I began riding over 40 years ago. I've not ridden regularly in a couple of decades. Stretched Out, Lowered KZ100s similar to yours, well, takes a lot of passion to build. My favorite since I discovered the KZ100 Classic.
I agree with you that this bike looks great as a hotrod. There isn't that much in resale value in this orientation, but l love the look of it anyway. This is the only bike I've owned for the last 32 years so I'm setting it up the way that makes me happy. I bought another one to fix and try selling. It seems the real value is in stock restorations. Do you have a KZ you would consider selling?
Great video. She would look so good with a short A1 chrome grab bar. I'm a big fan of the grab bars. All 3 of my bikes have them. I love to see new video's of the kz bikes most on the Tube are like 3+ year's old. Thanks for posting
I agree, everytime I go looking for KZ videos the same ones keep popping up. How about less shuffle dance videos and more cool motorcycle stuff on youtube.
To remove the Piston use a EASY OUT it gets tapped lightly in piston hole and it will grab when you turn it.....Works so nice and use PB BLASTER and then a soft round wire drill attachment to clean the cavity
Looking good. I own a 75’ running Z1b. We’ll sort of running, the fuel tees between the carbs are leaking and need to be replace. Plus my battery by now is probably dead. I don’t know if you’ll see this comment, but I’d like to know where you got the gunfighter seat.
@chrismoody1342 Thanks for the compliment. Lucky for you, there is still a pretty wide selection of bike and carb parts still available. Getting the tees or a rebuild kit shouldn't be difficult. The seat is an LTD seat I had reupholstered several years ago. I had the foam shaved down for a more stream lined look. I've taken that seat off and installed a flat KZ seat recently. If you're interested, I have a couple of good LDT seat pans that would need upholstery, or I would part with the seat you're commenting on. Let me know.
I have the same problem with mine, it’ll work for like a month until it runs out of fluid from leaking, already rebuilt it. Might end up just converting to a newer style master cylinder. Mines an ‘80 1000. Just saw you’re other video with the part numbers, I’ll go that route instead, thanks
It's a fast rebuild with the correct parts. Good luck with the repairs, and thanks for the ZPower tip. I'm always on the hunt for sellers of KZ parts and this is a new one to me.
@@KZRevival you can’t go wrong at ZPower. Bought most of the replacement parts from them during Lockdown and they were very helpful when I got stuck. Only the carbs to sort then Z is back on the road for the summer.
Just finished the job. Could of left it alone as the piston and seal were in good condition but hey, get it done as I have the parts. That bloody retaining spring was a pain!!
@crunchboxdan Now you have piece of mind for the next 30 years. I'm dealing with a project bike rear master cylinder that is seized, and I can't get the piston out. Wish me luck and have a good riding season.
@@KZRevival use an air compressor with a dust nossle. Hold it in the banjo bolt hole and it’ll push it out. Did this with my brake callipers to pop the stuck piston out. Doing the front brake next.
Excellent and timely video seeing as I'm dealing with a plethora of these at the moment. Worth noting there are two different sizes for rear master cylinders depending on the year/model. For example, the 1979 Kawasaki (K)Z1000 MK2 A3(A) which I'm working on now was fitted with a 5/8" rear master cylinder from the factory, whereas the same year Kawasaki (K)Z650 C3 uses a 14mm rear master cyclinder. Both master cylinders were manufactured by TOKIKO, so it pays to checked the stamping on the master cylinder and then order the correct kit. Also worth noting, there appear to be lots of rebuld kits for the 5/8" versions but I'm struggling to find them for the 14mm, so would appreciate links to where you were able to source your kit. Finally, if you fancy checking out what we get up to here in Australia, jump on our TH-cam channel here: www.youtube.com/@policebikes
Thanks for the information. My rear master cylinder is stamped Tokico Japan 5/8. I ordered 2 rebuild kits, and both leaked past the cup seals. One was from Z1 Parts, and the other was from Z1 Enterprises. They appeared to be identical kits as the cup seals looked the same and neither fit very well. I took a chance on an expensive kit from a website in Britain that is no longer up. Those parts had a very snug fit and no longer leaked. They are genuine Kawasaki parts, and i listed the part numbers at the end of an update video about this rebuild. Here is the link. th-cam.com/video/I9FIx7dxego/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wksJ9JvdDlwRdofN Thanks for the link. I will check out your channel.
I saw the kit from Brakecraters, and it's the same one Z1 Enterprises has. I can tell by the rubber nub on the back side of the cup seal. I had a seal problem with that particular cup seal and the seal on the piston. I don't know why my rear master cylinder is different, but it is, and multiple seals with the nub would leak. I made an updated rear master cylinder video, and I gave part numbers for the seals that worked for me. If you have a leak problem with this kit, try the part numbers I list at the very end of the rear master cylinder update video. Good luck
The site I bought from no longer exits. I made an "Update" video, and at the very end, I show my list of individual part numbers. If you order just what you need, you may save some money. th-cam.com/video/I9FIx7dxego/w-d-xo.htmlsi=srxiim65KS7gshMO
It looks like you put the Spring in backwards the big end of the Spring should go up in the cup in the cup the end of the Spring with being with the weird tab on it goes to the bottom that may be part of your leakage problem also that star looking thing which I call a proportion valve Should not expose the holes in Kohl's in that small shaft the pressure will be passed ask those holes it was with that little star looking for portion Val That also may be part of your league's problem because the fluid when you let off the brake that kind of helps seal goes holes from blooding fluid bypass But I could've sworn you put that Spring in with the small end of it saving the rubber grammar when when the bigger end should be in the grammar I don't know man I just rebuilt mine and I videos it And I paid attention to how I took it apart it apart and when it was coming apart the big end of the Spring was in the cup and the small end of the Spring was down was down in the bottom of the housing also that start looking flap was Covering the holes in the plunging shaftCorrect me if I'm wrong I may have done it wrong
I don't think it's backwards. I was very meticulous with my rebuild. I have a maintenance manual and I installed it as shown in the book. It's been in for a year and a half with no leaks and working very well. Thanks for checking out my videos.
What is the name of the company where you bought the kit for the rear master cylinder I've been looking for monthsWhat is the name of the company where you bought the kit for the rear master cylinder I've been looking for months Mine is an a 2 a model
Unfortunately it seems the link no longer works. It was "cybike.co.uk". I have an update to this video that I give individual part numbers at the end. You want to order the cup seal and the piston which has it's seal already on it.
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I began riding over 40 years ago. I've not ridden regularly in a couple of decades. Stretched Out, Lowered KZ100s similar to yours, well, takes a lot of passion to build. My favorite since I discovered the KZ100 Classic.
I agree with you that this bike looks great as a hotrod. There isn't that much in resale value in this orientation, but l love the look of it anyway. This is the only bike I've owned for the last 32 years so I'm setting it up the way that makes me happy. I bought another one to fix and try selling. It seems the real value is in stock restorations.
Do you have a KZ you would consider selling?
Great video. She would look so good with a short A1 chrome grab bar. I'm a big fan of the grab bars. All 3 of my bikes have them. I love to see new video's of the kz bikes most on the Tube are like 3+ year's old. Thanks for posting
I agree, everytime I go looking for KZ videos the same ones keep popping up. How about less shuffle dance videos and more cool motorcycle stuff on youtube.
@@KZRevival hahaha I hear ya man.
To remove the Piston use a EASY OUT it gets tapped lightly in piston hole and it will grab when you turn it.....Works so nice and use PB BLASTER and then a soft round wire drill attachment to clean the cavity
That's sounds like a tip I'm going to try. Thanks for the idea, I hope I can make it work.
Looking good. I own a 75’ running Z1b. We’ll sort of running, the fuel tees between the carbs are leaking and need to be replace. Plus my battery by now is probably dead. I don’t know if you’ll see this comment, but I’d like to know where you got the gunfighter seat.
@chrismoody1342 Thanks for the compliment. Lucky for you, there is still a pretty wide selection of bike and carb parts still available. Getting the tees or a rebuild kit shouldn't be difficult. The seat is an LTD seat I had reupholstered several years ago. I had the foam shaved down for a more stream lined look. I've taken that seat off and installed a flat KZ seat recently. If you're interested, I have a couple of good LDT seat pans that would need upholstery, or I would part with the seat you're commenting on. Let me know.
I have the same problem with mine, it’ll work for like a month until it runs out of fluid from leaking, already rebuilt it. Might end up just converting to a newer style master cylinder. Mines an ‘80 1000. Just saw you’re other video with the part numbers, I’ll go that route instead, thanks
I'm glad to help. I hope the parts I listed help correct your leak. Good luck.
I’m just about to do the same pal. Got the rebuild kit from ZPower.
It's a fast rebuild with the correct parts. Good luck with the repairs, and thanks for the ZPower tip. I'm always on the hunt for sellers of KZ parts and this is a new one to me.
@@KZRevival you can’t go wrong at ZPower. Bought most of the replacement parts from them during Lockdown and they were very helpful when I got stuck. Only the carbs to sort then Z is back on the road for the summer.
Just finished the job. Could of left it alone as the piston and seal were in good condition but hey, get it done as I have the parts. That bloody retaining spring was a pain!!
@crunchboxdan Now you have piece of mind for the next 30 years. I'm dealing with a project bike rear master cylinder that is seized, and I can't get the piston out. Wish me luck and have a good riding season.
@@KZRevival use an air compressor with a dust nossle. Hold it in the banjo bolt hole and it’ll push it out. Did this with my brake callipers to pop the stuck piston out. Doing the front brake next.
Excellent and timely video seeing as I'm dealing with a plethora of these at the moment.
Worth noting there are two different sizes for rear master cylinders depending on the year/model. For example, the 1979 Kawasaki (K)Z1000 MK2 A3(A) which I'm working on now was fitted with a 5/8" rear master cylinder from the factory, whereas the same year Kawasaki (K)Z650 C3 uses a 14mm rear master cyclinder. Both master cylinders were manufactured by TOKIKO, so it pays to checked the stamping on the master cylinder and then order the correct kit.
Also worth noting, there appear to be lots of rebuld kits for the 5/8" versions but I'm struggling to find them for the 14mm, so would appreciate links to where you were able to source your kit.
Finally, if you fancy checking out what we get up to here in Australia, jump on our TH-cam channel here: www.youtube.com/@policebikes
Thanks for the information. My rear master cylinder is stamped Tokico Japan 5/8. I ordered 2 rebuild kits, and both leaked past the cup seals. One was from Z1 Parts, and the other was from Z1 Enterprises. They appeared to be identical kits as the cup seals looked the same and neither fit very well. I took a chance on an expensive kit from a website in Britain that is no longer up. Those parts had a very snug fit and no longer leaked. They are genuine Kawasaki parts, and i listed the part numbers at the end of an update video about this rebuild. Here is the link.
th-cam.com/video/I9FIx7dxego/w-d-xo.htmlsi=wksJ9JvdDlwRdofN
Thanks for the link. I will check out your channel.
Z1 Enterprises wanted $200 for a rebuild kit for the rear i found the same kit from brake crafters for $65 on ebay
I saw the kit from Brakecraters, and it's the same one Z1 Enterprises has. I can tell by the rubber nub on the back side of the cup seal. I had a seal problem with that particular cup seal and the seal on the piston. I don't know why my rear master cylinder is different, but it is, and multiple seals with the nub would leak. I made an updated rear master cylinder video, and I gave part numbers for the seals that worked for me. If you have a leak problem with this kit, try the part numbers I list at the very end of the rear master cylinder update video. Good luck
I was wondering where did you get You're swing arm at
Sorry, the origin of the swingarm is unknown. I've had it for 30 years. I'm in the market for another one of a similar style if I can find one.
Do you recall the site you ordered from? The link no longer works.
The site I bought from no longer exits. I made an "Update" video, and at the very end, I show my list of individual part numbers. If you order just what you need, you may save some money.
th-cam.com/video/I9FIx7dxego/w-d-xo.htmlsi=srxiim65KS7gshMO
It looks like you put the Spring in backwards the big end of the Spring should go up in the cup in the cup the end of the Spring with being with the weird tab on it goes to the bottom that may be part of your leakage problem also that star looking thing which I call a proportion valve Should not expose the holes in Kohl's in that small shaft the pressure will be passed ask those holes it was with that little star looking for portion Val That also may be part of your league's problem because the fluid when you let off the brake that kind of helps seal goes holes from blooding fluid bypass But I could've sworn you put that Spring in with the small end of it saving the rubber grammar when when the bigger end should be in the grammar I don't know man I just rebuilt mine and I videos it And I paid attention to how I took it apart it apart and when it was coming apart the big end of the Spring was in the cup and the small end of the Spring was down was down in the bottom of the housing also that start looking flap was Covering the holes in the plunging shaftCorrect me if I'm wrong I may have done it wrong
I don't think it's backwards. I was very meticulous with my rebuild. I have a maintenance manual and I installed it as shown in the book. It's been in for a year and a half with no leaks and working very well. Thanks for checking out my videos.
What is the name of the company where you bought the kit for the rear master cylinder I've been looking for monthsWhat is the name of the company where you bought the kit for the rear master cylinder I've been looking for months Mine is an
a 2 a model
Unfortunately it seems the link no longer works. It was "cybike.co.uk". I have an update to this video that I give individual part numbers at the end. You want to order the cup seal and the piston which has it's seal already on it.