First video on the Morpheus II Cooler swap here: th-cam.com/video/K-9k5cRbrPU/w-d-xo.html There we discuss VRM and VRAM temps, as well as cooler installation in depth. This video will mostly focus on liquid metal application for GPUs as well as it's efficacy for thermal improvement.
Hey Ali, im a bit new on your Channel and i saw your Video were you Delidded the i5. In the Video you mention that we can buy your Delidding Tool on your shop, but I can´t find it.
From my Experience Liquid Metal should only be used on CPUs/GPUs when you are either Overclocking OR your Temps reach around 75-80°C or higher. I delidded my 7700k and at Stock Clocks I only got about -10°C. (from 65 to 55°C). But with Overclock 5GHz it lowered Temps from 90+°C to 65°C. You get only 3-10°C when your starting Temp is lower then 70°C. But If your Temps get higher Liquid Metal really shines. Also Liquid Metal is REALLY hard to apply the right way/amount. From what I saw in this Video, he MAY have applied too little Liquid Metal.
Gucky He definitely applied too little. I apply about 4 times as much when I delid. I just did an 8700K that runs geeat at 5.1GHz on air. He could have dropped twice as much if he'd used more. It was my first thought when he applied it
Expect a -5c drop. Nothing special, but it's a drop non the less. I've done this to my 1080 ti ftw3. Will be getting the Morpheus II in a couple days. I'm sitting at 62c across all with stock cooler/liquid metal 90% fan speed, at 26c ambient, grizzly minus 8 pads, game load: Rise of the Tomb Raider 1440p SMAAx4. I'm hoping I get 56c max from Morpheus II. Will be using noctua new sterrox a12's (2000rpm). And of course liquid metal.
At least to me, the risk of shorting out a now $900 GPU is not worth the 3 degrees drop in temp. It makes absolutely no difference in terms of performance if you are already in the 50s.
No, you mean nail varnish?.. fucking lame idea. Who told you that?. Why don't people get the proper electronic equipment. What is wrong with people. You want conformal coat or kapton tape
I used liquid metal for my GTX 1080 as well, but not only for the chip. I wanted to short the shunt resistors, which actually worked really well for about 2 months and I could run the card at 2126 Mhz without any problems. But then one of the shunts fell off one day and the card didn't give any signal to my monitor. So I was hoping to get it replaced. Luckily enough I got it replaced. Since then I'm not using liquid metal any more, because the risk is to high for me to kill the card again. Now I use Arctic MX-2 on the 1080 compared with an Arctic Hybrid II 120 and my temps barely get over 40°C and it can still run at 2088 MHZ on the chip and 5704 MHz on the memory. I also had an Arctic Accelero Xtreme III installed and the temps also didn't get higher than 45-50°C while the card was whisper quiet. So I would buy Arctic products everytime again, because they have an awesome price/performance ratio. If I remember correctly I bought the Hybrid II für around 60€! That's 5€ less than the Morpheus II here in Germany! Anyway the Morpehus is an awesome cooler and really an alternative for people who can't fit a watercooler in their rig, eventhough it takes nearly 4 slots. :D
Mount 120 fans on asus strix 1080 ti, and u get almoust same results. One different - for asus need zip-tie or another cheap mounting (and does'nt need to buy cable adapter separately)
Liquid metal is not all about lower temperature. For direct contact application like in GPU and laptop, it's also about stability. I've tried those conventional paste (made of silicone, zinc oxide, silver, micro-diamond which scratch, etc) and they usually bleed out after a while, about several months or so depends on the type being used. NOT dried out BUT bleed out. With high temperature, they become less viscous and escaping through the gap between chip die and cooler plate. This didn't happen with liquid metal.
That tape over the smd's could probably be hard to get totally sealed and liquid metal could flow underneath. If one is a bit afraid of that, another idea is to use nail polish to secure them.
Any time you use liquid metal you (in my opinion) HAVE to electrically insulate. Otherwise you are just gambling. Adding just slightly too much LM (which is nearly impossible to know even with experience) will cause it to squeeze out the surplus which puts it millimeters away from the exposed components next to the GPU. If those get shorted it's very likely game over for the card. Thankfully it's easy to insulate. I would trust tape personally (but if you use tape then at least make sure it is rated for 80celcius or more). The ideal solution for a perfect seal is conformal coating, although nail polish will also do just fine. Avoid plastidip or anything else that can not withstand heat well. It WILL get hot next to the GPU die and this needs to be stable over many thermal cycles. If you do it right though then the risk of shorting anything is virtually zero. But honestly, you can achieve almost as good results with just kryonaut which is not electrically conductive. LM is not as beneficial on most GPUs simply because GPUs have a lot more surface area than most CPUs - and thus the thermal interface is not as bottlenecked here. (this might become different with upcoming 7nm Navi cards with tiny dies though...) If anyone knows about insulation materials that are just as stable as conformal coating or nailpolish yet is also easier to remove though - I would like to hear your suggestions. I have considered some form of putty might be suitable, but I'm not sure if there is a good one that would be thermally stable enough. most simple moulding puttys and the like tend to get very sort or even runny at high temps.
Yeah I'm getting almost 20c delta difference in temp. I used it on my Asus Strix 980ti, before on load I was getting anywhere from 77c and up a little, and now after Conductonaut Liq-Metal, on load 62c and below. It's an awesome stuff. I did this Liq-metal treatment six month ago and still today same as the first day I applied it.
Yeah I think you should go for it, you'll be surprised by the results. Oh btw instead of using electrical tape (33) variant, I used double layer of clear nail polish on surrounding components around the gpu die. Also 17w/mk fujipoly thermal pads on VRM's...it really helps with overclocking.
Delta is greek, it is used in many subjects math, physics, chemistry, ect. It is used to represent difference. A delta in time is a difference in time. A delta in temperature is a difference in temperature.
with my GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition (which is connected to custom loop) I applied the thermal grizzly kryonaut and I get around 45-46 degrees under load, but the my room ambient is much higher at about 32-33 degrees and the 4 corsair ML120 pro fans I put on my 480 radiator are around 800-1100 I would say (I built a custom fan curve that is based on the water temperature) so overall the system is quite quiet, with reasonable temperatures considering the ambient temperature.
I recently purchased one of these heatsinks and put it on my new 1080 non OC reference msi card. I've also replaced the paste with Conductanaut and added a bunch of copper heatsinks to all the chokes and VRM. I'm pleasantly surprised with the temps and the amount of overclocking I got. I was able to get 2102 mhz on core clock and 6000mhz on the memory clock. I did Heaven Benchmark on 1080 max settings for 30 mins and the temps stuck around 56c on 40% fan speed or 723-ish RPM. A fair bit a warning though depending on the motherboard and the fans you are using the graphic will now take up either 3 or 4 slots. On my mATX z370 MSI Mortar and the Noctua 120mm fans the card takes up 4 slots and it just barely touches the USB ports on the side of my motherboard.
It really doesn´t.. His temps were phenomenal already for being an air cooler on thermal paste, the ridiculous maintenance of Liquid Metal is not worth 3°C...
What ridiculous maintenance do you mean? You apply it once and you are done. It won't dry out or degrade in any form by time or heat (unlike most thermal pastes).
Yes, it is, because GPU Boost 3.0 will use any kind of headroom to boost up your GPU speed. Meaning, if you are locked at 1900 MHz, with thermal paste and you get 50C, and replace it with metal, you'll get more than a 3C down in heat, more like 5-10C lower in heat. But since GPU boost increases your clock speed with out the user having to, it becomes less so thats why you'll see in other videos that the GPU overclocks better and higher without any user input
Yes it will dry up, As fast as 3 months and if you do cycle the heat (Play a lot), it will require you to re-paste every 6 months under mixed use... I did this on 2 laptops and it will simply not last a full year, Went back to Kryonaut and haven´t had a single issue since.. Do not get me wrong, Liquid Metal is fantastic! if you are willing to re-paste every 6 months or so. In a complicated laptop environment it makes no sense what so ever. Undervolting did a much more drastic difference over Liquid Metal dropping single handled 15°C over the max temp on a 7700HQ with STOCK THERMAL PASTE.
I really want to buy the Morpheus II with 2x NF-F12s and put it on my 1080FTW. My 1080 overclocks really well but it loses close to 30-50ish MHz from GPU boost. I can hit 2139MHz stable but it drops to 2088MHz while under load (with my fan curve the max temp is 75c but the fans get really loud). I was able to hit 2190MHz on the core when I set my PC near an open window in the winter (Idle was around 15c and load was around 27-29c), so it's definitely the temps keeping it down. Edit: Added temps
Use epoxy is the best for SMD cover isolation I used cold welding epoxy because of strength and not changing dimension after solidification.But, similar epoxy works best then tapes and paste.
I certainly gained a lot on my MSI 970 GAMING 4G, compared to the Arctic Silver 5 paste which was previously being used... from 66°C in furmark to 55°C ! (fans locked to 70%) Somehow the IDLE temperatures are the same as good old paste or even 1-2°C higher (fans off)... there must be a scientifical explaination.
It doesn't seem like the risk with the liquid metal is worth the improved thermals. I am pretty amazed at how good the Morpheus is compared to th stock cooler, and the aftermarket hybrid solution out there that cost more than twice as much. I was sooo close to buying a Kraken g12 and x62 for my 1080ti, but now.......gah.
I use liquid metal on my CPU, however I do not use Liquid metal on my MSI GTX Lightning, the cooling is outstanding, and as you found, temperature reduction on a GPU is far different from an i7 CPU.
I do use LM on my GPU (Accelero III cooler) and CPU (Ryzen 1800x)....just because YOLO.....love LM, 4-6c low on the CPU made it from 76c to 70c on extreme OC. Worth the application in my case.
was pointed at your channel by UFD tech pre dominantly for your camera capture skills they are indeed excellent content was also good . Subscribed and notification started .. Keep the good work going loved it ..
Basically the end result is that the temps would've been relatively the same if the regular paste had just been stepped up to Kryonaut instead of the cheaper paste. Although this is kinda interesting that liquid metal does hardly anything in this case, but I guess its similar to how pointless it is to put liquid metal on top of an Intel IHS.
not true, as usual "it depends". I dropped 5deg load temps moving from kryo to conduca on my 1080ti custom wc loop. There is no one case fits all here.
God damn it. I'm limited by my own nCase again. I desperately want to grab this cooler, slap my iPPC NF-F12s onto it and LM the die but it won't fit in my case! I hope Raijintek makes a low(-er) profile version of this cooler in the future.
I hope nobody follows your install on this lol. The stock sc2 backplate should be on there as the screws are what holds the vrm and vram plates on and it would fit just fine. Your other video you were using an ek backplate or something aftermarket which is why it didn't fit.
i would have used clear nail polish to coat the caps around the GPU, instead of tape. better protection and no sticky mess when you come to replace the thermal compound. What life expectancy would you think you would get from the heat sink before the Gallium starts to eat away at the alu heat sink? or is it a nickle plated copper one?
Would love to see a vs between the morpheus and accelero as another friend below said with conductonaut but use instead 2 noctua industrialppc 3000rpm OR the enermax d.f. storm 3500rpm fans. Nothing beats them atm. It woulda been so epic.
I have gtx 660 ti from evga with blower style cooler, but it overheats in 5 seconds.... even with new thermal paste and clean heatsink... and when let's say I play gta on very high settings I can play at 60fps but when my gpu renders 60 fps even in minecraft it's making like wave lines across the monitor I tried to do some research and found out that it only does it because the gpu is making more frames than the monitors refresh rate, mine's 60hz but it still happens even with v-sync on, but the main issue is the heat.
I use only liquid metal paste and my temps in my costum extrem watercooling loops are nice on my 1080ti... But i have max 42 C° on GPU by 37.7 C° water temp. I hope it help some body. GPU run max OC on 2073 MHz. Under 50 C° on air are realy great.
Results really seem wrong, i changed my aorus gtx1080ti xtreme edition paste to thermal grizzly Kryonaut and dropped 8-10c straight away, it was a godsend...GPU's require a very generous amount of paste unlike a CPU, this could be the cause as liquid metal for safety reasons you want to be sparing....
Would be interesting to know how the stock cooler would do with liquid metal or even the same thermal paste you used for the morpheus II. Since we all know stock paste usually isn't the greatest.
I just added an LM'ed Morpheus to my 1070. Absolutely ridiculous results - two 120 mm fans at a locked (reported) 0% (450 rpm - SILENT) and it will not go over 50 degrees, even with the card's power limit cranked. Can't believe how well this thing performs. Ye gods it's an expensive cooler, but for silence freaks like me it's the best there is.
Issue for me is, did just replacing the default paste it comes with on the stock cooler make a huge difference or was it the new cooler you put on, it would have been nice to see the Liquid meter on the stock cooler to see if that makes a bigger difference then 3c.
Nice video mate, i couldn't really recommend liquid metal on anything other than delid applications as it really doesn't give enough difference, unless of course you just want every possible degree then i wouldn't bother. Atleast on my Watercooling loop for my CPU, i saw no noticeable gains over the Gelid GC Extreme paste i always use which is considered one of the best.
I dropped 5deg under load on my 1080ti custom loop switching to tg metal from tg kryonaut, that's more than enough difference to justify switching for what is a relatively simple procedure if you are careful and take your time.
I wouldn't recommend liquid metal on GPU for a long-term solution 1. The GPU chip and heatsink plate are not flat enough, therefore it is not properly sealed. 2. Liquid metal would dry up and has a high chance of change turning into dust/powder form and due to improperly sealed, the conductive dust would be everywhere. If you are a kind of person who changes thermal paste every year, sure why not.(not referring to this youtuber because he looks like he knows what he is doing)
1) more than flat enough 2) long term testing has shown it doesn't dry up, not in several years at least. Its clearly enthusiast level stuff but it is worth doing, as long as you are careful with the application then its fine, I dropped 5deg on my GPU to just 39deg under full load on water.
The 1080 Ti gets pretty hot. I would love to see the different temperatures between stock and this 3rd party cooler on 1080, 1070 and 1060 ... and maybe also on the 1050 :)
> not getting over 45° using a 1080Ti Back off with that bullshit. My 1060 Gaming X version with Twin Coolers run at about 70° just playing Overwatch. It's bullshit something 2x faster like 1080Ti that consumes much more power can just run at 45°. Even on idle 45° is BS.
there's no way to get this gpu cooler anymore at least in my country and even amazon and newegg usa all are out of stock... all i can find is the kraken g12 or the arctics accelero
Mate, how did you manage to place the cooler on this GPU? I got the 1080 Ti Black Edition and those pins on the baseplate prevent the Morpheus cooler to align properly with the GPU die. I even managed to chip the corner of my GPU die. Not happy at all!
How did you manage to align the heat sink without bumping these spikes on the midplate? I got Morpheus II Core and when I try to place it the midplate spikes bump the heat sink and I have no good contact between the GPU die and the heat sink. Even I managed to chip the corner of the GPU die as apparently I applied excessive force trying to get the stuff installed....
First video on the Morpheus II Cooler swap here: th-cam.com/video/K-9k5cRbrPU/w-d-xo.html
There we discuss VRM and VRAM temps, as well as cooler installation in depth.
This video will mostly focus on liquid metal application for GPUs as well as it's efficacy for thermal improvement.
Hey man, in a Q&A a while back I asked you about morality in choosing AMD vs Nvidia, what do you think now with the Nvidia partnership?
Did the morpheus 11 fit inside your ncase m1?
Will Nzxt kraken g12 and x42 makes it even cooler?
Hey Ali, im a bit new on your Channel and i saw your Video were you Delidded the i5. In the Video you mention that we can buy your Delidding Tool on your shop, but I can´t find it.
Optimum Tech I was told by Ranjitek that the heatsinks have an anodized base and shouldn't be used with liquid metal :/
From my Experience Liquid Metal should only be used on CPUs/GPUs when you are either Overclocking OR your Temps reach around 75-80°C or higher.
I delidded my 7700k and at Stock Clocks I only got about -10°C. (from 65 to 55°C). But with Overclock 5GHz it lowered Temps from 90+°C to 65°C.
You get only 3-10°C when your starting Temp is lower then 70°C. But If your Temps get higher Liquid Metal really shines.
Also Liquid Metal is REALLY hard to apply the right way/amount. From what I saw in this Video, he MAY have applied too little Liquid Metal.
Gucky
He definitely applied too little. I apply about 4 times as much when I delid. I just did an 8700K that runs geeat at 5.1GHz on air. He could have dropped twice as much if he'd used more. It was my first thought when he applied it
You know what! We are greedy, now do a liquid metal apply on the EVGA SC2! Who else notification squad!
So... Any results yet?
@@gpeaes what are the results
Expect a -5c drop. Nothing special, but it's a drop non the less. I've done this to my 1080 ti ftw3. Will be getting the Morpheus II in a couple days.
I'm sitting at 62c across all with stock cooler/liquid metal 90% fan speed, at 26c ambient, grizzly minus 8 pads, game load: Rise of the Tomb Raider 1440p SMAAx4.
I'm hoping I get 56c max from Morpheus II. Will be using noctua new sterrox a12's (2000rpm). And of course liquid metal.
@@gpeaes SO how did this turn out?
beaR so, how well did it work?
EVGA 1070 FTW
Before: 78
After: 70
At least to me, the risk of shorting out a now $900 GPU is not worth the 3 degrees drop in temp. It makes absolutely no difference in terms of performance if you are already in the 50s.
You can also apply nail polish remover or a claer coat on smd and then put tape that would be better
No, you mean nail varnish?.. fucking lame idea. Who told you that?. Why don't people get the proper electronic equipment. What is wrong with people. You want conformal coat or kapton tape
D J Wizard what is wrong with coating it with clear nail Polish it works and i don't see what can go wrong
D J Wizard nail polish is non conductive so why would it be crazy?
Hugo exactly
I didn't use any coating on my TXP and it's been running perfectly almost 2 years. Liquid metal has not moved.
I used liquid metal for my GTX 1080 as well, but not only for the chip. I wanted to short the shunt resistors, which actually worked really well for about 2 months and I could run the card at 2126 Mhz without any problems. But then one of the shunts fell off one day and the card didn't give any signal to my monitor. So I was hoping to get it replaced. Luckily enough I got it replaced. Since then I'm not using liquid metal any more, because the risk is to high for me to kill the card again. Now I use Arctic MX-2 on the 1080 compared with an Arctic Hybrid II 120 and my temps barely get over 40°C and it can still run at 2088 MHZ on the chip and 5704 MHz on the memory. I also had an Arctic Accelero Xtreme III installed and the temps also didn't get higher than 45-50°C while the card was whisper quiet. So I would buy Arctic products everytime again, because they have an awesome price/performance ratio. If I remember correctly I bought the Hybrid II für around 60€! That's 5€ less than the Morpheus II here in Germany! Anyway the Morpehus is an awesome cooler and really an alternative for people who can't fit a watercooler in their rig, eventhough it takes nearly 4 slots. :D
Looks to me like the liquid metal could seep in through the electrical tape
You used cotton buds to spread the liquid metal. Will that not introduce fiber (impurities) and hence get higher temps.
Zain Haider I always thought about that.
No because the fibers don't get ripped off from it, liquid metal doesn't stick like normal thermal paste does, it just coats it.
Mount 120 fans on asus strix 1080 ti, and u get almoust same results. One different - for asus need zip-tie or another cheap mounting (and does'nt need to buy cable adapter separately)
Liquid metal is not all about lower temperature. For direct contact application like in GPU and laptop, it's also about stability. I've tried those conventional paste (made of silicone, zinc oxide, silver, micro-diamond which scratch, etc) and they usually bleed out after a while, about several months or so depends on the type being used. NOT dried out BUT bleed out. With high temperature, they become less viscous and escaping through the gap between chip die and cooler plate. This didn't happen with liquid metal.
Thanks for doing that test, saves me the hassle/risk of trying it.
Liquid metal affects aluminium yes or not?
Checkout liquid electrical tape, works amazing for coating caps when delidding.
That tape over the smd's could probably be hard to get totally sealed and liquid metal could flow underneath. If one is a bit afraid of that, another idea is to use nail polish to secure them.
As reworker, you should be careful when clean with really smaller SMT. Also it is good idea to avoid touch with your oil finger on die.
Any time you use liquid metal you (in my opinion) HAVE to electrically insulate. Otherwise you are just gambling. Adding just slightly too much LM (which is nearly impossible to know even with experience) will cause it to squeeze out the surplus which puts it millimeters away from the exposed components next to the GPU. If those get shorted it's very likely game over for the card.
Thankfully it's easy to insulate. I would trust tape personally (but if you use tape then at least make sure it is rated for 80celcius or more). The ideal solution for a perfect seal is conformal coating, although nail polish will also do just fine. Avoid plastidip or anything else that can not withstand heat well. It WILL get hot next to the GPU die and this needs to be stable over many thermal cycles. If you do it right though then the risk of shorting anything is virtually zero.
But honestly, you can achieve almost as good results with just kryonaut which is not electrically conductive. LM is not as beneficial on most GPUs simply because GPUs have a lot more surface area than most CPUs - and thus the thermal interface is not as bottlenecked here. (this might become different with upcoming 7nm Navi cards with tiny dies though...)
If anyone knows about insulation materials that are just as stable as conformal coating or nailpolish yet is also easier to remove though - I would like to hear your suggestions. I have considered some form of putty might be suitable, but I'm not sure if there is a good one that would be thermally stable enough. most simple moulding puttys and the like tend to get very sort or even runny at high temps.
Yeah I'm getting almost 20c delta difference in temp. I used it on my Asus Strix 980ti, before on load I was getting anywhere from 77c and up a little, and now after Conductonaut Liq-Metal, on load 62c and below. It's an awesome stuff. I did this Liq-metal treatment six month ago and still today same as the first day I applied it.
Yeah I think you should go for it, you'll be surprised by the results. Oh btw instead of using electrical tape (33) variant, I used double layer of clear nail polish on surrounding components around the gpu die. Also 17w/mk fujipoly thermal pads on VRM's...it really helps with overclocking.
Delta is greek, it is used in many subjects math, physics, chemistry, ect. It is used to represent difference. A delta in time is a difference in time. A delta in temperature is a difference in temperature.
I've found normal thermal paste with a conductivity of 16W/mK!
Sadly, it doesn't look like the Morpheus II is around anymore. I can't find any US retailers that have it in stock.
I like the B-roll. Dramatically unplugging in beautiful 4k!
I have the Zotac 1060 Mini with the stock cooler, undervolt 850mv, overclock to 1904mhz. Runs Heaven and furmark at a cool 68°C 🥳
with my GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition (which is connected to custom loop) I applied the thermal grizzly kryonaut and I get around 45-46 degrees under load, but the my room ambient is much higher at about 32-33 degrees and the 4 corsair ML120 pro fans I put on my 480 radiator are around 800-1100 I would say (I built a custom fan curve that is based on the water temperature) so overall the system is quite quiet, with reasonable temperatures considering the ambient temperature.
Next time use a diamond paste, clear diamond have heat conduction up to 2320W/mK, it's safer than liquid metal and can be also cheaper
I recently purchased one of these heatsinks and put it on my new 1080 non OC reference msi card. I've also replaced the paste with Conductanaut and added a bunch of copper heatsinks to all the chokes and VRM. I'm pleasantly surprised with the temps and the amount of overclocking I got. I was able to get 2102 mhz on core clock and 6000mhz on the memory clock. I did Heaven Benchmark on 1080 max settings for 30 mins and the temps stuck around 56c on 40% fan speed or 723-ish RPM. A fair bit a warning though depending on the motherboard and the fans you are using the graphic will now take up either 3 or 4 slots. On my mATX z370 MSI Mortar and the Noctua 120mm fans the card takes up 4 slots and it just barely touches the USB ports on the side of my motherboard.
Love the videos!! They get better every time and you can really see the hard work you put in. My favorite tech channel on TH-cam right now.
3°C is 3°C. Little things add up.
It really doesn´t.. His temps were phenomenal already for being an air cooler on thermal paste, the ridiculous maintenance of Liquid Metal is not worth 3°C...
What ridiculous maintenance do you mean? You apply it once and you are done. It won't dry out or degrade in any form by time or heat (unlike most thermal pastes).
Yes, it is, because GPU Boost 3.0 will use any kind of headroom to boost up your GPU speed. Meaning, if you are locked at 1900 MHz, with thermal paste and you get 50C, and replace it with metal, you'll get more than a 3C down in heat, more like 5-10C lower in heat. But since GPU boost increases your clock speed with out the user having to, it becomes less so thats why you'll see in other videos that the GPU overclocks better and higher without any user input
Yeah, a really comprehensive test would contain GPU performance and power usage data.
Yes it will dry up, As fast as 3 months and if you do cycle the heat (Play a lot), it will require you to re-paste every 6 months under mixed use... I did this on 2 laptops and it will simply not last a full year, Went back to Kryonaut and haven´t had a single issue since..
Do not get me wrong, Liquid Metal is fantastic! if you are willing to re-paste every 6 months or so. In a complicated laptop environment it makes no sense what so ever. Undervolting did a much more drastic difference over Liquid Metal dropping single handled 15°C over the max temp on a 7700HQ with STOCK THERMAL PASTE.
This channel deserves more subs man. Your content is too good.
Zotac GTX 1080 AMP! with Kraken G10 and H55 here. When using NT H1, the GPU was sitting around 47°C, with CLLU it's 45°C
Damjan Kovacev the cost of that would be around double this cooler tho. N it would not work with the stock vrm/vram heatsink on this card.
Should have shown Clockspeeds since GPU Boost will increase the clockspeeds when you have lower heat.
Yo...you know what I meant.... ;p
ive just used liquid metal on my 1080ti fully custom watercooled with i7 7700k and i was getting 64 under full load now im getting 49 :]
I would consider getting the Morpheus 2 if only I could fit the back plate. I think it really needs it given the amount of weight is being added.
I really want to buy the Morpheus II with 2x NF-F12s and put it on my 1080FTW. My 1080 overclocks really well but it loses close to 30-50ish MHz from GPU boost. I can hit 2139MHz stable but it drops to 2088MHz while under load (with my fan curve the max temp is 75c but the fans get really loud). I was able to hit 2190MHz on the core when I set my PC near an open window in the winter (Idle was around 15c and load was around 27-29c), so it's definitely the temps keeping it down.
Edit: Added temps
Use epoxy is the best for SMD cover isolation I used cold welding epoxy because of strength and not changing dimension after solidification.But, similar epoxy works best then tapes and paste.
You can leave the tape on without it melting? That’s a relief for a person like me who is thinking about doingt smth similar...
I certainly gained a lot on my MSI 970 GAMING 4G, compared to the Arctic Silver 5 paste which was previously being used... from 66°C in furmark to 55°C ! (fans locked to 70%)
Somehow the IDLE temperatures are the same as good old paste or even 1-2°C higher (fans off)... there must be a scientifical explaination.
Id rather undervolt the card while locking it to 1950mhz to reduce power draw than increasing the fan speed
All you need to do now is undervolt with a slight over clock. 👍
It doesn't seem like the risk with the liquid metal is worth the improved thermals. I am pretty amazed at how good the Morpheus is compared to th stock cooler, and the aftermarket hybrid solution out there that cost more than twice as much. I was sooo close to buying a Kraken g12 and x62 for my 1080ti, but now.......gah.
I would have loved to see the thermals at 500rpm or even 300RPM
As soon as I see the "Letterbox" Effect, I know that I am in for a treat. Awesome cuts in the videos. Keep up the great work.
3-4c not bad if you already have the liquid metal at home.
Getting ready to put this on my 1080tis with my ekwaterblocks
I'm going to put clear nail polish on the contacts so I wont have to worry about it
Thanks, was considering it but not anymore.
using z5 for 3yrs now and im satisfied bang for the buck$
I wonder how can gallium be a better conductor than silver since silver's thermal conductivity is 430 W/(m K) while Gallium's is only 29 W/(m K).
Only Optimum Tech can make unplugging a pc look awesome
I still cant believe how you can have 36k Subs. The quality of your videos is just flatout astonishing!
I use liquid metal on my CPU, however I do not use Liquid metal on my MSI GTX Lightning, the cooling is outstanding, and as you found, temperature reduction on a GPU is far different from an i7 CPU.
I've done it to my zotac 1080ti amp extreme with shunts done with lm and I see a 9 degree drop
I do use LM on my GPU (Accelero III cooler) and CPU (Ryzen 1800x)....just because YOLO.....love LM, 4-6c low on the CPU made it from 76c to 70c on extreme OC. Worth the application in my case.
was pointed at your channel by UFD tech pre dominantly for your camera capture skills they are indeed excellent content was also good . Subscribed and notification started .. Keep the good work going loved it ..
Please test Morpheus II vs Accelero S3 with the same fans in both tests.
Deepcool thermal paste is one of the best out there.
Basically the end result is that the temps would've been relatively the same if the regular paste had just been stepped up to Kryonaut instead of the cheaper paste. Although this is kinda interesting that liquid metal does hardly anything in this case, but I guess its similar to how pointless it is to put liquid metal on top of an Intel IHS.
not true, as usual "it depends". I dropped 5deg load temps moving from kryo to conduca on my 1080ti custom wc loop. There is no one case fits all here.
What of the tape was acting as a insulator for the heat and that’s why you didn’t see such a big improvement??
God damn it. I'm limited by my own nCase again. I desperately want to grab this cooler, slap my iPPC NF-F12s onto it and LM the die but it won't fit in my case! I hope Raijintek makes a low(-er) profile version of this cooler in the future.
I wonder how low temps will an RX570 hit with this cooler and liquid metal, with be quiet! Fans running at 100% all the time
I hope nobody follows your install on this lol. The stock sc2 backplate should be on there as the screws are what holds the vrm and vram plates on and it would fit just fine. Your other video you were using an ek backplate or something aftermarket which is why it didn't fit.
i would have used clear nail polish to coat the caps around the GPU, instead of tape. better protection and no sticky mess when you come to replace the thermal compound.
What life expectancy would you think you would get from the heat sink before the Gallium starts to eat away at the alu heat sink? or is it a nickle plated copper one?
When I'm in the mood for some sweet b-roll, Optimum Tech never fails to satisfy!
your camera work and video editing transform tech videos in something like art?
Thx for this great video.
For me it would be interesting how the liquid metal works with the stock cooler.
Love to see if this cooler works on the Radeon VII!
Done it with mein 1080 a good year ago. It's powerfull with the good fans.
Would love to see a vs between the morpheus and accelero as another friend below said with conductonaut but use instead 2 noctua industrialppc 3000rpm OR the enermax d.f. storm 3500rpm fans. Nothing beats them atm. It woulda been so epic.
I have gtx 660 ti from evga with blower style cooler, but it overheats in 5 seconds.... even with new thermal paste and clean heatsink... and when let's say I play gta on very high settings I can play at 60fps but when my gpu renders 60 fps even in minecraft it's making like wave lines across the monitor I tried to do some research and found out that it only does it because the gpu is making more frames than the monitors refresh rate, mine's 60hz but it still happens even with v-sync on, but the main issue is the heat.
Ulquara get this
Ugh, aren't the bases anodized copper? That's not going to end well for your gpu or heatsink
I use only liquid metal paste and my temps in my costum extrem watercooling loops are nice on my 1080ti... But i have max 42 C° on GPU by 37.7 C° water temp. I hope it help some body. GPU run max OC on 2073 MHz. Under 50 C° on air are realy great.
UFD Tech brought me here
Results really seem wrong, i changed my aorus gtx1080ti xtreme edition paste to thermal grizzly Kryonaut and dropped 8-10c straight away, it was a godsend...GPU's require a very generous amount of paste unlike a CPU, this could be the cause as liquid metal for safety reasons you want to be sparing....
The drop is bigger when You use it on stock cooler, but Morpheus II is already cooling it really well, hence the small difference in different paste.
Liquid metal with SC2 cooler on graph is missing.
Similar difference in temp I saw with my Asus R9 290X DCUII when using LM.
I assume the electrical tape was removed before installing?? Melty melty
Now, I want to see someone slap that cooler & Liquid Metal onto a 1050Ti & observe the temperatures
Why would you want to spend that much money on a 1050Ti? Just buy a better card.
Noise normalized performance would make. Much are sense but thanks you nonthelens
Would be interesting to know how the stock cooler would do with liquid metal or even the same thermal paste you used for the morpheus II. Since we all know stock paste usually isn't the greatest.
expect -5c.
ok so now test a gpu waterblock with normal and metallic thermal compound in a similar manner as this with various fan speeds
I just added an LM'ed Morpheus to my 1070. Absolutely ridiculous results - two 120 mm fans at a locked (reported) 0% (450 rpm - SILENT) and it will not go over 50 degrees, even with the card's power limit cranked. Can't believe how well this thing performs.
Ye gods it's an expensive cooler, but for silence freaks like me it's the best there is.
It's watts per millikelvin not meter ^^
Saw you on Randomfrankp's channel & gotta admit you upload some quality content, definitely subscribed.
I bet it's 3degress less while boosting higher
Issue for me is, did just replacing the default paste it comes with on the stock cooler make a huge difference or was it the new cooler you put on, it would have been nice to see the Liquid meter on the stock cooler to see if that makes a bigger difference then 3c.
expect -5c vs stock paste, ive done this already with my evga gtx 1080 ti ftw3.
Nice video mate, i couldn't really recommend liquid metal on anything other than delid applications as it really doesn't give enough difference, unless of course you just want every possible degree then i wouldn't bother. Atleast on my Watercooling loop for my CPU, i saw no noticeable gains over the Gelid GC Extreme paste i always use which is considered one of the best.
I dropped 5deg under load on my 1080ti custom loop switching to tg metal from tg kryonaut, that's more than enough difference to justify switching for what is a relatively simple procedure if you are careful and take your time.
I wouldn't recommend liquid metal on GPU for a long-term solution
1. The GPU chip and heatsink plate are not flat enough, therefore it is not properly sealed.
2. Liquid metal would dry up and has a high chance of change turning into dust/powder form and due to improperly sealed, the conductive dust would be everywhere.
If you are a kind of person who changes thermal paste every year, sure why not.(not referring to this youtuber because he looks like he knows what he is doing)
1) more than flat enough 2) long term testing has shown it doesn't dry up, not in several years at least. Its clearly enthusiast level stuff but it is worth doing, as long as you are careful with the application then its fine, I dropped 5deg on my GPU to just 39deg under full load on water.
The 1080 Ti gets pretty hot. I would love to see the different temperatures between stock and this 3rd party cooler on 1080, 1070 and 1060 ... and maybe also on the 1050 :)
my 1080ti doesnt go over 45c
plus or minus 45c?
> not getting over 45° using a 1080Ti
Back off with that bullshit.
My 1060 Gaming X version with Twin Coolers run at about 70° just playing Overwatch. It's bullshit something 2x faster like 1080Ti that consumes much more power can just run at 45°. Even on idle 45° is BS.
Heck, as proven here, even if you use liquid metal + custom cooler, it's still 50°
On my Zotac 970 LM made a 12°C difference... got lucky I guess!
The outro music is so relaxing going along his voice :3
there's no way to get this gpu cooler anymore at least in my country and even amazon and newegg usa all are out of stock... all i can find is the kraken g12 or the arctics accelero
Was it worth it? Very much so... the 1080 ti will begin dropping clocks after 47... so the fact u got 46 is amazing and will let ur card go balls out.
I always wonder do the PCMR even game it seems that the greatest pleasure seems to be in the build
Does this mod will work with Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 WINDFORCE OC 8G and with two 3000rpm fans?
0:10 disliked the comment suggesting to use liquid metal :)
Mate, how did you manage to place the cooler on this GPU? I got the 1080 Ti Black Edition and those pins on the baseplate prevent the Morpheus cooler to align properly with the GPU die. I even managed to chip the corner of my GPU die. Not happy at all!
LOL SCRUBBY
Just a question that I forgot to ask in the Morpheus II video. Does the Morpheus II introduce some sag?
Rigel Sinco I have seen in some cases, yes. That thing is pretty heavy but that can easily be solved with a about 10 LEGO blocks.
So i should just add 5c to this result. 52c, not bad, actually what i expected. We'll see when it gets here.
would love a new video how it can work with a 2080 Ti, I saw the reddit thread, but I am still not sure if it works perfect and how exactly...
Any help? I’m buying this setup except I’m going with Noctua 4 pin 120mm fans. Any idea how to plug them directly into the GPU like a stock cooler?
What keyboard would you recommend within 60 to 70 usd?
How did you manage to align the heat sink without bumping these spikes on the midplate? I got Morpheus II Core and when I try to place it the midplate spikes bump the heat sink and I have no good contact between the GPU die and the heat sink. Even I managed to chip the corner of the GPU die as apparently I applied excessive force trying to get the stuff installed....