For me the collar lock type is the only way to go with a bumper pull trailer, when it comes to gooseneck/fifth wheel trailers I’ll take a gooseneck over a fifth wheel everytime
@@davidbenji1 nothing in the bed to get in the way when I’m not towing, better articulation between the truck and trailer when hauling hay or equipment in and out of hay fields.
@andersonnettleship845 Thanks for your reply. I've never used either but the truck I recently purchased came with a gooseneck hitch. Indeed it's flush with the bed when not in use so I'm going to keep it and use it. Thanks!
@@davidbenji1 glad to help, since you haven’t hauled with either system a quick safety tip, if you ever experience a blowout on your truck be very careful with the brakes when slowing down. With a blown tire (especially a rear tire) heavy application of the brakes can cause the trailer to jackknife instantly into the cab and sometimes through the cab. Dually trucks are preferred but single rear wheels are ok unless the load is really heavy. Always check your tires for proper inflation and condition. I’ve experienced one blowout on the left front tire when hauling a 65 Horsepower Tractor with a loader just after topping a hill, all I could do was turn the trailer brake control to maximum and hold it until my passenger took over while I held the wheel with both hands and he (passenger) downshifted for me. When we got stopped at the bottom I was barely on the left shoulder and we started in the right hand lane! If I had tried to use the truck brakes I’m sure I would have wrecked. Ironically I had ordered a new set of tires that morning to be installed the next day. Always be aware of the condition of your truck and trailer, maintenance is definitely important, and remember most drivers of the cars near you are blissfully unaware of any vehicle with a trailer or heavy load and the importance of the Safety Zones around those vehicles. Good luck and stay safe out there.
Thank you for posting this. I just bought the yoke style and fiddled with it for hours. The instructions say to unlock it you pull and rotate. I felt silly when I saw you pull up and back and it worked for me! I have arthritis and couldn't open it at first.
Most ranchers and my family and I grew up with Collar-Lok so all we do is just kick the collar in and out when we hook up our trailers, we don’t use the tab very much
Yeah, Collar locks have an instant failure point. That pivot pin in the front rusts or shears and the hitch comes apart. Just happened to me on 12-foot trailer. The pivot pin rusted (in TEXAS) and the whole half of the locking bar fell off! luckily, we were in our own property and not on the road. They have a second failure point in that the sliding latch "collar" gets egg shaped over time and the jaws open up slightly loosening the fit on the ball. I call these "old man hitches" cause older folks are just used to them, and won't try newer, better engineered options. There is a reason you won't find any of this style on U-haul trailers for example.
I have the last style on my vintage 16ft stock car trailer and I actually like that style hitch but when I latch it, I just kick the clamp shut. I kind of wanna swap to the EZ latch
Kicking the jaw closed on the collar-lok coupler is the only way to ensure the safety of your hands. The E-Z Latch coupler is the way to go! It's performance is incredible. www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler
Just picked up a trailer and have the last style coupler. It's a PITA, has to be constantly lubed... I'm here because I was looking for a better option. Will be ordering that quick hitch!
I just picked up a utility trailer that has the Yoke coupler. Is it normal to be able to lift and slide back the coupler and be able to release the trailer from the ball even with a pin in?
What pin? If you're speaking of a coupler lock like # e98886, the coupler should not come open. Are you using the correct size trailer ball? The needed ball diameter should be stamped into the metal of the coupler.
@@etrailer I'm talking about the coupler pin to keep it latched to the ball while in tow. I'm using a pin pretty similar to the one you've listed. The coupler and the ball are both 2 inch.
Bull collar or collar lock is IMO much safer. The hitch won't come off when going over big bumps. But why no mention of the articulating coupler systems?
A more conventional latch type coupler can be made much safer by using something like # e98883.Articulating couplers are typically used by folks interested in overlanding, but they're definitely becoming more popular. We'll add those next time we update the article.
The plus is definitely their strength and how easy they are to use. You don't need to have the pintle and the lunette ring perfectly lined up in order to hitch up. The drawback is that because there's a loose fit between the two, there will be lots of movement and noise.
You'll need to remove the welds by cutting them off without damaging the trailer tongue. A professional welder would be able to handle this with ease. Removal of the existing and installing the replacement isn't a do-it-yourself job, you'll want a professional to handle the project for you.
The Demco EZ Latch coupler has a hole in the side of the coupler that a lock such as # e98887 can be installed into. This will prevent the coupler from being removed or installed on a trailer ball. www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler-Locks/etrailer/e98887.html
Question: what is the proper name for the last collar lok assisting tab. My tab broke and I need a replacement but I can’t find it by name . Can you help? Thanks
It sounds like you're speaking of the low-profile latch. Unfortunately, we don't offer that replacement part. Your best bet would be to replace the entire coupler. This link will take you to our selection of trailer couplers. www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler
I would call it a collar lever. There are two different kinds. One is styled after the trigger style which pivots upward toward the vehicle pulling the collar one way or the other. The other kind, shown in the video is the side to side swing lever style. I have three of the collar styles. 1) Collar only, with a hole that goes through the coupler with a locking safety pin. 2) Collar with the pull up trigger style lever 3) Collar with the side to side swing style low-profile lever with safety pin. The thing I like about these couplers is their simplicity, durability, reliability, and peace of mind. There is literally nothing that would fail on these. It's either latched or it isn't. It won't work unless that collar is slid forward then it's latched. And you know when it's latched. There are many parts that could fail which have no effect on it's security. There's literally only 3 parts. No adjustments ever have to be made and there's no second guessing if it's "really latched?". Those piece of junk trigger couplers have ELEVEN parts which, if one part fails, the coupler won't work. Those trigger couplers should be obsolete. The mechanics behind the collar lock coupler I like better than the Demco EZ Latch are that the collar coupler secures with side to side action with literally only 2 heavy components vs the standard upward/downward action of trigger couplers which have between 7 and 11 breakable parts. There will never be an upward action that could cause the collar coupler component to move another direction. The EZ Latch, nice as it is, and a great idea, still rely on SEVEN multiple parts to keep it latched and, the latching mechanism direction is upward/downward. It is possible to latch a ball with a multiple piece, trigger style and still think it's latched but have it pop up. If that tiny screw in the EZ Latch comes loose or breaks, that spring actuated lock mechanism will jam and your coupler is going to be stuck on the ball. And, I can see the EZ Latch jamming if you use it in other than perfect level paved parking lots in the city. I've done it. Farm/construction/country rough dirty roads use is the proving ground. The idea of a little screw and that spring holding things together bothers me on the EZ Latch. The biggest gripe with a literal "two piece" collar coupler is closing the "clam shell''". I usually just kick it with my boot or use a heavy rubber mallet. Should always keep a mallet and other trailer related tools with you.
Is it normal for the trailer couple to rattle and be a little loose even with the 2 bolts tightened down? I'm being told by family that it's fine and normal. Seems a little suspicious to me. We're talking about a small one jetski trailer. Thanks Also how can I tighten it if the couple bolts are tight?
Are you speaking of the bolts that attach the coupler to the trailer's tongue? There shouldn't be any movement there. Are the bolts fully threaded along their entire length? If not, you can either use fully threaded bolts or add some washers as shims which will allow you to fully tighten the bolts. Hope that helps you!
@@etrailer Thanks and sorry I had a typo or two that made it tough to understand what I was saying. Yeah, the trailer coupler on the very front of the trailer with the two bolts though it wiggles up and down a few millimeters. The bolts that run through it are tight, with plenty of thread sticking out from the nut. That may be the problem-- that the bolts aren't fully threaded. I will check on that ASAP.. Thanks for the reply and safe towing!
Those trigger latch couplers are outdated garbage. Junk. Too many parts, no assurance you're fully latched, difficult to use, too many parts, needs lubricating. I've liked and use the collar lock style and have some of the issues he mentioned but, the nice part is having the wide opening to get the ball into the target coupler area. Just have to be able to move the coupler side to side to get the other half of the assembly closed for the collar to secure. Those EZ latch couplers are nice though, very simple and easy to use. Wonder if they need adjustment over time with wear/tear?
It's difficult to see which brand that ball mount is, but as long as you use one that's properly rated for the trailer and tongue weight load of the trailer, you'll be just fine.
For me the collar lock type is the only way to go with a bumper pull trailer, when it comes to gooseneck/fifth wheel trailers I’ll take a gooseneck over a fifth wheel everytime
Why do you like gooseneck over fifth wheel?
@@davidbenji1 nothing in the bed to get in the way when I’m not towing, better articulation between the truck and trailer when hauling hay or equipment in and out of hay fields.
@andersonnettleship845 Thanks for your reply. I've never used either but the truck I recently purchased came with a gooseneck hitch. Indeed it's flush with the bed when not in use so I'm going to keep it and use it. Thanks!
@@davidbenji1 glad to help, since you haven’t hauled with either system a quick safety tip, if you ever experience a blowout on your truck be very careful with the brakes when slowing down.
With a blown tire (especially a rear tire) heavy application of the brakes can cause the trailer to jackknife instantly into the cab and sometimes through the cab.
Dually trucks are preferred but single rear wheels are ok unless the load is really heavy.
Always check your tires for proper inflation and condition.
I’ve experienced one blowout on the left front tire when hauling a 65 Horsepower Tractor with a loader just after topping a hill, all I could do was turn the trailer brake control to maximum and hold it until my passenger took over while I held the wheel with both hands and he (passenger) downshifted for me.
When we got stopped at the bottom I was barely on the left shoulder and we started in the right hand lane! If I had tried to use the truck brakes I’m sure I would have wrecked.
Ironically I had ordered a new set of tires that morning to be installed the next day.
Always be aware of the condition of your truck and trailer, maintenance is definitely important, and remember most drivers of the cars near you are blissfully unaware of any vehicle with a trailer or heavy load and the importance of the Safety Zones around those vehicles.
Good luck and stay safe out there.
Thank you for posting this. I just bought the yoke style and fiddled with it for hours. The instructions say to unlock it you pull and rotate. I felt silly when I saw you pull up and back and it worked for me! I have arthritis and couldn't open it at first.
You're very welcome, we're glad we could help!
Most ranchers and my family and I grew up with Collar-Lok so all we do is just kick the collar in and out when we hook up our trailers, we don’t use the tab very much
Yeah, Collar locks have an instant failure point. That pivot pin in the front rusts or shears and the hitch comes apart. Just happened to me on 12-foot trailer. The pivot pin rusted (in TEXAS) and the whole half of the locking bar fell off! luckily, we were in our own property and not on the road. They have a second failure point in that the sliding latch "collar" gets egg shaped over time and the jaws open up slightly loosening the fit on the ball. I call these "old man hitches" cause older folks are just used to them, and won't try newer, better engineered options. There is a reason you won't find any of this style on U-haul trailers for example.
I have the last style on my vintage 16ft stock car trailer and I actually like that style hitch but when I latch it, I just kick the clamp shut. I kind of wanna swap to the EZ latch
Kicking the jaw closed on the collar-lok coupler is the only way to ensure the safety of your hands. The E-Z Latch coupler is the way to go! It's performance is incredible.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler
is the Demco EZE coupler also self adjusting?
Just picked up a trailer and have the last style coupler. It's a PITA, has to be constantly lubed... I'm here because I was looking for a better option. Will be ordering that quick hitch!
Awesome! Let us know if you have any questions...
Which of these couplers holds the ball snuggest? I hate rattles and the EZ hitch didn't seem that snug.
can you lock the e-z latch ? so no one can flip it off while you're parked somewhere?
Sure can! I'd recommend using # e98888. I'll link it below for you.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Tongue-Lock/etrailer/e98888.html
I just picked up a utility trailer that has the Yoke coupler.
Is it normal to be able to lift and slide back the coupler and be able to release the trailer from the ball even with a pin in?
What pin? If you're speaking of a coupler lock like # e98886, the coupler should not come open. Are you using the correct size trailer ball? The needed ball diameter should be stamped into the metal of the coupler.
@@etrailer I'm talking about the coupler pin to keep it latched to the ball while in tow. I'm using a pin pretty similar to the one you've listed.
The coupler and the ball are both 2 inch.
Bull collar or collar lock is IMO much safer. The hitch won't come off when going over big bumps. But why no mention of the articulating coupler systems?
A more conventional latch type coupler can be made much safer by using something like # e98883.Articulating couplers are typically used by folks interested in overlanding, but they're definitely becoming more popular. We'll add those next time we update the article.
What about a pintle hitch for landscape trailers. Pros, cons?
The plus is definitely their strength and how easy they are to use. You don't need to have the pintle and the lunette ring perfectly lined up in order to hitch up. The drawback is that because there's a loose fit between the two, there will be lots of movement and noise.
Really like that last one “Jake’s pick” but my coupler on the Jayco is welded on , so how can I switch it out ?
You'll need to remove the welds by cutting them off without damaging the trailer tongue. A professional welder would be able to handle this with ease. Removal of the existing and installing the replacement isn't a do-it-yourself job, you'll want a professional to handle the project for you.
for that demco model how do you lock it so people dont steal your trailer when its not in use
The Demco EZ Latch coupler has a hole in the side of the coupler that a lock such as # e98887 can be installed into. This will prevent the coupler from being removed or installed on a trailer ball.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler-Locks/etrailer/e98887.html
Question: what is the proper name for the last collar lok assisting tab. My tab broke and I need a replacement but I can’t find it by name . Can you help? Thanks
It sounds like you're speaking of the low-profile latch. Unfortunately, we don't offer that replacement part. Your best bet would be to replace the entire coupler. This link will take you to our selection of trailer couplers.
www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Coupler
I would call it a collar lever. There are two different kinds. One is styled after the trigger style which pivots upward toward the vehicle pulling the collar one way or the other. The other kind, shown in the video is the side to side swing lever style. I have three of the collar styles. 1) Collar only, with a hole that goes through the coupler with a locking safety pin. 2) Collar with the pull up trigger style lever 3) Collar with the side to side swing style low-profile lever with safety pin. The thing I like about these couplers is their simplicity, durability, reliability, and peace of mind. There is literally nothing that would fail on these. It's either latched or it isn't. It won't work unless that collar is slid forward then it's latched. And you know when it's latched. There are many parts that could fail which have no effect on it's security. There's literally only 3 parts. No adjustments ever have to be made and there's no second guessing if it's "really latched?". Those piece of junk trigger couplers have ELEVEN parts which, if one part fails, the coupler won't work. Those trigger couplers should be obsolete.
The mechanics behind the collar lock coupler I like better than the Demco EZ Latch are that the collar coupler secures with side to side action with literally only 2 heavy components vs the standard upward/downward action of trigger couplers which have between 7 and 11 breakable parts. There will never be an upward action that could cause the collar coupler component to move another direction. The EZ Latch, nice as it is, and a great idea, still rely on SEVEN multiple parts to keep it latched and, the latching mechanism direction is upward/downward. It is possible to latch a ball with a multiple piece, trigger style and still think it's latched but have it pop up. If that tiny screw in the EZ Latch comes loose or breaks, that spring actuated lock mechanism will jam and your coupler is going to be stuck on the ball. And, I can see the EZ Latch jamming if you use it in other than perfect level paved parking lots in the city. I've done it. Farm/construction/country rough dirty roads use is the proving ground. The idea of a little screw and that spring holding things together bothers me on the EZ Latch. The biggest gripe with a literal "two piece" collar coupler is closing the "clam shell''". I usually just kick it with my boot or use a heavy rubber mallet. Should always keep a mallet and other trailer related tools with you.
Is it normal for the trailer couple to rattle and be a little loose even with the 2 bolts tightened down? I'm being told by family that it's fine and normal. Seems a little suspicious to me. We're talking about a small one jetski trailer. Thanks Also how can I tighten it if the couple bolts are tight?
Are you speaking of the bolts that attach the coupler to the trailer's tongue? There shouldn't be any movement there. Are the bolts fully threaded along their entire length? If not, you can either use fully threaded bolts or add some washers as shims which will allow you to fully tighten the bolts. Hope that helps you!
@@etrailer Thanks and sorry I had a typo or two that made it tough to understand what I was saying. Yeah, the trailer coupler on the very front of the trailer with the two bolts though it wiggles up and down a few millimeters. The bolts that run through it are tight, with plenty of thread sticking out from the nut. That may be the problem-- that the bolts aren't fully threaded. I will check on that ASAP.. Thanks for the reply and safe towing!
You're welcome, please let us know how it works out!
Atwood. Mic drop 🎤
Those trigger latch couplers are outdated garbage. Junk. Too many parts, no assurance you're fully latched, difficult to use, too many parts, needs lubricating. I've liked and use the collar lock style and have some of the issues he mentioned but, the nice part is having the wide opening to get the ball into the target coupler area. Just have to be able to move the coupler side to side to get the other half of the assembly closed for the collar to secure. Those EZ latch couplers are nice though, very simple and easy to use. Wonder if they need adjustment over time with wear/tear?
You might need to make an initial adjustment to the nut on the underside of the coupler. We haven't seen the need for adjustment as of yet..
The bending forces on that drop hitch must be massive - looks very weak!
It's difficult to see which brand that ball mount is, but as long as you use one that's properly rated for the trailer and tongue weight load of the trailer, you'll be just fine.