I've used a chainsaw for over 50 years. I've used all the cutter types you mentioned. This video increased my knowledge of the different types of cutters & chains & advantages/disadvantages of each. I know way more than I did before! Thank You!
Wow! That’s great! I’m glad my sharing helped you. I feel like the more we share what we know with others, the more we can learn ourselves! I’m always learning new stuff. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment, I really appreciate that!
Perfect timing to have found your video. I just bought an Oregon 410-120 and have been perplexed with the terminology needed to find out the down angle of my Stihl 18 inch chain 26RS68 which I use on my Stihl MS 250. I called Stihl Customer service to get help understanding the terminology, but she brushed me off because I was not using a Stihl grinder. I then called Oregon and was on hold for 15 minutes and was then redirected to a voice mail. I left a message and have not heard word one in the past two hours. So much for customer "service." Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Oh good, I hope the video was helpful, bummer about the costumer service... I do have have a video on the Oregon 620 grinder, the settings should be the same for the 420, if you haven’t watched it, maybe take a look. Let me know if you have any questions, I’ll do my best to answer them.
@@GoodDayFarm yeah but answer then explanation... Not the other way around... I didn't even hang around... Left to another video... Type a : advantage, disadvantage, ideal for.. not ideal for... Type b : advantage, disadvantage, ideal for.. not ideal for... In depth explanation for those wanna hang around.
As a woodturner, I cut logs into turning blanks - not so much for burning. we as a group, are very aware of the direction of the grain. To crosscut a log you're cutting across the fibers of the log when you rip a log down the center your cut is along the fibers of the wood. Especially if the wood is wet/green, that cut down the center can create a real challenge for a chain with tightly spaced cutters. Skip tooth chains handle that cut better because they allow the wood to clear much better and don't clog up the kerf/chain.
Excellent explanation of different nomenclature of chainsaw chains. Out here in West Texas where the mesquite is thick and hard as nails, I am going to have to find me a Square filed chain for my Stihl and see how well it performs for me on the ranch! Thanks!
hi my name is Scott i live in Australia, the wood here is really hard,so i appriate the things you said about full and semi chisel, will watch more of your vid s cheers
Full skip requires less horsepower and allows for higher rpm. It was designed by Husqvarna to allow their saws to run the longer bars which were previously only run on Stihl saws... All right, all right, just joking here folks. You don’t need to send me hateful comments! Full skip allows for higher rpm which is beneficial for most modern saws when running longer bars. The torque curve of modern saws is much higher than the old muscle saws of the ‘60’s and ‘70’s. Of course older saws can benefit as well. And yes, even a Stihl well benefit from them! Great job Travis. Be Kind, Be Blessed!
Saw Surgeon Whatever buddy. My.Super XL top handle Homelite with a 48 inch bar and full comp chain will cut circles your Stihl!!! Oh yeah, and the rakers are all completely removed on my chain. Hehehe! Couldn't resist!!!! 😝😝😝
Jon the Roofer :: Homelite? That’s cheating... A Homelite would win even if you were running dog chain on it! Send me some pics of that 48” Top Handle!
Good Day Farm :: Hey Travis, you did an excellent job of explaining it. I just figured I had better confirm that I understood you, especially after the smart-alec remark I made! Blessings!
Thank you for the info! I don't cut a lot of wood but when I do it is usually dirty, so I'm going to try a semi-chisel/round file. I hope this will work well for cutting stumps at ground level also.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment. If you’re doing a lot of dirty wood, and stumps, I might try a carbide chain. More expensive, and can’t really be sharpened by hand, and cut slower, but…. They do very well in dirty situations…. As long as you don’t break a tooth off.
G'Day Mate, great vid, I have watched a heap of videos trying to determine the difference and what chain I should run on my MS381 and my MS180, you explained it perfectly for me, I'm just a backyard warrior hitting firewood for myself in Australia. Cheers for your time Mate, got yourself a new Sub
Thanks, I'm going to be using my Huskvarna 24" 460 to cut a lot left over brush/stumps some 2 to 3 inch's in diameter some smaller and some much larger. I'll be cutting them close to the ground and they will be somewhat dirty. So, I'm going to give a semi chisel a whirl. The 24" is unwieldy enough on its own, a more docile chain is probably best in this situation as well.I've been running round full chisel since I purchased it ,5 years ago.
Ha you make me laugh the last 3 videos I watched you start by saying this is going to be a quick video! Over ten mins is no quick vidoe.. keep them coming, I appreciate info.
Haha! You should see how long they are before I edit! lol! I really try to keep the videos around 10 minutes, but it doesn’t always work out. Thanks for watching! Have a Good Day!
thanks! I hope square ground full chisel chains are not too hard to sharpen I've been hand filing round grind for 10 years and have gotten very good. can't wait to try a square grind!
They are definitely tricky to figure out, but once you do, I don’t think they are any more difficult than round. Problem is, most people don’t know what they need to do to accomplish the proper filing, and give up out of frustration. Square is for superior to round, I think you’ll agree once you try it, especially if the chain has been properly set up, not straight out of the box. Good luck, and feel free to ask any questions you may have, I’ll do my best to answer them.
Welcome to the community! If you have any questions, ask away. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. I hope you find some useful information on the channel. Take care!
This is an eye opener for me, great vid time isn't on issue for me. To tell truth after watching this I went to my still dealer ere in Jamaica and they don't even know about square / round ground types of chianti I was like seems I have to start shopping online then because I cut alot of wood it would be nice to have a chain on my saw that cut faster and keeps sharp for a long time with these round grounds I can run 4 tanks then sharpened up my chain but only if I don't it foreign objects but all and all good vid yow
The semi skip chain has more drag which is more for the motor so it’s slower But the full skip is less drag and easier for the motor so it’s gonna cut fast That’s just my experience Also the semi chisel chain is also a more of a home owner chain because it’s less prone to kick back because it’s not as egressive And that’s why when you look at the square ground the angle of the top plate is about 15 degrees because it’s so egressive that if you have over 15 degrees it’s gonna kick back and I found that out the hard way lucky I wasn’t hurt But great video over all 👍
I would have to agree with you on all points of the comp discussion only I was of the opinion that the difference was for old school saws that used torque vs newer saws that run rpm. I have some old Macs here that have a really aggressive cut and fewer cutters to sharpen. Torque pulls it through the cut with big chips and less drag on fewer cutters IMO. Thanks, greta vid.
I’ve ran them on 57cc saws, as long as it was sharp I had no issues. The all I can tell you, I’ve never had a smaller cc saw. Personally, I think bar size is what limits you on smaller cc saws. You go to long and the saw will suffer. Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Thanks bro really helpful that was exactly what I wanted to know without any irrelevant information. I would argee with you that the less teeth the less the chainsaw has to work especially because there are the same amount of drivers on the under side of the chain
Great video! I would also argue that if you ran full-skip or semi-skip, you could run a larger sprocket on the same saw and possibly cut faster than full comp. Just food for thought...
Myself I use a Full chisel chain for felling, semi chisel for bucking, point being full chisel is best for off the ground stuff, semi chisel is good for ground work!
Thanks Travis, very well explained....the only thing is when you say---if you have a smaller cc power head....What constitute a "smaller"cc....I have a 25 yr old Husqvarna 257...20" bar....Is this smaller or medium cc....obviously not large cc...Any suggestion for rip chains?
Good question... I’m not familiar with Husky power heads, but in Stihl, to me, anything under a 261 would be smaller, medium is the 362 range, then over that is the larger ones, 461 and up. What do you mean by a rip chain? One for milling?
I'm using a Stihl MS251C. Do you think a square grind is eating too much wood for a 46cc engine? I've thought of trying a square grind and then seeing if I can sharpen it myself.
Used a round file until now. Thinking of buying an Oregon electric chain sharpener, but never considered, do they only square file chains??? I can't imagine they can cut crescents.
Good video. How can you tell a regular chain from a ripping chain? Some say it doesn't matter which chain you use for ripping. What are your thoughts on this?
When you say ripping, do you mean milling? If so, I have never milled, but my understanding is the cutter angle on a milling chain is 10-15 degrees... so it would be very noticeably different.
I have been heating my house with wood for the past 18 years and cut at least 8 cords every year and have ran both full comp, half skip, and full skip chains. I lean towards smaller power heads in the 40cc range for most of my bucking and have found that the half or full skip chain cuts tremendously faster for me. I will lower the raker a little bit more than factory but only by maybe ten thousandths and have found by keeping the chain speed up, the saws cut better and the chains won't dull as fast as the full comps I used to run. I am in the Southeast and only burn hardwoods so they tend to be rough on saws.
@Denton Dunn I run a full skip chain, just be careful with it, especially with a decently strong power head like yours, it will want to kick back on you if the tip contacts pretty much anything
@@southronjr1570 I'll keep that in mind, and thanks for your reply. I've never ran one but if they're a better chain for cutting hardwood I'll try one out
I liked the video, thankyou, How about a video on ripping chainsaw chains for those of us with Alaskan Saw Mills, maybe show us some options and what works best ! Thanks again, and look forward to your next video
Good question. In my experience, Stihl RS chains hold their edge the best. Of course there are a lot of variables, but overall I think Stihl is a better chain.
I don’t have any experience ripping, but I think either a specific ripping chain, like the Grandberg design orca square filled chain would work great. Something in a skip tooth full chisel.
I prefer full comp for everything. Keep it sharp and it’ll cut easier and quicker. There are some situations where skip is useful, but that’s typically for really big wood... 36” or bigger.
@@GoodDayFarm I was thinking the same , I was never under the impression that regular sprockets (drive links ) had no issue keeping the oil on the track .
Thanks for the heads up, I want to run full chisel ,square ground, full comp on my Stihl 290 and I want to run it on my 661.....where do I buy the chains ,and files? Btw I'd really like to get the triangle files and the double bevel files as well as some older style Carlton raker gauges too
Sorry the video didn’t live up your expectations. Yeah, I didn’t include pitch in this video, as the title explains. I had planned on doing more chain videos, but life has got in the way. Briefly, in a nutshell, pitch is the cutter size, specifically length.
Great info. Thanks. Have couple question? You say smaller CC. What do you consider small? I have a echo 650evl 20inch :-/ and I've used a powercare cross cut to rip a small log bout ten ft long. It did ok but I'm lookn for better resaltes. I'd like to put a bigger bar on it but. You think I could put a larger bar on it? I only paid $45 for it and auction by year ago. In this thing kick butt I think it does better my father's Stihl
I’m not familiar with that saw, how many cc’s is it? Biggest factor to look at for bar size is will it oil it. A good rule of thumb is the cc’s should be two to three times the bar size. But chain style effects it too. And your personal cutting style.
Constructive comment: If you are gonna talk about differences between saw chains for wood; in my mind it would make sense to first deliniate ripping or crosscut chain, then go into various differences related to the rakers & chippers.
Thanks! That’s a good point, I didn’t really think about that. To me, when you talk about ripping, your milling... I know some specific chains for milking have a totally different compliment to them, the cutters are the same, just filed to a different angle than crosscut. Thanks for your input, I really appreciate it. 👍
The Stihl picco chains have both lower and narrower cutters then regular chains. I find the chains with skipped teeth are only found on cheaper saws. I think your right. Less teeth cut a little slower and need less power.
I never in my life seen a depth gauge on a chainsaw to set? You got me on that one. I did like your presentation about the cutters...very good! I'm going with the full Chisel round file, because I can use my dremel with proper stone, and it returns the chain to razor sharp. I know how to do that...I have no idea how to sharpen the square cutter or the 90 degree cutter. I guess that would make a good presentation, how to video.
The upward curved tab of metal in front of every cutter is the depth gauge, only remove the most minimal amount after every 4-5 sharpenings to maintain chip size.
Can you sharpen full chiseled, round file with a electric sharpener like the one Harbor Freight sells? It only has a flat disk that does the grinding. Thanks
So I just bought a full skip as an end around I hope for cutting up butts and first 30ft of what I fell for firewood. I'm in eastern Oregon and cut tamarack(western larch)almost exclusively and cutting 24 inch trees and running a 290 and 291. You think that full skip will help me keep rpm and power for those end cuts until I can afford a 440 or bigger?
Pico chain is just a low profile cutter, and I think a lie kickback chain. Supposed to be less friction, easier fir smaller saws. As for how common, I’m not sure, but definitely available.
@@GoodDayFarm glad to see you are still around. I know you weren't getting into some of specialty chains, but the Husqvarna carving chain is quite unique with no link straps and a cutter for every driver. Weird. It's on their website.
Great video. Just subscribed. One question. What stihl chain do you recommend for milking planks. Oregon has what they call a ripping chain. What is comparable for stihl? Thanks
My buddy makes 20 inch loops of full skip, he says he does it so he only has to file half as many teeth lol, I got a full skip square ground for my 28 inch bar on my ms460, it works great I've got quite a few tanks on it and it is still cutting great, good thing cause I don't know how to file it haha
Full skip on a 20”? Lol! He should file a 114 driver full comp! 😏 Send me your square chain, I’ll take care of it for you, 👍😎 Thanks for watching friend, I really appreciate it! Take care! Have a Good Day!
Depends on the shop, but anywhere from $5-$8. It is worthwhile, you’ll get several sharpening from a chain. It’s best if you can do it yourself, you’ll get even more life from it. 👍😎
How do you call the type of chain with twice as many cutting teeth as "full comp" ? The baby Milwaukee M12 "hatchet" 'chainsaw' has that type of chain, and another YTer described it as smooth - I would imagine it'd take smaller chips for each tooth..
Depends on the length, but typically it should not have any sag but you should be able to pull it away from the bar, no more than an inch, and it should snap back in place when you let go.
Hard to say. It could be to loose. Or the bar itself could be worn. Or could be the wrong pitch chain. Operator technique could do it to... I’d need to see the saw, and see you run it to say for sure.
I would need to see the chain. The bar should have some markings on it to tell you what chain it takes. From what I can see, it should be a 3/8 pitch chain, the 72 probably refers to the drive link count... 20” bar. Hope that helps.
Thank you figured out the problem it's a 16 inch bar with 60 teeth. Apparently the person that had the sore before me took 12 links / 72 links. that's why I was so confused and couldn't find a chain to fit. Thank you
Hi, some of the old chain had depth gauge setting stamped on side. 0.025" --- 25, 0.030" --- 30. Believe 72 was an Oregon 3/8" 0.050" gauge. 73 0.058", 75 0.063". Super 70 chisel. Semi chisel, told holds edge better if cutting trees bordering a water course. Grains of sand drawn up through roots. Carried high up trunk. Stihl chainsaw files are/were made by SARP ( a Swiss company). Same item, cheaper price on eBay. Hope info of interest / use.
Hi my uncle passed away a few months ago he has two Ms 311 stihl chainsaws and a 028 stihl saw as well I actually just sold his 036 pro for 500 bucks it had this absolutely massive bar on it like 32 inch what other chainsaws can I get a big bar on (what saw can handle a bar that big that doesn't cost an arm and a leg) I'm new to chainsaws
Hi, great question! That 036 would have been a keeper! Great saws! As far as what other saws will run a big bar.... I really only know Stihl saws, butvtgat bein said, none of them would be considered cheap. A lot depends on what you’ll be using it for and exactly how big a bar you want. I would say stay in a 70 cc saw or bigger, so something like a Stihl 461 or 661. Really need a little more info before making a recommendation. Thanks for watching! I look forward to hearing more from you.
Great question, thanks. I don’t have much experience in ripping, assuming you mean for milling. But, I would imagine a full chisel skip tooth would be good, if you don’t go with a specific ripping chain.
@@GoodDayFarm thanks. You're awesome. Definitely getting likes and subscribe by me. Just a few other questions if you don't mind, the gauge is the thickness of the lower part of the link that scoops up oil in the bar groove, correct? And that's also stamped in the bar correct? And the pitch is I believe counting 3 rivets and dividing by 2, correct? Makes me wonder why they call it pitch when it's just a measurement of the links?
Thanks! Yes, correct on both questions. That is how you Measure the pitch, but I think it has more to do with how tight of a radius The chain can make around the sprocket and the nose of the bar. Thanks for the questions!
How bout dressing or grinding your bar yourself. Bought the oregon bar dresser to keep it true or level. Would love to see your opinion on it. Or do you just take it in.
I've used a chainsaw for over 50 years. I've used all the cutter types you mentioned. This video increased my knowledge of the different types of cutters & chains & advantages/disadvantages of each. I know way more than I did before! Thank You!
Wow! That’s great! I’m glad my sharing helped you. I feel like the more we share what we know with others, the more we can learn ourselves! I’m always learning new stuff.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment, I really appreciate that!
So so glad you showed us examples. In videos, an image truly is worth a thousand words. Great Vid. Many thanks. : )))
Perfect timing to have found your video. I just bought an Oregon 410-120 and have been perplexed with the terminology needed to find out the down angle of my Stihl 18 inch chain 26RS68 which I use on my Stihl MS 250. I called Stihl Customer service to get help understanding the terminology, but she brushed me off because I was not using a Stihl grinder. I then called Oregon and was on hold for 15 minutes and was then redirected to a voice mail. I left a message and have not heard word one in the past two hours. So much for customer "service."
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Oh good, I hope the video was helpful, bummer about the costumer service...
I do have have a video on the Oregon 620 grinder, the settings should be the same for the 420, if you haven’t watched it, maybe take a look.
Let me know if you have any questions, I’ll do my best to answer them.
Thanks, very informative and good for anyone cutting. I personally run Husqvarna 372xp with full chisel, full skip on a 24" bar cutting mainly cedar.
Thank you! Thanks for watching and got the comment.
Happy cutting!
Hello from Alaska, been cutting for many years, always learn something new, thanks for the Video.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment! Take care!
Thank you for taking time to share your time and experience
Thank you watching and commenting!
If you're short on time, 1.5 speed works great for this vid. Great info.
One way to manage my yacking... lol!
Yeah man a little too much talking ..
I just try to be thorough. 🤷♂️
@@GoodDayFarm yeah but answer then explanation... Not the other way around... I didn't even hang around... Left to another video...
Type a : advantage, disadvantage, ideal for.. not ideal for...
Type b : advantage, disadvantage, ideal for.. not ideal for...
In depth explanation for those wanna hang around.
Meh, my videos aren’t for everyone I guess, but some people do enjoy them.
Very clear and informative TY
Thank you!
very informative
Thank you! Thanks for watching, take care!
As a woodturner, I cut logs into turning blanks - not so much for burning. we as a group, are very aware of the direction of the grain. To crosscut a log you're cutting across the fibers of the log when you rip a log down the center your cut is along the fibers of the wood. Especially if the wood is wet/green, that cut down the center can create a real challenge for a chain with tightly spaced cutters. Skip tooth chains handle that cut better because they allow the wood to clear much better and don't clog up the kerf/chain.
Good point, thanks for sharing. 👍
Excellent explanation of different nomenclature of chainsaw chains. Out here in West Texas where the mesquite is thick and hard as nails, I am going to have to find me a Square filed chain for my Stihl and see how well it performs for me on the ranch! Thanks!
Thanks for watching! Oh, yeah.... that would be a good test for square fixed chain.. 👍
I found your video on chain cutters very informative. It helps me when I understand how my equipment works and what my options are! Thanks!
Thanks! I’m glad you found it useful.
Thanks for watching!
Michael, Once you figure out the gauge and pitch, which will be stamped in the bar, you should be able find any brand chain that’ll work.
hi my name is Scott i live in Australia, the wood here is really hard,so i appriate the things you said about full and semi chisel, will watch more of your vid s cheers
Thanks! I hope the information is useful. Thanks for watching. Take care!
Full skip requires less horsepower and allows for higher rpm.
It was designed by Husqvarna to allow their saws to run the longer bars which were previously only run on Stihl saws...
All right, all right, just joking here folks. You don’t need to send me hateful comments!
Full skip allows for higher rpm which is beneficial for most modern saws when running longer bars.
The torque curve of modern saws is much higher than the old muscle saws of the ‘60’s and ‘70’s. Of course older saws can benefit as well.
And yes, even a Stihl well benefit from them!
Great job Travis.
Be Kind, Be Blessed!
Saw Surgeon
Whatever buddy. My.Super XL top handle Homelite with a 48 inch bar and full comp chain will cut circles your Stihl!!! Oh yeah, and the rakers are all completely removed on my chain. Hehehe! Couldn't resist!!!! 😝😝😝
Yeah, kind of what I said, you just said it better! Lol! Thanks Tedd! 👍
Thanks for watching, have a Good Day!
Joe the roofer, haha! 😂😂😂
Jon the Roofer :: Homelite? That’s cheating... A Homelite would win even if you were running dog chain on it!
Send me some pics of that 48” Top Handle!
Good Day Farm :: Hey Travis, you did an excellent job of explaining it. I just figured I had better confirm that I understood you, especially after the smart-alec remark I made!
Blessings!
Very good job explaining everything especially the square filed full chiseled chain
Thank you! I really appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Where can I get one of those files ?
For square filing?
Yes ser
Here is where I get mine.
www.treestuff.com/save-edge-double-beveled-chisel-file/
Thank you for the info! I don't cut a lot of wood but when I do it is usually dirty, so I'm going to try a semi-chisel/round file. I hope this will work well for cutting stumps at ground level also.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the comment.
If you’re doing a lot of dirty wood, and stumps, I might try a carbide chain. More expensive, and can’t really be sharpened by hand, and cut slower, but…. They do very well in dirty situations…. As long as you don’t break a tooth off.
@@GoodDayFarm Thanks for the info!!
You’re very welcome.
Great info and very concise explanation
Thanks! I appreciate the comment. Thanks for watching! Take care!
G'Day Mate, great vid, I have watched a heap of videos trying to determine the difference and what chain I should run on my MS381 and my MS180, you explained it perfectly for me, I'm just a backyard warrior hitting firewood for myself in Australia. Cheers for your time Mate, got yourself a new Sub
Thanks for watching! And thank you for the kind words!
I’m happy you found the video helpful!
Take care!
Thanks, I'm going to be using my Huskvarna 24" 460 to cut a lot left over brush/stumps some 2 to 3 inch's in diameter some smaller and some much larger. I'll be cutting them close to the ground and they will be somewhat dirty. So, I'm going to give a semi chisel a whirl. The 24" is unwieldy enough on its own, a more docile chain is probably best in this situation as well.I've been running round full chisel since I purchased it ,5 years ago.
Sounds like a plan! Let me know how it goes.
Great video easy to understand and now i now what it meens thanks.
Thanks! I’m glad the video was helpful.
Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Ha you make me laugh the last 3 videos I watched you start by saying this is going to be a quick video! Over ten mins is no quick vidoe.. keep them coming, I appreciate info.
Haha! You should see how long they are before I edit! lol!
I really try to keep the videos around 10 minutes, but it doesn’t always work out.
Thanks for watching! Have a Good Day!
Good informations I give 5 stars...
Thank you!
Thanks for a very informative video.
Thank you! I appreciate the comment and kind words! Thanks for watching! Take care!
Well explained.
Thank you!
Really good video. Very informative. Any suggestions on the best chain for my Poulan 42cc 14" bar, 5/32" ?
Thanks for the question.
I’d say a semi chisel should be fine, but maybe try a pico chain too, it you can find one
Thanks for watching!
pretty nice video, that explains a lot of my questions. Thank you!
Thank you! Thanks for watching!
thanks! I hope square ground full chisel chains are not too hard to sharpen I've been hand filing round grind for 10 years and have gotten very good. can't wait to try a square grind!
They are definitely tricky to figure out, but once you do, I don’t think they are any more difficult than round. Problem is, most people don’t know what they need to do to accomplish the proper filing, and give up out of frustration.
Square is for superior to round, I think you’ll agree once you try it, especially if the chain has been properly set up, not straight out of the box.
Good luck, and feel free to ask any questions you may have, I’ll do my best to answer them.
Will a depth gauge tool work to drop rakers on a full skip?
If it is the kind with the gauge at the end, I believe so, the one with the gauge in the middle probably not.
If it is the kind with the gauge at the end, I believe so, the one with the gauge in the middle probably not.
very detailed and productive so keep them coming bud
Thank you!
Thank you for your time making the video. I’m a new subscriber trying to better my skill with a chainsaw.
Welcome to the community! If you have any questions, ask away.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. I hope you find some useful information on the channel.
Take care!
Yeah, I've been bucking for lots of my life. Can't imagine using any thing less than a Full Chizel chain.
Now that I’ve used square grind, I can’t either!
Great video! Thanks.
Thank you!!!
This is an eye opener for me, great vid time isn't on issue for me. To tell truth after watching this I went to my still dealer ere in Jamaica and they don't even know about square / round ground types of chianti I was like seems I have to start shopping online then because I cut alot of wood it would be nice to have a chain on my saw that cut faster and keeps sharp for a long time with these round grounds I can run 4 tanks then sharpened up my chain but only if I don't it foreign objects but all and all good vid yow
Thank you! And good luck! 👍
I like the yellow and skips for punch cuts. Beware of kick back though.
Solid advice! 👍
Great video. Thanks. I'm trying to choose between 661 and a husky 395xp. Getting a wood chipper and starting a tree removal service next spring.
That’s awesome! Good luck on the business venture!
I don’t know much about Husky’s, but I’ve heard the 395 is a good saw. I know the 661 is. 👍
Great video best explanation I've heard and I tell you I've heard a lot.👍
Thank you! I really appreciate the feedback!
👍
Great video, thank you.
Thanks!
I appreciate the comment.
Thanks for watching, take care!
Learned a lot 👍
Great! I glad you found the video useful, thanks for the comment, and thanks for watching!
The semi skip chain has more drag which is more for the motor so it’s slower
But the full skip is less drag and easier for the motor so it’s gonna cut fast
That’s just my experience
Also the semi chisel chain is also a more of a home owner chain because it’s less prone to kick back because it’s not as egressive
And that’s why when you look at the square ground the angle of the top plate is about 15 degrees because it’s so egressive that if you have over 15 degrees it’s gonna kick back and I found that out the hard way lucky I wasn’t hurt
But great video over all 👍
Thanks for watching! Thank for sharing your experience, it’s always nice to hear about others knowledge... sharing is how we learn! Thanks.
I would have to agree with you on all points of the comp discussion only I was of the opinion that the difference was for old school saws that used torque vs newer saws that run rpm. I have some old Macs here that have a really aggressive cut and fewer cutters to sharpen. Torque pulls it through the cut with big chips and less drag on fewer cutters IMO. Thanks, greta vid.
That’s a valid point, I have had some Macs, and they definitely have torque!
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. 👍
What is the smallest cc motorhead you would use with a skip tooth chain? Thank you for your time.
I’ve ran them on 57cc saws, as long as it was sharp I had no issues. The all I can tell you, I’ve never had a smaller cc saw.
Personally, I think bar size is what limits you on smaller cc saws. You go to long and the saw will suffer.
Thanks for the question, and thanks for watching!
Thank you!
Thanks for watching!!
awesome video ty
Thanks for watching!
Really informative vid, thanks very much
Thank for the comment, and thanks for the watching!
Thank you ❤️❤️❤️❤️
You’re welcome!
Great informative vid!Much appreciated with super explanations!
Thank you!
Thanks bro really helpful that was exactly what I wanted to know without any irrelevant information.
I would argee with you that the less teeth the less the chainsaw has to work especially because there are the same amount of drivers on the under side of the chain
Thanks for watching, glad you found it useful.
Nice video. Thanks for doing this.
Thank you!
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment.
Take care.
good job
Thank you!
very interesting information, very helpful and useful video, thanks
Thank you!
Take care!
Very informative. Thanks
Thank you!
Great video! I would also argue that if you ran full-skip or semi-skip, you could run a larger sprocket on the same saw and possibly cut faster than full comp. Just food for thought...
Thanks!
You probably could, and you definitely could file it faster! 😏
Thanks for the comment!
Take care and have a Good Day!
Myself I use a Full chisel chain for felling, semi chisel for bucking, point being full chisel is best for off the ground stuff, semi chisel is good for ground work!
That’s definitely a good combo!
Very informational. What about Ripping chain?
Thank you, thanks for watching.
I don’t really know much about ripping chains, I’ve never used one.
Sorry I can’t be more helpful on those.
You are definitely correct: a square ground semi chisel would be "point"less!
😂😂😂
Thanks Travis, very well explained....the only thing is when you say---if you have a smaller cc power head....What constitute a "smaller"cc....I have a 25 yr old Husqvarna 257...20" bar....Is this smaller or medium cc....obviously not large cc...Any suggestion for rip chains?
Good question... I’m not familiar with Husky power heads, but in Stihl, to me, anything under a 261 would be smaller, medium is the 362 range, then over that is the larger ones, 461 and up.
What do you mean by a rip chain? One for milling?
Brilliant video thank u
Thanks! 👍
Question? What about the hexa chain from sthil?
Great question! Unfortunately, I know nothing about it…. Sorry.
I run Stihl RM on my 034 and 051, running PS on my 024 WB and my 015 AV. My old Homelites and my Poulan 306A are running Oregon Power Cut.
I'm using a Stihl MS251C. Do you think a square grind is eating too much wood for a 46cc engine? I've thought of trying a square grind and then seeing if I can sharpen it myself.
Hard to say for sure…. I’d try it for yourself and see.
You might have a hard time finger a chain though, just depends what size you run.
Used a round file until now. Thinking of buying an Oregon electric chain sharpener, but never considered, do they only square file chains??? I can't imagine they can cut crescents.
99.9% of grinders do round file. The wheel is U shaped.
Very few square grinders out there.
I can highly recommend the Oregon grinder, good value.
Good video. How can you tell a regular chain from a ripping chain? Some say it doesn't matter which chain you use for ripping. What are your thoughts on this?
When you say ripping, do you mean milling? If so, I have never milled, but my understanding is the cutter angle on a milling chain is 10-15 degrees... so it would be very noticeably different.
@@GoodDayFarm I use an old chain sharpened to 10 degrees for rip cuts.
I have been heating my house with wood for the past 18 years and cut at least 8 cords every year and have ran both full comp, half skip, and full skip chains. I lean towards smaller power heads in the 40cc range for most of my bucking and have found that the half or full skip chain cuts tremendously faster for me. I will lower the raker a little bit more than factory but only by maybe ten thousandths and have found by keeping the chain speed up, the saws cut better and the chains won't dull as fast as the full comps I used to run. I am in the Southeast and only burn hardwoods so they tend to be rough on saws.
Keep the chain speed up is key!
I burn hardwood in Ky with my 60cc 4hp echo CS590, which chain would you suggest be best for my needs? I’ve been using a 20” full-chisel Oregon chain
Sounds like you already run a good chain. 👍
@Denton Dunn I run a full skip chain, just be careful with it, especially with a decently strong power head like yours, it will want to kick back on you if the tip contacts pretty much anything
@@southronjr1570 I'll keep that in mind, and thanks for your reply. I've never ran one but if they're a better chain for cutting hardwood I'll try one out
earned my subscription. Thanks, was just the quick info I was looking for.
Thanks! Welcome to the community!
I liked the video, thankyou, How about a video on ripping chainsaw chains for those of us with Alaskan Saw Mills, maybe show us some options and what works best ! Thanks again, and look forward to your next video
Thanks! I am glad you enjoyed the video.
I don’t have a milk, maybe someday, but for now I really don’t know much about ripping chains.
What do you think the best brand of chain that last the longest on red oak
Good question.
In my experience, Stihl RS chains hold their edge the best.
Of course there are a lot of variables, but overall I think Stihl is a better chain.
Great explanation friend thank for the information.
Thanks!
Hope it is helpful.
Thanks for stopping by, take care!
good info thanks what the best for ripping
I don’t have any experience ripping, but I think either a specific ripping chain, like the Grandberg design orca square filled chain would work great. Something in a skip tooth full chisel.
Is a full complement chain the best for small soft and hardwood cutting?
I prefer full comp for everything. Keep it sharp and it’ll cut easier and quicker.
There are some situations where skip is useful, but that’s typically for really big wood... 36” or bigger.
@@GoodDayFarm okay thanks for the advice and also would a 37cc chainsaw have enough power to effectively drive a 16" full comp chain?
Thanks for the info. If you haven't already, please make a video on chainsaw sharpening.
Thanks!
I have made one. Check out my playlists!
Thanks for watching!
I seen on the Stihl chains on the part that runs in the bar the teeth has dots , what they all about ?
I think that has something to do with how the chain pulls oil from the bar.
Great question though... something to research.
@@GoodDayFarm I was thinking the same , I was never under the impression that regular sprockets (drive links ) had no issue keeping the oil on the track .
Thanks for the heads up, I want to run full chisel ,square ground, full comp on my Stihl 290 and I want to run it on my 661.....where do I buy the chains ,and files? Btw I'd really like to get the triangle files and the double bevel files as well as some older style Carlton raker gauges too
I always had my Stihl dealer order the chains, and I got the files online. I use double bevel flat files.
@@GoodDayFarm thanks you very much
You’re very welcome!
Do you have a video out about rip chains?
If you mean chains for milling, then no, I never have used one.
What type of chainsaw blade would you recommend for hollowing out a log ?
Good question, but I have no idea. Sorry...
Appreciate knowing about saw chain 'chisels'. Could have been done in half the time. Was hoping to learn about 'pitch' too.
Sorry the video didn’t live up your expectations.
Yeah, I didn’t include pitch in this video, as the title explains.
I had planned on doing more chain videos, but life has got in the way.
Briefly, in a nutshell, pitch is the cutter size, specifically length.
Is a full chisel chain ok to use on a 251 sthilsaw ? Thanks in advance Gunter
I never have, but if you can find one that fits, I’d give it a try. As long as it is sharp, it should cut fine!
Just have seen my first video of yours awesome I've subscribed thumbs up my friends
Thank you! I appreciate that!
Great info. Thanks. Have couple question? You say smaller CC. What do you consider small? I have a echo 650evl 20inch :-/ and I've used a powercare cross cut to rip a small log bout ten ft long. It did ok but I'm lookn for better resaltes. I'd like to put a bigger bar on it but. You think I could put a larger bar on it? I only paid $45 for it and auction by year ago. In this thing kick butt I think it does better my father's Stihl
I’m not familiar with that saw, how many cc’s is it?
Biggest factor to look at for bar size is will it oil it.
A good rule of thumb is the cc’s should be two to three times the bar size. But chain style effects it too. And your personal cutting style.
@@GoodDayFarm ok. So mine is a 64 cc. So I'm about there with a 20 inch. 😞😞 I wouldn't hold ya to it but think I'd be ok with a 27?
You could try it. Check how it oils.
I’ve ran a 28” on a Stihl 362, no issues.
Constructive comment: If you are gonna talk about differences between saw chains for wood; in my mind it would make sense to first deliniate ripping or crosscut chain, then go into various differences related to the rakers & chippers.
Thanks! That’s a good point, I didn’t really think about that.
To me, when you talk about ripping, your milling... I know some specific chains for milking have a totally different compliment to them, the cutters are the same, just filed to a different angle than crosscut.
Thanks for your input, I really appreciate it.
👍
The Stihl picco chains have both lower and narrower cutters then regular chains. I find the chains with skipped teeth are only found on cheaper saws. I think your right. Less teeth cut a little slower and need less power.
Piccos are great fir smaller saws. 👍
Yeah you run skip tooth chains on chains with massive bars like 36 in
I never in my life seen a depth gauge on a chainsaw to set? You got me on that one. I did like your presentation about the cutters...very good! I'm going with the full Chisel round file, because I can use my dremel with proper stone, and it returns the chain to razor sharp. I know how to do that...I have no idea how to sharpen the square cutter or the 90 degree cutter. I guess that would make a good presentation, how to video.
The depth gauge is in the chain.
Btw, I do have videos on how to file the square cutters.
Thanks for watching !
The upward curved tab of metal in front of every cutter is the depth gauge, only remove the most minimal amount after every 4-5 sharpenings to maintain chip size.
Can you sharpen full chiseled, round file with a electric sharpener like the one Harbor Freight sells? It only has a flat disk that does the grinding. Thanks
I don’t know their grinder, but I’m sure you can. You have to shape the wheel to the profile you want for sharpening.
@@GoodDayFarm great video btw!
Thanks!
awesome!
Thanks!
Good video and interesting 👍🏻
Thanks! Thanks for watching!
Running a brand new chain is like putting on a fresh pair of pants hot out of the dryer......
Indeed!
I disagree, even Stihl chain straight out of the box benefits a lot from a touch up
I disagree also. your chain should cut like it did new after every sharpening if not then your not sharpening it right.
So I just bought a full skip as an end around I hope for cutting up butts and first 30ft of what I fell for firewood. I'm in eastern Oregon and cut tamarack(western larch)almost exclusively and cutting 24 inch trees and running a 290 and 291. You think that full skip will help me keep rpm and power for those end cuts until I can afford a 440 or bigger?
Great question!
What bar size?
I definitely think a full chisel, full skip will help.
what is a 3/8 pico chain and is it common
Pico chain is just a low profile cutter, and I think a lie kickback chain.
Supposed to be less friction, easier fir smaller saws.
As for how common, I’m not sure, but definitely available.
Relay good
Thanks!
Funny reason but I run a full skip on anything over 24 inch bar so i dont have to sharpen as much.
Yeah, a lot of people do that. 👍
@@GoodDayFarm glad to see you are still around. I know you weren't getting into some of specialty chains, but the Husqvarna carving chain is quite unique with no link straps and a cutter for every driver. Weird. It's on their website.
Sounds like an old school “ full house” chain. 👍
Great video. Just subscribed. One question. What stihl chain do you recommend for milking planks. Oregon has what they call a ripping chain. What is comparable for stihl? Thanks
I am not aware of a milling chain made by Stihl. You could modify any full chisel chain though...
nice video
Thank you!
Thanks for being here, take care and have a Good Day!
My buddy makes 20 inch loops of full skip, he says he does it so he only has to file half as many teeth lol, I got a full skip square ground for my 28 inch bar on my ms460, it works great I've got quite a few tanks on it and it is still cutting great, good thing cause I don't know how to file it haha
Full skip on a 20”? Lol! He should file a 114 driver full comp! 😏
Send me your square chain, I’ll take care of it for you, 👍😎
Thanks for watching friend, I really appreciate it!
Take care! Have a Good Day!
can you square file full chisel after its sharpened with a round file ?
Yes, it a little more difficult, but you can do it.
How much does it cost to sharpen a chain? Is it worthwhile to do so, or should I just throw away a dull chain?
Depends on the shop, but anywhere from $5-$8. It is worthwhile, you’ll get several sharpening from a chain. It’s best if you can do it yourself, you’ll get even more life from it. 👍😎
How do you call the type of chain with twice as many cutting teeth as "full comp" ? The baby Milwaukee M12 "hatchet" 'chainsaw' has that type of chain, and another YTer described it as smooth - I would imagine it'd take smaller chips for each tooth..
I’m not familiar with that type of chain…. Sounds like a “full house” chain…. But I wasn’t aware of them making those anymore.
How tight should the chain be? The chain of my new chainsaw keeps coming off. Thanks
Depends on the length, but typically it should not have any sag but you should be able to pull it away from the bar, no more than an inch, and it should snap back in place when you let go.
@@GoodDayFarm Anything I do wrong that caused the chain to come off?
Hard to say. It could be to loose. Or the bar itself could be worn. Or could be the wrong pitch chain.
Operator technique could do it to... I’d need to see the saw, and see you run it to say for sure.
A bad or broken tensioner could be the problem too.
Thank you great video. I was given an Echo sc6700. Having trouble finding the correct chain. The old chain has 72 on it and 30?
I would need to see the chain. The bar should have some markings on it to tell you what chain it takes.
From what I can see, it should be a 3/8 pitch chain, the 72 probably refers to the drive link count... 20” bar.
Hope that helps.
Thank you figured out the problem it's a 16 inch bar with 60 teeth. Apparently the person that had the sore before me took 12 links / 72 links. that's why I was so confused and couldn't find a chain to fit. Thank you
Oh wow! Yeah, that would be confusing. I’m glad you got it sorted out!
Hi, some of the old chain had depth gauge setting stamped on side. 0.025" --- 25, 0.030" --- 30. Believe 72 was an Oregon 3/8" 0.050" gauge. 73 0.058", 75 0.063". Super 70 chisel.
Semi chisel, told holds edge better if cutting trees bordering a water course. Grains of sand drawn up through roots. Carried high up trunk.
Stihl chainsaw files are/were made by SARP ( a Swiss company). Same item, cheaper price on eBay.
Hope info of interest / use.
Great info! Thanks!
Hi my uncle passed away a few months ago he has two Ms 311 stihl chainsaws and a 028 stihl saw as well I actually just sold his 036 pro for 500 bucks it had this absolutely massive bar on it like 32 inch what other chainsaws can I get a big bar on (what saw can handle a bar that big that doesn't cost an arm and a leg) I'm new to chainsaws
Hi, great question!
That 036 would have been a keeper! Great saws!
As far as what other saws will run a big bar.... I really only know Stihl saws, butvtgat bein said, none of them would be considered cheap.
A lot depends on what you’ll be using it for and exactly how big a bar you want.
I would say stay in a 70 cc saw or bigger, so something like a Stihl 461 or 661.
Really need a little more info before making a recommendation.
Thanks for watching! I look forward to hearing more from you.
which type is typically used in a ripping chain?
Great question, thanks.
I don’t have much experience in ripping, assuming you mean for milling. But, I would imagine a full chisel skip tooth would be good, if you don’t go with a specific ripping chain.
So is there any reason why I couldn't use a stihl chain on a husky?
No, just make sure the gauge and pitch are correct.
@@GoodDayFarm thanks. You're awesome. Definitely getting likes and subscribe by me. Just a few other questions if you don't mind, the gauge is the thickness of the lower part of the link that scoops up oil in the bar groove, correct? And that's also stamped in the bar correct? And the pitch is I believe counting 3 rivets and dividing by 2, correct? Makes me wonder why they call it pitch when it's just a measurement of the links?
Thanks!
Yes, correct on both questions.
That is how you Measure the pitch, but I think it has more to do with how tight of a radius The chain can make around the sprocket and the nose of the bar.
Thanks for the questions!
@@GoodDayFarm makes sense. Thanks again
One more thing... count the drive links when using a different brand, 20” and under seem to have the biggest issue with different brands.
How bout dressing or grinding your bar yourself. Bought the oregon bar dresser to keep it true or level. Would love to see your opinion on it. Or do you just take it in.
Great suggestion! I did a video on that.... th-cam.com/video/Uvi6C8VYSqQ/w-d-xo.html
I hope that covers what you’re asking about.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome I will take a look at it today. New to the channel. Great video on the chains without a doubt be watching more of your stuff
Thanks!
Unfortunately I don’t do chainsaw type videos anymore, but there are lots in my library to go through!! 👍