Took six or twelve months off Keith’s content. Came back for a peep and I hardly recognise him. A shadow of his former self to be sure! Hopefully for good reasons. This channel is still as great as ever.
Engles has steamed many wheels and wooden parts on his videos. Here is one of my favorites from a few years ago: th-cam.com/video/mHAbShWQ7JI/w-d-xo.html
I'm not at all surprised how true that wheel is. The general consensus is anything 100+ years old came from a barbaric time where precision was impossible while the truth is precision wasn't an option it was the only option. If anyone was wondering .180 is a bit less than 3/16". Pretty good for 120+ years and considering how dynamic wood is
Great Job, my OCD was going nuts due to the rough sides until you cleaned it up at the end. I nearly passed out with relief lol. Natural timber look with sealer will be beautiful.
A giant (to me, anyway) refurbished vintage machine being used to refurbish a different giant vintage machine. It's a such a satisfying thing to watch. I can only imagine how satisfying it must be to DO!
Keith, freight wagons used heated tires on the wooden wheels for durability, and they were installed in a similar fashion. Engels Coach Shop does this.
The steel tyre performs a more important purpose than durability, in that ,when it shrinks onto the rim ,it applies enormous compression on all the wooden parts and forces them together
After placing the rubber on, I would clean the wood rim edge again then spray clear lacquer once dried polish with Johnson Furniture wax. That would make a beautiful contrast in color to the black tires and spokes.
Keith, your inventiveness never ceases to amaze. Light natural finish on the sides and inner face will look beautiful. You can use a water based vinyl paint, dries quickly, sand, 2nd coat, fine sand and 3rd coat will be a smooth satin finish all within 2 hours. Pin striping will put the crowning touch to it. The rubber tire can be made from a thick rubber strip held on with adhesive. That is usually a rubber type. Don't use epoxy. The guy who has to change that tyre will curse you to eternity if you do. Would suggest you face the wheels with a very hard glossy paint to make replacement easier.There is one requirement - the joint is perfect. Good Job, well done.
This is very awesome to see that massive wheel in the Bore Mill. I think Keith the Machinist is now a Wheelwright. Very nice job. Seeing all the work that you have done is great, and tying it all together. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.
I have been watching TH-cam videos from Engle's Coach Shop, and he has a genuine vintage wagon wheel lathe. And get this: in the background of at least one of his videos, I noticed he has a Crescent Bandsaw like yours. And he knows all about preheating metal tires and fitting them around the wheels, like you told in this video about doing so to the bandsaw hub.
Once the metal is painted and the wood finished its going to be beautiful. I do think that epoxy might limit the next rebuild, maybe use contact cement like the last build used? That lasted how many decades. DO use a good wood filler for the divots and gaps, that will telegraph thru the rubber if you don't.
I think he meant that he would use the epoxy as a wood filler in those divots.... probably not for the rubber itself. I'm with you in the opinion that Contact cement would be best for the rubber itself.
I restored an old band saw with 36" wooden wheels. I trued the wheels but used a different method. I made a short shaft stub a little bit shorter than the depth of the hub and drilled a hole through it. I then put the wheel on the small piece of shaft and bolted it to my Bridgeport. I used a couple greased heavy washers on the top and a couple nuts I could tighten against each other so I could adjust the tension. I put a straight router bit in a collet and slowly turned the band saw wheel (I think it was a 1/2" router bit but can't remember). The wheel came out absolutely true and super smooth. I just used what I could find in the shop but it turned out well.
A while back i got into hand plane restoration videos and i found a young man restoring a hand plane that was made for facing off the axial faces of those wheels, wagon wheels etc. It had a collar that fit over an axle and a rod leading out to a mounting plate that screwed into the side of the hand plane. Very interesting to me. Similar to the old string trick to draw a circle. Looked like a standard smoothing plane.
😂 damn, you're an ingenious bugger! LMAO well done Kieth. Wonderfully entertaining, inspirational and practical as always. Still, by far, my favorite TH-cam channel.
Big toys for big boys! I've never seen a bandsaw this BIG! I thought the one used on the Tally Ho rebuild project was big, but this is NUTS! Looking forward to seeing it in action! GO TEAM KEITH!
A "wheely" good job! It was surprising to see how little run out it did have to begin with, for something 100+ years old! Thank you for sharing, Keith!
Fascinating! "15 RPM" is just not a 'feed and speed' component you hear every day... Send some of those chips to Adam. You know what a kick he would get out of them... As old as that wood rim is, I'm sure it's very 'stable,' but do you think it's important to seal it right away to avoid moisture changes?
So pleased you tidied up the edges of the wheel-rims. They are going to look great and pin-striping the spokes would really please Jimmy and look wonderful. And it's NOT boring.
Wood expands and contracts with humidity. The better the sealant, the more dimensionally stable the wheel. You might want to consider sealing it with marine epoxy.
He thought I would definitely agree with you about leaving the wood leaving the color of the wood don't paint it this is Bob from Vero Beach Florida God bless a safe have a great week and keep up all the good videos I wish I could do it
Keith, I just wanted to say you look great! I think it's time to buy some smaller t-shirts. And that's a good problem to have. 😁 I started keto myself but I'm not reaching my goals quite yet.
That's probably some old wood that's seeing the light of day for the first time in a long time. Maybe just some linseed oil? Anyway, I'm sure Jimmy will be thrilled with this when it's all done.
You’re right even though it’s not being used but it was mainly intended for it’s exciting that it seems to be working just fine.. you couldn’t ask for more when wanting to true that wheel up..👍
As others have indicated, that Dave Engles may be of assistance if only with advice, certain types of projects by and for well establishedYou tubers such as yourself, for another such as Jimmy Diresta, creating projects of mutual interest is an exciting prospect for your viewers and will promote income interest for all. Such a unique project can crossover many fields. And the input to support each other does not occur often. This is one of those times. Both You and Dave can show how two totally different fields can creatively work in support of a third field as viewers will be very interested in the usage that Jimmy will put this tool to use.
Shipyards use the same method of heating the hub to install wheels(props) for boats. The towboat I run has around 113" wheels. Getting them on the shaft is quite a chore.
I would fill and stabilize the raw wood by immersing the rim in a 50% mixture of (preferably) warmed turpentine and boiled linseed oil for an extended period of time. One way of doing this would be leaving the wheel in the boring mill as is, followed by placing a long narrow pan filled with the mixture of oil and turpentine, followed by rotating the wheel to a new section to be treated every 24 hours or so, requiring a week or more to complete. But hey what's the rush? Followed a week or so later by applying 2 or more coats of Water-based, Clear, Minwax, Semi-gloss, Polycrylic finish to complete the job, applying steel wool rubdowns between each coat.
When are you going to finish the "capstan rebuild" for Leo on Tally Ho? I am excited to see you rebuild that unit, especially the cover or wheel that broke. I feel Leo slacks on the amount of video footage when he subs out parts of the work on the boat, or lets someone do the work off site. An example is, the masts [which required specialized tools & skill] and the fancy woodwork for the fore or aft companionway, which one was done at an employee's home shop. So I am super glad you are doing the work, and I hope you make several video episodes, especially showing the casting repair or re-make. Thanks
You might want to consider applying boiled linseed oil to the wheel edge. It will darken to a rich “industrial” finish as it ages. It can become a beautiful accent finish to the old saw.
How about putting a 3/16 steel tire on it to make the diameter back? Interesting project to make and shrink it on. Nice to see that mill working after all that effort. Well done you.
@@randy-yk1yk if there's a slot where the blade is supposed to go, it might be close enough that a small difference is enough to ruin the job. a thin strap instead of a steel tire would probably be enough.
I would recommend leaving the surface very rough with like 36 or 40 grit sandpaper, not 120 . I think you should scuff up the rubber with 80 grit sandpaper before applying the contact adhesive
A good spar varnish or epoxy finish would probably be desirable to protect the wood from environmental moisture so as to reduce any wood movement from humidity changes.
@20:08 I was just thinking about putting some stain and varnish on that wood! Wouldn't be "period correct" but it would really wake up the appearance of that saw!
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 83 วันนี้!! คู่เอก "พันฤทธิ์ vs ซุปเปอร์บอล วันของโอม MBK"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1b4pkKHa_Fk/mqdefault.jpg)
Took six or twelve months off Keith’s content. Came back for a peep and I hardly recognise him. A shadow of his former self to be sure! Hopefully for good reasons. This channel is still as great as ever.
Jimmy DiResta: "Nope. No one has a lathe big enough to true that wheel."
Keith Rucker: "Hold my beer. Watch this..." :-)
That’s a good one. Love it. ❤
Dave Engels at EngelsCoachShop doesn't steam bend his felloes but cuts them out with a bandsaw. Making wagon wheels is fascinating to watch.
This is the usual construction method. I have never heard of seam bending a vehicle wheel rim
Engles has steamed many wheels and wooden parts on his videos. Here is one of my favorites from a few years ago: th-cam.com/video/mHAbShWQ7JI/w-d-xo.html
I really enjoy his channel
@@paulcopeland9035 he only bandsaws the big ones. The smaller ones he often bends as far as I can remember. Fascinating channel
@@09conrado no, remember they have wooden spokes that fit on the hubs first.
I'm not at all surprised how true that wheel is. The general consensus is anything 100+ years old came from a barbaric time where precision was impossible while the truth is precision wasn't an option it was the only option. If anyone was wondering .180 is a bit less than 3/16". Pretty good for 120+ years and considering how dynamic wood is
An antique machine fixing an antique machine, YEAH!👍👍
Great Job, my OCD was going nuts due to the rough sides until you cleaned it up at the end. I nearly passed out with relief lol. Natural timber look with sealer will be beautiful.
You do not have OCD! It is a terrible, debilitating disease that no one would brag about having!!
Burn.... ouch.... ?? Not sure how to respond to that. Anyway.... the wheel looks great.
This was a really great solution for truing that big wheel. Thank you Keith!
Gee Professor, you really are a Doctor of Machining.
Great Job. Awesomeness Extreme!
Awesome job !!!!! Shellac would be a perfect period correct finish on the wood.
Very comforting to see a machine recently restored by you working to restore another.
A giant (to me, anyway) refurbished vintage machine being used to refurbish a different giant vintage machine. It's a such a satisfying thing to watch. I can only imagine how satisfying it must be to DO!
Keith, freight wagons used heated tires on the wooden wheels for durability, and they were installed in a similar fashion. Engels Coach Shop does this.
The steel tyre performs a more important purpose than durability, in that ,when it shrinks onto the rim ,it applies enormous compression on all the wooden parts and forces them together
Keith you looked like a kid on Christmas when you started the wheel on the machine. Great job
Ahh! So THAT'S why you needed the boring mill.
Great to see the machine make it's first chips since restoration... 🙂
After placing the rubber on, I would clean the wood rim edge again then spray clear lacquer once dried polish with Johnson Furniture wax. That would make a beautiful contrast in color to the black tires and spokes.
Keith, your inventiveness never ceases to amaze. Light natural finish on the sides and inner face will look beautiful. You can use a water based vinyl paint, dries quickly, sand, 2nd coat, fine sand and 3rd coat will be a smooth satin finish all within 2 hours. Pin striping will put the crowning touch to it. The rubber tire can be made from a thick rubber strip held on with adhesive. That is usually a rubber type. Don't use epoxy. The guy who has to change that tyre will curse you to eternity if you do. Would suggest you face the wheels with a very hard glossy paint to make replacement easier.There is one requirement - the joint is perfect. Good Job, well done.
This is very awesome to see that massive wheel in the Bore Mill.
I think Keith the Machinist is now a Wheelwright.
Very nice job.
Seeing all the work that you have done is great, and tying it all together.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care, Ed.
The first job on the boring mill is to use it as a lathe.
Great video , Keith! Sure nice to see 2 long time projects moving forward! Impressive out come on the wheel! Thanks for your time and sharing! 👍😎✌️
The versatility of machines is astounding. It just takes a bit of thought to come come up with a solution.
I have been watching TH-cam videos from Engle's Coach Shop, and he has a genuine vintage wagon wheel lathe. And get this: in the background of at least one of his videos, I noticed he has a Crescent Bandsaw like yours. And he knows all about preheating metal tires and fitting them around the wheels, like you told in this video about doing so to the bandsaw hub.
Great to see the Lucas being utilized even though unconventionally!
Keith - you'd make Dave Engels proud in how you restored and kept a those wheels in good shape!
A wheel like that would make an amazing shop clock!
Once the metal is painted and the wood finished its going to be beautiful. I do think that epoxy might limit the next rebuild, maybe use contact cement like the last build used? That lasted how many decades. DO use a good wood filler for the divots and gaps, that will telegraph thru the rubber if you don't.
I think he meant that he would use the epoxy as a wood filler in those divots.... probably not for the rubber itself. I'm with you in the opinion that Contact cement would be best for the rubber itself.
@@normmcrae1140 He has done band saw "tires" in videos/years past. He knows what he is doing!
I restored an old band saw with 36" wooden wheels. I trued the wheels but used a different method. I made a short shaft stub a little bit shorter than the depth of the hub and drilled a hole through it. I then put the wheel on the small piece of shaft and bolted it to my Bridgeport. I used a couple greased heavy washers on the top and a couple nuts I could tighten against each other so I could adjust the tension. I put a straight router bit in a collet and slowly turned the band saw wheel (I think it was a 1/2" router bit but can't remember). The wheel came out absolutely true and super smooth. I just used what I could find in the shop but it turned out well.
thank you for sharing this video Keith sharing your time the wheel looks wonderful and you are looking well yourself.
My favorite episode so far in the band saw restoration. If Jimmey is watching, he's gotta be pleased.
You can bet big time he is watching!
A while back i got into hand plane restoration videos and i found a young man restoring a hand plane that was made for facing off the axial faces of those wheels, wagon wheels etc. It had a collar that fit over an axle and a rod leading out to a mounting plate that screwed into the side of the hand plane. Very interesting to me. Similar to the old string trick to draw a circle. Looked like a standard smoothing plane.
I was the 7000th like!!
Woo Hoo, Keith! Great video, and thanking you for showing us how to do things!
Boiled Linseed oil for the wooden wheels would be completely appropriate and make for a beautiful finish.
It is amazing how good they where able to machine things back in the day with the old school tools and machines
Looks pretty nice, i like the natural wood look👍
That's so damn crazy that that's a "bandsaw" wheel! 😂 that's gonna be one hell of a beautiful saw though. Excellent work sir
Super cool
i keep watching this series cant wait to see it finished
Very clever use of your horizontal boring mill! 🙂
Good morning Keith. Very nice! I think the wood should show also. The pinstriping is also a plus. Thanks.
my friend Jimmy yeas!! gittin 'er done!!
😂 damn, you're an ingenious bugger! LMAO well done Kieth. Wonderfully entertaining, inspirational and practical as always. Still, by far, my favorite TH-cam channel.
Big toys for big boys! I've never seen a bandsaw this BIG! I thought the one used on the Tally Ho rebuild project was big, but this is NUTS! Looking forward to seeing it in action! GO TEAM KEITH!
He might have been able to fit it on Brian's big Monarch !!
Once painted it needs Diresta hand lettered on the hub. Beautiful work btw.
Very nice Keith, that is going to work great.
Pretty fancy canary yellow handle ya got there, Keith.😊
really one of the most exciting turning videos i have seen in a while
A "wheely" good job! It was surprising to see how little run out it did have to begin with, for something 100+ years old! Thank you for sharing, Keith!
Wow that looks great, good work. I was a little spectacle on if it was rotten or not. Thanks for sharing. Time well spent on the boring mill.
Fascinating! "15 RPM" is just not a 'feed and speed' component you hear every day... Send some of those chips to Adam. You know what a kick he would get out of them... As old as that wood rim is, I'm sure it's very 'stable,' but do you think it's important to seal it right away to avoid moisture changes?
Walk into a machine tool dealer... "Yeah, I'm trying to true up a wagon wheel. What do you have with a 5 foot swing over the bed?"
What a great job for the first use of your boreing machine. The view fom here of that wheel gently spinning back to life was wonderful.
The set up on the boring mill was real nice !!
Great to see the boring mill in action after all this time.
So pleased you tidied up the edges of the wheel-rims. They are going to look great and pin-striping the spokes would really please Jimmy and look wonderful. And it's NOT boring.
Back in th3 70's ran a G&L like this . Did many different jobs on it but nothing like this. Very nice. You need a helper. Not volunteering.
Awesome…located in Land of Rucker…the WIZARD OF WHEELS
Keith, you might consider putting a walnut staining varnish on the wood that would set things off real nice.
As always, a great presentation!! I agree, nice to see the boring mill in operation.
Love how the two projects paths intersected for an excellent result. Great job Keith!!
TRULY A G O D GIVEN. SKILL
That was a fun looking way to break in the HBM.
Nice Anglelock tool post.
Can't wait to see the bandsaw turn a wheel in anger! keep on keeping on!
Wood expands and contracts with humidity. The better the sealant, the more dimensionally stable the wheel. You might want to consider sealing it with marine epoxy.
thank you Keith
He thought I would definitely agree with you about leaving the wood leaving the color of the wood don't paint it this is Bob from Vero Beach Florida God bless a safe have a great week and keep up all the good videos I wish I could do it
Seeing that big old wheel up there was super cool! Congratulations on getting the HBM up and running.
Keith, I just wanted to say you look great! I think it's time to buy some smaller t-shirts. And that's a good problem to have. 😁 I started keto myself but I'm not reaching my goals quite yet.
That's probably some old wood that's seeing the light of day for the first time in a long time.
Maybe just some linseed oil?
Anyway, I'm sure Jimmy will be thrilled with this when it's all done.
Hi Keith, Nice job! I’d like to see a dust mask on you. Let’s keep the videos coming for a good long time! Take care of yourself!
Thanks Keith very interesting. Thanks for sharing
some fine work there keith!! thanks!
nice Job on truing up the wood I vote for Boiled linseed oil on bare wood sides.
Such a smart way to get the job done. Awesome work. Looks great for something that is well over 120, years old!
Yes, yes! More bandsaw videos, keep them coming!
Excellent video Keith, fascinating to watch. Thank you so much for making and posting this.
You’re right even though it’s not being used but it was mainly intended for it’s exciting that it seems to be working just fine.. you couldn’t ask for more when wanting to true that wheel up..👍
Interesting to see that the high points of the wheel were in between the spokes. Bowed outwards.
Thanks for this very nice content 👍👍
As others have indicated, that Dave Engles may be of assistance if only with advice, certain types of projects by and for well establishedYou tubers such as yourself, for another such as Jimmy Diresta, creating projects of mutual interest is an exciting prospect for your viewers and will promote income interest for all. Such a unique project can crossover many fields. And the input to support each other does not occur often. This is one of those times. Both You and Dave can show how two totally different fields can creatively work in support of a third field as viewers will be very interested in the usage that Jimmy will put this tool to use.
Shipyards use the same method of heating the hub to install wheels(props) for boats. The towboat I run has around 113" wheels. Getting them on the shaft is quite a chore.
I would fill and stabilize the raw wood by immersing the rim in a 50% mixture of (preferably) warmed turpentine and boiled linseed oil for an extended period of time. One way of doing this would be leaving the wheel in the boring mill as is, followed by placing a long narrow pan filled with the mixture of oil and turpentine, followed by rotating the wheel to a new section to be treated every 24 hours or so, requiring a week or more to complete. But hey what's the rush? Followed a week or so later by applying 2 or more coats of Water-based, Clear, Minwax, Semi-gloss, Polycrylic finish to complete the job, applying steel wool rubdowns between each coat.
linseed oil on the wooden rim?
Extremely interesting--- On a scale of 1 to 10 that is a 20. Ellis
Nice turning. I was wondering how it was for balance? Would be interesting to see how it run and balanced... Thumbs Up!
It will run only 100 rpm or less so balance shouldn’t be a major problem.
Great job. Just great.
I reckon a clear coat on the wood rim would be nice.
Nice work.
Great to see the HBM being used congratulations!!!!
When are you going to finish the "capstan rebuild" for Leo on Tally Ho? I am excited to see you rebuild that unit, especially the cover or wheel that broke. I feel Leo slacks on the amount of video footage when he subs out parts of the work on the boat, or lets someone do the work off site. An example is, the masts [which required specialized tools & skill] and the fancy woodwork for the fore or aft companionway, which one was done at an employee's home shop. So I am super glad you are doing the work, and I hope you make several video episodes, especially showing the casting repair or re-make. Thanks
awesome 👍👍👍👍
You might want to consider applying boiled linseed oil to the wheel edge. It will darken to a rich “industrial” finish as it ages. It can become a beautiful accent finish to the old saw.
Just noticed your Philmont belt. Got mine in 1996 623k-2 expedition
Nice job.
Looks great!
How about putting a 3/16 steel tire on it to make the diameter back? Interesting project to make and shrink it on. Nice to see that mill working after all that effort. Well done you.
makes me wonder if engel's coachworks is near there, there'll be videos for both and a lot of k'noledge to spread around.
@felderup Engels is in Montana.
@@danbenson5319 so, not close, but hardly a bad idea, maybe there's a coach shop nearer.
Why would you need to make up the diameter? It would just be adding a level of complexity with absolutely no gain.
@@randy-yk1yk if there's a slot where the blade is supposed to go, it might be close enough that a small difference is enough to ruin the job. a thin strap instead of a steel tire would probably be enough.
Thank you for sharing. Very nice.👍
I would recommend leaving the surface very rough with like 36 or 40 grit sandpaper, not 120 .
I think you should scuff up the rubber with 80 grit sandpaper before applying the contact adhesive
Really enjoyed the innovation on this project. Thanks Keith!
A good spar varnish or epoxy finish would probably be desirable to protect the wood from environmental moisture so as to reduce any wood movement from humidity changes.
@20:08 I was just thinking about putting some stain and varnish on that wood! Wouldn't be "period correct" but it would really wake up the appearance of that saw!