I just happened to come across this video and now I wonder where the heck I have been or you have been that I have not seen this before...Wow, Thank You so much for an excellent video and sooo informative.. Great info and look forward to going to the shop today. Am getting ready to finish 10 bowls just in time for Christmas gifts and they have been a challenge to get to this point this year. I should spend more time turning but when the weather gets warm I don't spend time in the shop getting sticky and dirty. Thanks again for the great video. You are a talented teacher and at least I appreciate your gift of yourself. Merry Christmas !
Great video. A few comments: I've worked with shellacs for a few decades on flat and turned pieces and have found that shellacs made with grain alcohol (like Everclear) keeps much longer. This may require mixing your own flakes but that is really easy and low labor once you get used to it. It also has a great advantage of allowing you to select different shellac colors to add significant variability to a wonderful finish. With regard to Walnut oil allergies it is my understanding that processed (heated and filtered) Walnut oils (like Mahoney's) do not have any of the allergenic proteins left, but you pay more. I just let my customers know what the finish is. I sell a lot of carved spoons and utensils and Walnut oil is my go to. Keep up the very good work with your videos, they are well done, informative, and appreciated.
@@wortheffort understood. For special requests for food bowls I just finish with homemade olive oil and beeswax mix paste wax. For something that's going to be washed frequently, they have to re treat it on a regular basis anyway and I'll just suggest olive or some other oil they aren't allergic to since it'll never have a chance to get old and sticky or rancid. I may start selling small cans of my softer paste wax mix with the bowl sales (I'll call it bowl butter or something catchy). Things are slow for shows here in VA this time of year, but we have one in a couple weeks. Might introduce the new product there. Best regards to you.
Hi from Airth Central Scotland. I'm a new beginner turner & I'm learning so much from your videos so thanks. Can I ask, can I use the walnut oil in the cooking lane of my supermarket & if so do I need to thin it. If so, what with. Thanks again
Are these bowl blanks you are working with dry?, or Fresh cut..? If you have a video on using green wood or if I am missing something., What would the process be of Roughing out a bowl, from green wood, recently harvested, or would a guy be better off waiting 1-3 years for the wood to dry naturally. I don't have a kiln, so I am curious how you are going about drying your wood you are harvesting.? Thank you so much and I Hope you have a blessed week. Dale
@@wortheffortYes sir, I found one right after I hit send, Im not fully awake yet. Thanks again sir and I hope you have a blessed week,. Keep up the awesome information. It is greatly appreciated. Dale
Hi there, thanks for all of videos, very helpful. Would you mind telling me about that figure 8 shaped sanding pad you were using, it appeared to hold four grades of abrasive. Is that something you have made yourself or is it available to purchase online ?. I use a similar shellac mix, except it’s a three part mix that includes boiled linseed oil. That seems to make the mix last much longer. It might be important to point out that my wood blanks are generally seasoned and relatively dry. I guess that could make quite a difference. My work process also usually starts by sealing with cellulose sanding sealer. It’s something I have done for years, although I have often wondered if I would be better off using the shellac mix as a sanding sealer also. (Your comments would be appreciated ). Do you ever include BLO in your mix ? I appreciate that you are a busy man, but your advice would be valued a great deal. Keep up the good work, all the very best, yours Ricky.
Have you published any content talking about challenges of working in the warehouse shop without HVAC? My shop is not climate controlled. In spring and summer, if I open the bay doors at the wrong time, rain and humidity will instantly start to rust my power tool tops despite having an oil or wax buff on them. In summer, paste wax liquifies in the can like you mentioned around 7:15. Winter is not without challenges. Temps dip to 40's in the shop, too low for certain finishes so work slows to a crawl. Recently, we had extra colds temps that brought the shop below freezing for a few days. Now my yellow glues are toast, liquid hide glues are TBD, and possible some paints and oil finishes are impacted as well. Raw wood and restoration project pieces are certainly shrinking and swelling. It would be invaluable to learn professional/educator tips and techniques from you for working in shops without active climate control. Thanks in advance. JB
I have found that if you make your own shellac and use ethyl alcohol (190 proof Everclear is good), the shellac will have a much longer shelf life. It also smells better and is food safe right out of the jar. It's a real pain to put time in on a finish that doesn't cure properly. You can also mix some Walnut oil in with the shellac as a carrier for rubbing it on.
awldune make sure the underlying shellac is fully cured. I rushed the film a tad bit. Also I took it all off so didn't get a picture of just how smooth it could be.
I don't have nearly so much trouble with bowls cracking, but I'm in NC and the humidity is very high in my shop. 100 degrees in Austin, your shop is practically a kiln :)
How about making plates out of those discarded piece... Or mismatched tops to jars or bowls Or, like YOU be innovative and create something new from your scrap Come on You can do it. You always encourage us!
Woodcraft Green Wood End Sealer !!!!! A thin layer on end-grain within minutes of cutting the blank I’ve NEVER lost a bowl to cracking I turn green blanks to final shape then bag them in a plastic bag with their own shavings inside, take them out 10 minutes per day, weigh them, and once they reach a consistent weight, I’m done You’re losing 1/3 of your bowls ? Good grief- get a humidifier. Paint doesn’t stop cracking
+Don Dailey My dad has started trying that. My honest opinion is the people I talk with who start doing it are generally intermediate turners and it's just as likely their turning skills improved (getting rough blanks parallel) as the alchol displacing water as a reason for the light drop in loss. Besides it's the cell bound stuff that takes so long not the water in pores. I don't think it displaces the cell stuff. But, that's why Dad's experimenting.
Fabulously helpful, finish make the piece, but so much misleading information. I use Linseed as I fear buyer with nut allergy, but interested to try walnut on my own stuff.
Springwood Cottage You didn't state what the misleading information was. But the implication is nut allergies. Statistics on 'walnut allergy' shows it's unlikely to get reaction with most people with nut allergies as walnut allergy is rare among that group. But even someone is allergic it's the protiens people are alergic too and you can buy filtered oil. Read info from the manufacturers of walnut oil used in turning and you'll see lots of facts showing how unlikely people would get a reaction from the oil (note: they never go all out and say 100% mainly because they're small businesses in fear of litigation so you see lots of 99.99%...) Finally, the customer is not given oil in the final productl, they are given the cured polymers which is why I stated I liked walnut oil because it fully cures. It's be like eating plastic, you'll poop it out undigested.
Thank you for correcting me re walnut oil, by misinformation I meant brands pushed with claims of universal superiority. Your explanations of why & how much better.
I just happened to come across this video and now I wonder where the heck I have been or you have been that I have not seen this before...Wow, Thank You so much for an excellent video and sooo informative.. Great info and look forward to going to the shop today. Am getting ready to finish 10 bowls just in time for Christmas gifts and they have been a challenge to get to this point this year. I should spend more time turning but when the weather gets warm I don't spend time in the shop getting sticky and dirty. Thanks again for the great video. You are a talented teacher and at least I appreciate your gift of yourself. Merry Christmas !
I always enjoy your videos because you are so knowledgeable and a excellent teacher. Thanks for sharing and helping me to be a better wood turner.
Excellent tutorial. Very well demonstrated and informative. Great video?
Great video. A few comments: I've worked with shellacs for a few decades on flat and turned pieces and have found that shellacs made with grain alcohol (like Everclear) keeps much longer. This may require mixing your own flakes but that is really easy and low labor once you get used to it. It also has a great advantage of allowing you to select different shellac colors to add significant variability to a wonderful finish. With regard to Walnut oil allergies it is my understanding that processed (heated and filtered) Walnut oils (like Mahoney's) do not have any of the allergenic proteins left, but you pay more. I just let my customers know what the finish is. I sell a lot of carved spoons and utensils and Walnut oil is my go to. Keep up the very good work with your videos, they are well done, informative, and appreciated.
Ya, but even Mahoney's is percieved as being allergic so you have to price it accordingly.
@@wortheffort understood. For special requests for food bowls I just finish with homemade olive oil and beeswax mix paste wax. For something that's going to be washed frequently, they have to re treat it on a regular basis anyway and I'll just suggest olive or some other oil they aren't allergic to since it'll never have a chance to get old and sticky or rancid. I may start selling small cans of my softer paste wax mix with the bowl sales (I'll call it bowl butter or something catchy). Things are slow for shows here in VA this time of year, but we have one in a couple weeks. Might introduce the new product there. Best regards to you.
I'm getting a ton of great info from your video's - Thanks for sharing!
Great
Awesome Information!! Really enjoy your videos and have learned so much. Thank you again!
Thanks
My wife is just starting up so all these tip are great for her
Hi from Airth Central Scotland. I'm a new beginner turner & I'm learning so much from your videos so thanks. Can I ask, can I use the walnut oil in the cooking lane of my supermarket & if so do I need to thin it. If so, what with. Thanks again
Yes, straight from bottle. Will take longer to cure than Mahoney’s due to how processed but that is the traditional oil dating back centuries.
I really enjoy your videos. I'm learning so much. Thank you.
Great, thanks.
Are these bowl blanks you are working with dry?, or Fresh cut..? If you have a video on using green wood or if I am missing something., What would the process be of Roughing out a bowl, from green wood, recently harvested, or would a guy be better off waiting 1-3 years for the wood to dry naturally. I don't have a kiln, so I am curious how you are going about drying your wood you are harvesting.?
Thank you so much and I Hope you have a blessed week.
Dale
I have a whole bunch of videos covering all those topics. All easy searches on my channel.
@@wortheffortYes sir, I found one right after I hit send, Im not fully awake yet. Thanks again sir and I hope you have a blessed week,. Keep up the awesome information. It is greatly appreciated.
Dale
Hi there, thanks for all of videos, very helpful. Would you mind telling me about that figure 8 shaped sanding pad you were using, it appeared to hold four grades of abrasive. Is that something you have made yourself or is it available to purchase online ?. I use a similar shellac mix, except it’s a three part mix that includes boiled linseed oil. That seems to make the mix last much longer. It might be important to point out that my wood blanks are generally seasoned and relatively dry. I guess that could make quite a difference. My work process also usually starts by sealing with cellulose sanding sealer. It’s something I have done for years, although I have often wondered if I would be better off using the shellac mix as a sanding sealer also. (Your comments would be appreciated ). Do you ever include BLO in your mix ? I appreciate that you are a busy man, but your advice would be valued a great deal. Keep up the good work, all the very best, yours Ricky.
It's just a two sided velcro pad for hook and loop sandpaper. Fairly common.
with the utility bowls, don't you find the beeswax comes off as soon as the bowl is washed?
+Don Dailey not if you burnish it in. Basically is soaks into the top layer of the wood.
Have you published any content talking about challenges of working in the warehouse shop without HVAC? My shop is not climate controlled. In spring and summer, if I open the bay doors at the wrong time, rain and humidity will instantly start to rust my power tool tops despite having an oil or wax buff on them. In summer, paste wax liquifies in the can like you mentioned around 7:15. Winter is not without challenges. Temps dip to 40's in the shop, too low for certain finishes so work slows to a crawl. Recently, we had extra colds temps that brought the shop below freezing for a few days. Now my yellow glues are toast, liquid hide glues are TBD, and possible some paints and oil finishes are impacted as well. Raw wood and restoration project pieces are certainly shrinking and swelling.
It would be invaluable to learn professional/educator tips and techniques from you for working in shops without active climate control.
Thanks in advance. JB
I live in semi-arid Texas.
Thank you so much for your teaching the go to finish.
What brand is ur deal cote... also where did u get that 4 sided sanding pad...ur very good at educating
Thanks for the demos and the shellac explications. Marc
muziqjazz your welcome, I'll get better at editing.
I have found that if you make your own shellac and use ethyl alcohol (190 proof Everclear is good), the shellac will have a much longer shelf life. It also smells better and is food safe right out of the jar. It's a real pain to put time in on a finish that doesn't cure properly. You can also mix some Walnut oil in with the shellac as a carrier for rubbing it on.
Some good tips here, I will have to try that technique of applying shellac with sandpaper to make a slurry.
awldune make sure the underlying shellac is fully cured. I rushed the film a tad bit. Also I took it all off so didn't get a picture of just how smooth it could be.
Great video and very helpful. Can you tell me the type of squeeze bottle that your using and where you bought them?
Love your channel, Great information!
Thanks
100 degrees? San Marcos? I'm in Dublin, up by Stephenville, where u at?
Love this
I don't have nearly so much trouble with bowls cracking, but I'm in NC and the humidity is very high in my shop. 100 degrees in Austin, your shop is practically a kiln :)
awldune Ya, I also think it's probrably much hotter up by the rafters. It could just be this particular tree too.
How about making plates out of those discarded piece...
Or mismatched tops to jars or bowls
Or, like YOU be innovative and create something new from your scrap
Come on You can do it. You always encourage us!
Woodcraft Green Wood End Sealer !!!!!
A thin layer on end-grain within minutes of cutting the blank
I’ve NEVER lost a bowl to cracking
I turn green blanks to final shape then bag them in a plastic bag with their own shavings inside, take them out 10 minutes per day, weigh them, and once they reach a consistent weight, I’m done
You’re losing 1/3 of your bowls ?
Good grief- get a humidifier. Paint doesn’t stop cracking
Time is definitely money! Thanks for the video. I'll try it this week.One question: can you use paste beeswax?
Most don't use walnut oil because of nut allergies grape seed oil seems to be the go to oil.butcher's block works good to.
ever try soaking green bowls overnight in denatured alcohol? I've had good luck with that preventing cracking.
+Don Dailey My dad has started trying that. My honest opinion is the people I talk with who start doing it are generally intermediate turners and it's just as likely their turning skills improved (getting rough blanks parallel) as the alchol displacing water as a reason for the light drop in loss. Besides it's the cell bound stuff that takes so long not the water in pores. I don't think it displaces the cell stuff. But, that's why Dad's experimenting.
Thanks for the tips.
Fill the cracks with colored resin
Good deal. Thanks
I was in a turning club and they told us to submerge it in rubbing alcohol for 3 months per inch
I've heard that before. supposed to displace the water from the cells. might be a wives tale.
Fabulously helpful, finish make the piece, but so much misleading information. I use Linseed as I fear buyer with nut allergy, but interested to try walnut on my own stuff.
Springwood Cottage You didn't state what the misleading information was. But the implication is nut allergies. Statistics on 'walnut allergy' shows it's unlikely to get reaction with most people with nut allergies as walnut allergy is rare among that group. But even someone is allergic it's the protiens people are alergic too and you can buy filtered oil. Read info from the manufacturers of walnut oil used in turning and you'll see lots of facts showing how unlikely people would get a reaction from the oil (note: they never go all out and say 100% mainly because they're small businesses in fear of litigation so you see lots of 99.99%...) Finally, the customer is not given oil in the final productl, they are given the cured polymers which is why I stated I liked walnut oil because it fully cures. It's be like eating plastic, you'll poop it out undigested.
Thank you for correcting me re walnut oil, by misinformation I meant brands pushed with claims of universal superiority. Your explanations of why & how much better.
Have you ever turned persimmon?
Not native here.
it works well
So long as you don try to butter your bread with your wax finish :)
WillEyedOney huh?
wortheffort You keep it in the fridge.
good one
There's a galifianakisian quality about this guy.
Great video and very helpful. Can you tell me the type of squeeze bottle that your using and where you bought them?
Ernie Holzhauer I think I got these at the local woodcraft store but in essence they're just restaurant style ketchup squirters.