All I Can say is wow, wow. The best review on Shimano individual group sites on the web and you tube by far. This comprehensive comparison guide has been long overdue comparing all of the Cimato group sets to each other right on the table physically. Amazing review keep up the great work. This review this video will continue earning you many many views for years to come. Even when new groups that are released I believe this still will be a very helpful comprehensive all in one guide.Keep up the good work and keep these videos coming love your work thank you.
I have some Sora components. I have a bike fitted with Tiagra (though I added 105 brakes). I have two bikes on 105. I have a new bike with a mix of 105 R7000 and Ultegra. I even have a bike with Claris shifters mating up with old 105 (when it was 8 speed). The bottom line is this: It’s ALL good. Shimano makes nice stuff. It works well and is largely a good value.
Very good explanation video! I have a road bike given by a good friend of mine. It is 2015 Specialized Allez Sport. It comes with Sora 9-speed groupsets, but the rim brake caliper is Axis 1.0. I googled it and found that it is asymmetric brake caliper. The only thing I upgraded for the bike is the direct mount, 105 R7000 front and back dual-pivot rim brake calipers. Don't want to change anything else as it does not worth the money. If I want a better groupset, probably should upgrade the bike too. I'm recently getting into the road bike commuting for 20km from home to work. I think I will use this bike to train myself from an amateur to a semi-pro rider before I upgrade this road bike to something else. Love your video! Thanks a lot.
Best shimano group sets guide in youtube. Thx man, I finally have a clearer understanding of each GS. Now I can consider the GS choice for my first road bike
I find that even Tektro brand brake caliper with Ultegra/Dura-Ace cartridge type brake works really really well. The brake pad that makes the bigger difference. Also don't go super cheap on tires, big difference.
I'm still on my first road bike (Sora 3500). I've done two triathlons with it and honestly, I don't have an issue with it. My cassette is a 12-26 and the only difference between that and a 11 speed 11-28 is the added 11 in the front and 28 in the back. I live in a FLAT area and rarely shift away from the middle 15,17,19,21 cogs. However, I've been wanting to switch to 11s just to have the hidden cables, lighter, and power meter friendly. Other than that, there is nothing wrong with it as long as the bike is well maintained.
I have now bought a Merida Scultura 100 with Claris R2000, for € 500 ... incredible value. I don't need any fancy groupset and if I like Claris I will buy a second Claris for my Trek 5500 OCLV 120. I got the bike very cheap last year and the Dura Ace 7700 groupset is in very good condition, but the paint and stickers are damaged or missing ... it would take a lot of work to make a collector's bike ... instead I prefer to make it an uncomplicated racing machine. Combining a great frame with the cheapest road bike group would be typical me.
Can someone please make a split video of different Shimano gears switching gears? I've searched TH-cam for hours now to see a functional video of what really is the difference other than experts just "speaking words" but I couldn't find any. Dear SickBiker dude, can you be the prophet we need?
I think if I was going to get another road bike I’d go with Sora or maybe Tiagra. I was looking at 105 but you let me know I definitely don’t need it. Sora has really improved since I got it on my first road bike back in 2011. Back then, the cables came out of the side of the shifters, and there was a small thumb button to shift as well as the main lever. If money was no object I would get the electronic because of the shifting quality and other advantages, but not until it’s wireless. SRAM did it right and Shimano have to catch up.
According to Shimano's docs Ultegra uses bushings for the shifters, the lower ones don't, and then on Dura-Ace you get 4 bearings per shifter. So presumably a bit smoother. I guess the others are all the same, it's just a luxury tax to make it a bit more expensive. Also the Claris shifters come with steel (not stainless) cables. So worth an extra $5 maybe for the higher groupsets in terms of having nicer cables (but you could replace them). I guess Shimano will go to 9-speed on the next Claris (2021), so there is that.
When I bought my Trek Checkpoint Adventure Bike I had the choice between 105 and Tiagra - both with hydraulic disc brakes with a price difference of 400€. So, for 400 bucks less I get 2 gears less and have to deal with 240 grams more - I can really really live with that. I also heard that you could even use an 11-36 cassette with the latest Tiagra version (although it's not officially supported). With that you could build the ultimate climber. Btw, would be really cool if you could do a test with the 11-36 cassette on Tiagra and see if it really works flawlessly.
I have specialized awol 2016 with tiagra 4700 rd, change the cassete to shimano mountain 11-36 (forgot the series) and its working flawlessly, no adjustment at all luckly.
Thank you so much for this. I just got my first proper road bike, a Giant Contend 3, and I feel like a GOD on that bike compared to my previous, the GMC Denali. I keep thinking to myself “if the Claris feels like this then my how good could the more expensive stuff actually feel” and this made it a lot clearer what money gets you.
In terms of the R/D: the Claris & Sora use the same construction. But the Sora uses coated bushings. So maybe a bit smoother. The Tiagra has slightly different construction, it's similar to old 105. But probably not really any better performance than Sora. Maybe just a little lighter. The new 105 R7000 uses 'Shadow' low-profile R/D, and you also now get nicer jockey wheels. So it's a nice upgrade. I wouldn't buy the old 105 R/D as it's not really any different to Tiagra. 105 is close to Ultegra now, but the Ultegra uses a couple of extra lubed bushings. I guess not such a big difference.
I work in food delivery and have come across at least 3 fellow workers who have ripped apart their tourney mechs. I tell them if you are going to do food delivery on a bike, you need good components
thanks for this detailed video. im riding an entry level Bianchi Via nirone 7 with the Claris group set.. Im a heavy weight rider, and happy to say that i've lost a lot of kg's just by riding alone.. Its not the lightest of bikes, but it really trained my body to be efficient with it. Do you recommend i upgrade the groupset when i reach a more lighter weight? cheers
Just a couple of issues on the Claris R2000 crankset commentary: 1. Octalink BB = Hollowtech. Octalink/Hollowtech should now be dying, as Shimano streamlines between square taper on cheapest cranks & Hollowtech II. 2. Hollowtech 2 BB is completely incompatible with Hollowtech 1/Octalink. 3. R2000 crankset uses Hollowtech 2 BB, but Shimano don't refer to the crankset as 'Hollowtech 2' because it has solid crank arms. However it's otherwise the same. You have therefore two kinds of Shimano crankset using Hollowtech 2 - the solid crank arms, Shimano calls this just 'two-piece crankset' in their specs, and the hollow crank arms, which Shimano calls 'Hollowtech II' in their specs. And both types use the same Hollowtech II BBs. (edit: ok, you clarify this at the end a little).
It's spring 2022, and if you're buying a complete bike under $1000, shoot for Claris, possibly Sora. A brand new sub-$1000 bike with Tiagra or higher has cut corners everywhere else. If you're at the skill and fitness level that compels you to buy a frameset to build up, 105 should be your starting point.
Hi, I got some questions. For weight it can be understandable on the difference on the different group set. Definitely lighter will be better. From the video, on different number of the speed, more speed is easier to maintain the cadence. However I saw some gear set where the gear range is very close, meaning need to change gear very fast. And by right if smaller gear range, we don't need so many speed? Also if the number of speed is more important or the gear range is more important? E.g front 34/50 rear. Compare rear Claris 11x34 vs 105 11x28 which is better? (Questions because I saw bike with these setup where I think Claris cover more range for most situation. In this case, 11x34 easier to handle very steep hill than the 11x28 but the bike don't look pro because is Claris and not 105 and up)
Hello there :) I have an entry-level silverback Strela sport road bike with an 8spd Shimano Claris groupset. It has an aluminium frame with a carbon fork and 700c double wall deep section alloy wheels. My question is should I upgrade my bike? If yes, where should I start? If not, please feel free to give your valuable advice Thank you so much for the great content :) Happy cycling........
I have never really looked at anything below 105 because just a few years ago Tiagra and Sora work very poorly and look like crap. These newer components, even down to the Claris, look very nice and well finished. I guess so many new Chinese and Taiwanese component makers come out with their own shifters and group sets that Shimano has to sharpen their game if they want to keep loyal customers who may start out with less expensive components.
The only reason why i would go with 105/ultegra would be the smaller steps. i can be quite picky about my cadence when going at FTP wattages. Also, there are so many 11 speed parts to choose from since it was standard for quite some time. Currently i own a 400€ roadbike with the older Sora group that has the shifting cable coming out of the front shifter part. Never had any issues with the gears and still have the same cassette and 2nd chain(ran 5000km on the bike). Still ride faster than 90% of the roadies in my area. Average of 31km/h(on my own) for more than 2 hours possible with a FTP of 256Watts. So i question why so many weak riders have a full dura ace Di2 on a trek madone 9 or something similarly racy and not put out any worthmentioning power
My man/woman. I also have a singlespeed. though a rigid 29er MTB with 34x14. Looks really weird whenevery i take over some roadies with nobby tires and a cadence of roughly 100rpm XD
I got a newbie question. I don't race but I live in a really hilly/mountainous location. Should I go with double or triple crankset? Thanks SickBiker, this is the best road groupset review!
If you have a location like mine where rides are only 50 to 60 km but with 1500m inclination then...... double on compact crank will be ok. I have 50/34 crankset with 11/28 cassette. 23% hils are not easy but achievable. I have 10-speed newest tiagra 4700 and I have to say that it works better than old 5600, 105 group
Triple is a really nice since you will always have the gears for any hill. If you want to gain strength, it's much better to have more gears and never need to get off the bike.
you can go with either double or triple. both works fine. if you're going with a double though, and you're worrying, you can always get a 32 or 34 tooth on the back.
Nice video, however you should include the component codes, as the groupset names doesn't mean much unless you know WHICH version you have, as there are upgrades from version to version.
3 years later and Sora haven't update anything. Desperately need 9s shimano brifter, yet I believe the update should come in near future. Keeping my self from buying a 6 year old stuff.
Expect Sora will be 10 speed next year and Claris goes to 9 speed. I’d buy R3000 now if I were you, it’s just the same unless you want to move up speeds.
@@johnhw0 I understand the strategy of upgrading the lower model with previous model. I'd happily buy claris then. I'll stick to 9s. I use mtb RD (alivio right now) since I can have an option to use bigger cog, and shadow tech. My bike is gravel, so sometimes I swith up. 10s have different compatibility and I don't like the idea of buying a whole new group set for my "secondary bike".
Thank you, very informative guide...i do have a question though.....where i live MTBikes are extremely popular (mostly due to the fact that the roads are garbage, and there are a lot of chinese, or low-end MTBikes available for very cheap.....) so, my question is what groupset would you recommend for getting around the city, keeping in mind that, there are a lot of pot holes
Can I find out somewhere how much km shimano drivetrains proposes to go until completely worn out? (chains, cassetes and chainrings). I have bought quarq for 6800 shimano series and plan to make a chainring reserve while 6800 series in sale.
Drivetrains can go for a very long time, provided you maintain them and replace your chain when needed. A worn chain will prematurely wear out your chainrings and cassette. 10 and 11 speed systems have a recommended interval of every 2500 miles, which is optimistic in many cases. I've been replacing mine at 2,000 miles due to racing and a lot of hard training. The wear is already noticeable by then. 9 speed seems to be the sweet spot for durability. After 9 speed, chain life dropped considerably on Shimano groups likely due to thinner chains. I used to change my chain ever 7,500-8,000 miles when I used 9 speed. no issues with drivetrain wear, ever, with 9 speed or earlier groups.
Some advice I've heard is change the chain every 3000km's and the cassette every 3rd time you change the chain so 9000km's. If you wait to change the chain til you've ridden 5000km's, you will have to change cassette too, at least on 105. Front chainrings I don't know anything about.
I know for a different opinion about chain and cassette but my last chain was 30k km at least. After that, it was a little bit longer (0,75 on calliper). My current 2 chains have 10k and 5k km. No need to change it. Original cassette 12-25, 15 years old, 35k km and same chainset (Tiagra) are still working without any problem. If you lube it properly and avoid cross chaining it will last very long. There are two things I do not recommend about Shimano. Chain and pulleys. You can run it very long but they are loud. For one bike I have Sram Red22 chain and some China pulleys (105 5800 groupset). Looking better and it is silent. I still have original chain for that but it stays in the spare box. The second bike has Conex chain and some Tacx pulleys (Tiagra 4400 9 speed). Tiagra 4400, 9 speed chainset works perfectly on 105 5800 groupset.
Rak Rakovica i used 601 chain on gravel bike. Assphalt conditions in general but 2000 km and 0.75 on wear indicator :( sad expirience. Changed chain on new. We'll see.
I think that 1x and compact chainrings are killers of the chain. You are always in cross-chaining. 52 theet in the front gives me good speed in the middle of the cassette. No need to use 11 theet in the back. In that case, the chain is really horribly bent. Especially on the 11-speed system. Now, I can feel how wrong it is on my mtb 36x11. It gives me some vibration on the drivetrain. It is not just a funny feeling. It is power loss and that kills my chain, chainring and pulleys. On the top of that, I have some horrible habit to change gear with 500+ W on cranks. And I do it every day for a few times a day. I know. That will kill some of my gear but nothing happens in the last 30 years. My drivetrain lasts forever. It is better to stay in the middle of the cassette even if you never use 11 theet and go 55 km/h on the flat. I'm not that fast. Not even close to that. But I no need to change chain or cassette so I have money for stupid things. Like carbon seatpost and handlebars.
Is it safe to say the number 1 difference between each of these is the climbing gear? I just went up hill with the Sora and had to walk my bike up part of the hill, like I am on a BMX lol. Also out of shape, but still!
Very informative. I have just built my road bike with Tiagra 4700 because that's the groupset I could easily afford. I have noticed after the build that the left hand shifter (front derailleur) is not clicking from the small chain ring to the big one. After some research on the Web I saw that it not something new, some people have had the same issue. Have you had the same issue?
di2 has more benefits that you may not know - autotrim / syncro or semi syncro shifting / speed of shifting / shift cable wear nightmare (no) / crash saver / ....
Some Dura-Ace 9000 parts are not obsolete, it should be mentioned: 54-42 is for FC-9000 only afaik, and the 9000 rear derailleur can do with 11-23 cassettes for flatlanders and triathletes. Further, from Ultegra 6800 and 8000 to Dura-Ace 9000 and 9100 you get even easier shifting play. Doesn't matter much, because Ultegra is easy enough, but it's fun nonetheless. By the way, if you want a flat bar and 11s, you can buy the Metrea U5000 shifters. ;-)
If I have a 2005 shimano 105 groupset with 10 speeds, can I upgrade it to the newest tigara? Because it also has 10 speeds. But then, I have 3 rings crank. Can I switch it to 2 rings?
In my world there are only 2 groupset. Sora or 105. would go long derailer with a 12-25 and a 11-32 or 11-34 casette. in front 34-50. great video :) oh then a 11-25 in the back hehe. why different from other groups?? but would love a 11-25 for my 105 group.
Can I use the Shimano Deore FD-M6000-D, SIDE SWING Front Derailleur (3x10-speed) with corrosponding shifter on the Tiagra FC-4703, 50-39-30T Crankset (3x10-speed) OR! Would it even be possible fit the XT version of front derailleur and corresponding XT Shifters??? I intend to fit to a Giant Fathom 2. Many Thanks in advance and Kind Regards ;)
Hello Im planning to build my first gravel bike but i don't know if rim brake would fit in my tires? ●What rim size will you recommend me to get if ita for gravel bike? ●if the rime brakes don't fit what should brake should i buy? Please help newbie here
I want to get 105 but cant afford it and ride a tt bike. Ive seen the latest 10 speed ultegra( though its a few years old), but im wondering if i should just go to tiagra. Any advice? Thanks
If that old 10sp ultegra is still in good shape, then i'd prefer that old ultegra to the newer tiagra. Just my opinion. Oh and the price should be lower or at most equal to the newer tiagra.
Budget buyers should just have Sora. For mechanical groupsets, pro's should get Dura Ace while amateurs get 105 (and upgrade from there if required). And for electronic groupsets, pro's should get Dura Ace Di2 while amateurs get Ultegra Di2. All this separation of groupsets is making bikes unaffordable. Bike manufacturers (Trek/Cervelo/Specialized/Giant etc) will try to sell you a Dura Ace Di2 version, retailing for around $10,000+ (dollars), and save that groupset only for such bikes. Same for Ultegra Di2 bikes going at around a $6,000 price point. What people should do as amateurs is buy the 105 bikes (on those 50% year old model sales!), and do after market upgrades from there to their desired groupset. And marketing departments be damned! 😁😉
I've been using sora for atleast 4 months and I crashed 2 times when sprinting with sora hitting the ground for countless of times it still work smoothly for me, we all know its not the best but it still perform pretty well...
Do you know if SunRace cassettes are compatible with other brands as a replacement? ie: SunRace 10spd 11t-40t MS2 cassette can be replaced with ??. Looking for tensile steel for stronger torque measurements. Thanks! Great videos indeed.
Reymon Reyes si es posible solo necesitas uno o dos separadores para rellenar el espacio que sobra porque el cassette de 9 es un poco mas pequeño . Colocas el separador luego instalas el cassette de forma normal
Could the Claris R2000 8-speed drive train be combined with a Tiagra 4700 crank? I want a nice crank with 52/63 chainrings, because I am only after speed for as little as possible. The standard FSA Tempo crank is not that great.
@@sabognapawis General rule of thumb, you can go 1 speed up or down when mixing geargroups. For example, using a Claris crank and a Sora rear derailieur. Some have also tried to surpass it by using a 10 speed chain with 9 and 11 speed mechanics. So you'll be able to use a 10 speed crank with a Claris groupset, if you use a 9 speed chain. The reason for that is the width of the chain, and how it changes when the amount of sprockets changes too. I myself are using a 10 speed Tiagra crank with 9 speed Sora and it works just fine.
I have the "deore xt" groupset . I know its classified as a mountain groupset . Does it hurt my specialized road bike that I have it installed on ? Thank you for informative video .
I'm running a 2014 Tiagra group set and I'm really not happy about it. It just doesn't seem to function as well as my way older XT stuff with more maintenance. Would a new Tiagra or 105 be worth the money and hassle? Are there differences in durability/maintenance?
Late reply, but 4700 is not compatible with any other 10 speed kit. All other 10 speed work together (inc mtb cassettes) except that one. Would personally go for 105, as all 11 speed work together, so later on you could get used current gen ultegra or duraace.
Yes, you can. (Assuming everything else is 2× Tiagra, too.) Go for the FD-5801 (FD-5800 works too) these days. I've done that upgrade on a bike of mine.
@@austinslate9157 The FD for 2× are a less problematic part, and many unofficial combinations work. Tiagra 2000 shifter will work without issues. Same pull ratio as 5800 and up. By the way, the CX70 FD will do too, if you need a top-pull one or more tyre clearance.
@@austinslate9157 Hehe, you're welcome. I've upgraded all my old bikes the last two weeks, thanks to clearance sales and bad weather. Just remember, you'll need a 10s chain and rings (MTB will do too for 1×) and cassette. STI-2000 work with RD-7000 for 2×10s and allow quite large cassettes (tried 34T). Cheap crankset: RS500, 50€ if you shop around. 46-36 best with FD-CX70.
Genuine unbiased advice that doesn't try to upsell you on things you don't need. We need more of that in cycling.
What I like about this guy is there is no bulshit and bias. Just gives solid advice to amateurs like me.
THIS helped me a LOT. I was allways told: dont buy a bike under 105 Groupset. I thought: "what the hell. That money for a hobby?" Thanks mate!
All I Can say is wow, wow. The best review on Shimano individual group sites on the web and you tube by far. This comprehensive comparison guide has been long overdue comparing all of the Cimato group sets to each other right on the table physically. Amazing review keep up the great work. This review this video will continue earning you many many views for years to come. Even when new groups that are released I believe this still will be a very helpful comprehensive all in one guide.Keep up the good work and keep these videos coming love your work thank you.
I went from claris to Ultegra and oh yeah. The difference is massive. Its much smoother, lighter and it feels good to have them extra gears.
Cant have a better explanation on gear hierarchy...
Was a bit confused between Claris & Sora...
Now am quite clear and going for Claris..
Thanks.
Buying my first new bike. And this is the assurance I needed
Even though I'm a MTB rider I still find this useful. Thanks for the presentation!
I have some Sora components. I have a bike fitted with Tiagra (though I added 105 brakes). I have two bikes on 105. I have a new bike with a mix of 105 R7000 and Ultegra. I even have a bike with Claris shifters mating up with old 105 (when it was 8 speed).
The bottom line is this: It’s ALL good. Shimano makes nice stuff. It works well and is largely a good value.
Riding CAADX Tiagra 2018. After 6K km tiagra works fine. Really don't regret that i did't buy CAADX 105.
Very good explanation video! I have a road bike given by a good friend of mine. It is 2015 Specialized Allez Sport. It comes with Sora 9-speed groupsets, but the rim brake caliper is Axis 1.0. I googled it and found that it is asymmetric brake caliper. The only thing I upgraded for the bike is the direct mount, 105 R7000 front and back dual-pivot rim brake calipers. Don't want to change anything else as it does not worth the money. If I want a better groupset, probably should upgrade the bike too. I'm recently getting into the road bike commuting for 20km from home to work. I think I will use this bike to train myself from an amateur to a semi-pro rider before I upgrade this road bike to something else. Love your video! Thanks a lot.
Best shimano group sets guide in youtube. Thx man, I finally have a clearer understanding of each GS. Now I can consider the GS choice for my first road bike
I find that even Tektro brand brake caliper with Ultegra/Dura-Ace cartridge type brake works really really well. The brake pad that makes the bigger difference.
Also don't go super cheap on tires, big difference.
Can I mix Ultegra 8000 brakes with Claris 2000 brake levers?
I successfully paired Claris 2000 brake levers with Ultegra 8000 brake calipers on my Cannondale. Thanks!
@@mykeryu thanks for this, im about to do the exact same thing
I'm still on my first road bike (Sora 3500). I've done two triathlons with it and honestly, I don't have an issue with it. My cassette is a 12-26 and the only difference between that and a 11 speed 11-28 is the added 11 in the front and 28 in the back. I live in a FLAT area and rarely shift away from the middle 15,17,19,21 cogs. However, I've been wanting to switch to 11s just to have the hidden cables, lighter, and power meter friendly. Other than that, there is nothing wrong with it as long as the bike is well maintained.
I have now bought a Merida Scultura 100 with Claris R2000, for € 500 ... incredible value. I don't need any fancy groupset and if I like Claris I will buy a second Claris for my Trek 5500 OCLV 120.
I got the bike very cheap last year and the Dura Ace 7700 groupset is in very good condition, but the paint and stickers are damaged or missing ... it would take a lot of work to make a collector's bike ... instead I prefer to make it an uncomplicated racing machine. Combining a great frame with the cheapest road bike group would be typical me.
Can someone please make a split video of different Shimano gears switching gears? I've searched TH-cam for hours now to see a functional video of what really is the difference other than experts just "speaking words" but I couldn't find any. Dear SickBiker dude, can you be the prophet we need?
I think if I was going to get another road bike I’d go with Sora or maybe Tiagra. I was looking at 105 but you let me know I definitely don’t need it. Sora has really improved since I got it on my first road bike back in 2011. Back then, the cables came out of the side of the shifters, and there was a small thumb button to shift as well as the main lever.
If money was no object I would get the electronic because of the shifting quality and other advantages, but not until it’s wireless. SRAM did it right and Shimano have to catch up.
Great video! You never fail to give us good info and sound advice.
According to Shimano's docs Ultegra uses bushings for the shifters, the lower ones don't, and then on Dura-Ace you get 4 bearings per shifter. So presumably a bit smoother. I guess the others are all the same, it's just a luxury tax to make it a bit more expensive.
Also the Claris shifters come with steel (not stainless) cables. So worth an extra $5 maybe for the higher groupsets in terms of having nicer cables (but you could replace them).
I guess Shimano will go to 9-speed on the next Claris (2021), so there is that.
When I bought my Trek Checkpoint Adventure Bike I had the choice between 105 and Tiagra - both with hydraulic disc brakes with a price difference of 400€. So, for 400 bucks less I get 2 gears less and have to deal with 240 grams more - I can really really live with that. I also heard that you could even use an 11-36 cassette with the latest Tiagra version (although it's not officially supported). With that you could build the ultimate climber. Btw, would be really cool if you could do a test with the 11-36 cassette on Tiagra and see if it really works flawlessly.
I have specialized awol 2016 with tiagra 4700 rd, change the cassete to shimano mountain 11-36 (forgot the series) and its working flawlessly, no adjustment at all luckly.
Thank you so much for this. I just got my first proper road bike, a Giant Contend 3, and I feel like a GOD on that bike compared to my previous, the GMC Denali. I keep thinking to myself “if the Claris feels like this then my how good could the more expensive stuff actually feel” and this made it a lot clearer what money gets you.
BasedGod Strugglin' that’s awesome, I ride a giant contend 1 with shamino Sora.
I have a sora r3000 groupset in 11-32 ans it work perfectly
Nothing wrong with Claris really. The R2000 version is updated & smooth to use actually. Not sure why some just balk at it...
In terms of the R/D:
the Claris & Sora use the same construction. But the Sora uses coated bushings. So maybe a bit smoother.
The Tiagra has slightly different construction, it's similar to old 105. But probably not really any better performance than Sora. Maybe just a little lighter.
The new 105 R7000 uses 'Shadow' low-profile R/D, and you also now get nicer jockey wheels. So it's a nice upgrade. I wouldn't buy the old 105 R/D as it's not really any different to Tiagra. 105 is close to Ultegra now, but the Ultegra uses a couple of extra lubed bushings. I guess not such a big difference.
I work in food delivery and have come across at least 3 fellow workers who have ripped apart their tourney mechs. I tell them if you are going to do food delivery on a bike, you need good components
thanks for this detailed video. im riding an entry level Bianchi Via nirone 7 with the Claris group set.. Im a heavy weight rider, and happy to say that i've lost a lot of kg's just by riding alone.. Its not the lightest of bikes, but it really trained my body to be efficient with it. Do you recommend i upgrade the groupset when i reach a more lighter weight? cheers
I needed this so bad
Just a couple of issues on the Claris R2000 crankset commentary:
1. Octalink BB = Hollowtech. Octalink/Hollowtech should now be dying, as Shimano streamlines between square taper on cheapest cranks & Hollowtech II.
2. Hollowtech 2 BB is completely incompatible with Hollowtech 1/Octalink.
3. R2000 crankset uses Hollowtech 2 BB, but Shimano don't refer to the crankset as 'Hollowtech 2' because it has solid crank arms. However it's otherwise the same.
You have therefore two kinds of Shimano crankset using Hollowtech 2 - the solid crank arms, Shimano calls this just 'two-piece crankset' in their specs, and the hollow crank arms, which Shimano calls 'Hollowtech II' in their specs. And both types use the same Hollowtech II BBs.
(edit: ok, you clarify this at the end a little).
Good video can u do a video on compatibility between the group sets?
It's spring 2022, and if you're buying a complete bike under $1000, shoot for Claris, possibly Sora. A brand new sub-$1000 bike with Tiagra or higher has cut corners everywhere else. If you're at the skill and fitness level that compels you to buy a frameset to build up, 105 should be your starting point.
Is the Triban RC 500 with Sora a good bike?
I remember when i got a year old bike with 105 discs for 950€
great job = Make it easy to follow, long time rider, and sure make it easy to tell the difference. Thanks
Hi, I got some questions.
For weight it can be understandable on the difference on the different group set. Definitely lighter will be better.
From the video, on different number of the speed, more speed is easier to maintain the cadence. However I saw some gear set where the gear range is very close, meaning need to change gear very fast. And by right if smaller gear range, we don't need so many speed?
Also if the number of speed is more important or the gear range is more important? E.g front 34/50 rear. Compare rear Claris 11x34 vs 105 11x28 which is better? (Questions because I saw bike with these setup where I think Claris cover more range for most situation. In this case, 11x34 easier to handle very steep hill than the 11x28 but the bike don't look pro because is Claris and not 105 and up)
Hello there :)
I have an entry-level silverback Strela sport road bike with an 8spd Shimano Claris groupset. It has an aluminium frame with a carbon fork and 700c double wall deep section alloy wheels.
My question is should I upgrade my bike? If yes, where should I start? If not, please feel free to give your valuable advice
Thank you so much for the great content :)
Happy cycling........
Buy claris with 105 brake clamps
Thanks for the tip bro!
All of em is good it just depends on the budget
I have a microshift 8*3 how does it compare to a claris(8*2)?
Also because of having 3 in the front does the weight change mean much?
I built a hybrid with all Claris components. Your right I ride 3x8 and it works fine up hills.
Thank you for all that info -its an eye opener , bravo to you Sir.
I have never really looked at anything below 105 because just a few years ago Tiagra and Sora work very poorly and look like crap. These newer components, even down to the Claris, look very nice and well finished. I guess so many new Chinese and Taiwanese component makers come out with their own shifters and group sets that Shimano has to sharpen their game if they want to keep loyal customers who may start out with less expensive components.
Pls make also a video groupset for mountain bike for sports, especially the big teeth chainring..
The only reason why i would go with 105/ultegra would be the smaller steps. i can be quite picky about my cadence when going at FTP wattages. Also, there are so many 11 speed parts to choose from since it was standard for quite some time.
Currently i own a 400€ roadbike with the older Sora group that has the shifting cable coming out of the front shifter part. Never had any issues with the gears and still have the same cassette and 2nd chain(ran 5000km on the bike). Still ride faster than 90% of the roadies in my area. Average of 31km/h(on my own) for more than 2 hours possible with a FTP of 256Watts. So i question why so many weak riders have a full dura ace Di2 on a trek madone 9 or something similarly racy and not put out any worthmentioning power
for the bling! I pass alot of those same full kit spandexers on my single speed 42x11 constantly around here and laugh.
My man/woman. I also have a singlespeed. though a rigid 29er MTB with 34x14. Looks really weird whenevery i take over some roadies with nobby tires and a cadence of roughly 100rpm XD
I got a newbie question. I don't race but I live in a really hilly/mountainous location. Should I go with double or triple crankset? Thanks SickBiker, this is the best road groupset review!
If you have a location like mine where rides are only 50 to 60 km but with 1500m inclination then...... double on compact crank will be ok. I have 50/34 crankset with 11/28 cassette. 23% hils are not easy but achievable. I have 10-speed newest tiagra 4700 and I have to say that it works better than old 5600, 105 group
Triple is a really nice since you will always have the gears for any hill. If you want to gain strength, it's much better to have more gears and never need to get off the bike.
you can go with either double or triple. both works fine. if you're going with a double though, and you're worrying, you can always get a 32 or 34 tooth on the back.
Nice video, however you should include the component codes, as the groupset names doesn't mean much unless you know WHICH version you have, as there are upgrades from version to version.
Great video ! Really puts things into perspective.
Sora has a point in being compatible with mtb rear derailleurs. Pretty important for touring.
Can u make an updated video for MTB as I think there are more gears that have come into the market
3 years later and Sora haven't update anything. Desperately need 9s shimano brifter, yet I believe the update should come in near future. Keeping my self from buying a 6 year old stuff.
Expect Sora will be 10 speed next year and Claris goes to 9 speed.
I’d buy R3000 now if I were you, it’s just the same unless you want to move up speeds.
@@johnhw0 I understand the strategy of upgrading the lower model with previous model. I'd happily buy claris then. I'll stick to 9s. I use mtb RD (alivio right now) since I can have an option to use bigger cog, and shadow tech. My bike is gravel, so sometimes I swith up. 10s have different compatibility and I don't like the idea of buying a whole new group set for my "secondary bike".
Thank you, very informative guide...i do have a question though.....where i live MTBikes are extremely popular (mostly due to the fact that the roads are garbage, and there are a lot of chinese, or low-end MTBikes available for very cheap.....) so, my question is what groupset would you recommend for getting around the city, keeping in mind that, there are a lot of pot holes
Can I find out somewhere how much km shimano drivetrains proposes to go until completely worn out? (chains, cassetes and chainrings). I have bought quarq for 6800 shimano series and plan to make a chainring reserve while 6800 series in sale.
Drivetrains can go for a very long time, provided you maintain them and replace your chain when needed. A worn chain will prematurely wear out your chainrings and cassette. 10 and 11 speed systems have a recommended interval of every 2500 miles, which is optimistic in many cases. I've been replacing mine at 2,000 miles due to racing and a lot of hard training. The wear is already noticeable by then. 9 speed seems to be the sweet spot for durability. After 9 speed, chain life dropped considerably on Shimano groups likely due to thinner chains. I used to change my chain ever 7,500-8,000 miles when I used 9 speed. no issues with drivetrain wear, ever, with 9 speed or earlier groups.
Some advice I've heard is change the chain every 3000km's and the cassette every 3rd time you change the chain so 9000km's. If you wait to change the chain til you've ridden 5000km's, you will have to change cassette too, at least on 105.
Front chainrings I don't know anything about.
I know for a different opinion about chain and cassette but my last chain was 30k km at least. After that, it was a little bit longer (0,75 on calliper). My current 2 chains have 10k and 5k km. No need to change it.
Original cassette 12-25, 15 years old, 35k km and same chainset (Tiagra) are still working without any problem.
If you lube it properly and avoid cross chaining it will last very long.
There are two things I do not recommend about Shimano. Chain and pulleys. You can run it very long but they are loud. For one bike I have Sram Red22 chain and some China pulleys (105 5800 groupset). Looking better and it is silent. I still have original chain for that but it stays in the spare box. The second bike has Conex chain and some Tacx pulleys (Tiagra 4400 9 speed).
Tiagra 4400, 9 speed chainset works perfectly on 105 5800 groupset.
Rak Rakovica i used 601 chain on gravel bike. Assphalt conditions in general but 2000 km and 0.75 on wear indicator :( sad expirience. Changed chain on new. We'll see.
I think that 1x and compact chainrings are killers of the chain. You are always in cross-chaining. 52 theet in the front gives me good speed in the middle of the cassette. No need to use 11 theet in the back. In that case, the chain is really horribly bent. Especially on the 11-speed system.
Now, I can feel how wrong it is on my mtb 36x11. It gives me some vibration on the drivetrain. It is not just a funny feeling. It is power loss and that kills my chain, chainring and pulleys.
On the top of that, I have some horrible habit to change gear with 500+ W on cranks. And I do it every day for a few times a day. I know. That will kill some of my gear but nothing happens in the last 30 years. My drivetrain lasts forever.
It is better to stay in the middle of the cassette even if you never use 11 theet and go 55 km/h on the flat. I'm not that fast. Not even close to that. But I no need to change chain or cassette so I have money for stupid things. Like carbon seatpost and handlebars.
My third time watching this one. Great video.
Is it safe to say the number 1 difference between each of these is the climbing gear? I just went up hill with the Sora and had to walk my bike up part of the hill, like I am on a BMX lol. Also out of shape, but still!
Are the durallieurs interchangeable, speed for speed? Can I replace a 10 year old 9 speed 105 with a current 9 speed Sora?
I want to do your job man.
God bless bikes.
i am building a 3 fold bicycle. can give me an advice. I wanted to get a sora. will it be a problem?
Can you make a SRAM version of this? This is very useful
If you AINT racing, don’t worry about it
How about a big cassette 40 42 or more with a wolf tooth road link any group set with that would work
Very informative. I have just built my road bike with Tiagra 4700 because that's the groupset I could easily afford. I have noticed after the build that the left hand shifter (front derailleur) is not clicking from the small chain ring to the big one. After some research on the Web I saw that it not something new, some people have had the same issue.
Have you had the same issue?
Not working?
hmm if i have a Koga miyata with threads on the bottom bracket socket, can i still replace with crankset that has tube incorporated on the right side?
di2 has more benefits that you may not know - autotrim / syncro or semi syncro shifting / speed of shifting / shift cable wear nightmare (no) / crash saver / ....
105 or tiagra?.. tiagra or sora? idk what to put on my project canyon aeroad just for a long riding and some crit racing also
Super filmik, rewela, czekałem na to! Kiedy możemy spodziewać się przeglądu grup Campagnolo?
whats your opiion on scott speedster s40 and a felt z85??
This for sure has helped me in deciding if I should upgrade parts on my bikes direct( Gravity CXD) Bike. Im leaning toward Sora or Tiagra for sure.
Nice breakdown, my Giant defy 3 has a sora setup Wich seems fine, but, I'm going to make the jump to 105's✌🏼
PLEASE do the same with sram
is it worth to upgrade from claris to sora?
Its better to upgrade 2-3 levels up
To 105
Go straight for 105.
Nope
Great stuff Danny, as always!
@SickBiker I love Shimano Claris groupset but i dont know where to buy them, any link or shop?
Some Dura-Ace 9000 parts are not obsolete, it should be mentioned: 54-42 is for FC-9000 only afaik, and the 9000 rear derailleur can do with 11-23 cassettes for flatlanders and triathletes. Further, from Ultegra 6800 and 8000 to Dura-Ace 9000 and 9100 you get even easier shifting play. Doesn't matter much, because Ultegra is easy enough, but it's fun nonetheless.
By the way, if you want a flat bar and 11s, you can buy the Metrea U5000 shifters. ;-)
SILVER
SL-RS700
BLACK
SL-RS700
SL-RS700
RAPIDFIRE PLUS Shift Lever (2x11-speed) this is the Shimano 105 for flat bar bikes.
If I have a 2005 shimano 105 groupset with 10 speeds, can I upgrade it to the newest tigara? Because it also has 10 speeds. But then, I have 3 rings crank. Can I switch it to 2 rings?
In my world there are only 2 groupset. Sora or 105. would go long derailer with a 12-25 and a 11-32 or 11-34 casette. in front 34-50. great video :) oh then a 11-25 in the back hehe. why different from other groups?? but would love a 11-25 for my 105 group.
Still cant decide planning to convert my Giant Talon 3 to RB still dont know what group set to choose I prefer budget group set for beginner
Can I use the Shimano Deore FD-M6000-D, SIDE SWING Front Derailleur (3x10-speed) with corrosponding shifter on the Tiagra FC-4703, 50-39-30T Crankset (3x10-speed) OR! Would it even be possible fit the XT version of front derailleur and corresponding XT Shifters???
I intend to fit to a Giant Fathom 2.
Many Thanks in advance and Kind Regards ;)
Thanks for the info and sharing the video.
Nice video, Question: Can be used the Claris rear derailed into a Mountain bike?
Great video! Do you think Sora rear derailleur (long cage) could fit a 36T cassette?
Francesco Paggin ya a long cage will pit every size cassette
Hello Im planning to build my first gravel bike but i don't know if rim brake would fit in my tires?
●What rim size will you recommend me to get if ita for gravel bike?
●if the rime brakes don't fit what should brake should i buy?
Please help newbie here
maybe you can use discbrakes for gravel bikes
how did it go? managed a good build?
Very good explanation
I want to get 105 but cant afford it and ride a tt bike. Ive seen the latest 10 speed ultegra( though its a few years old), but im wondering if i should just go to tiagra. Any advice? Thanks
If that old 10sp ultegra is still in good shape, then i'd prefer that old ultegra to the newer tiagra. Just my opinion. Oh and the price should be lower or at most equal to the newer tiagra.
I have an older Ultegra 9 speed group set. As the parts start to fail will upgrading to modern 9 speed be okay?
I ask as the parts are so reasonably priced. I wouldn't mind swapping them myself with a buddy over a weekend.
hi Szaj, i wondering is it possible to connect Sora R3000 shifter and Deore M592 derailleur? it would be working together?
Marcin Grajkowski yes. 9 speed cable pull is the same between road and MTB
thx Carson
Budget buyers should just have Sora. For mechanical groupsets, pro's should get Dura Ace while amateurs get 105 (and upgrade from there if required). And for electronic groupsets, pro's should get Dura Ace Di2 while amateurs get Ultegra Di2.
All this separation of groupsets is making bikes unaffordable. Bike manufacturers (Trek/Cervelo/Specialized/Giant etc) will try to sell you a Dura Ace Di2 version, retailing for around $10,000+ (dollars), and save that groupset only for such bikes. Same for Ultegra Di2 bikes going at around a $6,000 price point. What people should do as amateurs is buy the 105 bikes (on those 50% year old model sales!), and do after market upgrades from there to their desired groupset. And marketing departments be damned! 😁😉
I've been using sora for atleast 4 months and I crashed 2 times when sprinting with sora hitting the ground for countless of times it still work smoothly for me, we all know its not the best but it still perform pretty well...
The way he said that his mate with a tiagra is destroying him is hilarious
never thought i would find a video like this. it was very helpful
Do you know if SunRace cassettes are compatible with other brands as a replacement?
ie: SunRace 10spd 11t-40t MS2 cassette can be replaced with ??. Looking for tensile steel for stronger torque measurements. Thanks! Great videos indeed.
zrace, sunshine
Do Sram next.
Is there any rapid shifter for flatbar from shimano 105, ultegra and dura are?
Yes, Shimano Metrea.
@@sabamacx M8000 and similar does interestingly work, too! Vitus Bikes mount them, as you cannot push the Metrea ones sideways.
Is it possible to use 11 speed mtb hub on sora cassette? I’m looking into upgrading cx bike.
Reymon Reyes si es posible solo necesitas uno o dos separadores para rellenar el espacio que sobra porque el cassette de 9 es un poco mas pequeño . Colocas el separador luego instalas el cassette de forma normal
Could the Claris R2000 8-speed drive train be combined with a Tiagra 4700 crank? I want a nice crank with 52/63 chainrings, because I am only after speed for as little as possible. The standard FSA Tempo crank is not that great.
Yes you can
@@InfernoVolatil how about a 105 crank on claris?
Tiagra is 52-36, and yes you could
@@sabognapawis General rule of thumb, you can go 1 speed up or down when mixing geargroups. For example, using a Claris crank and a Sora rear derailieur.
Some have also tried to surpass it by using a 10 speed chain with 9 and 11 speed mechanics. So you'll be able to use a 10 speed crank with a Claris groupset, if you use a 9 speed chain. The reason for that is the width of the chain, and how it changes when the amount of sprockets changes too. I myself are using a 10 speed Tiagra crank with 9 speed Sora and it works just fine.
I have the "deore xt" groupset . I know its classified as a mountain groupset . Does it hurt my specialized road bike that I have it installed on ? Thank you for informative video .
If it works well and you enjoy it it should be fine
Awesome video! Thank you!
Really great video!
I'm running a 2014 Tiagra group set and I'm really not happy about it. It just doesn't seem to function as well as my way older XT stuff with more maintenance.
Would a new Tiagra or 105 be worth the money and hassle? Are there differences in durability/maintenance?
Late reply, but 4700 is not compatible with any other 10 speed kit. All other 10 speed work together (inc mtb cassettes) except that one. Would personally go for 105, as all 11 speed work together, so later on you could get used current gen ultegra or duraace.
I enjoyed the vídeo! Cheers 😊
Can you use a 105 front derailleur with a tiagra rear derailleur and 10-speed chain?
Yes, you can. (Assuming everything else is 2× Tiagra, too.) Go for the FD-5801 (FD-5800 works too) these days. I've done that upgrade on a bike of mine.
@@EditioCastigata with the 105 front derailleur, I'm assuming I should use a 105 shifter?
@@austinslate9157 The FD for 2× are a less problematic part, and many unofficial combinations work. Tiagra 2000 shifter will work without issues. Same pull ratio as 5800 and up. By the way, the CX70 FD will do too, if you need a top-pull one or more tyre clearance.
@@EditioCastigata Awesome! I think this may be my next upgrade on my gravel bike. Thanks for all the help!
@@austinslate9157 Hehe, you're welcome. I've upgraded all my old bikes the last two weeks, thanks to clearance sales and bad weather. Just remember, you'll need a 10s chain and rings (MTB will do too for 1×) and cassette. STI-2000 work with RD-7000 for 2×10s and allow quite large cassettes (tried 34T). Cheap crankset: RS500, 50€ if you shop around. 46-36 best with FD-CX70.
Very informative, thanks