Running Tubolito's for last year. Not one puncture yet. Noticeable difference, Only problem is they loose pressure and need topped up before most rides.
I swapped my inner tubes to latex last year and I got a noticeable difference in average speed. A bit of a pain to inflate them before every ride but I can live with that
I upgraded to Vittoria latex and gp5000's, they are very noticeably faster. 3 to 5 mph faster, and when you are coasting they lose speed slowly, saving energy that would have been wasted when accelerating back to speed. Plus the ride is almost plush. The only downside is that I have to be constantly vigilant for glass and road debris.
Great information! My method wasn't especially scientific, but I did a rolling test on a worn pair of Gatorskins and a new pair of GP5000 tires. I rolled down a hill (coasting) onto a flat length of trail, and coasted until the bike stopped. I did three runs on each set of tires. The differences: 20.47 mph vs 22.2 mph max speed and an average speed of 10.2 vs 12.03 mph. As much as practical, I kept everything the same. I started from the same spot, stayed in the hoods, ran the tires at the same pressure, both sets of tires were 25s, and performed all six runs on the same day, over the course of maybe 1.5 hours. It looks like the GP5000's are a little faster than the Gatorskins, confirming what I've seen online that the GP5000 tires have less rolling resistance in the lab.
@@discbrakefan Sarcasm, or not? I can't tell! My experience was Gatorskins are tougher. Gatorskin Hardshells are even tougher still -- they _never_ puncture -- but they do strip ~2 mph off my average speed vs Vittoria Rubino Pro or Conti race tyres. They have a pretty noticeable weight penalty uphill!
@@xchopp I commute on Hardshells all year round and love them, not punctured yet, they are a tad slower but that just means I have to work a bit harder . . . LOL
I went from the stock specialized tires (I forget which ones they were.) To continental untra sport. Then I went from ultra sport to Conti GP5000 with latex tubes. The difference between each upgrade was definitely noticeable. Tires and tubes are absolutely the first thing to change out when you buy a bike.
Yeah, I run Conti GP5000s. Went from the Mavic tyres that came with the Cosmic wheelset to the GP5000s ... what a difference. Totally transformed the bike. I forget which tubes I'm running now, but some good ones.
My bike came stock with Continental Ultra Sport 25mm, but I'm thinking about upgrading my tubes/tires. I seem have have hit a ceiling with my average MPH & top speed with the current setup. On several descents I ride, even at full tilt on the pedals, I can't break into the 40 MPH top speed range. I get close - 36 to 38 MPH, but never 40 or higher. On flats & climbs when I hammer on the pedals, the bike starts to feel like it's in mud. I think the Ultra Sports just have too much grip.
Incredible results. You’d never expect to see those differences. Though, having said that…I still think investing in proper, tight fitting Lycra is the biggest on bike performance boost I’ve ever experienced.
It's probably similar, the 50ml of sealant will be around 10g heavier than a 40g butyl tube? At least you know you'll finish the ride with tubeless because you won't puncture, and you won't have to clean your bike. Guess what I use :-)
Despite the lower weight and moment of inertia of TPU inner tubes, the superior rolling resistance of latex inner tubes makes them look like the best bet. And they are cheaper then TPU inner tubes. The downside of latex tubes are they lose air pressure faster than butyl and TPU tubes. A nice advantage of TPU inner tubes is they take up much less space than butyl and latex inner tubes, which makes them ideal as an spare inner tube for those who have small saddle bags to hold emergency gear.
I have been using latex tubes for last 6 months, I now reluctantly ride nothing less. The old butyl tubes I'll save for winter riding. Latex seems to make the tyres hum on the road, love it! Also swapped my mountain/ road bike to 26" latex tubes on slicks as well, not yet tested yet but I expect a decrease in effort! Best thing I done for all my bikes and my wattage! I have to confess GCN persuaded me to go this direction!
I agree, there's no reason not to run latex. They patch exactly like butyl tubes and the spare is smaller in your pocket. (Don't forget that old trashed latex tubes should be cut up to make patches). So you have to pump them up more, but we all top up our tyres every ride anyway.
I typically ride Vittoria or Continental. I am currently still using standard inner tubes. Not too bothered about going slightly faster, but saving energy is definitely of interest. The Orbea is a very very nice looking bike. My bike is a Giant aluminium from 2006, I am still happy enough with this bike for now.
Road bike: Gators(28)/Conti-race lite Tri bike: GP5000(25)/Vitt Latex Love the set up i may eventually switch latex on roadie but for now G2G. Good vid GCN Awesome comment section Yall have a great summer💪
Upgraded from the stock 25mm Vittoria Rubino with butyl innertubes to 30mm Conti 5000 S TL tubeless. It was noticeable whenI first upgraded but I really noticed it on the Global Bike Festival on slight downhill sections. Side by side, I could just roll away from most people.
I agree. It would be very interesting how much difference it would make with tubeless. That´s the first test which is really meaningful with these laboratory conditions. Please @GCNTech repeat it with tubeless and probably tubular too.
Not without also doing a chart fully packed at 10psi/0.69b increments from 45psi/3.1b to 105psi/7.23b, as so many people claim to be able to go low psi exclusively on tubeless (I, someone riding 28mm GP5Ks tubed at 40/45psi, call bs).
P Zeros with Tubolitos seems to be the best combo for me having played around with a few different set-ups, 5000s with Vittoria latex are a distant 2nd but still a huge step up from budget stuff.
for me, the benefits of tubeless outweigh everything else. been riding exclusively tubeless on all of my bikes for over a year now and not a single flat. i would assume that tubeless will be slower.
@@adrianc6534 same, since switching to tubeless, I’ve had to stop 3 times in 2 years… but they were pretty catastrophic half inch+ cuts. I used to flat at least once every other week. From everything I’ve seen, tubeless is pretty on par with latex tubes in regards to speed. Tubeless is faster on average roads and way faster on gravel because of the lower pressures, latex is faster on ultra smooth surfaces.
@@prestachuck2867 had my tubeless tyre unseat itself (correct pressure but a defect with the rim at the weld me thinks). Wouldn't hold pressure so tried to put in an inner tube instead. However I managed to pinch the inner whilst using tyre levers (wouldn't normally need to use levers but everything was so slippy with the sealant that we were forced to use them). I really like tubeless but that was a mare...
@@alolympic Every time I had flat tyre tubeless system worked, but I couldn't go back to the same pressure, it was necessary to fix the tyre and i had puncture in one tyre just after 300 km
Different experience to me. Been tubeless on road, gravel and MTB for 3 years. Would never go back to tubes. Have you tried plugs to repair bigger punctures?
I switched from WTB Riddler (tubeless) to Tufo Thundero (tubeless) on my gravel bike based on rolling resistance data. Didnt do an exact measurement but I noticed I was able to ride a few kilometers per hour faster than before on my favourite road segment.
Adding a tubeless setup with the same tire would be definitely very interesting. Also mentioning the downsides of the material would be nice. Getting to know that latex tubes loose pressure significantly faster than butyl tubes was a dealbreaker for me....
Well I finally bought some latex tubes. Alex & Ollie always recommended it just took a few videos for it to sink in how easy and cheap AND effective this upgrade is. Thanks for the tips
Tankx Alex good video I've been riding tubeless since 2016 but, ya never know I mite for health and safety reasons need to use inner tubes and after this video I think latex is the best choice.
just went from michelin country grip r to schwalbe g one speed . wanted a new bike , got one 😂😂😂😂 all I can recommend is ride 3000 miles with one type and when you switch ,you'll have the best expierence ever ❤❤❤
Latex tubes- Pros: Lightweight, substantially reduced rolling resistance, greater comfort. Cons: Significant loss of air overnight requiring pump-up daily. Prone to puncture. I switched to tubeless.
Not big deal for me since I pump up the tyres before each and every ride. I also have a positive experience in terms of puncture resistance - less flats using latex, some tests convirmed this (latex is often pushing the sharp object out of rhe tyre before any puncture of the tube occurs) they're just more sensitive during the installing process (thus the powder in the box) Rolling resistance is noticeable lower.
Latex isn't more prone to puncturing except possibly pinch flats. It's harder to install them properly and I've blown up a couple when they get caught between the bead and the rim, but in a year and a half I've never punctured with 25mm GP5000s.
@@themindgarage8938 I always had only pinch flats so that's maybe why I perceive them as more puncture resistant. I also read somewhere that latex is so flexible it often pushes the sharp object out itself. Installation - use talk powder. A lot. And non sharp edged tyre levers, I sandpapered mine (continental) and it works.
thanks guys !!! thanks to you i'm just gonna upgrade my tires to train for my 100km rides on my hardtail ! and me thinking the only way to enjoy those rides would be by buying a gravel bike ... 😅😅😅😅 much ❤ you guys !!!
Very interesting results. I've recently upgraded from the stock Michelin Dynamic Sport 25c that came with my Decathlon's Tryban 520 mostly due to an absolute lack of tracktion and almost the same feel of a riding with a steel tire... Due to a seller's mistake, I've ridden about 90km in a set of Vittoria's Rubino Pro Control 25c - which proved to be amazingly comfortable and fast tires. After the mistake has been addressed, I'm now riding a set of Vittoria Corsa Pro Control 28c, which improved a little further on the comfort and grip departments, but also a massive improvement in the looks department with that gorgeous tan sidewall... :D I'm now waiting for a set of deep carbon wheels to open and test the latex inner tubes... :D
I am also sailing in the same boat I have purchased Road bike having Michelin Dynamic sport tyres but not yet taken ride .Please suggest whether it can work and give me comfort in riding and improve mileage. I’m sure that I will test but before testing whether I could replace the tires or it will work.I am waiting for the suggestion.
@@shafiqsangeen7382 I strongly suggest that you give it a try and try to ride the Michelins - unless you want to sell them as new. They aren't terrible and useless tires. I've ridden mine for 4k kms, but I'm a fair weather rider, I don't ride if the asphalt is still wet - and when I encountered wet asphalt with these tires, I found they didn't had any traction lol
Recently just put on GP5000 with RideNow TPU inner tube on my stock Alloy wheelset, it is truly amazing. rolls really smoothly. Significant higher speed with same level of effort. SADLY my inner tube puncture on my first ride. It is really hard to fit tpu inner into tight tyres like the GP5000. Will try Latex tube after I used up my tpu ones.
Would be great if you did 1 or 2 tyres in the middle, like common conti 5ks or schwalbe pro one, to see how they fare vs premium tyre. And have a tubeless setup as well.
i've got campagnolo zonda wheels, continental gp5000 tyres... stands to reason that i tryto get the most out of the tubes, too. ordered a couple of vittoria ones.
Great video. It was a rainy day yesterday and I traded out my 40 mm types with butyl tubes for a TPU and 28mm continental grant prix's. So this helps me see what I might expect when the rain finally stops. A key question is how much is the tire/tube compare to wind resistance. I don't have a wind tunnel at home :)
That’s an immense saving of watts using latex. I have been using latex for No or years, I love the road riding feeling as compare to other two inner tubes
Given than drum testing only shows 1-2W difference for butyl vs latex, I believe the testing methodology using these rollers is grossly distorting the results. It would be worth talking with a proper expert like Josh Poertner of Silca for some insights, as he has a lot to say about rolling resistance and other marginal gains (hint: it is a hard subject to get).
@@123moof I m just a weekend rider, I used to use butyl but after I switch to latex I feel I could sprint faster than using butyl. The only thing I dislike latex is you need to pump every single time when you ride. It lost almost 30 lbs of air in 20 hrs.
Over 20 years ago I used to time trial on 19mm tyres and an aluminium Bianchi on pretty rough and worn out tarmac at a weekly meet. I changed to 23mm tyres and ran at lower pressure much to the amusement of my friends and instantly went faster. More comfort and was able to get the power down. Numbers are great but I'm glad I tried something different to the accepted expertise of the era.
High PSI increases oscillation from the road. The road vibrations have a bigger negative effect on performance than any effect from the high PSI. You’re better under inflating than over inflating.
I have gone to latex. They feel better at absorbing bumps. Don't know about speed/effort. BUT need a blemish free interface with tyre and rim tape. I have had 2 mock punctures just from inperfect rim tape and slight twist causing pinching. So super catefull fitting.
Thankyou GCN for this though. I got latex idea from Si. Tyres make the biggest difference on all bikes from racer to shopping /work bike. And puncture resistance.
Good video idea but unfortunately you’ve missed a big part of the advantage of latex and TPU: they allow for more tyre deflection! Put simply, a perfectly smooth roller really won’t show just how much faster they are, compared to riding on the real world super bumpy roads! On a smooth rollers surface friction is king but in the real world the tyres ability to deform over surface imperfections matters far more. Stick some rumble strips on your roller and watch the difference sky rocket!
That is correct, but roller tests like this and tests on Bicycle Rolling Resistance forums, still are good pointers. Because what is good on the roller, turns out to be also good on the pavement.
@@firesurfer Tried not as what you said. But yes it will lose air but not as fast as in a day u need to pump twice. Not a big deal to me, i’ll always pump up the air during every ride.
@@jeffroom Some newer latex tubes have graphite in them so they don't lose so much air. I like to keep my tires within 5 pounds. 10 pounds less is way too soft.
Smooth rollers take any sort of vibration losses out of the equation, and will falsely lead one to use the skinniest tires pumped to insane pressures. Sadly any sort of roller data is of limited value, and really for entertainment use only.
You might, but it is questionable if that would favour one tire more than another. If anything, the more expensive tire will be more supple and deal better with rough surface. The other day I saw a video with aero wheels tested v/s non aero and there you had changing weather, so while not perfect, this seems like a fair test.
@@demand61 I believe that relatively speaking it shows the correct winners, but with a super smooth surface and a wildly different contact patch I would not take the wattage numbers too seriously.
I bought some Vittoria tyres on mail order they were around £10 (on sale) and I bought about eight. I am well in favour of buying quality tyre and tube it's money well spent. I like buying the extra long valve barrels as it makes pumping with my track pump much easier. For my riding then wear resistance and puncture resistance are important criteria.
I wouldn't have thought it would be quite double as most of the rider weight is over the rear wheel but there will be an additional improvement by factoring in the front as well.
Wow that is a huge difference! Much more than i expected. I am starting to understand why people on my strava are achieving much higher avarage speeds with less or an equal amounts of watts. Most of these people weigh less then i do and have a slightly more expensive bike. Maybe that is much more important than i originally thought it would be.. Great video! I am using Conti 4 season tires with butyl innertube. When these are worn i might try the GP5000 see what that brings me.
kudos on the methodolgy. unfortunately, my only experiment/experience with latex was quite a disaster. In the 90s as a bike courier at night I installed the latex and headed out in the morning- it was a wet rainy day- I got 9 flats that day- that talc was useless wet and patching the leaks- well if it wasnt hard enough to patch it certainly was noticably lumpy ride afterwards. Nah- I cant risk being stranded out in the boonies where I like to ride nowadays- Im not afraid of a bit of extra effort, especially if it gets me home more reliably.
Can you try the tannus airless tires in a similar test? I feel like it would be the extreme end on wasting energy but I have no idea how bad it would be.
Wow, the results of this test were amazing. What an incredible, yet reasonably inexpensive way of upgrading one's bike. It would be very hard justifying slogging up a hill knowing that you could be saving 'X' watts by just replacing tyres and tubes. How about a d=segment on tyre pressure / tyre size / rolling resistance & comfort?
Tyres are the most important upgrade. I insisted my friend change out his no-brand tyres for a pair of Conti GP5000. He went from 1 km/h slower than me to 1 km/h faster than me.
Impressive results for such an affordable upgrade! I have also upgraded the tyres of my bikes. BUT if I need a power meter and a (special) smart trainer to do the measurements by my self the calculation looks completely different.
What makes latex inner tubes have lower rolling resistance? What if you put a light coating of silicone grease inside your tires to reduce the friction between the tire and inner tubes?
On my winter comutter bike I currently use the Schwalbe Marathon 28mm. Great in rain and so far not a single puncture. But in a few months I would like to try a proper fast tyre to experience less rolling resistance for myself. Any suggestions? Hutchinson Fusion 5, Schwalbe One, Continental 5000, Pirelli/Goodyear?
Last week I upgraded from 23c gatorskins to a 28c GP5000 in the back, and 25c gatorskin in front. I wasn't expecting much, but all 6 rides since have been faster by at least 1 mph.
That was my experience. I had medium grade tires on my bike then I upgraded them to the Continental and blew out my strava records all over the place. Generally rolling 2-3mph faster with the same effort.
Theoretically would you save more watts out on the road as then the front tyre's rolling resistance (even if it less than rear's) would come into play as well? Would the rougher surface of the road make rolling resistance more or less important? How about tyre width?
Have a gravel bike and want a setup which can swap quickly between gravel and road. Purchased 50mm deep carbon rims with cassette and rotar, just looking for a tubeless set of fast road tyres. At least can save a bit of money on these inner tubes.
I upgraded my bike from cheap, noname tyres and butyl innertubes to Gatorskins with latex innertubes - not only are the tyres actually round so the bike has stopped bouncing, I also increased my average speed by about 3km/h on my 10km commute... Well spent 60£!
The effect on rear tire is higher because more of your weight is sitting there. RR is proportional to the weight. And weight distribution on a bike might be around 70:30 or so for rear:front. So rr should be about twice as high on rear than on front. In the video rear was measured. If you save 45W there then you might safe another ~20W on the front additionally. That adds up to ~65W!
Great video, but what we actually want to see is the comparison between the fastest premium tire combination and a tubeless tire (the both options people are actually using, instead of the waterhoses from the eurobike 😅) Pzero race with latex inner tubes vs Pzero race TLR? 🙏🏼
@@BikeLife154 Just to add to this, latex is faster given a realistic amount of tyre sealant in the tubeless tyre. One can run the tubeless tyre dry and get amazing rolling resistance ;)
Yes, that's why it's so interesting like @Tobias Bouma mentioned, latex is faster with the correct amount of sealant in tubeless tires. But i'm just very curious if @GCN is going to make a video about it, as it won't be comercialy very good for pirelli and other tire manufactures (:
I think it would be helpful to repeat this test on an outdoor course. I think when both tires are factored in along with actual road surfaces, that the results will be more applicable to real-world riding. Tires and tubes definitely make a big difference.
Have you upgraded your tyres and inner tubes? Will you now after watching this video?
lol, I was just about to make the jump to tubeless! Though I guess the upgrade in tyres would still apply
Running Tubolito's for last year. Not one puncture yet. Noticeable difference, Only problem is they loose pressure and need topped up before most rides.
I swapped my inner tubes to latex last year and I got a noticeable difference in average speed. A bit of a pain to inflate them before every ride but I can live with that
I upgraded to Vittoria latex and gp5000's, they are very noticeably faster. 3 to 5 mph faster, and when you are coasting they lose speed slowly, saving energy that would have been wasted when accelerating back to speed. Plus the ride is almost plush. The only downside is that I have to be constantly vigilant for glass and road debris.
Updated to GP5000, then added some carbon rims and finally the RideNow TPU tubes, all fell well and fast.
Great information! My method wasn't especially scientific, but I did a rolling test on a worn pair of Gatorskins and a new pair of GP5000 tires. I rolled down a hill (coasting) onto a flat length of trail, and coasted until the bike stopped. I did three runs on each set of tires. The differences: 20.47 mph vs 22.2 mph max speed and an average speed of 10.2 vs 12.03 mph. As much as practical, I kept everything the same. I started from the same spot, stayed in the hoods, ran the tires at the same pressure, both sets of tires were 25s, and performed all six runs on the same day, over the course of maybe 1.5 hours. It looks like the GP5000's are a little faster than the Gatorskins, confirming what I've seen online that the GP5000 tires have less rolling resistance in the lab.
And I’ll bet you don’t get any more punctures on GP5000s, plus you’ll have way more grip especially in the wet
@@discbrakefan Sarcasm, or not? I can't tell! My experience was Gatorskins are tougher. Gatorskin Hardshells are even tougher still -- they _never_ puncture -- but they do strip ~2 mph off my average speed vs Vittoria Rubino Pro or Conti race tyres. They have a pretty noticeable weight penalty uphill!
Added bonus of your method is you don't have to spend hundreds on a smart trainer, or a power meter
@@discbrakefan Agreed. Poor grip in the wet is the reason I won't use Gatorskins any more. TLs or TRs almost eliminate punctures.
@@xchopp I commute on Hardshells all year round and love them, not punctured yet, they are a tad slower but that just means I have to work a bit harder . . . LOL
I went from the stock specialized tires (I forget which ones they were.) To continental untra sport. Then I went from ultra sport to Conti GP5000 with latex tubes. The difference between each upgrade was definitely noticeable. Tires and tubes are absolutely the first thing to change out when you buy a bike.
@@happydogg312 yeah, the tires that ship with the bike are almost always junk. Get yourself some good rubber.
Yeah, I run Conti GP5000s. Went from the Mavic tyres that came with the Cosmic wheelset to the GP5000s ... what a difference. Totally transformed the bike.
I forget which tubes I'm running now, but some good ones.
@@happydogg312 i swapped the stock ones w the continentals. HUGEEEEEE improvement!!!!!
My bike came stock with Continental Ultra Sport 25mm, but I'm thinking about upgrading my tubes/tires. I seem have have hit a ceiling with my average MPH & top speed with the current setup. On several descents I ride, even at full tilt on the pedals, I can't break into the 40 MPH top speed range. I get close - 36 to 38 MPH, but never 40 or higher. On flats & climbs when I hammer on the pedals, the bike starts to feel like it's in mud. I think the Ultra Sports just have too much grip.
What latex tubes did you get?
Upgraded from standard tyres and tubes my bike came with to vittoria latex tubes and vittoria corsas. It changed my life. 😂
Had the same experience with the vittorias a year ago, now i changed to tubeless conti gp5000str. Changed my life again!
Similar setup here as well. Completely agree!
It makes so much difference!
Wow! So, 54 watt savings with latex tubes and tyres?! I’m hitting up Amazon now for a faster ride. Definitely trying and thanks!
Incredible results. You’d never expect to see those differences. Though, having said that…I still think investing in proper, tight fitting Lycra is the biggest on bike performance boost I’ve ever experienced.
Great video. Very interesting it would be to test now a tubless setup and see if it is even better than the latex innertube setup 🤔
yes! my thoughts exactly!
Yes, that would be an interesting comparison Alain!
@@gcntech make it happen guys
Rolling resistance is a wash between the two. I hate fitting tubeless road tyres. I like latex
It's probably similar, the 50ml of sealant will be around 10g heavier than a 40g butyl tube? At least you know you'll finish the ride with tubeless because you won't puncture, and you won't have to clean your bike. Guess what I use :-)
Thank you so much! This was exactly the video i searched a few days agi but couldnt find a really good one!
That's great to hear!
Despite the lower weight and moment of inertia of TPU inner tubes, the superior rolling resistance of latex inner tubes makes them look like the best bet. And they are cheaper then TPU inner tubes. The downside of latex tubes are they lose air pressure faster than butyl and TPU tubes. A nice advantage of TPU inner tubes is they take up much less space than butyl and latex inner tubes, which makes them ideal as an spare inner tube for those who have small saddle bags to hold emergency gear.
I just went from regular tubes and gatorskin tires to tubolito TPU tubes and GP5000 tires and my bike felt like a brand new machine.
I have been using latex tubes for last 6 months, I now reluctantly ride nothing less. The old butyl tubes I'll save for winter riding. Latex seems to make the tyres hum on the road, love it! Also swapped my mountain/ road bike to 26" latex tubes on slicks as well, not yet tested yet but I expect a decrease in effort! Best thing I done for all my bikes and my wattage! I have to confess GCN persuaded me to go this direction!
I agree, there's no reason not to run latex. They patch exactly like butyl tubes and the spare is smaller in your pocket. (Don't forget that old trashed latex tubes should be cut up to make patches). So you have to pump them up more, but we all top up our tyres every ride anyway.
Same. Love the sound and feel of my gp5000 plus latex. I take a butyl spare tube with me though.
@@alanthompson9240 should take a Tubilito spare with you. Much lighter to carry
@@kconnnnn probably, smaller too
Nice to hear that we sometimes know what we're talking about! 😅
I typically ride Vittoria or Continental. I am currently still using standard inner tubes. Not too bothered about going slightly faster, but saving energy is definitely of interest.
The Orbea is a very very nice looking bike.
My bike is a Giant aluminium from 2006, I am still happy enough with this bike for now.
Try out latex tubes. You wouldn't think they'd make a big difference but they really, really do.
Going faster for the same effort = saving energy!
I went from gatorskins with butyl tubes to tubeless gp5000s tr tyres a few weeks ago, on the same rims, seen a saving of around 15-20W at 30kph
Road bike: Gators(28)/Conti-race lite
Tri bike: GP5000(25)/Vitt Latex
Love the set up i may eventually switch latex on roadie but for now G2G.
Good vid GCN
Awesome comment section
Yall have a great summer💪
Wow!!! My budget road bike, a Jamis Ventura, will certainly benefit from this. Can’t wait to try this
This was an excellent test. Thanks so much for doing all of the comparisons!
Great info and amazing difference in watts expended - thanks.
Great video. It would be cool to compare a road bike tire with a fatter tire to see the speed difference.
Upgraded from the stock 25mm Vittoria Rubino with butyl innertubes to 30mm Conti 5000 S TL tubeless. It was noticeable whenI first upgraded but I really noticed it on the Global Bike Festival on slight downhill sections. Side by side, I could just roll away from most people.
That intro was special! 👏👏👏
Awesome results 😮
Comparison to all inner tubes vs tubeless. Please😁 Also, this is a very useful information. Thanks alex
@@channul4887 not really, not like this with numbers and statistics...
That's an incredible amount of what savings from a Budget Tire to a race Tire. Out of honestly only figured a few Watts that's incredible! Thanks Alex
Adding a tubeless comparison would have been good?
Not possible if your wheels aren’t tubeless compatible….
@@patrickparisienne1917 Just add tubeless tape to standard wheels. It works just fine.
I agree. It would be very interesting how much difference it would make with tubeless. That´s the first test which is really meaningful with these laboratory conditions. Please @GCNTech repeat it with tubeless and probably tubular too.
Not without also doing a chart fully packed at 10psi/0.69b increments from 45psi/3.1b to 105psi/7.23b, as so many people claim to be able to go low psi exclusively on tubeless (I, someone riding 28mm GP5Ks tubed at 40/45psi, call bs).
Also would have like to seen pressures
P Zeros with Tubolitos seems to be the best combo for me having played around with a few different set-ups, 5000s with Vittoria latex are a distant 2nd but still a huge step up from budget stuff.
Have the same setup on my tarmac sl6, great combo
Would love to see this done with tubeless and with different tyre widths. Like 25, 28, 32 or something.
for me, the benefits of tubeless outweigh everything else. been riding exclusively tubeless on all of my bikes for over a year now and not a single flat. i would assume that tubeless will be slower.
Don't think it would make much difference on the rollers. Tubeless and wider tyres are better when the road is rougher right.
@@adrianc6534 same, since switching to tubeless, I’ve had to stop 3 times in 2 years… but they were pretty catastrophic half inch+ cuts. I used to flat at least once every other week. From everything I’ve seen, tubeless is pretty on par with latex tubes in regards to speed. Tubeless is faster on average roads and way faster on gravel because of the lower pressures, latex is faster on ultra smooth surfaces.
@@cokebottles6919 1/2” cut in a tubeless tire = bike and rider covered in gloppy latex sealant. Bummer.
@@prestachuck2867 had my tubeless tyre unseat itself (correct pressure but a defect with the rim at the weld me thinks). Wouldn't hold pressure so tried to put in an inner tube instead. However I managed to pinch the inner whilst using tyre levers (wouldn't normally need to use levers but everything was so slippy with the sealant that we were forced to use them). I really like tubeless but that was a mare...
My best upgrade 2 years ago was tubeless 38s. Best upgrade this year was putting tubes in them.
the same here
Really? Why?
@@alolympic Every time I had flat tyre tubeless system worked, but I couldn't go back to the same pressure, it was necessary to fix the tyre and i had puncture in one tyre just after 300 km
and the process to fit the tyre to the ring with tubeless tyres is really annoying, so bottom line : more expensive , more effort, less durability
Different experience to me. Been tubeless on road, gravel and MTB for 3 years. Would never go back to tubes. Have you tried plugs to repair bigger punctures?
I switched from WTB Riddler (tubeless) to Tufo Thundero (tubeless) on my gravel bike based on rolling resistance data. Didnt do an exact measurement but I noticed I was able to ride a few kilometers per hour faster than before on my favourite road segment.
Nice to see that inner tube upgrades are worth it for cheap tyres too.
What about Tubless setup with say a standard volume of sealant in it?!!!
So many want to see this experiment with tubeless! We'll have to make it happen!
@@gcntech Please do, thanks!
Adding a tubeless setup with the same tire would be definitely very interesting. Also mentioning the downsides of the material would be nice. Getting to know that latex tubes loose pressure significantly faster than butyl tubes was a dealbreaker for me....
Latex is pretty much same as tubeless. With less hassle.
If you’re worried about latex losing pressure, wait till you try tubeless 😅
Well I finally bought some latex tubes. Alex & Ollie always recommended it just took a few videos for it to sink in how easy and cheap AND effective this upgrade is.
Thanks for the tips
Nice one! Glad we could help
Tankx Alex good video I've been riding tubeless since 2016 but, ya never know I mite for health and safety reasons need to use inner tubes and after this video I think latex is the best choice.
just went from michelin country grip r to schwalbe g one speed .
wanted a new bike , got one 😂😂😂😂
all I can recommend is ride 3000 miles with one type and when you switch ,you'll have the best expierence ever ❤❤❤
Latex tubes- Pros: Lightweight, substantially reduced rolling resistance, greater comfort. Cons: Significant loss of air overnight requiring pump-up daily. Prone to puncture. I switched to tubeless.
Dang they lose pressure? Why is everyone hiding this fact?
Nitrogen should solve it, but not accessible
Not big deal for me since I pump up the tyres before each and every ride. I also have a positive experience in terms of puncture resistance - less flats using latex, some tests convirmed this (latex is often pushing the sharp object out of rhe tyre before any puncture of the tube occurs) they're just more sensitive during the installing process (thus the powder in the box) Rolling resistance is noticeable lower.
Latex isn't more prone to puncturing except possibly pinch flats. It's harder to install them properly and I've blown up a couple when they get caught between the bead and the rim, but in a year and a half I've never punctured with 25mm GP5000s.
@@themindgarage8938 I always had only pinch flats so that's maybe why I perceive them as more puncture resistant. I also read somewhere that latex is so flexible it often pushes the sharp object out itself. Installation - use talk powder. A lot. And non sharp edged tyre levers, I sandpapered mine (continental) and it works.
Finally a test from GCN where variables are held to a minimum!! Well done!
Man the montage music in this one is brutal. But the content is good.
Very help full.
Keep the inexpensive-but-useful-upgrade info coming!
thanks guys !!! thanks to you i'm just gonna upgrade my tires to train for my 100km rides on my hardtail ! and me thinking the only way to enjoy those rides would be by buying a gravel bike ... 😅😅😅😅 much ❤ you guys !!!
Upgraded to ridenow tubes, about the most cost effective upgrade to shed weight, almost on par with latex
Great information,thank you.
Very interesting results. I've recently upgraded from the stock Michelin Dynamic Sport 25c that came with my Decathlon's Tryban 520 mostly due to an absolute lack of tracktion and almost the same feel of a riding with a steel tire...
Due to a seller's mistake, I've ridden about 90km in a set of Vittoria's Rubino Pro Control 25c - which proved to be amazingly comfortable and fast tires. After the mistake has been addressed, I'm now riding a set of Vittoria Corsa Pro Control 28c, which improved a little further on the comfort and grip departments, but also a massive improvement in the looks department with that gorgeous tan sidewall... :D
I'm now waiting for a set of deep carbon wheels to open and test the latex inner tubes... :D
I am also sailing in the same boat I have purchased Road bike having Michelin Dynamic sport tyres but not yet taken ride .Please suggest whether it can work and give me comfort in riding and improve mileage. I’m sure that I will test but before testing whether I could replace the tires or it will work.I am waiting for the suggestion.
@@shafiqsangeen7382 I strongly suggest that you give it a try and try to ride the Michelins - unless you want to sell them as new. They aren't terrible and useless tires. I've ridden mine for 4k kms, but I'm a fair weather rider, I don't ride if the asphalt is still wet - and when I encountered wet asphalt with these tires, I found they didn't had any traction lol
Recently just put on GP5000 with RideNow TPU inner tube on my stock Alloy wheelset, it is truly amazing. rolls really smoothly. Significant higher speed with same level of effort. SADLY my inner tube puncture on my first ride. It is really hard to fit tpu inner into tight tyres like the GP5000. Will try Latex tube after I used up my tpu ones.
Would be great if you did 1 or 2 tyres in the middle, like common conti 5ks or schwalbe pro one, to see how they fare vs premium tyre. And have a tubeless setup as well.
i've got campagnolo zonda wheels, continental gp5000 tyres... stands to reason that i tryto get the most out of the tubes, too. ordered a couple of vittoria ones.
Great video. It was a rainy day yesterday and I traded out my 40 mm types with butyl tubes for a TPU and 28mm continental grant prix's. So this helps me see what I might expect when the rain finally stops. A key question is how much is the tire/tube compare to wind resistance. I don't have a wind tunnel at home :)
Nice experiment!
People talk about rolling resistance and I think ' yeah ok' but put like this, it's ' wow' I had no idea it would be this different!
That’s an immense saving of watts using latex. I have been using latex for No or years, I love the road riding feeling as compare to other two inner tubes
Given than drum testing only shows 1-2W difference for butyl vs latex, I believe the testing methodology using these rollers is grossly distorting the results. It would be worth talking with a proper expert like Josh Poertner of Silca for some insights, as he has a lot to say about rolling resistance and other marginal gains (hint: it is a hard subject to get).
@@123moof I m just a weekend rider, I used to use butyl but after I switch to latex I feel I could sprint faster than using butyl. The only thing I dislike latex is you need to pump every single time when you ride. It lost almost 30 lbs of air in 20 hrs.
Great comparison. Good work my man. I'm surprised by the difference made by the inner tube. ..but why no tubeless setup?
Great vid guys 👍🚴
How about the good old trick of powdering my butyl (or even latex) tubes with talc?
Pergect content. Keep going, GCN
Tnx, I'm buying new tyres as my first upgrade to my road bike.
Over 20 years ago I used to time trial on 19mm tyres and an aluminium Bianchi on pretty rough and worn out tarmac at a weekly meet. I changed to 23mm tyres and ran at lower pressure much to the amusement of my friends and instantly went faster. More comfort and was able to get the power down. Numbers are great but I'm glad I tried something different to the accepted expertise of the era.
High PSI increases oscillation from the road. The road vibrations have a bigger negative effect on performance than any effect from the high PSI. You’re better under inflating than over inflating.
this video is a gem !
Great experiment, dittoes on future premium tire + tube vs premium tubeless test, it would be epic!
I have gone to latex. They feel better at absorbing bumps. Don't know about speed/effort.
BUT need a blemish free interface with tyre and rim tape. I have had 2 mock punctures just from inperfect rim tape and slight twist causing pinching. So super catefull fitting.
Thankyou GCN for this though. I got latex idea from Si. Tyres make the biggest difference on all bikes from racer to shopping /work bike. And puncture resistance.
Definitely worth spending on latex innertubes and supple quality tyres like turbo cotton. Or to top tubeless tyres, they're great too nowadays
Good video idea but unfortunately you’ve missed a big part of the advantage of latex and TPU: they allow for more tyre deflection!
Put simply, a perfectly smooth roller really won’t show just how much faster they are, compared to riding on the real world super bumpy roads! On a smooth rollers surface friction is king but in the real world the tyres ability to deform over surface imperfections matters far more.
Stick some rumble strips on your roller and watch the difference sky rocket!
That is correct, but roller tests like this and tests on Bicycle Rolling Resistance forums, still are good pointers. Because what is good on the roller, turns out to be also good on the pavement.
I didn’t know latex was that vast of an improvement. Will order a set and give them a try
Go ahead and try them. I bet you will quickly give them up. They need to be pumped up much more. Sometimes I noticed it twice a day.
@@firesurfer Pure BS.
@@jeffroom Go ahead and try.
@@firesurfer Tried not as what you said. But yes it will lose air but not as fast as in a day u need to pump twice. Not a big deal to me, i’ll always pump up the air during every ride.
@@jeffroom Some newer latex tubes have graphite in them so they don't lose so much air. I like to keep my tires within 5 pounds. 10 pounds less is way too soft.
Wouldn't you get potentially different results during outdoors on asphalt due to the surface difference?
And different tires have different aero drag qualities
Smooth rollers take any sort of vibration losses out of the equation, and will falsely lead one to use the skinniest tires pumped to insane pressures. Sadly any sort of roller data is of limited value, and really for entertainment use only.
You might, but it is questionable if that would favour one tire more than another. If anything, the more expensive tire will be more supple and deal better with rough surface.
The other day I saw a video with aero wheels tested v/s non aero and there you had changing weather, so while not perfect, this seems like a fair test.
@@demand61 I believe that relatively speaking it shows the correct winners, but with a super smooth surface and a wildly different contact patch I would not take the wattage numbers too seriously.
That's the point of the rollers, they remove the variables. Perfect test. There's plenty of other tests talking about aero etc.
I bought some Vittoria tyres on mail order they were around £10 (on sale) and I bought about eight. I am well in favour of buying quality tyre and tube it's money well spent. I like buying the extra long valve barrels as it makes pumping with my track pump much easier.
For my riding then wear resistance and puncture resistance are important criteria.
Would love to see the comparison to a tubeless set up
Great comparison
Hope you found it useful
And where are we at if we go tubless, in the past you said tubless is usually a bit worse than with latex, any insights @gcn tech ?
Good job and in line with tests done by other sources. Will do my own tests on my Kickr-Core... Oh, wait... 🙃
For me the biggest diff is the feel.. I always ride latex.. they just feel so much smoother than butyl. Also less punctures.
What thé différence with tubless tyre ?
You were only rolling on one wheel, would the power savings therefore be doubled on the road - on two rolling wheels?
I wouldn't have thought it would be quite double as most of the rider weight is over the rear wheel but there will be an additional improvement by factoring in the front as well.
@@isthatujeebus 👆This!
Wow that is a huge difference! Much more than i expected. I am starting to understand why people on my strava are achieving much higher avarage speeds with less or an equal amounts of watts. Most of these people weigh less then i do and have a slightly more expensive bike. Maybe that is much more important than i originally thought it would be.. Great video! I am using Conti 4 season tires with butyl innertube. When these are worn i might try the GP5000 see what that brings me.
Hi. Did you end up changing your Continental tires from 4-season to GP5000? If yes, did you see any difference? I'm debating if I should do the same.
kudos on the methodolgy. unfortunately, my only experiment/experience with latex was quite a disaster. In the 90s as a bike courier at night I installed the latex and headed out in the morning- it was a wet rainy day- I got 9 flats that day- that talc was useless wet and patching the leaks- well if it wasnt hard enough to patch it certainly was noticably lumpy ride afterwards. Nah- I cant risk being stranded out in the boonies where I like to ride nowadays- Im not afraid of a bit of extra effort, especially if it gets me home more reliably.
Great to see that a smart trainer can generate tangible results for these components. Very good set of tests!
Thanks Bill!
I’m definitely going to get new tires and tubes for my next race
Can you try the tannus airless tires in a similar test? I feel like it would be the extreme end on wasting energy but I have no idea how bad it would be.
Nice.
Can you do a comparison between a premium tube/tire and tubeless tire?
Wow, the results of this test were amazing. What an incredible, yet reasonably inexpensive way of upgrading one's bike. It would be very hard justifying slogging up a hill knowing that you could be saving 'X' watts by just replacing tyres and tubes.
How about a d=segment on tyre pressure / tyre size / rolling resistance & comfort?
Tyres are the most important upgrade. I insisted my friend change out his no-brand tyres for a pair of Conti GP5000. He went from 1 km/h slower than me to 1 km/h faster than me.
Impressive results for such an affordable upgrade! I have also upgraded the tyres of my bikes. BUT if I need a power meter and a (special) smart trainer to do the measurements by my self the calculation looks completely different.
Thought about changing to tpu, but i heard its bad with rim brakes cause of the heat. So now i dont know
please make a video comparing tire models performance and price !! that would be truly valuable.. and very sponsorable for you
Great content.
What makes latex inner tubes have lower rolling resistance?
What if you put a light coating of silicone grease inside your tires to reduce the friction between the tire and inner tubes?
I’m about to do some tlc in my buddy’s bike. It has stock crap tyres on it. I have a used but good gp4000 in my garage. Should I put it front or rear?
On my winter comutter bike I currently use the Schwalbe Marathon 28mm. Great in rain and so far not a single puncture. But in a few months I would like to try a proper fast tyre to experience less rolling resistance for myself. Any suggestions?
Hutchinson Fusion 5, Schwalbe One, Continental 5000, Pirelli/Goodyear?
Last week I upgraded from 23c gatorskins to a 28c GP5000 in the back, and 25c gatorskin in front. I wasn't expecting much, but all 6 rides since have been faster by at least 1 mph.
I would have never guessed it was that big of a difference!
That was my experience. I had medium grade tires on my bike then I upgraded them to the Continental and blew out my strava records all over the place. Generally rolling 2-3mph faster with the same effort.
I put Continentals on my 1spd and now it is crazy responsive. I did have to get used to it squeaking like new shoes....
Its funny when i tell people i use latex tubes they look at me like im still using a beeper lmao
Be nice to test tubeless as well. Latex tubes - Wow!
i put gp5000s on mine and it was a nice upgrade vs the old wire bead contis
Theoretically would you save more watts out on the road as then the front tyre's rolling resistance (even if it less than rear's) would come into play as well? Would the rougher surface of the road make rolling resistance more or less important? How about tyre width?
Have a gravel bike and want a setup which can swap quickly between gravel and road. Purchased 50mm deep carbon rims with cassette and rotar, just looking for a tubeless set of fast road tyres. At least can save a bit of money on these inner tubes.
I upgraded my bike from cheap, noname tyres and butyl innertubes to Gatorskins with latex innertubes - not only are the tyres actually round so the bike has stopped bouncing, I also increased my average speed by about 3km/h on my 10km commute... Well spent 60£!
Does the front or rear tire more greatly affect rr or is it same?
The effect on rear tire is higher because more of your weight is sitting there. RR is proportional to the weight. And weight distribution on a bike might be around 70:30 or so for rear:front. So rr should be about twice as high on rear than on front.
In the video rear was measured. If you save 45W there then you might safe another ~20W on the front additionally. That adds up to ~65W!
00:05 damn smoothhhh 🤣
Wow... that's my next upgrade settled on then.
Great video, but what we actually want to see is the comparison between the fastest premium tire combination and a tubeless tire (the both options people are actually using, instead of the waterhoses from the eurobike 😅) Pzero race with latex inner tubes vs Pzero race TLR? 🙏🏼
Latex is faster
I'd be very keen to see that test too.
@@BikeLife154 Just to add to this, latex is faster given a realistic amount of tyre sealant in the tubeless tyre. One can run the tubeless tyre dry and get amazing rolling resistance ;)
Yes, that's why it's so interesting like @Tobias Bouma mentioned, latex is faster with the correct amount of sealant in tubeless tires. But i'm just very curious if @GCN is going to make a video about it, as it won't be comercialy very good for pirelli and other tire manufactures (:
We've certainly noted this after all the requests in the comments!
I think it would be helpful to repeat this test on an outdoor course. I think when both tires are factored in along with actual road surfaces, that the results will be more applicable to real-world riding. Tires and tubes definitely make a big difference.
Also, the difference in resistance on real world road surfaces will probably be even greater. Premium tyres are optimized for roads after all...