Guys dont forget to pick up one of our newest "Stoney Ridge Speed Shop" T-shirts...WE HAVE TO SELL 9 MORE TO PRINT!! HERE'S A LINK TO OUR LATEST DESIGNS!! WOOOOOOO!! JUST CLICK HERE: www.bonfire.com/stoney-ridge-speed-shop/ and our new "Farm Fencing" shirt: www.bonfire.com/if-it-aint-tight-it-aint-right/ (celebrating fencing in a very delightful way!! Wooooooo!!)
I love watching u learn ur way thru this. My Dad was killed wen I was a kid & I held on to his old Ford pickup & I didnt know nuthin but I was determaned to fix it up. It's been yrs now but I am like a encyclopedia with info now on old Fords & I am proud of MY old Ford now. It hardly has any original parts anymore & my uncles give me crap that it's not even like it was wen my Dad had it & I tell them that's becouse it's not his truck anymore, its mine.
Josh, we never had a tractor on our Maine apple orchard/farm. We had a 48 willys jeep. It did everything needed. Plowed and harrowed an acre of garden, pulled the sprayer, did the haying, and hauled it to the barn in a trailer Dad built to move us from California when I was 5, and hauled all us kids to our local lake to swim. I remember riding in the back with bull calves from the dairy in the next town when our cow freshened, singing Down in the Valley to the cow when she walked behind the jeep to visit a neighbor's bull. But it also put me out of business as a young teenager. I had been raising N.Z. rabbits and decided I could do it big time if I cleaned out the old brooder cages in the barn. I mean I did some work! Pulled out the inner walls and corn cob insulation, pulled out all the pans under the cages and scrubbed them, set them out on the stone wall to dry. That was my mistake. Dad saw all that nice sheet metal and claimed them to fix the body of the jeep. Most of what I know about mechanical stuff I learned while watching Dad and a friend rebuild it. Great memories of a machine that was as old as I was and almost a member of the family. It pretty much kept us fed as children!
It looks like the brushes have been replaced already. They honestly didn't look very worn. I'd just about bet if it was all de-rusted / cleaned up and put back together it would work. But to make it reliable it's either gonna have to be rebuilt with new windings or replaced. Wish I was close by. I'd come by to help out with the jeep.
On my Chev wagon starter broke. My Uncle took the brushes for his IHC tractor generator and they fit in the Chev starter and away I went. All Delco and that starter of his looked like a Delco also.
My dad was a World War II and before he passed, he always talked about getting a jeep just to ride in. When he was in the US Army, he was a combat infantry with the 24th Infantry with General McArther during the invasion of Leyte, when McArthur made and fulfilled his statement, "I shall return." Dad always said, since he was on foot always, he always wanted to ride in one like the ones he saw pass him by so many times. He did not get the chance. But I am glad you are reviving your Jeep.
To change that type of brushes you don't have to take it apart. Remove the cover on the side that covers the brushes. Get about 6 inches of coat hanger wire. Make a 90 degree bend on one end about 1/2" long. Use that little hook to pull back the spring. Then you can pull out the brush.
Best advice is to pull the generator and take it in with the Starter. Reasoning is that if the starter is full of mouse stuff so is the generator. Plus now is a good time to get them both done together.
As you probably noticed, there is only one bushing on this starter. The other one is in the bell housing. Replacing it is not for the faint hearted, At the very least, make sure there is plenty of oil in it when you put the starter back on. Since there is only one bushing on the starter, you really can't bench test it because the starter drive end has no support. The rotating part of the starter is called the armature and the part that the brushes contact is called the commutator. Most motor brushes are made of carbon, but starter motor brushes are a metal composition. The brushes in that starter did not seem to be worn out, just worn. One of the biggest problems is that the band that goes around the starter housing to protect the brushes is missing. This allows mice and other environmental hazards access to the inside of the starter. I'm curious as to what the inside of the starter switch looks like. The starter switch is analogous to starter solenoid on modern vehicles and a bad one could cause the starter to behave just like it has been doing. The holes around the outside of the housing are used to allow the brushes to be installed in their holders after the starter is assembled. Fifty years ago, I was a high school senior driving a 1947 CJ2A that I put together the summer before. It's been that long since I've had one apart, but I can tell you that they will never turn like a modern starter. Clean connections are the key to getting any kind of performance out of them. You can jump start these Jeeps from 12 Volt batteries, but the starter will burn out quickly if you do it for very long. The fuel pump has a strainer and fuel sediment bowl on top of it. The strainer only keeps the big chunks out of the caburetor. The dirt drops to the bottom of the sediment bowl and gravity keeps the dirt (and water) out of the carburetor. I don't know if you can still get these styles of fuel pumps. You may need to install an inline fuel filter before the float valve.
I use two methods to remove bushings from a blind hole.... 1. Pack the bushing with grease and insert a snug fitting metal shaft. Having a metal lathe helps... Hit the end of the shaft with a hammer and hydraulic pressure will drive the bushing out. You may need to add grease as the bushing comes out. 2. Use a tap to thread the bore of the bushing. Use a bolt or some threaded rod to pull the bushing out.
Yep, just looked like the starter needed a good cleaning. 6 volt system is pretty picky. Clean, tight and bright is the standard for all voltages but extremely important with 6 Volt. Also heavy battery cables. Almost any part needed is still available for those old things. As far as your Farmall? That Super A with it's whopping 17 HP? Try Steiner Tractor. They have a site. If not there Yesterdays Tractors. Good place for you to get advice is Red Power Forums.
Josh disconnect the earth lead from the battery . The gear end of the starter is supported in the housing , so it may not run unless it is supported as the armature may touch the field coils inside the starter case. Disconnect the solenoid. So when its all apart polish up the commutator (the copper strips) on the armature with some fine sandpaper. The smoother the better contact. Clean the bushes and bendix (gear where it slides on the shaft) lube with a couple of drops of oil and on the end where it goes into the housing. The bronze bushes are made to be porous and accept oil. When they are new, before you fit them you sit the bush on your thumb and fill it with oil, then bring your finger down on it until it squeezes the oil out through the sides. then you fit them. Clean the contacts in the solenoid to give them the best contact you can. get the shop to do it as it needs new insulation. While you are in town buy an inline filter or two and a couple of hose clips and hose. a set of points a condensor and plugs. As for the generator it may be easier to fit a 12 volt alternator and loose the 6v system and voltage regulator as 6v batteries are getting harder to come by and 12v is way better than 6v. You will also need a ballast resistor for the coil and one for the wipers too and some new 12v bulbs and obviously a 12v battery. now to get that horn working polish up the contacts in it and there will be an adjusting screw to set the frequency of the bits that vibrate giving its tone. A 6v starter will run on 12v but its hard on it.
They kept the size of that chassis, but used Rover car engine and gearbox in production. Construction is like any UK small lorry of the time, with plain folded sheet. Odd bit is large amount of aircraft aluminum and rivets in it (plenty of stock from 1945)
The Willis Jeep was designed by BSA in England and they demonstrated it to the American army But they didn't buy it but produced one of there own a copy of it and put a bigger engine in it I think it was a ford engine .It was a story in a Landrover magazine.
Just an FYI - the orange spray can that you removed when dunging out the Jeep was Kroil, simply the very best penetrating oil in the WORLD. Makes PB Blaster look like cat piss, lmao. HOPE YOU KEPT IT - if it still sprays you will be AMAZED at how good it is!!
Came back and rewatched this video because I'm restoring a 48 CJ2A and having slow starter issues. From what I'm learning, you need 0 to 00ga battery and starter cable to get the most power from the battery. All ground points have to have great clean contact including where the start motor bolts to the bracket and where the bracket bolts into the engine block and also where the start motor seats to the bell housing. The battery ground cable also has to have a clean contact, and there should be a flat ground strap from the block to the frame under the battery box. 6v systems rely on excellent grounds. In my opinion, if you're doing a stock restoration you'll want to stay with 6v instead of going to a 12v conversion. 12v will turn the starter faster, but if everything is in good working order you don't need 12v and you'll feel the pride in knowing you did it right instead of cheating and spending a lot more money with 12v for an alternator, lights, coil, starter, etc.. Cars, Jeeps, and tractors all ran just fine for many years up until the mid to late 50s on 6v systems. Also, your starter is supposed to have a cover that clamps on over the hole slots and that's why you had crud in there.
Love old Willys jeeps. I've had 2A's and 3As. First thing I would do is put in a 12v battery, Delco 1 wire alternator change some light bulbs and keep the patina. Loved driving on and off road.
I grew up on my grandpa's farm with a red '56 Willys Jeep with a hard top. I'm glued to these episodes of your '52, hoping it hear that old engine turn over!! I've been a Jeep lover all my life, and this makes me feel like a kid again!
If the fuel tank is roached there is a two-part epoxy specifically made for sealing them. You put it in, rotate the tank so that all wall surfaces are covered, let it dry, re-cut the holes if necessary and put it all back together.
Please do a restore on the Willy’s jeep as it might bring some money back for you in the future and it would bring some new people to your channel thanks for the content
Restoration is not required for these to be worth money. Some people actually want stuff that has patina - not some fancied up painted thing that isn’t worth any more $$!
@@JohnyTopaz Thanks for saying that, Original and used is a very strong selling point even to a restorer. I think they are both fabulous ways of saving things from a different era if done as close to whatever version of 'Original' you prefer.. Brand new, or used but fully functional to your purpose or desire.
Bought a 1950 for $500 off a farm 20yrs back. Wired it for 12V using a GM alternator. Restored the gas tank and A little fresh gas in that ole Weber carb and it started every time. Used it to get wood for years than sold it. Miss that thing went everywhere in 4 low.
Josh Enjoy your channel. I owned a 47 Willys which I now regret selling it back in 1971. One thing to consider is what type of antifreeze to use my 1951 8N as well as the Willys like alcohol based. Just saying. I would suggest you keep it a 6 volt system and as original as possible. I look forward to see the project proceed. Take care.
There are a lot of parts for that machine still available, the fuel sight bowl should have a filter inside just take that filter out and clean it with carb cleaner. Good luck 👍
The auto sparky will probably give you a bush to go into the bellhousing for the starter. this is how they get the old bush out. You lube the new bush as i described below. you hunt through your box of thread cutting taps. I'm guessing it will take a 7/16 tap. you wind the tap into the old bush which will be in a blind hole and as it bottoms out it will hopefully draw out the bush. clean out the hole. Then the shop will use a piece of shaft or long bolt or a piece of doweling that has been turned down or ground so it has a shoulder to fit into the new bush. You use this to drive it in. If you use a socket and extension be careful not to flare the end of the bush.
You need to pour a lil oil or oil mix in on top of the pistons and let it sit it’s usually first step for somthing that’s been sitting so long and also pull the plugs and turn the motor by hand for a min it should be easy because there is no compression on the plugs
Hello; The engine in your Jeep is probably the 134 cu in flathead four. It is the same engine I had in my '48 Ford 8n tractor. I would have the generator rebuilt, too. Have fun!
To the best of my 70 years of knowledge gained working on farm tractor the Ford tractor used a Ford engine, when Ford merged with Ferguson there was a Ford Ferguson which used a Continental 134 engine which was a over head valve engine, while the Ford was a flat head, very similar to the old Model A car. Ford had the distributor down on the front of the engine for many years, then replaced it with a side mount distributor, also at front of engine in same area. JB
What a great project. Depends on how much money you have, it deserves a full restoration just for the fact that you rode around your dad's farm when you were a kid. Good luck with your project what ever you decide. I like your channel very fun to watch.
That is a glass bowl fuel pump with filter built in, RockAuto still sells them so does NAPA. The easiest way that I have seen and used to clean out those old Willy's fuel tank is to put a gallon of kerosene in it along with a 1 1/2' - 2' of chain and then put the lid back on, close up the fuel lines and shake the crap out of it or seeing how you have a tractor handy strap the tank to the back wheel and drive around for a while and it will clean the crap out of the tank
Buy and use a baking soda blaster. You can get it at Harbor Freight for 9.99 and I used it extensively on my 1965 VW Bug restoration.. You would be amazed at how clean the engine small parts looked and actually looked better than new. It was great to clean electrical connections. I had a 6 volt system too. Get everything as clean as you can so that you can minimize any problems. I suggest you get a new gas tank too and fuel lines. Great videos.
Josh that is fuel bowl. There is no filter other than a screen. Contaminates settle at the bottom. Good luck fitting that screen back on. Check with Omix Ada. I have bought many of their products for my 47 Willys CJ2a
I saw you mentioned the putting the positive on the starter button where most 6 volt systems I've dealt with are positive ground so the negative battery cable would go to the starter button. Should check on that. Either way most pieces need to be rebuilt or replaced. We had a '47 for plowing the driveway. It sat for a while and I tried to start it, ended up taking the head off and pistons were totally rusted in place. I gave up after that. Thanks for sharing.
Also you need to do as Robert Hardwick suggested and switch to a 12 volt system, including all lights. That would include the instrument panel lights, not as big problem, just change the bulbs.
That fuel pump bowl is called a sediment bowl. Typical on British vehicles of the era as well! maybe that info will help with parts? I would suggest checking the diaphragm in the pump too. If it leaks it can allow fuel into the sump since it is operated by a lobe on the cam
Unscrew the fuel pump and manually work the pump lever to see if it still draws in fuel. Other wise you might need to rebuild it with new diaphragm and check valves.
You can run that starter on 12 volt batt and it will work great ! Get a 12 volt coil and a single wire 12 volt delco alternator and Change bulbs and your set up for 12 volt
Awesome project I have 1962 CJ5 , Your CJ3A is good shape Love to see it restore to original shape, but, its yours. your project. 1st most important thing, go find a repair manual for your model of Jeep, it will have all the torque specs when you go back rebuilding it. Three things a engine must have to run, enough Compression in the cylinders, Fuel to the cylinders and Spark to the spark plug, without anyone of these, it won't run. Smart move on letting someone rebuild the starter, eliminate that problem, move to something else. I use to rebuild starters/Alternators for my Dad in his Auto repair shop high school, 40 years ago. You can plate off the mechanical fuel pump and install electric pump with 2 good quality clear inline fuel filter, one coming out of fuel tank before fuel pump, one after fuel pump before Carb. I would be surprised if the carburetor is not gunked up, the rebuild kits are available. I haven't seen anything other than WD40 in the cylinders, pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders, works every time. Good luck enjoying the Project, I have 4 International 1961/62 Scout 80s for another project in the future.
Brushes look fine to me, the whole starter was just dirty and gummed up with old grease. That whole fuel system, tank, lines, pump, filter, carb needs to be removed and dooshed out seriously before even thinking about running.
Absolutely! Had the same problem in my ‘72 Datsun 510 - starter wouldn’t turn over the engine. For $0, I took it apart, lubed it all up and cleaned up the slots between the copper on the commutator, and it was good to go!
I had the same problem with an old 8n Ford tractor and before I converted it to a 12 volt system, I put an 8 volt golf cart battery in it and it would spin the starter faster. You have to wire only the starter to it because it will blow the bulbs in the lights.
I use to have an old jeep grand Cherokee. Starter was going on it. But I carried a hammer with me lol got through a winter that way before I had to replace it. Miss my "Cheap Jeep" yes that was her name and she loved it. Got her to almost 400,xxx km ✌💛
the common thing to do on the L head 134 engine is to run a chevy alternator and an ''igniter'' electronic ignition swap(replaces the points in the distributor) and run a k and n air filter swap instead of the oil bath filter, there is also a weber 2 barrel carburetor u can get that bolts right on in place of the 1 barrel thats on it
if you find that the parts list is getting too much to find on the local shopping channels, switch to the Buick 225 V6 (1966-71) then u can get parts from most GM engines to keep life in that machine. it bolts right up to the flywheel and you have a ton more powah
I'd get it running then do a small project to it each month like brakes, lights, horns, then one big project a year, paint, interior, engine / trans overhaul.
Josh there is a company that makes a fuel tank restoration kit you may want to look for. I don't know if you want to buy a new tank but their kit works great for 4 wheelers.
For your gas tank there is a product it's called Por 15 it comes in a kit for about $100.It will clean the rust out of your tank and put a like coat inside your tank . I used it on a 1947 John Deere G tank it worked like the youtube video said it would .
Ah ! I see you favour the Irish hammer for knocking on the casing to loosen it. Over here in the UK, we just use it for its basic function.....As a screw driver. !
Don't give up on the horns yet or any electrical. You mentioned 6v pos ground. From what I'm seeing your going -ground. Basically your chassis is hooked to pos post on battery which is your mesh wire to engine. Everything else is hooked to the NEGATIVE on the battery. So horn on fender and wire to pos on batt is actually shorting. It's confusing at first but it'll sink in eventually. I've got a 50 dodge same set up. Just remember everything is backwards to what you are used to
If you machine the armature makes sure you use virgin (carbon)brushes. The ports where the brushes are should allow for inspection and removal/replacement without disassemble. Use a spring hook tool or similar to raise the spring just enough to remove the brush then ease the brush spring down into it's well. Black electrical tape is only evidence that the original factory didn't invest in anything better to insulate wire connections. I have an apiary to.
Reading about the beginnings of the British SAS Military Unit. They used these jeeps, which they heavily modified (absolutely bristling with guns that were designed to be on planes and also inserted bulletproof windscreens from Hurricane fighters), in the North African Desert. Driving onto German/Italian airfields and shooting up and destroying aircraft.
When the SAS was formed (in 1941), they would've used the Willys MB or Ford GPW, which are the predecessors of all other military and civilian Jeeps. Note: There were other "Jeep-type" vehicles used before the MB and GPW, but these were the "trial" vehicles. the MB and Ford GPW were the first mass-built models for the Allies military forces (41 to 45). Note#2: The GPW part of the Ford model was what lead to, first, the nickname and then the official name Jeep.
Josh don't try to fuel thru the lines until you have that tank cleaned or replaced that rust his a problem disconnect the fuel line put some gas in a jug to try starting the engine
I had to get a new pump for mine I didnt want to but it was cheaper than a rebuild kit. It works good the only problem was i had to sand down bowl because it was anything but flat and didnt seal at all. Also if you get a new tank get a poly one not steel these cheap new ones rust out in like a year. You should really clean out the bell housing if you can the mouse debris can easily cause clutch problems it happend on my cj5 though yours has a different type of clutch.
I'm pretty sure there should have been a metal band around where that opening by the brushes. Lots of water and crud can get in there. I'm sure whoever does your rebuild will put in bushings(the rear one looked very dry) or at least lube things up as well.
Josh get that thing runnin and you can be in the 4TH of July Parade (after all you are a veteran) That would make a cool vlog That starter looked like it went thru the Normandy Invasion
Guys dont forget to pick up one of our newest "Stoney Ridge Speed Shop" T-shirts...WE HAVE TO SELL 9 MORE TO PRINT!! HERE'S A LINK TO OUR LATEST DESIGNS!! WOOOOOOO!! JUST CLICK HERE: www.bonfire.com/stoney-ridge-speed-shop/ and our new "Farm Fencing" shirt: www.bonfire.com/if-it-aint-tight-it-aint-right/ (celebrating fencing in a very delightful way!! Wooooooo!!)
Stoney Ridge Farmer please call I have a great proposition for you
+94771716455
I like it Willy's Jeep
I love watching u learn ur way thru this. My Dad was killed wen I was a kid & I held on to his old Ford pickup & I didnt know nuthin but I was determaned to fix it up. It's been yrs now but I am like a encyclopedia with info now on old Fords & I am proud of MY old Ford now. It hardly has any original parts anymore & my uncles give me crap that it's not even like it was wen my Dad had it & I tell them that's becouse it's not his truck anymore, its mine.
Jesse don't be taking any shit from your uncles. What you done is a great tribute to your dad. He'd be mighty proud of you. Greetings from Ireland.
NO NO, on the horn, you just need to adjust the screw for the points and diaphragm to get the vibration right and it will sound great.
Josh, we never had a tractor on our Maine apple orchard/farm. We had a 48 willys jeep. It did everything needed. Plowed and harrowed an acre of garden, pulled the sprayer, did the haying, and hauled it to the barn in a trailer Dad built to move us from California when I was 5, and hauled all us kids to our local lake to swim. I remember riding in the back with bull calves from the dairy in the
next town when our cow freshened, singing Down in the Valley to the cow when she walked behind the jeep to visit a neighbor's bull.
But it also put me out of business as a young teenager. I had been raising N.Z. rabbits and decided I could do it big time if I cleaned out the old brooder cages in the barn. I mean I did some work! Pulled out the inner walls and corn cob insulation, pulled out all the pans under the cages and scrubbed them, set them out on the stone wall to dry. That was my mistake. Dad saw all that nice sheet metal and claimed them to fix the body of the jeep. Most of what I know about mechanical stuff I learned while watching Dad and a friend rebuild it.
Great memories of a machine that was as old as I was and almost a member of the family. It pretty much kept us fed as children!
Great story Dottie, what a good upbringing. Bet you and me could talk till the cows come home as we say in Ireland.
It looks like the brushes have been replaced already. They honestly didn't look very worn.
I'd just about bet if it was all de-rusted / cleaned up and put back together it would work.
But to make it reliable it's either gonna have to be rebuilt with new windings or replaced.
Wish I was close by. I'd come by to help out with the jeep.
On my Chev wagon starter broke. My Uncle took the brushes for his IHC tractor generator and they fit in the Chev starter and away I went. All Delco and that starter of his looked like a Delco also.
My dad was a World War II and before he passed, he always talked about getting a jeep just to ride in. When he was in the US Army, he was a combat infantry with the 24th Infantry with General McArther during the invasion of Leyte, when McArthur made and fulfilled his statement, "I shall return." Dad always said, since he was on foot always, he always wanted to ride in one like the ones he saw pass him by so many times. He did not get the chance. But I am glad you are reviving your Jeep.
It’ll be cool to see this thing bouncing around the Stoney ridge farm👍🏻
To change that type of brushes you don't have to take it apart. Remove the cover on the side that covers the brushes. Get about 6 inches of coat hanger wire. Make a 90 degree bend on one end about 1/2" long. Use that little hook to pull back the spring. Then you can pull out the brush.
Thank you for your service
Lets try to get 50 likes if you support veterans
Best advice is to pull the generator and take it in with the Starter. Reasoning is that if the starter is full of mouse stuff so is the generator. Plus now is a good time to get them both done together.
As you probably noticed, there is only one bushing on this starter. The other one is in the bell housing. Replacing it is not for the faint hearted, At the very least, make sure there is plenty of oil in it when you put the starter back on. Since there is only one bushing on the starter, you really can't bench test it because the starter drive end has no support. The rotating part of the starter is called the armature and the part that the brushes contact is called the commutator. Most motor brushes are made of carbon, but starter motor brushes are a metal composition. The brushes in that starter did not seem to be worn out, just worn. One of the biggest problems is that the band that goes around the starter housing to protect the brushes is missing. This allows mice and other environmental hazards access to the inside of the starter. I'm curious as to what the inside of the starter switch looks like. The starter switch is analogous to starter solenoid on modern vehicles and a bad one could cause the starter to behave just like it has been doing. The holes around the outside of the housing are used to allow the brushes to be installed in their holders after the starter is assembled. Fifty years ago, I was a high school senior driving a 1947 CJ2A that I put together the summer before. It's been that long since I've had one apart, but I can tell you that they will never turn like a modern starter. Clean connections are the key to getting any kind of performance out of them. You can jump start these Jeeps from 12 Volt batteries, but the starter will burn out quickly if you do it for very long.
The fuel pump has a strainer and fuel sediment bowl on top of it. The strainer only keeps the big chunks out of the caburetor. The dirt drops to the bottom of the sediment bowl and gravity keeps the dirt (and water) out of the carburetor. I don't know if you can still get these styles of fuel pumps. You may need to install an inline fuel filter before the float valve.
I use two methods to remove bushings from a blind hole.... 1. Pack the bushing with grease and insert a snug fitting metal shaft. Having a metal lathe helps... Hit the end of the shaft with a hammer and hydraulic pressure will drive the bushing out. You may need to add grease as the bushing comes out. 2. Use a tap to thread the bore of the bushing. Use a bolt or some threaded rod to pull the bushing out.
Yep, just looked like the starter needed a good cleaning. 6 volt system is pretty picky. Clean, tight and bright is the standard for all voltages but extremely important with 6 Volt. Also heavy battery cables. Almost any part needed is still available for those old things. As far as your Farmall? That Super A with it's whopping 17 HP? Try Steiner Tractor. They have a site. If not there Yesterdays Tractors. Good place for you to get advice is Red Power Forums.
Josh disconnect the earth lead from the battery . The gear end of the starter is supported in the housing , so it may not run unless it is supported as the armature may touch the field coils inside the starter case. Disconnect the solenoid. So when its all apart polish up the commutator (the copper strips) on the armature with some fine sandpaper. The smoother the better contact. Clean the bushes and bendix (gear where it slides on the shaft) lube with a couple of drops of oil and on the end where it goes into the housing. The bronze bushes are made to be porous and accept oil. When they are new, before you fit them you sit the bush on your thumb and fill it with oil, then bring your finger down on it until it squeezes the oil out through the sides. then you fit them. Clean the contacts in the solenoid to give them the best contact you can. get the shop to do it as it needs new insulation. While you are in town buy an inline filter or two and a couple of hose clips and hose. a set of points a condensor and plugs. As for the generator it may be easier to fit a 12 volt alternator and loose the 6v system and voltage regulator as 6v batteries are getting harder to come by and 12v is way better than 6v. You will also need a ballast resistor for the coil and one for the wipers too and some new 12v bulbs and obviously a 12v battery. now to get that horn working polish up the contacts in it and there will be an adjusting screw to set the frequency of the bits that vibrate giving its tone. A 6v starter will run on 12v but its hard on it.
12 volt, best move I ever made. Proper bright lights, and easy starting.
The first Land Rover was based on this chassis in 1947 from one of the jeeps you left here in the UK after the war :-D
Interesting
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer worth having a look into the story :)
They kept the size of that chassis, but used Rover car engine and gearbox in production. Construction is like any UK small lorry of the time, with plain folded sheet. Odd bit is large amount of aircraft aluminum and rivets in it (plenty of stock from 1945)
The Willis Jeep was designed by BSA in England and they demonstrated it to the American army
But they didn't buy it but produced one of there own a copy of it and put a bigger engine in it
I think it was a ford engine .It was a story in a Landrover magazine.
Just an FYI - the orange spray can that you removed when dunging out the Jeep was Kroil, simply the very best penetrating oil in the WORLD. Makes PB Blaster look like cat piss, lmao. HOPE YOU KEPT IT - if it still sprays you will be AMAZED at how good it is!!
yep....it was very rusted and not working properly...I used it all up though lol
Came back and rewatched this video because I'm restoring a 48 CJ2A and having slow starter issues. From what I'm learning, you need 0 to 00ga battery and starter cable to get the most power from the battery. All ground points have to have great clean contact including where the start motor bolts to the bracket and where the bracket bolts into the engine block and also where the start motor seats to the bell housing. The battery ground cable also has to have a clean contact, and there should be a flat ground strap from the block to the frame under the battery box. 6v systems rely on excellent grounds. In my opinion, if you're doing a stock restoration you'll want to stay with 6v instead of going to a 12v conversion. 12v will turn the starter faster, but if everything is in good working order you don't need 12v and you'll feel the pride in knowing you did it right instead of cheating and spending a lot more money with 12v for an alternator, lights, coil, starter, etc.. Cars, Jeeps, and tractors all ran just fine for many years up until the mid to late 50s on 6v systems. Also, your starter is supposed to have a cover that clamps on over the hole slots and that's why you had crud in there.
Love old Willys jeeps. I've had 2A's and 3As. First thing I would do is put in a 12v battery, Delco 1 wire alternator change some light bulbs and keep the patina. Loved driving on and off road.
I grew up on my grandpa's farm with a red '56 Willys Jeep with a hard top. I'm glued to these episodes of your '52, hoping it hear that old engine turn over!! I've been a Jeep lover all my life, and this makes me feel like a kid again!
add a 12 volt coil,put in a 12 volt battery..chuck the 6 volt!
And promptly burn out the gauges and lamps.
@@t5grrr DAAHH,you disconect the wire from the starter to the dash, just to start it..
@@t5grrr Only the fuel gauge is volt sensitive but you're assuming the lights will actually work when he pulls the switch 👍
There's a rheostat you can install to make the accessories work on 12 volts.
@@sportytone1 Ive used a 70s Dodge reostat on a 1950 ford truck to run the 6 volt heater,worked great!
If the fuel tank is roached there is a two-part epoxy specifically made for sealing them. You put it in, rotate the tank so that all wall surfaces are covered, let it dry, re-cut the holes if necessary and put it all back together.
Yay! Thank you for not getting rid of it
When looking for old jeep videos its best to just look for military jeep videos they show all the detail and are perfectionists lol
Please do a restore on the Willy’s jeep as it might bring some money back for you in the future and it would bring some new people to your channel thanks for the content
Hayden Croft he should do a restomod and it would make a good profit for the farm it could be done quick fast and cheap and look nice
Restoration is not required for these to be worth money. Some people actually want stuff that has patina - not some fancied up painted thing that isn’t worth any more $$!
@@JohnyTopaz, Hit that nail on the head !
@@JohnyTopaz Thanks for saying that, Original and used is a very strong selling point even to a restorer. I think they are both fabulous ways of saving things from a different era if done as close to whatever version of 'Original' you prefer.. Brand new, or used but fully functional to your purpose or desire.
The brushes are still use able but it never hurts to put in new ones while the unit is apart. The problem may lie in the rotor or stator windings.
For the spinny part, 'Commutator', use fine emery cloth to just polish it a bit.
If I had a piece of equipment that my dad had owned I would definitely restore it. He’s been gone for 30 years now and I still miss talking to him
Bought a 1950 for $500 off a farm 20yrs back. Wired it for 12V using a GM alternator. Restored the gas tank and A little fresh gas in that ole Weber carb and it started every time. Used it to get wood for years than sold it. Miss that thing went everywhere in 4 low.
Josh
Enjoy your channel. I owned a 47 Willys which I now regret selling it back in 1971. One thing to consider is what type of antifreeze to use my 1951 8N as well as the Willys like alcohol based. Just saying.
I would suggest you keep it a 6 volt system and as original as possible.
I look forward to see the project proceed.
Take care.
Great little project , I love pulling equipment out of the weeds and getting her to run!! Please don’t give up, get her to buck once again!!!
There are a lot of parts for that machine still available, the fuel sight bowl should have a filter inside just take that filter out and clean it with carb cleaner. Good luck 👍
The auto sparky will probably give you a bush to go into the bellhousing for the starter. this is how they get the old bush out. You lube the new bush as i described below. you hunt through your box of thread cutting taps. I'm guessing it will take a 7/16 tap. you wind the tap into the old bush which will be in a blind hole and as it bottoms out it will hopefully draw out the bush. clean out the hole. Then the shop will use a piece of shaft or long bolt or a piece of doweling that has been turned down or ground so it has a shoulder to fit into the new bush. You use this to drive it in. If you use a socket and extension be careful not to flare the end of the bush.
Bubbz and the TARDSQUAD was here 🤘🏻😎🤘🏻love the old Jeep stuff.
You need to pour a lil oil or oil mix in on top of the pistons and let it sit it’s usually first step for somthing that’s been sitting so long and also pull the plugs and turn the motor by hand for a min it should be easy because there is no compression on the plugs
An exciting project! Check your grounds especially from the battery to the frame/engine and engine to frame.
Hello; The engine in your Jeep is probably the 134 cu in flathead four. It is the same engine I had in my '48 Ford 8n tractor. I would have the generator rebuilt, too. Have fun!
To the best of my 70 years of knowledge gained working on farm tractor the Ford tractor used a Ford engine, when Ford merged with Ferguson there was a Ford Ferguson which used a Continental 134 engine which was a over head valve engine, while the Ford was a flat head, very similar to the old Model A car. Ford had the distributor down on the front of the engine for many years, then replaced it with a side mount distributor, also at front of engine in same area.
JB
What a great project. Depends on how much money you have, it deserves a full restoration just for the fact that you rode around your dad's farm when you were a kid. Good luck with your project what ever you decide. I like your channel very fun to watch.
That is a glass bowl fuel pump with filter built in, RockAuto still sells them so does NAPA. The easiest way that I have seen and used to clean out those old Willy's fuel tank is to put a gallon of kerosene in it along with a 1 1/2' - 2' of chain and then put the lid back on, close up the fuel lines and shake the crap out of it or seeing how you have a tractor handy strap the tank to the back wheel and drive around for a while and it will clean the crap out of the tank
Good idea!
@@StoneyRidgeFarmer I've heard of the same thing done with ball bearings.
Buy and use a baking soda blaster. You can get it at Harbor Freight for 9.99 and I used it extensively on my 1965 VW Bug restoration.. You would be amazed at how clean the engine small parts looked and actually looked better than new. It was great to clean electrical connections. I had a 6 volt system too. Get everything as clean as you can so that you can minimize any problems. I suggest you get a new gas tank too and fuel lines. Great videos.
Josh that is fuel bowl. There is no filter other than a screen. Contaminates settle at the bottom. Good luck fitting that screen back on. Check with Omix Ada. I have bought many of their products for my 47 Willys CJ2a
The glass filter is called a sight glass
Fluid flush and change (all fluids please) Can't wait to see it run again!
I saw you mentioned the putting the positive on the starter button where most 6 volt systems I've dealt with are positive ground so the negative battery cable would go to the starter button. Should check on that. Either way most pieces need to be rebuilt or replaced. We had a '47 for plowing the driveway. It sat for a while and I tried to start it, ended up taking the head off and pistons were totally rusted in place. I gave up after that. Thanks for sharing.
Also you need to do as Robert Hardwick suggested and switch to a 12 volt system, including all lights. That would include the instrument panel lights, not as big problem, just change the bulbs.
This thing is rough brotha...I agree an upgraded 12v system is a great idea
That fuel pump bowl is called a sediment bowl. Typical on British vehicles of the era as well! maybe that info will help with parts? I would suggest checking the diaphragm in the pump too. If it leaks it can allow fuel into the sump since it is operated by a lobe on the cam
Cool man...I ordered a new fuel pump ....we're gonna start a complete restoration as soon as we can get it to fire!
Nice working in the willie ..I will like to see that jeep running 👍puertorican hillbilly 🙏 old school nice
Unscrew the fuel pump and manually work the pump lever to see if it still draws in fuel. Other wise you might need to rebuild it with new diaphragm and check valves.
I would love to have me an older jeep like that, nice and reliable after some work
You can run that starter on 12 volt batt and it will work great ! Get a 12 volt coil and a single wire 12 volt delco alternator and Change bulbs and your set up for 12 volt
I love old jeeps up through the cj era.
This channel inspired me to start a TH-cam channel myself. Only then from our own work on the farm. Nice video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Super cool video!! Thanks for taking us along!!
Thanks Deb!
Fuel tank cleaning is a must. Crap in there will give years of trouble if not cleaned and resealed. There are products just for this purpose.
I can't wait to see it running! Keep up the good work. Waiting for more content.
Me too!!!! Waiting on the phone call from the rebuild shop!!
I love old cars and Jeep's
Awesome project I have 1962 CJ5 , Your CJ3A is good shape Love to see it restore to original shape, but, its yours. your project. 1st most important thing, go find a repair manual for your model of Jeep, it will have all the torque specs when you go back rebuilding it. Three things a engine must have to run, enough Compression in the cylinders, Fuel to the cylinders and Spark to the spark plug, without anyone of these, it won't run. Smart move on letting someone rebuild the starter, eliminate that problem, move to something else. I use to rebuild starters/Alternators for my Dad in his Auto repair shop high school, 40 years ago. You can plate off the mechanical fuel pump and install electric pump with 2 good quality clear inline fuel filter, one coming out of fuel tank before fuel pump, one after fuel pump before Carb. I would be surprised if the carburetor is not gunked up, the rebuild kits are available. I haven't seen anything other than WD40 in the cylinders, pour some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders, works every time. Good luck enjoying the Project, I have 4 International 1961/62 Scout 80s for another project in the future.
Thanks man!
Brushes look fine to me, the whole starter was just dirty and gummed up with old grease. That whole fuel system, tank, lines, pump, filter, carb needs to be removed and dooshed out seriously before even thinking about running.
Absolutely! Had the same problem in my ‘72 Datsun 510 - starter wouldn’t turn over the engine. For $0, I took it apart, lubed it all up and cleaned up the slots between the copper on the commutator, and it was good to go!
use a coat hanger with a bend on the end and hook it in the spring and pull gently.
I had the same problem with an old 8n Ford tractor and before I converted it to a 12 volt system, I put an 8 volt golf cart battery in it and it would spin the starter faster. You have to wire only the starter to it because it will blow the bulbs in the lights.
Fingers crossed you'll get her running again! That fuel filter was pretty nasty, but it should clean up good.
Hi.... Thank you 🎥👍👍👍
I rebuilt my starter in a parking lot once, long ago.. 1946 CJ2A.
I use to have an old jeep grand Cherokee. Starter was going on it. But I carried a hammer with me lol got through a winter that way before I had to replace it. Miss my "Cheap Jeep" yes that was her name and she loved it. Got her to almost 400,xxx km
✌💛
I pretty confident that it WILL start.
Normally you change the brushes by flipping the retaining springs back. No dismantling required :o)
the common thing to do on the L head 134 engine is to run a chevy alternator and an ''igniter'' electronic ignition swap(replaces the points in the distributor) and run a k and n air filter swap instead of the oil bath filter, there is also a weber 2 barrel carburetor u can get that bolts right on in place of the 1 barrel thats on it
if you find that the parts list is getting too much to find on the local shopping channels, switch to the Buick 225 V6 (1966-71) then u can get parts from most GM engines to keep life in that machine. it bolts right up to the flywheel and you have a ton more powah
I'd get it running then do a small project to it each month like brakes, lights, horns, then one big project a year, paint, interior, engine / trans overhaul.
Oh Buddy...keep following ....we're in process of a frame off restoration!
Every project you complete will fuel the next. Onward and upward!
Yes
Josh there is a company that makes a fuel tank restoration kit you may want to look for. I don't know if you want to buy a new tank but their kit works great for 4 wheelers.
Great job getting started working on the Jeep!
For your gas tank there is a product it's called Por 15 it comes in a kit for about $100.It will clean the rust out of your tank and put a like coat inside your tank . I used it on a 1947 John Deere G tank it worked like the youtube video said it would .
Thanks Randy!
Ah ! I see you favour the Irish hammer for knocking on the casing to loosen it. Over here in the UK, we just use it for its basic function.....As a screw driver. !
WD 40 isn't a penetrant PB blaster is
Jim Rockford007 just what I was thinking!!
No electric current need to replace the spark plugs and check the coil high tension wire
Keep on watching buddy......we got busy on a bunch of the ignition parts
Don't give up on the horns yet or any electrical. You mentioned 6v pos ground. From what I'm seeing your going -ground. Basically your chassis is hooked to pos post on battery which is your mesh wire to engine. Everything else is hooked to the NEGATIVE on the battery. So horn on fender and wire to pos on batt is actually shorting. It's confusing at first but it'll sink in eventually. I've got a 50 dodge same set up. Just remember everything is backwards to what you are used to
Hope you get the jeep running and working again
If you machine the armature makes sure you use virgin (carbon)brushes.
The ports where the brushes are should allow for inspection and removal/replacement without disassemble.
Use a spring hook tool or similar to raise the spring just enough to remove the brush then ease the brush spring down into it's well.
Black electrical tape is only evidence that the original factory didn't invest in anything better to insulate wire connections.
I have an apiary to.
Love the new grand national on the last video!!=) got an 87 monte ss that's my love .. awesome channel dude and thanks for sharing!!=)👍👍👍
Reading about the beginnings of the British SAS Military Unit. They used these jeeps, which they heavily modified (absolutely bristling with guns that were designed to be on planes and also inserted bulletproof windscreens from Hurricane fighters), in the North African Desert. Driving onto German/Italian airfields and shooting up and destroying aircraft.
When the SAS was formed (in 1941), they would've used the Willys MB or Ford GPW, which are the predecessors of all other military and civilian Jeeps.
Note: There were other "Jeep-type" vehicles used before the MB and GPW, but these were the "trial" vehicles. the MB and Ford GPW were the first mass-built models for the Allies military forces (41 to 45).
Note#2: The GPW part of the Ford model was what lead to, first, the nickname and then the official name Jeep.
Great video again.My dad had a 1945 dodge power wagon .
Awesome project. Can't wait for the next part
Coming soon! Tonight at 6:30pm...be sure and catch the live stream at 9pm too!
Josh don't try to fuel thru the lines until you have that tank cleaned or replaced that rust his a problem disconnect the fuel line put some gas in a jug to try starting the engine
I had to get a new pump for mine I didnt want to but it was cheaper than a rebuild kit. It works good the only problem was i had to sand down bowl because it was anything but flat and didnt seal at all. Also if you get a new tank get a poly one not steel these cheap new ones rust out in like a year. You should really clean out the bell housing if you can the mouse debris can easily cause clutch problems it happend on my cj5 though yours has a different type of clutch.
If the filter bowl looks that bad, imagine what the carb float bowl looks like lol
probably so
Old is gold buddy....keep going....
I'm pretty sure there should have been a metal band around where that opening by the brushes. Lots of water and crud can get in there. I'm sure whoever does your rebuild will put in bushings(the rear one looked very dry) or at least lube things up as well.
A little wrenchin’. Some tunes. Maybe a beer? Guy heaven 👍
The spaces between the commutator bars need to be undercut so that the brushes ride on the bars instead of on the insulators that need to be undercut.
My Dad would be interested in it.. full restore. Used to be MP in us Army
This man is so enthusiastic! . I KNOW he'll do a great job..!! Subscribed 2 vids ago.
Awesome to see you working on the jeep again. Also those bikes hanging up there are asking to be ridden again.
You should have the battery disconnected as you pull the starter.
Either that or wear huge rubber gauntlets.
great winter content, working on that jeep is very interesting thank you
Good job Josh can't wait for the next video thanks
Mines a 1948. Fun little rigs, but they need better brakes!
When you get the spark plugs out you need to put a little oil on top of the pistons but just starting the video
Do yourself and the farm a huge favor and buy a parts washer cabinet. Take things like that fuel filter assembly off and soak it.
Enjoyed the video. Thank you for your service 🇺🇸
Josh get that thing runnin and you can be in the 4TH of July Parade (after all you are a veteran) That would make a cool vlog That starter looked like it went thru the Normandy Invasion
That turning thing that you are referring to . Is called an armiture
Thanks man!