balancing will occur, as long as the BMS charge port stays open and the BalanceParams are set to balance the cells.
@@imho7250 unitoverVProtect is at 4.22 TotaloverVProtect is at 86v The charger physically clicks off and the screen says 100% and a green light is on, once it does that I don’t see anymore input current in the BMS app.
@@masonl2954 , if you set UnitBalLimitV to 4.200v then the cell at 4.203v will be bled down to 4.200v. This should allow the charger to bring the lower cells up some. If there is still an imbalance you might need to set UnitBl!imitV to 4.199v or 4.198v until it bleeds all the higher cells enough to allow the charger to bring up the lower cells. Setting BalanceCur to a higher value like 180 or 200 can also help bleed down the high cells faster. There is also another balancing method the ANT can do which will work even if your charger does actually turn off once reaching a certain voltage. In this method you set: ChargingUnitBalStartV at about 4.15v (this tells the ANT not to start balancing until the first cell gets over 4.15v, providing other conditions exist) UnitDiffOnV set at 0.001v (this will start autobalance if other conditions are met) UnitDiffOffV set at 0.000v (this will make autobalance run until all cells are exactly the same one autobalance begins) BalanceChargingCur set at 1a (this will only allow autobalance to begin when charging current is less than 1a so that it’s not trying to balance out surge voltage. The way these 3 settings work together is to make sure balancing only happens near the end of charging cycle. Since your charger is certainly more than 1a, it will wait until the charger’s current tapers down to 1a and then since at least one cell group is over 4.15 and if there is more than 0.001v difference in the cells, it will begin balancing and even if the charger turns off, as long as its not interrupted, the ANT will bleed the high cells down until 0.000v difference. BalanceCut may need to be set high the first time but later it should be set as low as possible that allows it to finish balancing. The slower it bleeds the high cells the better the balance will be. But it’s also related to how many AH the pack is. This second method is not like a dumb BMS which can only bleed cells which are over a specific voltage. While its not technically active balance because its not sending the excess energy into cells that need it, I would classify it as interactive balancing, because it is going to look at all the cells and keep going until they are perfectly balanced.
Was it working then suddenly you got that message or something you saw during the setup after a new installation? If you can make a screen recording of what your ANT BMS app is showing that will help.
You can easily make a screen recording of your app and post it on your channel. But if its new and you connected the balance leads correctly, then go to ParameterSet tab, FastSettings, and enter the correct number of bricks in series.
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Great explanation and real footage!
Yes, this was many to visualize how a dumb BMS works. You really wouldn’t use this method with the ANT because it can do better balancing if you set to do an autobalance session whenever needed automatically.
This method in this video is what I would call basic passive balancing, like a dumb bms. It will work but you need to leave the charger plugged in to let it balance.
The default setting will start an autobalance session each time it’s charged over 4.1v/cell if the differential is 0.020v or more, and it will stop balancing when it’s within 0.005v. But these settings can be set as low as 0.001v and 0.000v respectively, and it will automatically balance any time you charge it up to 4.1v (which can also be set lower but shouldn’t be too low .
Theres tons is settings for SOC also. I generally leave a buffer, for example if my real AH is 30 i will use 27ah so it will show 0% soc but still have 10%. This helps whoever pushed the limit have less miles to push or pedal the bike back home.
Another great informative video, very very useful info, much appreciated, these videos you upload are really helpful, thanks
Thanks. I try to make some videos that let people know how much more useful a Smart BMS can be. This video its just set up to mimic a basic BMS, like I might set it for someone who never wants to open the app. But i’ll also make some videos showing how to use a smart BMS more effectively.
0:00 First step is to measure your charger’s open voltage to find the balancing point
0:10 In my case, it’s 54.75v. This is the 0.00a voltage.
0:20 Next divide the open voltage by number of cells in series. In my case its 13s
0:30 Truncate the result to 3 significant digits, 4.21v in my case
0:38 Open ANT app, ParameterSet tab, then click BalanceParams
0:45 Set UnitBalLimitV to value determined in previous step, 4.21v in my case. Click “save”
0:55 Set Balance current to max, 180 or 200. The actual balance current will be about half this in milliamps. Click “save”
1:05 Next open VParams
1:10 set UnitoverVProtect 0.010v higher than the balance limit, 4.22v in my case. This allows a margin during balancing
1:17 as always, after any change, click the red Save at top, it will turn blue
1:21 (10x speed) charging with my 2.0a charger but its already on the taper at 1.6a
1:30 every real lithium pack charger will have a taper down in current before it reaches peak voltage. 1.5a now
1:48 the taper in current is vital when fast charging because voltage surge of each brick will be slightly different. 1.0a now
2:55 First cell goes over 4.210v and starts to bleed
3:02 charge current is 1/10 originally charge, 0.2a. Charger light turns green but charger still trickle charges.
3:20 0.1a charge current, 3 cells bleeding now. The real balancing has begun only after the charger light is green.
4:41 now differential is only 0.001v between highest and lowest cells.
4:46 when I unplugged the charger, balancing stops because the surge voltage goes away. This is why a dumb BMS only balances when the charger remains plugged in with the light green.
Thank you, I have 2 32s ant bms that connect to the application normally via bluetooth. I changed one's mac address (1) to find out which one was connected. Now I cannot connect to BMS via Bluetooth at that changed mac address. What should I do to connect?
Im not sure how to fix that situation. Did you try disconnecting the red wire and then reconnecting it and turning the BMS back on with the two black wires?
You can name the BMS in settings so that it’s easy to know which is which.
There should be a way to reset the BMS , provided with the 2 black wires, maybe holding them together for 10 seconds or something.
Hello again bro!!where do i set my max discharge ampere if i want to change it?i think now its limited to 380a like the bms i use.i want to change it to 500-550.
Thats in the CurParams section. There are three current limits with associated time delay.
DisCHGOverCurProtect sets the maximum continuous current your battery cells, BMS and DC wiring can handle.
DisCHGOCPD is the number of seconds you can exceed this before the ANT closes the discharge port.
Lvl2DisCHGOCP sets the maximum current your cells, BMS, or DC wiring can tolerate for the number of seconds entered in DisCHGOCPD.
Lvl2DisCHGOCPD is the number of milliseconds you can exceed Lv2DisCHGOCP without causing damage.
ShortCircuitProtect is the max level your battery, BMS and DC wiring can tolerate for the time delay Lvl2DisCHGOCPD
ShortCircuitProtectDelay is the number of microseconds before the ANT will trip if current goes over ShortCircuitProtect level.
Basically these settings form 4 current “zones” and how long you can be in them. Lets say you use these settings:
400a
30s
600a
1000 milliseconds
900a
1200 microseconds
Zone 1: 0-400a. You can be here continuously
Zone 2: 400a-600a. You can be here for up to 30 seconds.
Zone 3: 600a-900a. You can be here for 1000 milliseconds (1 second)
Zone 4: over 900a. You can be here for 1200 microseconds (0.0012 seconds)
The zones and times you allow yourself to be in these zones should be based on whichever is the weakest link, your cells, buses, BMS, power cables from the battery to the controller. If the controller has no protection then it should be included. Also if the motor has no thermal protection it can be included. The ANT settings can be set to shut down before the motor would typically burn up, or the controller, or the cells, or the power cables.
@@imho7250 bro you are amazing!!i learned so much from you and your videos!!!thank you once again!!
@@imho7250 thank u once again bro you are amazing!! My settings is almost as u said but on lvl2 is 500a for 5 seconds only.isnt it a bit conservative?
400a
5s
500a
1000ms
600a (600 is max for my fardriver)
@@apostolospetridis6038 , if your fardriver DC amp is set to 600a, short circuit needs to be above that, or the ANT will trip every time you give full throttle.
And 5 seconds is not enough normally.
400a
15 seconds
650a 1000ms
800a 1200US
Might work.
The fardriver peak. Is normally 3-4x the continuous amps for both it and the motor. You can use the BOOST feature to be one of the protection limits that kicks on before the ANT bms shuts down.
For example, setting 400a DC and using a max speed (rpm) setting that pulls current below 200a, and then 600a DC boost with a 15 second time limit and since Boost overruns max speed rpm limit, it will use rations in speed which you would tune to pull amps down to 500a.
Then the ANT needs to be set to allow the Fardriver to work unless something goes wrong. The settings that match the fardriver with boost settings above are:
300a
20seconds
650a (to allow 600a boost peak)
1second
700a
0.0012seconds
Short circuit should be high enough not to trip unless something abnormal happens. If it trips when connected the battery and charging the capacitors in the fardriver, its too low.
@@apostolospetridis6038 i don’t know all the components you have or the ambient temperature where you operate it, but normally you will identify the weakest links in your powertrain and base settings on that.
When i was making my ebike I bought a 3kw motor and a 72360 Fardriver. But my battery was 13s5a 18650 with 5a/cell rated current. So 25a continuous and about 60a was enough to pull it from 4.2v/cell down to 3.7v/cell, so that was my peak discharge. So i had to set my controller to. 60a dc and max rpm such that amps would be pulled back to 25a.
Later i upgraded my battery to 16s5p 21700 P42A with 10a/cell continuous and 30a/cell peak. So 50a/150a total. Then I set my fardriver to 100a dc, max speed rpm to 30a, boost at 150a, and with field weakening off the motor speed was limited to 70 kph and dropped to 40a DC.
So when doing your settings try to adjust the fardriver as if you have BMS bypass, and the settings of the fardriver protect everything. Then once those are set then the ANT current limit and time delay should be set to allow that normal behavior and only trip if something abnormal happens.
It seems that a mid balance makes the most sense. In my pack B14 is the weakest if i do a charge balance it's quite suboptimal but if i do a mid balance i get the most out of the situation. B14 will be the highest when charged it'll be the same in the middle and lowest down low but not by such a great margin as if i did a charge balance.
Anyway do you have any tips how to calibrate the SOC? Mine always gets messed up. It seems whenever i turn the discharge or charge port who even knows it gets all jumbled up and says 15% more than reality. If i charge it to 100 it rectifies itself i just dont wanna charge it soo much cause it messes up the battery. Do you think there's some calibration where it just sets correct SOC based on present resting voltage? (Like i dont even know why it doesnt do that automatically frankly nothing is easier than setting SOC based on resting volt)
@@dcktater7847 if your pack has a significant capacity imbalance, then top balance wont be optimal when using a passive balance BMS. With a JK active balance it can sort of mask a bad battery.
If the mismatch is very significant, and you are willing to manually start autobalance, then bottom balances will give the best result because if you have even 0.200v differential at the top. It doesn’t affect anything, the high brick will just end charging. But having the bottom at 0.000v difference means you can ensure the controller LVP trips before the ANT unit LVP. And the controller typically has a turtle mode to help when you get near LVP. The ANT doesn’t l lol
For SOC there are two things you can do to make it better. One is the calibrate the SOC table based on your cells in your typical ambient temperature. It’s vital that 100% SOC is slightly lower than full charge, because as you noted, when you exceed that value that is what resets the coulomb counter.
The other thing is SOC method. There is 1 2 and 3. I think 3 uses the SOC table when the battery is at rest for 60 seconds, and coulomb counting for SOC whenever there is charge or discharge.
I am not sure if it uses the highest cell or average cell value to lookup SOC from that SOC table in PackParameters. But if you are not top balancing then there will be a different SOC than expected for a given pack voltage.
To calibrate the SOC table I typically fully charge and top balance and then reset the cycle counter and drive until i used 10% of the AH. For example if you have a 50ah pack. You want 5ah discharged, and the cycle counter will show 2.5ah between it counts one discharge and one charge as a cycle.
So you drive (preferably without regen on which throws off the ah), until you let 10% out. Theh let the pack rest for 60 seconds or more. Then record the cell voltage (average if your cell diff is high), in the SOC table for 90%.
Then drive until another 5ah (10ah total) is drained (now the cycle counter shows 5ah). Let it rest 60 seconds or more, record the cell voltage and enter that in 80% on the table.
Keep going down until you used 50 ah, which should give cells at around 2.75-3.2v, and this will be 0% SOC.
Then you can add some buffer at the bottom if you want, and raise the 0%, 10%, 20% slightly so that your SOC definitely reads 0 while you still have a 5-10% remaining.
@@imho7250 Okay i'll try 3 for now. It seems it's what i need. However i guess i just wont turn off the charge/disccharge MOS so it wont get messed up (or maybe there's a special sequence of pulling the charger off then turning it off or the other way around that makes it go crazy cause it doesnt always do that i gotta investigate this further) . Right now i only turn it off regularly cause the light is fixed without switch but i'll rewire it soon. Also it sucks that it needs the discharge MOS on to balance so i cant even balance now cause i dont wanna leave the lights on for so long.
Well i would highly advise agains the JK. I have a plethora of dead JKs here with burnt FET faulty PCB and unknown problems it seem like a piece of 💩. Annd also that 2A balance is maybe 0.5A in real life. It surely isnt able to pull out any significant drift under a few hours while you park so that AB is pretty much useless.
@@dcktater7847 , i haven’t tried to balance with either ports closed. My batteries always go through a key switch so the only thing powered is the controller capacitors, and they don’t put much drain on the pack.
Are you saying you cant hit the “start autobalance” button and make your pack balanced until it reaches the UnitDiffOffV setting? I have a friend with a new battery and for some reason his start auto balance button isn’t working, but auto balance will start automatically if all prerequisites are met,
I never used JK but a friend had one and never had a problem with it. But when he got his 21s1p 80ah I told him to get an ANT because the JK is only needed if you have a 💩 battery. Lol
Yes, the active balance is slower than advertised because they base it on some ungodly difference between the high snd low cell to get 2a. But real world differences might only allow 0.500a. But this is still 10x faster than an ANT because the ANT set if 200 gives about 0.100a, and since its only bleeding the high and not filling the low, it takes a long time. Especially if its only 1 low brick and you need to bleed all the other bricks down to it.
I would only recommend active balancing for a battery that has trouble staying balanced, like Chinese LifePO4 cells that were taken from the reject pile.
What is the background of your battery that makes it behaves so bad? I have a 20s6p 32700 LiFePO4 pack that I built and it was doing pretty good until my exgf got her tires changed and the shop put the front tire spacers in wrong, causing the tire to rub the fork, hard like brakes are on, then instead of telling the shop idiots the bike doesn’t roll easily, she drove it at full speed for 1 hr with earbuds playing loud music to ensure no useful warnings ever made it to her brain.
She popped almost 20 CIDs and severely degraded the other 100 cells. So I replaced the 20 dead cells but now the pack balance behaves sort of like you described your battery. I might rebuild it with new cells and that will make it nice again,
@@imho7250 meeh it keeps deleting my commies i give up. Google is evil...
@@imho7250 meeeh this effer keeps deleting my comments...i already wrote two anyway i tried method 3 and it immediately jumped to the correct value..
Hey I'm reaching out because I cant find the information online.
I cant get my ant bms to 'work' first time using an ant bms.
1st issue is the app
2nd issue is my pack is 20s, sitting at 68v and ive read that the bms wont pair under a certain voltage, but what voltage is the cut-off?
3rd is i want an app for my phone and the ones tried dont seem to work. Could be related to the bms refusing to pair, idk.
I cant find a user manual with any of this information. I dont know what to do next.
Daly Bluetooth was a piece of cake to use, so i figured I'd be even better off with this one.
Can you see your BMS in the app when you scan for devices? Are you using iOS or Android?
If your ANT is fairly new, here is where you can get the official software for Android, iOS or Windows:
antbms.com:9090/download/download.html
To turn on the. BMS and it’s Bluetooth you just need to plug in the charger (must be lithium charger not lead acid).
The other way is depending on the model, if it has two black wires you just touch them together for a second, and if you have black and red wire you need to connect a 3v battery to it for a second.
Either method you will hear a beep when it turns on.
@@imho7250 android. My phone picks it up in the Bluetooth devices
@@imho7250 I did the 3v wire thing. Made a beep. Two lights alternate flash, on the other side, a single light stays on.
Hey I tried this but my charger shuts off when only one cell hits like 4.203v any idea why mine might be doing this?
If the BMS closed the charge port it will say why in the “protectInfo” window.
What is your UnitoverVProtect set at?
What is your TotaloverVProtect set at?
Did your charger turn off or did the light turn green? Green light is not off, it’s just at low current. This is when most balancing will occur, as long as the BMS charge port stays open and the BalanceParams are set to balance the cells.
@@imho7250 unitoverVProtect is at 4.22
TotaloverVProtect is at 86v
The charger physically clicks off and the screen says 100% and a green light is on, once it does that I don’t see anymore input current in the BMS app.
@@masonl2954 , if you set UnitBalLimitV to 4.200v then the cell at 4.203v will be bled down to 4.200v. This should allow the charger to bring the lower cells up some. If there is still an imbalance you might need to set UnitBl!imitV to 4.199v or 4.198v until it bleeds all the higher cells enough to allow the charger to bring up the lower cells.
Setting BalanceCur to a higher value like 180 or 200 can also help bleed down the high cells faster.
There is also another balancing method the ANT can do which will work even if your charger does actually turn off once reaching a certain voltage. In this method you set:
ChargingUnitBalStartV at about 4.15v (this tells the ANT not to start balancing until the first cell gets over 4.15v, providing other conditions exist)
UnitDiffOnV set at 0.001v (this will start autobalance if other conditions are met)
UnitDiffOffV set at 0.000v (this will make autobalance run until all cells are exactly the same one autobalance begins)
BalanceChargingCur set at 1a (this will only allow autobalance to begin when charging current is less than 1a so that it’s not trying to balance out surge voltage.
The way these 3 settings work together is to make sure balancing only happens near the end of charging cycle. Since your charger is certainly more than 1a, it will wait until the charger’s current tapers down to 1a and then since at least one cell group is over 4.15 and if there is more than 0.001v difference in the cells, it will begin balancing and even if the charger turns off, as long as its not interrupted, the ANT will bleed the high cells down until 0.000v difference.
BalanceCut may need to be set high the first time but later it should be set as low as possible that allows it to finish balancing. The slower it bleeds the high cells the better the balance will be. But it’s also related to how many AH the pack is.
This second method is not like a dumb BMS which can only bleed cells which are over a specific voltage. While its not technically active balance because its not sending the excess energy into cells that need it, I would classify it as interactive balancing, because it is going to look at all the cells and keep going until they are perfectly balanced.
@@imho7250 I’ll give it a try and let you know what I find out! Thanks for the help!
@@imho7250 it’s a 20s 72v 42ah li-ion battery pack
Hi bro, what is the meaning of unitvcheckwrong? It was showing on my bms app
Was it working then suddenly you got that message or something you saw during the setup after a new installation?
If you can make a screen recording of what your ANT BMS app is showing that will help.
After a new installation bro, check this screen shot, and if i stop balancing non stop beep will happen.
Do you have a facebook page? I cannot put the screen shot here.
You can easily make a screen recording of your app and post it on your channel. But if its new and you connected the balance leads correctly, then go to ParameterSet tab, FastSettings, and enter the correct number of bricks in series.
This video shows that step:
th-cam.com/video/hGniElSUL8w/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Y85lUBwzd_Tt_Rdr
How to download ant bms apk for Android
antbms.com:9090/softs/ant_bms_android_last.apk
@@imho7250ios pls