this video is about the lubricants and penetrating oils i use commonly around the shop. here are some websites where this topic is discussed www.jalopyjourn... www.garagejourn...
i bought a product called "thrust", it was made by a company named Castle, i bought it at a gas station a long time ago. this stuff was hands down the best penetrating oil i have ever used, we were introduced to it in the US Navy way back in the 70's. there wasn't anything that it wouldn't penetrate into and free up. we had a piece of monel metal break off in a sleeve and after days of trying everything we could get our hands onto someone came up with this thrust, we sprayed it and waited 1/2 hour then pulled the shaft out with a come-along which could not move the stuck piece before. when the part broke free it sounded like an explosion.
The Aero Kroil works great for pulleys and other snug/press fit parts. I use it for harmonic balancers and timing belt pulleys. Spray it. leave it for 10-20 minutes and the pulley will pop loose.
ZEP 45 is the Best. I dismantled a 49 Oshkosh Snowblower Truck a couple years ago. I unbolted the entire thing using the ZEP 45!!! I tried them all, ZEP is the best. If anyone disagrees they haven't tried it yet.
I use Deep Creep with a propane torch to remove exhaust manifold nuts and bolts. Deep Creep is non-flammable and works extremely well. The candle trick also works really well to bolts and nuts that are in a vertical up and down position this will allow the candle wax to flow down into the bolt to free up the nut. I also used it to remove stuck spark plugs in a Ford truck 5.4 engine with a 1/4 air ratchet, low torque and didn't break a one. Hope this information helps someone out there.
The test of a penetrating oil is how well it penetrates a rusted fastened connection. Even water will creep up the exposed thread of a rusted bolt but that isn't an action by the oil. It's done by the rust absorbing the liquid. The way to test absorption of oil is to have threaded rods with nuts rusted solidly in place and measure how long it takes for the oils to work their way up through the rusted bolts. In general, the less waxy material is in an "oil" the faster it will be soaked up. A mix with acetone or alcohol will wick faster and further. Liquid Wrench uses Kerosene, PB Blaster originally used a blend of peanut oil and alcohol. Some newer penetrants use synthetic oils. However, what's normally required for a penetrating oil is not simple penetration, but lubrication. WD- 40 is not marketed as a penetrating oil but simply one that can soak through a rust layer to preserve intact metal beneath. Brake cleaner is a fast drying solvent used to rinc=se away grease from brake parts. It is not a lubricant. I've used Kroil, but not in a spray, which wastes most of the material. We got it in small capped containers, applied it with syringes by the drop waiting for that drop to be wicked into the joint before applying another one. It worked well, but perhaps it was because the method of application forced us to wait.
CRC Freeze off. It's the same concept as the brrr only a helluva lot cheaper, like 7 bucks a can I think. And it's actually a penetrant as well, so it climbs threads probably better than the brrr. It works almost immediately too. Best damn penetrating oil I've ever used.
PB Blaster and TIME have always worked for me. I try to spray stuff a day before I need to remove it. learned that in shop years ago. we would go to a junkyard, spray what we needed and leave it overnight. come back the next day and you wouldn't even know it was tight. if you can, spray it a few times over the course of a day, like butter. I'm dying to try kroil though
Funny you mention the motor oil. I was at a customers house that had a pad locked gate and they left a key. There was corrosion on the lock where I couldn't even fit the key inside. I didn't have any lubes on me so I used my dip stick from my truck to drop oil inside the lock and it worked!
You overlooked the best penetrating oil, cleaner on the market... Gibbs. It also does one hell of a job on preserving as well. It is well worth trying out, as you won't ever go back to what once was your favorite.
i have heard of Gibbs but it is not sold around here i would have to look for it online. all i hear about it is good stuff from the people who know of it.
We used a product called "Break free" in a pump bottle when I work at Air Force Fighter Depot repair. It worked very well and we couldn't use heat with it as a rule. It is hard to find. Liquid Wrench Freeze Off is easy to find and works very good, with or without heat. WD-40 is very flammable so be very careful if you are using torch. Mediocre as a penetrate IMO.
I used Slick 50 lubricant after trying out WD-40, and Liquid Wrench to loosen the castors on a shop jack. The Slick 50 was the one which worked the best for me, but can't find any more of it for some reason. It was the only one to loosen the bolts on the jack for me, and I sure wish that I had purchased more than one can at the time.
I had a frozen control arm to strut bolt. I used a lot of propane heat, wd-40, Liquid Wrench, and PB Blaster several times to no avail. Your suggestion of the ATF/Acetone and a 5 hour soak loosened the bolt and life if good again. Thank you.
try Amsoil MP Areosal goes on wet and evaporates and becomes a dry film lubricant. just has to set for awhile.I have used it on exhust systems and rusted tools and rusty gun parts with the best results.
I use the Kroil when ever something is rusted tight but it the only thing I use to lubricate my micrometers. Zippo Vargo posted a video about WD40 and using the new spray nozzle on the PB Blaster can.
Todd it is amazing the uses that we can come up with for things if we think hard enough.. just yesterday i remembered to use the wd-40 on my hand saw when cutting, been a long time since i have done that.
You should try KB-88 from LPS Laboratories. It has one of the highest solvency values on the market and works so much faster than PB Blaster, Kroil, CRC Knocker loose and other products on the market. Look at the TH-cam video comparison for some examples.
Just my $.02. wd40 is cutting oil for machining aluminum, liquid wrench is a kerosene based lock lube, pb blaster is awesome at removing a light film of rust from a crankshaft, pb80 is my pen. oil of choice. There is one thing i struggle with which is aluminum around steel 1 example is a snowmobile secondary clutch on a steel shaft. I can put them in a 20 ton press and cannot get them apart. The way to do these is by heating the aluminum up as far as possible then dropping them into a bucket of water. (shocking the metal) I'm getting a can of crc freeze off to try.
Those are all crap compared to candle wax. Heat the thing up just enough to melt the wax and the wax will wick right into the threads. I was skeptical til I tried it myself. It works so good that it seems almost magical. A little heat from a propane torch coupled with some candle wax made a rusty ass lawnmower deck spindle with 12 years of use on it loosen up and un-thread almost effortlessly. I have no idea why the candlewax trick isn't common knowledge. As far as I'm concerned, WD-40 can go in the trash unless you have a car with an old fashioned distributor cap. The rest of the "penetrating oils" might have slight usefullness as lubricants for drilling holes in steel but that's about it. If you need to remove rust from bolts once they're free, then a good soak in some vinegar or the wire wheel on the old bench grinder (or both) will do better than any penetrating oil will. Actually...I have used PB Blaster to kill carpenter bees up inside their nests...so I'll be hanging on to that one. I recommend you try the candle wax trick. I think you'll be amazed.
U sound like Ralph Macchio. ALSO you pointed at the Wrong bolt. The WD40 was the one to the left of the dried out bolt. The WD40 was the one you said was still wet.
Going to try your 50/50 have heard of it before. I have a rusted antique pistol with buggered up screw heads. Going to soak it in the mix and check it each day. Think im going to heat the pistol in the oven first then put it in the solution. But not hot enough to flash of course. 150 to 180 degrees.
By far the best rust penetrant on market is a product only available from a company called Lawson Products. The product is called "Open & Shut Rust Penetrant". It is the fastest working, most consistent penetrant I've ever seen. Price wise it is about $12 per 20 oz. can. As an added benefit, Open& Shut is non-flammable and will not conduct electricity, making it more functional around hot engines, flame and electrical devices. Areo Kroil has good marketing, but is not any more effective than PB Blaster, and is far and away alesser penetrant than Open & Shut. Contact Lawson Products to get some.
Only thing I use liquid wrench on is any tool of some sort that ended up getting spotty light rust and it does the job, other wise I just use PB blaster, the foaming engine degreaser stuff works pretty quickly,not sure the brand I had but I used it on a sticky dirty carb and with in minutes the throttle piece was free and the grime was coming right off
Hello, any advise to set free a bicycle aluminum post stuck into a carbon fiber frame? These two materials tend to bond with time. I just ordered PB Blaster as reccommended by someone.
never dealt with that situation myself. no way you can beat it down on it with a board and a mallet? i can't say that any particular spray method will do much good or not. i would maybe stay away from my acetone solution as i am not sure how it will react with your carbon fiber. anyone else got ideas or experience?
I used PB Blaster and sprayed it once let it sit for 5 minutes and it didn't work and i got impatient a bit but then i had a whole bottle that costed 3 bucks... so i just sprayed it heavily and i let it sit for like 15 minutes and it worked. Honestly its a 3 dollar bottle spray the shit out of it if you cant get it to work
i bought a product called "thrust", it was made by a company named Castle, i bought it at a gas station a long time ago. this stuff was hands down the best penetrating oil i have ever used, we were introduced to it in the US Navy way back in the 70's. there wasn't anything that it wouldn't penetrate into and free up. we had a piece of monel metal break off in a sleeve and after days of trying everything we could get our hands onto someone came up with this thrust, we sprayed it and waited 1/2 hour then pulled the shaft out with a come-along which could not move the stuck piece before. when the part broke free it sounded like an explosion.
www.amazon.com/Castle-Thrust-Penetrating-Oil-15-75/dp/B000KKLM1Q
5:45 RIP headphone users...
The Aero Kroil works great for pulleys and other snug/press fit parts. I use it for harmonic balancers and timing belt pulleys. Spray it. leave it for 10-20 minutes and the pulley will pop loose.
A little FYI, Acetone is also used as fingernail polish remover. Look for the one that is 100 percent acetone.
ZEP 45 is the Best. I dismantled a 49 Oshkosh Snowblower Truck a couple years ago. I unbolted the entire thing using the ZEP 45!!! I tried them all, ZEP is the best. If anyone disagrees they haven't tried it yet.
Have you tried Torq CB?
I use Deep Creep with a propane torch to remove exhaust manifold nuts and bolts. Deep Creep is non-flammable and works extremely well. The candle trick also works really well to bolts and nuts that are in a vertical up and down position this will allow the candle wax to flow down into the bolt to free up the nut. I also used it to remove stuck spark plugs in a Ford truck 5.4 engine with a 1/4 air ratchet, low torque and didn't break a one. Hope this information helps someone out there.
The test of a penetrating oil is how well it penetrates a rusted fastened connection. Even water will creep up the exposed thread of a rusted bolt but that isn't an action by the oil. It's done by the rust absorbing the liquid.
The way to test absorption of oil is to have threaded rods with nuts rusted solidly in place and measure how long it takes for the oils to work their way up through the rusted bolts. In general, the less waxy material is in an "oil" the faster it will be soaked up. A mix with acetone or alcohol will wick faster and further.
Liquid Wrench uses Kerosene, PB Blaster originally used a blend of peanut oil and alcohol. Some newer penetrants use synthetic oils.
However, what's normally required for a penetrating oil is not simple penetration, but lubrication.
WD- 40 is not marketed as a penetrating oil but simply one that can soak through a rust layer to preserve intact metal beneath. Brake cleaner is a fast drying solvent used to rinc=se away grease from brake parts. It is not a lubricant.
I've used Kroil, but not in a spray, which wastes most of the material. We got it in small capped containers, applied it with syringes by the drop waiting for that drop to be wicked into the joint before applying another one. It worked well, but perhaps it was because the method of application forced us to wait.
Wait all those oils, and you didn't think to try 2-cycle oil? That's the secret weapon for rust! Better than anything I've seen on the market
CRC Freeze off. It's the same concept as the brrr only a helluva lot cheaper, like 7 bucks a can I think. And it's actually a penetrant as well, so it climbs threads probably better than the brrr. It works almost immediately too. Best damn penetrating oil I've ever used.
Have been using Innotec Deblock oil for years. Far better than anything else that I have ever come across - by a far margin
In my opinion Torq CB by Kimball Midwest is the best, and I have used a bunch of them on small very rust threads
PB Blaster and TIME have always worked for me. I try to spray stuff a day before I need to remove it. learned that in shop years ago. we would go to a junkyard, spray what we needed and leave it overnight. come back the next day and you wouldn't even know it was tight. if you can, spray it a few times over the course of a day, like butter. I'm dying to try kroil though
Love your title, I can't see Snap-on worrying too much after watching your vid.
The camera moved around so much I almost lost my equilibrium and fell on my ass.
Funny you mention the motor oil. I was at a customers house that had a pad locked gate and they left a key. There was corrosion on the lock where I couldn't even fit the key inside. I didn't have any lubes on me so I used my dip stick from my truck to drop oil inside the lock and it worked!
that is awesome! never thought of a dipstick in a situation like that. ill keep that one in memory!
You overlooked the best penetrating oil, cleaner on the market... Gibbs.
It also does one hell of a job on preserving as well.
It is well worth trying out, as you won't ever go back to what once was your favorite.
i have heard of Gibbs but it is not sold around here i would have to look for it online. all i hear about it is good stuff from the people who know of it.
That's my 1st time hearing about gibbs and I looked it up on amazon and it has good reviews. Do you think gibbs is better than kroll or pb blaster?
@@stocks4bt It's the only thing I use. If it doesn't work, you need a rust dissolver.
We used a product called "Break free" in a pump bottle when I work at Air Force Fighter Depot repair. It worked very well and we couldn't use heat with it as a rule. It is hard to find. Liquid Wrench Freeze Off is easy to find and works very good, with or without heat. WD-40 is very flammable so be very careful if you are using torch. Mediocre as a penetrate IMO.
I used Slick 50 lubricant after trying out WD-40, and Liquid Wrench to loosen the castors on a shop jack. The Slick 50 was the one which worked the best for me, but can't find any more of it for some reason. It was the only one to loosen the bolts on the jack for me, and I sure wish that I had purchased more than one can at the time.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you!
I had a frozen control arm to strut bolt. I used a lot of propane heat, wd-40, Liquid Wrench, and PB Blaster several times to no avail. Your suggestion of the ATF/Acetone and a 5 hour soak loosened the bolt and life if good again. Thank you.
I watched all the way up until you decided to give my eardrums a CHECK✔📣📢🙉😳
🙀😳😖☠💀🧟♀️ THX!
Moving on.
I have used many different products as well. My top 3 are in from best to worst(still good)are seafoam deep creep ,marvel mystery oil, pb blaster
I can testify that the ATF/Acetone mix works very very well. I don't buy penetrating oil since I discovered it.
Try that next to 2-cycle oil, and let me know how they compare
the best is that which is put on the night before or a couple days before
try Amsoil MP Areosal goes on wet and evaporates and becomes a dry film lubricant. just has to set for awhile.I have used it on exhust systems and rusted tools and rusty gun parts with the best results.
From Thomas thank you for the message.
I use the Kroil when ever something is rusted tight but it the only thing I use to lubricate my micrometers.
Zippo Vargo posted a video about WD40 and using the new spray nozzle on the PB Blaster can.
Todd it is amazing the uses that we can come up with for things if we think hard enough.. just yesterday i remembered to use the wd-40 on my hand saw when cutting, been a long time since i have done that.
You should try KB-88 from LPS Laboratories. It has one of the highest solvency values on the market and works so much faster than PB Blaster, Kroil, CRC Knocker loose and other products on the market. Look at the TH-cam video comparison for some examples.
]knocker loose professional grade,is some good stuff] took apart exhaust manifold w/ socket &wrenches]
Thank You... your expert advice is appreciated.
You need to try kimball MIDWEST torq cb good cost and smells great
Just my $.02. wd40 is cutting oil for machining aluminum, liquid wrench is a kerosene based lock lube, pb blaster is awesome at removing a light film of rust from a crankshaft, pb80 is my pen. oil of choice. There is one thing i struggle with which is aluminum around steel 1 example is a snowmobile secondary clutch on a steel shaft. I can put them in a 20 ton press and cannot get them apart. The way to do these is by heating the aluminum up as far as possible then dropping them into a bucket of water. (shocking the metal) I'm getting a can of crc freeze off to try.
Those are all crap compared to candle wax. Heat the thing up just enough to melt the wax and the wax will wick right into the threads. I was skeptical til I tried it myself. It works so good that it seems almost magical. A little heat from a propane torch coupled with some candle wax made a rusty ass lawnmower deck spindle with 12 years of use on it loosen up and un-thread almost effortlessly. I have no idea why the candlewax trick isn't common knowledge. As far as I'm concerned, WD-40 can go in the trash unless you have a car with an old fashioned distributor cap. The rest of the "penetrating oils" might have slight usefullness as lubricants for drilling holes in steel but that's about it. If you need to remove rust from bolts once they're free, then a good soak in some vinegar or the wire wheel on the old bench grinder (or both) will do better than any penetrating oil will. Actually...I have used PB Blaster to kill carpenter bees up inside their nests...so I'll be hanging on to that one. I recommend you try the candle wax trick. I think you'll be amazed.
What is the exact name of brr breaker and who makes it, can't find it any where-HELP NEEDED !!!
WD - 40 is a Good hand cleaner also. I use it all the time at work to remove Heavy Stiff Oils & Gunk. then regular soap for fragrance.
Try Free-All or Kroil from napa works extremely well for hard rust
You have a great channel. SUBBED!!!
U sound like Ralph Macchio. ALSO you pointed at the Wrong bolt. The WD40 was the one to the left of the dried out bolt. The WD40 was the one you said was still wet.
Going to try your 50/50 have heard of it before. I have a rusted antique pistol with buggered up screw heads. Going to soak it in the mix and check it each day. Think im going to heat the pistol in the oven first then put it in the solution. But not hot enough to flash of course. 150 to 180 degrees.
let me know how that works, got my interest.
Did you try that? Did it work?
No they were solid drilled them out
WD-40 also works great if you have squeaky shoes or boots. Just spray it on a rag or shop towel and rub it in where you hear the squeak.
the best thing you can get is oil of wintergreen, its behind the counter at drug stores
91rss try fee all that the beat
Detco industries Prevent
When you decide to do another video on rust let me know
Kroil and Mouse Milk are my favourites, non-spray only.
I have always had good luck with PB Blaster but most of them are good .
At 5:45 the video glitches and it's loud, beware!
CRC Knock'er Loose Penetrating $9.49 a can...
Permatex Penetrating oil for $4.00 a can...
Acetone will eat paint!
By far the best rust penetrant on market is a product only available from a company called Lawson Products. The product is called "Open & Shut Rust Penetrant". It is the fastest working, most consistent penetrant I've ever seen. Price wise it is about $12 per 20 oz. can. As an added benefit, Open& Shut is non-flammable and will not conduct electricity, making it more functional around hot engines, flame and electrical devices. Areo Kroil has good marketing, but is not any more effective than PB Blaster, and is far and away alesser penetrant than Open & Shut. Contact Lawson Products to get some.
Only thing I use liquid wrench on is any tool of some sort that ended up getting spotty light rust and it does the job, other wise I just use PB blaster, the foaming engine degreaser stuff works pretty quickly,not sure the brand I had but I used it on a sticky dirty carb and with in minutes the throttle piece was free and the grime was coming right off
Thanks for the tip. I'm going to try it.
Which is the best to open a stopcock with?
sounds like Muppet labs with Beaker
I don't know whaty dad used when I was a kid 50 years ago but it worked and my dad called it skunk piss.
What about Releaseall and Jigaloo?
will it only break it lose if there's rust? what about other things like shower stem valves due to carbon build up or mineral deposits?
all penetrating oils and chemicals will work on different types of corrosion but may work more slowly depending on materials and reactions.
think the atf acetone mix would work on a stuck trailer hitch?
Hello, any advise to set free a bicycle aluminum post stuck into a carbon fiber frame? These two materials tend to bond with time. I just ordered PB Blaster as reccommended by someone.
never dealt with that situation myself. no way you can beat it down on it with a board and a mallet? i can't say that any particular spray method will do much good or not. i would maybe stay away from my acetone solution as i am not sure how it will react with your carbon fiber. anyone else got ideas or experience?
Thought about riding your bike off of a curb repeatedly?
Bubbadude -- One time into the path of a dump truck should take care of the problem.
Kroil rocks!
Royal Purple!
hey you have to try kimnall midwest torq cb
they make great stuff! best brake solvent I've ever used!
they make great stuff! best brake solvent I've ever used!
they make great stuff! best brake solvent I've ever used!
shame you cant just buy it anywhere
I agree, Torq CB is the best.
Has anyone used open and shut penetrating oil?
Where is the test??
I used PB Blaster and sprayed it once let it sit for 5 minutes and it didn't work and i got impatient a bit but then i had a whole bottle that costed 3 bucks... so i just sprayed it heavily and i let it sit for like 15 minutes and it worked. Honestly its a 3 dollar bottle spray the shit out of it if you cant get it to work
WeKnowTheTruth2012 ĺ
have any of you guys heard of freeall to me hands down that is the best
]"knockerloose" professional grade],broke apart exhaust manifold nuts, w/sockets &wrenches]
Anybody ever try Superzilla? It's expensive, but I'd like to know if it's worth it.
Cuz atf is like 90% soap.10 % oil
Use Only In A Well Ventilated Area
I love jb80
I'll bet it has cocacola in it
One person's opinion without any proof.
Where's the Qmaxx?
You exchanged WD40 for PB Blaster
You forgot to show "Free" from Certified Labs
B
WD40 is garbage straight out
Bad video from 5:45 to 6:43.
A lot of uhh's