To separate the alternator from the motor bracket, first unscrew the upper (SW16) screw approx. 5 mm, then unscrew the lower long (SW 16) screw 5 mm. Then, using the short 1/2" extension and a hammer, tap the head of the lower screw until the alternator dangles loosely in its holder. Rust remover and hot air on the rear bracket connection will help the threaded bush to slip out of the engine mount.
The bottom one is difficult as it has the captive nut that pulls in as the bolt is tightened, this takes up the space between the alternator bracket and the block. They do corrode which makes them stick solid. My advice would be to get some heat on it with a blowtorch. That should help 👍🏻
I'm now at the situation that I need to do an altenator change on my e90. The voltage is 12.2v when the engine is not running. It does not change when the engine is running, still remains at 12.2 volts. This is not correct. I've noticed that if I turn on the lights the voltage goes up to 14.6 volts so the alternator kicks in.. I suspect that the voltage regulator is faulty. There is also a chirping noise from the belt at the alternator. This noise is intermittent and I have already changed the belt and tensioner. I have just bought this car and had to change the battery as it was the original (12 yrs old) and was struggling to start the engine. My car is a 2010 e90 and has the N47t engine so unfortunately the alternator is not as easy as your one to replace. Part of the intake manifold needs to be removed to make room. Bmw made a number of revisions to the layout of the engine in the face lifted n47t version. I'll get there in the end,,,
I have got the same problem.. i changed the battery and coded. engine when it is off is 12.8v when is running stays 12.8v but when I turned it on my headlights goes 14.6-7v... did u managed to get it sorted? What was the issue?
Thanks for the video! I have one question though. What if you're replacing the one you have with another used one? Do you have to do anything with that nut you're talking about at 9:29? Do you have to somehow put it back as it would be on a brand new one? If so, how?
hi kev , i have the same n47 and i change the alternator too , but the one i put is getting very hot like you can t put your hand over . yours is getting that hot too ? i don t know if this is normal or ther s a problem . can you check for me please ? i need help 🙏 thank you ✌
@@KevsShed thank you kev , i was worried seeing it getting that hot i was really scared to go on long distances . first i put a non brand alternator ,was working fine getting the right voltage ,but it was getting very hot . i changed with a valeo one and the same , working fine but but getting very hot . i mean now, it is directly close to the block of the engine who is getting really hot, right , and part of that heat is transmited to the alternator , i mean is metal on metal . thank you very much kev you help me a lot . i wanted to be sure . excuse my english i am from spain . ✌🍻
Excellent video, the bit about the captive nut was very helpful
No way it’s this easy to change alternator. Gonna try this on my X1 E84. Thanks a lot man.
Nice and easy to get too, But yes been caught out by the belt rooting before 😬...top job Sir.
To separate the alternator from the motor bracket, first unscrew the upper (SW16) screw approx. 5 mm, then unscrew the lower long (SW 16) screw 5 mm. Then, using the short 1/2" extension and a hammer, tap the head of the lower screw until the alternator dangles loosely in its holder. Rust remover and hot air on the rear bracket connection will help the threaded bush to slip out of the engine mount.
Cheers mate, I've just got a 123d and these videos are great, I've now got some ideas for doing some preventative maintenance, subbed 👍
The one good thing about the N47 engine is the access to the alternator. Handy every 10 years or so. Nice vid though.
Thank you for your video, it was really helpful and easy to follow. Because of you, I was able to fix it on my own :)
Absolute Legend man.Thank You!
very good video, thanks
Hi Kev, thanks for video. Bottom bracket is stuck, how did you go around getting out original alternator?
The bottom one is difficult as it has the captive nut that pulls in as the bolt is tightened, this takes up the space between the alternator bracket and the block. They do corrode which makes them stick solid. My advice would be to get some heat on it with a blowtorch. That should help 👍🏻
Thank you.
I'm now at the situation that I need to do an altenator change on my e90. The voltage is 12.2v when the engine is not running. It does not change when the engine is running, still remains at 12.2 volts. This is not correct. I've noticed that if I turn on the lights the voltage goes up to 14.6 volts so the alternator kicks in.. I suspect that the voltage regulator is faulty. There is also a chirping noise from the belt at the alternator. This noise is intermittent and I have already changed the belt and tensioner.
I have just bought this car and had to change the battery as it was the original (12 yrs old) and was struggling to start the engine. My car is a 2010 e90 and has the N47t engine so unfortunately the alternator is not as easy as your one to replace. Part of the intake manifold needs to be removed to make room. Bmw made a number of revisions to the layout of the engine in the face lifted n47t version.
I'll get there in the end,,,
I have got the same problem.. i changed the battery and coded. engine when it is off is 12.8v when is running stays 12.8v but when I turned it on my headlights goes 14.6-7v... did u managed to get it sorted? What was the issue?
Thanks for the video! I have one question though. What if you're replacing the one you have with another used one? Do you have to do anything with that nut you're talking about at 9:29? Do you have to somehow put it back as it would be on a brand new one? If so, how?
You can push it back with a set of good grips, takes a little effort that’s all. It’s really difficult to fit unless you do that to be fair.
hi kev , i have the same n47 and i change the alternator too , but the one i put is getting very hot like you can t put your hand over . yours is getting that hot too ? i don t know if this is normal or ther s a problem . can you check for me please ? i need help 🙏 thank you ✌
They do get very hot during normal operation mate. Provided it is outputting the correct voltage, it is nothing to be concerned about! 👍🏻
@@KevsShed thank you kev , i was worried seeing it getting that hot i was really scared to go on long distances . first i put a non brand alternator ,was working fine getting the right voltage ,but it was getting very hot . i changed with a valeo one and the same , working fine but but getting very hot . i mean now, it is directly close to the block of the engine who is getting really hot, right , and part of that heat is transmited to the alternator , i mean is metal on metal . thank you very much kev you help me a lot . i wanted to be sure . excuse my english i am from spain . ✌🍻