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Cheap Wheel, Expensive Tyre Vs Cheap Tyre, Expensive Wheel!?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.พ. 2023
- We've tested a set of cheap wheels with expensive tires against an expensive wheelset & cheap tires to find out which is the fastest & to see which could be the best upgrade for your bike! Which will you make? 🤔
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What's the best upgrade you've ever made to your bike? Let us know in the comments! 👇
Getting hydro disc brakes, so I can go slower faster .. 🙂
Changed the rider 🤣
in climb testing, there may be a different result
Chinese carbon wheels with old stock GP4000s.
Changing tyres from Giant-Crosscut AT1-38mm to Pirelli gravel-h 40mm made me happy (on my gravel bike). So I guess I did the right thing
The real shocker is that the Dura Ace wheels were only 7 seconds faster than the cheap ones when both were fitted with the P Zeros.
IF they'd run these at 300W avg, the difference would be much much bigger due to increased aerodynamic input. Most likely they've chosen 200W avg as a benchmark of "regular noncompetitive cyclist power output for an extended period of time"
Not really worth it for the cost that is for sure.
@@truthseeker8483 look great though 😊😊😊
@@jamesbull9879 They do...but then without my wallet would look better...
@TRUTH SEEKER the sound and the look are totally worth it. 😀 The speed, not worth it.
Thank you for putting in that third test. To me, it really does go to show how for professional racers, this matters. But for the rest of us, seven seconds on a 31 minute ride versus £1500 worth of wheels, just isn’t worth it. 7 seconds is 0.4%.
Professional racers are also going faster and harder so this test won't even reflect what they experience. They probably see much bigger gains from the wheels due to aero being so much more important when you increase the speed.
@@christoferstromberg6605 Now imagine 35mm deep super light wheels vs those deep sections and I can't believe there would be any difference..
If you also consider spending potentially huge sums of money on expensive carbon components Vs going on a diet and loosing weight the saving is enormous, that’s on your wallet!!
But deep wheels look so cool! They are worth the investment!
Exactly, but you have to add if you have expensive wheels and tires you have bragging rights at coffee shop 😊
Ollie: can I get some beeps?
Alex: best I can do is boops, mate
The best "upgrade" I've made on my bike is, honestly, the crankset: I replaced the road 34/50 with a GRX 30/46, and am much happier. I'm not a particularly fast rider, and the 30/46 is fast enough for my needs, but I do like to ride up big hills while carrying things, and having the lower gears is a great way to not injure myself.
Thanks for idea mate 🤔
Same here; along with 165 cranks :)
what a great idea! I just realized I never go down to the "hardest" gear so Maybe gaining some lower end would be preferable.
had that but as I got better I felt the need to somewhat bigger gear, so I have now the 48/31 :))
I did the opposite change, still have 11/36 for every mountain.
Another great video balancing tech and banter esp when Alex says ‘stay there I’ll come to you’ and then laughs as Ollie struggles with his creaky bike.
3 tests were done:
Cheap wheels with expensive tyres;
Expensive wheels with cheap tyres;; &
Expensive wheels with expensive tyres.
For the sake of completeness, I would have liked to have seen cheap wheels with cheap tyres tested to cover all types.
why? cheap wheels cheap tyres = shit ride . obviously.
have you ever been on a bike
That combo would have been over 50 seconds 😆😆😆
I agree. Not everybody is pro and spends massive amount of money on bike parts. And plus many beginners are running exactly the setup that wasn't tested, cheap wheels and cheap tires.
That was a funny omission...
@@Noneofyourbusiness-rq9jq
"Why?"
Pretty obvious to the many that have liked my comment. For your benefit, testing should cover all the 4 variables/parameters to properly determine the speed differential and safety of each variable/parameter to better inform the audience when making their decision on what to buy.
"Cheap wheels cheap tyres = shit ride. obviously"
True, but not everyone can afford expensive wheels and expensive tyres.
Maybe you were lucky to have had rich parents when you got your first bike. Most don't.
People new to cycling often start out with a cheap bike fitted with cheap wheels and cheap tyres. People watching GCN's videos are not just experienced cyclists, but also beginners.
"Have you ever been on a bike?"
What a stupid, sarcastic and provocative question! I'm not going to stoop to that level!
The restrained look Ollie gave to the lady who opened the car door in his path.
8:22
Miles away. He wasn't looking at her face.
don't matter if the door opens or not. ollie shouldn't have been that close to a parked car. you gotta assume all doors are gonna potentially open up on you. there is no risk riding a couple of feet further away.
I can speak from experience the difference that good tires can make. I switched from Schwalbe Marathons (35c) to Continental GP5000 (28c) a couple of months ago with everything else being equal (same wheels, butyl tubes, etc). Obviously there was a huge change in weight as well as everything else (a set of Marathons at 35c are nearly 800g heavier than GP5000s at 28c) but the rolling resistance is also considerably lower. My average speed has increased by approximately 2-3km/h (from 28-29 km/h typical on the Marathons to 30-32km/h typical on the GP5000s), and while I don't have a power meter I can say just from 'feel' that I haven't increased my exertion to get that improvement. My current bike is a bit of a tank with a heavy aluminum hybrid frame and fairly cheapo aluminum shallow section wheels, so I'm very interested to see what improvements I'll get when I build up my new titanium bike in the spring with deep section wheels using the same GP5000s. But definitely, if you can't afford any other upgrades, a good set of tires (GP5000s are awesome - fast, light, and reasonably durable) will make a great improvement all by themselves.
Many people seem to like the GP5000. That’s great. I hope they continue to.
I just can’t stand how they look. I find the tread pattern ugly, so I won’t have them. ;)
I'm more of a Vittoria Corsa guy
Did that swap few years ago from 32 marathons to 28 GP5000 and the ride feel was instantly way better...maybe faster but the feel on the bike was different...
What this shows though is you got 7sec improvement for £2000 wheels as the others would be included with the bike. 🤪
Sweet test; have always felt hesitant to shell out heaps on wheels so will definitely keep getting premium tyres/tubes. Thanks Team!
I have to say I generally haven’t freaked out about tires but recently have tried Pirelli and they’re amazing.
Which ones? P Zero? I've recently been considering 25c but bought some Conti 5000's 4 - 5 months ago and can't really justify another set of premium/semi premium tyres.
Pirelli are making some great tyres at the moment, both road and gravel
Contis or Pirellis? What feels better?
I remember thinking that tires were tires, but I always thought my watts were a bit high for how fast I was going. Then I put Gp5000s on my bike I realized "oh... this difference is WILD!" I was a km/h faster for sure, and a smoother ride too. That's now my recommendation to friends who are trying to get the most out of a bike on a moderate or limited budget.
This backs up my experience really. I went from low end ally wheels to high end aero wheels, also changed to gp5000 s tr. The difference in speed was nothing at all and your 30s in 32 minutes highlights that. Its like one extra traffic light on your ride per hour.
Yeah that leapt out at me as well. Spend 2 grand to save 30 seconds over 30 minutes. Sure if you're a dedicated racer, but for anyone else and everyday use. I couldn't justify that.
Agreed, instead of working so much to buy them, just ride more! Emperor's new clothes
Yeah you'd expect it to wipe a couple minutes off, but its such marginal gains for a whole lot of money.
Differences would be much bigger if it was a higher level of effort and speed from Ollie, 200w wouldn’t even be zone 2 for him. I suspect if he re-did the test at 300w, which is the sort of level a reasonable club rider might do in a club time trial, the margins would be much more noticeable. For the average rider at a steady pace most upgrades make little real world speed difference. However if they make the bike feel nicer, look nicer and make you happier then I’m all for it.
@@huntos83 300W for 30 mins is not something I've ever been capable of. I doubt I'm alone there.
oh great! I just came home with some fancy wheels before I watched this video. Fortunately, I bought these pre-owned Mavic Ksyrium at a bargain price, I hope.
Excellent comparison, very informative results. Ollie and Alex are GCN's premier team of presenters.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Ollie and Alex will be happy 😉
I still don’t think they like each other 😂😂😂
I've been riding tubeless since 2016. The best wheel tyre combination I ride on when it's snot winter, Zipp 303firecrest with Continental 28mm GP5000 Str @ 53psi front 56psi rear tyre. On a side note, the "Tan" side walls on Conti GP5K Str tyres are painted on not the underlying rubber like on other brands.
Nothing like a snot winter 😌
This test backs up what I feel on my '88 Peugeot. I built the bike with period correct parts, but I ride on new Vittoria Corsa tires. Although the hard braking and climbing feel very much like a 35 year old bike, the cornering ability doesn't feel any worse than my 2019 Giant. The tires are pretty affordable compared to other upgrades and have made the bike really fun despite its age.
Nice. If the Peugeot is period should it have either MAVIC MA 40 box rims or Open Pro semi-aero rims? Could do both right?
My 36h straight gauge spokes MAVIC Open SUP CD rims were the definition of stiff 25 years ago. Still holding true to this day.
@@ralphc1405 That’s a part I’m still working on. My Peugeot is a Bordeaux model, so it wasn’t top of the line. It has Rigida 36H wheels. The top of the line Peugeots for my year would be either Mavic MA 40 or Mavic GP4 tubular. The Wolber Alpine was their budget racing wheel on Ultegra-equipped bikes.
Interesting test - nice one guys. Did wonder though how much was down to the tyre and how much was the latex tube?
super important are these latex tubes, for me this is magic for the price they cost. More comfort, more grip, faster and less punctures. i just cant use butyl tubes anymore
Very nice. One thing though is that for me those 'cheap' wheels already cost more than my entire bike, unfortunately. I wonder if there's a bigger difference between real cheap wheels and middle level ones.
I found this a really mature informative video, thanks-i realise the difficulties involved but it’s was nice to see a non sponsored video in which no one product was clearly favoured and it would be nice to see more like this. But in the meantime thanks for all the free content
Excellent video as always. Really not worth upgrading to £2k wheels if you are not racing. I’ve just upgraded my tyres to the GP5000 s TR and really noticed the difference over my stock Vitoria tyres.
wheel upgrades are worth it, but there is a ceiling to the value of how much benefit we gain. the stiffness, for example, is a big factor when going from cheapo alloy wheels, up to good alloy wheels, or up to decent carbon wheels. you don't gotta spend a ton of money. there are plenty of really good, more budget options. the most expensive wheels yield best benefits for the pros. but thats not to say we can't reap the benefits from good wheels. they just don't have to be the best/most expensive ones.
Quite surprised. The expensive wheels don’t mind make a huge difference. Good news! As a side note, there are manufacturers who make excellent tyres that are decent price
if you are into racing, sure buy expensive tires, but to commute daily i suggest the not so cheap but robust type, which will last way longer than the expensive ones
So I was right when I, at 72, bought Hunt Aero Race alloy wheels and shod them in Pirelli tires. In fact, I'm happier if it means I spend a few more seconds on my rides.
Like this overall, but of course still some other comparisons would be interesting. As I've seen some other comments mention, I'd be curious trying the latex tubes with the cheap tires to see what difference those made. Wouldn't help with the grip much but could help with rolling resistance on the climb and flat sections. And also something more like what I have for my setup: $500-ish Chinese deep carbon wheels like Elite or Ican (I have 60mm Elites that have been great over a couple seasons) combined with a low/mid-priced folding tire (Michelin Pro4 or even Conti Ultra Sport 3) with latex tubes. That gets you around the $600 mark which is still much closer to the cheaper side than the expensive one, while likely giving you 90+% of the performance increase of the expensive option.
"One thing is for certain, both sets of wheels, regardless of price point, are equally capable of giving you access to roads like this...being able to ride somewhere like this, that's what cycling is all about!" 4:08
I always ride with good quality rubber! Safety is important. In both applications of rubber :)
Michelin condoms work well
@3:38 Ollie said the wheels flex while sprinting would get brake rub. Ollie, you're on a disc brake bike.
Thanks GCN. One of the most informative shows
Really good to know, thanks for the great video!
Hi GCN Tech, a wheelset buyers guide would be a great video to inform what you need to know about the compatibility with your bike set up. Thanks
best upgrade I think was latex inner tubes.
Would also have liked to see data for cheap wheel with cheap tyre and expensive wheel with expensive tyre.
They presented data for premium wheel with premium tire and the benefit was pretty small…
Before even the video started I knew it would be the tires. I've got premium race tires . Top of the line with 36 spokes wheels of early 2010 decade
ah yes I remember handbuilts! Still using my 36h MAVIC Open SUP CD rims. Had them made 2x instead of 3x. Been thru hell and still run true after 25+ years but yes they are archaic and heavy
@@ralphc1405 they are built to last till the grandchildren rides them for sure
nice test. the fact that the difference of 7 seconds between wheels with the same tire showed up is consistent with what we've seen. now, if the test would have been 2 hours on a flat terrain riding at 250W, that difference would be bigger by good minutes. Deep wheels shine at speeds of about 40+ kph and if you usually ride at 25, then it doesn't make sense to go deep, you might as well go for better quality, lighter wheels as they allow you to get back to speed faster after a sharp corner and increase response.
Never have I heard anyone complaining for extra grip on the bike or extra speed due to lower rolling resistance. So yeah, get premium tires and a better saddle as your first upgrades on the bike
It may not have been faster, (although I'm sure it was) but when I upgraded my cheap wheels to more expensive ones the ride quality and handling improved significantly. It's not all about speed.
Coming from a performance car perspective, I knew the tires themselves would make a massive difference due to traction, grip and feel. Those all translate to more confidence to go faster while turning and to understand the limits of your grip and the road you're riding on. A tire acts like a tactile finger for a rider, constantly transmitting characteristics.
Thanks guys for the test. So for someone on a budget the best option is great tyres and not costly wheels.
Great test, but in my world, I upgraded my wheels to something slightly better than the ones that came on my old Trek 1.5. (Ones Ollie called - entry level in a previous video. Sorry Ollie, my old wheels were entry level). Running the same tyres and tubes, I noticed a big difference. I then popped some GP5000’s on with latex tubes - a huge difference! I spent about £250 in total and my bike is transformed. I’m not sure a Cheap Trek from 2007 will be transformed any more by putting wheels that cost 4x the cost I paid for the entire bike though, bit if you send me a set of carbon, rim brake wheels, I’ll test it for you! 😉 BTW putting a full Ultegra group set on to upgrade the Tiagra, Sora mix was a huge change too. Saved kilos and improved everything!
One has to say, for weekend warriors, the differences in time are negligeable. But in feel, not. A better tire and stiffer wheels feel so much safer and racier in corners. Sadly in flat areas, you have to search for corners, but nonetheless that's where I enjoy a good wheel/tire combo the most.
How do you go about figuring out if a tire is any good? Like, How do I know if what I got by default on my mid range bike is any good or whether it would be a good idea to upgrade? And if I decide to upgrade, what do I look for when shopping tires? I don't feel like just buying whatever has the highest price tag, I'd like to know what I am actually looking for.
I had affordable aluminum Fulcrum 4 series wheels with cheaper Continental Sport tires. When I switched to GP 5000s I noticed a bigger difference in speed and grip than when I finally upgraded to carbon aero wheels that are lighter than my old Fulcrums. Both are improvements, but I am convinced the tires are the more economical upgrade, and it helps build rider confidence in those turns. You learn to push harder, at least mentally.
Great to hear from someone that has given this a try! Would you recommend tyre upgrade first? Did you see a big jump in speed on your rides with new tyres? 👀
Tire changes are definitely the most noticeable of the two.
The last new bike I got came with Donnelly Stradas @28c and decent but basic wheels. I took an easy shakedown ride of about 20 km. The next day I swapped the tires to a new ser of Continental 4000s IIs @28c and took the same ride (similar conditions, same wheels, same tubes). I thought there might be a little difference, (mostly I really liked how the gp 4000s ride) but didn't expect to be 2.5 kph faster on the Continentals at lower average power. Was a real eye opener to how much difference a tire can make.
When comparing the price of the two setups you can't ignore that wheels last much longer than tires, which are consumables. You should estimate the total cost of ownership, either per year of for the life of the wheels. E.g. your wheels may last ten years while you may need new tires every year (just an example).
Good point. I think it would have made the test better if they had used the same latex tubes for both sets of tires. While it's still not something that will last very long, a decent latex tube will help a cheap tire feel closer to the more expensive one but the combined cost of tire/tube will probably be cheaper than the expensive tire by itself.
Appreciate the 3rd run to help bang home that the far less expensive upgrade of tires is not just more bang for your bucks, but more bang period. (And, makes a huge difference in feel, too)
Nice test gents, same conclusion as my latest video. Wheel aerodynamics is trumped ny tyre compound and Crr, by a very large margin (at normal speeds). Buy a fast tyre!
Looking for MTB tyres for my son, was torn as he's new to biking so thought about keeping it cheap, but loving cycling myself,(although roadie/gravel) I'm sure happy he's loving his bike and want to do what I can to encourage him to remain bike happy. Cheap Vs expensive on GMBN is clearly an infomercial aimed at the sponsor. This just answered my question, and probably cost me more money as I'm likely buying my gravel and road bike new tyres too. (Although in the long run save money when it comes to new wheels) lol thanks GCN . X
I bought a Giant TCR Avantage road bike and it had a dinged front wheel rim. Read the reviews and they were all positive apart from the cheap wheels. So I spent £800 on some top end alloy wheels and tyres. It transformed the bike. Even my bike friends could not believe the rider improvement.
Checks out. I use Veloflex Corsa tyres on my cheap Fulcrum 5 LG wheels and don't have any problems keeping up in any kind of terrain *or* riding conditions with other riders on high profile carbon wheels using whatever rubber they came with.
Very similar ride to the route between Gordon's Bay and Rooiels near Cape Town, except that in the right time of the year you can often see whales in False Bay!
“Beautiful coastal road, representative of what many of our viewers will be rising on”. Looks at my typical commute through south east London 🤔
Just like Croydon, innit?
@@Frostbiker 😂
You Brits are very good ! Thank you for all your inf !!
My biggest upgrade was Zipp 303s with conti g5000s tr and XT brake discs. For around 1k€ I dropped almost 1kg from my bike, got more grip, faster rolling tires and most importantly nicer looks 😎
That's a big weight saving! Bet it flies up the hills now
@@gcntech On the first ride I got personal best on local hill 😎
Need to do more blind testing - not sure how to go about it but you guys are smart. Will help remove the preconceived biases.
Great stuff. Always get new tires right away.. stock tires usually kept as a backup only.
so, th big takeaway is: it doesn't matter... which shouldn't stop you from buying new expensive toys, if that's what makes you happy.
It does matter if you ignore any speed differences, a more grippy or puncture resistant tyre is always worth considering for the extra comfort/safety it brings.
Good test, really great results.
Weather is the main deciding factor for me - sunny days I use my DA and bad days the stock wheels (both with good /expensive tires though).
500£ is budget wheels? okey? that is news for me. :P
My wheels cost £400, and they were a lot to me when I bought them. I'd still be reluctant to spend 4 figures on wheels.
Thanks for doing this guys!
It really helps knowing what to invest in.
Third Run was crucial! Now a fourth with the lesser tires and wheels.
I have different tires on my bikes basically because I go for whichever ones are cheapest at purchase time, but I'd say that the more expensive tires do feel faster and better in all ways; grip, smoothness, suppleness, confidence, etc. I have yet to find my go to tire but the ones I favor for now are the Schwalbe Pro One at 28c.
Another great video guys. Love your sunglasses Alex, what are they?
Results of the test, doesn't look worth upgrading except to save a bit of weight. What I find really interesting is the miniscule difference the "aero rims" make. I think you need deeper sections to make a real aero difference so the shallow aero rims you have there are more "marketing aero" than the real thing. It used to be a rule of thumb that you need an aspect ratio of 4 to 1 so for 28mm tyres you need 4*28 = 112mm deep rims minimum (including tyres). The point of expensive wheels is the aero, if you can't save more time than that with more aero wheels then there really is no point.
To prove my point, I made a ring of corex plastic (for the front wheel only) jambed in the spokes about 80 mm wide, with a gap to the rim which all togather with the tyre made about 120mm. It made me 6% faster with everything else (tyres and rims) equal. In 1800 secs would mean 6*18 = 108 seconds.
I suggest that if you want to upgrade your wheels to go faster get really deep rims but be aware cross winds will be a problem for the steering.
One variable that should be controllable is the profile of the wheels, eh? Another is riding the course without knowing upfront what setup you're on. For me, and I suspect for most riders, a set of decent 30-32mm aluminum wheels with premium tires is vastly superior _value_ to expensive wheels and cheap tires. That said, if one wants to do the wheel upgrade and can afford it, one should go for it, but with some degree of care not to wind up wind extremely deep section wheels that are very fast but downright dangerous in a crosswind. And of course, nobody should put cheap tires on high-end wheels unless one has a specific training purpose for doing so.
it always depends on the upgrade case. for example I remember the first important bike I bought in my life a Trek Madone 4.5 that came with some terrible wheels even thought it was an ultra-low mid tier carbon bike... the set weighed 2.5 kilos (around) but most importantly the wheel flex everytime I was off the saddle was so bad it was seriously disturbing me during the ride. I immediately switched to fulcrum zeroes -alu ofc, and it was like riding a different bike period!
The key point here the unwanted flex especially for the heavier riders during a climb. If your wheel doesn't flex -no need to change it no matter the price. Better save money to get a top crankshaft ;)
The best upgrade I've made on my bike is 50mm carbon wheels and the GP5000TL and then the GP5000 STR tires, both set up tubeless. I love the STR's. They roll so smooth on the road.
That's encouraging to read, as I've got a set waiting to be installed!
Sounds great! Were they much of an improvement?
@@gcntech Very much so. Went from 26mm Bontrager aluminum wheels and some meh Bontrager tires.
ollie gets soooo upset when little things don't go well 🤣🤣
DT Swiss P1800 32mm wheels, £214 a pair...(last summer with Vittoria Rubino Pro Tubeless but this summer got Hutchinson Fusion 5 Performance 11 Storm TLR to go on them)
#askgcntech
You always compare the relative price of an expensive tyre versus an expensive wheelset and say the first is the best 'bang for your buck', but is this valid?
Let's say a pair of expensive tyres is € 100 more than cheap ones. And let's say you go through two sets of tyres a year, that's € 200 a year more. Over five years that's a € 1000 difference.
How long does an expensive wheelset, which is € 1000 more expensive, last you? If you don't crash it, I'd say 5 years (limitless, really) is a good number.
(and I haven't even taken into account the possibility of using much more expensive latex inner tubes like in the video which puncture x times a year)
So aren't they quite equal over time?
Ps: love the content!
Jan
The timing of this video for me is uncanny? I am looking to get a second wheelset for my gravel bike to use on road rides but I needed to figure out where to invest my limited budget. This video pretty much answered it.
Glad to help! What are you thinking of upgrading with?
@@gcntech probably the standard wheels like what came with my Checkpoint but with good 30-32mm road oriented tyres
Gold coloured valve caps - best upgrade I’ve done
🤑🤑
Nah Red is best!
@@truthseeker8483 damn. I thought bling was better, but you are right. Red goes faster 😞
@@woofenzo 😁😁😁😁I actually think the caps may help with keeping the air in a little since they protect the valve from dirt and moisture..I don't know why GCN hates them so much 😃
i tried tyre first then wheel during my upgrade. both has own advantage after change. however i think advantage per cost, the tyre is come first.
£500 is still a lot of cash for wheels and tyres 😞Mavic Aksium and Conti GP5000s for £230 👌
Why are you too scared to name names on the less expensive wheels and tyres, but are all over the expensive ones?
Very intersting. For the full amplitude of influence, that would be nice to test cheap wheels and cheap tyres.
Also, to see the effect of the grip, a split time in the top of the climb would be great.
I remember upgrading from nasty Vittoria boggo tyres to Michelin Pro3 tyres (23mm...!). Night and day.
Got premium tyres and latex inner tubes last year, immediately added about 1,5kph to my average speed on the same roads and conditions.
big help on deciding what to buy. ty
Thanks for the video. I recently purchased a set of "nice" wheels and wanted to know the best setup re tires. Nice to know that spending a bit on the tire/pe inner tubes looks to be a good investment.
Michelin always have low rolling resistance and good grip for me.
This is an eye opening experiment ... between Run#1 and Run#3 there's 7 sec diff out of >30min ride, which comes from the diff between "cheap" and "premium" wheeles. After having spent so much $$ on wheels in my life I would not want to believe this though :) , now deciding to spend more money on my diet first than wheels.
I Ride gp5000s on HollowGram wheels. Love the combo.
This just goes to show that for most people the expensive wheels and tyres would be a complete waste of money.
Excellent. Would have like the 4 combinations though :)
I’m glad that you come out an interesting topic..
On a disc brake bike brake-rub does not originate in the wheel, unless the hub is made out of custard...
One of those rare GCN video's where the experiment is good.
They could have estimated that the difference between best tyre and wheel to cheap tyre and wheel is 29 seconds.
Usually they test two systems with different tyres, rendering the experiment results useless (because you couldn't separate out the tyre performance difference).
And flexible wheels don't cause brake rub on dick brake bikes, because the disk rotor is on the wheel hub, which doesn't flex. It will be the forks which flex.
And, as intimated at the end when talking about grip on the road, is…safety. Better tires vs better wheels (if one has to pick one or the other), the premium tires all day add another level of safety.
Ollie / Alex (or was it Bob😂)- please follow up during the tech show to discuss the course profile- How much elevation/ gradient. It’s hard to believe only 7 secs different with the dura ace wheel?
Well done, gents! Very interesting and understandable (unlike some other tech clinics).
I will stick with the $500 carbon 50mm wheels I got from ProX with the Goodyear Eagle Sport tires. There is no reason I would ever consider spending $2000 for a set of wheels.
Maybe a better test with less variables would be to a downhill section, point A to point B and to coast (freewheel) with the different wheel sets.
What's the average speed of the tests? Rolling resistance increases linearly with speed and system mass (so it counts at any speed), Aerodynamic drag increases with the square of speed, so it is much more significant at higher speeds. Power ensures you put same amount of energy in the system but does not explain alone.
VERY USEFUL!
Many thanks.
It's not a second - we're seven seconds away 🎶
Do this test in the UK on some local roads and see how this works out as I'm sure the surface in the video is a lot better than the local roads in the UK.
You tryin to tell me high end wheels only save you 14 seconds per hour of riding? Man the entire bike upgrade market is a huge scam.
I hope it is the tyres, I am looking at tubular rims but rare to find aluminium ones, depends when you buy tyres, on a bike I had £30 tyres but often they are sold as £75
There was another variable not accounted for. Butyl tubes in expensive tyres. How much of that 15 seconds' gain is eroded by cheap tubes?
Cheap tyres are uncomfortable and don't grip. High profile wheels for time trials. Light wheels for professional racers who attack and accelerate on climbs . Light wheels feel more lively but physics tells us heavier wheels have more inertia when you stop pedalling hard and help you maintain speed. Keep the entry level wheels and spend money on tyres and quality clothing.
Another plus for good tyres is better puncture protection.