James Condon I got a free Duro Max 10,000 watt dual fuel pretty sure engine blew pull cord and I sounds like marbles coming from the engine and cant feel compression with the plug out. I called Duro Max replacement engine 486.00 to the door I never swapped engines on a generator I am going to try my first one this weekend watching your videos gave me more confidence.
Good luck. Take your time and take plenty of pictures. The most critical part will be removing the wiring and getting the powerhead off without damaging it.
Once you have the motor running at 3600 or 1800rpm for 60hz, adjust the tiny brass screw on the back of the avr to get your voltage closer to the 110v you want in America. The engine sounds like it's surging a little, take the emulsion tube and idle jet(generally a little black plastic plug on engines like that ) out of the carb and clean them, the main jet will come out to release the emulsion tube, clean that too. Use a throttle body cleaner that foams and goes goey to soak them, then wash with a solvent. Nice score on the generators, it's a great way to learn things. I've commented on a couple of videos looking for information regarding the avr wiring but think I've discovered the original notes i made when I learned how to test them. I can add the information if it's useful to you. Cheers!!
You would think by 2015 all generator manufactures would know, exhaust heat shields should be standard unless there is a 3+ inch air gap between muffler and gen. head. Great video, you rock!!!
I really like your videos. I have been picking up generators for free or next to nothing and fixing them. The latest was a 7500 watt briggs for free and a $14 set of brushes fixed it. I really like your rope trick. Learn something new everyday.
HEY THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MAKING THE FULL VIDEO AND NOT WHIMPING OUT AFTER THE FIRST VIDEO!! ALOT OF PEOPLE WOULD HAVE THROWN IT IN THE GARBAGE OR SCRAPED IT!!! Thank you soooo much for completing it all the way!!!
New to the channel, like how you work clean and organized, most of all you talk when you need to talk not mindless tribble. Looking forward to all previous and future videos. Cheers from Canada
Thanks for the video, it was very informative. I understood your caution about connecting the white wires at first, but I knew you didn't realize the stator power windings were isolated. I continued watching to see if you figured it out, and of course you did, followed by an excellent explanation. I really appreciate your time and effort making the videos, I am learning quite a bit from them. I've done valve lash, carb rebuilds, but never messed with the power head. Thank you !
Hand tighten the stator bolt at first. Fully torque the stator, after you installed he windings housing. The rear bearing fitment helps with perpendicularity issues for assembly balancing. The engine's taper end will better align with the stator shaft during the torque down. It could develop unwanted run-out otherwise, and possibly vibrate.
Those power heads can be stripped down, cleaned, and re-wound in a electric motor shop. There is one in town here, about 4 miles North of me. They specialize in rewinding motors & generators ect.
Most bond to ground for construction purposes, in case of an osha inspection. Unfortunately it can cause gfci issues if using in a household emergency power situation
The air intake of the stator is 1/4" from the muffler, thereby pulling hot air into the stator windings. Thrrow the muffler over your shoulder, and just fabricate an elbow, to direct exhaust outward. Now there's plenty of room for a heat shield.....
27:00 time . Make a heat shroud, and bolt/screw it to whatever is handy there, to separate housing from muffler, directing any air flow OUT and AWAY.....
That little lock ring on the bearing was giving me fits. I tried again and I found that one side of the bearing has the groove deeper. If you spin it around it sits flush!
Heat Shield: Simply adding a heat shield will reduce the heat transmission slightly (minor reduction), however, moving the muffler away greatly reduces the head transmission. Note: Heat radiates radially outward, so the closer the muffler is to the generator the greater the heat transmission.
John Mauthner ... worked on gen sets for over 20 years and just retired. I can tell you the heat shield saves quite a bit... somewhere around 100 degrees cooler, but mostly after you shut the engine off, which is when the engine cooling air stops. Basically the "after boil" heat is what kills the winding insulation. The other aspect is that most people have no clue as to what 5 Kw can power and they are easy to overload with fridges, freezers, well pumps, etc. Of course an overload usually toasts the main windings, not the DPE winding.
Now I know what my slip rings should read, hopefully good since I have an identical PH on a another gen. Stater looks fairly easy to swap out. Great we'll done video, scoured you tube looking for answers!
Muffler Comment: My recommendation is to get a 90 degree connect from the flange to the head pointing out and away. This will move the muffler away from the generator housing and eliminate your overheating and destruction of your outer winding which are in very close proximity of the muffler as it exists without this modification.
I did a video on a powerboss generator that had the muffler above the stator (actually a car muffler, that I return removed and set back to OEM). I thought that was strange at first given nobody else is doing that, but it makes things a lot cooler. Am working on one now that has sever vapor lock issues. Would be nice is manufacturers would give thought to the details.
How do I identify the sense and excite connections on the generator end? The avr replacement i got doesn't have the same plug type, I've identified the sense pair and excite pair on the avr but I don't know how to match them with the 4 wires on the generator end!!
Hi, is there a way to use a generator head with other engine using a belt system? I habe ben triyng but the rotor keeps touching the stator. Srry for bad english
Great content...I have to say to everyone though that I have found almost all homelife products inferior to defective from brand new.sooo...we ve got that going for us.thankyou..
James can you do a video and talk to us about how people burn up these generators. What are some of the ways that we need to avoid. the do's and dont's ..
When you buy a power head how do you know the crankshaft taper of the engine will match the power head? I can't believe the taper is standard with all manufacturers.
On the 5000-8000 watt generators there are two types of standard tapered shafts. There are some odd ones on older machines and an occasional odd one in newer machines.
Really awesome job. Super slouth finding the missing capacity. Loved how you highlighted the spring jumping off🤣🤣. Once you replaced the carb it purred like a kitten 😸. Great catch at the end connecting the oil sensor.👍 Funny you mentioned the sustained winds over 40mph with gusts over 70. Our power went out Christmas morning at 3:30 am and was out for 19 hours. The Predator 6500 I picked up ran like a top. March can't come soon enough when the standby gets installed. Anyway keep up the great work. I learn something new every time. Happy New Year.
Why did you take the head apart and then re assemble? You can put the stator and rotor on all in one piece and not have to worry about the bearing or do any damage sliding the stator over.. great videos by the way!!
soo... your repair videos are awesome.. especially for someone like me, who uses Gens, a lot.. also.. i built a smelter furnace.. from youtube.. lmao.. and a nice project you can do, is casting and melting of your scrap.. look into it..u must have a lot of scrap lying around..
Thank you for the information. They may have thought that the air is coming out of the generator head at front, or that is what it looked like, not east to know for sure from what little I could see. They may have thought that the air coming out would stop the heat from the muffler from damaging the generator. But that is just a thought from someone that didn't get a good look at the generator fan. I would put a R next to the place that got the red wire. I don't like trusting my memory where the wires go I also sometimes take a photo with my phone. Getting older and if it is a week or two before I can put it back together, I don't want to make a mistake. In school they told us to always mark where the wires go and it just stuck with me. Also learned the right handed motor rule, and left handed generator rule. But the way I learned it I can't tell on here. THANKS
That is normal on these. The ID of the bearing is larger then the bolt. Recently have been building a should on the bolt with electrical tape to help center it.
brush holder not on right. . .What happens is the AVR wants to compare the 120 volts or a tap off the 120 to use as a reference point for the excitation. so if this reference voltage is a bit on the hi side it will tell the AVR to reduce excitation to the field or if on the low side, it will tell the AVR to up the excitation to the rotor.
So to get 240v out of this to charge your Tesla or run your house dryer you would have to come off the hots on each side and both neutrals hooked together in one plug. Right?
James, I cannot find a more current video to ask this question. Please share some O-scope screen shots comparing the 'trash level" of a regular generator as compared to the newer INVERTER models now being produced.
I recently completed the install of my Generator inlet box/off-grid connection. I successfully ran the A/C and essentials, but feeling a little sketchy about today’s high-tech, digital TVs and the like. Granted, the transformer/rectifier circuits do a good bit of filtering....
That was a great video. I often wondered how the generator came apart. I did not see you install the right hand screw to the brush holder? Maybe I missed that but I didn't see it when you put the rear cover on for the last time? You probably already know this that the air is drawn in from the back side, through the cover toward the engine? No air is sucked in from the engine to the generator. Just the same, the heat shield is a real good idea. I have a Generac and it has a heat shield to shield the generator. Thanks again for a helpful video!
@@jcondon1 I was wondering about that but I could not see it clearly. That video was the very first of your work that I even saw. I have had a lot of experience working with my own generators that supply all my power at my camp. Between one diesel and one gas generator I have produced over 16 thousand run hours of power over the years. I guess I thought you were kind of new at this until I discovered your volume of work and I can say that I am truly impressed! Thanks for being here. Terry
What is the Champion model number? How many cc's is the engine and what parts do you need? Most likely you can use honda clone 212cc parts or 420 cc parts.
Just off center. The ID of the ball bearing is larger then the bolt diameter. Recently been using electric tape to build a shoulder. Bolt goes in much better.
Intresting seeing TTI on that new motor, considering TTI is a tool company that own ryobi, milwaukee, empire, dirt devil, and other brands. Wonder what a tool company is doing making generator motor parts
Can you tell us where we can find part numbers for generator stators and rotors? There is a generator for sale listed as not producing power and I want to see what a stator and rotor would cost for it.
@@jcondon1 It's a DuroMax DS12000EH. The seller is asking $400 but I think that is too much for a generator that doesn't produce electricity. If the generator head isn't too expensive I would follow the steps you've shown us multiple times in your videos to get it working and if that doesn't work then replace it if not too costly.
@@TheTechnoSpark duromax generators new are not very expensive. $400 is almost the working price. Would not pay more then $100. Also not sure if Duromax supplies parts like that. Possible a Ryobi or Generac power head would fit, but would need modification.
My rotor isnt rubbing when i turn the motor over at all but when i start it the thing rubs and throws sparks . Still has voltage but only when it runs will it rub.. like its a magnetic force pulling it.. annoying.. i dunno how to fix that.. rotor goes in straight, torque to same thing.. but its just weird..
James, I am in a similar situation with a 15 year old Black Max generator. The engine is a 13 horse Honda, and he old burnt out generator that I want to replace is a 6500 watt Powermate PM0496750. Any ideas on where to find a new unit that will bolt up to my engine? I have it all stripped down to the bell housing now, just looking for parts.
I would check out the Ryobi parts for their 5500 watt generator. It was very affordable. Used a Ryobi stator and rotor on this powermate and managed to get it to work. th-cam.com/video/OT2etRMdTVc/w-d-xo.html. Otherwise the power heads fir the Generac GP5500, GP6500 and GP7500 would probably work, but much more expensive.
@@jcondon1 And you say this is chronic; you've seen it on 2 previous units. Did you bother to contact the manufacturer? Is there a recall or safety bulletin?
That generator head is still on Amazon. Price is now at $256. Homelite/Ryobi - Assembly Gen Head 5Kw Round - 310227016 www.amazon.com/dp/B008G47L22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_fThRFbVQCT013?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Can you help me find one like that or messenger me so I can show you what mine is. Mine looks like that one but it's a generac portable 6250/5000 the armature is bad. I can't find the alternator parts.
Take a look at this video. th-cam.com/video/OT2etRMdTVc/w-d-xo.html In the description are the part numbers I used for the rotor and stator. Might work on the Generac. Not an easy job for several reasons. Differences in wiring and the length of the stator will cause a ripple effect.
How do I find the correct stator and brushs and rotor. For mine thou. Model 0055771 Centurian 6250 peak 5000 watt. Serial 5404945A 120/240 Amp 41.7/20.8 Or can I just order the homelight one. I'm kind of confused with this
I have been wondering about that. I have seen a blk/red blue and wht hookt so the wht wire was the neutral so one coil had a blk an red other coil had a blue an wht. The wht being hookt to the red and 240 came off the blk and blue and 120 from wht to blk or blue. the blk an blue being the HOT legs with a bigger breaker and the bigger brkrs hookt to the 240 v socket and 2 20 amp or 15 amp brkrs to the 120 volt receps.
If you expect people to read what you've written, write properly. We were given the power of intricate communication for a reason, let's not regress back to stone age grunts and screeches.
i have a predator 7000/8500 and the end bracket broke by the mounts and the generator head end fell/dropped while it was running and it damaged both rotor and stator-both SHOT thanks to watching your vid,- i ohmed them out. So been looking for a suitable replacement Gen head but not find any sources, can you or anyone help point me in the right direction THANK YOU! GREAT informative video BTW !!!!!
Why is armature bolt turning so crooked , is it loose or just drilled crooked ? Great video , to bad we receive packages in the mail in that condition .!
What is the model number? Would first look at the AVR if it has one or the capacitor if a brushless model. Almost sounds like the system is trying to power up based on a capacitor charging. Also could be a brush issue. You should also check the ohms on all the stator coils and the rotor.
James Condon Thank you very much James for that helpful information. I agree with your assessment that having it is better than nothing. I would preferably avoid repeating your experience despite having your excellent video as a guide!
Nothing better than watching a man working when he knows what he's doing. Great job!!
Thanks
James Condon I got a free Duro Max 10,000 watt dual fuel pretty sure engine blew pull cord and I sounds like marbles coming from the engine and cant feel compression with the plug out. I called Duro Max replacement engine 486.00 to the door I never swapped engines on a generator I am going to try my first one this weekend watching your videos gave me more confidence.
Good luck. Take your time and take plenty of pictures. The most critical part will be removing the wiring and getting the powerhead off without damaging it.
@@jcondon1 Yes little nervous about removing the powerhead.
Once you have the motor running at 3600 or 1800rpm for 60hz, adjust the tiny brass screw on the back of the avr to get your voltage closer to the 110v you want in America.
The engine sounds like it's surging a little, take the emulsion tube and idle jet(generally a little black plastic plug on engines like that ) out of the carb and clean them, the main jet will come out to release the emulsion tube, clean that too.
Use a throttle body cleaner that foams and goes goey to soak them, then wash with a solvent.
Nice score on the generators, it's a great way to learn things. I've commented on a couple of videos looking for information regarding the avr wiring but think I've discovered the original notes i made when I learned how to test them.
I can add the information if it's useful to you.
Cheers!!
You would think by 2015 all generator manufactures would know, exhaust heat shields should be standard unless there is a 3+ inch air gap between muffler and gen. head. Great video, you rock!!!
Thanks
I really like your videos. I have been picking up generators for free or next to nothing and fixing them. The latest was a 7500 watt briggs for free and a $14 set of brushes fixed it. I really like your rope trick. Learn something new everyday.
Nice. It is hard to find them for free around here.
One, could also remove the pull starter - and make method, of STOPPING it from turning - ....
You gotta love USPS! My postmaster has said that she doesn't believe her letter carriers can even read!
HEY THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR MAKING THE FULL VIDEO AND NOT WHIMPING OUT AFTER THE FIRST VIDEO!! ALOT OF PEOPLE WOULD HAVE THROWN IT IN THE GARBAGE OR SCRAPED IT!!! Thank you soooo much for completing it all the way!!!
Your channel is going to blow up. Keep doing what you are doing.
Thanks. Been blowing up recently. 5k subs in 28 days! Yikes.
@@jcondon1 The matrix has found you...
I just put that same head on an old obsolete Generac 7000exl. I had to machine a taper adapter from the old rotor. It works great.
New to the channel, like how you work clean and organized, most of all you talk when you need to talk not mindless tribble. Looking forward to all previous and future videos. Cheers from Canada
Thanks!
Thanks for the video, it was very informative. I understood your caution about connecting the white wires at first, but I knew you didn't realize the stator power windings were isolated. I continued watching to see if you figured it out, and of course you did, followed by an excellent explanation. I really appreciate your time and effort making the videos, I am learning quite a bit from them. I've done valve lash, carb rebuilds, but never messed with the power head. Thank you !
Glad you got something out of it. Most people stop at the engine side of things.
Hand tighten the stator bolt at first. Fully torque the stator, after you installed he windings housing. The rear bearing fitment helps with perpendicularity issues for assembly balancing. The engine's taper end will better align with the stator shaft during the torque down. It could develop unwanted run-out otherwise, and possibly vibrate.
I think you mean rotor, not stator. Rotor is the rotating part, stator is the stationary section around the rotor.
Those power heads can be stripped down, cleaned, and re-wound in a electric motor shop. There is one in town here, about 4 miles North of me. They specialize in rewinding motors & generators ect.
Wish we had one here. I've called everybody inna 150 miles radius and nobody will touch a armature, and if thay do thay want 1200. To do it.
@@foodforthought73 I'm not sure how much S & W charges to do this. I'm sure it depends on the size of the unit.
@@lestergillis8171 ya. It's just a standard 4500 wat gen head on a Hobart welder generator, the armature
Definitely a lost art like getting your wheel cylinders bored, sleeved, honed and good to go for another ten-fifteen years.
Not worth the money
Thanks!
Great thought process in your videos.
Thanks! I really appreciate it.
Most bond to ground for construction purposes, in case of an osha inspection. Unfortunately it can cause gfci issues if using in a household emergency power situation
You sure make Hardwork look easy. I enjoyed every minute of the video.
Thank you so much 😊
Mate you are one clever fella it's great to watch you in action keep it up thanks
That's fine you've got the whole pieced 'parcel' on vid! USPS should pay the repairs... I hope.
Your video is really helpful
Thank you
THATS OUR AWARD WINNING USPS SERVICE FOR YOU.
Ah yes, was not their best moment. To be fair though, it was packaged very poorly.
you or great at what you do thanks have fun
Nice video… so much education in practicality
The air intake of the stator is 1/4" from the muffler, thereby pulling hot air into the stator windings. Thrrow the muffler over your shoulder, and just fabricate an elbow, to direct exhaust outward. Now there's plenty of room for a heat shield.....
Good Eye!
27:00 time . Make a heat shroud, and bolt/screw it to whatever is handy there, to separate housing from muffler, directing any air flow OUT and AWAY.....
Hurrah and thank-you again!
That little lock ring on the bearing was giving me fits. I tried again and I found that one side of the bearing has the groove deeper. If you spin it around it sits flush!
Heat Shield: Simply adding a heat shield will reduce the heat transmission slightly (minor reduction), however, moving the muffler away greatly reduces the head transmission. Note: Heat radiates radially outward, so the closer the muffler is to the generator the greater the heat transmission.
John Mauthner
... worked on gen sets for over 20 years and just retired. I can tell you the heat shield saves quite a bit... somewhere around 100 degrees cooler, but mostly after you shut the engine off, which is when the engine cooling air stops. Basically the "after boil" heat is what kills the winding insulation. The other aspect is that most people have no clue as to what 5 Kw can power and they are easy to overload with fridges, freezers, well pumps, etc. Of course an overload usually toasts the main windings, not the DPE winding.
Now I know what my slip rings should read, hopefully good since I have an identical PH on a another gen. Stater looks fairly easy to swap out. Great we'll done video, scoured you tube looking for answers!
Brilliant video, thank you from the UK.
Thanks
Good video. I’ve got to do this to my rigid 6500. Repair place said my stator is short circuited but I see nothing visable
I think you’re right. These generators are failing because the stator is getting too hot from the muffler.
They may also be failing because the winding are probably aluminum clad with copper instead of solid copper.
Muffler Comment: My recommendation is to get a 90 degree connect from the flange to the head pointing out and away. This will move the muffler away from the generator housing and eliminate your overheating and destruction of your outer winding which are in very close proximity of the muffler as it exists without this modification.
I did a video on a powerboss generator that had the muffler above the stator (actually a car muffler, that I return removed and set back to OEM). I thought that was strange at first given nobody else is doing that, but it makes things a lot cooler. Am working on one now that has sever vapor lock issues. Would be nice is manufacturers would give thought to the details.
Your name should be James Concise, keep up the great work!
Thanks
How do I identify the sense and excite connections on the generator end? The avr replacement i got doesn't have the same plug type, I've identified the sense pair and excite pair on the avr but I don't know how to match them with the 4 wires on the generator end!!
Hi, is there a way to use a generator head with other engine using a belt system?
I habe ben triyng but the rotor keeps touching the stator.
Srry for bad english
Not possible without some fabrication because the engine side of the rotor need the engine tapered shaft to center things.
Ok, thanks
Where do you look up your parts? I need a complete head for a 9000 Predator.
some times a good motor shop can rewind those burnt up fields cheaper than you can buy one depends on where you live
Should the center bolt be jumping around in that bearing like that ?
Is there another brand of generator head that matches the tapered shaft requirements for a Generac XT8000E?
Heat on half of it changed the resistance of electron flow creating even more heat. Just think how super conductors have to be very cold to work.
Thank you good work
Great content...I have to say to everyone though that I have found almost all homelife products inferior to defective from brand new.sooo...we ve got that going for us.thankyou..
Homelite not homelife
Great vid...and yes definitely needs the shield!
Great video!
Love your video.
I'm would run it with load for a half hour first, with 4000w loads
don't get me wrong you make great ilusttrative videos I am a good follower of you. it justify for video purposes thank you very much
James can you do a video and talk to us about how people burn up these generators. What are some of the ways that we need to avoid. the do's and dont's ..
When you buy a power head how do you know the crankshaft taper of the engine will match the power head? I can't believe the taper is standard with all manufacturers.
On the 5000-8000 watt generators there are two types of standard tapered shafts. There are some odd ones on older machines and an occasional odd one in newer machines.
Very nice
Very good video thanks for the info !!!. i just bought a westinghouse 7000 watt gen with remote start it is one sweet gen i love it !
Nice video, thanks :)
Really awesome job. Super slouth finding the missing capacity. Loved how you highlighted the spring jumping off🤣🤣. Once you replaced the carb it purred like a kitten 😸. Great catch at the end connecting the oil sensor.👍 Funny you mentioned the sustained winds over 40mph with gusts over 70. Our power went out Christmas morning at 3:30 am and was out for 19 hours. The Predator 6500 I picked up ran like a top. March can't come soon enough when the standby gets installed. Anyway keep up the great work. I learn something new every time. Happy New Year.
Our power was flickering all day, but managed to stay on somehow. A lot were without power on Christmas Day.
Another good demonstration. Talking about heat shield why some of those are painted black instead of shiny finish?
No reason that I know of.
@@jcondon1 I saw heat shield for fuel tank are shiny finished, should the generator shield be the same?
Where did you get one of these power heads
Why did you take the head apart and then re assemble? You can put the stator and rotor on all in one piece and not have to worry about the bearing or do any damage sliding the stator over.. great videos by the way!!
I think it could be put on as one piece. But is easier and safer to do in two steps.
soo... your repair videos are awesome.. especially for someone like me, who uses Gens, a lot.. also.. i built a smelter furnace.. from youtube.. lmao.. and a nice project you can do, is casting and melting of your scrap.. look into it..u must have a lot of scrap lying around..
I'm a newer subscriper to your channel and I would like to said your videos are very informative.. So I would like to thank you for this..
Thanks
TTI made the whole head or just the AVR? Never mind, I see that they did but they only make a chainsaw at this time. No more lite in Homelite.
Thank you for the information. They may have thought that the air is coming out of the generator head at front, or that is what it looked like, not east to know for sure from what little I could see. They may have thought that the air coming out would stop the heat from the muffler from damaging the generator. But that is just a thought from someone that didn't get a good look at the generator fan. I would put a R next to the place that got the red wire. I don't like trusting my memory where the wires go I also sometimes take a photo with my phone. Getting older and if it is a week or two before I can put it back together, I don't want to make a mistake. In school they told us to always mark where the wires go and it just stuck with me. Also learned the right handed motor rule, and left handed generator rule. But the way I learned it I can't tell on here. THANKS
Well, I am glad I record all of this because I find myself watching the video at time to remember how it should be put back together.
Fantastic work. I need to get you to rebuild my 2005 Subaru powered generator.
Your hook up is good but did you notice that the roter shaft bolt is wobbeling?
That is normal on these. The ID of the bearing is larger then the bolt. Recently have been building a should on the bolt with electrical tape to help center it.
So, did the heat shield line up with the old stater where it was burned?
Would it had been possible to inject the 4 volts ac the avr w/e needed externally, and see what output the generator can do?
That Generator should run entire House with well, I have same 1 runs everything even outside spot lights
nice repair, thank you
You bet
Do you know of anyone that makes a stub shaft and/or bearing plate to use old generator heads and make them belt driven?
brush holder not on right. . .What happens is the AVR wants to compare the 120 volts or a
tap off the 120 to use as a reference point for the excitation. so if this reference voltage is
a bit on the hi side it will tell the AVR to reduce excitation to the field or if on the low side,
it will tell the AVR to up the excitation to the rotor.
Should the bolt be replaced ?? Now days most bolts are one time use.
So to get 240v out of this to charge your Tesla or run your house dryer you would have to come off the hots on each side and both neutrals hooked together in one plug. Right?
Yes, that is essentially what the 240 outlet does.
James, I cannot find a more current video to ask this question.
Please share some O-scope screen shots comparing the 'trash level" of a regular
generator as compared to the newer INVERTER models now being produced.
I am going to make that video in a couple months.
I recently completed the install of my Generator inlet box/off-grid connection. I successfully ran the A/C and essentials, but feeling a little sketchy about today’s high-tech, digital TVs and the like. Granted, the transformer/rectifier circuits do a good bit of filtering....
That was a great video. I often wondered how the generator came apart. I did not see you install the right hand screw to the brush holder? Maybe I missed that but I didn't see it when you put the rear cover on for the last time? You probably already know this that the air is drawn in from the back side, through the cover toward the engine? No air is sucked in from the engine to the generator. Just the same, the heat shield is a real good idea. I have a Generac and it has a heat shield to shield the generator. Thanks again for a helpful video!
There is only one screw to hold the brushes on. The right side only has a tab to hold it in place.
@@jcondon1 I was wondering about that but I could not see it clearly. That video was the very first of your work that I even saw. I have had a lot of experience working with my own generators that supply all my power at my camp. Between one diesel and one gas generator I have produced over 16 thousand run hours of power over the years. I guess I thought you were kind of new at this until I discovered your volume of work and I can say that I am truly impressed! Thanks for being here. Terry
Good content
Thanks
Awesome job
Thanks
I just picked up an all power 6000 watt model APG3009N for 375 run like new mint condition about 10 yrs old
Looking for parts for a champion generator head and can't find them online anywhere. Any suggestions?
What is the Champion model number? How many cc's is the engine and what parts do you need? Most likely you can use honda clone 212cc parts or 420 cc parts.
@@jcondon1 it's a 46517 3500-4000 watt 196cc. It needs that gen head repair like you did in this video and I can't seem to locate the parts online.
At 22:33 when starting up 1st time - center rotor bolt seems to appear loose ?
Just off center. The ID of the ball bearing is larger then the bolt diameter. Recently been using electric tape to build a shoulder. Bolt goes in much better.
Intresting seeing TTI on that new motor, considering TTI is a tool company that own ryobi, milwaukee, empire, dirt devil, and other brands. Wonder what a tool company is doing making generator motor parts
Can you tell us where we can find part numbers for generator stators and rotors? There is a generator for sale listed as not producing power and I want to see what a stator and rotor would cost for it.
What brand is the generator? Usually the model number is on the generator frame or the stator. Usually they start at $300 to $1000 if available.
@@jcondon1 It's a DuroMax DS12000EH. The seller is asking $400 but I think that is too much for a generator that doesn't produce electricity. If the generator head isn't too expensive I would follow the steps you've shown us multiple times in your videos to get it working and if that doesn't work then replace it if not too costly.
@@TheTechnoSpark duromax generators new are not very expensive. $400 is almost the working price. Would not pay more then $100. Also not sure if Duromax supplies parts like that. Possible a Ryobi or Generac power head would fit, but would need modification.
@@jcondon1 Thank you. I greatly appreciate your feedback.
I don't know if you could see it but the terminal block had --L1 and L something else on it. Would that be line or load ?
My rotor isnt rubbing when i turn the motor over at all but when i start it the thing rubs and throws sparks . Still has voltage but only when it runs will it rub.. like its a magnetic force pulling it.. annoying.. i dunno how to fix that.. rotor goes in straight, torque to same thing.. but its just weird..
James, I am in a similar situation with a 15 year old Black Max generator. The engine is a 13 horse Honda, and he old burnt out generator that I want to replace is a 6500 watt Powermate PM0496750. Any ideas on where to find a new unit that will bolt up to my engine? I have it all stripped down to the bell housing now, just looking for parts.
BTW, those are some great generator repair videos you have been putting out. New subscriber here!
I would check out the Ryobi parts for their 5500 watt generator. It was very affordable. Used a Ryobi stator and rotor on this powermate and managed to get it to work. th-cam.com/video/OT2etRMdTVc/w-d-xo.html. Otherwise the power heads fir the Generac GP5500, GP6500 and GP7500 would probably work, but much more expensive.
Nice work, great video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
One would think it prudent to run a meter test on the new unit before going into the disassembly process.......
Excellent
I wonder if that heat shield being missing dident have something to do with the melt down in the gen cause ill bet it was hot as hell !!!!
I am sure it did.
@@jcondon1 And you say this is chronic; you've seen it on 2 previous units. Did you bother to contact the manufacturer? Is there a recall or safety bulletin?
Go to 29:01 on your videos time. Is that a crack in the housing just to the right and slightly below your finger?
Just a casting mark
great vid James , i'm working on a yamaha gen ,, refreshing it ,,,,,,,,,,,cheers
What size metal rods do you use?
You should put on a new bell head in case the old one is crack
Where did find it for the price you stated. I'm searching for one now and cannot find one new for under 425.00.
That generator head is still on Amazon. Price is now at $256. Homelite/Ryobi - Assembly Gen Head 5Kw Round - 310227016 www.amazon.com/dp/B008G47L22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_fThRFbVQCT013?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
@@jcondon1 thanks bud. I found it.
For that price the windig is most likely not copper but copper coated aluminum wires.
Can you help me find one like that or messenger me so I can show you what mine is. Mine looks like that one but it's a generac portable 6250/5000 the armature is bad. I can't find the alternator parts.
Take a look at this video. th-cam.com/video/OT2etRMdTVc/w-d-xo.html
In the description are the part numbers I used for the rotor and stator. Might work on the Generac. Not an easy job for several reasons. Differences in wiring and the length of the stator will cause a ripple effect.
@@jcondon1 I watched it. I'll try to find the link
How do I find the correct stator and brushs and rotor. For mine thou.
Model 0055771
Centurian 6250 peak 5000 watt.
Serial 5404945A
120/240
Amp 41.7/20.8
Or can I just order the homelight one. I'm kind of confused with this
Is it true that most generator comes with Engine Oil inside and tested from the Factory before selling Outside??
Not sure about that. Always buy used. I know the Briggs Storm Reponders did come profiled with oil. Not sure if they were run at the factory.
Do you have any idea about how much efficiency for such alternator? Is it 50% or close to 90%
Sorry do not know that information.
I have been wondering about that. I have seen a blk/red blue and wht hookt so the wht wire
was the neutral so one coil had a blk an red other coil had a blue an wht. The wht being hookt
to the red and 240 came off the blk and blue and 120 from wht to blk or blue. the blk an blue
being the HOT legs with a bigger breaker and the bigger brkrs hookt to the 240 v socket and 2
20 amp or 15 amp brkrs to the 120 volt receps.
If you expect people to read what you've written, write properly.
We were given the power of intricate communication for a reason, let's not regress back to stone age grunts and screeches.
nice video thank you
Thanks
i have a predator 7000/8500 and the end bracket broke by the mounts and the generator head end fell/dropped while it was running and it damaged both rotor and stator-both SHOT thanks to watching your vid,-
i ohmed them out. So been looking for a suitable replacement Gen head but not find any sources, can you or anyone help point me in the right direction THANK YOU! GREAT informative video BTW !!!!!
Why is armature bolt turning so crooked , is it loose or just drilled crooked ? Great video , to bad we receive packages in the mail in that condition .!
The hole where the bolt goes in the armature is always larger then the bolt. It is nearly impossible to keep the bolt centered when torquing it down.
Hey James, what is those letters AVR mean?
Automatic Voltage Regulator. It monitors the output on the 120 volt outlets and adjusts the power going to the rotor to maintain 120 volts.
I have a generator that is pulsing about ever half min it throw enough electric to turn a drill about a turn any ideals what causing this
What is the model number? Would first look at the AVR if it has one or the capacitor if a brushless model. Almost sounds like the system is trying to power up based on a capacitor charging. Also could be a brush issue. You should also check the ohms on all the stator coils and the rotor.
I have that same generator without the heat shield. Can I ask where you ordered it and what the part number was? Thanks
The part number is 638539002. I think I got it from Part Tree. If you google that number there are plenty of places that sell it.
James Condon Thank you very much James for that helpful information. I agree with your assessment that having it is better than nothing. I would preferably avoid repeating your experience despite having your excellent video as a guide!