You did great work there but unfortunately what you found was not the source of your parasitic drain. Because you were indicating approximately 12 volts across that fuse (i.e. about the voltage of your car battery) you were basically showing that the fuse was completely blown - open circuit - which was confirmed by the fact that your radio started working again when you replaced the fuse. You are correct by the way, fuses are fuses and any replacement fuse (of the correct rating) will work fine. Because the fuse was blown, the radio wasn’t getting any power and therefore can’t possibly have been the source of your parasitic drain. What you were looking for was a fuse that was reading millivolts (mV on your meter) when you probe across it. Every electrical conductor (apart from a superconductor) has some resistance, even the short piece of metal in a fuse, so if some current is flowing in the circuit then there will be a very tiny voltage drop across the fuse (tiny because the resistance is very very low and hopefully the current is also very low). If no current is flowing then there will be no voltage drop and your meter will read zero. A very very rough rule of thumb would be that if you measure 0.5mV across a mini fuse like you have, that would indicate that that circuit is drawing about 50mA. Hope this helps!
Wow! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! The thing that interests me is the fact that I no longer have a dead car when it sits for periods of time. Do you think I could have had the multimeter on the wrong setting?
@@Sam_Dunn I think you had the correct setting on your multimeter, the one you were using looks like it does auto-ranging (at about 6:20 it's displaying 10.2mV). Not sure why the problem has gone away but one possibility is that your door switch is a bit dodgy and clamping it like you did (great idea BTW) "fixed" it. I have a 2008 LS600hL which is how I came to find your YT channel. :)
That’s great to hear, I got nervous when the radio didn’t work. I would also like to mention the amplifier has a common issue of going out. Usually the circuit board corrodes due to where it’s located. If you do replace it, make sure the part numbers match. I hope this helps.
I was so confused when Ed sent me a picture of you working on your car the other day upside down. It all makes sense now 😭
You did great work there but unfortunately what you found was not the source of your parasitic drain. Because you were indicating approximately 12 volts across that fuse (i.e. about the voltage of your car battery) you were basically showing that the fuse was completely blown - open circuit - which was confirmed by the fact that your radio started working again when you replaced the fuse. You are correct by the way, fuses are fuses and any replacement fuse (of the correct rating) will work fine. Because the fuse was blown, the radio wasn’t getting any power and therefore can’t possibly have been the source of your parasitic drain.
What you were looking for was a fuse that was reading millivolts (mV on your meter) when you probe across it.
Every electrical conductor (apart from a superconductor) has some resistance, even the short piece of metal in a fuse, so if some current is flowing in the circuit then there will be a very tiny voltage drop across the fuse (tiny because the resistance is very very low and hopefully the current is also very low). If no current is flowing then there will be no voltage drop and your meter will read zero. A very very rough rule of thumb would be that if you measure 0.5mV across a mini fuse like you have, that would indicate that that circuit is drawing about 50mA. Hope this helps!
Wow! Thank you for sharing your knowledge! The thing that interests me is the fact that I no longer have a dead car when it sits for periods of time. Do you think I could have had the multimeter on the wrong setting?
@@Sam_Dunn I think you had the correct setting on your multimeter, the one you were using looks like it does auto-ranging (at about 6:20 it's displaying 10.2mV). Not sure why the problem has gone away but one possibility is that your door switch is a bit dodgy and clamping it like you did (great idea BTW) "fixed" it.
I have a 2008 LS600hL which is how I came to find your YT channel. :)
“If it does I’m gonna be a really happy guy, and even if it doesn’t I’ll still be a happy guy cause life is good yk”
Wise words from Sam
That’s great to hear, I got nervous when the radio didn’t work. I would also like to mention the amplifier has a common issue of going out. Usually the circuit board corrodes due to where it’s located. If you do replace it, make sure the part numbers match. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the advice!!
please make a video om how to fix the amp for the speakers
what web site had the fuse listing??
Hey man, here is a website that has the fuse list.
www.scribd.com/document/559974411/Fuse-Box-Diagram-Lexus-LS430-XF30-2000-2006
I bet you anything it is both front doors led lights stay on , but very low lighting !!!
Should I just take the two lights out and that will tell me? If the battery stopped dying
Great to see you bringing both of those beauties back into operation and I love the jacket where can I get it!
A good friend got it for me! Not sure where they picked it up!
How did you get the fuse function list?
Just found it online. Here’s the link.
www.autogenius.info/lexus-ls-430-2000-2006-fuse-box-diagram/amp/
Yes both vents should move, oscillating fans is a feature
So cool!!! I had no idea😂
best best best