Constant Current DC Electronic Load from Banggood - 200V 20A 180W
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ค. 2019
- Taking a look at one of the more heavy duty electronic DC loads from Banggood.
Time Index:
1:33 Product overview
3:40 USB Mini 5v adapter load test
4:35 DC wall wart load test
5:18 Output DC jack ext. load test
5:56 Setting test limits and input offsets
13:05 Higher voltage and current load testing
17:25 NiMH AA battery discharge test
18:19 Final thoughts, pros and cons
Banggood affiliate links:
200V 20A 180W Constant Current DC Electronic Load (the one I reviewed is discontinued, this is the newer one):
www.banggood.com/custlink/DKm...
QC2.0/3.0 USB Quick Charger Voltage Trigger:
ban.ggood.vip/sfih
Patreon: / gadgetreboot
Background music from the TH-cam music library:
A Rising Wave by Jeremy Blake
Ridge Racer by DivKid - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[TH] VCT Pacific Stage 2 - Week 1 Day 1 // DRX vs ZETA | BLD vs TS](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AWaOqaxN6Y0/mqdefault.jpg)
This is the best review of these units I've seen!
And thanks for covering the output terminal question, which no other reviewer seemed to recognize.
Thank you very much for testing this electronic load. It's the best review I've come across of this popular tool. You just asked all the questions I would have asked as well and gave just the info I was looking for. I just ordered the 150W Geekcreit version with the display riser board now available on Banggood (with the horizontal fan). They seem to be all based on the same design for hardware and software.
AWESOME, I've got one of these. However, I don't use it like I would like to because I don't remember all of the bells and wishes. GREAT reviewe and distribution! This link will be kept with the Device
Best review I have seen. I wish someone would write a good manual for this unit. I heard you say something about clicking twice in a setting screen for UP and three times for DOWN. I have not tried this, but I can tell you I had major frustration changing the settings.
But, for the price, this is one great little unit.
yeah I wish it had a better menu navigation with a rotary encoder click-entry and no memorizing how many buttons to press at which time!
5:45 seems to be the most underrated part of this device. A good way to use the device only for measuring and not for loading. It may even be possible to achieve a high load with less heat release.
This OlogyMart 1381646 is one fancy shunt regulator ... and what a sexy heat sink! Looks like it belongs on an i7.
Yup, it needs a rotary encoder and a genuine English speaker to help with the menus/instructions.
Strange that these companies do not hire someone like you for a couple of days. Surely these two improvements alone would improve sales drastically without adding significant cost.
I agree with you on almost everything. I just purchased one from Amazon and I noticed my FINE current doesnt do squat until it gets to about 50%. Also on mine it has single fan but other than that they look identical. Pushing a single button to do everything SUKS !!! Great video, TNX for the upload ! 73 N8AUM
Thanks a lot for this video!
Great Review, Thanks
best informative review I've seen so far, thankyou. Q. can you control output to charge, say a lifepo4 cell etc? and will it track capacity doing so?
It doesn't directly provide an output, it's meant to provide a load to an input such as a fully charged battery to discharge it and then capacity can be determined from the time it takes at a certain current. But this is more of a heavy duty unit to provide large loads for other types of testing than small battery loads. A different load tester is better suited to small loads.
Great info. Thanks
The little white connector in between the knobs will put out a voltage whenever an alarm is triggered, if you use that voltage to control a relais via an Arduino or something similar you can make the load stop trying to switch on again. I've bought the new version of this electronic load which is more precise with measuring voltage and current and I hope that the software is updated so that it will shut off on a trigger and stay off that would be great and if it doesn't I'll just use my Arduino to take over by using the trigger voltage and make it do what I want.
If all you want to do is disconnect the battery under test once discharging is complete, you don't need anything as complicated/expensive as an Arduino.
On my "150W/180W" board, the output of that 2-pin connector is 3VDC, and stays "high" as long as the alarm is beeping. All that's required is a buffer (transistor or hex-inverter/buffer IC) and a suitable relay or suitable MOSFET as desired to disconnect the battery under test from the tester.
@@exgenica my electronic load wasn't delivered so I got it refunded, I do want it but since delivery is a problem here I'm not sure if I'm going to try it again... even though I got the refund it still cost some money and I hate wasting it.
Very good item
Use case for external load connector: monitor battery charging.
Zero out both potentiometers.
Plug charger into input. Plug battery into external load connector.
Not much point to having the fan in this case.
Would be really handy to have connector for data logging.
Nice detailed review :D, I am looking to buy a similar cheaper CC load but my issue is that I want to also log these readings onto my laptop, is there a way to do it? I have seen that it comes with PC software. Can you confirm if it has the option to log and see values in some sort of CSV, excel files :)
Also, can it be programmed by the host so that I can tell it when to start discharging or so? if no, then do you know any other electronic affordbable CC load that can do a similar job but also can log data and is programmable.
It's been 2 years since I looked at the unit so I can't recall any automated control, and I think this model is discontinued, at least Banggood stopped selling the one I looked at so I'm not sure if there's newer features on what they do carry now.
I know the one I used had a difficult user interface and I had to guess how to get it working! I hope the newer ones are better.
Hi !! Have you tried connecting a constant current source? like those used to feed LEDs, with mine I could not do it, only with resistive load. Sorry for errors in the translation, my language is Spanish.
The 'other output port' is also marked 'connect to other loads'. I suspect it is to increase the load current by attaching either a fixed power resistor in parallel or cascading another active load. This would depend on the firmware allowing you to demand more than 180W though since the current for both loads pass through the shunt on this unit. Maybe there is a second shunt that measures just the current on this load for the protection circuits?
But your excellent explanation got me thinking: how about connecting a buck-boost 5v output converter to this output and using it to power the load? Since the input to the converter would be after the measuring shunt, the current taken by the converter would be accounted for as part of the load which would still be accurate. This would dispense with the need for a separate power supply. It would probably also need a rechargeable battery backup to bootstrap the load and ensure it remained powered even when the unit under test faulted out.
I think I would need to see a block diagram to make sure I fully understand, would the purpose be to have the power source that is being tested also act as a power source for the electronic load itself?
it’s been over a year I think since I touched the output section so I don’t remember fully how it works but the power source would need to have enough capacity to power the unit so it wouldn’t work for all types of testing like battery discharge, and depending if there’s any power fluctuation demand of the load itself like when the switching transistor is working harder or heating up, I wonder if it would contribute to unexpected behaviour on the power source especially if we are expecting to provide a more constant load but now it’s varying enough to be problematic, either because there’s a varying load current or because there’s some sort of switching noise being introduced back to the source.
unless it’s auto compensating the way it’s all hooked up similar to putting a diode in series with the output of an op amp, the op amp itself compensates for that drop just by its own behaviour instead of having a little drop.
@@GadgetReboot I have a later version of this (with the colour display) on order, though it is not clear if it still has the 'other output port'.
www.banggood.com/180W-DL24-2_4-Inch-DC-USB-Tester-Electronic-Load-APP-18650-Battery-Capacity-Monitor-Discharge-Charge-Power-Meter-Supply-Checker-with-Color-Display-p-1655229.html
I would expect the load on the power supply to be fairly constant since it is just powering the feedback control circuit and display and also it would normally be powered from a switching mains supply so should be tolerant to a reasonably rough supply. Certainly my idea depends on the load voltage and current exceeding the minimum voltage and actual current of the buck-boost module. What we want is essentially an uninterruptible supply with a rechargeable battery so it does not cut out at the end of a battery capacity test for example.
I'm fairly sure the intention is to allow the loads to be cascaded to give higher wattage though and would be interested to have someone test this to see if the firmware allows it. Connecting a (power) resistor or maybe a light bulb across this output should resolve this, if a second electronic load is not available.
You do have to watch that you don't exceed the current and voltage handling specs of the simple coaxial connector used in this device. They are not usually rated beyond 2Amps (perhaps 3A if they are really robust), and the voltage limits can vary. To handle higher currents you need the more specialized coaxial connectors you find on commercial TVs which can be over 4Amps. Otherwise, one can get melted metal and plastic, short circuits, etc inside the simpler coaxial connectors as they have a very simple and fairly small area of contact between the inner "peg" inside the device's connector and the mating hole in the load's connector and LIKE the lower cross section in thin wires, it doesn't handle high currents.
Thank you very much for that video. Now its all clear to me. :-) But there is a problem. Somethings was fallen on my display and I need to replace it. But I don't know what display it is. Do you know what I have to searching for? That would be great an I thank you even now.
12:37 this is not resistance of power source but resistance of DC load, based on calculation of measured voltage/current
amazing
From home screen. Under no load. Click 7 times fast. Now when you adjust the “fine” knob slowly to full clockwise to put a load on your battery, then turn CCW to decrease, you will notice that you can adjust current in .01 A increments. This is in the “Usage Intro” sheet, but not clear like much of it.
Yes . I have same one from AliExpress . It's considered a high current meter . Best to test it under 36v in safe side . Even it can test 100v with 1a but you don't know what happen . Any way I use it to test 12v up to 24 v with 5 A up to 10 A .
And the transistor is irfp90n20d you may have to replace it when you do some tweaking In this DC load like test a upper than 50v
Thanks for the transistor info. I have been meaning to take the heat sink off and look underneath but I haven’t broken anything yet.
It's easy to take the heatsink but the transistor is upside down so you need to twest it a little but be careful not cut off the edge legs
I have buy 2 type same mother board . One 150w tweek 180w and the other 180w tweek 210w
One with irfp90n20d and the other irfp260N
The data sheet is not 💯 real as the transistot in real world work .
This transistors can work perfectly in 36 with full power . But in higher the volt you give the lower the power can decipated .
Like 300w in 36v is not same in 60v
The errors at low current are due to the large (thick) current shunt. There is not much voltage drop across it when under 1A. It's obvious that the MCU doesn't have the resolution to accurately measure low currents. I think you may have buggered up the calibration when you entered the setup menu.
Yes this dummy load is good for test a 3A and up to 20 A with voltage 5 up to 200 ( prefer not over 100v ) with power 150w up to 200W and can over 300w for short time like 30 second .
But there a 60w dummy load can test from 20mA up to 10 amp with volt from 200mv up to 30v and it's very very very stable and strong and good one .
m.aliexpress.com/item/4000163609440.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&gps-id=platformRecommendH5&scm=1007.18499.134607.0&scm_id=1007.18499.134607.0&scm-url=1007.18499.134607.0&pvid=8eca87e4-72b5-4900-af4a-97a6adf00e32&_t=gps-id:platformRecommendH5,scm-url:1007.18499.134607.0,pvid:8eca87e4-72b5-4900-af4a-97a6adf00e32&spm=a2g0n.detail-amp.moretolove.4000163609440&aff_trace_key=f62cba13fa9a4ff6a8292f109419f200-1587225025020-08745-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=7863amp-bVCLlTMSeZbQ7KwkWaSwBw1587226686722&browser_id=f8902d8755b34e139d54d72639738af0&is_c=N
I highly recommend to buy it because it's design for batteries for long test and to test the DC converters that are small or sensitive .
Might that resistance measurement be an impedance measurement instead? Impedance still confuses me ... 🤔 ... but not as much as it did just a few months ago.
With the only data available to the processor being the measured voltage and measured current, they must be just calculating resistance as voltage divided by current regardless if it’s purely resistive or reactive, also the FET drawing the load is ideally a resistive load.
Here’s a little comparison of resistance and impedance.
circuitglobe.com/difference-between-resistance-and-impedance.html
@DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse i have 3 of these from a year ago. Now not one of them will turn on.
Is there a way to "reset" them? None of them "blew up" or smoked or anything like that.
I have one of these, lower current version, apart from that the same. The problem I have, it is in umder voltage condition, I can't reset it to zero, or get into any menu. It just beeps under voltage, any ideas? It's now at 150v low warning, I tried conection just over 150v hoping it may scan up and back down.
do you think we can mod it to 4 wire measurement? like extend the sense voltage with leads? any idea why it uses 2 shunts?
Yes you can mod it, however it's better just to buy the new model DL24 and DL24P that has 4-wire green terminal block.
they need a bag of FET's as mine blew up twice already
Use the 3v error output to disconnect the battery with an arduino and relay
Maybe the JST can activate a circuit that presses/activates the button to stop it.
Only problem is there’s no dedicated test stop button and depending what is showing on the screen, if it’s displaying the actual cut off warning message or if it’s in the process of trying to start up again, it might even require a different combination of button presses to try to stop it but maybe the signal can be used to cut the power elsewhere like a relay or something.
See my comment below at:
th-cam.com/video/bx74sNFQvwc/w-d-xo.html&lc=UgyaoQyE3XcHVWV8gTp4AaABAg.94MU-SfL1cK97D3g-qrfdm
If needed on a particular version of the tester, then if you add the
cutoff relay circuit I suggest in the comment it will STAY off.
Also, if you want easy manual control to stop the test you could simply add an on/off switch in between your battery under test and the input of the tester. You could make a special connector to do that so you don't have to disconnect any wires. Then when you switch that "off" the tester will think the battery has been depleted below the cutoff voltage (Vterm, Vcutoff, etc) stop testing and sound the alarm.
If while the alarm is beeping you lower the discharge current potentiometers (silver knobs) to zero, all the test data will be retained no matter what happens with the battery voltage, and you can read it. If you don't set the current to zero, then you may lose the data (at least on the tester model I received that happened a few times as the battery voltage crept back up over the
That 50 mv error you had, can you not enter that into the v field in the sub menu to cancel it out? surely there is an offset/
I've just received the same model and the low voltage disconnect stays disconnected even as the battery voltage rises again.
My paperwork says the jack you pointed out says it is for an external fan
Transistor mosfet . irfp260n or irfp90n20d
how accurate is the internal resistance measurements if you have one of those meters to compare it to
I don't have a separate internal resistance measurement device to compare but I don't feel this unit does a proper measurement because it's measuring voltage only at its own input terminals instead of measuring with separate wires at the source, so it's going to have some voltage drop in the wires between source and input terminals while drawing current and it can't determine accurate resistance from that.
@@GadgetReboot makes sense. thanks
is it ok to check at least 2 amp. adaptor just to check if it is really drawn actual 2 amp. current ouput from adaptor.. thanks in advance
Yes as long as the specs aren't exceeded, so no more than the load's rated voltage, current, and power. 2 amps at 12 volts = 24 watts for example, all within the spec limits
@@GadgetReboot thanks again sir
Better to buy similar but newer model ATORCH DL24/P which has color screen, a proper digital interface, app control and pc software, etc. Search Google for ATORCH DL24/P and find the manufacturer's Aliexpress page where there is Mediafire link for manual and software. Bangood will sell it under SKU 1655229 (180w) and 1629459 (150w) - just search BG for those SKU numbers
well according to many the newer one's are very inacurate
@@davidflanagan1152 Could you please provide the link/links to tests showing ATORCH DL24 lack of accuracy. I'd like to do some research b4 I buy.
Thanks
Strange it doesn't have a calibration mode.
It DOES have a calibration mode. In the settings menu, as shown in the video
Can it test 36v battery at 15A discharge?
That would be 540 watts so too high.
@@GadgetReboot ok great Thanks
Mosfes number?
If you mean MOSFET part number... then it's usually a IRRF260 or IRFP260N
If you mean the number of MOSFETs... then it's ONE.
You are providing a few bits of invalid but key information to your viewers that could result in safety exposures. (example: at about (03:20) you state all the device input connectors are in parallel. That isn't accurate. The lower USB inputs are limited to +5V whereas the coaxial connector for example, can handle much higher voltages. The screw connector input should be used for currents above about 2Amps. The standard USB connectors are not DESIGNED to handle the voltages and currents this tester can accept and damage will occur if one tries to connect inappropriate voltage and power throught those connectors. You also have some gaps in your understanding of how the unit works and I think you should have cleared those up before you produced this video.
I'm not sure why you added a temperature reading device as the unit's screen provides a built-in temperature display field (just to right of runtime indicator). Talking about the external load (the resistor(s)) was a good point most reviews don't discuss, but you still fell short. Is the power consumed by the resistor added to the total power (e.g. If the resistor(s) are pulling 20W doees that mean the tester itself is now limited to 180W-20W? What is the maximum current/watts the external load can add to the circuit? ...and so on. With what granularity can one set the current and does the screen show the same resolution as you rotate the potentiometers?
Also, a general observation. With a device constructed like this and shipped generally not very well protected, the heavy heatsink tends to break the retention tabs. This is a high voltage/high current instrument with exposed electronics. People should check for damage on such items and for example ensure the heatsink hasn't seprated from the MOSFET (e.g. look for any gapping between the heatsink and the circuit board. This is not an uncommon problem per user reviews.) Also advise people to check for damage of any kind, but especially for electronic damage, components, movement/shorting parts due to shipping, damage to circuit board and its traces. This is not a safely packaged product and it handles high voltages and high currents...both can be lethal or cause severe injury. One should also wear eyeglasses while using it as high current discharges can break and/or vaporize metal parts resulting in shrapnel and molten metal flying right toward one's face.
By the way, do your instructions show the incorrect reverse locations for the "coarse" and "fine" current adjustment knobs? That has also been identified in reviews as a common problem.
Regarding your concern about the unit cycling off and on during an error condition...using the "JST looking" signal connector (06:50) it's not too hard to build a small circuit that will absolutely disconnect the power to your tester when an error occurs, thus stopping the loop.
Chinese person is trying to translate it into English that's why it's not clear