Formulating with Acids IPCS
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2024
- Join Belinda Carli, Director of the Institute of Personal Care Science and Cosmetic Formulator, as she shows you how to incorporate various acid materials (AHAs and BHAs) into formulations. Belinda also explains some of the key compatibility, safety and regulatory considerations when formulating with acids to help ensure suitable end use products. Peel away the difficulties of formulating with acids and learn to formulate successful, efficacious and stable acid formulations with Belinda!
Learn how to formulate with Belinda and the team at the Institute of Personal Care Science! For a copy of this formulation and course information, email info@personalcarescience.com.au or visit www.personalcarescience.com.au
Happy formulating!
Perfect explanation!! now I have a really better understanding.
Glad you enjoyed!
So i can just skip preservative in acid formulas?
Thanks Belinda
Wonderful video! I have never heard of Tragacanth or Succinoglycan before and I hope I can find them here in the US. I love my rheology modifiers, they great for adding stability, viscosity, and slip. So I am always looking for new ones to try! I am a huge fan of Sepinov EMT, especially for something that requires a lower pH.
I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge because there are way too many people sharing information that is wrong and harmful. Like using tap water and no preservative and their video or blog will have a lot of likes and comments. It's frustrating because it can lead to staph of other infections and a lot of people just don't know better and don't think it all the way through.
Thanks for watching!
Belinda, would you consider doing a video on formulating with Azelaic
acid? From what I've read, it is a great acid for many applications, but I also understand it is difficult to work with to actually gain the benefits. Thank you!
Thank you for this idea, we’ll see if it fits into our video schedule. In the meantime, you can learn with us. ! Please contact us for course information and which course is going to best suit you: info@personalcarescience.com.au
Love seeing these examples.
Thank you for watching!
Hi .m really love your videos.
Informative and sincere. I learned a lot
Thank you so much
I have a question about the gums used .. is it ok to use carrageenan instead .. it is the only gum I have in hand meanwhile plus I like the way it feels in the finished product
Carrageenan is not normally suited to low pH environments, it probably won't perform with acids.
Hi belinda, i loved watching ur video ...
I always disolved Salicylic Acid with Propelene Glycol, without any heat at all ..
A lot of people don't want to use propylene glycol, so I'm showing alternatives, thanks for adding your comment for other users though! Happy formulating.
hi can i ask if im using 1.5 % of salicylic acid, how much propylene glycol do i need to dissolve it ?
@@janelleong1485 its deepend on how much salicylic acid you want to use, just ad +1 gr of the propelene, i just consider the propelene as my humactant 🙏🙏🙏
@@Johanna-cx3zp ohhh i see! Thankyou sm!
Great video! Thank you.... But I have a question. If instead of a serum an AHA lotion was made in the same acidic environment, would you still omit the preservative? Thanks
It depends on what the final pH is - if above 3, a preservative will be needed.
very useful and scientific information thank you madam'
Thank you very much
Hello Belinda! Love this one. You say a non anionic emulsifier should be used--assuming one is making a cream containing AHA--which emulsifier would be best to use for this low pH? Thank you for your time!
You only use non-ionic emulsifiers with low pH systems because anionic systems rely on charge repulsion which is compacted - to the point if ineffectiveness - when a lot of electrolytes are present. Non-ionic emulsifiers are also very mild so it increases skin compatibility of the formula.
@@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401 What about using a Cationic emulsifier? From what I understand they offer better skin conditioning, but are they compatible with acids?
Very interesting video !
Just a question... If I add my acid(s) to the water phase, does it means that I can heat acids to make an emulsion next ?
Thank you !
You can learn this in full detail by studying with us - all online - learn anywhere in the world! Please contact us for course information and which course is going to best suit you: info@personalcarescience.com.au
Thank you for the useful information, what a bout carbapol 490? Is it possible to use ?
Thank you for watching. You can learn this in full detail by studying with us - all online - learn anywhere in the world! Please contact us for course information and which course is going to best suit you: info@personalcarescience.com.au
Thank you for sharing. I have guar gum, is it recommended for this formulation, if it is,then at what concentration and what stage do I add it?
Thanks for watching! Please remember you can contact us for the full formula, method and supplier details - FREE! info@personalcarescience.com.au
Happy formulating!
Question about lowering PH for lactic acid. What’s the best method and easiest?
Also I was told Hyaluronic acid isn’t an AHA and can’t be counted as one when it’s in combo with glycolic acid & lactic acid.
For more information on how to test pH, please watch this video: th-cam.com/video/kwvLAK3KauM/w-d-xo.html and to make buffer solutions please watch the end of this video: Beginners cosmetic science lecture 1: th-cam.com/video/s0I7ZsGqUhk/w-d-xo.html You may also find this video useful: Should cosmetics be diluted to test pH: th-cam.com/video/8ehi-7prATM/w-d-xo.html
hi belinda.
first of all thank you for your efforts and time to help us getting better 🙏.
for me i do as you said, i dissolve S.A in propanediol in 1/10 ratio and i add it to my face mask with xanthan gum (0,5%) as a stabilizer but the mask becomes very sticky and soaping a lot on my skin, and i think this is bcs of xanthan gum.
my question is, are alcohols can work well as stabilizers cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol... instead of xanthan gum?
thank you in advance Belinda
It depends on what else you have in the formula. You can learn more about making correct ingredient selections by studying our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/
Hi, Belinda. Thank you for posting. I think that if you did another video solely devoted to salicylic acid (and preventing crystallization in toners/gels), it would be very, very popular.
Thank you for the suggestion, I'll see if I can add this to my list. You may also enjoy this video: How to make a face scrub th-cam.com/video/H5LoKsUCwiA/w-d-xo.html
Hi Belinda, does the same protocol apply to L-Pyroglutamic Acid, when formulating skincare? If not which phase does this go into or step when formulating? And how much would I need to formulate a 4 oz clay cleanser?
No - use sodium PCA instead, and formulate to allow for the electrolytes from this material. Learn how to formulate professional skincare using high end actives with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
Hi Belinda, would it be appropriate to use a 5% glycolic or AHA concentration in a toner. Can a 5% solution be used in a leave in product? Thx'
Janine
Hi JC, no, I wouldn't recommend this - for 2 reasons. 1. to be effective, the formula would need to be around pH 3.5 which is too low for leave on, it would cause irritation and 2. in its active form, at the low pH, it would be irritating when left on. As an extra information point, the other issue you would have with putting it in a leave on product is that if you adjusted the pH to be more skin compatible (e.g. even at pH 5) your glycolic acid or AHA is no longer effective - so you may as well not have it in there! So no, to be effective, it should be at the low pH and then only on the skin for a short time. Please contact us for more information: info@personalcarescience.com.au there are also great chemical exfoliants from extracts that are effective at more skin compatible pH that can be left on! Please contact us to find out more, happy formulating!
Hi Belinda, in your CreateCosmetics program, which one would I select that has a chemical exfoliato formular? One without abrasive particles. Like an enzyme gel formula?
Formulating with acids is very advanced, and has safety and stability concepts you should learn properly with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ :)
What's your opinion on adding Salicylic acid (SA) powder directly to a finished emulsion (vs dissolving)? Many raw material sellers say this is possible, but my experience has been the SA doesn't completely dissolve and the finished product has noticeable white bits of powder.
I prefer to make sure it is dissolved first and then check it after the formula has been finalised especially with pH adjustments.
hello, how long should contact time be at most when using an acidic product ?
It depends on the final pH, what acid is used, what else is used in the formula (e.g. mildness additives) and also the skin type of the user. 5-15 minutes is the 'norm' but it totally depends on low-high input of acids, final pH, what else is in the formula and their skin type/age so please test specific to your product and the target consumers it is intended for. Also note, if they start to feel too much irritation, then its time to remove regardless! These types of products do need to be tested for safety first, always, to help you determine the correct time of application. I hope this helps.
Where did you get your whisk? I love it.
We have this video all about equipment (from beginners to advanced): th-cam.com/video/Yj7Q0WTr2X8/w-d-xo.html - please watch this video as Belinda explains all about the equipment and what to look for when purchasing equipment (from beginners to advanced needs).
Hi Belinda, Can I use guar gum in this products? Thanks for your help.
Yes you can. Please email us for full formulation, method and supplier details: info@personalcarescience.com.au we provide this free. Happy formulating!
If I understand correctly, the final pH of the product should be < 3.85 pH to maximize the bioavailability of salicylic acid? What is the lowest pH to prevent chemical (acid) burns? Thanks
We’re happy to provide the full formula, ingredient, supplier, input and method details, please email us: info@personalcarescience.com.au and we can send you a link to access ALL our free formulas and reports. Happy formulating!
Hi Belinda, working with SA, if you choose to dissolve with Ethanol will the alcohol smell transfer into the finished product? Thanks :)
There could be some residual smell - it depends what else is in your formula. It is more that this can be drying, which for some oily skin types can be helpful, but could leave the skin a little red. I prefer to use humectants because it leaves the skin soft and supple, but not greasy. You can learn more about acid formulation with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/ Happy formulating!
so the comparison for salicylic solvent is 1:5?, salicylic 1 and spiritus fortior 5, and we stir until completely dissolved the salicylic crystals?
We’re happy to provide the full formula, ingredient, supplier, input and method details, please email us: info@personalcarescience.com.au and we can send you a link to access ALL our free formulas and reports. Happy formulating!
Is there a video o/w emulsion using salicylic acid?
We have a face scrub with salicylic acid which is a o/w emulsion. Here is the link: th-cam.com/video/H5LoKsUCwiA/w-d-xo.html
Please email us for full formulation, method and supplier details: info@personalcarescience.com.au we provide this free. Happy formulating!
Hi! Is using L-LA as a humectant at pH5,5 fine?
You can learn this in full detail by studying with us - all online - learn anywhere in the world! Please contact us for course information and which course is going to best suit you: info@personalcarescience.com.au
I’ve had a formulator insist that partially neutralising salicylic acid to around 6-6.5 when formulating is fine as the acid mantle metabolises it back into its acid form. Is this not entirely accurate in your opinion?
No - I have not seen any evidence that would suggest this is the case. I am basing it on the bio availability both with in the formula and when applied to the skin. I’m open to receiving evidence that would suggest otherwise but I have not seen any.
Institute of personal care plz guide us about soaps which are formulate by salicylic acid and theirs soaps ph around 10 to 12 are they effective??
Thank you for this idea, we’ll see if it fits into our video schedule. In the meantime, you can learn with us. Please contact us for course information and which course is going to best suit you: info@personalcarescience.com.au
@@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401
I really want to learn from you
I will soon Arrange money and will get admission soon inshAllah
I tried to dissolve SA (1.5%) in propanediol (7.5%). I heated it to dissolve and it turned light purple but it did dissolve. However, everytime I added something it recrystallized. I only added rose water, glycerin, and witch hazel to create a toner. What am I doing wrong?
Hi Lisa, it is not an easy material to work with. It is better in an emulsion or gel than toner. Try dissolving it first then adding to the water phase too, then emulsify (if making an emulsion) and evaluate after a few days. Remember to keep the pH low, that could be the issue too - and check pH after a few days to ensure it stays low. There is also a biogenics encapsulated version that is easy to work with and suits a higher pH - I have a video on this in the encapsulation video series, please watch this too! Happy formulating :)
The Institute of Personal Care Science thank you! I'll watch the video. I came across a product that combines it with a surfactant which makes it easier to solubilize.
Is that 100% glycolic acid that you are adding to the 90% water solution? Or did you have to adjust for, say, a 70% glycolic acid solution?
We’re happy to provide the full formula, ingredient, supplier, input and method details, please email us: info@personalcarescience.com.au and we can send you a link to access ALL our free formulas and reports. Happy formulating!
How can i use them without making my cream or soap turned watering
Thank you for watching. You can learn this in full detail by studying with us - all online - learn anywhere in the world! Please contact us for course information and which course is going to best suit you: info@personalcarescience.com.au
You can also get your formulation questions answered LIVE with Belinda, join our Patreon channel here: www.patreon.com/personalcarescience
Can we use these thickners for lactic acid as well ?
Yes potentially - remember to always prepare a small sample to check suitability first. We will have an acids video out shortly covering this topic, please subscribe to be notified. You can learn how to formulate professionally with advanced materials like acids, and then check suitability and stability, with our Certificate in Advanced Cosmetic Science: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/CertificateinAdvancedCosmeticScience-478/ or Diploma of Personal Care Formulation: personalcarescience.com.au/CosmeticScience/DiplomaofPersonalCareFormulation-479/
How do you know to put 6.35% to equal 5%? Is there a formula to figure that out?
Thanks for watching! Please contact us for the full formula, method and supplier details - FREE! info@personalcarescience.com.au Happy formulating!
It's 6.25% not 6.35%
If lactic acid is 80% active and we want 5 percent concentration in our toner, then
100/80=1.25
Multiple the answer with how much percent we want
Say we want 5 percent concentration.
1.25*5=6.25
We need to add 6.25% lactic acid to get 5% concentration
which emulsifying agent do you recommend for acidic lotion ?
Thank you for watching but in order to provide you with specific advice we do need to review your exact situation and allocate time to do so, please purchase consulting time here: personalcarescience.com.au/Advice/cosmeticformulation,brandadvice-797/ And we’ll be in touch to discuss the next steps. Happy formulating!
Could i use carbomer 980?
Hi Gina, definitely not! Carbomer needs to be neutralised to a specific pH and then not adjusted further otherwise you'll lose all viscosity and stability - it will turn water thin. You do need to use a polymer that can handle the acid/electrolyte environment. Happy formulating.
@@theinstituteofpersonalcare6401 ok o have ordered spimax zen Im hoping that will do it. I know the carbomer has tl be neutralized to a certain PH in order to gell. I dont think i was thinking, however i have not yet worked with sepimax but says the ph is ok and doesnt have to be neutralized. That should work right? Thank you for relying
Hi @@gigigigi5181 Sepimax Zen is my go-to polymer for ANY challenging environment when I can use a synthetic material. This will thicken ANYTHING regardless of pH or electrolytes, it really is amazing! Happy formulating!